^ 


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^^^J^^U^c^^ 


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General  U,  S,  Grant's 


TOUR 


Around  the  World 


JiMIiKA(  ING    HIS 


Speeches,  Receptions,  and  Description 
OF  HIS  Travels. 


W  1  T  H     A 


BIOGRAPHICAL    SKETCH     OF    HIS    LIFE 


LDITEn    HV 


L.    T.    REM  LAP. 


HARTFORD,  CONN.: 
JAMES    BETTS    &    CO 

1879. 


COPYRIGHTED. 
J.  FAIRBANKS  &  CO. 

1879. 


PRINTED    HV 

CCSHING,  THOMAS  <Sr  CO. 

CHICAGO. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

LIFE  OF  GENERAL  U.  S.  GRANT. 

His  Birth — His  Father — Early  Education  at  West  Point — In  Mex- 
ico— Garrison  Life — Marriage — A.  Farmer — April  12,  1861 — A.  Colo- 
nel— Battle  of  Belmont — Forts  Henry  and  Donaldson — Shiloh — At  Vicks- 
burg — With  the  Army  of  the  Potomac — Surrender  of  Lee — Farewell 
Address — Disbandment  of  the  Army — Secretary  of  War  ad  interim — 
Nomination  for  President — Inaugui-al — A  Second  Term — His  achieve- 
ments,        -  ..--.--..  -9 

CHAPTER  II. 

OFF  FOR  EUROPE. 

Departure  from  Philadelphia — Rousing  Demonstration — On  the 
Ocean — Arrival  atQueenstown — Liverpool — Grand  Reception — A  Round 
of  Pleasure — At  the  Docks — Mayor's  Reception  and  Ball,         .  17 

CHAPTER  in. 

GENERAL    GRANT  IN  LONDON. 

His  Arrival — Prince  of  Wales — Grand  Banquet — Duke  of  Welling- 
ton— Waterloo  Chamber — At  Westminster  Abbey — Reception  at  the 
American  Legation — Grand  Ball — Buckingham  Palace — Freedom  of  the 
City  of  London — Magnificent  Reception — Its  Significance — Gold  Casket 
— Distinguished  Guests — Marquis  of  Lome,         -        -        -        -        27 

CHAPTER  IV. 

GRANT  IN  ENGLAND. 

A  Letter  to  D.  W.  Childs— Dining  with  the  Prince  of  Wales— At 
Minister  Pierrepont's— Royal  Opera  House— Banquet  by  Trinity  House — 
Speech  by  the  Prince  of  Wales — Address  by  Earl  Carnarvon — General 


4  CONTENTS. 

Grant's  Reply — Reception  by  Queen  Victoria — State  Dinner — Ladies' 
Toilets — State  Concert — Grand  Banquet  Tendered  by  the  City  of  Liver- 
pool— Addresses — General  Badeau — United  Service  Club — American 
Legation, .....43 

'  CHAPTER  V. 

ON  THE   CONTINENT. 

At  Brussels  —  Reception  and  Dinner  by  King  Leopold  —  At  Co- 
logne—  Visiting  Cliurches  and  the  Cathedral — At  Frankfort  —  Great 
Reception  —  A  Grand  Ball  —  At  Hamburg  —  At  Lucerne  —  Berne  — 
Geneva  —  Laying  a  Corner  Stone  —  At  Pallanza — At  Copenhagen  — 
Ulysses  —  A  Happy  Speech,        ...-.-.56 

CHAPTER  VL 

RETURN  TO  GREAT  BRITAIN. 

Presented  with  the  Freedom  of  Edinburgh  —  Enthusiastic  Recep- 
tion—  Lord  Provost's  Speech  —  Grant's  Reply  —  Tay  Bridge  —  Its  De- 
scription—  City  of  Wick  —  At  Glasgow  —  The  Finest  and  Most  Enthu- 
Biastic  Reception  —  Speech  of  Mr.  Anderson  —  Grant's  Long  Speech  — 
Remarkable  Reception  at  Newcastle — At  Northumberland  —  Gateshead 

—  At  SheflBeld  —  At  Birmingham  —  Speeches,  .         -         -         61 

CHAPTER  VIL 

GENERAL  GRANT  IN  PARIS. 

Adieu  to  England  —  Bologne  —  At  Paris  —  Enthusiastic  Reception 

—  Palace  d'  Elysee  —  Grand  Banquet  by  Resident  Americans  —  Recep- 
ion  by  Minister  Noyes  —  Menu  —  Brilliant  Assemblage  —  Banquet  at 
Marshal  McMahon's  —  Address  —  Grant's  Reply  —  A  Comparison  — 
Mrs.  ]Mackay's  Reception  —  Extravagance  of  Display  —  Dinner  at  Mrs. 
Sickles' —  At  Mr.  Harjes,        -         - 74 

CHAPTER  Vin. 

THROUGH  FRANCE — ITALY. 

At  Lyons  —  Marseilles  —  Genoa  —  Reception  on  Board  the  Van- 
dalia  —  At  Naples  —  Mt.  Vesuvius  —  "  House  of  Refuge  "  —  Ruins  of 
Pompeii  —  Special  Excavation  —  Interesting  Relics  —  Royal  Palace  —  At 


CONTENTS. 


Palermo  —  Christmas  Dinner  —  Menu  —  IIow  He  Traveled  —  Land  of 
Many  Civilizations  —  Brigandage  —  At  Malta — Duke  of  Edinburgh  — 
Palace  San  Antonio  —  Adieu,         .        .        -        -         .         -        -       89 


CHAPTER  IX. 

IN    EGYPT   AND  THE  LOTUS  LAND. 

A  Severe  Storm  —  At  Alexandria  —  Oriental  Etiquette  —  The  Pacha 

—  Reception  —  Brilliant  Entertainment  at  Vice-Consul  Salvage  —  Henry 
]\I.  Stanley  —  The  Khedive  calls  on  General  Grant — A  Host's  Thoughtful- 
ness  —  At  Siout  —  The  Donkey  Ride  —  Inspecting  the  Town  —  Speech 
of  the  Pacha's  Son —  At  Girgel  to  Ruined  City  of  Abydos  —  God  Osiris 

—  Excavations  —  At  Thebes  —  City  of  a  Hundred  Gates  —  Its  Magnifi- 
cent Ruins  —  The  Great  Temple  of  Karnak  —  At  Keneh  —  At  Assowan 

—  Philce  —  The  First  Cataract — The  Return  —  At  Memphis  —  Sacred 
Bulls  at  Kaser-el-Nousa,        -.---..-96 

CHAPTER  X. 

TURKEY  AND  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

At  JaflFa  —  Ruins  of  Gezer — David  and  Goliah  —  At  Jerusalem — 
Bishops  and  Patriarchs  —  Stroll  on  the  Via  Dolorosa  —  Ruins  and  Relics 

—  Dives  —  Calvary  —  Brook  Kedron  —  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat  —  Mount 
of  Olives  —  Bethany  —  At  Damascus — At  Athens  —  Grand  Entertain- 
ment by  the  King  at  Naples  —  At  Rome  —  His  Clerical  Visitor — At 
Turin  —  Return  to  the  French  Capital  —  At  the  Exposition  —  A  Game  of 
Polo  —  Ball  at  Mr.  Healy's  —  At  the  Hague  —  Great  Demonstration  at 
Rotterdam  —  At  Amsterdam  —  Enthusiastic  Welcome  —  The  Dutch  Ex- 
cited,        .------•---         110 

CHAPTER  XI. 

GRANT   IN  GERMANY,  NORWAY,  SWEDEN,  RUSSIA  AND  AUSTRIA. 

General  Grant  at  Berlin  —  An  Evening  Stroll —  Prince  Bismarck  — 
Great  Peace  Congress  —  Attempt  to  Assassinate  the  Emperor  —  Bismarck 
Calls  on  Mrs.  Grant  —  Reception  at  Minister  Taylor' s  —  Crown  Prince  — 
Military  Manoeuvers  —  Dining  with  Bismarck  —  Bottle  of  Schnapps  — 
At  Gothenburg  —  Immense  Crowd  —  At  Christiana — King  Oscar  II. — 
Turning  out  en  masse  at  Stockholm  —  Grand  Banquet  —  At  St.  Peters- 


6  CONTENTS. 

buTgh  —  Prince  Gortschakoff — 'With  the  Czar  —  At  the  Versailles  of  St. 
Petersburgh  —  Grand  Duke  Alexis  —  At  Moscow  —  At  Warsaw  —  Vi- 
enna—  Grand  Reception  —  At  Zurich,         .         .         -         .         119 

CHAPTER  XII. 

GENERAL  GRANT  IX  SPAIN  AND  PORTUGAL. 

Again  at  Paris  —  Reception  by  Minister  Noyes — In  Spain  —  Span- 
ish Life  and  Character  —  Alfonso  XII. —  San  Sebastian  —  Grand  Annual 
Military  Review  at  Victoria — Palace  of  Ayuntamiento — At  Madrid  —  At- 
tempt on  Alfonzo's  Life  —  The  Shot  Seen  by  General  Grant  —  Escape  — 
Congratulations  —  At  Lisbon  —  Dining  with  King  Luis  —  A  Cordial  Re- 
ception —  At  Seville  —  Duke  de  Montpensier  —  At  Cadiz  —  Enthusias- 
tic Reception  —  At  Gibraltar  —  Old  Friends  —  Lord  Napier  —  Grand 
Review  —  At  Pau  —  Return  to  Paris,        .        -        -        -        .         135 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

GENERAL    GRANT  IN  IRELAND. 

Irish  Interest — A  Citizen  of  Dublin — Grand  Ovation  —  Long 
Speech  from  General  Grant — Good  Times  Coming — Trinity  College  — 
Insultfrom  Cork  —  Grant's  Friendship  Toward  Catholics  —  Unparalleled 
Reception  at  Derry  —  Denouncing  the  Insult  of  Corkonians  —  Curiosi- 
ties of  Ulster  —  Old  Soldiers  —  At  Belfast — Imposing  and  Extraordi- 
nary Reception —  Stopping  the  Linen  Mills  —  At  the  Ship  Yards  —  At 
Kingston — The  Irish  Welcome  Compared  toothers,         -         -         146 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

GENERAL    GRANT     IN      INDIA. 

Again  in  London  —  Paris  —  Marseilles  —  Delightful  Trip  Through 
the  Mediteranean  —  Description  of  Trip  —  At  Alexandria  —  A  Railroad 
Ride  in  Egypt  —  At  Suez  —  On  the  Red  Sea  —  At  Aden  —  Bombay  — 
Enthusiastic  Reception  —  Holy  Place  of  the  Hindoos  — A  Parsee  Mer- 
chant —  The  Byculla  Club  —  Flagship  Eurydius  —  Elephanta  Caves  — 
Reception  at  the  Government  House  —  Singular  Custom  —  Caste  —  Hat- 
red of  Races  —  A  Farewell — At  Tatulpur  —  At  Allahabad  —  Agra  — 
The  Maharajah  of  Jeypore  —  At  Amber  —  A  Native  City  Under  Native 
Rule  —  Gas  in  India  —  Elephant  Ride  —  The  Temple  —  A  Kid  Sacrificed 
at  the  Palace  —  Nautch  Dancing  Girls  —  Playing  Billiards  —  A  Royal 
Photograph,         •-,.--..-.       161 


CONTENTS.  y 

CHAPTER  XV. 

STILL   IN    INDIA. 

At  Burtpoor  —  A  Princely  Reception  —  Tuttehpoor  Sikva  —  Akbar  — 
Interesting  Ruins  —  At  Benares  —  Sacred  City  —  At  the  Ganges  ''  Holy 
Kasi "  — A  City  of  Priests  —  Fourteen  Hundred  and  Fifty  Temples  —  A 
Sacred  Ruler  —  Burning  the  Body  —  At  Delhi  —  Military  Pieception  — 
Its  Splendor  —  The  Palace  of  the  Grand  Mogul  —  The  Kutah  Tower  — 
At  Calcutta  —  Lord  Lytton's  Speech  —  Continuous  Round  of  Enjoyment 
—  At  Rangoon,  Burmah  —  The  Philadelphia  of  Burmah — Commercial 
Advantages  —  Opening  for  American  Merchants,  -  -  186 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

GENERAL   GRANT   IN   SIAM. 

At  Singapore  —  Interesting  Letter  from  the  King  of  Siam  —  Bang- 
kok —  Another  Letter  —  Embarking  —  Reception  at  the  King' s  Pal- 
ace —  The  ex-Regent  —  An  Aged  Statesman  —  Mr.  Borie  and  the 
King  —  Royal  Proclamation  —  A  Second  King —  His  Income  —  A  Polit- 
ical Influence  —  First  King  of  Siam  —  Grand  Palace  — Elegant  Furnish- 
ing —  An  Audience  with  the  King  —  The  King  Returns  the  Visit  —  An 
Interesting  Conversation  —  Correspondence  Promised  —  A  State  Dinner 
—  Who  Were  There  —  The  Surroundings  —  Ki.ng's  Speech  —  General 
Grant's  Reply  — A  Delightful  Week, 200y 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

GENERAL  GRANT  IN  CHINA. 

At  Saigon  —  The  Government  House  —  Hong  Kong  •— ;■  At  Canton  — 
Its  Situation  —  The  Viceroy  —  Special  Honors  —  Bulletin  —  Chairs  of 
Rank  —  Two  Hundred  Thousand  People  —  Members  of  Court  —  The  En- 
tertainment —  Dinner  at  Consul-General  Lincoln's  —  Greatest  Demon- 
stration of  Trip  —  At  Macao  —  The  Grotto  of  Camoens  —  Reception  at 
Hong  Kong  —  An  Address  —  General  Grant's  Reply  —  Parting  Salutes 

—  At  Swatow — Chinese  Governor  —  Amoy  —  A  Stroll  Through  the 
Town  —  Letters  from  the  King  of  Siam  and  King  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands  and  the  Viceroy  of  Canton  —  General  Grant's  Replies  —  At 
Shanghai  —  Unexpected  Greetings —  An  Address  —  Reply  —  At  Tientsin 

—  The  Viceroy  —  Extraordinary  Conversation  at  Pekin  —  Reception  by 


5  CONTEXTS. 

the  Prince  Imperial  —  Confidential  Proposition  —Flattering  Reception 

—  Unusual  Demonstration  by  the  Prince  —  Return  to  Tientsin  —  The 
Viceroy's  Friendly  Visits  —  Pleasure  of  General  Grant — Farewell  to 
China,        -        - 220 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

GENERAL   GRAXT    IN    JAPAN. 

At  Nagasaki  —  Banqueted  by  Citizens  —  The  Herald's  Graphic  De- 
scription —  Address  of  Mei'chants  —  Fish  and  Soup  —  Arrival  at  Tokio 

—  Palace  of  Enriokwan  —  Its  Gardens  —  The  Bazaars  —  A  Native  Dance 

—  Reception  at  the  College  of  Engineering  —  At  Yokohama  —  Grand 
Reception  —  Address  of  Welcome  —  Feast  of  Lanterns — A  Brilliant 
Spectacle  —  Reception  by  the  Emperor — His  Palace  —  Japanese  Eti- 
quette —  Address  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  —  In  the  Mountains  — 
At  the  Old  Capital — Interesting  idea  tete  with  the  Emperor  —  Fare- 
well to  Japan  —  Sailing  of  the  Tokio,         .....        256 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

GENERAL  GRAXT's  RETURN. 

Embarking  From  Tokio — Date  of  Arrival  —  Review  of  Tour  — 
Preparation  for  His  Reception  —  The  Great  Excursion  —  Not  Flattering 
to  the  American  People  —  Out  of  the  Presidential  Race  — Admiral  Am- 
men  — Hon.  E.  B.  Washburn  —  Murat  Halstead  —  His  Positive  Accept- 
ance of  the  Presidency  of  the  Nicaragua  Ship  Canal  Company  —  Letter 
to  Admiral  Ammen  —  Reception  Progi'amme  at  San  Francisco  —  On  the 
Watch  —  Magnificent  Ovation  Expected  —  The  "Sand  Lot"  Braggart 

—  Threat  to  Hang  Grant  in  Effigy — Intense  Excitement  —  Probable 
Reeult, 312 

CHAPTER  XX. 

ARRIVAL    AT    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

Preparation  for  His  Reception — Arrival — Immense  Crowds — Pro- 
cession— Addresses — California  Theatre — ^Municipal  Reception — At  Pro- 
duce Exchange — At  Oakland — Veterans'  Reception — At  San  Jose — 
Santa  Clara — In  the  Yosemite — At  Portland,  Oregon — At  Salem — Re- 
turn to  San  Francisco — Munificent  Reception  at  Senator  Sharon's— At 
S.icramento — In  Nevada — Receptions  En  Route  to  Galena — At  Chicago 

—  Unparalleled  Entliusiastn — Return  to  Galena — Finale, 


GENERAL  GRANT'S  TOUR  AKOUXD  THE  WORLD. 


CHAPTER  I. 


LIFE    OF   ULYSSES    S.    GRANT. 

Ulysses  Simpson  Grant  was  born  April  23,  1822, 
at  Point  Pleasant,  Clermont  county,  Ohio,  a  small  town 
on  the  Ohio  river,  twenty-five  miles  above  Cincinnati. 
The  Grants  are  of  Scotch  descent,  and  the  motto  of  their 
clan  in  Aberdeenshire  was,  "  Stand  fast,  stand  firm,  stand 
sure."  Grant  inherits  from  many  of  his  ancestors  a  love 
for  freedom  and  a  determination  to  fight  for  its  cause.  In 
1799,  his  grandfither,  a  Pennsylvania  farmer,  joined  the 
great  tide  of  emigration  moving  to  the  Northwest  Terri- 
tory. 

His  great-grandfather.  Captain  Noah  Grant,  of  Wind- 
sor, Connecticut,  and  his  brother.  Lieutenant  Solomon 
Grant,  were  soldiers  in  the  old  French  war,  and  were  both 
killed  in  battle  in  1756. 

His  grandfather,  also  Noah  Grant,  of  Windsor,  hurried 
from  his  fields  at  the  first  conflict  of  the  Revolution,  and 
appeared  as  a  lieutenant  on  Lexington  Common  on  the 
morning  of  the  memorable  19th  of  iVpril,  when  the  em- 
battled farmers  "  fired  the  shot  heard  round  the  world." 

His  father,  Jesse  R.  Grant,  was  born  in  Westmoreland 
county.  Pa.,  in  1794.  Was  apprenticed  to  the  tanner's 
trade  at  the  early  age  of  eleven  years.  Removed  to  May- 
ville,  Kentucky,  thence  to  Point  Pleasant,  Ohio,  where  he 
followed  the  business  of  a  tanner.  In  1 869  he  was  appointed 
postmaster  at  Covington,  Kentucky,  by  President  Grant, 
and  died  in  1874. 


lO  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

Like  other  great  men,  Grant  had  an  excellent  mother 
— a  pious  woman,  cheerful,  unambitious  of  worldly  dis- 
pla}'',  watchful  of  her  children,  and  "looking  well  to  the 
ways  of  her  household."  Her  husband  pays  her  the  high- 
est tribute  which  can  be  paid  to  any  wife  and  mother  in 
saying,  "  Her  steadiness,  firmness  and  strength  of  character 
have  been  the  stay  of  the  family  through  life." 

Love  of  their  children  has  ever  been  a  marked  trait 
in  the  Grant  family. 

He  was  originally  christened  Hiram  Ulysses;  his  grand- 
father giving  the  name  of  Hiram ;  his  grandmother,  who 
was  a  great  student  of  history,  giving  the  name  of  Ulysses, 
whose  character  had  strongly  attracted  her  admiration. 
The  member  of  congress  who  appointed  Grant  to  his  ca- 
detship  at  West  Point  when  a  boy  of  seventeen,  by  acci- 
dent changed  his  name,  in  filling  his  appointment,  to  U.  S. 
Grant.  Grant  repeatedly  endeavored  to  have  the  mistake 
corrected  at  West  Point,  and  at  the  war  department  at 
Washington;  but  this  was  one  of  the  few  things  in  which 
he  failed;  his  applications  were  never  complied  with.  As 
if  fate  foresaw  the  patriotic  duty,  the  filial  love,  the  tran- 
scendant  services  he  was  one  day  to  render  his  country,. 
the  government  seemed  to  insist,  when  adopting  him 
among  her  military  children,  on  renaming  him,  and  giving 
to  him  her  own  initials,  "U.  S.,"  which  he  has  ever  since 
borne. 

Grant  was  neither  a  precocious  nor  a  stupid  child;  he 
was  a  well-behaved,  dutiful  boy.  He  attended  the  public 
school  in  the  village;  he  learned  well,  but  was  no  prodigy. 

He  never  liked  his  father's  business  of  tanning.  It  was 
disagreeable ;  and  he  early  determined  not  to  follow  it.  He 
wanted  an  education.  He  said  he  would  be  a  farmer,  or 
trade  down  the  river;  but  a  tanner  he  would  not  be. 

His  father,  with  limited  means,  did  not  feel  that,  in  jus- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  II 

tice  to  himself  and  his  other  children,  he  could  afford  the 
money  to  send  him  to  college. 

He  applied,  with  the  boy's  assent,  for  a  vacant  cadet- 
ship  at  West  Point.  The  appointment  was  made  by  Hon» 
T.  L.  Hamer,  the  member  of  congress  from  the  district. 

It  is  remarkable  that,  without  any  preparatory  stiuly, 
he  passed  the  rigid  examination  which  all  cadets  are 
obliged  to  undergo. 

But  Grant  received  at  West  Point  the  best  education  a 
man  can  receive,  namely,  that  which  fits  him  for  his  work 
in  life.  He  was  subjected  to  a  course  of  physical  training 
which  invigorated  his  body.  He  was  taught  fencing, 
drawing,  riding,  dancing;  he  was  taught  science,  mathe- 
matics, the  modern  languages,  constitutional  and  interna- 
tional law,  and  engineering. 

Young  Grant  appreciated  and  improved  all  the  oppor- 
tunities which  were  offered  to  him.  He  gave  those  3-ears 
diligently  to  self-improvement  in  the  widest  sense.  He 
graduated  with  a  good  rank  in  his  class;  and,  what  was 
better,  without  vices  which  enfeebled  his  body,  or  mental 
habits  which  depraved  his  mind. 

In  Julyi  1843,  he  entered  the  United  States  army  as  a 
brevet  second  lieutenant  in  the  fourth  infantry.  Ordered 
to  the  frontier  of  Missouri  among  the  Indians,  he  remained 
nearly  two  years,  when,  in  1845,  he  was  ordered  to  Corpus 
Christi,  Texas,  where  United  States  troops  were  gathering 
under  command  of  General  Taylor.  From  the  first  attack 
on  Fort  Brown,  opposite  Ivlatamoras,  Grant  was  in  every 
battle  in  the  Mexican  war  except  Buena  Vista — fourteen 
in  all — and  conducted  himself  with  distinguished  bravery, 
which  elicited  special  mention  from  his  superiors  in  com- 
mand. In  1847  he  was  appointed  brevet  captain,  and  in 
1853  to  a  full  captaincy. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  Captain  Grant  returned  to  the 
United  States,  and  was  subsequently  stationed  on  the  Cana- 


12  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

dian  frontier,  in  California  and  in  Oregon.  But  garrison 
life,  in  that  lonely  region,  offered  no  opportunities  of  use- 
fulness, and  he  determined  to  resign  his  commission,  which 
he  did  in  July,  1S54.  He  moved  to  St.  Louis,  and  there 
married  Miss  Julia  Dent,  daughter  of  a  merchant  of  that 
city.  Taking  a  small  farm  in  the  suburbs  of  St.  Louis,  he 
labored  in  the  life  of  a  farmer.  In  1859  he  moved  to  Ga- 
lena, Illinois,  entered  in  business,  and  was  residing  there  on 
the  1 2th  of  April,  1861.  The  "first  shot"  at  Fort  Sumter 
moved  Grant  to  the  utmost  depths  of  his  being.  He  said 
to  a  friend :  "  The  government  has  educated  me  for  the 
army.  What  I  am,  I  owe  to  my  country.  I  have  served 
her  through  one  war,  and,  live  or  die,  will  serve  her 
through  this."  Recruiting  a  company  at  Galena,  he  was 
at  once  made  adjutant-general  of  the  State;  on  the  15th  of 
June,  1S61,  was  commissioned  colonel  of  the  Twenty-first 
Illinois  Volunteers,  stationed  at  Mexico,  Missouri;  made 
brigadier-general  May  17,  1861,  and  on  ist  September  or- 
dered to  Cairo,  and  at  once  took  possession  of  Paducah, 
Kentucky;  7th  of  November,  fighting  the  battle  of  Bel- 
mont, with  2,850  men,  against  7,000  Confederates— Fed- 
eral loss,  400;  Rebel,  875.  On  the  2d  of  February  he, 
with  the  aid  of  the  navy,  under  Commodore  Foote,  cap- 
tured Fort  Henry,  on  the  Tennessee  river.  On  February 
15th,  captured  Fort  Donaldson,  on  the  Cumberland  river, 
the  key  to  Nashville,  Tennessee,  with  65  guns,  17,600 
small  arms,  nearly  15,000  soldiers,  with  horses,  mules  and 
army  supplies;  his  loss  was  about  2,000  men.  Grant  was 
immediately  nominated  and  confirmed  as  a  major-general. 
By  this  victory  the  Cumberland  and  Tennessee  rivers  were 
opened,  Nashville  fell,  Columbus  was  abandoned,  Bowl- 
ing Green  evacuated,  and  the  States  of  Kentucky  and 
Tennessee  were  rescued  from  the  Rebel  armies. 

The   battles    of  Shiloh  and  Pittsburgh  Landing  were 
fought  April  6  and  7,  1863,  resulting  in  a  victory  to  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  IJ 

Federal  arms,  and  was  one  of  the  most  hotly  contested 
fields  of  the  war.  General  Grant  has  said,  since  the  close 
of  the  war,  that  it  was,  with  one  exception — that  of  the 
Wilderness — the  most  terrific  which  he  saw  in  the  war. 
On  the  3d  of  June  Shiloh  was  evacuated,  and  in  a  few 
days  New  Orleans  was  captured  and  Memphis  fell.  April 
30,  1S63,  captured  Port  Gibson  and  Grand  Gulf;  May  14 
he  captured  Jackson,  the  capital  of  Mississippi;  fought  the 
battle  of  Champion  Hills,  defeating  the  Confederate  Gen- 
eral Pemberton,  losing  2,457  ^^^^i^j  the  Rebel  loss  was  over 
4,000  killed  and  wounded  and  3,000  prisoners;  invested 
Vicksburg  May  19,  receiving  its  surrender  July  4,  1863. 
The  results  of  the  summer  campaign  in  the  investment  and 
capture  of  Vicksburg  were  the  defeat  of  the  enemy  in  five 
battles,  the  occupation  of  Jackson,  a  loss  to  the  enemy  of 
56,000  prisoners,  with  10,000  killed  and  wounded,  arms  and 
munitions  of  war  for  60,000  men,  and  nearly  200  cannon. 
Grant  had  lost  943  killed,  7,095  wounded  and  537  missing, 
and  had  made  the  largest  capture  ever  made  in  war.  On 
November  25  he  carried  the  heights  of  Missionary  Ridge, 
Ringold  a  few  days  after,  and  relieved  the  siege  of  Knox- 
ville,  thus  virtually  closing  the  war  in  the  southwest.  On 
the  3d  of  March,  1864,  he  was  confirmed  as  lieutenant-gen- 
eral and  ordered  to  Washington,  and  on  May  5,  6  and  7 
fought  the  bloody  battles  of  the  Wilderness,  and  June  1  that 
of  Cold  Harbor.  The  whole  series  of  brilliant  military 
operations,  by  which  General  Grant  had  carried  an  army  of 
100,000  men,  in  forty-three  days,  from  the  Rapidan  to  the 
James,  without  the  loss  of  a  wagon,  compelling  his  able  an- 
tagonist to  race  at  his  side  for  the  safety  of  the  capital,  will 
never  cease  to  be  the  study  and  admiration  of  the  military 
student. 

On  the  15th  of  June  he  invested  Petersburg,  Virginia, 
with  an  army  of  over  100,000  men,  his  lines  embracing  a 
circuit  of  thirty  miles.     During  the  siege  of  Petersburg  oc- 


«4  GENERAL    IT.    S.    GRANT'S 

curred  the  victorious  battles  of  the  Shenandoah  under 
General  Philip  Sheridan,  and  the  great  march  of  General 
Sherman  "  to  the  sea,"  when  about  65,000  men  swept  over 
the  country  in  a  track  fifty  miles  wide.  Accompanying 
this  army  were  3,500  wagons  and  35,000  horses;  1,328  pris- 
oners and  167  guns  were  taken;  the  Federal  loss  in  killed 
63,  and  245  wounded;  5,000  horses  and  4,000  mules 
appropriated,  20,000  bales  of  cotton  burned  and  25,000 
captured  at  Savannah;  13,000  head  of  cattle,  10,000,000 
pounds  of  corn,  1,217,527  rations  of  meat,  919,000  of  bread, 
483,000  of  coffee,  581,534  of  sugar,  1,145,500  of  soap, 
137,000  of  salt,  and  10,000,000  of  fodder  were  taken.  By 
this  severing  of  the  Confederac}',  Charleston  was  evacuated, 
Columbia,  the  capital  of  South  Carolina,  captured,  and  April 
13  the  army  had  occupied  Raleigh,  North  Carolina.  April 
2,  Grant  captured  Petersburg,  after  three  days  of  hard  fight- 
ing; the  capture  of  Richmond  the  following  day,  and  the 
surrender  of  General  Lee  and  the  Army  of  Virginia  at 
Appomatox  Court  House  April  9,  1865,  followed  by  the 
surrender  of  General  Joseph  E.Johnston  to  General  Sher- 
man on  the  26th,  and  on  the  4th  of  May  of  General  Taylor, 
with  all  the  Confederate  forces  east  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
the  surrender  of  General  Kirby  Smith,  with  all  of  his  com- 
mand west  of  the  Mississippi,  on  May  26th.  The  war 
w^as  thus  terminated  with  the  surrender  of  all  the  Con- 
federate Government,  its  President,  Jefferson  Davis,  having 
been  captured  on  the  nth  of  May,  at  Irwinsville,  Georgia. 
The  number  of  Rebel  soldiers  who  surrendered  was  174,223. 
The  number  of  prisoners  was  98,802.  The  Union  armies 
under  command  of  General  Grant  numbered  1,000,516 
soldiers.  Their  commander  might  ■well  be  proud  of  the 
great  services  which  with  him  they  had  performed  for  the 
country.     He  issued  the  following  farewell  address: 

"Soldiers  of  thb  Armies  of  the  U.vitkd  States  :  By  your  patriotic  de- 
^rotion  to  your  country  in  the  hour  of  danirer  and  alarm,  your  mao;nificent  fight- 
ing, bravery  and  endur:ince,  you  have  maintained  the  supreraiicy  of  the  Union  and 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  15 

'ttie  Constitution,  overthrown  all  armed  opposition  to  the  enforcement  of  the  laws 
and  the  proclamations  forever  abolishing  slavery — the  cause  and  pretext  of  the  Re- 
bellion— and  openel  the  way  to  the  rig^htful  aulhorit'es  to  restore  order,  and  inaugu- 
rate peace  ot  a  permanent  and  enduring  basi?  on  every  foot  of  American  soiL 
Your  marches,  seis^es  and  battles,  in  distance,  duration,  resolution  and  brilliancy  of 
results,  dim  the  lustre  of  tlie  world's  past  military  achievements,  and  will  be  the 
patriot's  precedent  in  the  defence  of  liberty  and  right  in  all  time  to  come.  In  obe- 
dience to  your  country's  call,  you  left  your  homes  and  familit;s,  and  voluntt-red  in 
her  defence.  Victory  has  crowned  your  valor  and  secured  the  purpose  of  your  pat- 
riotic hearts;  and  with  the  gratitude  of  your  countrymen,  and  the  highest  honors  a 
great  and  free  nation  can  accord,  you  will  soon  be  permitted  to  return  to  your 
homes  and  families,  conscious  of  having  discharged  the  highest  duty  of  Ameri- 
can citizens.  To  achieve  these  glorious  triumphs,  and  secure  to  yourselves,  fellow- 
countrymen  and  posterity,  the  blessings  of  free  in<=titutions,  tens  of  thousands  of 
your  gallant  comrades  have  fallen,  and  sealed  the  priceless  legacy  with  their 
blood.  The  graves  of  these  a  grateful  nation  bedews  with  tears,  honors  their 
memories,  and  will  ever  cherish  and  support  their  stricken  families." 

The  war  had  now  closed,  and  General  Grant  now  ad- 
dressed himself  with  great  energy  to  the  works  of  peace. 
By  the  23d  of  August  he  had  succeeded  in  mustering  out 
of  the  army  719,338,  and  by  November  15,  1865,  there  had 
been  returned  to  their  homes  800,963  men.  This  was  rap- 
idly followed  every  month  until  1,023,021  had  been  dis- 
charged. Horses  and  mules  had  been  sold  to  the  value  of 
$15,269,000;  barracks  and  hospitals  $447,873;  damaged 
clothing  yielded  $902,770;  military  railroads,  2,630  miles, 
with  6,695  cars  and  433  locomotives  transferred  over  to 
proper  authorities,  and  railroad  equipments  were  sold 
amounting  to  $10,910,812. 

The  whole  number  of  men  enlisted  at  different  times 
during  the  war  was  2,688,522.  Of  these,  56,000  were 
killed  in  battle;  219,000  died  of  wounds  and  disease  in  the 
military  hospitals,  and  So,ooo  died  after  discharge,  from 
disease  contracted  during  ser\-ice;  making  a  total  loss  of 
about  300,000  men.  About  200,000  were  crippled  or  per- 
manently disabled.  Of  colored  troops,  180,000  enlisted  and 
30,000  died.  More  than  $300,000,000  was  paid  in  bounties, 
and  by  States,  towns  and  cities  for  the  support  of  the  fami- 
lies of  soldiers.  The  Sanitary  Commission  disbursed,  in 
money  and  supplies,  $14,600,000.  The  Christian  Com- 
mission disbursed  $4,  =500,000. 


l6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

Congress  at  once  passed  a  bill  to  revive  the  grade, 
"  General  of  the  army  of  the  United  States,"  and  General 
Grant  was  appointed  to  the  position. 

On  December  12,  1867,  he  was  appointed  by  President 
Johnson  Secretary  of  War  ad  interim^  in  the  place  of  Hon. 
E.  M.  Stanton,  suspended,  which  position  he  held  until 
December  following,  when  the  senate  refused  to  sanction 
the  suspension  of  Mr.  Stanton.  On  the  21st  of  May,  1868, 
General  Grant  was  nominated  by  the  national  republican 
convention,  assembled  at  Chicago,  having  received  every 
vote  cast;  elected  President  the  November  following,  hav- 
ing received  two  hundred  and  fourteen  electoral  votes, 
against  eighty  for  Horatio  Seymour,  democrat.  Inaugu- 
rated March  4,  1869,  and  was  re-elected  in  1872,  over 
Horace  Greeley,  receiving  two  hundred  and  eighty-six 
votes  against  sixty-three  scattering  (Mr.  Greeley  having 
died).  Inaugurated  March  4,  1873,  he  vacated  the  Presi- 
dency only  upon  the  expiration  of  his  time,  March  4,  1877. 

To  one  who  has  read  what  General  Grant  has  done, 
little  need  be  said  as  to  what  manner  of  man  he  is.  The 
outline  of  his  life  shows  his  ability.  Such  achievements 
are  not  the  result  of  luck  or  accident.  They  are  seldom 
seen  in  history.  He  has  not  only  shown  great  ability,  but 
wisdom,  practical  sagacity  and  independence  in  the  whirl 
of  extraordinary  and  important  events  which  have  occurred 
at  Washington  and  in  the  South  since  the  close  of  the  war. 

For  some  months  previous  to  the  expiration  of  Gen- 
eral Grant's  second  term  of  office,  he  felt  the  need  of  ab- 
solute rest,  and  that  he  might  be  entirely  relieved  from  all 
cares  and  annoyances  that  would  necessarily  reach  him, 
even  in  retirement,  he  planned  a  tour  of  the  world,  to  occu- 
py at  least  two  years,  hoping  to  find  the  relief  sought  for. 
The  history  of  this  tour,  with  its  unprecedented  and  un- 
looked-for ovations  and  triumphal  tour  will  be  found  of  in- 
tense interest  to  every  American. 


CHAPTER  II. 


OFF   FOR   EUROPE. 

On  May  17th,  1877,  ex-President  U.  S.  Grant,  his  wife, 
and  son  Jesse,  sailed  from  Philadelphia  for  Europe,  via 
American  Line  steamer  Indiana.  His  departure  was  made 
the  occasion  of  a  great  parting  demonstration,  in  which 
all  classes  of  the  community  seemed  to  take  a  hearty  and 
enthusiastic  share.  The  courtesies  extended  to  him  in 
every  city  through  which  he  had  passed  since  his  retire- 
ment from  the  Presidency  were  alike  creditable  to  those 
who  proffered,  and  to  him  who  received  them,  and  were 
the  outburst  of  a  people  who  recognized  his  great  military 
and  civil  services.  Before  leaving  the  steamer  that  con- 
veyed the  General  to  the  Indiana,  a  very  interesting  cere- 
mony took  place  on  board.  In  the  ladies'  cabin  a  private 
table  was  spread  for  the  distinguished  guests,  among  whom. 
were  General  Grant,  at  the  head  of  the  table;  General 
Sherman,  on  his  right;  Mayor  Stokley,  of  Philadelphia^ 
on  his  left;  Honorable  Hamilton  Fish,  Colonel  Fred. 
Grant,  Honorable  Zach.  Chandler,  Honorable  Simon  Cam- 
eron, Honorable  Don  Cameron,  and  other  prominent 
military  and  civil  officers.  After  luncheon,  Mayor  Stokley 
arose  and  toasted  the  "  honored  guest  of  the  day  "  in  a  few 
appropriate  and  eulogistic  remarks.    General  Grant  replied  t 

"Mr.  Mayor  and  Gentlemen:  I  had  not  expected 
to  make  a  speech  to-day,  and  therefore  can  do  nothing 
more  than  thank  you,  as  I  have  had  occasion  to  do  so  of^e© 

a 


l8  GENERAL   U.    S.    GRANT's 

within  the  past  week.  I  have  been  only  eight  days  in 
Philadelphia,  and  have  been  received  with  such  unexpect- 
ed kindness  that  it  finds  me  with  no  words  to  thank  you. 
What  with  driving  in  the  park,  and  dinners  afterward, 
and  keeping  it  up  until  after  midnight,  and  now  to  find 
myself  still  receiving  your  kind  hospitality,  I  am  afraid 
you  have  not  left  me  stomach  enough  to  cross  the  Atlan- 
tic." 

This  was  followed  by  short  and  highly  complimentary 
speeches  from  General  Sherman,  ex-Secretary  Fish,  ex- 
Secreiary  Chandler,  ex-Secretary  Robeson,  ex-Senator 
Cameron,  General  Bailey,  Governor  Hartranft,  and  others; 
and  so  affected  General  Grant  that  he  replied: 

"My  Dear  Friends:  I  was  not  aware  mat  -we 
would  have  so  much  speech-making  here,  or  that  it  would 
be  necessary  for  me  to  say  any  more  to  you,  but  I  feel  that 
the  compliments  you  have  so  showered  upon  me  were  not 
altogether  deserved — that  they  should  not  all  be  paid  to 
aie,  either  as  a  soldier  or  as  a  civil  officer.  As  a  General 
your  praises  do  not  all  belong  to  me — as  the  executive  of 
the  nation  they  are  not  due  to  me.  There  is  no  man  who 
can  fill  both  or  either  of  these  positions  without  the  help 
of  good  men.  I  selected  my  lieutenants  when  I  was  in 
both  positions,  and  they  were  men,  I  believe,  who  could 
have  filled  my  place  often  better  than  I  did.  I  never  flat- 
tered myself  that  I  was  entitled  to  the  place  you  gave  me. 
My  lieutenants  could  have  acted  perhaps  better  than  I,  had 
the  opportunity  presented  itself.  Sherman  could  have 
taken  my  place,  as  a  soldier  or  in  a  civil  office,  and  so  could 
Sheridan,  and  others  I  might  name.  I  am  sure  if  the  coun- 
try ever  coines  to  this  need  again  there  will  be  men  for  the 
work.  There  will  be  men  born  for  every  emergency. 
Again  I  thank  you,  and  again  I  bid  you  good-bye;  and 
once  again  I  say  that,  if  I  had  failed,  Sherman  or  Sheri- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I9 

dan,  or  some  of  my  othei"  lieutenants,  would  have  succeed- 
ed." 

Shortly  after  this,  the  General  was  transferred  to  the 
Indiana,  last  good-byes  were  said,  and  the  steamer  pro- 
ceeded on  her  way  to  England,  arriving  at  Queenstown 
May  27,  without  mishap,  the  General  and  party  having 
passed  a  delightful  voyage,  almost  entirely  free  from  the 
disagreeable  effects  of  "  seasickness",  that  renders  an 
"  ocean  trip  "  so  unpleasant.  He  was  met  by  a  delegation 
of  prominent  city  officials,  and  tendered  the  hospitalities 
of  Queenstown,  with  the  assurance  that  every  village  and 
hamlet  of  Ireland  had  resounded  with  the  praises  of  his 
name,  and  would  welcome  him  with  all  the  warmth  and 
candor  of  the  Irish  people.  He  replied  that  he  could 
not  then  avail  himself  of  their  hospitality,  but  would 
return  to  Ireland  within  a  short  time. 

Reaching  Liverpool  at  half  past  two  p.  m.,  all  the  ship- 
ping in  the  Liverpool  docks  exhibited  a  profuse  display  of 
bunting,  the  flags  of  all  nations  waving  along  the  seven 
miles  of  water  front.  An  immense  crowd  was  gathered 
on  the  docks  to  welcome  the  ex-Presidcnt,  and  he  landed 
amid  cheers  such  as  must  have  reminded  him  of  the  days 
directly  after  the  war,  when  he  was  received  by  New  York 
and  other  American  cities.  The  Mayor  of  Liverpool  read 
him  an  adilress  of  welcome,  saluting  him  as  an  illustrious 
statesman  and  soldier,  and  when  the  ex-President  modestly 
and  in  a  few  brief  words  acknowledged  the  honor  done 
him,  and  expressed  the  very  great  pleasure  he  had  from 
his  reception,  new  cheers  burst  forth  and  a  great  crowd 
followed  his  carriage  to  the  hotel. 

The  judgment  of  strangers  resembles  somewhat  the 
judgment  of  posterity.  As  he  is  regarded  in  European 
countries,  so,  doubtless,  he  will  stand  in  history,  when  the 
bitterness  and  the  littleness  of  partisan  strife  have  passed 


aO  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

away,  and  his  real  services  lo  his  country  and  his  real  char- 
acter are  better  understood.  But  in  spite  of  partisan  bitter- 
ness and  personal  ojDposition,  such  as  a  man  of  his  positi\e 
character,  placed  in  the  most  difficult  position  in  the  world, 
and  kept  there  during  eight  long  years,  could  not  fail  to 
arouse,  nothing  is  more  certain  than  that  General  Grant 
has  to-day  a  larger  share  of  the  gratitude  and  the  affection 
of  the  American  people  than  any  other  of  our  public  men 
No  matter  how  widely  men  may  have  differed  from  him, 
no  matter  how  they  may  have  opposed  him,  if  they  are 
really  Americans,  and  if  they  are  manly  and  patriotic  men, 
in  their  hearts  they  wish  well  to  the  man  who  led  our 
armies  to  victory;  whose  firm  will  saved  the  Union,  and 
who — no  matter  what  they  may  think  his  errors  during 
his  Presidency — entered  political  life  against  his  will,  and 
at  the  demand  of  the  people  gave  up  the  great  and  per- 
manent position  the  nation  had  given  him,  to  serve  it  in  a 
new  and  to  him  untried  and  unwelcome  field;  and  who, 
during  sixteen  long  and  weary  years,  stood  at  his  post  of 
duty  unrelieved  and  without  rest. 

It  is  a  fact  not  generally  remembered,  that  Grant's  great 
lieutenants  in  the  war — Sherman,  Sheridan  and  Farragut 
—  all  enjoyed  the  "vacation  in  Europe"  which  they  had 
so  well  earned.  To  General  Grant,  their  honored  chief, 
alone,  was  rest  denied.  The  country  required  of  him,  and 
him  alone,  that  he  should  derange  all  his  plans  in  life, 
that  he  should  put  off  the  period  of  rest  which  he  coveted 
and  which  he  had  earned,  that  he  should  even  surrender 
the  place  at  the  head  of  the  armies,  to  which  he  was  ap- 
pointed amid  the  plaudits  of  the  people,  in  order  contin- 
uously to  serve  them.  Few  men  of  such  arduous  and 
conspicuous  services  have  had  so  long  and  difficult  a  toui 
of  duty  imposed  ujDon  them.  Republics  are  said  to  be  un- 
grateful, but  our  own  is  not  so  entirely  cold  and  devoid  of 
gratitude  that  men  do  not  feel  a  keen  sense  of  gratification 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  31 

when  they  see  their  faithful  and  tired  servant  taking  his 
ease  at  last,  and  receiving  in  foreign  lands  the  honors  and 
the  respect  to  which  his  remarkable  career  so  eminently 
entitle  him. 

To  the  statesmen  and  soldiers  whom  he  will  meet,  even 
more  than  to  the  general  mnss,  he  will  be  an  object  of 
great  curiosity.  Except  Field  Marshal  Von  Moltke,  no 
general  of  our  days  has  commanded  and  wielded  such 
masses  of  men ;  no  general  whom  he  will  meet  can  boast 
of  a  more  brilliantly  conceived  or  a  more  daringly  exe- 
cuted campaign  than  that  of  Vicksburg;  no  one  of  them 
has  had  the  control  of  so  vast  a  field  of  war  r.s  he,  and 
surely  none  has  seen  hotter  fire  than  Grant  withstood  in 
the  desperate  days  of  the  Wilderness,  Spottsylvania  and 
Cold  Harbor.  In  every  country  in  Europe  which  he  may 
visit,  he  will  find  distinguished  military  chiefs  who  have 
studied  his  campaigns,  who  know  how  to  aj:)preciate  the 
dogged  courage  of  Shiloh,  the  brilliant  audacity  of  Vicks- 
burg, the  genius  which  recovered  an  imperilled  position 
before  Chattanooga,  the  indomitable  perseverance  of  the 
Virginia  campaigns,  and  the  broad  and  comprehensive  view 
which  enabled  him  to  plan  the  operations  of  armies 
stretched  across  half  a  continent. 

Nor  will  distinguished  civilians  be  less  eager  to  hear  his 
voice  and  to  scrutinize  his  features,  for  they  Avill  remem- 
ber that  he  acted  a  foremost  part  in  many  of  the  most 
notable  events  of  the  century;  they  will  see  in  him  the 
supporter  and  right  hand  of  Lincoln  in  the  emancipation 
of  the  slaves,  the  restorer  of  peace,  the  general  who  re- 
turned a  million  of  soldiers  to  peaceful  industries,  the  ruler 
of  the  Anierican  republic  during  eight  years  of  extraordi- 
nary political  turbulence. 

All  ^the  journals  of  the  city  next  day  appeared  with 
highly  complimentary  editorials,  assuring  General  Grant 
of  a   generous    hospitality.      The  Daily  News  said  that 


aa  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

"  General  Grant  was  unquestionably  the  greatest  soldier 
living."  The  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  had  a  perfect  round 
of  festivities  at  Liverpool.  Hurried  visits  were  made  to 
all  points  of  interest,  visiting  and  examining  the  docks  of 
the  city,  enlisting  great  interest  from  General  Grant  in  the 
magnificent  dock  system,  and,  contrasted  with  the  system 
of  piers  in  the  United  States,  he  admitted  the  superiority 
of  these  supurb  and  substantial  structures  over  those  of 
the  East  and  North  rivers. 

The  party  returned  to  the  city,  and  were  driven  to  the 
town  hall  to  lunch  with  the  Mayor  and  other  civic  digni- 
taries. This  building  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the 
city,  and  the  figure  of  Britannia,  looking  abroad  from  the 
summit  of  the  great  dome,  reminds  the  visitor  of  the  now 
celebrated  Hermann  monument  in  Germany.  The  ex- 
President  was  escorted  to  the  reception  saloon,  and  subse- 
quently examined  the  portraits  of  former  mayors  and 
wealthy  merchants,  who  have  long  since  passed  away; 
the  famous  Chantry  statues  of  Canning  and  Roscoe,  and 
the  elegant  tapestry  with  which  the  various  saloons  are 
fitted  up. 

Lunch  was  prepared.  Covers  were  laid  for  fifty,  the 
table  being  beautifully  decorated  with  choice  flowers  and 
ornaments  in  confection,  suggestive  of  very  elaborate  pre- 
paration. Among  those  present,  were  the  Mayor,  the 
Mayoress,  members  of  the  city  council,  one  member  of 
parliament,  the  City  Solicitor  and  several  prominent  mer- 
chants. Mrs.  Grant  sat  on  the  left  of  the  Mayor,  and  our 
ex-President  on  his  right.  The  repast  was  served  immedi- 
ately the  guests  assembled,  and  was  a  most  enjoyable  affair. 

At  the  conclusion  of  lunch,  the  Mayor  arose  and  pro- 
posed the  health  of  the  Queen,  in  accurdanoe  with  the 
tradition  which  places  English  majesty  first  on  all  state 
and  festive  occasions.  This  was  drank  standing.  The 
host  next  proposed  the  health  of  "  General  and  ex-Presi- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  ij 

dent  Grant,  the  distinguished  soldier  and  statesman  pres- 
ent," remarking  that  it  would  be  unnecessary  for  him  to 
repeat  the  earnestness  of  their  welcome,  their  desire  to 
draw  closer  the  bonds  of  friendship  between  the  two  great- 
est commercial  nations  in  the  world,  and  especially  to  honor 
the  hero  of  a  hundred  battles,  whose  courage  and  skill 
challenged  their  admiration. 

Grant  responded  with  unusual  gayety  of  manner, 
acknowledging  the  pleasure  with  which  he  received  their 
constant  manifestations  of  gocd  will,  believing  that  ulti- 
mately the  bonds  of  union  must  be  strengthened  between 
the  two  countries.  He  excused  himself  from  an  extended 
reply.  During  the  luncheon,  the  streets  leading  to  the  town 
hall  were  packed  with  spectators. 

General  Grant  afterward  visited  the  exchange  and  news- 
rooms, where  he  was  received  with  great  enthusiasm. 
Leaving'  Liverpool  for  Manchester,  May  30,  immense 
crowds  gathered  along  the  route,  and  the  stations  were 
beautifully  decorated,  the  American  flag  being  everywhere 
prominent.  Arriving  at  Manchester  at  eleven  o'clock,  he 
was  received  b}'^  the  Mayor  and  Aldermen  and  a  tremen- 
dous crowd  of  citizens,  who  manifested  their  enthusiasm  by 
continued  cheering.  The  Mayor's  speech  was  quite  lengthy, 
and  referred  feelingly  to  a  similar  occasion,  when,  in  1S63, 
the  ship  Griswold  brought  a  cargo  of  provisions  to  the 
suffering  operatives  of  the  city,  who  had  been  thrown  out 
of  employment,  owing  to  the  failure  of  the  cotton  crop 
from  the  South.  This  address  was  followed  by  a  laudatory 
and  congi*atulatory  address  by  Sir  John  Heron,  recalling  the 
kind  expressions  which  the  Queen's  birthday  had  evoked 
in  America.  He  hoped  for  a  constant  increase  of  the  exist- 
ing good  feeling,  and  trusted  that  the  visit  of  the  ex-Presi- 
dent would  ultimately  lead  to  free  commercial  intercourse 
between  Ensfland  and  the  United  States. 

The  General,  who  had  listened  to  the  addresses  with 


24  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

that  quiet  composure  of  manner  peculiar  to  him  —  as 
unmoved,  though  the  target  of  thousands  of  eyes,  as  though 
alone — rising,  acknowledged  the  presentation.  "  It  is 
scarcely  possible  forme,"  he  said,  "to  give  utterance  to  the 
feelings  evoked  by  my  reception  upon  your  soil  from  the 
moment  of  my  arrival  in  Liverpool,  where  I  have  passed 
a  couple  of  days,  until  the  present  moment.  After  the 
scene  which  I  have  witnessed  in  your  streets,  the  elements 
of  greatness,  as  manifested  in  your  public  and  industrial 
buildings,  I  may  be  allowed  to  say,  that  no  person  could  be 
the  recipient  of  the  honor  and  attention  you  have  bestowed 
upon  me,  without  the  profoundest  feelings.  Such  have 
been  incited  in  me,  and  I  find  myself  inadequate  to  their 
proper  expression.  It  was  my  oi'iginal  purpose  on  my 
arrival  in  Liverpool  to  hasten  to  London,  and  from  thence 
proceed  to  visit  the  various  points  of  interest  in  the  coun- 
try. Among  these  I  have  regarded  Manchester  as  the 
most  important.  As  I  have  been  aware  for  years  of  the 
■great  amount  of  your  manufactures,  many  of  which  find 
their  ultimate  destination  in  my  own  country,  so  I  am  aware 
that  the  sentiments  of  the  arreat  mass  of  the  people  of  Man- 
-chester  went  out  in  sympathy  to  that  country,  during  ■  the 
'mighty  struggle,  in  which  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  take  some 
Siwiiible  part.  The  expressions  of  the  people  of  Manchester 
at  the  time  of  the  great  trial,  incited  within  the  breasts 
of  my  countrymen  a  feeling  of  friendship  toward  them, 
distinct  from  that  felt  toward  all  England;  and  in  that 
spirit  I  accept,  on  the  part  of  my  country,  the  compliments 
paid  me  as  its  representative,  and  thank  you." 

After  General  Grant  had  concluded  his  address  of 
thanks,  luncheon  was  served  in  the  large  banquet  hall. 
Toasts  to  the  Queen  and  the  Prince  of  Wales  were  pro- 
posed and  drank  with  all  the  honors.  The  Mayor  of  Man- 
chester responded  to  each  in  loyal  speeches.  The  health  of 
President  Hayes  was  then  proposed,  and  was  received  with 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  25 

enthusiasm.  Mr.  Newton  Crane,  United  States  consul  to 
Manchester,  responded  amid  apphuise.  After  these  form- 
ahties,  the  Mayor  of  Manchester  proposed  the  health  of 
General  Grant,  amid  the  plaudits  of  the  assemblage. 

General  Grant  replied,  with  a  humorous  twinkle  in  his 
eye,  that  Englishmen  had  got  more  speeches  and  of  greater 
length  out  of  him  than  his  own  countrymen;  but  they 
were  poorer,  because  they  were  longer  than  he  was  accus- 
tomed to  make.  He  warmly  returned  thanks  for  the 
reception  he  had  received  at  the  hands  of  the  people  of 
Manchester,  and  concluded  his  remarks  by  proposing  the 
health  of  the  Mayoress  and  the  ladies.  The  Mayor  replied 
in  suitable  terms. 

Mr.  Jacob  Bright,  M.  P.,  being  called  upon  for  a 
speech,  said :  "No  guest  so  distinguished  has  ever  before 
visited  Manchester.  General  Grant  is  a  brave  soldier,  and 
he  has  pursued  a  generous,  pacific  policy  toward  the  ene- 
mies he  had  conquered.  He  should  be  honored  and  beloved, 
and  deserves  the  hearty  reception  he  will  receive  through- 
out the  realm."  After  the  banquet,  the  General  was  intro- 
duced to  the  assemblage,  and  a  general  hand-shaking  fol- 
lowed. In  the  evening  he  visted  the  Theatre  Royal,  and 
spent  a  short  time  at  the  Prince's  Theatre.  His  reception 
at  both  places  was  very  enthusiastic. 

The  journey  from  Manchester  to  London  was  marked 
by  hearty  greetings  and  welcomes  at  the  several  stations, 
and  imposing  demonstrations  were  made  at  Leicester  and 
Bedford,  as  the  handsomely  decorated  cars  reached  those 
places.  To  some  of  the  addresses  that  were  made  to  him, 
General  Grant  replied  with  an  ease  and  sincerity  which, 
no  doubt,  made  our  British  cousins  wonder  how  he  came 
by  his  title  of  the  "silent  president."  The  secret  lies,  prob- 
ably, in  the  fact  that  the  General  detests  forms  and  shams 
and  political  intrigue,  and  he  had  good  reasons  for  his  taci- 
turnity when  he  found  himself  surrounded  by  politicians 


j6  general  u.  s.  grant's 

whom  his  judgment  told  him  it  was  dangerous  to  trust.- 
His  welcome  in  England  was  a  genuine  outpouring  of  a 
nation's  respect  and  admiration,  and  as  such  General  Grant 
received  it,  and  responded  to  it  with  an  unembarrassed  and 
earnest  sinceritj. 


CHAPTER    IIL 


GENERAL    GRANT    IN   LONDON. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  the  terminus  of  the  Midland 
Railway  (St.  Pancras  Station),  London,  June  i,  where  he 
was  met  by  Minister  Pierrepont,  in  behalf  of  the  United 
States,  and  Lord  Vernon.  Huge  crowds  thronged  the 
entrance  to  the  station,  and  cheered  loudly,  but  there 
were  no  speeches.  General  Grant  and  party  at  once 
entered  Minister  Pierrepont's  carriage,  and  were  driven 
rapidly  down  Tottenham  Court  Road  into  Oxford  street, 
thence  to  the  residence  of  the  American  Minister.  During 
the  afternoon  he  was  introduced  to  the  Prince  of  Wales,  it 
being  his  first  visit  of  importance  since  reaching  the  city. 

The  following  day  General  Grant,  Prince  of  Wales, 
Duke  of  Cambridge,  Lord  Dudley,  Lord  Eicho,  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  the  German  Ambassador,  Count  Munster, 
and  a  number  of  Peers,  left  London  by  rail  to  witness 
the  races  at  Epsom.  Returning  to  London,  General 
Grant  was  entertained  at  a  grand  banquet  at  Apsley  House,, 
given  in  his  honor  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington.  It  was 
a  splendid  and  hearty  reception.  The  guests  were  Mrs. 
and  General  Grant,  Count  and  Courrtess  Gleichen,  Lord 
and  Lady  Abercromby,  Lord  and  Lady  Churchill,  Mar- 
quises Tweeddale,  Sligo  and  Ailesbury,  Earl  Roden,  Via 
count  Torrington,  Lords  George  Paget,  Calthorpe,  Hough- 
ton, Strathnairn,  the  Marchioness  of  Hertford,  Countess 
of  Hardwicke,  Countess  of  Bradford,  Lady  Wellesley, 
Lady  Emily  Peel  and  Lady  Skelmersdale,  Miss  Wellesley,. 


l8  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

and  a  number  of  others  well  known  to  the  London  world 
of  high  social  life. 

The  banquet  was  served  up  in  the  famous  Waterloo 
Chamber,  where  the  old  Iron  Duke  loved  to  meet  the  war 
generals  of  1815  ^'^  ^^^^  ^^^^^  of  June  every  year,  and  cele- 
brate the  anniversary  of  the  great  battle  which  forever 
closed  the  fortunes  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte.  Here,  over- 
looking Hyde  Park  and  within  view  of  his  own  statute  at 
the  entrance  to  the  park  at  Hyde  Park  corner,  the  old 
Duke  presided  over  the  annual  banquet,  reviewing  the 
events  of  the  ^^momentous  times  when  the  supremac}''  of 
Great  Britain  was  hanging  in  the  balance,  with  strong 
probabilities  of  the  scale  turning  against  her.  The  Water- 
loo Chamber  has  been  closed  a  good  deal  since  the  death 
of  Arthur  Wellesley,  for  the  present  Duke  and  Duchess 
have  spent  most  of  their  time  when  in  England  at  the 
lovely  estate  in  Winchelsea,  which  was  presented  to  the 
eminent  soldier  by  the  Crown  after  the  close  of  the  great 
European  wars. 

The  present  owner  of  the  estates  and  titles  of  Welling- 
ton is  a  quiet,  unassuming  gentleman,  who  loves  the  fine 
arts,  is  a  writer  of  ability,  fishes  in  his  lake  at  Winchelsea, 
and,  during  the  season  in  London,  patronizes  the  clubs.  He 
is  Lord  of  the  Manor  of  Surrey,  appoints  the  justices 
of  the  peace  and  attends  to  the  poor.  He  is  a  member  of 
the  House  of  Lords,  of  course,  but  he  has  rarely  done  more 
than  record  his  vote  on  such  extraordinary  occasions  as 
the  disestablishment  of  the  Church  of  Ireland,  and  mat- 
ters affecting  the  autonomy  in  his  party.  The  Duchess  is 
considered  one  of  the  handsomest  ladies  m  Europe,  and  has 
always  been  a  great  favorite  with  Queen  Victoria.  As  a 
lady  in  waiting,  she  attends  Her  Majesty  on  all  state  occa- 
sions. Hence  the  tastes  and  desires  of  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  have  lead  them  to  neglect  Apsley  House  to  some 
extent. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  29 

This  Waterloo  Chamber  still  contains  some  of  the  fine 
old  paintings  which  were  hung  upon  the  walls  by  the  first 
Duke.  For  instance,  there  is  the  celebrated  painting, "  Sign- 
ing the  treaty  of  Westphalia,"  where  the  commander-in- 
chief  is  the  central  figure  of  a  galaxy  of  generals,  such  as 
has  seldom  been  gathered  together  since.  A  magnificent 
life-size  portrait  of  Napoleon,  Landseer's  "  Van  Amburgh 
and  the  Lions,"  Correggio's  "  Christ  on  the  Mount  of 
Olives,"  on  a  panel,  and  full  length  portraits  of  foreign 
sovereigns  and  notabilities,  by  Velasquez,  Wilkie  and 
Teniers,  are  in  the  saloons  adjoining.  The  Duke  was  look- 
ing out  of  the  main  window  overlooking  the  park  at  the 
time  the  house  was  mobbed  by  the  reformers  whom  he 
opposed. 

It  was  a  dramatic  incident,  that  the  conqueror  of  Lee 
should  meet  in  this  revered  chamber  the  descendant  of  the 
conqueror  of  Napoleon  the  Gi"eat.  General  Grant  was 
given  precedence  in  the  honors  of  the  evening,  escorting 
the  Duchess  of  Wellington  to  supper,  and  afterward  escort- 
ing her  to  the  reception,  at  which  were  present  the  Duke 
and  Duchess  of  Cleveland,  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Suth- 
erland, the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Manchester,  and  many 
of  those  already  mentioned  above. 

There  were  no  speeches  of  note  at  the  supper,  which 
was  a  quiet  though  brilliant  affair.  The  grand  gaseliers 
lit  up  the  magnificent  hall  and  the  lovely  damasks  and 
laces,  and  revealed  the  wealth  of  gold  and  silver  and  the 
flowers  and  confections  of  the  table. 

General  Grant  attended  divine  service  on  the  3d  in 
Westminster  Abbey.  An  eloquent  sermon  was  preached 
by  Dean  Stanley,  from  Genesis  xxvii.  38.  In  the  course 
of  his  sermon  he  alluded  to  ex-President  Grant,  saying, 
"  that  in  the  midst  of  the  congregation  there  was  one  of 
the  chiefest  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who  had  just  laid 
down  his  sceptre   of  the  American  commonwealth,  who, 


3°  GENERAL   U.    S.    GRANT'S 

by  his  military  prowess  and  generous  treatment  of  his  com- 
rades and  adversaries,  had  restored  unity  to  his  country. 
We  welcome  him  as  a  sign  and  pledge  that  the  two  great 
kindred  nations  are  one  in  heart,  and  are  equally  at  home 
under  this  fraternal  roof.  Both  regard  with  reverential 
affection  this  ancient  cradle  of  their  common  life." 

Although  the  Duke  of  Wellington  was  the  first  to 
exhibit  to  a  circle  of  admirers  the  great  lion  of  the  season, 
yet  it  was  only  possible  for  him  to  make  a  restricted  use  of 
his  triumph  in  favor  of  the  type  of  humanity  that  can  be 
invited  to  a  ducal  mansion.  The  r^ al  introduction  of  the 
ex-President  to  the  world  of  Londoners  was  made  on  the 
5th,  by  the  American  Minister,  in  a  reception  so  brilliant 
that  all  occasions  of  the  sort  which  have  hitherto  shonff 
in  the  annals  of  our  legaiions  abroad  will  become  a  prey 
to  "dumb  forgetfulness."  In  each  one  of  the  engage- 
ments scored  for  a  month  ahead,  the  ex-President  met 
some  one  set  of  English  society  —  men  of  this  or  that 
part}'-  or  shade  of  opinion,  men  of  science  or  of  letters, 
army  men  or  navy  men — but  at  the  legation,  and  presented 
by  the  American  Minister,  he  had  an  opportunity  to  make 
the  acquaintance  of  English  society,  without  regard  to  the 
lines  which  divide  it  into  so  many  coteries,  and  saw  at  its 
best  that  average  quantity  of  the  London  world  which 
he  could  never  get  at  one  view  save  on  some  such  neutral 
ground  as  our  Minister's  parlors.  The  reception  at  Min- 
ister Pierrepont's  was  immensely  successful.  The  lega- 
tion in  Cavendish  Square  was  interiorly  decorated  with 
the  grandest  profusion  of  flowers,  with  the  grand  old 
American  flag  over  all.  Since  the  announcement  was 
made  that  the  Minister  would  receive  the  ex-President, 
Mrs.  Pierrepont  had  been  overwhelmed  with  requests  for 
invitations,  and  out  of  her  good  nature  acceded,  until  the 
number  of  cards  out  guaranteed  perhaps  a  greater  throng 
than  would  ordinarily  be  comfortable.     But,  after  all,  what 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  3I 

•is  a  reception  without  a  crush?  Despite  the  immense 
crowd,  especially  of  on-Iookers,  in  Cavendish  Square, 
there  was  not  the  slijrhtest  confusion.  Carriasrcs  rolled 
up,  occupants  moved  out  and  up  into  the  mansion,  with 
that  absence  of  surrounding  noise  and  shouting  that  char- 
acterizes your  true  reception  where  the  ton  is  bon  and  the 
servants  well  drilled. 

On  entering,  the  guests  were  shown  into  the  cloak 
rooms,  on  the  ground  floor,  where  wraps  were  left  and  a 
last  glance  in  the  mirrors  taken.  Who,  even  a  philoso- 
pher, disdains  that  last  reflective  glance? 

On  ascending  the  drawing-room  floor,  the  guests  were 
announced  in  the  small  ante-room  where  stood  Mrs. 
Pierrepont,  General  Grant,  Colonel  Badeau,  Mrs.  Grant, 
and  Mr.  Fierrepont,  in  the  order  given. 

General  Grant  was  attired  in  plain  evening  dress,  which 
was  conspicuous  in  its  plainness  amid  the  stars,  garters 
and  ribbons  worn  by  many  of  lesser  note;  even  the  Jap- 
anese Minister  was  more  gorgeous.  As  for  the  Chinese 
Embassy,  no  tea  chest  ever  equalled  their  curious  splendor. 

Mrs.  Grant  wore  a  toilet  of  claret-colored  stamped  vel- 
vet, and  cream  satin,  high-necked,  and  with  long  sleeves. 

Mrs.  Pierrepont  was  clad   in  an  elaborate  costume  of    , 
scarlet  and  black. 

Among  the  English  notables  present,  were  the  Lord 
Chancellor,  the  Dukes  of  Leeds  and  Bedford,  the  Marquises 
of  Salisbury  and  Hertford,  the  Earls  of  Derby,  Belmore, 
Longford,  Dunravan,  Ducie,  Caithness  and  Shaftesbury, 
Lord  Airey,  General  Probyn,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gladstone, 
with  peers  and  peeresses  innumerable. 

Every  American  resident  responded  to  the  Minister's 
invitation.  The  Morgans  and  the  Peabodys,  Mr.  James 
McHenry,  Chevalier  Wikoff,  Mr.  G.  W.  Smalley,  Chief 
Justice  Shea,  Mr.  Moncure  D.  Conway,  Mr.  Newton  Crane, 
Consul  at  Manchester,  Mrs.   Fairchild,  Mrs.  Julia  Ward 


32  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

Howe  and  her  daughter  Maud,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ives,  Mrs. 
Hicks  and  Miss  Nannie  Schomberg,  were  among  the  most 
prominent. 

The  immense  majority  of  the  dresses  of  the  ladies 
were  in  excellent  taste,  and  none  were  censurable.  The 
American  belles  carried  away  the  palm  for  style  and  beauty, 
as  they  usually  do  on  such  occasions. 

At  half-past  twelve  Mrs.  Pierrepont  and  General  Grant 
came  down  stairs,  and,  standing  in  the  lower  hall,  bade 
farewell  to  the  parting  guests,  while  Mrs.  Grant,  Mr. 
Pierrepont  and  Colonel  Badeau  took  up  position  in  a  separ- 
ate room,  the  amiable  Secretary  of  Legation,  Mr.  William 
J.  Hoppin,  hovering  over  one  and  all.  The  children  of 
both  nations  left  the  legation  with  a  feeling  that  the  tie  be- 
tween them  had  been  strengthened  in  the  generous  hospi- 
tality of  the  American  representative  and  the  cordial 
response  of  England's  best  and  greatest. 

On  the  6th,  General  Grant  dined  with  the  Earl  Car- 
narvon, and  in  the  evening  attended  the  royal  concert  at 
Buckingham  Palace;  on  the  7th,  dined  with  Lord  Hough- 
ton; on  the  Sth,  with  the  Marquis  of  Hertford,  where  he 
met  about  fifty  of  the  members  of  the  house  of  lords,  and 
in  the  evening  a  grand  reception  tendered  by  General 
Badeau,  in  Beaufort  Gardens.  Here  his  reception  was 
brilliant,  and  only  eclipsed  by  that  *of  Minister  Pierrepont. 
When  General  Grant  arrived,  a  distinguished  company  had 
already  assembled  in  the  drawing-room,  by  whom  he  was 
most  warmly  greeted.  Among  the  first  to  welcome  him 
was  Mr.  Gladstone,  who  appeared  to  take  great  interest  in 
American  affairs. 

As  General  Grant  moved  about  the  saloon,  he  encoun- 
tered Lord  Northbrooke,  Lord  Fitzwilliam,  Lord  O'Hagan, 
Sir  Charles  Dilke,  Sir  James  Colville,  Viscount  Reid- 
haven,  Sir  Patrick  and  Lady  Grant,  who  claim  some  kind 
of   kinship   with   our   illustrious    countryman;    the   Lord 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  33 

Bishop  of  Bristol  and  Gloucester,  Jacob  and  Mrs.  Bright, 
Mr.  Kinglake,  Tom  Hughes,  who  has  become  almost  a 
hero  to  Americans;  Mr.  Macmillan,  the  publisher  of  the 
celebrated  magazine  bearing  his  name;  Mr.  Walter,  pro- 
prietor of  the  Times/  Mr.  Bothwick,  of  the  Morning 
Post,  and  Baron  Reuter. 

On  the  9th,  General  Grant  attended  a  reception  at  the 
Hertford  mansion,  having  lunched  with  Lord  Granville 
previously.  On  the  nth,  he  was  at  his  daughter's,  Mrs. 
Sartoris,  remaining  until  the  15th,  when  occurred  the 
grand  reception  by  the  corporation  of  London,  at  which 
time  he  was  made  an  honorary  citizen,  and  presented  with 
the  freedom  of  the  city. 

The  presentation  of  the  freedom  of  the  city  of  London 
is  always  an  event  of  importance.  It  is  no  common  honor. 
The  greatest  heroes  and  the  proudest  monarchs  have  been 
reckoned  among  the  "  freemen."  George  HL,  who  always 
expressed  a  supreme  contempt  for  ordinary  matters  and 
mortals,  had  to  acknowledge  that  the  city  of  London  could 
bestow  a  franchise  more  valuable  than  all  the  knighthoods 
and  baubles  of  the  crown.  Since  his  day  hundreds  of  men, 
whose  works  will  ever  be  regai-ded  as  the  gems  of  historv 
— statesmen,  scientists,  lawyers,  merchants,  princes — have 
been  recorded  in  the  grand  old  book  which  is  prized  bv 
the  corporation  of  London  more  than  all  the  privileges  and 
immunities  granted  by  the  government.  George  Peabodv, 
the  noble  and  benevolent  American  merchant,  whose  name 
is  ever  uttered  by  the  poor  of  the  English  metropolis  with 
affectionate  reverence,  was  made  a  freeman.  General  Gari- 
baldi, the  liberator  of  Italy  and  the  father  of  Italian  imitv, 
received  the  same  privilege.  The  Shah  of  Persia,  the  Sul- 
tan of  Turkey,  the  Czar  of  Russia,  Prince  Leopold  of 
Belgium,  Napoleon  III.,  General  Blucher  and  M.  Thiers 
were  also  presented  with  the  rights,  privileges  and  immu- 
3 


34  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

nities  of  the  dwellers  within  "  ye  Bishopsgate  "  and  Temple 
Bar. 

It  has  often  been  asked,  What  is  the  freedom  of  the 
city  of  London?  It  is  simply  this — a  small  slip  of  parch- 
ment, inscribed  with  the  name  and  titles  of  the  person  to 
whom  it  is  to  be  presented,  guarantees  to  the  holder  and 
his  children  after  him  forever  the  right  to  live  and  trade 
within  the  city  prescribed  by  St.  Clements  in  the  west, 
Bishopsgate  in  the  east,  Pentonville  on  the  north,  and  the 
shores  of  the  Thames  on  the  south,  without  having  to  pay 
a  tax  on  the  goods  as  they  are  brought  through  the  gates. 
It  exempts  them  from  naval  and  military  service,  and  tolls 
and  duties  throughout  the  United  Kingdom.  It  insures  to 
his  children  the  care  of  the  Chamberlain,  who,  incase  they 
are  left  orphans,  takes  charge  of  their  property  and  admin- 
isters it  in  their  interest  until  they  arrive  at  years  of  matu- 
rity. The  parchment  bears  the  seal  and  signature  of  the 
Lord  Mayor  and  Chamberlain,  and  is  generally  ornamented 
with  ribbon,  and  illuminated.  It  is  always  enclosed  in  a 
long,  thin  gold  box,  and  is  intended,  of  course,  as  an  heir- 
loom. 

When  the  corporation  have  decided  to  confer  the  parch- 
ment upon  any  distinguished  individual,  he  is  notified  in  the 
old-fashioned  style  by  the  City  Chamberlain,  whose  missive 
begins,  "  You  are  hereby  commanded  to  appear  in  the 
common  hall,"  etc.,  naming  the  date  when  the  city  fathers 
will  be  present.  He  is  met  in  the  common  hall  by  the 
Mayor  and  Councillors.  The  City  Chamberlain  informs  him 
that  the  city  has  decided  to  confer  upon  him  the  privileges 
of  a  fi'ee  citizen,  and  makes  an  address,  usually  applauda- 
tory  of  the  special  services  or  merits  of  the  individual.  The 
recipient  signs  his  name  in  the  Clerk's  book,  and  this  offi- 
cial and  the  City  Chamberlain  then  sign  their  names  beneath, 
guarantors  or  "  compurgators,"  becoming,  according  to  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  35 

rule,  responsible  for  his  acts  as  a  citizen.  The  recipient 
then  steps  forward,  the  oath  is  administered  by  the  Cham- 
berlain, who  demands  that  he  shall  be  in  all  and  every 
respect  true  and  loyal  to  the  interests  of  the  city ;  he  shakes 
hands  with  the  Mayor,  Chamberlain,  Clerk  and  Councillors, 
and  the  gold  box  is  committed  to  his  care. 

The  reception  was  a  complete  success.  It  was  a  his- 
torical event  in  the  history  of  two  great  nations.  The 
event  excited  unusual  ^^interest,  even  in  cynical  London. 
The  day  was  sunny  and  clear,  being  what  many  of  the 
spectators  called  "  Queen's  weather." 

General  Grant  arrived  most  unostentatiously  in  the 
private  carriage  of  the  American  Minister,  accompanied 
by  his  wife,  Jesse  (his  son),  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pierrepont  and 
General  Badeau.  Ten  thousand  spectators  crowded  to  the 
edge  of  the  barricades  and  greeted  him  with  that  hearty 
cheering  peculiar  to  the  English  when  they  desire  to  wel 
come  a  stranger  of  distinction. 

Just  as  much  enthusiasm  was  manifested  as  on  the  occa- 
sion of  the  visits  of  the  Shah,  four  years  before,  and  when 
Garibaldi  took  the  Emperor  of  the  French  by  surprise  and 
accepted  an  ovation  such  as  will  never  be  forgotten  by 
those  who  witnessed  it  at  the  ^Mansion  House. 

As  Grant  alighted,  he  was  met  by  a  deputation  oi 
London  Aldermen,  arrayed  in  their  gorgeous  crimson 
robes  and  with  the  gold  chains  of  office  glittering  in  the 
sunlight.  As  he  passed  on  into  the  corridor,  a  company  of 
the  City  Guards  and  Yeomen  presented  arms  and  the 
crowd  ao:ain  trave  a  Ions:  cheer.     It  was  a  brilliant  scene. 

The  distinguished  party  were  then  escorted  into  the 
library.  Here  the  scene  became  bewildering  in  its  antique 
splendor.  The  stately  hall,  w^ith  its  stately  alcoves  lined 
with  books,  and  its  many  colored  windows  which  blushed  in 
the  golden  sunlight,  the  ladies  attired  in  their  variegated 
spring  toilets,  the  Aldermen  in  scarlet  and  the  Councilmen 


36  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

in  their  mazarine  robes,  all  presented  an  ensemble  at  once 
charming  and  inspiring.  The  band  played  «  Hail  Colum- 
bia "  as  the  party  entered. 

General  Grant  walked  in  a  dignified  and  self-possessed 
manner  toward  the  Mayor's  chair,  and  took  a  seat  to  the 
left  of  the  dais,  amid  the  most  cordial  cheering.  The 
City  Chamberlain  arose,  and  read  the  formal  address  on 
behalf  of  the  Mayor,  tendering  to  the  General  the  right 
hand  of  fellowship,  and  referring  at  length  to'the  fact  that 
he  was  the  first  President  of  the  American  Republic  who 
had  been  elevated  to  the  dignity  of  citizenship  of  the  city 
of  London. 

Alluding  to  the  kindness  extended  by  America  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales  and  Prince  Arthur,  he  said  the  corpor- 
ation received  General  Grant,  desiring  to  compliment  the 
General  and  the  country  in  his  person  by  conferring  on  him 
the  honorary  freedom  of  their  ancient  city,  a  freedom  exist- 
ing eight  centuries  before  his  ancestors  landed  on  Ply- 
mouth Rock — nay,  even  before  the  time  of  the  Norman 
Conqueror.  London,  in  conferring  the  honor,  recognized 
the  distinguished  mark  he  has  left  on  American  history, 
his  magnanimity,  his  triumphs  and  his  consideration  for  his 
vanquished  adversaries.  It  also  recognized  the  conciliatory 
policy  of  his  administration. 

They,  the  corporation,  fervently  hoped  he  would  enjoy 
his  visit  to  England;  that  he  might  live  long,  and  be 
spared  to  witness  the  two  great  branches  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  family  go  on  in  their  career  of  increasing  amity  and 
mutual  respect,  in  an  honest  rivalry  for  the  advancement 
of  the  peace,  the  hberty  and  the  morality  of  mankind. 

In  conclusion,  the  speaker  said:  "Nothing  now  remains. 
General,  but  that  I  should  present  to  you  an  illuminated 
copy  of  the  resolution  of  this  honorable  court,  for  the 
reception  of  which  an  appropriate  casket  is  preparing,  and, 
finally,  to  offer  you,  in  the  name  of  this  honorable  court, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  37 

the  right  hand  of  fellowship  as  a  citizen  of  London." 
The  Chamberlain  then  shook  General  Grant's  right  hand 
amid  loud  cheering. 

Grant  arose,  and  very  briefly  and  appropriately  thanked 
the  court  for  the  distinguished  honor,  and  then  signed  his 
name  to  the  roll  tg"  honor,  with  the  Clerk  and  Chamberlain 
as  compurgators. 

The  gold  casket,  containing  the  freedom  of  the  city,  is 
in  the  cinque  cento  style,  oblong,  the  corners  mounted  by 
American  eagles,  and  beautifully  decorated.  On  the 
reverse  side  is  a  view  of  the  entrance  to  the  Guildhall,  and 
an  appropriate  inscription.  At  the  ends  are  two  figures, 
also  in  gold,  finely  modeled  and  chased,  representing  the 
city  of  London  and  the  United  States,  and  bearing  their 
respective  shields,  the  latter  executed  in  rich  enamel.  At 
the  corners  are  double  columns  laurel  wreathed  with  corn 
and  cotton,  and  on  the  cover  a  cornucopia,  emblematic  of 
the  fertility  and  prosperity  of  the  United  States.  The 
rose,  shamrock  and  thistle  are  also  introduced.  The  cover 
is  surmounted  by  the  arms  of  the  city  of  London.  The 
casket  is  supported  by  American  eagles,  modeled  and 
chased  in  gold,  the  whole  standing  on  a  velvet  plinth  deco- 
rated  with    stars    and  stripes. 

The  company  then  proceeded  to  the  banqueting  hall, 
where  seats  had  been  provided  for  one  thousand  guests. 
The  Lord  Mayor  presided.  At  his  right  sat  General  and 
Mrs.  Grant,  Minister  and  Mrs.  Pierrepont,  General 
Badeau  and  Jesse  Grant. 

Among  the  distinguished  guests  present,  were  Sir  Staf- 
ford Northcote,  Lord  and  Lady  Tenderden,  Mr.  Stans- 
field,  Mr.  A.  E.  Foster,  several  peers  prominent  in  the 
house  of  lords,  a  number  of  the  members  of  the  house  of 
commons,  consuls,  merchants,  and  other  citizens  of  Lon- 
don. 

The  room  was  decorated  with  miniature  English  and 


38  GENERAL    U.    S.    GllANx'S 

American  flags,  and  the  tables  presented  an  interesting 
and   artistic  appearance. 

After  the  dejeuner^  the  toastmaster,  dressed  in  a  gor- 
geous silk  sash  formed  of  stars  and  stripes,  arose,  and  the 
bugle  sounded.  The  first  toast  was  "The  Queen,"  the  sec- 
ond was  "  The  Health  of  General  Grant,"  which  was 
received   by  the  guests  standing,  and  amid  great  cheering. 

The  Lord  Mayor  then  said:  "I,  as  chief  magistrate 
of  the  city  of  London,  and  on  the  part  of  the  corporation, 
ofTer  you  as  hearty  a  welcome  as  the  sincerity  of  language 
can  convey.  Your  presence  here,  as  the  late  President  of 
the  United  States,  is  esiDecially  gratifying  to  all  classes  of 
the  community,  and  we  feel  that,  although  this  is  your  first 
visit  to  England,  it  is  not  a  stranger  we  greet,  but  a  tried 
and  honored  friend.  Twice  occupying,  as  you  did,  the 
exalted  position  of  President  of  the  United  States,  and, 
therefore,  one  of  the  foremost  representatives  of  that  coun- 
try, we  confer  honor  upon  ourselves  by  honoring  you.  Let 
me  express  both  the  hope  and  the  belief  that,  when  you 
take  your  departure,  you  will  feel  that  many  true  friends 
of  yours  personally,  and  also  of  your  countrymen,  have 
been  left  behind.  I  have  the  distinguished  honor  to  pro- 
pose to  your  health.  Ma}^  you  long  live  to  enjoy  the  best 
of  health  and  unqualified  happiness." 

General  Grant's  reply  was  made  with  deep  emotion,  and 
was  simply  to  return  his  thanks  for  the  unexpected  honor 
paid  him,  and  his  desire  to  say  much  more  for  their  brilliant 
reception  than  he  could  express. 

"  The  United  States "  was  coupled  with  the  name  of 
Mr.  Pierrepont,  who  responded  in  a  happy  speech,  com- 
plimenting Grant  and  England.  The  final  toast  was  "  The 
city  of  London,"  and  responded  to  by  the  Lord  Mayor. 
The  company  then  dispersed  with  "  three  cheers  for  Gen- 
eral  Grant  and  the  United  States." 

After  leaving  the   Guildhall,  the    company  proceeded 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  39 

to  the  Mansion  House,  at  the  coiner  of  what  was  once 
the  famous  Bucklcsbury  and  Poultry.  Here  they  took 
coffee  with  the  Mayor. 

Then  the  Mayor's  state  carriage  was  ordered,  and  they 
drove  over  to  Sydenham  to  the  crystal  palace,  arriving  at 
the  main  entrance  at  half  past  four  o'clock  p.  m.  They 
were  received  with  the  most  boisterous  enthusiasm.  There 
were  at  least  thirty  thousand  persons  present.  A  tour  ot 
the  vast  building  was  rapidly  made,  the  party  dining  in  the 
west  wing.  General  Grant  avoided  all  demonstrations 
made  by  the  crowd.  When  darkness  set  in,  Grant  was 
escorted  to  the  place  of  honor  in  the  Queen's  corridor  of  the 
palace,  where  he  remained  for  some  time  smoking  and 
chatting  with  his  friends  and  their  ladies. 

A  grand  display  of  fireworks  took  place  during  the 
evening.  The  principal  pyrotechnic  display  pieces  were 
the  portrait  of  Grant  and  the  capitol  at  Washington,  which 
were  received  with  prolonged  cheers. 

At  about  eleven  o'clock  the  demonstration  finished, 
and  the  party  returned  to  town  in  their  carriages.  Gen- 
eral Grant,  on  parting  with  the  Mayor,  expressed  his  ex- 
treme gratification  and  pleasure. 

On  the  i6th.  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  dined  with  the- 
Marquis  of  Lome  and  the  Princess  Louise,  at  Kensington 
castle;  on  the  iSth,  at  breakfast  with  Mr.  George  W» 
Smalley,  correspondent  New  York  Tribune.  Everything 
Was  recherche^  and  the  company  of  the  choicest.  Among 
the  guests  were  Professor  Huxley,  the  scientist;  Matthew 
Arnold,  Sir  Charles  Dilke,  Sir  Frederick  Pollock,  Robert 
Browning,  A.  W.  Kinglakc,  Anthony  Trollope,  Tom 
Hughes,  Meredith  Townsend,  Frank  Hill,  Right  Honorable 
James  Stanfield,  and  many  others. 

In  the  evening  General  Grant  was  the  guest  of  the 
Reform  club.  Earl  Granville  presiding.  The  party  num- 
bered forty,  and  represented  the  liberal  ideas  which  the  club 


40  (JEXEItAI.    U.    S.    (, rant's 

sets  itself  the  task  of  cmboclviiiG:.  The  dinner  itself  was 
among  the  finest  ever  given  in  London,  the  cuisine  of  this 
association  of  liberal  orentlemen  beinsr  celebrated  all  over 
the  world,  and  free  from  all  danger  of  its  c/^^  ever  being 
called  on  to  fight  for  his  rejmtation  in  the  courts,  as  the 
Napoleon  of  the  soup  tureen  who  composes  banquets  for 
a   rival   club  was  oblisfcd   to  do  of  late.     The  table  was  a 

O 

picture  in  itself,  not  to  speak  of  the  good  things  between 
the  top  and  brtttom  of  the  menu. 

Earl  Granville,  as  soon  as  the  cloth  was  removed,  pro- 
posed the  health  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen.  To  this  the 
Right  Honorable  William  E.  Forster  responded  in  a 
singularly  eloquent  speech.  Tn  the  course  of  his  remarks 
he  referred  to  the  crreat  services  of  General  Grant  in  the 
cause  of  human  freedom.  He  dwelt  with  particular  em- 
phasis upon  the  importance  to  civilization  of  the  cultivation 
of  amicable  relations  between  the  two  great  countries,  Eng- 
land and  the  United  States.  With  great  felicity  he  pictured 
the  results  of  such  a  state  of  friendliness,  and  elicited  con- 
tinued cheering.  Passing  on  to  a  more  practical  branch  of 
his  subject,  he  amplified  upon  the  opportunities  for  ad- 
vancement to  the  human  race,  which  a  hearty  concord 
between  the  two  nations  would  give.  He  saw  in  it  the  ac- 
celeration of  discoveries  in  every  branch  of  science,  the 
material  progress  of  the  masses  and  the  setting  up  of  loftier 
standards  of  private  taste  and  public  virtue. 

Earl  Granville  proposed  the  health  of  "  the  Illustrious 
Statesman  and  Warrior,  General  Ulysses  S.  Grant,"  al- 
luding in  the  course  of  his  pithy  speech  to  the  beneficent 
results  accruing  to  both  nations  from  the  settlement  of  the 
Alabama  Claims.  "  England  and  America,"  he  said,  "nay, 
civilization  throughout  the  universe,  recognize  in  General 
Grant  one  of  those  extraordinary  instruments  of  Divine 
Providence  bestowed  in  its  beneficence  to  the  human  race." 

Upon  rising  to  reply,  General  Grant  was  greeted  with 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  4I 

a  perfect  storm  of  applause.  "T  am  overwhelmed,"  he 
said,  "with  the  kindness  shown  by  Englishmen  to  me 
and  expressed  to  America.  I  regret  that  I  am  unable  ade- 
quately to  express,  even  with  the  temptation  to  do  so  of 
the  omnipresent  enterprise  of  the  New  York  Herald 
[cheers] — to  express  my  thanks  for  the  manifold  fraternal 
courtesies  I  have  received.  Words  would  fail,  especially 
within  the  limitations  of  a  public  speech,  to  express  my 
feelings  in  this  regai'd.  I  hope,  when  an  opportunity  is 
offered  me  of  calmer  and  more  delibei'ate  moments,  to  put 
on  record  mv  grateful  recognition  of  the  fraternal  senti- 
ments of  the  English  people,  and  the  desire  of  America  to 
render  an  adequate  response."  "  The  speech  of  Earl  Gran- 
ville," he  continued,  "  has  insj^ired  thoughts  in  my  bosom 
which  it  is  impossible  for  me  adequately  to  present.  Never 
have  I  lamented  so  much  as  now  my  poverty  in  phrases  to 
give  due  expression  to  my  affection  for  the  mother  country." 

General  Grant  spoke  under  the  pressure  of  unusual 
feeling,  and  continued  with  unusual  eloquence  to  express 
the  hope  that  his  words,  so  far  as  they  had  any  value,  would 
be  heard  in  both  countries  and  lead  to  the  union  of  the 
English  speaking  people  and  the  fraternity  of  the  human 
race.  During  the  delivery  of  his  speech  the  applause  and 
cheering  was  almost  continuous  while  he  was  on  his  feet. 
The  dinner  was  the  greatest  demonstration  yet  made  in  the 
ex-F resident's  honor. 

The  interest  taken  by  the  American  public  in  the  move- 
ments of  General  Gi'ant  not  only  concerns  itself  with  the 
honors  showered  upon  the  great  soldier,  but  also  partakes 
of  curiosity  to  observe  what  effect  all  this  will  have  upon 
the  man.  He  has  always  been  individually  an  object  of 
speculation. 

During  the  war,  people  studied  his  cigar  stumps,  and 
we  all  remember  what  Lincoln,  judging  by  results,  thought 
of  his  brand  of  whisky.     His  silence  was  symbolical,  and 


GENERAL   U.   S.    GRANt's 

eager  partisans,  and  often  the  nation,  grasped  at  his  centen- 
tious  utterances — if  not  as  the  rallying  cries  of  new  ideas^ 
at  least  as  old  ones  put  into  fighting  form.  From  operating 
on  millions  of  men  he  has  become  a  being  to  be  operated 
on.  Princes,  dukes,  earls,  marquises,  viscounts,  have  him 
within  short  range,  and  fire  dinners  and  receptions  at  him. 
Princesses,  duchesses,  marchionesses,  open  all  their  batter- 
ies and  smiles  and  soft  speech  upon  him.  The  heavy  shot 
of  statesmen,  scientists  and  philanthropists  bang  into  his 
brain.  British  brass  bands  blaze  away  at  him,  British 
crowds  let  fly  volleys  of  cheers  at  him,  and  away  ahead  are 
seen  the  ammunition  trains  of  the  nobility,  gentry  and  com- 
mon people,  coming  up  with  more  dinners,  receptions,  civic 
honors,  brass  bands  and  cheers.  Almost  enough  to  make 
us  pity  him.     How  will  he  come  out  of  the  ordeal? 


CHAPTER  IV, 


GRANT  IN  ENGLAND. 

The  following  letter,  written  by  Gen.  Grant  to  George 
W.  Childs,  of  Philadelphia,  will  be  of  general  interest: 

"London,  Eng.,  June  i6,  1877. 

"My  Dear  Mr.  Childs: — After  an  unusually  stormy 
passage  for  any  season  of  the  year,  and  continuous  sea- 
sickness generally  among  the  passengers  after  the  second 
day  out,  we  reached  Liverpool  Monday  afternoon,  the  28th 
of  May.  Jesse  and  I  proved  to  be  among  the  few  good 
sailors.  Neither  of  us  felt  a  moment's  uneasiness  during 
the  voyage. 

"I  had  proposed  to  leave  Liverpool  immediately  on  arri- 
val, and  proceed  to  London,  where  I  knew  our  Minister  had 
made  arrangements  for  a  formal  reception,  and  had  accepted 
for  me  a  few  invitations  of  courtesy ;  but  what  was  my  sur- 
prise to  find  nearly  all  the  shipping  in  port  at  Liverpool 
decorated  with  flags  of  all  nations,  and  from  the  mainmast 
of  each  the  flag  of  the  Union  was  most  conspicuous. 

"The  docks  were  lined  with  as  many  of  the  population 
as  could  find  standing  room,  and  the  streets,  to  the  hotel 
where  it  was  understood  my  party  would  stop,  were  packed. 
The  demonstration  was,  to  all  appearances,  as  hearty  and 
as  enthusiastic  as  at  Philadelphia  on  our  departure. 

"The  Mayor  was  present  with  his  state  carriage,  to  con- 
vey us  to  the  hotel,  and  after  that  to  his  beautiful  country 
residence,  some  six  miles  out,  where  we  were  entertained 
at  dinner  with  a  small  party  of  gentlemen,  and  remained 


44  GENEKAL    U.    S.    GUANT's 

over  night.  The  following  day  a  large  party  was  given  at 
the  official  residence  of  the  Mayor,  in  the  city,  at  which 
there  were  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  distinguished 
citizens  and  officers  of  the  corporation  present.  Pressing 
invitations  were  sent  from  most  of  the  cities  of  the  kingdom 
to  have  me  visit  them.  I  accepted  for  a  day  at  Manchester, 
and  stopped  a  few  moments  at  Leicester,  and  at  one  other 
place.  The  same  hearty  welcome  was  shown  at  each  place, 
as  you  have  no  doubt  seen. 

"The  press  of  the .  country  has  been  exceedingly  kind 
and  courteous.  So  far  I  have  not  been  permitted  to  travel 
in  a  regular  train,  much  less  in  a  common  car.  The  Mid- 
land road,  which  penetrates  a  great  portion  of  the  island, 
including  Wales  and  Scotland,  have  extended  to  me  the 
courtesy  of  their  road,  and  a  Pullman  car  to  take  me 
wherever  I  wish  to  go  during  the  whole  of  my  stay  in 
England.  We  arrived  in  London  on  Monday  evening,  the 
30th  of  May,  when  I  found  our  Minister  had  accepted 
engagements  for  me  up  to  the  27th  of  June,  having  but  a 
few  spare  days  in  the  interval. 

"On  Saturday  last  we  dined  with  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, and  last  night  the  formal  reception  at  Judge  Pierre- 
pont's  was  held.  It  was  a  great  success,  most  brilliant  in 
the  numbers,  rank  and  attire  of  the  audience,  and  was 
graced  by  the  presence  of  every  American  in  the  city  who 
had  called  on  the  minister  or  left  a  card  for  me.  I  doubt 
whether  London  has  ever  seen  a  private  house  so  elabo- 
rately or  tastefully  decorated  as  was  our  American  minis- 
ter's last  night.  I  am  deeply  indebted  to  him  for  the  pains 
he  has  taken  to  make  my  stay  pleasant,  and  the  attentions 
extended  to  our  country.  I  appreciate  the  fact,  and  am 
proud  of  it,  that  the  attentions  I  am  receiving  are  intended 
more  for  our  country  than  for  me  personally.  I  love  to  see 
our  country  honored  and  respected  abroad,  and  I  am  proud 
to  believe  that  it  is  by  most  all  nations,  and  by  some  even 


TOUU    AltOl'XD    THE    WORLD,  45 

loved.  It  lias  always  been  my  desire  to  see  all  jealousy 
between  England  and  the  United  States  abated,  and  every 
sore  healed.  Together  they  are  more  powerful  for  the 
spread  of  commerce  and  civilization  than  all  others  com- 
bined, and  can  do  more  to  remove  causes  of  wars  by  cre- 
ating moral  interests  that  would  be  so  much  endangered 
by  war. 

"I  have  written  very  hastily,  and  a  good  deal  at  length, 
but  I  trust  this  will  not  bore  you.  Had  I  written  for  publi- 
cation, I  should  have  taken  more  pains. 

«U.  S.  Grant." 

On  the  19th,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  Minister  and 
Mrs.  Pierrcpont,  and  Consul-General  Badeau,  dined  at 
Marlborough  House  with  the  Prince  of  Wales.  The  din- 
ner  was  a  full  dress  affair.  Earls  Beaconsfield,  Derby  and 
Granville,  and  the  leading  members  of  the  government, 
were  present.  The  ex-President  occupied  the  seat  of  honor 
at  the  table.  The  dinner  proved  one  of  the  most  enjoyable 
since  the  General's  arrival. 

On  the  20th,  a  deputation  waited  on  ex-President  Grant 
at  General  Badeau's  house,  to  present  an  address  and  ex- 
press gratitude  for  his  aid  in  procuring  from  the  government 
of  the  United  States  recognition  of  the  claims  of  Mrs. 
Carroll,  whose  husband  was  killed  in  a  naval  engagement 
during  the  American  war.  The  deputation  was  presented 
by  Mr.  jSIullaly.  Dr.  Brady,  M.  P.,  said  he  had  been 
greatly  gratified,  as  had  all  Irishmen  to  whom  he  had 
spoken,  at  the  reception  of  General  Grant  in  this  country. 

The  General  said  it  was  very  gratifying  to  him  to 
know  that  a  case,  no  doubt  worthy  and  deserving,  had  been 
righted,  and  that  this  act  of  justice  had  been  performed  un- 
der his  government.  As  to  himself,  he  was  simply  the 
executive,  and  could  claim  no  credit  in  the  matter  further 
than  for  having  approved  what  was  done.    The  government 


46  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

of  the  United  States  was  much  like  that  of  England,  and 
was  divided  into  three  branches,  each  distinct  and  independ- 
ent. Of  course,  his  own  branch  had  its  share  in  urging 
the  claims  of  this  case,  but  without  legislative  action  nothing 
could  have  been  done. 

On  the  2ist,  ex- President  Grant  dined  at  the  residence 
of  Minister  Pierrepont.  The  Prince  of  Wales  was  pres- 
ent, attended  by  Major  General  Sir  Dighton  Probyn,  con- 
troller of  his  household.  General  Grant  sat  on  the  right 
of  the  prince,  and  Mrs.  Pierrepont  on  the  left.  Mrs.  Grant 
sat  opposite  the  Prince,  having  the  Duke  of  Richmond  on 
her  right  and  Mr.  Pierrepont  on  her  left.  Mesdames  Grant 
and  Pierrepont  were  the  only  ladies  present.  The  other 
guests  were  the  Turkish,  Austrian,  German,  French,  Italia? 
and  Russian  ambassadors;  tne  Dukes  of  Argyle,  Welling- 
ton and  Westminster;  the  Marquises  of  Salisbury,  Hertford 
and  Lansdowne;  the  Earls  of  Beaconsfield,  Derby  and 
Carnarvon;  Earls  Granville  and  Manvers;  Lords  Cairne, 
Manners  and  Houghton,  also  Sir  Stafford  Northcote;  Mi'. 
Cross,  Home  Secretary;  Mr.  Gawthorne  Hardy,  Mr.  Hop- 
pan,  Mr.  Beckwith  and  Jesse  Grant. 

On  the  2 2d,  a  special  performance  at  the  London  Royal 
Italian  Opera  was  given  in  honor  of  General  Grant.  The 
house  was  filled.  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  and  General 
Badeau  arrived  at  half-past  eight.  The  curtain  immediately 
rose,  disclosing  Mile.  Albani  and  the  full  chorus  of  the 
company,  behind  whom  was  a  group  of  American  flags. 
Mile.  Albani  sang  the  "  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  with  the 
full  chorus  and  orchestra.  General  Grant,  for  the  first  time 
since  his  arrival  in  England,  was  dressed  in  the  full  uniform 
of  a  major  general.  The  entire  audience  rose  on  the  Gener- 
al's entrance,  and  remained  standing  during  the  singing,  as 
did  also  the  General  and  wife.  After  the  song  was  fin- 
ished, he  was  loudly  applauded  and  bowed  in  response. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


47 


General  Grant  was  obliged  to  leave  early  to  go  to  the 
Queen's  ball  at  Buckingham  Palace.  The  General's  box 
was  decorated  with  flowers. 

On  the  24th,  General  Grant  was  present  at  a  banquet 
given  by  the  corporation  of  Trinity  House.  The  Prince 
of  Wales  presided.  Prince  Leopold,  Prince  Cliristian,  the 
Prince  of  Leinington,  the  Prince  of  Saxe-Weimar,  the 
Duke  of  Wellington,  the  Marquis  of  Hertford,  the  Earl  of 
Derby,  the  Earl  of  Carnarvon,  Sir  Stafford  Northcote, 
Mr.  Cross,  and  Chief  Justice  Sir  Alexander  Cockburn, 
were  among  the  distinguished  company  present. 

The  Prince  of  Wales,  referring  to  General  Grant,  in 
the  course  of  his  speech,  said :  "  On  the  present  occasion 
it  is  a  matter  of  peculiar  gratification  to  us  as  Englishmen 
to  Fec-elve  &s  our  guest  General  Graiii.  I  eaa  assure  him 
for  myself,  and  for  all  loyal  subjects  of  the  Queon,  that  it 
has  given  us  the  greatest  pleasure  to  see  him  as  a  guest  in 
this  country." 

Earl  Carnarvon  proposed  the  health  of  the  visitors,  and 
coupled  with  it  General  Grant's  name. 

He  said  "  Strangers  of  all  classes,  men  of  letters,  arts, 
science,  state,  and  all  that  has  been  most  worthy  and  great, 
have,  as  it  were,  come  to  this  center  of  old  civilization.  I 
venture,  without  disparagement  to  any  of  those  illustrious 
guests,  to  say  that  never  has  there  been  one  to  whom  we 
willingly  accord  a  freer,  fuller,  heartier  welcome  than  we 
do  to  General  Grant  on  this  occasion — not  merely  because 
we  believe  he  has  performed  the  part  of  a  distinguished 
general,  nor  because  he  has  twice  filled  the  highest  office 
which  the  citizens  of  his  great  country  can  fill,  but  because 
we  look  upon  him  as  representing  that  good  will  and  affec- 
tion which  ought  to  subsist  between  us  and  the  United 
States.  It  has  been  my  duty  to  be  connected  with  the 
great  Dominion  of  Canada,  stretching  several  thousand 
miles  along  the  frontier  of  the  United  States,  and  during 


4^  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

the  last  three  or  four  years  I  can  truthfully  say  that  noth- 
ing impressed  me  more  than  the  interchange  of  friendly 
and  good  offices  which  took  place  between  the  two  coun- 
tries under  the  auspices  of  President  Grant." 

General  Grant  replied  that  he  felt  more  impressed  than 
he  had  possibly  ever  felt  before  on  any  occasion.  He  came 
here  under  the  impression  that  this  was  Trinity  House,  and 
that  trinity  consisted  of  the  army,  navy,  and  peace.  He 
thought  it  was  a  place  of  quietude,  where  there  would  be 
no  talk  or  toasts.  He  had  been,  therefore,  naturally  sur- 
prised at  hearing  both.  He  had  heard  some  remarks  from 
His  Royal  Highness  which  compelled  him  to  say  a  word  in 
response.  He  begged  to  thank  His  Highness  for  these 
remarks.  There  had  been  other  things  said  durine  the 
evening  highly  gratifying  to  him.  Not  the  least  gratify- 
ing was  to  hear  that  there  were  occasionally  in  this  country 
party  fights  as  well  as  in  Ainerica.  Pie  had  seen  before 
now  a  war  between  three  departments  of  the  state,  the 
executive,  the  judicial,  and  the  legislative.  He  had  not 
seen  the  political  parties  of  England  go  so  far  as  that.  He 
would  imitate  their  chaplain,  who  had  set  a  good  example 
of  oratory  —  that  was  shortness  —  and  say  no  more  than 
simply  thank  His  Royal  Highness  and  the  company  on 
behalf  of  the  visitors. 

This  reception  at  Windsor  Castle,  on  the  26th,  may  be 
regarded  as  the  culmination  of  the  remarkable  social  atten- 
tions which  were  bestowed  on  General  Grant  in  such  pro- 
fuse abundance  durinjj  his  visit  to  England.  No  such 
honor'',,  nor  anything  approaching  them,  have  ever  before 
been  paid  to  an  American  citizen.  While  their  distinguished 
recipient  modestly  regards  them  as  a  compliment  to 
his  country  rather  than  to  himself,  it  is  pretty  safe  to  say 
that  there  is  no  other  American  citizen  through  whom  such 
honors  to  our  Republic  would  have  been  possible.  The 
English  people  feel,  as  all  mankind  in  all  ages  have  felt, 


Wm=^ 


igiii 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  49 

the  magic  of  great  military  names.  It  is  General  Grant's 
resplendent  and  successful  career  as  a  soldier,  rather  than  the 
fact  that  he  has  been  twice  elected  the  chief  magistrate  of  a 
great  country,  that  has  broken  down  so  many  social  barri- 
ers in  his  favor.  His  quiet  and  undemonstrative  personal 
manners  have  contributed  to  his  favorable  reception.  He 
is  such  a  contrast  to  the  offensive  bumptiousness  too  often 
cvhibited  by  Americans,  that  Englishmen  are  ready  to 
concede  a  great  deal  more  than  he  would  ever  think  of 
clniming  for  himself.  While  his  splendid  reception  is  no 
doubt  a  compliment  to  the  American  people,  it  is  also  a  great 
personal  compliment  to  the  only  man  who  could  have 
evoked  such  a  series  of  demonstrations. 

General  Grant  and  wife  left  London  by  the  five  P.  M. 
train  from  Paddington,  and  arrived  at  Windsor  at  thirty- 
five  minutes  past  five.  The  Mayor,  several  members  of  the 
corporation,  and  a  number  of  spectators,  were  assembled 
on  the  platform  to  witness  the  arrival.  The  General  and 
Mrs.  Grant,  who  were  accompanied  by  Minister  Pierre- 
pont,  were  conveyed  in  one  of  Her  Majesty's  carriages  to 
the  castle,  where  they  were  received  by  the  Queen  at  the 
bottom  of  the  staircase  at  the  Queen's  entrance,  and  con- 
ducted through  the  state  corridor  to  the  white  drawing 
room.  After  a  short  interview,  General  Grant  and  wife 
were  conducted  to  apartments  over  the  Watei'loo  Gallery, 
overlooking  the  Home  Park.  In  the  evening  a  grand 
dinner  party  was  given  in  General  Grant's  honor. 

Dinner  was  served  in  Oak  Room,  according  to  custom, 
which  reserves  St.  George's  Hall  for  state  banquets.  The 
party  was  small,  because  etiquette  requires  that  the  Queen 
shall  converse  with  every  guest. 

The    introductions    were    made   as    follows:     Minister 

Pierrepont,  advancing,   introduced    General   Grant;    then 

Lord  Derby  stepped  forward  with  Mrs.  Grant.    The  Queen 

shook  hands  with  them,  while  the  ladies  in  waiting  simply 

4 


50  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

bowed.  This  formality  at  an  end,  the  gentlemen  led  the 
way  to  the  Oak  Room.  The  Queen  sat  at  the  head  of  the 
table.  On  her  right  were  respectively  Prince  Leopold, 
Princess  Christian  and  General  Grant;  on  her  left  Prince 
Christian,  Princess  Beatrice  and  Minister  Pierrepont.  Then 
came  the  Duchess  of  Wellington,  Lord  Elphinstone  and 
Mrs.  Pierrepont;  Lord  Derby  and  Mrs.  Grant;  the  Duch- 
ess of  Roxburgh  and  Lc^d  Biddulph;  the  Countess  of 
Derby  and  Jesse  Grant. 

During  the  dinner,  the  band  of  the  Grenadier  Guards, 
under  Dan  Godfrey,  played  in  the  quadrangle.  The  en- 
joyment of  the  party  was  unconstrained,  the  Queen  taking 
a  prominent  part  In  the  lively  conversation,  during  which 
all  kinds  of  topics  were  discussed,  American  and  English, 
political  and  social.  The  Princess  Beatrice  is  a  brilliant 
conversationalist,  and  she  was  particularly  interesting  on 
many  American  social  topics,  which  she  thoroughly  under- 
stood. 

Most  of  the  ladies  were  all  dressed  in  black  with  white 
trimmings,  owing  to  the  deaths  recently  of  the  Queen  of 
Holland  and  the  Duke  of  Hesse-Darmstadt.  The  Queen 
was  attired  in  a  similar  style,  but  her  toilet  comprised  a 
very  magnificent  array  of  diamonds. 

After  dinner,  the  Queen's  party  proceeded  to  the  corridor, 
for  the  purpose  of  enabling  the  visitors  to  examine  it  more 
closely.  Here  they  met  another  party  from  the  Octagon, 
and  a  lively  conversation  ensued,  during  which  Her  Majesty 
talked  with  every  person  present. 

At  about  ten  o'clock  Her  Majesty  shook  hands  with  her 
lady  guests,  bowed  to  the  gentlemen,  and  retired,  followed 
by  other  members  of  the  royal  family  present. 

The  guests  then  entered  one  of  the  magnificent  draw- 
ing-rooms along  the  east  front,  where  they  were  enter- 
tained by  the  Queen's  private  band. 

Refreshments  having  been  served,  General  Grant  and 


\ 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  5! 

Minister  Pierrepont  played  whist  with  the  Duchesses  of 
WelHngton  and  Roxburgh,  during  which,  of  course,  the 
gentlemen  were  beaten.  Mr.  Pierrepont  played  badly;  so 
did  the  ex-President. 

At  half-past  eleven  o'clock,  the  Americans  retired  to  the 
rooms,  which  were  in  a  different  part  of  the  palace. 

The  following  morning,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  were 
driven  in  the  great  park,  in  a  carriage  usually  used  by  the 
Queen,  at  half-past  ten.  He,  with  Americans,  accompanied 
by  Mr.Ward  Hunt,  first  Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  and  Colonel 
Gardiner,  went  to  the  station  and  took  the  train  for  Bish- 
op's road  (Paddington). 

A  state  concert  was  given  at  Buckingham  Palace  at 
night.  General  Grant  and  Mrs.  Grant,  the  Emperor  and 
Empress  of  Brazil,  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales,  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  of  Teck,  Prince  Christian  and  the 
Princess  Helena,  the  Princess  Louise  and  the  Marquis  of 
Lome  and  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  were  present. 

On  the  2Sth,  Liverpool  again  honors  General  Grant 
with  a  grand  banquet.  Upwards  of  two  hundred  gentle- 
men, including  repi"esentatives  of  all  public  bodies  in  the 
town,  attended  the  banquet,  which  was  held  in  the  large 
ballroom  of  the  town  hall,  and  was  a  very  grand  affair. 
General  Grant,  who  was  in  the  uniform  of  a  major  general, 
was  received  with  the  greatest  enthusiasm.  He  sat  on 
the  right  of  the  Mayor.  Next  to  General  Grant  sat  Lieu- 
tenant General  Sir  Henry  de  Bathe,  commander  of  the 
forces  in  the  northern  district. 

The  Mayor,  proposing  General  Grant's  health,  spoke 
of  the  sterling  qualities  he  possessed  as  a  soldier,  which  had 
enabled  him  to  restore  peace  and  prosperity  to  his  country. 

General  Grant,  responding,  said  the  reception  he  encoun- 
tered in  Great  Britain  was  far  beyond  his  expectation,  and 
was  such  as  any  living  person  might  well  be  proud  of.  He 
believed,  however,  that  it  was  indicative  of  the  friendly 


52  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt'S 

relations  which  existed  between  two  peoples,  who  were  of 
one  kindred  blood  and  civilization.  He  hoped  that  friend- 
ship would  continue  to  be  cultivated  and  long  endure. 
Referring  to  some  remarks  relative  to  the  British  army,  he 
said  there  were  as  many  soldiers  now  at  Aldershott  as  in 
the  regular  army  of  the  United  States,  which  had  a  frontier 
of  thousands  of  miles;  but  if  necessary  the  United  States 
could  raise  volunteers,  and  he  and  Mr.  Fairchild  w^ere 
examples  of  what  those  volunteers  were. 

On  the  30th,  General  Grant  attended  a  dinner  given  by 
a  personal  friend  belonging  to  the  American  press,  at 
Grosvenor  Hotel.  The  company  numbered  fort}'^,  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  distinguished  journalists  of  the  London  press, 
and  authors.  There  were  no  speeches,  the  dinner  being 
strictly  a  social  and  private  one. 

On  the  3d  of  July,  a  deputation  of  forty  men,  each 
representing  a  different  trade,  and  representing  altogether 
about  one  million  English  workingmen,  waited  upon  Gen- 
eral Grant  at  Consul  General  Badeau's  house,  and  presented 
him  an  address,  w^elcoming  him  to  England,  and  assuring 
him  of  their  good  wishes  and  deep  regard  for  the  welfare 
and  progress  of  America,  where  British  workmen  had  al- 
ways found  a  welcome.  Impromptu  speeches  were  then 
made  by  various  members  of  the  deputation,  all  of  which 
were  extremely  cordial. 

General  Grant  replied  as  follow^s :  "  In  the  name  of 
my  country,  I  thank  you  for  the  address  you  have  pre- 
sented to  me.  I  feel  it  a  great  compliment  paid  my  gov- 
ernment and  one  to  me  personally.  Since  my  arrival  on 
British  soil  I  have  received  great  attentions,  which  were 
intended,  I  feel  sure,  in  the  same  way,  for  my  country.  I 
have  had  ovations,  free  hand-shakings,  presentations  from 
differen*"  classes,  from  the  government,  from  the  controlling 
authorities  of  cities,  and  have  been  received  in  the  cities  by 
the  populace,  but  there  has  been  no  reception  which  I  am 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  53 

prouder  of  than  this  to-day.  I  recognize  the  fact  that  what- 
ever there  is  of  greatness  in  the  United  States,  as  indeed  in  any 
otlier  country,  is  due  to  labor.  Tlie  laborer  is  the  author 
of  all  greatness  and  wealth.  NVithout  labor  there  would 
be  no  government,  or  no  leading  class,  or  nothing  to  pre- 
serve. With  us,  labor  is  regarded  as  highly  respectable. 
When  it  is  not  so  regarded,  it  is  because  man  dishonors 
labor.  We  recognize  that  labor  dishonors  no  man;  and,  no 
matter  what  a  man's  occuiDation  is,  he  is  eligible  to  fill  any 
post  in  the  gift  of  the  people;  his  occupation  is  not  consid- 
ered in  selecting,  whether  as  a  law  maker  or  as  an  executor 
of  the  law.  Now,  gentlemen,  in  conclusion,  all  I  can  do 
is  to  renew  my  thanks  for  ihe  address,  and  repeat  A\hat  I 
have  said  before,  that  I  have  received  nothing  from  any 
class  since  my  arrival  which  has  given  me  more  pleasure." 

After  the  speech  there  was  an  informal  exchange  of 
courtesies,  and  the  deputation  then  withdrew. 

In  the  evening,  a  banquet  was  given  by  the  United 
Service  Club.  The  Duke  of  Cambridge  presided,  having 
on  his  right  General  Grant  and  Lord  Hampton,  and  on  his 
left  Minister  Pierrepont  and  Lord  Strathnairn.  Admiral 
Sir  Charles  Eden  was  the  vice-president,  having  on  his 
right  Sir  George  Sartorios,  and  General  Sir  William 
Codington  on  his  left.  There  was  a  very  full  attendance 
of  guests. 

The  Duke  of  Cambridge  proposed  the  health  of  Gen- 
eral Grant.  The  General,  in  reply,  alluded  to  the  visit  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales  to  the  United  States.  He  said  he 
knew  from  all  his  friends,  as  well  as  of  his  own  personal 
knowledge,  that  His  Royal  Highness  was  received,  as  the 
son  of  England's  Queen,  with  the  sincerest  respect.  He 
thanked  the  company  for  their  hospitality,  which  was  one 
of  the  greatest  honors  he  had  received. 

On  the  4th,  a  reception  was  given  at  the  American 
Legation,  which  was  a  social  event  of  a  very  high  order,  and 


54  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

very  enjoyable  throughout.  It  lasted  from  four  until  seven 
o'clock.  Nearly  all  the  Americans  in  London,  estimated 
at  over  one  thousand,  called  during  that  time.  A  large 
silk  American  flag  hung  over  the  entrance,  and  the  interior 
was  beautifully  decorated  with  flowers.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Pierrepont,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  received  all  the  guests. 
The  reception  closed  with  the  singing  of  the  "  Star  Span- 
gled Banner  "  by  Miss  Abel,  an  American. 

On  the  5th,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  their  son,  and 
General  Badeau,  left  London  for  the  continent.  They  were 
accompanied  to  the  station  by  a  number  of  friends,  and  the 
parting  was  most  enthusiastic.  With  the  exception  of 
brief  stops  at  Tunbridge  and  Ashford,  there  was  nothing 
worthy  of  note. 

A  large  crowd  had  collected  at  the  Folkestone  station 
when  the  train  arrived,  and  as  General  Grant  alighted  he 
was  loudly  cheered.  The  Mayor's  carriage  was  in  waiting, 
and  the  party  were  dinven  to  the  town  hall.  Here  the 
Mayor  received  them  in  his  robes  of  ofiice,  surrounded  by 
the  members  of  the  town  council  and  a  large  number  of 
citizens.  As  the  clerk  to  the  corporation  read  the  address, 
the  whole  assemblage  remained  standing.  The  address 
recited  the  idea  of  honoring  the  General  for  his  deeds  in 
the  battle-field,  and  concluded  by  expressing  the  wish  that 
he  might  have  a  third  term  as  President  of  the  United 
States,  and  advancing  the  opinion  that  he  would.  In  his 
reply  the  ex-President  ignored  this.  He  thanked  them,  as 
he  said  he  did  all  their  countrymen,  for  their  kindness  and 
courtesy.  He  believed  it  would  be  to  the  mutual  interests 
of  the  two  great  English-speaking  nations  to  maintain  the 
friendly  relations  which  now  existed.  England  and 
America  must  lead  in  commerce  and  civilization.  He  also 
expressed  his  gratification  at  the  settlement  of  the  Alabama 
claims,  which  had  been  referred  to.  But  he  carefully 
avoided  any  allusion  to  politics. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  55 

The  reception  over,  the  party  started  at  once  for  the  pier, 
where  the  steamer  Vittoria  was  waiting  to  convey  them  to 
Ostend,  Belgium.  Tlie  American  flag  was  seen  flying 
among  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  in  honor  of  the  town's 
guest.  A  great  crowd  had  gathered  again  at  the  pier,  and 
cheered  loudly  as  the  Vittoria  left:  and  passed  out  into  the 
straits,  the  General  bowing  repeatedly  from  the  bridge 
of  the  steamer.  General  Grant's  stay  in  England  had  been 
made  pleasant  by  honors  which  were  extremely  gratifying 
to  Americans.  His  excellent  taste  in  ignoring  the  toady- 
ism of  the  Englishman  at  Folkestone,  shows  how  quickly 
the  General  could  resent  such  a  piece  of  impertinence,  and 
that  he  thought,  correctly,  that  foreigners  have  no  business 
with  our  politics. 


r 


CHAPTER  V. 


ON    THE    CONTINENT. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  Brussels,  Belgium,  at  six  o'clock 
on  the  evening  of  July  6,  and  proceeded  to  the  Bellevue  Hotel. 
No  official  reception  was  given  him,  as  it  was  understood 
that  he  was  traveling  incognito.  Within  an  hour  of  his 
arrival,  an  aide-de-camp  of  King  Leopold  visited  the  Gen- 
eral, conveying  from  his  royal  master  an  invitation  to  din- 
ner, and  placing  at  his  disposal  his  aides  and  the  carriage  of 
state.  In  the  evening  General  Grant  dined  with  ex-Minis- 
ter  Sanford.  Several  Belgian  functionaries  were  in  attend- 
ance at  the  board. 

On  the  Sth,  General  Grant  dined  with  the  King  and 
royal  family ;  all  the  high  officials  of  state  and  foreign  min- 
isters were  present.  King  Leopold  took  Mrs.  Grant  to 
dinner,  and  the  ex- President  had  the  honor  of  escorting  the 
Queen.  On  Sunday  the  King  paid  the  General  a  visit,  a 
step  whjich  is  considered  by  the  Belgians  as  being  a  great 
honor,  as  it  is  entirely  out  of  the  usual  course.  The  Gen- 
eral and  Mrs.  Grant  visited  the  King  and  Queen  in  the  after- 
noon. On  Monday  morning  all  the  foreign  ministers  in 
Brussels  called  on  the  General,  previous  to  his  departure. 
The  King's  aide-de-camp  and  members  of  the  American 
legation  accompanied  the  party  to  the  railway  station. 
During  General  Grant's  stay  he  was  treated  with  the  great- 
est distinction. 

On  the  9th,  General  Grant  arrived  at  Cologne,  and  was 
received  at  the  railway  station  by  the  American  Consul, 


TOUR    AROUND    TMK    WORLD.  57 

President  of  Police,  nnd  the  civil  and  military  governors  of 
the  city,  the  Emperor  liaving  commanded  that  every  atten- 
tion should  be  paid  to  their  honored  guest.  At  Cologne 
the  General  visited  several  churches  and  the  cathedral,  and 
made  an  excursion  over  the  suspension  bridge  to  Deutz, 
returning  by  the  bridge  of  boats.  In  the  evening  he  was 
serenaded  at  the  Hotel  du  Nord,  by  a  military  band. 

On  the  loth,  he  left  Cologne,  and  proceeded  up  the 
river  Rhine,  stopping  at  Bingen,  Coblentz  and  Weisbaden, 
reaching  Frankfort  on  the  12th,  where  a  grand  reception 
was  given  him  at  the  Palmer-garten;  the  burgomaster 
presided,  and  one  hundred  and  twent}'  guests  were  present. 
This  included  all  the  j^rominent  officials  of  the  town,  offi- 
cers of  the  garrison,  and  leading  citizens.  The  banquet 
hall  was  beautifully  illuminated  and  decorated.  After  the 
toasts  to  the  Emperor  and  President  Hayes  had  been  drunk 
and  duly  responded  to,  Henry  Seligman,  the  banker,  pro- 
posed the  health  of  General  Grant.  Mr.  Seligman,  in  giving 
the  toast,  made  a  few  appropriate  remarks,  in  the  course  of 
which  he  said  that  the  General  was  universally  honored  and 
esteemed.  General  Grant,  in  reply,  thanked  the  city  of 
Frankfort  for  the  confidence  it  placed  in  the  Union  during 
the  late  civil  war.  He  concluded  by  drinking  to  the  wel- 
fare and  prosperity  of  the  city.  At  the  conclusion  of  this 
short  speech,  the  General  was  given  a  magnificent  ovation. 
The  guests  rose  to  their  feet  and  cheered  lustily,  and  the 
crowd  outside,  numbering  six  thousand  people,  caught  up 
the  cheer,  and  were  enthusiastic  in  their  demonstrations  of 
welcome. 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  banquet,  a  grand  ball  was 
given,  at  which  the  elite  of  the  city  was  present.  Jessr 
Grant  opened  the  ball  with  an  American  lady. 

On  the  following  day.  General  Grant  visited  Hamburg, 
and  held  a  reception,  the  chief  burgomaster  presenting  the 
guests.     A  grand  concert  was  given  in  the  grounds  of  the 


58  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

zoological  garden  afterward,  which  was  attended  by  many 
thousands  of  people. 

On  the  16th,  General  Grant  spent  several  days  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Lucerne  and  Interlaken,  Switzerland, 
whence  he  made  excursions  to  the  mountains  in  the  vicin- 
ity. On  the  24th,  we  find  him  at  Berne,  Switzerland, 
where  he  was  received  by  the  President  of  the  Swiss  Con- 
federation. On  the  27th,  he  was  at  Geneva,  where  he  laid 
the  corner  stone  of  a  new  American  Protestant  church  in 
that  city.  Large  crowds  were  present,  and  hundreds  of 
American  flags  were  displayed  from  the  windows  of  citi- 
zens' houses.  The  authorities  of  the  city,  and  also  the 
English  and  American  clergymen  of  Geneva,  were  present. 
Speeches  complimentary  to  General  Grant  were  made  by 
M.  Carteret,  President  of  Geneva,  and  by  several  of  the 
principal  clergymen.  General  Grant  said,  in  replying  to 
the  toast  given  to  America,  that  the  greatest  honor  he  had 
received  since  landing  in  Europe  was  to  be  among  Amer- 
icans, and  in  a  republic,  and  in  a  city  where  so  great  a  serv- 
ice had  been  rendered  to  the  Americans  by  a  Swiss  citizen 
in  the  settlement  of  a  question  which  might  have  produced 
war,  but  which  left  no  rancor  on  either  side.  On  the  30th, 
the  General  left  Geneva  for  the  North  Italian  lakes,  thence 
to  Ragatz,  where  he  spent  several  days  for  rest  and  recuper- 
ation with  his  brother-in-law,  M.  J.  Cramer,  American 
Minister  to  Denmark. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  General  Grant  went  to  Pallanza, 
on  Lake  Maggiore;  thence  to  Lake  Como,  stopping  at 
Bellagio;  thence  to  Varese.  At  each  of  these  points  he 
was  received  with  great  enthusiasm,  his  stay  being  one 
grand  round  of  festivities,  each  city  seeming  to  vie  with  the 
other  in  the  hospitalities  offered.  At  Lake  Maggiore,  ad- 
dresses were  made  by  the  Mayor  and  an  officer  who  served 
under  General  Garibaldi.  General  Grant,  in  his  reply,  re- 
ferred to  the  exceeding  hospitality  he  had  received,  praised 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  59 

the  general  conduct  of  the  people  so  far  as  he  had  seen 
them,  expressed  his  delight  at  the  grand  and  lovely  scenes 
that  had  met  his  eye  at  every  turn  since  he  had  crossed  the 
Alps,  and  concluded  by  saying,  "  There  is  one  Italian  whose 
hand  1  wish  especially  to  shake,  and  that  man  is  General 
Garibaldi."  This  allusion  was  greeted  with  a  perfect  storm 
of  applause. 

On  the  iSth,  the  General  visited  Copenhagen,  where 
he  was  received  with  distinguished  honors,  and  at  Antwerp 
a  like  cordial  reception  was  given. 

On  the  25th,  he  returned  to  England,  having  made  a 
hurried  and  fatiguing  continental  tour,  where  he  rested, 
previous  to  accepting  the  urgent  and  flattering  invitation  to 
visit  Scotland. 

The  fact  that  General  Grant  is  named  Ulysses,  and 
that,  in  making  "  the  grand  tour,"  has  suggested  a  classic 
comparison  to  the  good-natured  jokers  of  the  obvious.  It 
seems,  too,  as  though  the  General  had  determined  to  keep 
up  the  character  of  the  wandering  king  of  Ithaca;  for  the 
heavy  English  journals,  after  slowly  lifting  their  eyebrows 
to  the  point  of  astonishment  that  Ulysses  the  Silent  could 
speak  at  all,  have  found  the  word  "  wise  "  to  apply  to  what 
he  did  utter.  Indeed,  one  of  them  believed  that  the  term 
silent  was  ironical,  and  as  proof  quoted  from  "  his  remark- 
able speech  "  that  sentence  about  fighting  it  out  on  a  certain 
line  if  it  took  all  summer.  Perhaps  if  we  use  a  society 
phrase,  and  say  that  General  Grant  has  been  "  happy"  in  his 
recent  after-dinner  utterances,  we  shall  come  nearer  the 
mark.  When  there  are  certain  unpleasant  topics  that  might 
be  touched  on,  it  is  "  happy  "  to  avoid  them  at  such  times; 
and  when  the  speaker  who  ignores  them  plunges  into  plati- 
tudes about  "  common  blood  and  kindred  peoples,"  he  may 
be  called  felicitous  when  he  is  only  politely  adroit.  In 
England,  for  instance,  the  General  kept  clear  of  blockade 
runners  and  Confederate  scrip,  and,  when  the  Alabama  was 


6o  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

forced  before  him,  only  touched  on  that  piratical  craft  as  a 
sort  of  blessing  in  disguise  to  both  peoples.  On  the  other 
hand,  he  was  overwhelmingly  unctuous  in  calling  the  En- 
glish our  blood  relations,  making  the  glasses  dance  on  the 
festive  board  with  the  thunderous  applause  he  evoked  from 
noble  lords  and  loft}'-  commoners. 

In  Frankfort,  however,  he  had  a  chance  to  say  a 
"  happy"  thing,  and  he  said  it.  In  Frankfort  they  bought 
our  bonds,  when  it  was  vital  to  the  nation  that  our  securi- 
ties should  find  purchasers.  To  be  sure,  they  made  a  good 
thing  of  it, for  they  bought  them  cheap;  but  England  and 
poor  generals  had  cheapened  them.  Hence  it  was  a  "  hap- 
py" thing  for  the  soldier  who  brought  our  "boys"  and  our 
bonds  "out  of  the  wilderness" — the  former  to  Richmond, 
and  the  latter  to  par  and  beyond  —  to  tell  the  Frankforters 
how  well  they  had  stood  by  the  Union  in  its  darkest  days. 
There  was  much  good  German  blood  spilled  in  the  cause 
of  the  Union,  so  that  his  hearers  were  aware  that  the  Gen- 
eral referred  to  heart-strings  as  well  as  purse-strings  in  his 
compliment  to  them.  So,  also,  at  Geneva,  his  compliment 
to  the  representative  whose  "casting  vote"  turned  the 
scales  in  the  Geneva  award  was  not  forgotten;  in  fact,  the 
General  seemed  to  be  in  a  "  happy  "  vein,  complimenting 
without  stint.  This  change,  or  rather  drawing  out  of  Gen- 
eral Grant's  thoughts,  will  surprise  none  more  than  his  inti- 
mate friends,  who  have  known  him  only  by  works,  not 
words. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


RETURN    TO    GREAT    BRITAIN. 

The  freedom  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh  was  presented  to 
General  Grant  on  the  31st  of  August.  He  left  London  in 
a  Pullman  car.  On  the  way  from  London  —  four  hundred 
miles —  the  scener}'  was  exceedingly  attractive.  All  through 
England  and  in  the  south  of  Scotland,  the  country  is  a 
perfect  garden,  and  only  when  you  get  among  the  chilly 
hills,  valleys  and  crags  of  northern  Scotland,  do  you  feel 
that  you  are  getting  into  the  open  country.  What  a  pity 
that  there  are  no  forests  to  cover  these  beautiful  and  historic 
mountains,  where  in  centuries  gone  by  the  horns  of  the 
leaders  summoned  the  clans  to  bloody  work! 

The  reception  given  to  General  Grant  as  each  station 
was  reached,  was  whole-souled  and  fully  meant  hospitality. 
At  Carlisle — the  dinner  stopping-place — at  Galashiels,  Mel- 
rose, Harwick,  and  a  number  of  smaller  towns  in  Scotland, 
there  were  expressions  of  joy  and  enthusiasm  that  reminded 
one  of  the  railroad  receptions  that  General  Grant  gets  at  the 
towns  of  Illinois  and  Ohio.  It  seemed  as  though  they  knew 
him  perfectly  well  —  his  face,  his  history,  etc.  —  for  they 
recognized  him  everywhere,  and  demanded  as  much  hand- 
shaking as  could  be  done  in  the  limited  time  the  train  was 
to  stay.  Then  the  cheers  and  hurrahs  always  sounded  in 
the  distance  above  the  whistle  of  the  locomotive.  Mrs. 
Grant  was  quite  cheerful  and  talkative.  She  looked  very 
much  better  than  when  she  left  Washington,  though  she 
said  she  was  always  in  good  health  there.     Washington 


6a  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

has  a  slightly  malarial  atmosphere,  and  the  complexion  of  a 
Washingtonian  changes  for  the  better  after  a  trip  to 
Europe.  She  enjoyed  her  European  trip.  She  said  her 
lines  of  association  there  had  always  fallen  in  pleasant 
places,  and  that  she  had  been  greatly  pleased  with  every 
acquaintance  she  made  in  Europe.  Mrs.  Grant  is  a  quiet, 
rather  reserved  lad}',  but  one  who  impresses  her  associates 
by  her  kind  nature,  her  broad  views  upon  the  subject  under 
discussion,  be  it  commonplace  or  important,  and  her  sensible 
ideas  of  life.  She  sprang  from  one  of  the  best  families  of 
the  Mississippi  Valley,  well  known  and  highly  respected 
since  a  hundred  years  and  more  ago,  and  her  early  training 
was  not  lost.  All  the  ladies  who  met  her  and  became  her 
acquaintances  at  the  White  House,  loved  her,  from  first  to 
last. 

The  freedom  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh  w^as  presented 
to  ex-President  Grant  by  Lord  Provost  Sir  James  Falshaw, 
in  Free  Assembly  Hall,  two  thousand  persons  being  pres- 
ent. In  reply  to  the  Lord  Provost's  speech.  General  Grant 
said: 

"  I  am  so  filled  with  emotion  that  I  scarcely  know  how 
to  thank  you  for  the  honor  conferred  upon  me  by  making 
me  a  burgess  of  this  ancient  city  of  Edinburgh.  I  feel 
that  it  is  a  great  compliment  to  me  and  to  my  country. 
Had  I  the  proper  eloquence,  I  might  dwell  somewhat  on 
the  history  of  the  great  men  you  have  produced,  on  the 
numerous  citizens  of  this  city  and  of  Scotland  who  have 
gone  to  America,  and  the  record  they  have  made.  We  are 
proud  of  Scotchmen  as  citizens  of  America.  They  make 
good  citizens  of  our  country,  and  they  find  it  profitable  to 
themselves.  I  again  thank  you  for  the  honor  conferred 
upon  me." 

On  September  ist.  General  Grant  and  party  visited  Tay 
Bridge.  One  of  the  most  striking  features  of  the  view 
obtained  from  the  deck  of  the  little  steamer  is  that  of  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  63 

bridge  itself,  which,  as  seen  from  some  little  distance,  com- 
bines massiveness  with  airiness  of  structure,  impressing  one 
even  more  than  the  almost  fairy-like  span  of  the  Menai 
tubular  bridge,  or  the  larger  and  equally  reputed,  though 
perhaps  less  elegant,  viaduct  across  the  Hollandsche  Diep. 

A  few  minutes'  sailing  brought  the  party  to  VVormi 
Pier,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  and  immediately  under 
the  first  span  of  Mr.  Bouch's  grand  structure.  At  this 
place  Admiral  Maitland  Dougal,  Mr.  Matthew  McDougal, 
United  States  Consul  at  Dundee,  and  ex-Provost  Ewan, 
Dundee,  were  in  waiting  to  do  honor  to  the  General,  not  to 
speak  of  a  numerous  concourse  of  the  public,  comprising 
seemingly  most  of  the  workmen  connected  with  the  bridge, 
as  well  as  many  persons  from  the  neighboring  villages. 
After  landing.  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and  some  others 
were  conducted  to  one  of  the  rooms  in  the  contractor's 
offices,  where  Mr.  Grothe,  the  resident  engineer,  explained, 
with  the  aid  of  models  and  diagrams,  the  manner  in  which 
the  large  piers  of  the  bridge  were  constructed,  mentioning 
first  that  the  bridge  was  designed  on  what  is  known  as  the 
lattice  girder  principle,  and  then  stating  that  the  piers  were 
built  on  shore,  floated  out  between  two  barges  to  the  de- 
sired position  m  the  river,  sunk  to  a  suitable  foundation,  and 
then  brought  up  to  high  water  mark.  By  means  of  an- 
other working  model,  the  manner  in  which  the  girders  were 
transported  from  the  shore  was  illustrated,  it  being  shown 
that  the  tide  was  the  motive  power  by  which  masses  of 
iron  work  weighing  as  much  as  two  hundred  tons  were 
moved.  The  method  by  which  these  girders  were  raised 
from  the  river  to  the  required  height  of  eighty-eight  feet 
above  high  water  mark,  through  the  agency  of  hydraulic 
apparatus,  was  also  explained. 

Describing  the  work  generally,  Mr.  Grothe  said  there 
were  in  all  eighty-five  spans,  thirteen  of  which,  over  the 
navigable  part  of  the  river,  were  each  two  hundred  and 


64  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

forty-five  feet  in  length,  and  carried  nearly  two  hundred 
tons  weight,  while  the  smaller  ones  on  either  side  of  the 
channel  were  from  sixty-seven  to  one  hundred  and  forty- 
five  feet  long.  It  was  further  stated  that  considerable 
progress  had  been  inade  with  the  works  during  the  present 
season,  and  especially  during  the  last  month,  nine  spans  of 
an  aggregate  weight  of  more  than  nine  hundred  tons  hav- 
ing been  lifted  and  fixed  in  then-  places  within  the  latter 
period  —  a  feat  which  has  been  accomplished  by  almost  in- 
cessant work.  In  concluding  his  remarks,  Mr.  Grothe 
stated  that  in  the  winter  the  shortness  of  the  day  had  of 
course  been  found  very  much  against  the  progress  of  the 
work,  and  that  to  get  over  this  difficulty  there  were  used 
powerful  electric  lights,  the  currents  for  which  were  gener- 
ated by  magneto-electric  machines  driven  by  a  four-horse- 
power engine.  It  was  added  that  the  bridge  was  nearly 
completed,  all  the  spans  up  forming  a  continuous  line,  and 
the  fixing  of  timber  and  laying  of  rails  on  the  top  at  pres- 
ent actively  carried  on. 

On  the  7th  September,  General  Grant  was  presented  with 
the  freedom  of  the  city  of  Wick,  and,  in  accepting,  said  : 
**  During  the  eight  years  of  my  Presidency  it  was  my  only 
hope,  which  I  am  glad  to  say  was  realized,  that  all  differ- 
ences between  the  two  nations  should  be  healed  in  a  manner 
honorabl-e  to  both.  In  my  desire  for  that  result  it  was  my 
aim  to  do  what  was  right,  irrespective  of  any  other  consid- 
eration whatever.  During  all  the  negotiations,  I  felt  the 
importance  of  maintaining  friendly  relations  between  the 
great  English  speaking  peoples,  which  I  believe  to  be  essen- 
tial to  the  maintenance  of  peace  and  principle  throughout 
the  world." 

On  the  8th,  at  Inverness,  General  Grant  was  presented 
with  the  freedom  of  the  city,  and  a  great  reception  given 
him. 

Ex-President  Grant  received  the  freedom  of  the  city  of 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  65 

Glasgow  on  the  13th.  Replying  to  the  address  of  the  Lord 
Provost,  he  said  that  he  would  ever  remember  the  day,  and 
when  back  in  America  would  refer  with  pride  to  his  visit  to 
Glasgow.  He  was  so  much  a  citizen  of  Scotland  that  it 
would  be  a  serious  question  where  he  would  vote.  He 
thanked  the  Lord  Provost  for  his  kind  words  and  the  audi- 
ence for  its  welcome.  The  parchment  was  contained  in  a 
gold  casket.  The  ceremony  was  witnessed  by  a  large  crowd, 
and  the  General  was  enthusiastically  cheered.  A  banquet  in 
his  honor  was  given  in  the  evening,  but  was  of  a  private 
character. 

The  reception  of  General  Grant  in  Scotland  was  hearty 
and  continuously  enthusiastic.  There  was  not  a  day  since 
the  General  came  to  Scotland  that  he  was  not  overwhelmed 
with  kindnesses. 

The  enthusiasm  of  the  Scotch  people  and  the  great  atten- 
tion shown  to  General  Grant  have  a  double  significance. 
The  people  of  Scotland  sympathized  with  the  North  during  the 
civil  war,  and  always  rejoiced  when  Grant  or  his  generals 
won  a  victory.  They  have  been  curious  to  see  the  great  man 
they  have  talked  so  much  about,  and  take  great  pride  in  the 
fact  that  he  is  of  Scotch  descent.  Hence  the  magnificent 
ovations  at  Edinburgh,  Dundee,  Melrose,  Ayr,  Glasgow, 
the  Trossachs,  and  all  the  places  at  which  he  stopped. 

The  finest  and  most  enthusiastic  reception  was  given  at 
Glasgow.  An  immense  hall,  accommodating  several  thou- 
sand persons,  was,  all  but  places  for  four  hundred  specially 
invited  guests,  thrown  open  to  the  public.  The  cheering 
was  so  general  and  continuous  that  the  ceremonies  could 
only  with  difficulty  be  heard.  At  night  the  grand  banquet 
at  corporation  hall  was  a  splendid  affair,  embracing  in  the 
vietiu  the  viands  and  wines  that  make  the  best  dinner  Scot- 
land could  furnish.  Even  tropical  delicacies  were  in  profu- 
sion, and  the  wines  were  exceptionally  fine  and  in  great  vari- 
5 


66  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

ety.     Several  toasts  were  given,  and  speeches  followed  up  to 
eleven  o'clock. 

At  this  banquet  the  Lord  Provost  announced  that  there 
were  no  reporters  present,  and  the  editors  there  were 
expected  to  let  the  speeches  pass  without  comment,  in  order 
that  everybody  could  feel  perfectly  free  in  speaking.  General 
Grant,  on  this  account,  probably,  made  the  longest  speech  of 
his  life,  and  the  Lord  Provost  was  finally,  at  the  end  of  the 
feast,  persuaded  to  yield  his  position  against  newspaper  enter- 
prise. 

The  speech  of  General  Grant  was  brought  about  by  a 
speech  of  Mr.  Anderson,  M.  P.,  of  Glasgow,  wherein  he 
charged,  turning  to  General  Grant,  that  the  United  States 
had  gained  a  victory  over  Great  Britain  in  the  creation  of  the 
Geneva  arbitration.  However,  he  said,  Great  Britain  had 
agreed  to  the  Washington  treaty,  and  while  disappointed 
with  the  result  at  Geneva,  had  stood  manfully  by  it.  In  view 
of  this,  and  the  fact  that  the  United  States  had  completed 
the  distribution  of  the  award,  and  had  some  $8, 000,000  left 
after  all  claims  had  been  satisfied,  he  would  be  pleased  to  see 
the  government  return  that  amount  in  the  interests  of  con- 
cord and  thorough  amity.  This  was  said  in  a  half  earnest, 
half  joking  way,  but  was  met  with  "hear,  hear,"  all  along 
the  tables. 

General  Grant  in  reply  said  that  he  had  a  great  deal 
to  do  with  the  nesfotiatlons  concerninsr  the  Washineton 
treaty,  and  that  he  had  alwaj^s  felt  that  our  government  had 
yielded  too  much  to  Great  Britain  in  the  matter.  He  was 
determined,  however,  from  the  first,  that,  if  possible,  the 
experiment  of  peaceful  arbitration  should  prevail.  It  was 
his  ambition  to  live  to  see  all  oatiocal  disputes  settled  in 
this  way.  "  I  am  called  a  man  of  war,"  said  he,  "  but  I 
never  was  a  man  of  war.  Though  I  entered  the  army  at 
an  early  age,  I  got  out  of  it  whenever  I  found  a  chance  to 


TOUR  AROUXD  THE  WORLD.  6'J 

do  SO  creditably.     I  was  always  a  imn  of  peace,  and  I  shall 
always  continue  of  that  mind.     Though  I  may  not  live  to 
see  the  general  settlement  of  national  disputes  by  arbitra- 
tion, it  will  not  be  very  many  years  before  that  system  of 
settlement   will    be    adopted,   and    the    immense   standing 
armies  that  are  depressing  Europe  by  their  great  expense 
will  be  disbanded,  and  the  arts  of  war  almost  forgotten  in  the 
general  devotion  of  the  people  to  the  development  of  peace- 
ful industries.     I  want  to  see,  and  I  believe  I  will,  Great 
Britain,   the   United  States  and  Canada  joined  with  com- 
mon purj-jose   in  the  advance  of  civilization,  an  invincible 
community  of  English-speaking  nations  that  all  the  world 
beside  could  not  conquer,"     The  General   went  on  in  this 
vein  for  some  time,  and  finally  again  touched  the  Alaliama- 
claims  question.     He  said :     "  There  was  one  point  in  con- 
nection with  that  matter  that  I  was  glad  we  yielded  —  that 
was  the  indirect  damage  claim.     I  was  always  opposed  to 
it,   because    I    feared    the   future    consequences    of  such  a 
demand.     In  any  future  arbitration  we  would  have  been 
placed   at   a  great  disadvantage  by  its  allowance.     After 
that  was  settled  we  made  our  other  demands,  you  made 
yours.     It  was  a  long  time  before  the  Joint  High  Commis- 
sion came  together,  but  each  side  j-ielded  here  a  bit  and 
there  a  bit,  until   about  as  good  a  treaty  as  we  could  expect 
to  get  was  completed.     Mr.  Anderson  says  many  of  the 
people  of  Great  Britain  believe  we  got  the  best  of  the 
bargain.     I  can  assure  you  that  we  did  not  come  out  of  the 
discussion    as    much   benefited    as  we   should    have  been. 
Many  of  our  people  were  quite  incensed,  and  fought  the 
confirmation  of  the  treaty,  claiming  that  its  terms  were  not 
broad  enough   to  cover  the  losses  of  local  interests,  but  a 
very  large  majority  determined  to  stand  by  it  in  the  inter- 
ests of  peace  and  manly  dealing  with  friends.     We  yielded 
more  than  we  intended  to  yield,  but  had  gone  so  far  into 
the  business  of  doing  what  we  advocated  that  nine-tenths 


68  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRAKt'S 

of  our  people  had  no  desire  to  recede.     We  did  not  want 
war,  or  even  a  new  arbitration.     We  had  been  satisfied 
with  the  former,  and  the  hitter  meant  delay.     We  wanted 
the  question  settled  peacefully,  at  once  and  forever.     As  to 
the   $S,ooo,ooo   surplus    Mr.    Anderson    mentions,  I  will 
explain   that  briefly.      After   the   $15,500,000  awarded  at 
Geneva  was  paid  by  Great  Britain,  the  matter  of  its  dis- 
tribution was  presented  to  Congress.     It  became  necessary 
to  distribute  it  under  the  terms  of  the  treaty,  and  it  was 
found  that  if  the  insurance  companies  which  had  received 
war  premiums  were  admitted  to  participation  in  the  sum,  it 
would  not  be  large  enough  to  go  around.     So  they  and 
other    parties    were    excluded.      Congress    will    legislate 
further  in  the  matter,  and  the  money  will  be  distributed  to 
rightful  claimants,  so  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  discuss 
the   question    of    returning    it    to    Great   Britain."       The 
General    explained    the    workings    of  the    system    of  dis- 
tributing the  money,  details  of  fact  that  are  familiar  to  all 
Americans.    We  cannot  reproduce  his  speech  in  full,  because 
lead   pencils    and    note   books  were   prohibited.     But  the 
above,  with  expressive  remarks  touching  his  magnificent 
receptions  in  Scotland,  and  the  renewed  expressions  of  good 
feeling  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  is  his 
speech  in  carefully  prepared  substance.     At  the  end  of  it, 
the   entire   party,   of  perhaps    two    hundred   persons,    ap- 
plauded to  the  echo,  and  in  this  applause  Mr.  Anderson 
was  one  of  the  most  ardent  participants. 

General  Grant's  visit  to  Newcastle-on-Tyne,  on  the 
3ist,  was  the  occasion  of  a  most  enthusiastic  and  remarkable 
demonstration.  During  the  day  the  visitors  visited  the 
Exchange  and  other  places  of  interest  in  Newcastle. 
There  were  numerous  banners  along  the  route,  and  large 
crowds  of  spectators.  In  the  Exchange,  General  Grant 
received  an  address  from  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and, 
replying,  thanked  the  large  and  enthusiastic  audience  for  its 


TOUR  AROUXD  THE  WORLD,  69 

kind  reception,  which  was  highly  gratifying  to  him  and  the 
American  people,  who  would  accept  it  as  a  token  of  friend- 
ship between  the  two  nations  —  he  could  not  say  two  peo- 
ples, for  they  were  really  one,  having  a  common  destiny, 
which  would  be  brilliant  in  proportion  to  their  friendship. 
He  referred  to  the  honorable  settlement  of  all  differences 
between  England  and  America,  and  said  they  ought  not 
only  keep  peace  with  each  other,  but  with  all  the  world, 
and  by  their  example  stop  the  wars  which  are  now  devasta- 
ting Europe,  The  speech  was  loudly  cheered.  General 
Grant  and  the  corporation  then  proceeded  down  the  Tyne 
in  a  steamer,  which  was  saluted  with  guns  from  almost 
every  factory  on  the  banks,  every  available  spot  on  which 
was  crowded  with  people.  General  Grant  stood  on  the 
bridge  of  the  steamer  during  the  greater  part  of  the  voyage, 
bowing  in  response  to  repeated  cheers.  The  steamer 
stopped  at  Jarrow  and  Tynemouth,  at  both  of  which  places 
the  municipal  authorities  presented  most  cordial  addresses. 
The  ceremony  was  witnessed  by  large  and  enthusiastic 
crowds.  General  Grant  made  suitable  replies,  of  similar 
tenor  to  his  Newcastle  speech.  At  Tynemouth  he  said  he 
had  that  day  seen  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  people 
leave  their  homes  and  occupations  to  manifest  friendship 
to  America.  The  ex-President  held  a  reception  at  New- 
castle in  the  eveninsr. 

A  great  demonstration  of  the  workmen  of  Northum- 
berland and  Durham  was  held  on  the  town  moor  of  New- 
castle in  honor  of  General  Grant.  Twenty-two  trade 
societies  participated  in  a  procession,  which  occupied  twenty 
minutes  in  passing  a  given  point.  The  number  of  persons 
present  on  the  moor  was  estimated  at  from  forty  to  fifty 
thousand.  The  demonstration  had  no  precedent  since 
the  great  political  meetings  at  the  time  of  the  Reform 
Agitation.  Mr.  Thomas  Burt,  member  of  Parliament  for 
Morpeth,  presented  an  eulogistic  address  to  General  Grant, 


70  GENERAL    V.    ».    GKAXT  S 

who  said  he  thanked  the  workingmen  for  their  very  wel- 
come address,  and  thought  this  reception  was  the  most 
honorable  he  coukl  meet  with.  Alhiding  to  what  Mr. 
Burt  had  said  concerning  the  late  civil  war,  General  Grant 
declared  he  had  always  been  an  advocate  of  peace,  but  when 
war  was  declared  he  went  to  the  war  for  the  cause  which 
he  believed  to  be  right,  and  fought  to  the  best  of  his  ability 
to  secure  peace  and  safety  to  the  nation.  In  regard  to  the 
relations  between  America  and  England,  the  General  said 
that  friendship  now  existed  between  the  two  countries, 
which  he  fully  believed  was  increasing,  and  which  would, 
in  common  with  industry  and  civilization,  increase  in  the 
future. 

On  the  same  day  the  Mayor  and  Town  Council  of 
Gateshead  presented  the  ex-President  with  a  congratulatory 
address.  General  Grant  expressed  pleasure  at  his  enthusi- 
astic reception  in  all  the  towns  in  the  North  of  England, 
and  said  he  was  glad  the  good  feeling  between  England 
and  America  was  warmer  to-day  than  it  had  ever  been. 
A  banquet  was  given  in  honor  of  General  Grant  in  the 
evening,  by  the  Mayor  of  Newcastle.  In  response  to  a 
toast  to  his  health,  the  General  said  his  reception  in  New- 
castle exceeded  anything  he  had  expected,  and  had  been 
the  warmest  and  best  he  had  had  or  could  have  had. 

General  Grant  was  met  at  Sunderland  railway  station 
by  the  Mayor  and  Messrs.  Gourley  and  Burt,  members  of 
Parliament.  The  day  was  observed  as  almost  a  general 
holiday.  Nearly  ten  thousand  members  of  trade  and 
friendly  societies  marched  in  procession.  General  Grant 
was  present  at  the  laying  of  the  foundation  stone  of  the 
library  and  museum.  Replying  to  an  address  of  the  friendly 
and  trade  societies,  General  Grant  said  he  would  simply 
renew  what  he  had  said  relative  to  the  way  in  which  labor 
was  regarded  in  the  United  States,  and  the  way  in  which 
he  personally  regarded  it. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  >Jl 

At  Leamington,  Warwick,  a  grand  reception  was  given 
General  Grant,  and  participated  in  by  the  Mayor  and  lead- 
ing citizens. 

On  arriving  at  Sheffield,  on  the  26th,  General  Grant 
was  received  at  the  railway  station  by  the  Mayor  and  cor- 
poration. A  procession  then  formed  to  the  Cutlers'  Hall, 
where  congratulatory  addresses  were  presented  by  the  Cor- 
porated  Cutlers'  Company  and  the  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
to  which  General  Grant  briefly  replied,  referred  to  the 
American  tariff,  and  reminded  his  hearers  that  the  United 
States  had  to  raise  money  to  pay  olF  the  great  debt  incurred 
by  the  war.  The  revenue  from  imports  was  ^'egai'dcd  solely 
as  the  means  of  attaining  that  end.  If  the  United  States 
were  to  abolish  the  revenue  from  imports,  foreign  bond- 
holders would  very  soon  cry  out  when  their  interest  was 
not  forthcoming.  He  added :  "We  get  along  well  enough 
with  the  payment  of  our  debt,  and  will  compete  with  you 
in  3'^our  manufactui-es  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  The 
more  of  your  merchants  and  mechanics  that  goto  America, 
the  bettor.  Nothing  pleases  us  more  than  the  immigration 
of. the  industry  and  intelligence  of  this  community.  We 
have  room  for  all,  and  will  try  to  treat  you  as  you  have 
treated  me  to-day."     The  General  was  loudly  cheered. 

The  following  evening  a  grand  banquet  was  given  in 
his  honor  by  the  Maj-or  and  corporation  of  Sheffield.  The 
proceedings  were  most  enthusiastic  and  cordial. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  Stratford-on-Avon  on  the  28th, 
and  met  with  a  brilliant  reception.  His  visit  was  made  the 
occasion  of  a  festival,  in  which  the  whole  town  took  part. 
The  houses  were  decorated  with  flags,  among  which  the 
American  colors  were  conspicuous.  The  stars  and  stripes 
were  displayed  from  the  Town  Hall  and  the  Mayor's  resi- 
dence. The  Mayor  and  members  of  the  corporation  re- 
ceived the  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  who  were  accompanied 


72  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

by  General  Badeau,  at  the  railway  station,  and  escorted 
them  to  Shakespeare's  birthplace.  Thence  the  party  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Museum,  the  church,  Anne  Hathaway's  cot- 
tage, and  other  places  of  interest. 

The  distingnij^hed  visitors  were  subsequently  entertained 
at  a  public  lunch  in  the  Town  Hall.  A  toast  to  the  health 
of  General  Grant  was  proposed  and  drank  with  cheers, 
and  he  was.  presented  with  a  very  cordial  address,  enclosed 
in  a  casket  made  from  the  wood  of  the  mulberry  tree 
planted  by  Shakespeare.  The  General,  replying  to  the 
toast,  spoke  most  heartily  of  the  welcome  given  him.  He 
-declared  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  him  to  leave 
England  without  visiting  the  birthplace  and  home  of 
Shakespeare.  He  pointed  to  the  numerous  American 
Shakespearian  societies  as  proof  of  the  honor  paid  the  poet 
;in  the  United  States. 

General  Grant  and  wife  spent  several  days  visiting  their 
'  daughter,  Mrs.  Sartoris,  at  Southampton. 

On  the  6th  October,  the  corporation  of  the  city  received 
him,  presenting  a  complimentary  address.  At  Torquay, 
Mr.  Alfred  D.  Jessup,  of  Philadelphia,  gave  a  brilliant  re- 
ception, the  leading  residents  and  noblemen  of  Torquay 
■and  vicinity  being  present. 

On  the  1 6th,  General  Grant  and  party  visited  Birming- 
ham. On  their  arrival,  they  were  received  by  the  Mayor, 
and  driven  to  the  Town  Hall,  where  the  Town  Council,  a 
deputation  of  workingmen,  and  the  Peace  Society,  pre- 
sented the  General  with  addresses,  which  he  briefly  ac- 
knowledged. He  was  the  guest  of  Mr.  Chamberlain, 
M.  P.  The  following  evening  General  Grant  was  enter- 
tained at  a  banquet,  the  Mayor  presiding.  After  the  health 
of  the  Queen  v^as  drank,  the  Mayor  proposed  that  of  the 
President  of  the  United  States,  as  a  potentate  all  should 
honor.     This  was  received  with  due  honor  by  the  company. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  75 

Mr.  Chamberlain,  M.  P.,  then  proposed  the  health  of  ex- 
President  Grant  in  a  happy  speech,  complimentary  to  the 
distinguished  guest  and  his  countrymen. 

General  Grant,  in  response,  referring  to  the  last  speak- 
er's allusion  to  the  prompt  disbandment  of  the  army  after 
the  civil  war,  said :  "  We  Americans  claim  so  much  per- 
sonal independence  and  general  intelligence  that  I  do  not 
believe  it  possible  for  one  man  to  assume  any  more  author- 
ity than  the  constitution  and  laws  give  him."  As  to  the  re- 
marks that  had  been  made  as  to  the  benefits  which  would 
accrue  to  America  by  the  establishment  of  free  trade,  the 
General  said  he  had  a  kind  of  recollection  that  Enofland 
herself  had  a  protective  tariff  until  her  manufactures  were 
established.  American  manufactures  were  rapidly  pro- 
gressing, and  America  was  thus  becoming  a  great  free 
trade  nation.  [Laughter.]  The  General  then  warmly 
thanked  the  company  for  the  reception  they  had  given 
him. 

General  Grant  found  the  labor  of  accepting  the  hospi- 
tality of  his  English  friends  more  arduous  than  the  cares 
of  State.  It  had,  in  fact,  become  so  great  a  tax  upon  his 
health  that  from  the  first  of  October  he  had  determined  to 
retire  to  private  life,  and  that  the  first  thing  he  would  do 
would  be  to  avail  himself  of  the  courtesy  extended  by  the 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  to  visit  the  Mediterranean  in  one 
of  the  vessels  of  the  European  squadron,  and  spend  some 
time  in  the  waters  of  Italy. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


GRANT    IN    PARIS. 

Ex-President  Grant,  accompanied  by  his  wife  and  son, 
left  London  for  Paris  on  the  morning  of  October  24,  1877. 
On  the  arrival  of  the  General  and  party  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion in  Charing  Cross,  to  take  the  train  for  Folkestone,  he 
was  greeted  by  a  large  crowd  of  Americans  and  English- 
men, who  gave  him  a  hearty  cheer  as  he  stepped  out  of  his 
carriage.  A  special  train  was  in  waiting  to  convey  the  dis- 
tinguished party.  The  large  space  in  front  of  the  hotel 
and  station,  extending  through  to  Trafalgar  square,  was 
filled  with  vehicles  and  pedestrians.  After  considerable 
hand-shaking  in  the  waiting-room,  and  lively  greetings  on 
the  platform.  Sir  Edward  Watkin,  the  chairman  of  the 
Southeastern  Railway  Company,  being  in  attendance,  he 
and  his  guests  boarded  the  train,  which  moved  off  precisely 
at  ten  o'clock.  After  a  pleasant  run  of  about  two  hours 
the  train  arrived  at  Folkestone,  where  General  Grant  was 
met  at  the  wharf  by  the  Mayor  and  members  of  the  Com- 
mon Council;  and  fully  two  thousand  of  the  inhabitants  of 
this  old  Kentish  town  welcomed  the  ex-President  with 
loud  cheers.  The  General  at  once  went  on  board  the  spe- 
cial yacht  Victoria,  accompanied  by  the  Herald  correspond- 
ent. Sergeant  Gazelee,  and  one  or  two  other  officials,  these 
being  the  only  guests.  As  the  trim-looking  yacht,  with 
the  American  flag  flying  at  its  fore,  left  the  chalk  cliffs  of 
old  England,  the  General  stood  upon  the  bridge  and  waved 
his  hat,  responsive  to  the  cheers  and  adieus  from  the  shore.. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  75 

The  sea  was  calm,  with  only  a  gentle  swell,  and  a  fine 
summer  yachting  breeze  prevailed.  The  General  paced 
the  deck,  enjoying  his  cigar  and  studying  the  interesting 
points  and  scenery  along  the  majestic  cliffs  on  the  south- 
eastern coast,  where  William  the  Conquerer  landed  and 
fourrht  the  battle  of  Hastings.  On  nearing  the  French 
coast  he  beheld  the  sunny  hills  and  shores  of  the  memora- 
ble site  of  Napoleon's  Boulogne  camp,  where  the  Auster- 
litz  army  so  long  prepared  for  the  invasion  of  England. 

The  Victoria  arrived  at  the  Boulogne  wharf  at  a  quar- 
ter to  two  o'clock.  A  large  crowd  of  Frenchmen,  who  had 
been  advised  of  the  arrival  oi  the  grand  guerrier  Americain^ 
was  in  attendance,  and  received  the  guests  with  a  hearty  greet- 
ing. On  entering  the  special  train,  the  sub-Prefect  of  the 
Department  met  and  was  mtroduced  to  the  General.  In 
the  name  of  the  Marshal-President  and  of  the  French  peo- 
ple, he  welcomed  him  to  the  shores  of  France. 

The  General  expressed  his  warm  acknowledgments, 
saying  he  had  long  cherished  the  wish  to  visit  France,  and 
he  was  delighted  with  the  present  opportunity.  M.  Hoguet- 
Grandsire,  the  Senator  representing  the  Department  of  the 
Pas  de  Calais,  also  bade  him  welcome  in  a  brief  address, 
full  of  sympathy  and  kindly  feeling. 

After  a  long  delay,  somewhat  in  contrast  to  the  prompt- 
ness of  the  English  railroads,  the  train  started  for  Paris. 
On  the  way  the  General  studied  closely  the  scenery  of  the 
lovely  country  along  the  route,  noted  the  principal  indus- 
trial sections,  and  especially  observed  the  wonderful  agri- 
cultural resources  of  the  country. 

General  Grant  spoke  a  great  deal  about  his  reception 
in  England ;  that  it  had  been  unvarying  in  warmth,  and,  as 
to  the  hospitality  of  the  people  there,  nothing  could  be 
more  kind,  considerate  and  gracious.  Everywhere  he  had 
experienced,  both  in   official  and  private  circles,  courtesy 


^6  GENERAL    V.    S.    GRANT'S 

and  respect.     At  Amiens  General  Grant  quietly  partook  of 
a  dish  of  cousomme. 

As  the  train  neared  Paris  the  moon  rose,  and  the  Gen- 
eral curiously  studied  the  prominent  features  of  the  great 
French  capital.  They  reached  the  station  at  a  quarter  to 
eight  o'clock.  Generals  Noyes  and  Torbert  entered  the 
car,  accompanied  by  the  Marquis  d'Abzac,  first  Aide-de- 
Camp  of  the  Marshal-President,  the  official  whose  duty  it 
was  to  introduce  ambassadors. 

In  the  name  of  the  President  of  the  French  Republic, 
the  Aide-de-Camp  tendered  General  Grant  a  cordial  wel- 
come. In  reply,  the  General  thanked  the  Marshal,  saying 
he  anticipated  great  pleasure  and  interest  from  his  visit  to 
France.  Generals  Noyes  and  Torbert  greeted  him  warmly. 
The  party  had  borne  the  journey  splendidly,  none  of  them 
showing  the  least  fatigue. 

Among  the  Americans  awaiting  the  arrival  of  General 
Grant  at  the  station,  in  the  company  of  the  Minister,  were 
General  Meredith  Read,  from  Greece;  ex-Minister  Part- 
ridge, Admiral  Worden,  the  bankers  Seligman,  Winthrop 
and  Munroe;  Dr.  Johnson,  Dr.  Warren,  and  the  representa- 
tives of  the  leading  New  York  journals. 

A  richly  carpeted  salon  was  prepared  at  the  station  for 
the  reception  of  the  distinguished  party.  The  ladies  of  the 
party,  conducted  by  General  Torbert,  passed  through  this 
salon  on  their  way  to  the  carriages.  A  splendid  bouquet 
was  presented  to  Mrs.  Grant  by  a  French  journalist  on  the 
way.  General  Grant  followed,  leaning  on  the  arm  of  Min- 
ister Noyes.  As  soon  as  he  appeared  in  the  crowded  salon^ 
several  rounds  of  hearty  cheers  were  given,  and  a  number 
of  people  were  presented  to  him. 

The  party  then  entered  carriages,  in  company  with 
General  Noyes  and  the  Marshal's  Aide-de-Camp  and  intro- 
ducer of  ambassadors.     They  drove  to  the  Hotel  Bristol, 


TOUR  AROUND  1  HE  WORLD.  77 

where  a  handsome  suite  of  rooms  had  been  engaged  for 
them.  After  a  quiet  dinner,  General  Grant  smoked  a  cigar 
and  retired  early. 

The  following  morning  opened  dismally.  Rain  fell  in 
torrents,  and  there  seemed  no  prospect  of  its  cessation.^ 
During  the  morning  General  Grant  called  upon  his  bank- 
ers, Messrs.  Drexel,  Harjes  &  Co.  Upon  his  return,  a  mul- 
titude of  visitors,  including  diplomatists,  ambassadors  and 
Americans,  began  to  arrive,  and  continued  to  come  until 
noon.  The  most  eminent  men  of  France  were  among  the 
callers.  At  two  o'clock,  General  Grant,  wife  and  son,  with 
Minister  Noyes,  drove  to  the  Elysee,  through  a  pouring 
rain.  President  MacMahon,  the  Duchess  of  Magenta,  and 
the  Duke  Decazes,  received  the  General  most  cordially. 
The  Duchess  did  everything  in  her  power  to  render  the 
occasion  agreeable. 

General  Grant  wore  plain  evening  dress,  calling  upon 
the  official  head  of  the  French  people  simply  as  any  Amer- 
ican citizen,  properly  introduced,  might. 

President  MacMahon  said  that  he  was  truly  glad  to 
welcome  so  eminent  a  soldier  and  citizen  to  France. 

In  brief,  the  ex-President  of  the  United  States  replied 
that  the  opportunity  of  expressing  to  the  chief  magistrate 
of  France  the  friendly  sentiments  entertained  throusfhout 
the  length  and  breadth  of  America  toward  the  French 
people  was  equally  pleasing  to  him. 

The  interview  was  entirely  informal  and  exceedingly 
cordial.  President  MacMahon  extended  and  General  Grant 
accepted  an  invitation  to  dine  at  the  Elysee  on  the  Thurs- 
day following. 

At  four  o'clock  the  committee  of  resident  Americans 
called  to  invite  General  Grant  and  family  to  a  grand  ban- 
quet to  be  given  in  his  honor  by  the  American  residents  of 
Paris,  upon  any  date  the  General  might  see  fit  to  appoint. 
General  Grant  named  November  6,  thanking  the  commit- 


^8  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

tee  for  the  honor  conferred  upon  him  by  his  own  country- 
men in  a  foreign  land.  Mucli  agreeable  conversation  fol- 
lowed. 

In  the  evening  General  Grant,  accompanied  by  a  per- 
sonal friend,  took  a  long  walk  around  the  Tuilleries,  Palais 
Royal,  Place  de  la  Concord  and  the  Boulevards,  for  two 
hours,  seeing  Paris  by  gasliijht. 

This  unanimity  of  the  American  residents  in  Paris,  in 
assisting  to  make  his  stay  a  pleasant  one,  was  one  of  the 
most  pleasing  incidents  of  the  General's  tour,  and  the  cour- 
teous reception  accorded  by  President  MacMahon  was  not 
so  much  formality  as  it  was  an  expression  of  the  kindly 
feelings  that  exist  between  the  French  nation  and  our  own, 
and  will  be  regarded  as  an  evidence  that  the  century-old 
ties  that  bind  the  two  nations  together  are  not  weakened 
by  time  or  any  alterations  of  the  political  conditions  that 
have  arisen,  or  are  likely  to  arise,  in  either  country. 

On  the  27th,  General  Grant  visited  the  Herald  Bureau, 
remaining  an  hour  or  more.  He  then  went  to  the  studio  of 
Mr.  Healy,  the  American  artist,  and  gave  a  sitting  for  a 
portrait;  afterwards  strolled  about  Montmartre  and  climbed 
the  hill,  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  Paris.  In  the  even- 
ing he  was  honored  by  visits  from  several  distinguished 
people,  including  the  Comte  de  Paris,  head  of  the  Orleans 
family,  and  the  Duchess  of  Magenta,  wife  of  the  Marshal- 
President. 

If  being  much  feted  brings  much  pleasure,  General 
Grant  must  have  been  in  a  happy  frame  of  mind.  After  the 
stately  round  of  London  festivities,  which  were  led  off  by 
the  magnificent  reception  at  Minister  Pierrepont's;  after 
becoming  a  citizen  of  some  twenty-five  Scotch  burghs; 
after  going  through  Belgium,  and  dining  with  kings  and 
such;  after  the  return  to  England,  which  led  to  the  eating 
of  dinners  with  some  twenty-five  fine  old  English  corpora- 
tions,  the   imperturbable    ex-President   took    his   way   to 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  79 

Paris.  He  who  would  fight  anything  out  on  a  certain  line, 
if  it  took  him  all  the  four  seasons,  is  not  the  man  you  can 
frighten  with  a  string  of  long  dinners.  He  has  the  confi- 
dence in  himself  that  says,  I  can  eat  my  way  through  all 
the  marshals  and  marquises,  from  Finistere  to  the  Alps. 
His  Scotch  campaign,  no  less  than  his  English,  proved 
what  broadsides  of  hospitality  he  can  safely  withstand. 

On  the  29th,  Minister  Noyes  gave  a  grand  banquet  and 
reception  to  General  Grant.  The  banquet  was  a  superb 
effort  of  culinary  skill,  which  can  work  such  gastronomic 
wonders  when  given  carte  bla7icJie  and  where  there  is  a 
cellar  of  monte  christo  to  draw  upon.  President  MacMa- 
hon  had  been  invited,  but  declined  on  the  ground  of  having 
recently  refused  to  be  present  at  several  diplomatic  dinners. 
He  promised  to  be  present  at  the  reception  in  the  evening. 
Twenty-two  guests  were  present  at  the  table:  General 
and  Mrs.  Grant;  Minister  and  Mrs.  Noyes;  Mme.  Ber- 
thaut;  M.  Caillaux,  Minister  of  Finance;  M.  Brunet, 
Minister  of  Public  Instruction;  M.  Voisin,  Prefect  of 
Police;  General  Berthaut,  Minister  of  War;  M.  Paris, 
Minister  of  Public  Works;  General  Marquis  d'  Abzac, 
Aid-de-Camp  to  the  President;  Due  de  Broglie,  President 
of  the  Council,  Keeper  of  the  Seals,  Minister  of  Justice; 
J^Iiss  Lincoln;  Jesse  R.  Grant;  M.  Duval,  Prefect  of  the 
Seine;  M.  De  Fourtou,  Minister  of  the  Interior;  Viscounte 
de  Meaux,  Minister  of  Commerce;  Miss  Stevens;  Duchess 
Decazes;  M.  MoUard,  Introducer  of  Ambassadors;  Lieu- 
tenant de  la  Panouse,  Staff  Oilicer  of  the  Marshal;  and 
M.  Vignaux,  Assistant  Secretary  of  Legation.  The  fol- 
lowing was  the  menu: 

MENU. 

POTAGES. 

Tortue  a  I'Anglaise. 

Consomme  a  la  Sevigne. 

noRS  d'ceuvres. 

Bouchees  Agnes  Sorel. 

RELEVE. 

Turbot,  sauce  creme,  et  crevettes. 


PUNCH. 

Rose. 

ROTIS. 

Faisans  tiuffes. 
Cailles  siir  croustades. 

ENTREMETS. 

Pate  de  foie  gras  de  Strasbourg. 

Saladc  Parisienne. 

Crepes  a  la  Bordelaise. 

Timbales  d'ananas,  Pompadour. 

Gateaux  noisettes. 

DESSERT. 
VINS. 

Vieux  Madere. 

Chateau  d'Yquem,  creme  1864. 

Chateau  Latitte,  1864. 

Chateau  Margaux,  1869. 

Johannisberg,  Metternich's,  1857. 

Clos  Vougeot,  1858. 

Romanee  Conti,  1865. 

Champagne  Dry  Monopole,  1870. 

Amontillado. 

Vieux  Port,  vintage  1858. 

Cognac,  1S44. 

Kirschwasser.  Anisette.  Chartreute. 

Curacoa. 

The  banquet  passed  off  without  any  special  incident 
worthy  of  note,  that  charming  flow  of  polite  and  witty,  or, 
at  least,  pleasantly  pointed  conversation  which  character- 
izes French  dinners,  kept  time  to  the  melody  of  the  repast 
itself.  There  was  no  English  reserve  to  thaw  —  the 
French  and  the  American  eittendent  without  difficulty,  and 
hence  they  make  the  best  of  neighbors  around  the  snowy 
damask. 

At  about  nine  o'clock  the  general  reception  began.  A 
heavy  rain  had  been  falling  all  the  afternoon  and  evening. 
It,  of  course,  had  no  deterrent  effect  on  the  invited.  It  was 
not  long  before  the  salons  were  filled  with  guests.  The 
guests  were  received  by  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and 


TOUK  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  8l 

their  son,  General  and  Mrs.  Noyes,  Consul-General  Tor- 
bert,  and  Secretary  Vignaux  making  the  introductions. 
Mrs.  Grant  was  dressed  in  a  tostume  of  heavy  white  satin, 
Mrs.  Noyes  appeared  in  a  similar  dress,  General  Grant 
and  Minister  Noyes  wore  plain  evening  dress,  and  General 
■Torbert  appearing  in  the  full  uniform  of  a  major-general. 

The  rooms,  as  the  guests  arrived,  became  perfect  gar- 
dens of  lovely  colors.  Brilliant  uniforms,  diplomatic  orders 
and  decorations,  mingling  with  the  sheen  of  silks  and  satins, 
made  up  a  wonderful  picture.  Marshal  MacMahon  arrived 
early.  He  wore  a  plain  evening  dress,  with  the  ribbon  of 
the  Legion,  and  a  breast  covered  with  orders.  The  Mar- 
shal stood  for  nearly  an  hour  beside  General  Grant,  join- 
ing in  the  conversation  and  receiving  congratulations.  As 
the  two  renowned  soldiers  stood  side  by  side,  one  could  not 
help  contrasting  them.  Marshal  MacMahon's  ruddy, 
honest,  Celtic  face,  white  moustache  and  white  hair,  recalled 
the  poet's  figure  of  "a  rose  in  snow";  Grant,  calm,  mas- 
sive and  reserved,  wore  the  same  imperturbable  face  so 
well  known  at  home.  MacMahon  seemed  all  nerve  and 
,  restlessness;  Grant  looked  all  patience, and  repose.  The 
contrast  in  person  was  indeed  remarkable.  Although  each 
had  come  to  the  Presidency  of  a  powerful  republic  over 
the  same  red  road,  the  passion  of  arms  commanding  two 
great  nations  had  led  each  to  choose  its  foremost  soldier  as 
executive  head.  One  had  laid  down  his  power  at  the  feet 
of  the  people  who  conferred  it.  The  other,  a  few  months 
later,  after  a  long  and  severe  struggle  with  the  hot  and 
ungovernable  ^"adicals,  was  forced  to  give  way  to  one 
more  in  sympathy  with  the  dominant  party.  Meantime  two 
great  warlike  careers  touched  in  friendship  in  the  parlors  of 
Minister  Noyes. 

The  reception  drew  together  the  largest  assembly  of  the 
American  colony  known  in  years,  and  they  compared 
6 


82  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

favorably  with  the  many  Eurojiean  nations  represented 
there. 

The  refreshment  tables  were  exquisitely  arranged  and 
well  patronized,  which  is  just  how  such  a  host  as  General 
Noyes  would  desire  to  have  his  sumptuous  hospitality 
appreciated. 

On  the  31st,  General  Grant  visited  the  Palais  d' Indus- 
trie, and  the  works  where  the  statue  of  "  Liberty"  for  New 
York  harbor  is  being  constructed.  The  sculptor,  M.  Bar- 
tholdi,  presented  him  with  a  miniature  model  of  the  statue. 
In  the  evening  the  General  attended  the  opera,  where  he 
was  enthusiastically  received  by  the  audience,  and  treated 
with  great  ceremony  by  the  officials. 

On  November  x.  Marshal  MacMahon  gave  a  dinner  at  the 
Elysee,  in  honor  of  General  Grant.  Cabinet  and  Marshal's 
military  household  and  prominent  French  and  American 
residents  were  present.  The  banquet  was  a  very  brilliant 
and  animated  affair.  After  dinner,  General  Grant  and  Pres- 
ident ISIacMahon  had  a  long  conversation  in  the  smokino-- 
room.  The  Marshal  invited  General  Grant  to  breakfast 
with  him,  as  a  friend,  and  also  to  witness  some  of  the  sit- 
tings of  the  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Deputies,  which  the 
General  accepted,  and  was  much  pleased  with  his  cordial 
reception. 

If  Paris  is  the  place  where  good  Americans  go  after 
death,  it  is,  all  the  same,  a  good  place  for  great  Americans 
to  go  during  life.  The  magnificent  banquet  tendered  No- 
vember 6,  in  the  gay  capital,  to  General  Grant,  by  the  resi- 
dent Americans,  is  a  proof  of  the  latter.  The  three  hundred 
and  fifty  Americans  who  greeted  our  great  soldier  so  hand- 
somely, one  and  all,  thought  so.  As  for  the  General,  him- 
self, he  has  had  so  many  courtesies  from  occasional  kings 
and  nobles,  that  he  must  have  felt  a  thrill  of  pleasure  pass 
through  him,  as  he  found  himself  face  to  face  with  a  com- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  83 

pany  in  which  every  man  was  a  sovereign.  As  for  the 
ladies,  God  bless  them!  they  are  queens  everywhere. 
Among  those  beside  the  General  at  the  banquet,  were  men 
who  carried  the  names,  dear  to  all  patriotic  Americans,  of 
Rochambeau  and  Lafayette.  Thus  did  old  France  look 
kindly  through  the  eyes  of  her  descendants  upon  the  chil- 
dren of  the  Republic  of  the  West,  which  her  blood  and 
treasure  did  so  much  to  found. 

The  banqeting  hall  was  splendidly  decorated  and  illu- 
minated. The  Franco-American  Union  contributed  a 
portrait  of  General  Grant,  which,  adorned  with  flags,  was 
hung  over  the  principal  table.  A  band  stationed  in  the 
gallery  played  at  intervals,  and  vocal  music  was  given  by 
a  chorus  furnished  by  the  director  of  the  Italian  opera. 

General  Grant,  Minister  Noyes  and  General  Torbert 
were  in  full  military  uniform. 

Mr.  Noyes,  as  chairman,  proposed  the  following 
toasts : — 

"The  President  of  the  United  States,"  which  was  re- 
sponded to  by  music  only. 

"The  President  of  the  French  Republic,"  to  which  a 
similar  response  was  made. 

These  were  followed  by  the  toast  of  the  evening,  "  Our 
Guest,  General  Grant,"  which  was  proposed  by  the  Chair- 
man in  the  following  speech: — 

"Ladies  and  Gentlemen:  It  has  generally  hap- 
pened, according  to  the  world's  history,  that  when  a  great 
public  crisis  has  occurred,  such  as  a  revolution  for  inde- 
pendence or  a  struggle  for  national  existence,  some  man 
has  been  found  specially  fitted  for  and  equal  to  the  emer- 
gency. He  appears  suddenly  from  unexpected  quarters, 
and  is  not  always  selected  from  the  arena  of  politics  or  from 
among  the  most  prominent  of  his  countrymen.  He  as- 
sumes at  the  proper  time  leadership  and  control,  simply 


84  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

because  he  was  born  for  it  and  seems  to  have  waited  for 
the  opportunity  and  the  necessity. 

"When  the  war  of  secession  was  inaugurated  in  America, 
in  1861,  a  quiet  and  silent  man,  who  had  received  a 
military  education,  was  pursuing  an  avocation  in  civil  life 
in  a  small  town  in  Illinois.  As  soon  as  the  first  hostile 
guns  opened  upon  Fort  Sumter,  he  offered  his  services  to 
his  country  and  was  appointed  colonel  of  a  regiment  of 
volunteers.  It  was  then  believed  that  the  war  would  be  of 
short  duration  and  limited  in  extent,  but  the  North  had  un- 
derrated the  spirit  and  perhaps  the  courage  and  endurance 
of  the  rebellious  section.  Early  reverses  and  doubtful  con- 
tests that  were  either  defeats  or  drawn  battles  soon  made  it 
apparent  that  all  the  energies  and  resources  of  the  govern- 
ment would  be  taxed  to  the  uttermost.  The  theater  of  war 
rapidly  extended  until  it  stretched  westward  a  thousand 
miles  from  the  sea,  across  great  rivers  and  mountain  ranges. 
Immense  armies  were  assembled  in  the  South,  composed 
of  brave  and  chivalric  soldiers  and  commanded  by  able  and 
accomplished  leaders.  There  were  serious  political  troubles 
and  divided  sympathies  among  the  people  of  the  North, 
but  both  sides  nerved  themselves  for  the  bloody  and  terri- 
ble strufftrle,  which  lasted  four  vears  and  resulted  in  the 
success  of  the  national  forces. 

"I^Ieantime  our  Illinois  Colonel  had  risen  in  rank  until 
there  was  no  grade  sufficient  for  his  recognition  and  re- 
ward, and  tvvo  new  ones  were  successively  created.  This 
silent  man  had  shaken  the  continent  with  the  thunder  of  his 
artillery  and  the  tramp  of  his  victorious  columns.  At  the 
close  of  the  war  he  was  general-in-chief,  commanding  all 
the  armies  of  the  Republic,  which  carried  upon  their  muster 
rolls  1,100,000  men.  The  Union  was  preserved,  and  its  flag 
everywhere  respected.  After  the  close  of  the  war  he  was 
twice  called  bv  a  grateful  nation  to  the  highest  office  in  the 
gift  of  forty-five  million  people. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  85 

"He  administered  the  government  with  moderation,  gen- 
erosity, wisdom  and  success.  The  civil  power  was  con- 
fronted  by  many  complicated  and  difficult  questions.  He 
solved  them  with  rare  patriotism  and  intelligence,  and  his 
place  in  history  as  a  civil  magistrate  will  be  among  the 
foremost.  After  sixteen  years  of  such  labor  as  few  men 
could  endure,  after  such  success  iu  war  and  peace  as  few 
men  ever  attain,  he  seeks  recreation  in  many  lands,  and  an 
opportunity  to  compare  the  institutions  of  his  own  country 
with  the  civilization  and  forms  of  government  of  the  Old 
World.  It  is  our  happy  privilege  to-night  to  welcome  the 
great  soldier  and  statesman  to  this,  the  Queen  City  of  the 
world,  and  to  wish  for  him  and  his  family  health  and  hap- 
piness. Without  detaining  you  longer,  I  propose  the  health 
of  the  distinguished  guest  of  the  evening,  General  Grant, 
ex-President  of  the  United  States." 

The  delivery  of  General  Noyes'  speech  was  frequently 
interrupted  by  enthusiastic  applause. 

General  Grant,  on  rising  to  reply,  was  received  with 
prolonged  cheering.     He  said: 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  :  After  your  flattering 
reception,  and  the  compliments  of  Go-^rnor  Noyes,  I  am 
embarrassed  to  thank  you  as  I  should  wish.  During  the 
five  and  a  half  months  I  have  been  in  Europe,  my  recep- 
tion has  been  very  gratifying,  not  only  to  me,  but  also, 
above  all,  to  my  country  and  countrymen,  who  were  hon- 
ored by  it.  I  thank  the  American  colony  of  Paris.  I  hope 
its  members  will  enjoy  their  visit  here  as  I  am  doing  and 
hope  to  do  for  some  weeks  yet.  I  hope  when  you  return 
home  you  will  find  you  realized  the  benefits  predicted  by 
our  Minister." 

Loud  and  enthusiastic  applause  followed  the  General's 
speech. 

M.  de  Lafayette  replied  to  the  toast  of  "France."  He 
said  France  duly  appreciated   the  great  leader  and  great 


86  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

citizen  who  honored  her  by  his  visit.  M.  de  Lafayette  re- 
marked that  General  Grant  quitted  power  solely  to  bow 
before  the  laws  of  his  country.  He  thanked  him  for  visit- 
ing France,  because  he  was  a  great  example  for  her,  and 
because  France  gained  from  close  inspection.  In  con- 
clusion, he  alluded  to  the  Revolutionary  war,  and  expressed 
an  ardent  wish  that  the  French  and  American  republics 
should  never  be  separated,  but  form  an  indissoluble  union 
for  the  welfare,  liberty  and  independence  of  peoples. 

The  Marquis  of  Rochambeau  also  spoke  in  eulogy  of 
Genetal  Grant. 

The  toast,  "  The  Army  and  Navy,"  was  responded  to 
by  the  singing  of  the  "  Star  Spangled  Banner "  by  the 
Italian  chorus. 

Mr.  Noyes  finally  proposed  "  The  Ladies,"  and  General 
Torbert  offered  « The  Health  of  the  United  States  Min- 
ister." Mr.  Noyes  replied  briefly,  and  the  company  then 
adjourned  to  the  drawing-room. 

After  nearly  a  month's  stay  in  Paris,  having  been  dined 
and  feted  by  nearly  all  the  prominent  and  distinguished 
civilians  and  oflicials  in  this  gay  city,  the  great  sensational 
event  was  the  fete^  consisting  of  a  dinner  and  ball,  given  in 
honor  of  ex-President  Grant  by  Mrs.  Mackay,  wife  of 
"Bonanza"  Mackay,  on  November  21,  at  her  splendid 
mansion  in  the  Rue  Tilsit.  The  affair  overshadowed  in 
importance,  as  far  as  the  American  colony  and  fashionable 
society  are  concerned,  anything  that  had  preceded  it  in 
brilliant  extravagance  of  display.  Even  the  reporters  were 
at  a  loss  for  hyperboles  of  descriptive  style  that  could  do 
justice  to  the  pomp,  splendor  and  sparkle  of  the  occasion. 
The  house  where  the  affair  took  place  cost  one  mil- 
lion five  hundred  thousand  francs,  and  the  furniture  five 
hundred  thousand  francs.  It  looks  out  upon  the  Place 
d'Etoile,  and  is  a  splendid  residence.  The  garden 
was   brilliantly   illuminated   and    decorated  with    national 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  87 

flags,  and  with  emblems  set  in  thousands  of  gas  jets.  The 
orchestra,  consisting  of  thirty-six  musicians,  was  stationed 
on  a  pavilion  built  out  from  the  house  in  front  of  the  Rue 
Tilsit.  A  dozen  footmen,  in  liveries  of  crimson  and  gold, 
lined  the  entrance  and  stairway. 

The  carriages  occupied  the  causeway  in  front.  The 
vestibule,  staircase  and  passage-ways  were  \  "ofusely  deco- 
rated with  flags  and  beautiful  flowers.  Tht  rooms  were 
magnificent.  Everything  that  money  could  supply  and  ele- 
gant taste  select  was  there  to  add  to  the  beauty  and  im- 
pressiveness  of  the  scene. 

There  were  covers  for  twenty- four,  and  the  guests  were 
General  Grant  and  family,  and  the  members  of  the  Amer- 
ican Legation  and  Consulate  and  their  families.  There 
were  no  unofficial  Americans  present  at  the  dinner.  The 
menu  was  inscribed  on  small  silver  tablettes^  as  in  the  case 
of  the  famous  dinner  to  Senator  Sharon  at  San  Francisco. 
After  the  dinner,  a  grand  reception  and  ball  took  place^ 
at  which  three  hundred  guests  were  present.  Among 
the  guests  were  the  Marquis  de  Lafayette,  MM.  de 
Rochambeau  and  de  Bois-Thierry,  the  Due  de  Rivoli, 
the  Due  and  Duchesse  de  Bojano,  the  Due  and  Mile. 
Ribon  de  Trohen,  Comtes  de  Beon,  Serrurrier,  de 
Montferraut,  de  Divonns  and  Excelmans,  the  Baronne 
Delort  de  Gleon,  Barons  Houbeyran  and  de  Reinach,  and 
Vicomtes  de  Villestrux  and  Marchand,  the  Due  Decazes,. 
Senator  Laboulaye,  MM.  Henri  Martin  and  Leon  Say, 
Mme.  Guizot,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sellgman  and  M.  Cernuschi. 

The  American  colony  was  largely  represented,  and  the 
number  of  beautiful  women  was  very  remarkable.  The 
ladies'  costumes  displayed  extraordinary  taste,  elegance  and 
richness.  The  dancing  commenced  early  and  continued 
till  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

During  the  latter  part  of  November,  General  Grant 
yfSLsJ'eted  and  dined  by  !Mrs.  General  Sickles,  at  her  resi- 


88  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

dence  in  the  Rue  Presbourg,  which  was  a  brilliant  affair; 
by  the  Marquis  de  Talleyrand-Perigord;  by  the  Comte  de 
Paris;  Emile  Girardin,  editor  of  La  Frafice;  M.  Gam- 
betta;  Mr.  Healy,  the  American  artist;  M.  Laugel,  a  prom- 
inent Orleanist,  and  at  the  house-of  Mr.  Harjes,  the  banker, 
was  toasted  for  the  last  time  in  Paris.  The  gentlemen  in 
the  party  were  all  Americans,  and  the  affair  was  one  of  the 
most  elegant  which  has  taken  place  in  Paris  this  season. 

■  As  a  guest  of  many  distinguished  persons  in  the  gay 
capital,  and  a  man  honored  in  all  circles,  he  had  enjoyed  an 
uncommonly  brilliant  round  of  festivities,  and  had  been  the 
subject  of  wide  and  various  criticism,  and  had  stood  the  fire 
of  festivities  and  criticism  alike  with  that  imperturbable 
tranquility  which  is  an  inseparable  element  of  his  identity. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


THROUGH    FRANCE. ITALY. 

General  Grant  and  party  reached  Lyons  on  the  2d  of 
December,  and  were  received  by  the  Prefect,  the  President 
of  the  Municipal  Council,  American  residents  and  several 
of  the  leading  silk  merchants  of  Lyons.  After  a  tour  of 
inspection  of  the  quays  and  places  of  interest,  he  left  for 
Marseilles  on  the  3d,  where  he  was  received  with  great 
enthusiasm.  On  the  15th  we  find  him  at  Genoa,  he  hav- 
ing previously  visited  Villa  Franca  and  Leghorn.  After 
visiting  the  town  of  Genoa,  the  General  gave  a  reception 
to  the  authorities  on  board  the  United  States  steamer  Van- 
dalia,  Commander  Robeson. 

Reaching  Naples,  early  on  the  evening  of  the  17th,  on 
the  following  day,  in  company  with  Mrs.  Grant  and  son,  he 
made  the  ascent  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  but,  the  day  being 
cold,  the  party  did  not  reach  the  crater.  Luncheon  was 
served  at  the  "  House  of  Refuge,"  near  the  Observatory, 
and  a  pleasant  hour  spent  in  enjoying  the  remarkable  view 
of  Capri  and  Ischia.  The  plain  is  studded  with  twenty 
villages  and  lined  with  snow  clad  liills,  and  the  snow  looked 
beautifully  clear  and  white  in  the  gorgeous  sunlight  of  an 
Italian  sky.  They  returned  in  the  evening  to  the  Vanda- 
lia,  after  having  spent  a  delightfully  pleasant  day. 

On  Wednesday  the  General  and  family,  accompanied  by 
Consul  Duncan,  Commander  Robeson,  Lieutenants  Strong, 
Rush  and  Miller,  and  Engineer  Baird,  visited  the  ruins  of 


90  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

Pompeii.  The  government  had  made  arrangements  for 
a  special  excavation  in  honor  of  General  Grant,  so 
that  he  might  see  how  the  work  was  done,  and  see 
some  of  the  curiosities  recovered  just  as  they  were 
placed  when  the  city  was  suddenly  destroyed.  The  day 
was  a  little  cold,  but  clear,  and  in  every  way  favorable 
for  the  work.  The  director  of  the  excavations  received 
General  Grant  and  party,  and  conducted  them  to  the  prin- 
cipal points  of  interest.  Two  hours  were  spent  wandering 
among  the  ruins  of  this  ancient  and  memorable  city,  and 
at  every  step  something  of  interest  was  seen.  The  work- 
ingmen  then  proceeded  to  dig  out  the  chamber  of  a  buried 
house,  and  discovered  some  fragments  of  a  table  made  of 
wood  and  bronze.  The  workmanship  was  very  curious 
and  elaborate,  and  was  examined  with  great  interest  by  the 
whole  party.  The  next  object  of  interest  discovered  was 
a  loaf  of  bread,  wrapped  neatly  in  cloth  and  perfectly  dis- 
tinguishable. Many  other  curious  and  interesting  articles 
were  found  and  inspected  by  the  party  of  visitors,  and  all 
expressed  themselves  as  highly  gratified  with  their  visit  to 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city.  They  returned  m  the  even- 
ing. 

On  Thursday  ex-President  Grant  returned  the  official 
visits  of  the  civil  and  military  authorities  of  the  city.  As 
he  left  the  Vandalia  the  yards  were  manned  and  a  salute 
fired,  the  salute  being  returned  by  the  Italian  Admiral. 
General  Grant  then  landed,  and  was  met  by  the  General 
commanding  the  district,  who  had  a  regiment  of  Bersaglieri 
drawn  up  in  front  of  the  Royal  Palace,  and  reviewed  by 
General  Grant.  Accompanied  by  the  Italian  officials,  he 
then  visited  the  naval  and  military  schools  and  the  palace, 
after  which  he  attended  a  reception  at  the  house  of  Consul 
Duncan. 

During  these  visits  General  Grant  was  accompanied  by 
his   son,   Commander    Robeson,    Lieutenants   Rush   and 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  9* 

Miller,  and  a  splendid  retinue  of  Italian  officials.  The 
whole  tone  of  the  reception  accorded  him  was  cordial  and 
stately.  The  General  expressed  himself  with  the  greatest 
admiration  of  the  Italian  troops. 

Christmas  we  find  General  Grant  and  party  on  board  the 
Vandalia,  at  Palermo.  The  General  remained  on  board  until 
noon  to  receive  the  visit  of  the  Prefect,  who  came  in  state,^ 
and  was  honored  with  a  salute  of  fifteen  guns.  His  Honor 
remained  only  a  few  minutes,  during  which  he  tendered 
the  General  all  the  hospitalities  and  courtesies  of  the  town,^ 
but  General  Grant  declined  them,  with  thanks. 

After  the  departure  of  the  city  authorities,  the  General 
and  Captain  Robeson  went  on  shore,  and  sauntered  about 
for  two  or  three  hours,  looking  on  the  holiday  groups,  who 
made  the  day  a  merry  one  in  their  Sicilian  fashion.  A 
Christmas  dinner  w^as  furnished  from  the  ship's  larder. 
The  hosts  were  Chief  Engineer  J.  Trilley,  Surgeon  George 
Cooke,  Lieutenant-Commander  A.  G.  Caldwell,  Lieutenant 
E.  T.  Strong,  Past-Assistant-Engineers  G.  W.  Baird  and 
D.  M.  Fulmer,  Lieutenant  Jacob  W.  Miller,  Paymaster  J. 
P.  Loomis,  Lieutenant  Richard  Rush,  Captain  L.  E. 
Fagan,  commanding  the  marines.  Lieutenant  H.  O. 
Handy,  Lieutenant  W.  A.  Hadden  and  Master  J.  W. 
Daunehower.  These  comj^rised  the  names  of  the  ward- 
room officers  of  the  Vandalia  —  a  gallant,  manly,  chivalrous 
company  they  were.  The  guests  of  the  evening  were  Gen- 
eral Grant  and  wife,  Commander  H.  B.  Robeson,  and 
Jesse  R.  Grant.  This  was  the  company;  the  menu  will 
give  an  idea  of  what  a  ship's  kitchen  can  do  for  a  Christ- 
mas dinner: 

MENU. 

Potage. 

Tomate  puree. 

Bouchees  a  la  reine. 

CabcUon  a  la  Hollandaise. 

Puree  de  pommes. 
Dindonneau  aux  huitre*. 
Haricots   verts. 


92  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 


Filets  aux  champignons. 

Petits  pois. 

Puncli  a  la  Roinaine. 

Salacie. 

Plum  pudding. 

Mince  pies. 

Dessert. 


It  was  nearly  six  when  the  soup  made  its  appearance, 
and  it  was  half-past  eight  before  the  waiters  brought  in  the 
colTee.  There  was  no  hurry  —  no  long  pauses.  The  chat 
went  round  the  table,  the  General  doing  his  share  of  talk. 
It  was  a  genial,  home-like  feast.  Thus,  Christmas,  1877, 
closed  merry  and  pleasant. 

The  next  morning  there  were  calls  to  make  —  official 
calls;  this  is 'one  of  the  duties  of  the  General's  trip.  The 
incognito  of  General  Grant  is  one  that  no  one  will  respect. 
He  declines  all  honors  and  attentions,  so  far  as  he  can  do 
so  without  rudeness,  and  is  especially  indifferent  to  the 
parade  and  etiquette  by  which  his  journey  is  surrounded. 
It  is  amusing,  knowing  General  Grant's  feelings  on  the 
subject,  to  read  the  articles  in  English  and  American  papers 
about  his  craving  for  precedence,  and  his  fear  lest  he  may 
not  have  the  proper  seat  at  the  table  and  the  highest  num- 
ber of  guns  for  a  salute.  He  had  declined  every  attention 
of  an  official  character  thus  far,  except  those  whose  non- 
acceptance  would  have  been  misconstrued.  When  he 
arrived  at  a  port,  his  habit  was  to  go  ashore  with  his  wife 
and  son,  see  what  was  to  be  seen,  and  drift  about  from  pal- 
ace to  picture  gallery,  like  any  other  wandering,  studious 
American,  "  doing  Europe."  Sometimes  the  officials  were 
too  prompt  for  him,  but  generally,  unless  they  called  by 
appointment,  they  found  the  General  absent. 

In  this  country  a  large  class  of  our  citizens  have  been 
misled  by  the  false  reports  of  the  press  and  enemies  of  ex- 
President  Grant,  and  believe  that  the  General  traveled 
like  a  prince,  with  a  large  retinue;  that  he  was  enabled  to  do 
so,  because  the  men  who  fattened  on  the  corruptions  of  his 


TOUR  AROVNU  THE  WORLD.  93 

administration  gave  him  a  share  of  their  plunder.  The 
truth  is,  General  Grant  traveled  as  a  private  citizen.  He 
had  one  servant  and  a  courier.  His  courier  arranged  for 
his  hotel  accommodations,  and  the  one  who  did  office  for 
the  General  took  pains  to  get  as  good  bargains  for  his 
master  as  possible.  So  far  as  General  Grant  being  a  rich 
man,  it  is  known  by  his  friends  that,  when  he  left  this 
country,  the  duration  of  his  trip  would  depend  entirely 
upon  his  income,  and  this  income  depends  altogether  upon 
the  proceeds  of  his  investment  of  the  money  presented  to 
him  at  the  close  of  the  war.  The  Presidency  yielded  him 
nothing  in  the  way  of  capital,  and  he  has  not  now  a  dollar 
that  came  to  him  as  an  official.  By  this  is  meant,  that  the 
money  paid  to  General  Grant  as  a  soldier  and  as  a  Presi- 
dent was  spent  by  him  in  supporting  the  dignity  of  his 
office.  Everybody  knows  how  much  money  was  given 
him  at  the  close  of  the  war;  as  this  was  all  well  invested 
and  has  grown,  one  may  estimate  the  fortune  of  the  Gen- 
eral, and  about  how  long  that  fortune  would  enable  him  to 
travel  like  a  prince  over  Europe. 

At  Palermo  General  Grant  and  family  remained  several 
days,  enjoying  the  delightful  climate  and  picturesque  attrac- 
tions. This  Sicily  is  the  land  of  many  civilizations.  Here 
Greek,  the  Carthagenian,  the  Roman  and  the  Saracen, 
have  made  their  mark.  This  is  the  land  of  the  poetry  of 
Homer,  the  genius  of  Archimedes,  the  philosophy  and  piety 
of  Paul.  These  hills  and  bays  and  valleys  have  seen  mighty 
armies  striving  for  the  mastery  of  the  world.  Certainly  if 
example  or  precept,  or  the  opportunity  for  great  deeds, 
could  ennoble  a  nation,  Sicily  should  be  the  land  of  heroes. 
But  its  heroism  has  fallen  into  rags,  and  the  descendants  of 
the  men  who  destroyed  the  Athenian  fleet  in  Syracuse,  and 
who  confronted  the  power  of  Carthage  at  Agrigentum, 
now  spend  their  time  sleeping  in  the  sun,  swarming  around 
chapel  doors  to  beg,  and  hiding  in  the  hills  to  waylay  trav- 


94  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

elers  and  rob  them  or  keep  them  for  a  ransom.  Brigand- 
age  has  for  generations  been  the  dominant  industry  in  the 
SiciHes,  but  it  is  due  to  the  present  Itahan  government  to  say 
that  they  are  doing  all  in  their  power  to  suppress  it. 

On  the  aSth,  General  Grant  and  party  arrived  at  La 
Valetta,  Malta.  At  this  place  the  General  was  visited 
by  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  who  was  at  Malta  in  com- 
mand of  the  Sultan,  an  English  ironclad.  His  Royal 
Highness  was  received  at  the  gangway  by  Captain  Robe- 
son. He  was  dressed  in  his  uniform  as  Captain,  wearing 
on  his  breast  the  star  of  the  Garter. 

General  Grant  advanced  and  greeted  the  Duke,  and 
presented  the  gentlemen  with  him,  and  they  retired  to  the 
cabin.  They  remained  in  conversation  for  the  best  part  of 
an  hour,  talking  about  Malta,  its  antiquities,  its  history, 
England,  education  and  the  Eastern  question.  The  Duke 
spoke  of  the  visit  of  his  brother-in-law,  the  Grand  Duke 
Alexis,  to  America,  and  of  the  gratification  of  the  family 
at  the  reception  tendered  him  in  America.  His  Royal 
Highness  is  a  pattern  of  a  sailor,  and  has  all  the  ease  and 
off-lumd  grace  of  the  family.  On  taking  his  leave,  he 
invi'"d  the  General  and  family  to  visit  him  at  his  palace  of 
San  Antonio   and    take   luncheon,   which   was   accepted. 

The  palace  of  San  Antonio  is  about  four  miles  from 
town ;  it  is  surrounded  by  orange  groves  and  walls,  and  is 
noted  as  the  only  large  garden  on  the  island.  The  drive 
was  through  an  interesting  country,  and  greatly  enjoyed 
by  the  visitors.  At  the  palace,  the  Duke  and  Duchess 
received  the  General  and  Mi*s.  Grant  and  their  son  in  the 
most  gracious  manner.  After  luncheon  His  Royal  High- 
ness escorted  them  through  the  orange  groves.  At  noon 
General  Grant  visited  the  Governor-General  of  Malta. 

On  leaving,  the  General  was  saluted  with  twenty-one 
guns.  A  regiment  was  drawn  up  in  front  of  the  palace  as 
A  guard  of  honor.     The  Governor,  a  famous  old  English 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  95 

General,  Van  Straubeuzee,  wore  the  Order  of  the  Grand 
Cross  of  the  Bath.  He  received  the  General  and  party  at  the 
door  of  the  palace,  surrounded  by  his  council  and  a  group 
of  Maltese  noblemen.  After  presentation  to  Lady  Van 
Straubeuzee,  the  same  ceremonies  were  repeated.  In  the 
evening  there  was  a  state  dinner  to  the  General  and  party 
at  the  palace,  including,  among  the  guests.  Commander 
Robeson  and  Lieutenant-Commander  Caldwell,  of  the 
Vandalia,  as  well  as  the  Captain  and  executive  officers  of 
the  Gettysburg.  At  the  dinner  General  Grant's  health  was 
proposed,  which  was  responded  to  in  the  heartiest  manner. 
There  were  many  temptations  to  remain  in  Malta. 
Hospitalities  were  showered  upon  General  Grant.  All  the 
great  ones  vied  with  one  another  in  making  his  visit  a  pleas- 
ant one.  Yet  on  the  last  day  of  the  year  the  General  bid 
good-bye,  and  sailed  for  the  land  of  the  Lotus, 


CHAPTER  IX. 


IN   EGYPT   AND    THE    LOTU?    LAND. 

The  voyage  from  Malta  to  Egypt  was  exceedingly  un- 
pleasant. A  severe  storm  prevailed  most  of  the  time,  ren- 
dering life  anything  but  comfortable.  Unlike  the  majority 
of  military  heroes,  General  Grant  seems  to  take  kindly  to 
the  waves,  and  to  be  as  much  at  home  on  them  as  if  he 
had  been  educated  at  Annapolis  instead  of  West  Point. 

No  storm,  however  severe,  could  deprive  him  of  his 
cigar,  or,  to  use  a  sea  phrase,  keep  him  below.  In  this 
respect  he  is  very  unlike  Napoleon,  who  detested  the  sea, 
and  whom  the  smell  of  tar  invariably  sickened.  The 
English  humorists  never  tired  of  twitting  him  on  the  fact, 
and  the  patriotic  prints  and  cartoons  at  the  time  he  was 
planning  his  celebrated  invasion  depict  the  conqueror  of 
the  continent  in  some  exceedingly  ludicrous  positions. 

The  General  and  party  stopped  at  Alexandria  because 
they  wanted  a  safe  anchorage,  though  they  had  intended 
going  direct  to  Cairo.  He  remained  there  three  days. 
The  Vandalia  had  hardly  anchored  when  the  Governor  of 
the  district,  the  Admiral  and  the  General,  Pachas  and  Beys, 
Consul-General  Farman,  Judges  Baninger  and  Morgan, 
and  resident  missionaries,  came  on  board,  and  were  received 
by  General  Grant.  The  Governor,  i:i  the  name  of  the 
Khedive,  welcomed  General  Grant  to  Egypt,  and  offered 
him  a  palace  in  Cairo,  and  a  special  steamer  up  the  Nile. 
It  is  Oriental  etiquette  to  return  calls  as  soon  as  possible, 
and  accordingly  in  the  afternoon  the  General,  accompanied 


A    STREET  IX   AI-EXANDRIA. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  97 

by  his  son,  Commander  Robeson,  Chief  Engineer  Trilley» 
and  Lieutenant  Handy  of  the  navy,  landed  in  the  official 
barge.  As  this  was  an  official  visit,  the  Vandalia  manned  the 
yards  and  fired  twenty-one  guns.  These  salutes  were 
responded  to  by  the  Egyptian  vessels;  a  guard  of  honor 
received  the  General  at  the  palace,  and  the  reception  was 
after  the  manner  of  the  Orientals. 

We  enter  a  spacious  chamber  and  are  seated  on  a  cush- 
ioned seat  or  divan,  according  to  rank.  The  Pacha  offers 
the  company  cigarettes.  Then  compliments  are  exchanged, 
the  Pacha  saying  how  proud  Egypt  is  to  see  the  illustrious 
stranger,  and  the  General  answering  that  he  anticipates 
great  pleasure  in  visiting  Egypt.  The  Pacha  gives  a  signal, 
and  servants  enter  bearing  little  porcelain  cups  about  as 
large  as  an  eggt  in  filigree  cases.  This  is  the  beverage  — 
coffee  —  or,  as  was  the  case  with  this  special  Pacha,  a  hot 
drink  spiced  with  cinnamon.  Then  the  conversation  con- 
tinues with  judicious  pauses,  the  Orientals  being  slow  in 
speech  and  our  General  not  apt  to  diffuse  his  opinions.  In 
about  five  minutes  we  arise  and  file  down-stairs  in  slow, 
solemn  fashion,  servants  and  guards  saluting,  and  the  visit 
is  over. 

General  and  Mrs.  Grant  dined  with  Vice-Consul  Sal- 
vage, and  in  the  evening  attended  a  ball  given  in  their 
honor.  This  was  an  exceedingly  brilliant  entertainment, 
and  interesting  in  one  respect  especially,  because  it  was 
here  that  the  General  met  Henry  M.  Stanley,  just  fresh 
from  the  African  wilderness.  Stanley  sat  on  the  right  of 
the  General,  and  they  had  a  long  conversation  upon  African 
matters  and  the  practical  results  of  the  work  done  by  the 
intrepid  explorer.  The  Consul-General  proposed  the 
health  of  General  Grant,  and  Judge  Barringer  proposed 
that  of  Mrs.  Grant,  who  was  prevented  by  fatigue  from 
attending.  Then  a  toast  was  proposed  in  honor  of  Stan- 
ley, who  made  a  grateful  response,  saying  that  it  Avas  one 
7 


^  GEVERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

of  the  proudest  moments  of  his  life  to  find  himself  seated 
by  the  guest  of  the  evening.  The  entertainment  at  Mr. 
Salvage's  at  nn  end,  the  visitors  returned  on  board  the 
Vandalia.  Sunday  was  spent  quietly  in  a  stroll  about  the 
town.  Here  the  General  and  party  left  the  Vandalia  to 
visit  Cairo  and  the  Nile.  Going  by  rail,  they  reached 
Cairo  after  a  run  of  four  hours.  Here  he  was  met  by  Gen- 
eral Stone,  the  representative  of  the  Khedive,  and  also 
General  Loring,  both  Americans,  and  late  of  the  Confed- 
erate States  army.  General  Grant  and  General  Stone 
were  together  at  West  Point,  and  old  friends.  Their  meet- 
ing was  quite  enthusiastic.  The  General  asks  General 
Loring  to  ride  with  him,  while  General  Stone  accompanies 
Mrs.  Grant,  and  so  they  drive  off  to  the  Palace  of  Kassr- 
el-Doussa — the  palace  placed  at  General  Grant's  disposal 
by  the  Khedive.  Commander  Robeson  and  Lieutenant 
Rush  accept  the  General's  invitation  to  reside  in  the  palaca 
while  they  are  in  Cairo,  and  the  remainder  of  the  party 
find  homes  in  the  hotel - 

The  General  dined  qt:te*!j  with  his  family,  and  nel'. 
day  called  on  the  Khedive.  The  hour  fixed  for  the  recep- 
tion was  eleven,  and  a  few  minutes  before  that  hour  the 
state  carriages  called  at  the  palace.  The  General  wore 
plain  evening  dress,  and  was  accompanied  by  the  following 
officers:  Commander  H.  B.  Robeson,  commanding  the 
Vandalia;  Joseph  Trilley,  chief  engineer;  George  H. 
Cooke,  surgeon;  Lieutenant  E.  T.  Strong,  Lieutenant  J. 
W.  Miller,  Paymaster  J.  P.  Loomis;  G.  W.  Baird,  en- 
gineer; H.  L.  Hoskinson,  ensign;  B.  F.  Walling  and  E, 
S.  Hotchkin,  midshipmen;  E.  R.  Freeman,  engineer. 
Jesse  R.  Grant  and  Consul-General  Farman  accompanied 
the  General.  They  reached  the  palace  shortly  after  eleven. 
There  was  a  guard  of  honor,  and  the  officers  of  the  house- 
hold were  ranged  on  the  stairs.  The  General  entered,  and 
was  met  by  His  Highness  the  Khedive  at  the  foot  of  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  99 

stairs.  The  General,  his  son,  and  Mr.  Farman,  went  into 
an  inner  room,  where  the  ceremonies  of  the  formal  pre- 
sentation took  place.  The  officers  then  entered,  and  were 
received  bv  His  Highness,  who  expressed  his  gratification 
at  seeing  so  manv  representatives  of  the  navy.  This  recep- 
tion lasted  about  half  an  hour.  They  then  returned  to  the 
palace,  and  had  scarcely  entered  when  the  carriage  of  the 
Khedive  was  announced.  The  General  received  the  Khe- 
dive, who  was  accompanied  by  his  Secretary  for  Foreign 
Affairs,  and  welcomed  him  in  the  grand  saloon.  The  offi- 
cers of  the  Vandalia  were  present,  and  their  striking  uni- 
forms, the  picturesque  costumes  of  the  Khedive  and  his 
attendants,  and  the  splendid,  stately  decorations  of  the  room 
in  which  they  assembled,  made  the  group  imposing.  At 
the  close  of  the  interview,  General  Grant  escorted  the  Khe- 
dive to  his  carriage.  Official  calls  were  then  made  upon 
the  two  sons  of  the  Khedive,  who  at  once  returned  the 
calls,  and  so  ended  official  duties. 

Judge  Batcheller  and  Consul-General  Farman  each 
gave  a  grand  dinner  and  ball  in  nonor  of  the  General,  which 
were  attended  by  the  notables  of  all  nations  residing  at 
Cairo. 

The  thoughtful  Khedive  gave  our  distinguished  traveler 
a  steamer  specially  adapted  to  the  intricate  and  difficult  navi- 
gation of  the  Nile,  also  guides,  interpreters,  and  professors 
learned  in  the  mysterious  language  of  the  monuments  and 
ruins  which  tell  of  a  civilization  that  was  old  a  thousand 
years  before  the  dawn  of  the  Western  Roman  empire.  The 
party  consisted  of  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  their  son,  Sami 
Bey,  Emile  Brugsch,  Consul-General  Farman,  Chief  Sur- 
geon Cooke,  Lieutenant  Hadden,  Ensign  F.  A.  Wilner, 
and  a  correspondent  of  the  New  York  Herald — ten  in  all. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  January,  General  Grant 
and  party  reached  Siout,  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  and 
containing   twenty-five   thousand   inhabitants,   where  we 


lOO  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 


have  a  Vice-Consul,  the  city  being  at  some  distance  from 
the  river.  After  havin,^  received  a  call  from  Vice-Consul 
Wasif-el-Hayat,  a  Syrian,  they  all  drove  to  the  town.  It 
was  over  parched  fields,  through  a  country  parched  with 
the  drought,  but  in  more  favorable  years  blooming  like  a 
garden.  All  the  town  seemed  to  know  of  their  coming, 
for  wherever  they  went  great  crowds  swarmed  around,  and 
they  had  to  force  their  donkeys  through  masses  of  Arabs 
and  Egyptians,  of  all  ages  and  conditions.  The  stores  are 
little  holes  of  rooms,  in  front  of  which  the  trader  sits  and 
calls  upon  you  to  buy.  As  these  avenues  are  less  than 
six  feet,  one  can  imagine  the  trouble  had  in  making  prog- 
ress. The  town  has  some  fine  mosques  and  houses,  but 
in  the  main  is  like  all  the  towns  of  Upper  Egypt,  a  collec- 
tion of  mud  hovels.  A  grand  reception  was  given  by  the 
Vice-Consul.  The  dinner  was  regal  in  its  profusion  and 
splendor,  and  consisted  of  fully  twenty  courses,  all  well 
served.  When  it  was  concluded,  the  son  of  the  host  arose, 
and,  in  remarkably  clear  and  correct  English,  proposed  the 
General's  health.     We  give  a  fragment  of  this  speech: 

"  Long  have  we  heard  and  wondered,"  said  the  speaker, 
"  at  the  strange  progress  which  America  has  made  during 
this  past  century  by  which  she  has  taken  the  first  position 
among  the  most  widely  civilized  nations.  She  has  so 
quickly  improved  in  sciences,  morals  and  arts  that  the  world 
stands  amazed  at  this  extraordinary  progress,  which  sur- 
passes the  swiftness  of  lightning.  It  is  to  the  hard  work  of 
her  great  and  wise  men  that  all  this  advance  is  imputed,  those 
who  have  shown  to  the  world  what  wise,  courageous,  pat- 
riotic men  can  do.  Let  all  the  world  look  to  America  and 
follow  her  example — that  nation  which  has  taken  as  the 
basis  of  her  laws  and  the  object  of  her  undertakings  to 
maintain  freedom  and  equality  among  her  own  people,  and 
secure  them  for  others,  avoiding  all  ambitious  schemes 
which  would  draw  her  into  bloody  and  disastrous   wars. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  lOI 

and  trying  by  all  means  to  maintain  peace  internally  and 
externally.  The  only  two  great  wars  upon  which  she  has 
engaged  were  entered  upon  for  pure  and  just  purposes  — 
the  first  for  releasing  herself  from  the  English  yoke  and 
erecting  her  independence,  and  the  other  for  stopping  slav- 
ery and  strengthening  the  union  of  the  States;  and  well 
we  know  that  it  was  mainly,  under  God,  due  to  the  talent, 
courage  and  wisdom  of  his  excellency.  General  Grant,  that 
the  latter  of  the  two  enterprises  was  brought  to  a  success- 
ful issue."  The  speech  closed  by  a  tribute  to  the  Gen- 
eral and  the  Khedive.  General  Grant  said  in  response 
that  nothing  in  his  whole  trip  had  so  impressed  him  as  this 
unexpected,  this  generous  welcome  in  the  heart  of  Egypt. 
He  had  anticipated  great  pleasure  in  his  visit  to  Egypt,  and 
the  anticipation  had  been  more  than  realized.  He  thanked 
his  host,  and  especially  the  young  man  who  had  spoken  of 
him  with  so  high  praise,  for  their  reception.  The  dinner 
dissolved  into  coffee,  conversation  and  cigars. 

On  the  2 1st,  at  the  town  of  Girgel,  the  General  and 
party  take  to  the  donkeys  and  make  a  trip  under  the  broil- 
ing hot  sun,  to  the  ruined  city  of  Abydos.  This  was  the 
oldest  city  in  Egypt.  It  went  back  to  Menes,  the  first  of 
the  Egyptian  Kings,  who  reigned,  according  to  Egyptian 
history,  four  thousand  five  hundred  years  before  Christ. 
The  ruins  are  on  a  grand  scale.  Abydos  is  a  temple 
which  the  Khedive  is  rescuing  from  the  sand.  Here, 
according  to  tradition,  was  buried  the  god  Osiris.  To 
the  ancient  Egyptian,  the  burial  place  of  that  god  was 
as  sacred  as  Mecca  to  the  Moslems,  or  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre was  to  the  Mediaeval  Christians.  The  govern- 
ment is  trying  to  reclaim  this  temple,  and  has  been 
digging  in  all  directions.  One  excavation  over  fifty  feet 
deep  was  visited.  Remnants  of  an  old  house  or  tomb  could 
be  seen.  Millions  of  fragments  of  broken  pottery  around. 
The  strata,  that  age  after  age  had  heaped  upon  the  buried 


I02  GENEKAI.    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

city,  were  plainly  visible.  The  city  was  really  a  city  of 
tombs.  In  the  ancient  clays  the  devout  Egyptian  craved 
burial  near  the  tomb  of  Osiris,  and  so  for  centuries  their  re- 
mains were  brought  to  Abydos  from  all  parts  of  Egypt. 
Lunch  was  taken  with  Salib,  an  Arabian,  who  had  for 
twenty  years  been  working  at  the  excavations,  working 
with  so  much  diligence  that  he  had  become  entirely  blind, 
and  it  is  now  his  only  comfort  to  wander  through  the  ruins, 
direct  the  workmen,  and  trace  with  his  finger  many  a  loved 
inscription  that  his  zeal  has  brought  to  light.  Salib  lives 
near  the  ruin,  on  a  pension  allowed  by  the  Khedive.  After 
an  hour's  rest,  having  ridden  fifteen  miles  on  donkeys  and 
walked  two  or  three  in  the  sand,  the  visitors  returned  to 
the  shelter  and  repose  of  the  cabin  of  the  Vandalia. 

We  next  find  our  visitors  at  Thebes,  once  a  city  that 
covered  both  banks  of  the  Nile,  was  known  to  Homer  as  the 
city  of  the  hundred  gates.  It  had  a  population  of  three 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  sent  out  twenty  thousand 
armed  chariots.  It  was  famed  for  its  riches  and  its  splendor 
until  it  was  besieged.  Here  was  the  temple  of  Memnon  and 
its  colossal  statues,  and  the  palace  temple  of  the  great  Ram- 
eses,  the  only  ruin  in  Egypt  known  to  be  the  home  of  a 
King;  the  columns  of  the  Luxor,  and  the  stupendous  ruins 
of  Kanark,  and  the  tombs  of  the  kings.  Visiting  the  town 
of  Luxor,  a  collection  of  houses  built  upon  the  ruins  of  the 
old  temple,  erected  over  three  thousand  years  ago;  there  is 
a  fine  obelisk  here,  the  companion  to  the  one  now  standing 
in  the  Place  Concordia,  Paris;  also  a  statue  of  Rameses,  of 
colossal  size,  now  broken  and  partly  buried  in  the  sand. 
Next  morning  the  party  crossed  the  river,  and  prepared 
for  a  ride  to  visit  Memnon  statues;  arrived  at  their  destina- 
tion, they  found  all  that  is  left  of  Memnonism  are  the  two 
colossal  statues.  A  good  part  of  the  base  is  buried  in  the 
earth,  but  they  loom  up  over  the  plain,  and  can  be  seen  miles 
and  miles  away.    Some  idea  of  their  size  can  be  formed, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I03 

when  it  is  known  that  the  statue  measures  eighteen  feet 
three  inches  across  the  shoulders,  sixteen  feet  six  inches 
from  the  top  of  the  shoulder  to  the  elbow,  and  the  portions 
of  the  body  in  due  proportion.  After  examining  these 
statues  aikl  resting  a  lialf  hour,  they  visited  the  temple  of 
Medesnet  Habro,  one  of  the  great  temj^les  of  Thebes, 
and  the  palace  temple  of  the  great  Rameses,  who  lived 
thirteen  hundred  years  before  Christ,  and  is  suj^posed  by 
some  to  be  the  Pharaoh  that  brought  the  plagues  upon 
Egypt.  The  walls  of  the  palace  are  covered  with  inscrip- 
tions. After  carefully  exploring  these  interesting  ruins,  and 
luncheon  being  served  in  one  of  the  old  King's  apartments, 
our  party  returned  by  the  route  of  the  early  morning. 
Next  morning,  after  a  ride  of  forty  minutes  from  Luxor,  our 
party  were  at  the  ruined  temj^le  of  Kanark,  built  in  the 
days  of  Abraham.  It  is  hard  to  realize  that  in  the  infinite 
and  awful  past,  in  the  days  when  the  Lord  came  down  to 
the  earth  and  communed  with  men  and  gave  His  command- 
ments, these  columns  and  statues,  these  plinths  and  entabla- 
tures, these  mighty,  bending  walls,  upon  which  chaos  has. 
put  its  seal,  were  the  shrines  of  a  nation's  faith  and  sover- 
eignty ;  yet  this  is  all  told  in  stone. 

Kanark,  which  was  not  only  a  temple,  but  one  in  the 
series  of  temples  which  constituted  Thebes,  is  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  river,  a  mile  or  two  from  the  temple  of 
Luxoi.  The  front  wall  or  propylon  is  370  feet  broad,  50 
feet  deep,  and  the  standing  tower  140  feet  high.  Leading 
up  to  this  main  entrance  is  an  avenue,  lined  with  statues  and 
sphinxes,  200  feet  long.  When  you  enter  this  gate,  you 
enter  an  open  court-yard  275  feet  by  329.  There  is  a  cor- 
rider  or  cloister  on  either  side;  in  the  middle  a  double 
line  of  columns,  of  which  only  one  remains.  We  novr 
come  to  another  wall  or  propylon,  as  large  as  the  entrance, 
and  enter  the  great  hall  —  the  most  magnificent  ruin  in 
Egypt.     The  steps  of  the  door  are  40  feet  by  10.     The 


104  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

room  is  a  170  feet  by  329,  and  the  roof  was  supported  by 
134  columns.  These  cohnnns  are  all  orneiirly  all  standing, 
but  the  roof  has  gone.  Twelve  are  62  feet  high  without 
the  plinth,  and  1 1  feet  6  inches  in  diameter.  One  hundred 
and  twenty-two  are  43  feet  5  inches  in  height,  and  28  feet 
in  circumference.  They  were  all  brilliantly  colored,  and 
some  of  them  retain  their  colors  still;  and  you  can  well 
imagine  what  nuist  have  been  the  blaze  of  light  and  color, 
when  the  kings  and  priests  passed  through  in  solemn  pro- 
cession. We  pass  through  another  gate  into  an  open  court. 
Here  is  an  obelisk  in  granite  75  feet  high,  and  the  fragments 
of  another,  its  companion.  The  inscriptions  on  them  are 
as  clear  as  though  they  had  been  cut  yesterday,  so  gentle 
is  this  climate  in  its  dealings  with  time.  They  celebrate 
the  victories  and  virtues  of  the  kings  who  reigned  1700 
years  before  Christ,  and  promise  the  kings  in  the  name  of 
the  immortal  gods  that  their  glory  shall  live  for  ages. 
We  pass  into  another  chamber  very  much  in  ruins,  and 
see  another  obelisk,  92  feet  high  and  8  feet  square  —  the 
largest  in  the  world.  This  monument  commemorates  the 
virtues  of  the  king's  daughter  —  womanly  and  queenly  vir- 
tues, which  met  their  reward,  let  us  hope,  thirty-five  cen- 
turies ago.  One  may  form  some  idea  of  what  the  Egyp- 
tians could  do  in  the  way  of  mechanics  and  engineering, 
when  it  is  known  that  this  obelisk  is  a  smgle  block  of 
granite,  that  it  was  brought  from  the  quarry,  miles  and 
miles  away,  erected  and  inscribed,  in  seven  months.  The 
next  room  was  the  sanctury,  the  holy  of  holies,  and  is  now 
a  mass  of  rubbish  requiring  nimble  feet  to  climb.  We 
scramble  over  stones  and  sand,  until  we  come  to  what  was 
the  room  where  King  Amenophis  III.,  who  lived  sixteen 
centuries  before  Christ,  was  represented  as  giving  offerings 
to  fifty-six  of  his  royal  predecessors.  The  hall  is  a  ruin, 
and  some  French  Vandals  carried  off  the  tablet  —  one  of 
the  most  valuable  in  Egypt  —  to  Paris.     Altogether  the 


DOWN  THE  NILE. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  IO5 

building  alone  was  i,io8  feet  long,  and  about  300  feet  wide, 
the  circuit  around  the  outside,  according  to  a  Roman  histo- 
rian who  saw  it  in  its  glory,  being  about  a  mile  and  a  half 

This  was  the  temple,  but  the  temple  was  only  a  part. 
There  were  three  avenues  leading  from  it  to  the  other  tem- 
ples; these  avenues  were  lined  with  statues,  large  and  small, 
generally  of  the  Sphinx.  Some  distance  from  the  temple 
is  a  pool  of  water,  known  as  the  Sacred  Lake.  When  an 
Egyptian  died  and  was  embalmed,  his  body  was  brought 
to  the  lake,  where,  if  the  deceased  had  lived  worthily,  the 
body  was  sprinkled  with  water  from  the  lake  by  the  priests, 
and  was  carried  across  to  the  other  shore,  and  removed 
from  there  to  the  catacombs. 

Wherever  we  find  walls  we  have  inscriptions.  The  in- 
scriptions are  in  hieroglyphic  language  —  a  language  as 
clear  to  scholars  now  as  the  Latin  or  Sanscrit.  They  tell  of 
battles  and  the  glory  of  the  King  Rameses,  who  is  supposed 
to  be  the  Sesostris  of  the  Greeks.  We  see  him  leading  his 
men  to  attack  a  fortified  place.  Again  we  see  him  leading 
foot  soldiers  and  putting  an  enemy  to  the  sword.  We  see  him 
leading  his  captives  as  an  offering  to  the  gods,  and  offering 
not  only  prisoners,  but  booty  of  great  value.  The  group 
of  prisoners  are  rudely  done,  but  you  see  the  type  of  the 
race  cleai-ly  outlined.  We  trace  these  types,  and  thus  learn 
of  the  warlike  achievements  of  this  monarch  whose  fame 
is  carved  all  over  Egypt,  and  about  whose  name  there  is 
an  interesting  debate.  Again  and  again  these  war  themes 
are  repeated,  one  king  after  another  reciting  his  conquests 
and  his  virtues,  wars  and  treaties  of  peace.  It  seemed  in 
the  building  of  these  temples  that  the  intention  was  to 
make  the  walls  inonumental  records  of  the  achievements 
of  various  reigns.  When  the  walls  were  covered,  or  a  king 
wished  to  be  especially  gracious  to  the  priests,  or,  as  is  more 
probable,  desired  to  employ  his  soldiers,  he  would  build  a 
new  wing  or  addition  to  the  temple  already  existing,  striv- 


I06  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

ing,  if  possible,  to  make  his  own  addition  more  magnificent 
than  those  of  his  predecessors.  In  this  way  came  the  great 
temple  of  Karnak.  As  a  consequence,  these  stupendous, 
inconceivable  ruins  were  not  the  work  of  one  prince  or  one 
generation,  but  of  many;  and  as  there  was  always  some- 
thing to  add,  and  always  a  new  ambition  coming  into  play, 
we  find  these  temples,  tombs,  pyramids  and  obelisks,  all 
piled  one  upon  another,  all  inspired  by  the  one  sentiment, 
and  all  telling  the  same  story.  Here  are  the  records,  and 
here  are  the  ruins.  If  the  records  read  like  a  tale  of  en- 
chantment, these  ruins  look  the  work  of  gods.  The  world 
does  not  show,  except  where  we  have  evidences  of  the  con- 
vulsions of  nature,  a  ruin  as  vast  as  that  of  Karnak,  Let 
the  reader  imagine  a  city  covering  two  banks  of  the  Hud- 
son, running  as  far  as  the  Battery  to  Yonkers  and  back, 
seven  miles,  all  densely  built,  and  you  have  an  idea  of  the 
extent  of  Thebes.  But  this  will  only  give  you  an  idea  of 
size.  The  buildings  were  not  Broadways  and  Fifth  Av- 
enues, but  temples  and  colossal  monuments  and  tombs,  the 
greatness  of  which,  and  the  skill  and  the  patience  neces- 
sary to  build  them,  exciting  our  wonder  to-day.  Thebes 
in  its  day  must  have  been  a  wonder  of  the  world  —  even  of 
the  ancient  world,  which  knew  Nineveh  and  Babylon. 
To-day  all  that  remains  are  a  few  villages  of  mud  huts,  a 
few  houses  in  stone,  flying  consular  flags,  a  plain  here  and 
there  strewed  with  ruins,  and  under  the  sand  ruins  even 
more  stupendous  than  those  we  now  see. 

At  Keneh  the  General  and  his  party  landed  and  in- 
spected the  town,  making  several  purchases.  The  Pacha 
of  the  province,  learning  that  so  illustrious  a  visitor  was  in 
his  domain,  sent  couriers  at  once  to  invite  the  General  to  his 
palace,  which  was  accepted.  This  palace  was  a  low  brick 
building,  like  a  barracks.  The  visitors  were  shown  into  the 
reception  chamber,  and  ranged  on  the  divan.  There  was  a 
long  waiting,  when  the  Governor  appeared,  a  stout,  pleas- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I07 

ant  looking,  gray  mustached  soldier,  in  his  full  uniform  of 
a  general.  He  received  the  General  with  courtesy,  and 
there  was  the  usual  exchange  of  compliments;  then  came 
the  coffee  and  the  pipes,  and  the  adieu.  The  Governor  ac- 
companied General  Grant  in  his  return  walk,  calling  upon 
the  German  Consul,  who  had  waylaid  him  and  begged  that 
he  would  honor  his  house.  This  officer  lived  in  style  ap- 
proaching splendor,  and  when  his  visitors  were  served  with 
coffee  and  pipes  they  noticed  that  the  pipestems  were 
amber  garnished  with  diamonds,  and  the  coffeecups  were 
of  the  finest  porcelain  in  cases  of  silver  and  gold.  These 
ceremonies  over,  the  General  and  party  returned  to  tlie 
boat,  through  a  gust  of  sand. 

At  Assouan,  a  town  of  four  thousand  inhabitants, 
five  hundred  and  eighty  miles  south  of  Cairo  and  seven 
hundred  and  thirty  from  the  Mediteranean,  General 
Grant  and  party  intended  to  end  their  journey.  Assouan 
is  the  frontier  station  of  Old  Egypt,  on  the  boundary  of 
Nubia,  and  supposed  to  lay  directly  under  the  equator.  In 
the  ancient  days  the  town  was  a  quarry,  and  here  were  found 
the  stones  which  became  obelisks,  temples  and  tombs. 
When  Islam  was  marching  to  conquer  the  world,  the  Sar- 
acens made  a  town  here  and  an  outpost,  and  for  years  was 
the  battlefield  in  the  constant  strifes  and  schisms  between 
Nubian  and  Egyptian.  At  Assouan  the  aspect  of  the  tour 
changes;  we  see  the  Nubian  type,  the  predominance  of  the 
Negro.  The  people  seem  happy  enough.  They  are 
sparing  of  clothes,  live  on  sugar  cane,  and  lie  in  the  sun  — 
a  happy,  laughing,  idle,  dirty,  good  humored  race. 

Next  day  General  Grant  visited  Philae,  situated  on  an 
island  at  the  foot  of  the  first  cataract  of  the  Nile.  It  was  by 
far  the  most  interesting  and  picturesque  ruin  that  our  party 
had  seen.  The  island  is  green,  and  the  date  palms  of  luxu- 
riant growth,  and,  unlike  other  portions  of  Egypt,  we  miss 
the  sand,  and  can  step  trippingly  over  stones  and  turf.    Th» 


I08  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

river  here  spreads  in  various  channels,  and  runs  over  rocks. 
One  channel  is  used  for  vessels  ascending  the  river;  the 
other  for  vessels  descending  the  stream.  The  river  is  nar- 
row, the  banks  are  steep,  and  the  stream  rolls  and  dashes 
like  a  sea,  the  waves  roaring  and  lashing  the  banks.  The 
danger  is  from  the  rocks  and  being  dashed  against  its 
banks. 

In  the  morning  the  boat's  prow  is  turned,  and  the  Gen- 
eral is  moving  back  toward  the  Vandalia.  On  his  return 
trip  the  General  stopped  over  night  at  Keneh,  saw  his  old 
friend  the  Governor,  stopped  an  hour  at  Siout,  and  on  the 
3d  of  February  reached  Memphis.  Here  are  the  tombs  of 
the  sacred  bull. 

It  was  believed  in  the  Egyptian  mythology  that  the 
god  Osiris  came  to  earth  and  allowed  himself  to  be  put  to 
death  in  order  that  the  souls  of  the  people  might  be  saved. 
After  his  death  there  was  a  resurrection,  and  the  immortal 
part  of  him  passed  into  a  bull,  called  Apis. 

The  ride  to  the  tombs  of  Memphis  was  a  pleasant  one. 
The  ruins  of  Memphis  are  two  or  three  tombs  and  the 
serapeum  or  mausoleum  of  the  sacred  bulls.  One  of  the 
tombs  being  open,  the  visitors  examined  it,  the  walls 
having  the  same  profuse  decoration  as  had  been  noted  at 
other  points,  entering  a  long,  arched  passage,  with  par- 
allel passages,  candles  having  been  placed  at  various  points. 
On  each  side  of  this  passage  were  the  tombs.  Each  tomb 
was  in  its  alcove ;  the  bull  was  placed  in  a  huge  sarcophagus, 
the  surface  finely  polished  and  covered  with  inscriptions. 
These  coffins  were  stupendous.  The  tombs  have  all  been 
violated  by  the  early  conquerors,  to  find  gold  and  silver. 
In  most  cases  the  cover  has  been  shoved  aside.  The 
inside  was  so  large  that  eight  or  ten  men  could  enter. 

After  finishing  this  study  of  the  tombs,  the  party  of  visit- 
ors rode  back  to  their  boat,  and  in  the  morning  steamed 
down  to  Cairo. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  IO9 

General  Grant  had  seen  the  Nile  much  more  rapidly 
than  is  the  custom. 

The  General  sent  for  the  captain,  and  thanked  him,  and 
made  him  a  handsome  present,  and  gave  presents  to  all  on 
the  boat,  including  the  crew. 

At  12  o'clock  the  boat  passed  the  bridge  and  moored 
at  the  wharf.  The  General  and  party  returned  to  the  pal- 
ace of  Kaser-el-Nousa,  where  he  remained  three  days,  and 
then  resumed  his  journey. 


CHAPTER  X. 


TURKEY  AND  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

General  Grant  and  party  arrived  at  Jaffa  on  the  morning 
of  Sunday,  February  lo,  having  spent  just  one  month  on 
the  Nile  and  vicinity.  Upon  landing,  the  visitors  at  once 
went  to  Vice-Consul  Hardegg,  and  there  found  welcome 
and  entertainment.  There  was  a  little  archway  of 
flowers  and  branches  over  the  road,  surmounted  by  the  in- 
scription, "Welcome,  General  Grant,"  and  all  the  town 
was  out  to  do  him  honor.  After  visiting  all  the  places  of 
interest.  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  with  four  of  the  officers 
of  the  Vandalia,  prepared  to  visit  the  Holy  City.  Having 
obtained  three  clumsy  open  w^agons,  each  drawn  by  three 
horses,  they  drove  out  of  the  town  into  the  plain  of  Sharon. 
It  was  too  early  in  the  season  to  see  Palestine  in  its  glory, 
but  the  plain  was  rich  and  fertile.  The  party  reached 
Ramleh  at  about  sundown,  and  remained  over  night,  resum- 
ing their  journey  at  six  in  the  morning.  Passing  from  the 
plain  of  Sharon  into  the  country  of  Joshua  and  Sampson,  the 
road  becomes  rough  and  stony,  and  the  carts  go  bumping, 
thumping  over  the  worst  road  in  the  world.  The  fertility  of 
Palestine  lies  in  the  plain  below.  Around  and  ahead,  the 
beauty  of  Palestine,  the  beauty  of  Nature  in  her  deso- 
lation; no  houses,  no  farms,  no  trace  of  civilization  but  the 
telegraph  poles.  The  first  biblical  view  is  the  ruins  of 
Gezer,  once  a  royal  city  of  Canaan.  Passing  through  the 
Kirjath  Jearim,  the  valley  of  Ajalon  and  the  scene  of  the 
great  battle  between  David  and  Goliath,  the  valley  is  deep 


TOUR     AROUND    THE    WORLD.  Ill 

and  the  brook  still  runs  a  swift  course.  This  was  the  last, 
ravine  this  side  of  the  heights  of  Jerusalem,  and  one  of  the 
strongest  natural  defenses  of  the  city.  At  this  point  Gen- 
eral Grant  was  met  by  a  troop  of  cavalry,  representatives 
from  all  of  the  Consulates,  delegations  from  the  Americans, 
Jews,  Armenians  and  Greeks,  resident  in  Jerusalem  — in  all 
quite  a  small  army — and,  instead  of  quietly  entering  the  city 
as  he  had  expected,  he  was  commanded  to  enter  as  a  con- 
queror, in  a  triumphal  manner. 

Arrived  at  the  city,  General  Grant  was  at  once  called 
upon  by  the  Pacha  and  the  Consuls.  The  Bishops  and  the 
Patriarchs  all  came  and  blessed  the  General  and  his  house. 
The  Pacha  sent  his  band  of  fifty  pieces  in  the  evening  to 
serenade  the  ex-President.  The  Pacha  also  gave  a  state 
dinner,  which  was  largely  attended.  Early  the  following 
morning  General  Grant  stole  away,  before  the  reception 
ceremonies,  and  walked  over  the  street  Via  Dolorosa,  con- 
secrated to  Christianity  as  the  street  over  which  Jesus 
carried  His  cross.  The  General  lived  while  in  Jerusalem 
^ithm  five  ininutes'  walk  of  Calvarv,  anci  within  sight  trom 
his  chamber.  The  first  place  of  interest  on  this  street  is 
the  Coptic  monastery.  Here  Christ  sank  under  the  weight 
of  the  cross.  At  the  ruins  of  the  Hospice  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John;  here  is  where  Jesus  addressed  the  women 
who  followed  him.  A  few  steps  further  and  we  are  at  the 
house  and  tomb  of  Veronica,  who  wiped  the  blood  from 
Jesus'  holy  brows,  and  left  His  image  on  her  napkin.  De- 
scending a  slipperv  path,  and  at  the  corner  is  the  house 
against  which  Christ  leaned,  overcome  by  agony.  You 
see  a  dent  in  the  stone.  This  dent  was  made  by  the  hand 
of  our  Lord,  as  He  stretched  it  out  to  support  His  burden. 
It  is  smooth  and  dark  with  the  kisses  of  millions  of  believ- 


ing lips. 


The  next  house  is  that  of  Dives,  the  rich  man.     At  this 
corner   Simon  of  Cvrene   took  the  cross  and  carried  it  a 


113  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

part  of  the  way.  In  front  of  the  house  of  Dives  is  a  stone, 
and  over  it  a  hovel.  The  hovel  w^as  the  house  of  the 
beggar;  the  stone  is  where  he  sat  in  quest  of  alms,  and 
under  this  archway  Jesus  stood  and  pronounced  the  para- 
ble which  is  found  in  the  sixteenth  chapter  of  Luke. 
Here  the  road  makes  another  bend,  and  we  pass  a  broken 
column,  that  must  at  one  time  have  been  a  stately 
ornament.  The  column  broke  where  Jesus  sank  upon 
it,  and  the  fissure  is  clear  and  deep.  We  keep  on  until  we 
come  to  a  church,  a  bright,  new  church,  with  an  arch  over- 
hansinsf  the  street.  This  is  the  church  of  Ecce  Homo.  It 
was  here  or  hereabouts  that  the  road  to  the  cross  began. 
There  is  a  barracks  on  the  site  of  Pilate's  judgment  hall. 
We  go  into  the  church.  Behind  the  altar  is  an  arch,  and 
under  this  arch  Pilate  stood  when  he  delivered  over  Jesus  to 
the  Jews  and  washed  his  hands  of  innocent  blood.  Here, 
In  an  enclosure,  was  the  whipping,  the  crowning  with 
thorns,  the  decoration  with  the  j^urple  robes,  and  here  also 
Jesus  took  up  the  cross,  which  He  carried  to  Calvary. 

We  can  readily  see,  as  we  retrace  our  way  up  the  Via 
Dolorosa,  that  it  must  have  been  a  rough  and  weary  road 
to  one  rent  and  torn  and  bleeding  and  crushed  under  the 
cruel  burden  of  the  cross.  Even  to  the  wavfarer,  in  full 
possession  of  his  faculties,  it  is  a  tedious  task  to  climb  the 
hill  of  Calvary. 

After  finishing  the  Via  Dolorosa,  the  visitors  kept  on 
outside  of  the  gates  and  over  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat. 
Crossing  the  brook  Kedron,  the  ver}'  brook  hallowed  by 
our  Lord's  holy  and  sorrowful  footsteps,  and  ascending  the 
hill  a  short  distance,  they  come  to  a  walled  garden.  Here 
Jesus  knelt  and  prayed,  and  made  holy  forever  the  Garden 
of  Gethsemane.  The  good  monk  gathered  some  flowers 
for  Mrs  Grant,  and  for  the  others  twigs  and  leaves  from 
the  "  Tree  of  Agony." 

The  party  climbed  the  Mount  of  Olives  to  the  summit, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  II3 

and  entered  the  chapel,  said  to  be  the  site  of  the  Ascension, 
now  a  Moslem  mosque.  From  its  minerets  one  can  look 
far  beyond  to  the  land  of  Moab,  the  valley  of  the  Jordan 
and  the  Dead  Sea.  Here  a  French  princess  has  erected  a 
tomb,  and  around  the  walls  of  which  is  the  Lord's  Prayer 
in  thirty-two  languages. 

Resuming  the  walk  over  a  hill,  they  came  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Bethany,  where  Jesus  lived  when  He  preached  in 
Jerusalem.  Here  was  Lazarus,  His  friend,  whom  He  raised 
from  the  tomb.  Here  lived  Mary  and  Martha,  whom 
Jesus  loved.  Riding  under  the  overhanging  ruins  of  the 
dwelling  in  which  Jesus  found  home,  shelter,  friendship, 
love,  they  walk  around  Bethany,  which  is  only  a  collec- 
tion of  ruins  and  hovels. 

Passing  over  the  graveyard  where  Lazarus  was  buried, 
they  continue  along  the  road  that  leads  to  Jerusalem  again, 
by  the  road  sloping  at  the  base  of  the  mountain.  It  was 
over  this  road  that  Jesus  rode  when  He  entered  Jerusalem 
on  an  ass.  At  the  head  of  the  hill,  Jesus  wept  over  the  city 
and  prophesied  its  destruction. 

Entering  the  city  by  the  Damascus  gate,  it  was  but  a 
few  minutes  before  General  Grant  and  party  reached  their 
hotel.  The  walk  had  been  a  long  and  weary  one,  yet  full 
of  interest,  every  moment  awakening  a  memory  of  the 
noblest  moment  of  life,  and  every  step  taken  had  been  over 
hallowed  ground. 

Leaving  Jerusalem,  they  visited  Damascus,  where  their 
stay  was  made  enjoyable  by  the  attention  of  the  Turkish 
officials. 

On  March  loth  General  Grant  and  party  arrived  at 
Athens,  and  were  escorted  by  three  Greek  ironclads,  a  large 
crowd  witnessing  the  landing.  On  the  9th  they  were  pre- 
sented to  the  King  and  Queen  of  Greece,  and  a  grand  ban- 
quet given  in  their  honor  on  the  loth.  The  ruins  of  the 
ancient  temples  and  the  Parthenon  were  brilliantly  illu- 
S 


114  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

minatcd.  On  the  13th  General  Grant  entertained  the  King 
of  Greece  at  hmcheon  on  board  the  United  States  Steamer 
Vandaha,  and  also  lunched  with  the  King  on  the  14th  at 
the  American  Legation.  The  General's  reception  had  been 
enthusiastic  and  hospitable. 

General  Grant  reached  Naples  on  Monday  evening,  and 
proceeded  at  once  to  Rome.  Here  he  was  visited  by 
Cardinal  INIcCloskey,  Lieutenant-General  Count  Sounaz, 
King  Humbert's  Aid-de-Camp,  and  all  the  dignitaries  of 
the  government,  diplomatic  agents,  and  prominent  citizens. 
On  the  25th,  Minister  Marsh  gave  a  grand  banquet  and 
soiree  in  honor  of  General  Grant.  The  foreign  ministers, 
members  of  the  cabinet,  and  most  of  the  American  resi- 
dents w^ere  present.  Several  days  were  spent  in  visiting 
places  of  Interest. 

On  May  5th,  General  Grant  an-ived  at  Turin,  where  he 
met  with  a  hearty  and  enthusiastic  reception,  and  on  the 
7th  returned  to  the  gay  French  capital.  On  Thursday  the 
Ex-President  paid  visits  to  President  McMahon,  the  Prince 
of  Wales,  Duc'd  Aosta,  the  Due  Saxe-Coburg,  the  Prefect 
of  the  Seine,  and  the  Prefect  of  Police.  On  Friday  he 
called  upon  the  English,  Turkish,  Swedish  and  Japanese 
"Ministers;  in  the  afternoon  he  drove  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 
and  witnessed  a  game  of  polo,  in  which  he  took  a  lively  in- 
terest. On  Saturdav  the  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  and  their 
son  visited  the  Exposition.  He  was  received  by  Chief 
Commissioner  McCormick  and  staff,  and  by  the  Commis- 
sioners from  the  various  States  of  the  Union,  Minister 
Noyes,  Consul-General  Torbert  and  wife,  and  the  leading 
ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  American  colony  in  Paris. 

The  American  marines  were  drawn  up  in  military 
array,  and  gave  the  party  a  military  salute  on  their  arrival 
at  the  American  section. 

The  General  and  his  party  then  examined  the  whole 
American  department  in  detail.     They  spent  a  good  deal 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I  15 

of  time  among  Tiffany's  exhibit,  where  Bonanza  Mackay's 
gorgeous  service  of  silver  plate,  which  cost  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  is  exhibited. 

Then  they  proceeded  to  the  machinery  department, 
where  the  General  was  placed  upon  a  square  American  plat- 
form —  that  of  the  Howe  scale.  General  Grant,  in  fact,  was 
weighed,  and  for  the  first  time  in  his  life  "found  wanting," 
having  lost  seventeen  pounds  by  his  Egyptian  trip. 

Mr.  Cunliffe  Owen  did  the  honors,  in  the  Prince  of 
Wales'  pavilion,  to  the  General  and  his  party. 

A  handsome  collation  was  served  in  the  Alimentation 
group.  No.  17,  of  the  American  department,  aftei  which 
the  party  proceeded  to  visit  the  other  sections. 

The  following  week.  General  Grant  was  the  object  of 
further  attention,  and  enjoyed  the  amenities  of  Paris  life  to 
the  full,  receiving  a  visit  from  President  McMahon  and  his 
wife.  Prince  Hassan  of  Egypt,  Prince  Albert  and  Prince 
Frederick  of  Austria,  Prince  and  Princess  of  Denmark- 
The  Comte  de  Paris  sent  his  boxes  at  the  Italian  for 
Thursday,  and  at  the  grand  opera  on  Friday.  He  dined 
with  Mr.  Ridge  way  on  Saturday. 

One  of  the  pleasant  things  of  the  week  was  General 
Grant's  visit  to  the  polo  grounds  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne. 
The  Prince  of  Wales  also  went  the  same  day.  They  wit- 
nessed a  very  interesting  game.  General  Grant  was  ac- 
companied by  his  family  and  ex-Minister  Beale.  They 
remained  an  hour. 

The  General  said  he  thought  the  game  might  be  intro- 
duced with  great  effect  into  the  cavalry  regiments  and  at 
West  Point,  as  a  good  school  of  horsemanship  for  young 
soldiers. 

The  third  week  of  General  Grant's  stay  in  Paris  was 
equally  as  pleasant,  and  every  attention  shown  him.  Mr. 
Morton,  the  banker,  gave  a  "  stag"  dinner  on  Monday,  and 
the  same  night  Mr.  Waddington,  the  minister  of  foreign 


Il6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

affairs,  gave  the  grandest  ball  of  the  season.  Five  thousand 
invitations  were  issued,  and  there  was  a  perfect  crush,  but 
the  costumes  of  the  ladies  were  something  even  for  a  man 
to  rave  about. 

On  Tuesday  the  American  artist,  Healy,  gave  a  ball. 
On  Wednesday  there  was  a  reception  and  ball  at  the  Min- 
istry of  Agriculture.  On  Friday  Mrs.  Hooper's  private 
theatricals  attracted  a  distinguished  party.  On  Saturday 
there  was  a  soiree  dajisatite  at  Mrs.  Wagner's,  and  on  Sun- 
day Prince  Orloff,  the  Russian  minister,  gave  a  grand 
dinner  to  General  Grant,  which  proved  to  be  one  of  the 
most  enjoyable  entertainments  given  in  his  honor.  These 
festivities  were  kept  up,  with  little  abatement,  until  the 
middle  of  June,  when  General  Grant  turned  his  eyes 
toward  the  northern  lands  of  Europe,  and  paid  his  respects 
to  his  friends  in  Paris,  and  bowed  himself  out  of  that  daz- 
zling sphere  of  dissipation,  to  recuperate  in  a  series  of  mild 
Dutch  festivities  —  mild  compared  to  the  mad  whirl  of  fes- 
tive Paris. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  the  Hague  in  safety,  and  was 
met  by  Minister  Birney,  and,  with  Mrs.  Grant,  took  up  his 
residence,  by  special  invitation,  in  the  latter  gentleman's 
house. 

Immediately  upon  the  ex-President's  arrival  —  almost 
before  he  had  time  to  repose  himself  after  his  journey — in- 
vitations began  to  pour  in  upon  him,  and  the  routine  of 
dinners,  receptions,  balls  and  visits  began  anew.  On 
Monday  evening  Minister  Birney  entertained  his  distin- 
quished  guest  at  a  splendid  dinner,  which  proved  to  be  one 
of  the  great  events  of  the  season.  Preparations  on  a  large 
scale  had  been  made  for  this  occasion,  which  was  a  grati- 
fying success  in  every  respect. 

All  the  members  of  the  diplomatic  corps  in  the  city  were 
present  at  this  dinner,  which  was  rendered  still  more  brill- 
iant by  the  presence  of  the  wives  and  lady   friends  of  the 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  11>J 

diplomats.  After  the  dinner,  which  went  off  joyously,  a 
splendid  reception  was  given,  in  which  the  court  circle,  with 
its  picturesque  retinue  of  noble  ladies  and  gentlemen,  most 
of  the  members  of  Parliament,  and  other  distinguished 
guests,  participated.  General  Grant  was,  of  course,  the 
centre  of  attraction,  and  was  treated  with  marked  deference 
and  honors.  His  manly,  soldier-like  bearing  was  admired 
on  all  sides,  and  every  one  was  desirous  of  making  his  ac- 
quaintance. The  reception  continued  until  the  small  hours 
of  morning,  and  was  thoroughly  enjoyable  from  beginning 
to  end. 

On  Tuesday  evening  asimilar  dinner  was  given  in  honor 
of  the  General  at  the  residence  of  the  Minister  of  For- 
eign Aflfairs,  Baron  de  Heckeven  de  Kell.  This  was  also 
followed  by  a  reception  no  less  brilliant  than  its  predecessor. 

On  the  same  day  General  Grant  accepted  an  invitation  to 
visit  His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Frederic,  uncle  of  the 
King.  He  chose  the  forenoon  for  the  purpose  of  paying 
his  respects  to  the  Prince,  who  entertained  him  generously 
at  a  private  dejeuner.  After  this  friendly  repast,  the  Prince 
ordered  his  carriage  and  had  his  guest  driven  through  the 
spacious  and  beautiful  grounds  of  the  estate.  A  call  was 
also  made  on  Prince  Alexander,  son  of  the  King. 

Each  day  was  destined  to  bring  its  separate  enjoyment. 
Wednesday  was  set  apart  for  a  parade  of  a  portion  of  the 
ti^oops  of  Holland,  and  the  General  was  invited  to  review 
these  sturdy  Dutch  soldiers,  whose  martial  bearing  im- 
pressed him  very  favorably.  A  large  number  of  distin- 
guished ladies  and  gentlemen  were  present  at  the  review, 
and  the  scene  was  exceedingly  picturesque  and  attractive. 
The  troops  looked  their  best,  and  marched  with  fine  pre- 
cision and  dignity. 

The  General  limited  his  stay  at  The  Hague,  although  he 
expressed  a  hope  that  he  might  return  there  before  his  de- 
parture.    He  then  took  the  train  for  Rotterdam,  where  he 


Il8  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

arrived  in  a  short  time.  He  was  received  by  the  Burgo- 
master of  that  city,  and  was  escorted  around  and  show^n  va- 
rious objects  of  interest  by  this  dignitary.  The  Burgomas- 
ter gave  a  dinner  in  his  honor,  to  which  a  great  many  of 
the  principal  citizens  were  invited.  The  affair  was  very 
social  and  cordial. 

On  Thursday  the  General  made  his  way  into  the  fa- 
mous city  of  Amsterdam,  where  he  was  greeted  by  throngs 
of  people,  who  welcomed  him  in  a  truly  enthusiastic  man- 
ner. Several  prominent  citizens  escorted  him  about,  and 
extended  to  him  an  invitation  for  dinner  on  Saturday  eve- 
ning. His  residence  in  Amsterdam,  although  necessarily 
short,  was  as  pleasant  as  could  have  been  desired. 

General  Grant's  flying  tour  on  Dutch  territory  was 
marked  by  attentions  as  gracious  and  as  flattering  as  any  he 
had  yet  received.  In  the  steady,  plodding  cities  of  Hol- 
land, the  phlegmatic  citizens  had  been  excited  to  enthusi- 
asm by  the  presence  of  the  ex-President,  and  signified  their 
admiration  of  his  character  and  achievements  by  crowd° 
ing  the  streets  which  he  passed. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


GRANT   IN    GERMANY,   NORWAY,    SWEDEN,    RUSSIA 

AND   AUSTRIA. 

On  Wednesday,  June  26,  General  Grant  and  party 
arrived  at  Berlin,  Minister  Taylor  having  met  them  at 
Stendahl,  sixty  miles  below  Berlin. 

On  the  evening  of  his  coming,  he  strolled  along  the 
Unter  den  Linden,  and  his  Berlin  visit  may  be  summed  up 
in  this  sentence,  that  he  walked  the  greater  part  of  each  day, 
and  there  was  not  a  quarter  of  Berlin  that  he  did  not  explore 
on  foot  with  an  energy  as  sightseer  which  no  amount 
of  exertion  seemed  to  diminish.  The  General  had  an 
early  interview  with  the  members  of  the  Congress  of 
great  diplomats  assembled  in  Berlin  to  settle  the  Eastern 
question. 

At  an  interview  with  Prince  Gortschakoff,  the  General,, 
in  company  with  Mr.  Taylor,  calling  at  the  Prince's  request 
(as  the  gout  prevented  the  Prince  calling  on  the  General)^ 
Gortschakoff  said  that  Russia  w^ould  be  glad  to  see  and 
welcome  the  General,  and  he  seemed  delighted  with  the 
visit.  Of  the  members  of  the  Congress,  Lord  Bcaconsfield, 
Lord  Salisbury,  M.  Waddington  and  Count  Corti  were 
known  to  the  General.  Mehemet  Ali  he  had  met  in 
Turkey.  Visits  were  exchanged  with  these  gentlemen  and 
with  the  other  members  of  the  Congress. 

Among  the  first  calls  left  on  the  General  was  that  of 
Prince  Bismarck,  and  as  it  did  not  find  him  at  home  it  was 
left  again.     As  the  General  was  anxious  to  see  the  Prince, 


I20  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

for  whose  character  and  services  he  had  so  high  an  admira- 
tion, he  returned  these  calls  at  once,  and  sent  His  Highness 
a  message  saying  that  he  would  make  his  visit  at  any  time 
that  would  suit  the  Prince,  whom  he  knew  to  be  a  busy 
and  an  ill  man. 

The  afternoon  at  four  was  the  hour  named  for  the  visit, 
and,  as  the  General  lives  within  a  few  moments'  walk  of  the 
Bismarck  Palace,  at  five  minutes  to  four  he  slowly  saun- 
tered through  the  Frederick  Place.  The  Frederick  Place 
is  a  small  square,  with  roads  and  flowers  and  some  famous 
old  trees,  laid  out  in  memory  of  the  great  Frederick.  It  is 
decorated  with  statues  of  his  leading  generals.  Eveiything 
runs  to  war  in  Germany,  and  the  prevailing  religion  is 
swordsmanship.  In  this  park  are  bronze  statues  of  Ziethen, 
Seidlitz,  Winterfeldt,  Keith,  Schwerin,  and  the  Prince  of 
Dessau.  Passing  out  of  the  park,  on  the  right,  is  the  palace 
and  home  of  the  famous  Prince  Bismarck.  An  iron  railinsf 
separates  it  from  the  street,  and  from  the  roof  the  flag  of  the 
Oerman  empire  floats  in  the  breeze. 

The  General  saunters  into  the  courtyard,  and  the  sen- 
tinels eye  him  a  moment  curiously,  and  then  present  arms. 
His  visit  had  been  expected,  but  certainly  an  ex-President 
of  the  United  States  would  come  in  a  carriage  and  six,  and 
not  quietly  on  foot.  Throwing  away  a  half-smoked  cigar  as 
he  raises  his  hat  in  honor  of  the  salute,  he  advances  to  the 
door,  but  before  he  has  time  to  ring,  two  servants  throw 
them  open,  and  he  passes  into  an  open  marble  hall.  Of  all 
princes  now  living,  this  is,  perhaps,  the  most  renowned  — 
this  of  Bismarck-Schinhausen  —  who  comes  with  a  swing-- 
ing,  bending  gait  through  the  opened  and  opening  doors, 
with  both  hands  extended,  to  meet  the  General.  You  note 
that  time  has  borne  heavily  on  the  Prince  these  past  few 
years.  The  iron-grey  hair  and  mustache  are  nearly  white; 
there  is  weariness  in  the  gait,  a  tired  look  in  the  face.  But 
all  the  lines  are  there  that  are  associated  with  Bismarck ;  for 


WADDINGTON, 
^^„  France. 

GORTCHAKOFF, 

Russia, 


BISMARCK, 

Germany. 


EUROPEAN  PRIME  MINISTERS. 


BEACONSFIELD, 

.  ^,„  England. 

ANDRASSY, 

Austria. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  121 

if  ever  manhood,  courage,  intellect  are  written  on  a  man's 
face  by  his  Creator,  they  are  written  on  this  face  of  the 
German  Chancellor.  There  is  the  lofty  station,  which 
seems  to  belong  to  the  Bismarck  stamp  of  men,  the  bold 
outlines  of  the  brain,  under  which  empires  have  found  their 
fate,  the  frank,  intrepid,  penetrating  eye,  and  in  that  firmly 
knit  mouth  the  courage  of  the  Saxon  race.  The  Prince 
wore  an  officer's  uniform,  and,  on  taking  the  General's 
hand,  said,  "  Glad  to  welcome  General  Grant  to  Germany." 

The  General  answered  that  there  was  no  incident  in  his 
German  visit  that  more  interested  him  than  this  opportu- 
nity of  meeting  the  Prince.  Bismarck  expressed  surprise 
at  seeing  the  General  so  young  a  man,  but  on  a  compari- 
son of  ages  it  was  found  that  Bismarck  was  only  seven 
years  the  General's  senior. 

"  That,"  said  the  Prince,  "  shows  the  value  of  a  military 
life;  for  here  you  have  the  frame  of  a  young  man,  while  I 
feel  like  an  old  man." 

The  General,  smiling,  announced  that  he  was  at  that 
period  of  life  when  he  could  •l:iave  no  higher  compliment 
than  being  called  a  young  man.  By  this  time  the  Prince 
had  escorted  the  General  to  a  chair. 

It  was  his  library  or  study,  and  an  open  window  looked 
out  ujDon  a  beautiful  park,  upon  which  the  warm  June  sun 
was  shining.  This  is  the  private  park  of  the  Radziwill 
Palace,  which  is  now  Bismarck's  Berlin  home.  The  library 
is  a  large,  spacious  room,  the  walls  a  gray  marble,  and  the 
furniture  plain.  In  one  corner  is  a  large  and  high  writing- 
desk,  where  the  Chancellor  works,  and  on  the  varnished 
floors  a  few  rugs  are  thrown.  The  Prince  speaks  English 
with  precision,- but  slowly,  as  though  lacking  in  practice, 
now  and  then  taking  refuge  in  a  French  word,  but  showing 
a  thorough  command  of  the  lano-uacre. 

After  inquiring  after  the  health  of  General  Sheridan, 
who  was  a  fellow-campaigner  in  France,  and    became  a 


122  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 


great  friend  of  Bismarck's,  they  discussed  the  Eastern  ques- 
tion, military  armament  and  strength,  and  the  late  atrocious 
attempt  to  assassinate  the  Emperor,  giving  the  two  great 
men  an  opportunity  to  discuss  this  phase  of  socialism.  In 
speaking  of  this  attempt  on  the  life  of  the  Emperor,  the 
Prince  paid  this  glowing  tribute  to  the  Emperor: 

"  It  is  so  strange,  so  strange  and  so  sad.  Here  is  an  old 
man  —  one  of  the  kindest  old  gentlemen  in  the  world  —  and 
yet  they  must  try  and  shoot  him!  There  never  was  a  more 
simple,  more  genuine,  more  —  what  shall  I  say?  —  more 
humane  character  than  the  Emperor's.  He  is  totally  un- 
like men  born  in  his  station,  or  many  of  them,  at  least.  You 
know  that  men  who  come  into  the  world  in  his  rank,  born 
princes,  are  apt  to  think  themselves  of  another  race  and 
another  world.  They  are  apt  to  take  small  account  of  the 
wishes  and  feelings  of  others.  All  their  education  tends  to 
deaden  the  human  side.  But  this  Emperor  is  so  much  of  a 
man  in  all  things !  He  never  did  any  one  a  wrong  in  his 
life.  He  never  wounded  any  one's  feelings;  never  imposed 
a  hardship!  He  is  the  most  genial  and  winning  of  men  — 
thinking  always,  anxious  always  for  the  comfort  and  well- 
fare  of  his  people,  of  those  around  him.  You  cannot  con- 
ceive a  finer  type  of  the  noble,  courteous,  charitable  old 
gentleman,  with  every  high  quality  of  a  prince,  as  well  as 
every  virtue  of  a  man.  I  should  have  supposed  that  the 
Emperor  could  have  walked  alone  all  over  the  Empire 
without  harm,  and  yet  they  must  try  and  shoot  him." 

The  Prince  asked  the  General  when  he  might  have  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  Mrs.  Grant.  The  General  answered 
that  she  would  receive  him  at  any  convenient  hour. 

"Then,"  said  the  Prince,  "I  will  come  to-morrow 
before  the  Congress  meets." 

Both  gentlemen  arose,  and  the  General  renewed  the  ex- 
pression of  his  pleasure  at  having  seen  a  man  who  was 
so  well  known  and  so  highly  esteemed  in  America. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I23 

"  General,"  answered  the  Prince,  "  the  pleasure  and  the 
honor  are  mine.  Germany  and  America  have  always  been 
in  so  friendly  a  relation  that  nothing  delights  us  more  than 
to  meet  Americans,  and  especially  an  American  who  has 
done  so  much  for  his  country,  and  whose  name  is  so  much 
honored  in  Germany  as  your  own." 

The  Prince  and  the  General  walked  side  by  side  to  the 
door,  and  after  shaking  hands  the  General  passed  into  the 
square.  The  guard  presented  arms,  and  the  General  lit 
a  fresh  cigar  and  slowly  strolled  home. 

"  I  am  glad  I  have  seen  Bismarck,"  he  remarked.  "  He 
is  a  man  whose  manner  and  bearing  fully  justify  the  opin- 
ions one  forms  of  him.  What  he  says  about  the  Emperor 
was  beautifully  said,  and  should  be  known  to  all  the  Ger- 
mans and  those  who  esteem  Germany." 

Notable,  also,  among  incidents  of  the  Berlin  stay,  was  a 
quiet,  informal  reception  given  to  the  General  by  Mr.  Tay- 
lor, American  Minister.  ISIr.  Taylor  was  not  aware  of  the 
General's  coming  until  a  day  or  two  before  his  arrival,  and 
the  news  found  him  an  ill  man.  Then  he  had  had  no  per- 
sonal acquaintance  with  the  General,  and  if  his  home 
political  sympathies  ran  in  one  direction  more  than  another 
it  was  not  in  the  direction  of  the  General.  Mr.  Taylor 
regretted  that  the  state  of  mourning  in  which  the  attempt 
on  the  Emperor's  life  had  thrown  Berlin,  and  the  presence 
of  the  Congress,  prevented  his  entertaining  the  General  in 
a  more  ostentatious  manner.  But  he  made  all  the  arrange- 
ments with  the  Court,  and  gave  the  General  an  evening 
party,  which  all  the  Americans  in  Berlin  attended.  The 
evening  was  enjoyable  and  interesting.  The  next  day  there 
was  a  small  dinner  party  at  the  Embassy,  and,  in  addition, 
there  was  a  sfreat  deal  of  groins:  around  and  seeing  Berlin 
in  a  quiet  way,  which  form  of  foreign  life  the  General  en- 
joys beyond  any  other. 


134  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

The  Crown  Prince  sent  word  to  General  Grant  asking 
him  to  name  an  hour  wlien  he  would  review  Some  troops 
in  all  arms.  The  General  answered  that  any  hour  most 
convenient  for  the  troops  would  be  2:)leasant  to  him.  So  it 
was  arranged  at  half-past  seven  in  the  morning.  The 
General  asked  Mr.  Coleman,  of  the  Legation,  to  be  one  of 
his  company.  It  had  rained  all  night,  a  heavy,  pitching, 
blowing  rain,  and  when  the  morning  came  the  prayers 
which  Mr.  Coleman  had  been  offering  up  all  night  for 
better  weather  were  found  to  have  availed  not.  The 
General  himself  had  a  severe  cold  and  a  chill,  which  had 
been  hanging  over  him  for  two  days,  and  when  he  arose 
he  could  scarcely  speak.  There  was  a  suggestion  that  the 
review  be  postponed.  But  the  troops  were  under  way,  and 
the  General  would  not  hear  of  the  suggestion.  The  place 
selected  was  the  Tempelhof,  a  large  open  field  outside  of 
Berlin.  When  General  Grant  drove  on  the  ground  in  a 
palace  carriage  he  was  met  by  the  General  commanding 
the  Berlin  troops  and  a  large  staff.  A  horse  from  the  royal 
stables  was  in  waiting,  but  the  General  was  suffering  so 
much  that  he  would  not  mount.  The  rain  kept  its  wild 
way,  and  the  wind  swept  it  in  gusts  across  the  open  field, 
so  much  so  that  in  a  few  moments,  even  with  the  protection 
of  a  carriage,  the  occupants  were  all  thoroughly  drenched. 

The  manoeuvres  went  on  all  the  same.  There  was  a 
sham  fight  with  infantry,  all  the  incidents  of  a  real  battle 
—  moving  on  the  flank,  in  skirmish  line,  firing  and  re- 
treating, firing  and  advancing.  Then  came  the  order  to 
fix  bayonets  and  charge  at  double  quick,  the  soldiers  shout- 
ing and  cheering  as  they  advanced  with  that  ringing  cheer 
which,  somehow,  no  one  hears  but  in  Saxon  lands,  and 
which  stirs  the  blood  like  a  trumpet.  General  Grant  was 
attended  by  Major  Igel,  an  intelligent  officer.  The  General 
complimented  the  movements  of  the  troops  highly. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  12^ 

After  the  manoeuvres  and  the  sham  fight,  there  was  a 
march  past,  the  General  reviewing  the  Hne  with  bared 
head,  to  which  the  pitiless  rain  showed  no  mercy. 

"  These  are  fine  soldiers,"  he  said,  and  thanked  the  com- 
mander for  his  courtesy. 

Then  came  artillery  practice,  the  guns  firing  and  sweep- 
ing over  the  field  in  a  whirling,  mad  pace.  This  was  fol- 
lowed  by  an  artillery  march  past,  which  the  General 
reviewed  on  foot,  the  rain  still  beating  down. 

Then  came  cavalry.  This  was  the  most  interesting 
phase  of  the  display,  especially  one  movement,  where  the 
battalion  broke  into  disorder  and  rallied  aofain. 

"This,"  said  the  Major,  "we  do  to  accustom  our  men  to 
the  contingency  of  disorder  on  the  field,  and  enable  every 
man  to  know  how  to  take  care  of  himself." 

The  movement  was  effective  and  beautiful,  and  showed, 
said  the  General,  the  highest  state  of  discipline.  It  was 
followed  by  a  charge  and  a  march  past,  the  General,  on  foot, 
reviewing,  and  the  rain  whirling  like  a  gust. 

After  this  they  all  drove  to  a  military  hospital  and 
inspected  it.  Then  to  the  quarters  of  a  cavalry  regiment, 
under  the  command  of  the  Prince  of  Hohenzollern.  The 
General  was  received  by  the  officers,  and  went  carefully 
through  the  quarters.  After  inspection  there  was  a  quiet 
mess-room  lunch  and  a  good  deal  of  military  talk,  which 
showed  that  the  General  had  not  forgotten  his  trade. 

The  General,  at  the  close  of  the  lunch,  asked  permis- 
sion to  propose  the  prosperity  of  the  regiment  and  the 
health  of  the  Colonel.  It  was  a  regiment  of  which  any 
army  would  be  proud,  and  he  hoped  a  day  of  trial  would 
never  come;  but,  if  it  did,  he  was  sure  it  would  do  its  part 
to  maintain  the  ancient  success  of  the  Prussian  army.  He 
also  desired  to  express  his  thanks  to  the  Crown  Prince  for 
the  pains  that  had  been  taken  to  show  him  this  sample  of 
his  magnificent  army. 


126  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

The  Prince  answered  in  German,  which  Major  Igel 
translated,  tliat  he  was  much  compHmented  by  the  Gen- 
eral's toast,  and  that  the  annals  of  his  regiment  would 
always  record  the  pride  they  felt  in  having  had  at  their 
mess  and  as  their  guest  so  illustrious  a  leader.  This  closed 
the  military  services  of  the  day. 

About  midday  a  coupe  stopped  at  the  door  of  Minister 
Taylor's  residence,  and  Prince  Bismarck  descended  and 
touched  his  hat  to  the  crowd.  He  wore  a  full  military  uni- 
form, a  gilded  helmet  covering  his  brows,  and  was  con- 
ducted to  the  apartments  of  the  General,  who  presented  the 
Prince  to  his  wife  and  Mrs.  Taylor,  the  wife  of  the  Minis- 
ter. The  Prince  expressed  again  his  satisfaction  at  seeing 
General  Grant  and  his  wife  in  Germany,  and  hoped  Mrs. 
Grant  would  carry  home  the  best  impressions  of  the  coun- 
try. It  had  been  raining,  and  the  skies  were  heavy  with 
clouds,  and  the  General  himself,  suffering  from  a  cold,  had 
been  sitting  in  a  carnage  for  two  hours,  the  rain  beating 
in  his  face,  watching  horsemen,  artillery  and  infantry  march 
and  countermarch  over  me  Tempelhof  grounds.  Altogether 
it  had  been  a  trying  day,  and  everybody  felt  cheerless  and 
damp.  But  Mrs.  Grant  has  a  nature  that  would  see  as 
much  sunshine  in  Alaska  as  in  Italy,  on  whose  temper  rain 
or  snow  never  makes  an  impression,  and  she  told  His  High- 
ness how  delighted  she  was  with  Germany,  with  Potsdam 
and  the  Crown  Prince,  and  more  especially  the  Crown 
Princess,  whose  motherly,  womanly  ways  had  won  quite  a 
place  in  her  womanly,  motherly  heart.  They  had  had 
pleasant  talks  about  children  and  households  and  wedding 
anniversaries,  and  domestic  manners  in  Germany,  and  had 
no  doubt  exchansred  a  world  of  that  sweet  and  sacred  in- 
formation  which  ladies  like  to  bestow  on  one  another  in  the 
confidence  of  friendly  conversation.  Moreover,  she  was 
pleased  to  see  Prince  Bismarck,  and  expressed  that  pleasure, 
and  there  was  a  half  hour  of  the  pleasantest  talk,  not  about 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  1 27 

politics  or  wars  or  statesmanship,  but  on  very  human 
themes. 

The  gentler  side  of  the  Prince  came  into  play,  and  one 
who  was  present  formed  the  opinion  that  there  was  a  very 
sunny  side  to  the  man  of  blood  and  iron.  As  two  o'clock 
drew  near,  the  Prince  arose  and  said:  "  I  must  go  to  my 
Congress,  for,  vou  see,  although  the  business  does  not  con- 
cern us  greatly,  it  is  business  that  must  be  attended  to." 
The  General  escorted  the  Prince,  and  as  he  descended  the 
crowd  had  become  dense,  for  Bismarck  rarely  appears  in 
public,  and  all  Berlin  honors  him  as  foremost  among  Ger- 
man men. 

On  July  II,  the  General  dined  with  the  Prince.  The 
invitation  card  was  in  German,  not  French  —  a  large,  plain 
card,  as  follows: 


FUERST  VON  BISMARCK 
beehrt  sich  General  U.  S.  GRANT  zum  Diner  am  Montag, 
den  I,  Juli,  um  6  Unr,  ganz  ergebenst  einzuladen. 
U.  A.  w.  g 


The  menu  was  in  French. 

MENU. 

LuNDi,  le  ler  juillet. 

Potage  Mulligatawny. 

Pates  a  la  financiere. 

Turbot  d'Ostende  a  I'Anglaise. 

Quartier  de  bceuf  a  la  Holsteinaise. 

Canetons  aux  olives. 

Ris  de  veau  a  la  Milanaise. 

Punch  remain. 

Poulardes  de  Bruxelles. 

Salade.     Compotes. 

Fonds  d'artichauts  a  la  HoUandaise. 

Pain  de  Fraises  a  la  Chantilly. 

^  Glaces. 

Dessert. 

The  General,  with  his  military  habits  of  promptness, 

entered  the  palace  at  six  precisely,  accompanied  by  his  wife, 


128  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

Mr.  Ba3''arcl  Taylor,  the  Minister,  and  Mrs.  Taylor,  and  H. 
Sidney  Everett,  the  Secretary  of  Legation.  The  Prince 
and  Princess  Bismarck,  and  the  Countess  Marie  GrafinVon 
Bismarck,  accompanied  by  the  Prince's  two  sons,  met  the 
General  at  the  door  of  the  salon  and  presented  him  to  the 
various  guests.  There  vs^as  a  hearty  greeting  for  the  Min- 
ister and  his  party,  and  the  Princess  and  Mrs.  Grant  were 
soon  on  the  waves  of  an  animated  conversation.  The 
company  numbered  about  thirty,  and  a  few  moments  after 
the  General's  arrival  dinner  was  announced.  The  Prince 
led  the  way,  escorting  Mrs.  Grant,  who  sat  on  his  right,, 
with  Mrs.  Taylor  on  his  left,  the  General  and  the  Princess 
vis-a-vis^  with  Mr.  Von  Schlozer,  the  German  Minister  at 
Washington,  between.  The  remainder  of  the  company 
were  members  of  the  Cabinet  and  high  persons  in  Berlin. 

About  half-jDast  seven,  or  later,  the  dinner  was  over» 
and  the  company  adjourned  to  another  room. 

General  Grant  had  several  interviews  with  Bismarck, 
and  the  interchange  of  opinion  and  criticism  took  a  wide 
range,  and  seemed  to  strengthen  the  high  opinion  each  had 
for  the  other.  The  contrast  between  the  two  faces  was  a 
jtudy;  no  two  faces,  of  this  generation,  at  least,  have  been 
more  widely  drawn.  In  expression  Bismarck  has  what 
might  be  an  intense  face,  a  moving,  restless  eye,  that  might 
flame  in  an  instant.  His  conversation  is  irregular,  rapid, 
audacious,  with  gleams  of  humor,  saying  the  oddest  and 
/rankest  things,  and  enjoying  anything  that  amuses  him  so 
much  that,  frequently,  he  will  not,  cannot  finish  the  sen- 
tence, for  laughing.  Grant,  whose  enjoyment  of  humor  is 
keen,  never  passes  beyond  a  smile.  In  conversation  he 
talks  his  theme  directly  out  with  care,  avoiding  no  detail, 
correcting  himself  if  he  slips  in  any,  exceedingly  accurate 
in  statement,  and  who  always  talks  well,  because  he  never 
talks  about  what  he  does  not  know. 

One  notes  in  comparing  the  two  faces  how  much  more 


INTERVIEW  BETWEEN  PRINCE  BISMARCK  AND  GENEKAI.  GRANT. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  1 29 

youth  there  is  in  that  of  Grant  than  of  Bismarck.  Grant's 
face  was  tired  enough  two  years  ago,  when  fresh  from  that 
witches'  dame  of  an  Electoral  Commission  —  it  had  that 
weary  look  which  you  see  in  Bismarck's,  but  it  has  gone, 
and  of  the  two  men  one  would  certainly  deem  Grant  the 
junior  by  twenty  years. 

Mr.  Taylor,  the  American  Minister,  was  evidently 
impressed  with  the  historical  value  of  the  meeting  of  Grant 
and  Bismarck.  He  remembered  a  German  custom  that 
you  can  never  cement  a  friendship  without  a  glass  of  old- 
fashioned  schnapps.  There  was  a  bottle  of  a  famous 
schnapps  cordial,  among  other  bottles  —  no  matter  how  old 
it  was  —  and  the  Minister  said,  "  General,  no  patriotic  Ger- 
man will  believe  that  there  can  ever  be  lasting  friendship 
between  Germany  and  the  United  States  unless  yourself 
and  the  Prince  pledge  eternal  amity  between  all  Germans 
and  Americans  over  a  glass  of  this  schnapps."  The  Prince 
laughed,  and  thanked  the  Minister  for  the  suggestion. 
The  schnapps  was  poured  out,  the  General  and  Prince 
touched  glasses,  and  the  vows  were  exchanged  in  hearty 
fashion. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  Gothenburg  on  the  I2th  of  July. 
He  was  met  by  a  crowd  of  over  five  thousand  people, 
who  cheered  loudly  for  him  of  whom  they  had  heard  so 
much.  The  Swedes,  who  have  emigrated  in  such  large 
numbers  to  the  United  States,  have  spread  his  fame  among 
their  countrymen  at  home.  The  ships  in  the  harbor  were 
all  decorated  in  his  honor.  He  passed  the  day  in  Gothen- 
burg, and  then  continued  his  journey  to  Christiana.  All 
the  villages  along  the  route  were  decorated,  and  his  com- 
ing was  made  the  occasion  of  a  gala  day. 

He  landed  at  Christiana  on  the  13th,  and  was  received 
with  great  ceremony.  Ten  thousand  people  flocked  to 
greet  him.  King  Oscar  II.  came  to  Christiana  from  Stock- 
9 


130  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

holm  to  meet  the   General,  and  gave   him  a  dinner  and  a 
reception. 

The  General  set  out  sightseeing,  and  was  conducted  to 
the  old  castle  of  Aggershuus,  with  its  citadel  and  church 
on  the  brow  of  a  point  jutting  out  into  the  fiord,  over  whose 
winding:  shore-line  and  smooth  waters,  broken  bv  wooded 
islands,  it  gives  a  fine  view. 

The  reception  of  the  ex-President  throughout  Scandi- 
navia was  enthusiastic  and  remarkable,  everywhere  the 
citizens  turning  out  eti  masse  to  welcome  and  honor  him. 
At  Stockholm,  on  the  24th,  he  was  tendered  a  grand  state 
banquet  and  dinner  at  the  Embassy,  and  was  serenaded, 
and  a  large  crowd  assembled  and  cheered  him  as  he 
embarked  for  Russia. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  St.  Petersburg  July  30.  On 
arriving  in  the  Russian  capital,  he  was  met  by  Minister 
Stoughton,  whose  w^onderful  coronal  of  snowy  locks  never 
shone  more  magnificently  over  his  rosy  cheeks. 

The  Emperor's  Aid-de-Camp,  Prince  Gortschakoff,  an/ 
other  high  officials  ui"  lli^  iinperial  court,  called  immedi- 
ately, welcoming  the  ex-President  in  the  name  of  the  Czar. 

On  the  following  day  General  Grant  had  an  audience 
with  the  Emperor  Alexander,  which  was  of  a  pleasant 
nature. 

The  imperial  yacht  conveyed  the  General  to  Peterhof, 
the  Verseilles  of  St.  Petersburg.  It  is  fifteen  miles  from 
the  capital,  but  it  has  one  advantage  over  the  old  French 
royal  extra-mural  residence  in  that,  from  the  imperial  palace, 
one  has  almost  urivaled  views  over  Cronstadt  and  the  Gulf 
of  Finland,  and  of  the  capital  itself.  The  fountains  were 
played  in  honor  of  the  visit. 

He  afterward  visited  the  great  Russian  man-of-war, 
Peter  the  Great.  The  band  played  American  airs,  and  a 
royal  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  was  fired.     The  imperial 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I3I 

yacht  then  steamed  slowly  among  the  Russian  fleet  lying 
off  Cronstadt,  the  ships  running  out  American  colors,  and 
the  sailors  cheering. 

Subsequently  the  General  had  an  interview  with  the 
Czar  at  St.  Petersburg.  The  Emperor  manifested  great 
cordiality.  The  General  was  presented  by  Prince  Gort- 
schakoff.  His  Majesty  talked  of  his  health  and  the  Gen- 
eral's travels.  He  seemed  greatly  interested  in  our  national 
wards,  the  Indians,  and  made  several  inquiries  as  to  their 
mode  of  warfare. 

At  the  close  of  the  interview,  the  Emperor  accompanied 
General  Grant  to  the  door,  saying: — 

"  Since  the  foundation  of  your  government,  the  rela- 
tions between  Russia  and  America  have  been  of  the  friend- 
liest character;  and  as  long  as  I  live  nothing  shall  be  spared 
to  continue  that  friendship." 

The  General  answered  that,  although  the  two  govern- 
ments were  directly  opposite  in  character,  the  great  major- 
ity of  the  American  people  were  in  sympathy  with  Russia^ 
and  would,  he  hoped,  so  continue. 

At  the  station,  General  Grant  met  the  Grand  Duke 
Alexis,  who  was  very  cordial,  recalling  with  pleasure  his 
visits  to  America. 

A  visit  was  also  made  to  the  great  Chancellor,  Prince 
Gortschakoff,  with  whom  the  General  spent  some  hours, 
smoking  and  discussing  American  and  European  affairs. 

The  Czarowitch  also  received  General  Grant  at  special 
audience. 

The  French  Ambassador  gave  a  dinner  to  the  General, 
and  there  was  a  special  review  of  the  fire  brigade  in  his 
honor.  The  attentions  of  the  Emperor  and  the  authorities 
were  so  marked  that  he  prolonged  his  stay  several  days. 

On  the  9th  instant  he  was  in  Moscow,  the  ancient  capital 
of  Russia.     He  dined  with  Prince  Dogoroff  on  the  loth, 


132  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

was  at  Warsaw  the  13th.  At  all  of  these  cities  he  was 
received  with  the  same  marked  cordiality,  and  his  visit 
recalled  with  feelings  of  pleasure. 

On  the  1 8th  our  ex-President  arrived  at  Vienna.  At 
the  railroad  station  he  was  met  by  Minister  Kasson,  the 
secretaries  and  members  of  the  American  Legation,  and  a 
large  number  of  the  American  residents.  He  was  loudly 
cheered  as  he  stepped  out  of  the  railway  carriage. 

On  the  19th  the  General  was  visited  at  the  Legation  of 
the  United  States  by  Count  Andrassy,  the  First  Minister 
of  the  Council,  and  several  colleagues.  In  the  evening  he 
dined  with  the  Countess  and  Mrs.  Grant  at  Post's.  On 
the  20th  he  had  an  audience  of  His  Imperial  Majesty  Fran- 
cis Joseph,  at  the  lovely  palace  of  Schoenbrunn,  spending 
the  remainder  of  the  day  driving  about  the  imperial 
grounds  and  forests,  and  visiting  points  of  interest  in  that 
romantic  and  historic  neighborhood. 

On  the  2 1st  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  were  entertained 
by  the  imperial  family,  and  dined  with  the  Emperor  in  the 
evening.  During  the  morning  Baron  Steinberg  accom- 
panied the  Emperor's  American  guests  to  the  Arsenal. 

On  the  22d  Minister  Kasson  gave  a  diplomatic  dinner 
in  honor  of  our  ex-President,  at  which  nearly  all  the  for- 
eign Ambassadors  were  present.  The  members  of  the 
Austro-Hungarian  Cabinet  attended  the  reception  in  the 
evening,  and  added  to  the  attractiveness  and  brilliancy  of 
the  occasion.  The  General  expressed  himself  greatly 
pleased  with  Vienna,  and  thought  it  a  charming  city.  He 
was  gratified  also  at  the  marked  attentions  of  the  Emperor's 
household,  and  the  earnest  endeavor  shown  to  honor  him 
as  a  citizen  of  the  United  States. 

On  September  23  General  Grant  was  at  Zurich,  and 
dined  with  the  American  Consul,  S.  H.  Byers,  at  the  Hotel 
Bauer.     Among  the  distinguished  guests  were  Burgomas- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I33 

ter  Roemer,  of  Zurich;  Feer-Herzog,  a  National  Council- 
lor; the  German  poet,  Kinkel;  General  Vogelli,  of  the 
Swiss  army;  Mr.  Nicholas  Fish,  the  American  Charge 
d' Affaires  at  Berne,  and  many  prominent  Swiss  citizens. 

When  the  cloth  was  removed,  Consul  Byers,  after  a  few 
appropriate  remarks,  asked  his  guests  to  drink  the  health 
of  his  renowned  countryman,  "  who,  having  led  half  a  mil- 
lion of  men  to  victory,  and  having  governed  a  great  nation 
for  eight  years,  needs  no  praise  from  me."  General  Grant's 
health  was  then  drank  with  all  the  honors.  The  Burgo- 
master expressed,  in  a  brief  and  happy  speech,  the  interest 
with  which  the  Swiss  people  followed  General  Grant's 
career  as  a  soldier  and  as  President  of  the  great  Republic, 
and  said  that  the  honor  done  and  the  pleasure  given  to  the 
citizens  of  Zurich  by  ex-President  Grant's  visit  was  very 
great. 

In  response,  General  Grant  expressed  a  deep  sense  of 
pleasure  and  honor  at  meeting  such  distinguished  Swiss 
gentlemen.  He  thanked  the  citizens  of  Zurich,  through 
their  Mayor,  for  their  cordial  reception,  which  he  regarded 
as  a  symbol  of  the  good  feeling  existing  between  the  two 
countries.  The  General  concluded  by  proposing  the  health 
of  the  President  of  the  Federal  Council  and  nation,  and 
the  prosperity  of  the  city  of  Zurich. 

Feer-Herzog  replied  in  an  eloquent  allusion  to  the 
amity  existing  between  the  two  countries,  and  ended  by 
proposing  the  health  of  President  Hayes.  Mr.  Nicholas 
Fish  responded,  testifying  to  "  the  memory  cherished  by 
all  true  United  States  citizens  of  the  Switzers  who  fousfht 
and  died  during  the  American  war — giving  their  lives  and 
services  from  the  pure,  unselfish  sympathy  of  their  hearts 
and  their  inborn  love  of  freedom.  The  acts  of  those  heroes 
are  to  Americans  the  guarantee  of  Switzerland's  sympathy 
in  the  hour  of  need  and  of  despair." 

Other  speeches  were  made,  and  the  dinner  was,  alto- 


134  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

gether,  a  thoroughly  enjoyable  occasion.  In  every  respect 
General  Grant's  recej^tion  in  the  land  of  William  Tell  has 
been  as  hearty  as  in  any  place  in  Europe.  The  General 
left  for  Paris  the  following  morning. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


GENERAL    GRANT    IN    SPAIN    AND    PORTUGAL. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  the  French  capital  on  Septem- 
ber 25,  from  Belfort.  He  was  met  at  the  station  by- 
Minister  Noyes,  ex-Governor  Fairchild,  ex-Governor  Mc- 
Cormick,  and  other  American  officials.  The  General  w^as 
In  excellent  health  and  spirits,  and  had  experienced  so  little 
fatigue  during  his  journey  that,  after  dining  en  famille^  he 
strolled  along  the  boulevards  for  more  than  tw^o  hours. 

A  grand  dinner  was  given  to  the  ex-President  October 
3  by  Mr.  Edward  F.  Noyes,  the  United  States  Minister,  at 
the  Legation.  Among  the  invited  guests  were  the  follow- 
ing distinguished  Americans:  General  and  Mrs.  Grant, 
John  Welsh,  Minister  to  England;  John  A.  Kasson,  Min- 
ister to  Austria;  J.  Meredith  Read,  Charge  d'Affaires  to 
Greece;  General  Hazen,  United  States  Army;  General 
Lucius  Fairchild,  Consul-General  at  Paris;  ex-Governor 
McCormick,  Commissioner-General  to  the  Paris  Exposi- 
tion; ex-Governor  Smith,  of  New  Hampshire,  and  Miss 
Waite,  daughter  of  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme 
Court   of  the  United  States. 

General  Grant,  having  abandoned  his  contemplated 
trip  to  India  for  the  present,  concluded  to  remain  in  Paris 
and  vicinity  for  the  winter,  and  planned  a  month's  tour 
through  Spain,  Portugal  and  Algiers. 

The  ex-President  and  party  arrived  in  Vittoria,  hav- 
ing entered  Spain  from  France  by  the  Bayonne  route. 
The  little  town  of  Irun,  which  is  just  over  the  frontier, 


136  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

afforded  the  first  glimpse  of  Spanish  life  and  character. 
Its  neat  railway  station  was  draped  with  flags  and  bunting, 
and  on  the  platform  was  a  group  of  ofliiccrs  of  the  royal 
guard,  standing  apart  from  those  privileged  citizens  who 
had  been  admitted  within  the  barriers.  Beyond,  clearly 
seen  through  the  gates  and  station  windows,  struggling  for 
a  glimpse  of  the  distinguished  visitor,  were  the  villagers 
and  the  country  people,  who,  denied  admission  to  the  yard, 
were  none  the  less  active  in  their  demonstrations  of  curi- 
osity. 

As  the  train  drew  up  at  the  platform.  General  Grant 
alighted  from  his  carriage.  The  ranking  officer  of  the  del- 
egation, a  general  on  the  staff  of  Alfonzo  XII.,  advanced, 
and,  saluting  the  visitor,  welcomed  him,  in  the  King's  name, 
to  the  Iberian  Peninsula.  He  stated  that  he  was  directed 
by  His  Majesty  to  place  at  the  General's  disposal  the  special 
railway  carriage  of  the  King,  and  to  beg  an  acceptance  of 
the  same.  General  Grant  expressed  his  thanks  in  a  few 
words,  and  accepted  the  proffered  courtesy.  The  train 
moved  out  of  the  little  village  toward  the  w^ar-begrimed 
city  of  San  Sebastian  —  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Carlists. 

At  San  Sebastian,  General  Grant  was  received  by 
Eimilio  Castelar,  ex-President  of  the  Spanish  Republic. 
To  the  well  known  statesman  and  journalist.  General  Grant 
was  exceedingly  cordial.  He  concluded  his  remarks  by 
saying:  "Believe  me,  sir,  the  name  of  Castelar  is  espe- 
cially honored  in  America."  Here,  as  at  Irun,  were  gath- 
ered many  people  to  see  General  Grant,  and  he  was 
presented  to  the  town  officials  and  the  distinguished  citi- 
zens. The  contracted  harbor  reflected  the  green  of  the 
tree-covered  hills  that  encircle  it  so  nearly,  and  beyond  the 
cone-like  isle  at  its  mouth  was  the  sheen  of  the  noonday  sun 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

Leaving  this  place,  the  road  leads  southward  toward 
Tolosa  and  Vergara.     At  both  of  these  stations  a  squad  of 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  1 37 

soldiers  was  stationed.  The  usual  military  guard  had  been 
doubled  in  honor  of  the  American  General.  After  wind- 
ing about  the  hills  beyond  the  station  of  Tolosa,  the  train 
suddenly  leaves  the  defiles  behind  and  smoothly  skirts  the 
side  of  a  great  hill,  giving  the  occupants  of  the  carriages  a 
grand  view  to  the  southward.  Near  at  hand  are  seen  the 
peaks  of  the  Pyrenees  —  only  the  extreme  western  spur  of 
the  range,  to  be  sure,  but  very  formidable  looking  barriers 
to  railway  engineering.  Altogether,  the  journey  is  a 
charming,  Swiss-like  ride,  creeping,  as  the  traveler  does, 
through  what  were  once  dangerous  mountain  paths,  and 
where,  even  yet,  the  railway  coaches  are  alternately  in  the 
wildest  forests  of  scraggy  pine  and  the  long-leaved  chestnut. 

Passing  the  summit,  the  descent  southward  is  soon 
marked  by  a  radical  change  in  the  aspect  of  the  country. 
Villages  are  met  more  frequently,  until,  winding  toward 
the  west  through  the  Welsh-looking  hills,  the  train  dashes 
into  Vittoria.  Here  the  General  was  received  on  alisrhtinsT 
by  the  civil  and  military  authorities  attached  to  the  King's 
military  and  civil  staff.  He  repaired  at  once  to  his  hotel. 
The  annual  manoeuvres  of  the  Spanish  army  were  being 
held  here,  and  the  King  and  his  entire  staff  were  in  Vittoria. 
At  night  the  General  strolled  out  through  the  tangled 
streets  of  the  old  part  of  the  town.  He  inspected  the 
bazaars  in  the  Plaza  Nueva,  and  the  pretty  streets  in  the 
new  portion  of  the  city.  The  Alameda  was  crowded 
with  people,  and  the  General  seemed  to  enjoy  the  life  al 
fresco  almost  as  much  as  the  citizens  of  the  capital  of  Alava. 

The  following  morning  General  Grant  was  received  by 
King  Alfonzo  at  the  Ayztnta?niento,  or  residence  of  the 
Alcade,  quite  a  palace  in  its  exterior  and  interior  adorn- 
ments. The  King,  who  speaks  English  fluently,  said  that 
he  had  long  had  a  curiosity  to  meet  the  General,  whose 
civil  and  military  career  was  so  familiar  to  him.  He  said 
there  was  no  man  living  whom  Spain  would  more  gladly 


I3S  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 


honor.     The   interview  was  long  and  cordial,  and   much 
good  feeling  was  shown  on  both  sides. 

At  eleven  o'clock,  General  Grant,  King  Alfonzo  and  a 
splendid  retinue  of  generals,  left  the  King's  official  resi- 
dence to  witness  the  manoeuvres  that  were  to  take  place  on 
the  historic  field  of  Vittoria,  where  the  Fi'ench,  under 
Joseph  Bonaparte  and  Jourdaa,  were  finally  crushed  in 
Spain  by  the  allies,  under  Wellington  (June  21,  1S13). 

King  Alfonzo  and  General  Grant  rode  at  the  head  of 
the  column  side  by  side,  His  Majesty  pointing  out  the  objects 
of  interest  to  the  right  and  the  left,  and,  when  the  vicinity 
of  the  famous  field  was  reached,  halting  for  a  few  minutes 
to  indicate  to  his  guest  the  locations  of  the  different  armies 
on  that  famous  June  morning.  As  they  proceeded  thence, 
General  Concha  was  called  to  the  side  of  the  King  and 
introduced  to  General  Grant.  Several  other  distinguished 
officers  were  then  presented.  The  weather  was  very  fine, 
and  the  scene  was  one  of  great  interest  to  the  American 
visitor.  General  Grant  spent  all  day  on  horseback,  wit- 
nessing the  manoeuvres. 

The  King  and  his  guest,  returned  to  the  city  late  in  the 
afternoon.  At  night  he  dined  with  the  King,  and  the  next 
day  General  Grant  reviewed  the  troops,  and  at  night 
he  left  for  Madrid.  Altogether,  both  at  the  palace 
and  on  the  field,  General  Grant's  reception  was  royal  in 
pomp  and  attention,  and  will  be  likely  to  impress  the 
reader  with  the  opinion  that  in  no  countiy  has  the  reception 
of  our  great  soldier  been  more  free,  manly  and  royal  than 
in  Spain.  Met  at  the  frontier  by  representatives  of  His 
Majesty,  escorted  to  the  presence  of  the  monarch,  shown  a 
review  on  the  battlefield  of  Vittoria,  and  treated  in  all  ways 
as  the  especial  guest  of  the  sovereign,  the  ex-President  cer- 
tainly received  in  this  case  every  mark  of  consideration  and 
honor  that  a  king  could  bestow  upon  a  visitor.  General 
Grant,  it  is   true,  has  expressed  in  Europe  the  sense  of  his 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  1 39 

satiety  with  the  military  shows  of  Hfe,  and  they  might  have 
hit  his  individual  taste  more  accurately  in  some  other  way; 
yet  a  review  on  a  famous  battlefield  is  a  piece  of  historic 
pageantry  aside  from  ordinar}^  reviews;  and  an  honor  in 
which  history  itself  is  called  upon  to  pay  tribute  to  a  visitor 
is  not  to  be  had  every  day. 

The  General  was  especially  favored  in  the  conditions  un- 
der which  he  has  visited  the  various  nations  of  Europe, 
meeting  all  its  great  statesmen  on  friendly  terms.  Bea- 
consfield,  Bismarck,  GortschakofF,  Gambetta  and  others 
have  chatted  with  him  familiarly,  and  he  has  heard  much 
from  them  about  the  socialists  and  their  crazy  theories.  In 
Berlin  he  heard  from  Bismarck's  lips  his  hot  indignation 
over  the  recent  wounding  of  the  Emperor,  and  now  in 
Spain  he  actually  witnesses  an  attempt  on  the  life  of  a  king» 
With  all  the  horror  of  the  crime  and  contempt  of  the  crimi- 
nals which  must  have  entered  his  mind,  he  has,  doubtless, 
pondered  over  the  state  of  society  in  Europe  which  makes 
these  atrocious  attempts  seem  epidemic.  He  must  have 
recognized  a  social  disease,  to  diagnose  which  the  statesmen 
he  met  did  not  bring  unbiassed  minds.  It  would  be  curi- 
ous to  know  his  impressions  on  the  subject  of  misgovern- 
ment  in  Europe. 

The  excitement  occasioned  by  the  attempt  on  King 
Alfonso's  life  was  intense.  The  criminal  fired  from  the 
sidewalk  in  front  of  house  No.  93  Calle  Mayor,  not  far 
from  the  arched  entrance  to  the  Plaza  Mayor.  He  aimed 
too  low,  however,  and  the  ball  passed  through  the  hand  of 
a  soldier  standing  guard  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street. 
The  King  saw  the  flash,  and,  with  an  involuntary  move- 
ment of  his  hand,  checked  his  horse  momentarily.  He 
then  rode  tranquilly  onward  toward  the  palace.  Several 
women  who  were  standing  near  the  man  who  fired  pointed 
him  out  with  loud  cries,  and  he  was  at  once  secured.  He 
did  not  make  the  slightest  attempt  to  escape.     Terrible  in- 


140  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt'S 

dignation  was  manifested  among  the  people  forming  the 
crowd  that  ahnost  immediately  gathered  from  the  bazaars 
and  the  markets  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  —  that  doleful  old  en- 
closed square,  where  the  autos  da  fe  and  the  Jiestas  reales 
took  place  during  and  even  since  the  days  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion, but  now  given  over  to  the  venders  of  dates,  pome- 
granates and  base  metal  jewelry.  Attempts  were  made  to 
wreak  summary  vengeance  upon  the  assassin  when  he  was 
on  his  way  to  the  Gobierno  Civil.  Thence  he  was  soon 
removed  to  the  Captain- Generalcy. 

The  prisoner  displayed  great  coolness  during  his  com- 
mitment. He  insolently  drew  a  cigar  from  his  pocket, 
which,  after  having  struck  a  match,  he  coolly  lit  and  began 
to  smoke.  He  is  a  very  thin  man,  of  medium  height,  wears 
a  light  mustache,  and  has  his  hair  closely  cropped.  He 
admitted  the  crime,  and  triumphantly  declared  himself  a 
socialist  and  internationalist;  but,  when  interrogated  as  to 
who  his  accomplices  were,  denied  that  he  had  acted  in  con- 
cert with  any  one.  He  said  that  he  came  alone  from  Tara- 
gona  purposely  to  kill  a  king.  This  was  his  first  serious 
disappointment  in  life. 

General  Grant  was  standing,  when  the  shot  was  fired,  at 
a  window  of  the  Hotel  de  Paris  (situated  at  the  junction  of 
the  Carrera  San  Geronimo  and  the  Calle  de  Alcala),  over- 
looking the  Puerta  del  Sol.  This  hotel  is  a  long  distance 
from  the  scene  of  the  attack,  but  looks  across  the  great  cen- 
tral plaza  of  Madrid,  directly  down  the  Calle  Mayor.  Gen- 
eral Grant,  who  was  following  with  his  eyes  the  progress 
of  the  royal  cavalcade  which  had  just  passed  across  the 
Puerta  del  Sol  before  him,  said  that  he  clearly  saw  the  flash 
of  the  assassin's  pistol.  The  General  had  already  "booked" 
for  Lisbon  by  the  night  train  leaving  at  seven  o'clock,  and 
therefore  could  not  in  person  present  his  congratulations  to 
King  Alfonso;  but  to  Senor  Silvera,  the  Minister  of  State, 
who  called  soon  after  and  accompanied  him  to  the  railway 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I4I 

station,  General  Grant  expressed  his  sympathies,  and  re- 
grets that  he  was  unable  to  postpone  his  journey  in  order 
that  he  might  personally  call  upon  His  Majesty.  He 
begged  Senor  Silvera  to  convey  to  the  King  his  sincere 
congratulations  on  his  escape  from  the  assassin's  bullet. 
There  was  a  great  gathering  of  diplomats,  nobles  and  men 
of  all  parties  at  the  palace  to  offer  congratulations  on  Friday 
night  and  Saturday  morning.  Marshal  Serrano  (Duke  de 
la  Torre)  was  one  of  the  first  callers.  Minister  James 
Russell  Lowell  and  Mr.  Ried,  Secretary  of  Legation,  called 
at  the  palace  Saturday,  and  expressed  their  gratification  at 
the  King's  escape.  The  King  made  light  of  the  whole 
affair,  but  the  popular  indignation  was  intense. 

General  Grant  dined  with  King  Luis  at  Lisbon, 
November  i .  All  the  members  of  the  ministry  were  present, 
including  the  Marquis  of  Avilae  Bolama,  Minister  of  State 
and  of  Foreign  Affairs;  Conseilhero  J.  de  Mello  e  Gauvea, 
Finance  Minister;  Conseilhero  J.  de  Sande  ]\Lagalhaes 
Mexia  Salema,  Minister  of  Justice;  Conseilhero  A.  F.  de 
Sousa  Pinto,  Minister  of  War;  the  Count  De  Castro,  and 
other  members  of  the  judiciary  and  military  departments 
of  the  kingdom.  The  palace  was  gayly  trimmed  with 
flags,  and  the  day  was  a  festival  throughout  the  city. 

King  Luis'  reception  of  the  ex-President  of  the  United 
States  was  very  cordial.  His  Majesty  offered  the  General 
the  highest  decoration  of  knighthood  known  to  the  king- 
dom. General  Grant  thanked  the  King,  but  said  he  was 
compelled  to  decline  the  honors,  as  the  laws  of  the  United 
States  made  it  impossible  for  an  officer  to  wear  decorations, 
and,  although  he  was  not  now  in  office,  he  preferred  to 
respect  the  law.  He  thanked  His  Majesty  heartily  for  the 
honor  intended.  King  Luis  then  offered  him  a  copy  of  his 
translation  of  "Hamlet"  into  Portuguese,  which  General 
Grant  accepted  with  many  thanks. 

Among  the  pleasantest  experiences  of  his  European 


142  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

tour  General  Grant  will  certainly  rank  his  cordial  reception 
by  King  Luis  at  Lisbon.  Overshadowed  as  Portugal  is 
politically  by  the  greater  power  on  the  Iberian  Peninsula, 
it  has  a  sturdy  life  of  its  own,  which,  until  thrones  are  abol- 
ished, it  promises  to  retain.  The  house  of  Braganza,  which, 
through  the  stress  of  circumstances,  sent  its  scions  to  this 
side  of  the  Atlantic,  builded  better  than  it  knew.  In  Brazil 
it  found  a  scope  for  its  usefulness  that  it  could  not  have 
hoped  for  in  the  narrower  limits  of  the  parent  kingdom. 
The  coming  of  General  Grant  was,  doubtless,  quite  an  im- 
portant event  in  the  somewhat  dull  routine  of  court  life  at 
Lisbon,  and  everything  appears  to  have  been  done  to  make 
it  pleasant  and  memorable  for  the  guest.  General  Grant's 
polite  but  firm  refusal  to  accept  the  highest  order  of  knight- 
hood in  the  kingdom  may  have  come  with  a  certain  shock 
to  the  monarch,  for  kings  are  seldom  refused  in  such  matters. 

The  ex-President  arrived  at  Seville  on  the  8th,  and  was 
received  with  great  honor  by  the  civil  and  military  author- 
ities of  the  city.  The  populace  showed  every  mark  of 
respect  to  the  distinguishea  American,  mn}  the  bearing  or 
the  officials  was  most  cordial.  On  Friday  he  breakfasted 
•vrith  the  Duke  de  Montpensier,  father  of  the  late  Queen 
Mercedes. 

On  Tuesday  he  reached  Cadiz.  He  was  received  at 
the  landing  place  by  the  Mayor  of  the  city  and  the  civil 
and  military  officials.  A  guard  of  honor  was  in  attendance, 
and  a  large  crowd  cheered  the  ex-President  as  he  passed 
out.  The  reception  was  most  enthusiastic  on  the  part  of 
the  people,  and  very  cordial  on  that  of  the  authorities. 

On  the  17th  General  Grant  and  party  left  Cadiz  for 
Gibraltar.  The  sea  was  very  calm,  and  the  delightful 
Toyage  was  greatly  enjoyed  by  all.  The  first  welcome  sight 
to  the  visitors  was  the  American  flag  flying  from  one  of 
our  men-of-war.  There  was  some  trouble  in  distinguish- 
ing the  vessel    until  a  near    approach,  when    old    friends 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I43 

were  recognized  in  the  persons  of  Captain  Robeson  and 
shipmates  of  the  Vandal ia. 

The  General  directed  his  vessel  to  steam  around  the 
Vandalia,  and  cordial  greetings  were  exchanged  between 
the  two  ships.  As  they  headed  into  port,  the  Vandalia 
mounted  her  yards,  and  Captain  Robeson  came  in  his 
barsfe  to  take  the  General  on  shore.  The  American 
Consul,  Mr.  Sprague,  and  two  officers  of  Lord  Napier's 
staff,  met  the  General  and  welcomed  him  to  Gibraltar  in 
the  name  of  the  General  commanding.  Amid  a  high  sea, 
which  threw  its  spray  over  most  of  the  party,  they  pulled 
ashore.  On  landing,  a  guard  of  honor  presented  arms,  and 
the  General  drove  at  once  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Sprague,  on 
the  hill. 

Mr.  Sprague  has  lived  many  years  at  Gibraltar,  and 
is  the  oldest  consular  officer  in  the  service  of  the  United 
States.  General  Grant  was  the  third  ex-President  he  has 
entertained  at  his  house.  Lord  Napier,  of  Magdala,  the 
commander  at  Gibraltar,  had  telegraphed  to  Cadiz,  ask* 
ing  the  General  to  dinner  on  tne  evenmg  of  his  arrival. 
At  seven  o'clock,  the  General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  accompa- 
nied by  the  Consul,  went  to  the  palace  of  the  Governor, 
called  The  Convent,  and  were  received  in  the  most  hospi- 
table manner  by  Lord  Napier.  His  Lordship  had  expressed 
a  great  desire  to  meet  General  Grant,  and  relations  of  cour- 
tesy had  passed  between  them  before  —  Lord  Napier,  who 
commanded  the  expeditionary  force  in  Abyssinia,  having 
sent  General  Grant  King  Theodore's  bible.  The  visit  to 
Gibraltar  may  be  summed  up  in  a  series  of  dinners  —  first, 
at  the  Governor's  palace ;  second,  with  the  mess  of  the  Royal 
Artillery;  again,  at  the  Consul's.  Then  there  were  one  or 
two  private  and  informal  dinners  at  Lord  Napier's;  and,  in 
fact,  most  of  General  Grant's  time  at  Gibraltar  was  spent 
in  the  company  of  this  distinguished  commander — a  stroll 
around  the  batteries,  a  ride  over  the  hills,  a  gallop  along  the 


144  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT  S 

beach,  a  review  of  troops,  and  taking  part  in  a  sham  battle. 
Lord  Napier  was  anxious  to  show  General  Grant  his  troops, 
and  although,  as  those  who  know  the  General   can  tes- 
tify, he  has  a  special  aversion  to  military  display,  he  spent 
an  afternoon  in  witnessing  a  march  past  of  the  British  gar- 
rison, and  afterward   a   sham    battle.     It  was  a  beautiful 
day  for  the  manoeuvres.     General  Grant  rode  to  the  field, 
accompanied  by  Lord  Napier,  Gen.  Conolly,  and  others  of 
the  staif.     Mrs.  Grant,  accompanied  by  the  Consul  and  the 
ladies  of  the  Consul's  family,  followed,  and  took  up  her 
station    by  the    reviewing    post.     The    English   bands  all 
played  American  airs  out  of  compliment  to  the  General, 
and  the  review  was  given  in  his  honor.     Lord  Napier  was 
exceedingly  pleased  with  the  troops,  and  said  to  General 
Grant  he  supposed  they  were  on  their  best  behavior,  as  he 
had  never  seen  them  do  so  well.     The  General  examined 
them  very  closely,  and  said  that  he  did  not  see  how  their 
discipline   could   be   improved.     "  I  have    seen,"   said  the 
General,  "most  of  the  troops  of  Europe;  they  all  seemed 
good;  I  liked  the  Germans  very  much,  and  the  Spaniards 
only  wanted  good  officers,  so  far  as  I  could  see,  to  bring 
them  up  to  the  highest  standard ;  but  these  have  something- 
about  them  —  I  suppose  it  is  their  Saxon  blood — which 
none  of  the  rest  possess;  they  have  the  swing  of  conquest.'* 

The  General  would  have  liked  to  have  remained  at  Gib- 
raltar longer,  but  there  is  nothing  in  the  town  beyond  the 
o-arrison.  We  suppose  his  real  attraction  to  the  place  was 
the  pleasure  he  found  in  Lord  Napier's  society,  and  again 
coming  in  contact  with  English  ways  and  customs,  after 
having  been  so  long  with  the  stranger. 

General  Grant  spent  several  days  at  Pau,  where  he  was 
engaged  in  hunting,  and  making  short  journeys  into  the 
Pyrenees.  He  returned  to  Paris  on  the  i  ith  of  December, 
having  accepted  the  offer  of  President  Hayes  to  go  to  India 
on  the  United  States  corvette  Richmond.     The  President's 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I45 

offer  was  made  in  the  most  flattering  terms.  After  visiting 
Ireland,  his  plan  was  to  embark  at  Marseilles  and  proceed 
direct  to  India  via  the  Suez  Canal.  In  no  country  had  the 
great  American  soldier  been  more  royally  received,  or 
favored  with  more  noteworthy  associations,  than  in  Spain 
and  Portugal, 
ic 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


GENERAL  GRANT  IN  IRELAND. 

If  anything  was  a  moral  certainty,  it  was  that  when 
General  Grant  visited  Ireland  he  would  meet  with  a  popu- 
lar reception  of  the  most  enthusiastic  description.  That 
he  was  a  great  and  successful  soldier  was  a  high  claim  upon 
a  people  with  such  admiration  of  the  chivalrous;  that  he 
had  led  to  victory  so  many  thousands  of  Irishmen  and  sona 
of  Irishmen  in  the  war  for  the  Union,  brought  him  still 
closer  to  them,  for  there  is  scarcely  a  household  in  all  Ire- 
land that  has  not  some  family  link  with  the  Irish  beyond 
the  Atlantic.  To  him  Fame  justly  ascribes  the  salvation 
of  that  government  and  that  flag  under  which  the  famine- 
stricken,  the  oppressed  and  the  evicted  of  Ireland  had  found 
homes,  prosperity  and  freedom.  During  the  war  for  the 
Union  the  people  of  Ireland  prayed,  like  Lincoln  at  Get- 
tysburg, that  this  "  government  of  the  people,  for  the  peo- 
ple and  by  the  people,  should  not  perish  from  the  earth." 
They  could  not  fit  out  ships  to  fight  the  Alabamas  that  En- 
gland was  letting  go,  but  they  sent  out  many  a  sturdy  son  to 
do  battle  for  the  Union.  To  an  immense  proportion  of  the 
Irish  people  General  Grant  typifies  the  republican  form  of 
government  which  they  hope  for.  By  the  officials  of  the 
British  government  General  Grant  was,  of  course,  received 
as  a  foremost  citizen  of  a  friendly  power;  but  it  was  in  Its 
popular  feature  that  his  visit  was  the  most  interesting. 

General  Grant  and  family,  accompanied  by  Minister 
Noyes,    arrived    in  Dublin,  by  boat,  on    the  morning  of 


TOUR    AKOUXD    THE    WORLD.  I47 

January  3,  1879.  The  ex-President  was  met  by  repre- 
sentatives of  the  corporation.  He  was  driven  to  the  Shel- 
bourne  Hotel,  and  at  once  prepared  to  visit  the  City  Hall 
to  meet  the  Lord  Mayor.  The  city  was  full  of  strangers, 
and  much  enthusiasm  was  manifested  when  the  General 
and  his  party  left  their  hotel  to  drive  to  the  Mansion  House. 
On  arriving  at  the  Mayor's  official  residence,  they  were 
cheered  by  a  large  crowd  that  had  gathered  to  greet  the 
illustrious  ex-President.  The  Lord  Mayor,  in  j^resenting 
the  freedom  of  the  city,  referred  to  the  cordiality,  always 
existing  between  America  and  Ireland,  and  hoped  that  in 
America  General  Grant  would  do  everything  he  could  to 
help  a  i^eople  who  sympathize  with  every  American  move- 
ment. The  parchment,  on  which  was  engrossed  the  free* 
dom  of  the  city,  was  inclosed  in  an  ancient,  carved  bog-oak 
casket. 

General  Grant  apjDcared  to  be  highly  impressed  by  the 
generous  language  of  the  Lord  Mayor.  He  replied:  "I 
feel  very  proud  of  being  made  a  citizen  of  the  principal  city 
of  Ireland,  and  no  honor  that  I  have  received  has  given  me 
greater  satisfaction.  I  am  by  birth  the  citizen  of  a  country 
where  there  are  more  Irishmen,  native  born  or  by  descent, 
than  in  all  Ireland.  When  in  office  I  had  the  honor  —  and 
it  was  a  great  one,  indeed  —  of  representing  more  Irishmen 
and  descendants  of  Irishmen  than  does  Her  Majesty  the 
Queen  of  England.  I  am  not  an  eloquent  speaker,  and  can 
simply  thank  you  for  the  great  courtesy  you  have  shown 
me."  Thi-ee  cheers  were  given  for  General  Grant  at  the 
close  of  his  remarks,  and  then  three  more  were  added  for 
the  people  of  the  United  States. 

Mr.  Isaac  Butt,  the  well  known  home-rule  member 
of  Parliament,  speaking  as  the  first  honorary  freeman  of 
this  city,  congratulated  General  Grant  on  having  consoli- 
dated into  peace  and  harmony  the  turbulent  political  and 
sectional  elements  over  which  he  triumphed  as  a  soldier. 


148  GENEUAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

His  speech  throughout  w.as  highly  complimentary  of  the 
ex-President. 

In  the  evening  a  grand  banquet  was  given  in  honor  of 
the  ex- President,  over  tv^ro  hundred  guests  being  present. 

The  Lord  Mayor  presided.  General  Noyes  returned 
thanks  for  a  toast  to  President  Hayes'  health.  When  Gen- 
eral Grant's  name  vs^as  proposed,  the  company  arose  and 
gave  the  Irish  welcome. 

The  ex-President  made  in  response  the  longest  speech 
of  his  life,  speaking  in  a  clear  voice,  and  being  listened  to 
with  rapt  attention.  He  referred  to  himself  and  fellow  citi- 
zens of  Dublin,  and  intimated,  amid  much  laughter  and 
cheering,  that  he  might  return  to  Dublin  one  day  and  run 
against  Barrington  for  Mayor,  and  Butt  for  Parliament. 
He  warned  those  gentlemen  that  he  was  generally  a  troub- 
lesome candidate. 

Then  passing  to  serious  matters,  the  General  said : — 
"  We  have  heard  some  words  spoken  about  our  country  — 
my  country,  before  I  was  naturalized  in  another.  We 
have  a  very  great  country,  a  prosperous  country,  with  room 
for  a  great  many  people.  We  have  been  suffering  for 
some  years  from  very  great  oppression.  The  world  has 
felt  it.  There  is  no  question  about  the  fact  that,  when  you 
have  forty-five  millions  of  consumers  such  as  we  are,  and 
when  they  are  made  to  feel  poverty,  then  the  whole  world 
must  feel  it. 

"  You  have  had  here  great  prosperity  because  of  our 
great  extravagance  and  our  great  misfortunes.  We  had  a 
war  which  drew  into  it  almost  every  man  who  could  bear 
arms,  and  my  friend  who  spoke  so  eloquently  to  you  a 
few  moments  ago  lost  a  leg  in  it.  You  did  not  observe 
that,  perhaps,  as  he  has  a  wooden  one  in  place  of  it. 

"When  that  great  conflict  was  going  on,  we  were  spend- 
ing one  thousand  million  dollars  a  year  more  than  we  were 
producing,  and  Europe  got  every  dollar  of  it.     It  made  for 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  149 

you  a  false  prosperity.  You  were  getting  our  bonds  and 
our  promises  to  pay.  You  were  cashing  them  yourselves. 
That  made  great  prosperity,  and  made  producers  beyond 
the  real  necessities  of  the  world  at  peace.  But  we  finally 
got  through  that  great  conflict,  and  with  an  inflated  cur- 
rency which  was  far  below  the  specie  you  use  here.  It 
made  our  people  still  more  extravagant.  Our  speculations 
were  going  on,  and  we  still  continued  to  spend  three  or 
four  hundred  millions  of  money  per  year  more  than  we 
were  producing, 

"We  paid  it  back  to  you  for  your  labor  and  manufac- 
tures, and  it  made  you  apparently  and  really  prosperous. 
We,  on  the  other  hand,  were  getting  really  poor,  but  being 
honest,  however,  we  came  to  the  day  of  solid,  honest  pay- 
ment. We  came  down  to  the  necessity  of  selling  more 
than  we  bought.  Now  we  have  turned  the  corner.  We 
have  had  our  days  of  depression;  yours  is  just  coming  on. 
I  hope  it  is  nearly  over.  Our  prosperity  is  commencing, 
and  as  we  become  prosperous  you  will,  too,  because  we 
become  increased  consumers  of  your  products  as  well  as 
our  own.  I  think  it  safe  to  say  that  the  United  States, 
with  a  few  years'  more  such  prosperity,  will  consume  as 
much  more  as  they  did.  Two  distinguished  men  have 
alluded  to  this  subject  —  one  was  the  President  of  the 
United  States,  and  he  said  that  the  prosperity  of  the  United 
States  would  be  felt  to  the  bounds  of  the  civilized  world. 
The  other  was  Lord  Beaconsfield,  the  most  far-seeing  man, 
the  one  who  seems  to  me  to  see  as  far  into  the  future  as 
any  man  I  know,  and  he  says  the  same  as  President 
Hayes." 

General  Grant's  speech  created  a  profound  sensation, 
and  was  loudly  cheered  during  its  delivery. 

The  following  morning  ex-President  Grant,  Mr.  Noyes 
and  Mr.  Badeau  visited  the  Royal  Irish  Academy,  in  Kil- 
dare    Street,  in  company  with   Lord   Mayor  Barrington. 


150  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANX'S 

Here,  after  some  time  spent  in  inspecting  the  treasures  of 
ancient  Irish  art  in  gold,  silver  and  bronze.  Saint  Patrick's 
bell  and  sacred  cross,  and  O'DonnelPs  casque,  the  party 
went  to  the  building  that  was  the  old  Parliament  house.  It 
is  now  the  bank  of  Ireland,  and  the  walls  which  formerly 
echoed  with  the  eloquence  of  Grattan,  Curran  and  Plunk- 
ett,  now  resound  with  the  chaffering  of  the  money 
changers.  Trinity  College  was  then  visited.  The  party 
was  received  by  the  Provost  and  Fellows  and  escorted 
through  the  library,  chapel  and  halls  of  this  venerable  and 
majestic  pile. 

General  Grant  drove  to  the  vice-regal  lodge  of  the 
Duke  of  Marlborough,  Phoenix  Park,  early  in  the  after- 
noon, where  he  had  dcjeiiner  with  the  Viceroy.  He 
afterward  visited  the  Zoological  Gardens,  then  returned  to 
his  hotel,  where  he  rested  a  couple  of  hours. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  notice  the  contrast  between  the 
generous  welcome  extended  to  General  Grant  by  the  peo- 
ple of  Dublin,  and  the  uncalled-for  and  spiteful  slight  aimed 
at  him  by  a  clique  of  the  Cork  City  Council,  as  showing 
to  what  lengths  sectional  and  religious  ag^itation  are  some- 
times  carried.  The  United  States  Consul  at  Cork  addressed 
a  letter  to  the  Council,  announcing  that  Grant  would 
probably  arrive  in  Cork  within  a  few  days.  Mr.  Tracy,  a 
nationalist,  proposed  at  the  Council  meeting  that  the  letter 
should  simply  be  marked  "read,"  and  that  no  action  should 
be  taken.  Mr.  Harris,  a  conservative,  said :  "  It  will  be 
to  the  interest  of  our  fellow-countrymen  in  the  United 
States  if  a  proper  reception  is  accorded  to  General  Grant, 
who  represents  the  governing  party  in  that  country.  There 
can  be  no  personal  antipathy  to  the  gentleman  himself; 
neither  was  there  anything  in  the  government  of  the  ex- 
President  objectionable  to  the  Irish  people  nor  unpleasant 
to  the  Irish  in  America.  Probably  General  Grant  would 
again  be  at  the  head  of  the  United   States,  in  which  event 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I5I 

it  would  be  to  the  interest  of  our  fellow-countrymen  in 
America  if  proper  recognition  was  given  to  General  Grant 
on  his  arrival  at  Cork." 

Mr.  Barry,  an  extreme  nationalist,  said  the  ex-President 
had  insulted  the  Irish  people  in  America.  He  got  up  the 
"  No  Popery  "  cry  there. 

Mr.  Tracy  said  it  would  be  unbecoming  for  the  Catholic 
constituency  of  Cork  to  welcome  such  a  man.  It  would 
be  ungenerous  to  refuse  him  hospitality  if  he  deserved  it, 
but  he  saw  nothing  in  General  Grant's  career  that  called 
for  sympathy  from  the  Irish  nation.  He  never  thought  of 
the  Irish  race  as  he  thought  of  others,  and  he  went  out  of 
his  way  to  insult  their  religion. 

Mr.  Dwyer,  an  advanced  nationalist,  would  not  couple 
General  Grant's  name  with  America.  The  Irish  who 
sought  a  refuge  and  a  home  in  the  United  States  had  re- 
ceived kindness  and  attention  from  the  American  people. 
President  Grant  had  never  given  them  the  same  recogni- 
tion as  the  other  inhabitants.  It  would  be  an  impropriety 
to  pay  any  mark   of  respect  personally  to  General  Grant.. 

Messrs.  McSweeny  and  Creedon,  nationalists,  spoke  tO- 
the  same  effect,  and  with  a  great  shout  of  "  Aye,"  there 
being  no  dissenting  voices,  Cork  refused  to  receive  General 
Grant. 

The  New  York  Herald^  commenting  on  this  action  of 
the  City  Council  of  Cork,  said: 

"  The  Town  Council  of  Cork  has  done  more  to  ad- 
vertise itself  in  connection  with  General  Grant  than  the 
municipal  authority  of  any  other  city  in  Europe.  The 
respectful  hospitalities  of  which  the  American  ex-Presi- 
dent has  been  the  object  since  he  left  his  native  shore* 
nearly  two  years  ago  have  been  so  constant,  so  uniform, 
so  unbroken,  that  the  recital  of  them  was  beginning  to 
pall  upon  public  attention.  Monotony  at  last  grows 
tiresome,  even  if  it  be  a  monotony  of  highly  seasoned  com- 


152  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

pliments.  A  break  of  continuity  in  the  long  round  of 
festive  receptions  given  to  General  Grant  heiglitens  their 
effect  b}'  a  little  dash  of  contrast.  It  is  like  one  of  those 
rough  lines  w^hich  poets  sometimes  introduce  into  their 
compositions  to  recall  attention  to  the  harmony  which 
pervades  the  general  structure  of  their  verse." 

"  The  Town  Council  of  Cork  has  made  a  discovery 
•which  had  escaped  the  rest  of  Catholic  Europe  and  of 
Catholic  Ireland.  It  proclaims,  as  a  justification  of  its  dis- 
courtesy, that  President  Grant  went  out  of  his  way  to 
insult  its  religion.  The  deeds  of  General  Grant  have  not 
been  done  in  a  corner,  and  it  seems  odd  enough  that  it  was 
reserved  for  the  Town  Council  of  Cork  to  detect  and  pro- 
claim a  fact  which  has  escaped  the  knowledge  of  Europe  and 
America.  Our  traveling  ex- President  has  been  as  warmly 
i-eceived  in  Catholic  Italy  and  Spain  as  in  Protestant 
England  and  Germany;  he  has  been  as  much  honored  by 
the  Catholic  President  MacMahon,  as  by  the  Protestant, 
Queen  Victoria;  and  even  Catholic  Dublin  has  not  fallen 
behind  the  sister  cities  of  the  United  Kingdom.  The 
Town  Council  of  Cork  would  seem  to  be  better  Catholics 
than  the  Pope  himself. 

"  General  Grant  had  decided,  before  learning  of  the 
singular  action  at  Cork,  that  it  would  not  suit  his  conven- 
ience to  pay  a  visit  to  that  city.  He  thinks  that  its  author- 
ities have  convicted  themselves  of  a  strange  inattention  to 
American  history.  It  is,  indeed,  well  enough  known  that 
General  Grant  is  not  a  Catholic;  but  it  is  equally  well 
known  that  he  is  superior  to  all  narrow  and  illiberal  pre- 
judices against  members  of  that  communion.  His  two 
most  intimate  friends  in  the  army  are  General  Sherman  and 
Lieutenant-General  Sheridan,  both  Catholics.  He  did  all  in 
his  power  to  advance  the  interests  of  these  distinguished 
soldiers  before  he  became  President,  and  after  his  accession 
he   promoted    them    to    the  two  highest   positions  in  the 


dy 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I53 

American  army.  His  zealous  friendship  was  not  founded 
on  their  religion,  but  their  personal  qualities;  but  their 
Catholic  connection  never  abated  in  the  least  his  generous 
care  of  their  interests.  In  civil  affairs  his  freedom  from 
religious  bigotry  has  been  equally  genuine,  though  less  con- 
spicuous. He  appointed  Mr.  Thomas  Murphy  Collector 
of  the  Port  of  New  York,  one  of  the  most  important  and 
responsible  positions  in  the  civil  service,  and  both  in  office 
and  out  of  office  Mr.  Murphy  was  treated  by  him  as  an 
intimate  personal  friend  and  favorite. 

"  We  suppose  the  Cork  orators  must  have  heard  of 
President  Grant's  Des  Moines  speech,  in  which  he  declared 
himself  in  favor  of  anti-sectarian  free  schools.  But  many 
American  Catholics  are  supporters  of  our  common  school 
system.  The  ablest  and  most  distinguished  Catholic  now  in 
public  life  in  this  country,  Senator  Kernan,  has  always  been 
a  steady  friend  of  our  common  schools.  He  was  for  many 
years  the  most  efficient  member  of  the  School  Board  of 
Utica,  the  city  of  his  residence.  The  Town  Council  of 
Cork  has  acted  on  a  misconception,  and  its  members  have 
reason  to  be  heartily  ashamed  of  their  ignorance,  as  well 
as  of  their  illiberality  and  discourtesy." 

This  action  of  the  city  of  Cork  produced  a  profound 
sensation  throughout  Ireland,  the  people  looking  at  it  as  a 
violation  of  the  rites  of  hospitality.  General  Grant  smiled 
when  told  of  the  action  of  the  Cork  Councilmen,  and  said 
he  was  sorry  the  Cork  people  knew  so  little  of  American 
history. 

The  respectable  liberals  and  conservatives  of  the  city 
and  county  of  Cork  were  indignant  at  the  action  of  the 
clique  in  the  Council  who  insulted  ex-President  Grant.  An 
ex-Mayor  of  the  city  said;  "  The  obstructionists  who  op- 
posed a  cead  inille  failthe  to  General  Grant  are  not  worth 
n  decent  man  rubbing  up  against.  It  is  a  pity'  that  the 
General  has  determined  to  return  to  Paris  instead  of  visit- 


154  GENERAI.    U.    S.    GKANT's 

ing  Cork,  where  he  would  have  received  such  an  ovation 
from  the  self-respecting  populace  as  would  prove  that  the 
Irish  heart  beats  in  sympathy  with  America." 

General  Grant  quietly  left  Dublin  on  Monday  morning, 
January  6,  Lord  Mayor  Barrington  taking  leave  of  him 
at  the  railway  station.  The  morning  was  cold,  and,  as  the 
train  j^i'ogressed  northward,  ice,  snow,  cold  winds  and 
finally  rain  were  encountered.  At  Dundalk,  Omagh,  Stra- 
bane  and  other  stations,  large  crowds  were  assembled  and 
the  people  cheered  the  ex-President,  putting  their  hands 
into  the  cars  and  shaking  hands  with  him  whenever  pos- 
sible. The  expi^essions  of  ill-feeling  toward  General  Grant 
in  Cork  had  aroused  the  Protestant  sentiments  of  the  Irish 
people  of  Ulster  in  his  favor. 

At  two  o'clock  the  train  reached  Derry.  A  heavy  rain 
had  covered  the  ground  with  ice,  rendering  the  view  of  the 
city  and  surroundings  most  charming,  as  seen  through  the 
mists  and  gossamer  of  falling  snow.  At  the  station  an  im- 
mense crowd,  ajoparently  the  whole  town  and  neighbor- 
hood, had  assembled.  The  multitude  was  held  in  check  by 
the  police.  The  Mayor  welcomed  General  Grant  cordially, 
and  he  left  the  station  amid  great  cheering,  mingled  with 
groans  from  the  nationalist  members  of  the  crowd,  who 
called  out,  "  Why  did  n't  ye  receive  O'Connor  Power  ?" 
The  great  majority  of  the  crowd  cheered  madly,  and  fol- 
lowed General  Grant's  carriage  to  the  hotel.  The  ships  in 
the  harbor  were  decorated  with  flags  and  streamers,  and 
the  town  was  en  fete.  A  remarkably  cold,  driving  rain 
set  in  at  three  o'clock,  just  as  General  Grant  and  his  party 
drove  in  state  to  the  ancient  town  hall.  The  crowd  was  so 
dense  near  the  hall  that  progress  through  it  was  made  with 
great  difiiculty.  At  the  entrance  of  the  building  the 
Mayor  and  Council,  in  their  robes  of  office,  received  the 
ex-President.  Amid  many  expressions  of  enthusiasm  from 
the  people  of  Londonderry,  an  address  was  read  extolling 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


'55 


the  military  and  civil  career  of  General  Grant,  which  was 
pronounced  second  in  honor  only  to  that  of"   Washington. 

General  Grant  signed  the  roll,  thus  making  himself  an 
Ulster  Irishman.  He  then  made  a  brief  address.  He  said 
that  no  incident  of  his  trip  was  more  pleasant  than  accept- 
ing citizenship  at  the  hands  of  the  representatives  of  this 
ancient  and  honored  city,  with  whose  history  the  people  of 
America  were  so  familiar.  He  regretted  that  his  stay  in 
Ireland  would  be  so  brief.  He  had  originally  intended 
embarking  from  Queenstovvn  direct  for  the  United  States, 
in  which  case  he  would  have  remamed  a  much  longfer  time 
on  the  snug  little  island;  but,  having  resolved  to  visit  India, 
he  was  compelled  to  make  his  stay  short.  He  could  not, 
however,  he  said  in  conclusion,  return  home  without  seeing 
Ireland  and  a  people  in  whose  welfare  the  people  of  the 
United  States  took  so  deejD  an  interest.  The  ex-President 
returned  to  his  hotel,  making  a  short  visit  at  the  house  of 
Consul  Livermore  en  route. 

A  banquet  was  tendered  to  the  General,  at  which  he 
was  present.  The  leading  citizens  of  the  province  of 
Ulster  attended,  and  the  dinner  was  remarkably  good. 
The  reception  of  the  ex-President  was  enthusiastic  and  cor- 
dial in  the  extreme.  General  Grant,  in  response  to  a  toast, 
made  a  brief  speech,  saying  that  he  should  have  felt  that 
his  tour  in  Europe  was  incomplete  had  he  not  seen  the 
ancient  and  illustrious  city  of  Londonderry,  whose  history 
was  so  well  known  throughout  America.  Indeed,  the 
people  of  Derry,  and  all  about  there,  had  had  a  remarkable 
influence  upon  the  development  of  American  character. 
He  cordially  welcomed  to  the  United  States  all  the  Irish- 
men who  chose  to  make  their  homes  there,  and  this  w^as 
a  welcome  shared  by  the  American  people.  Minister 
Noyes  made  a  speech  of  the  same  general  tenor,  and  at 
eleven  o'clock  the  company  separated. 

The  following  morning  General  Grant  strolled  about 


156  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

looking  at  the  historic  walls,  visiting  Walker's  Pillar,  Roar- 
ing Meg,  and  the  other  curiosities  of  the  town.  The  Gen- 
eral's treatment  by  the  people  of  Londonderry  during  his 
stay  was  unusually  cordial. 

General  Grant's  tour  in  Ulster  was,  in  some  respects,  the 
most  remarkable  of  his  European  experiences.  People 
resented  the  action  of  the  city  of  Cork  as  a  slander  upon 
Irish  hospitality. 

General  Grant  left  Derry  on  the  7th,  accompanied  by 
Sir  Hervey  Bruce,  Lieutenant  of  the  county,  Mr.  Taylor, 
M.  P.  for  Coleraine,  and  other  local  magnates.  A  cold 
rain  and  mists,  coming  from  the  Northern  Ocean,  obscured 
the  wonderful  view  of  the  Northern  Irish  coast.  The 
General  studied  the  country  closely,  remarking  on  the 
sparseness  of  the  population,  and  saying  he  could  see  no 
evidence  of  the  presence  of  seven  millions  of  people  in 
Ireland. 

At  every  station  there  were  crowds  assembled,  and, 
when  the  cars  stopped,  the  people  rushed  forward  to 
shake  hands  with  the  General.  Some  were  old  soldiers 
who  had  been  in  the  American  army.  One  remarked  that 
Grant  had  captured  him  at  Paducah.  Another  asked  Gen- 
eral Grant  to  give  him  a  shilling  in  remembrance  of  old 
times.  The  people  were  all  kindly,  cheering  for  Grant  and 
America.  At  Coleraine  there  was  an  immense  crowd. 
General  Grant,  accompanied  by  the  Member  of  Par- 
liament, Mr.  Taylor,  left  the  cars,  entered  the  waiting-room 
at  the  depot,  and  received  an  address.  In  reply,  General 
Grant  repeated  the  hope  and  belief,  expressed  in  his  Dublin 
speech,  that  the  period  of  depression  was  ended,  and  that 
American  prosperity  was  aiding  Irish  prosperity.  At 
Ballymoney  there  was  another  crowd.  As  the  train  neared 
Pelfast,  a  heavy  rain  began  to  fall. 

The  train  reached  Belfast  station  at  half-past  two 
»/'clock.     The  reception  accorded  General  Grant  was  im- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  157 

posing  and  extraordinary.  The  linen  and  other  mills  had 
stopped  work,  and  the  workmen  stood  out  in  the  rain  in 
thousands.  The  platform  of  the  station  was  covered  with 
scarlet  carpet.  The  Mayor  and  Members  of  the  City 
Council  welcomed  the  General,  who  descended  from  the 
car  amid  tremendous  cheers.  Crowds  ran  after  the  car- 
riages containing  the  city  authorities  and  their  illustrious 
guest,  and  afterward  surrounded  the  hotel  where  the  Gen- 
eral was  entertained.  Belfast  was  en  fete.  The  public 
buildings  were  draped  with  American  and  English  colors, 
and  in  a  few  instances  with  orange  flags.  Luncheon  was 
served  at  four  o'clock,  and  the  crowd,  with  undaunted  valor, 
remained  outside  amid  a  heavy  snow  storm,  and  cheered  at 
intervals.  The  feature  of  the  luncheon  was  the  presence 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  of  the  diocese,  who  was 
given  the  post  of  honor.  The  luncheon  party  numbered 
one  hundred  and  seventy  —  the  Mayor  said  he  could  have 
had  five  thousand. 

The  Belfast  speakers  made  cordial  allusions  to  many 
people  in  America,  and  were  anxious  to  have  Grant  de- 
clare himself  in  favor  of  free  trade,  but  the  General  in  his 
reply  made  no  allusions  to  the  subject,  to  the  disappoint- 
ment of  many  of  those  present.  ^Minister  Noyes  made  a 
hit  in  his  speech  when  he  said  that  General  Grant  showed 
his  appreciation  of  Belfast  men  by  appointing  A.  T.  Stew- 
art, of  Belfast,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  offering 
George  H.  Stuart,  a  Belfast  boy,  the  portfolio  of  Secretary 
of  the  Navv. 

After  the  luncheon  was  over.  General  Grant  remained 
quietly  in  his  apartments,  receiving  many  calls,  some  from 
old  soldiers  who  served  under  him  during  the  war. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  January  9,  General 
Grant  and  his  party,  accompanied  by  Mayor  Brown,  vis- 
ited sevei'al  of  the  large  mills  and  industrial  establishments 
of  the  city.      Before  he  left  the  hotel  he  was  waited  on  by 


158  GENERAL    U.    S,    GRANt's 

»  number  of  the  leading  citizens  and  several  clergymen. 
Bishop  Ryan,  the  Catholic  Bishop  of  Buflfalo,  and  Mr. 
Cronin,  editor  of  the  Catholic  Uniofi^  were  among  the 
callers,  and  had  a  pleasant  interview.  The  General  then 
drove  to  the  warehouses  of  several  merchants  in  the  linen 
trade,  to  the  factories  and  shipyards.  At  the  immense  ship- 
yard where  the  White  Star  steamers  were  built,  the  work- 
men, numbering  two  thousand,  gathered  around  Grant's 
carriage  and  cheered  as  they  ran  alongside.  The  public 
buildings  and  many  of  the  shops  were  decorated.  The 
weather  was  clear  and  cold. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  General  left  for 
Dublin.  Immense  crowds  had  gathered  at  the  hotel  and 
at  the  railway  station.  The  Mayor,  with  Sir  John  Pres* 
ton  and  the  American  Consul,  James  M.  Donnan,  accom- 
panied the  General  to  the  depot.  As  the  train  moved  off 
the  crowd  gave  tremendous  cheers,  the  Mayor  taking  the 
initiative.  One  Irishman  in  an  advanced  stage  of  enthusi- 
asm^ called  out:  "Three  cheers  for  Oliver  Cromwell 
Grant!"     To  this  there  was  only  a  faint  response. 

At  Portadown,  Dundalk,  Drogheda  and  other  stations, 
there  were  immense  crowds,  the  populations  apparently 
turning  out  en  masse.  Grant  was  loudly  cheered,  and 
thousands  surrounded  the  car  with  the  hope  of  being  able 
to  shake  the  General  by  the  hand,  all  wishing  him  a  safe 
journey.  One  little  girl  created  considerable  merriment 
by  asking  the  General  to  give  her  love  to  her  aunt  in 
America.  All  the  Belfast  journals,  in  more  or  less  acri- 
monious terms,  denounced  the  action  of  the  Council  of  Cork. 
At  Dundalk,  the  brother  of  Robert  Nugent,  who  was 
Lieutenant-Colonel  of  the  Sixty-ninth  New  York  Regi- 
ment in  1861,  and  afterward  commander  of  a  brigade  in  the 
Second  Corps,  Army  of  the  Potomac,  said  he  was  glad  to 
welcome  his  brother's  old  commander. 

The    Belfast    limited    mail    train,    conveying    General 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I59 

Grant,  artived  at  Dublin  fourteen  minutes  behind  time  on 
the  Sth.  Lord  Mayor  Barrington  and  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  persons  were  on  the  platform  at  the  railway  station, 
iind  cordially  welcomed  the  General.  As  soon  as  all  the 
party  had  descended,  the  Lord  jMayor  invited  the  General 
into  his  carriage  and  drove  him  to  Westward  Row,  where 
the  Irish  mail  train  was  ready  to  depart,  having  been  de- 
tained eight  minutes  for  the  ex-President. 

There  was  a  most  cordial  farewell  and  a  gfreat  shakin<j 
of  hands.  The  Mayor  and  his  friends  begged  General  Grant 
to  return  soon  and  make  a  longer  stay.  Soon  Kingston  was 
reached,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  party  were  in  the  special 
cabin  which  had  been  provided  for  them  on  board  the  mail 
steamer.  Special  attention  was  jDaid  to  the  General  by  the 
officers  of  the  vessel.  General  Grant  left  the  Irish  shores  at 
twenty  minutes  past  seven  o'clock. 

When  the  steamer  was  about  to  start,  the  Inspector  of 
Detectives  inquired  minutely  concernnig  each  member  of 
the  General's  party  then  on  board,  apparently  to  satisfy  him- 
self that  tney  were  exactly  ine  same  gentlemen  who  lanueu 
here  five  days  before,  and  that  none  who  came  were  disguised 
Fenian  emissaries  masquerading  as  American  generals,  and 
who  had  remained  behind  while  allowing  some  of  their  ac- 
complices to  get  away  under  the  same  disguise. 

In  his  reception  at  Belfast  was  shown,  down  to  the  very 
moment  of  his  departure,  an  exuberant  enthusiasm  of 
welcome,  that  is,  perhaps,  justly  understood  as  owing  some 
part  of  its  warmth  to  a  desire  to  protest  against  the  Cork- 
•onian  blunder.  His  welcome  at  Dublin  by  the  Lord  Mayor 
was  another  pleasant  tribute  of  good  will;  while  the  un- 
easiness of  the  police  inspector,  eager  to  know  whether 
this  descent  of  a  foreign  soldier  on  Irish  soil  was  not,  after 
all,  some  Fenian  project  in  disguise,  was  characteristic, 
laughable,  and  perhaps  the  best  a  policeman  could  do  in  the 
way  of  a  compliment.     General  Grant's  visit  to  Ireland  was 


l6o  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt'S 

ended;  and  it  may  be  fairly  said  of  it  that  a  public  man, 
from  a  far  distant  country,  without  official  character,  known 
to  the  world  for  his  military  glory  and  for  services  that 
saved  a  great  republic  from  anarchy,  was  never  more  geni- 
ally, warmly,  earnestly  and  enthusiastically  made  to  feel 
that  heroism,  and,  above  all,  heroism  in  the  cause  of  lib- 
erty, has  no  country,  but  is  equally  at  home  in  any  part  of 
the  world,  where  there  is  a  people  with  a  soul  to  appreciate 
great  services  and  the  aspiration  to  be  free.  An  event  like 
General  Grant's  welcome  in  Ireland  does  not  happen  in  the 
lives  of  many  men.  Our  own  welcome  to  Lafayette  on 
his  revisiting  this  country  might  be  compared  to  it,  but 
that  we  were  under  the  obligation  of  a  people  m  whose 
own  cause  that  soldier  fought;  and  the  Irish  welcome  to 
General  Grant  was,  therefore,  even  more  generous,  for  there 
was  not  even  the  obligation  of  gratitude  in  it.  As  for  the 
little  fly  spot  put  on  this  fine  picture  by  the  Corkoni- 
ans,  why,  it  may  be  admitted  that  even  an  Irish  city 
can  produce  some  pitiful  fellows,  who  want  to  become 
distinguished  for  their  very  meanness,  if  they  have  no 
worthier  qualities.  Some  sharp-sighted  democrats  have 
seen  in  this  visit  to  Ireland  a  strategic  move  on  the  Irish 
vote,  should  the  General  ever  enter  public  life  again.  It 
is  one  of  the  misfortunes  that  dog  public  men  in  a  country 
like  ours,  that  every  act  of  their  lives  has  to  be  judged 
from  the  standpoint  of  those  who  contemplate  it  in  the  light 
of  the  ignoble  hunt  for  votes.  Some  ground  is  given  by 
what  opponents  of  General  Grant  say  to  the  opinion  that 
they  have  stirred  up  this  Corkonian  trouble  to  head  off  this 
hunt.  If  this  be  true,  they  must  have  been  inspired  under 
the  influence  of  Grant's  lucky  star,  for  they  have  done  him 
a  service  for  which  he  could  not  have  counted  upon  them, 
except  under  the  general  principle  that  a  great  part  of  every 
distinguished  man's  good  fortune  is  due  to  blunders  of  his 
adversaries. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


GRANT   IN    INDIA. 

General  Grant  again  visited  London,  where  a  grand 
dinner  and  reception  was  given  him  by  our  Minister  to 
England,  Mr,  Welsh,  which  was  largely  attended  by  the 
elite  of  London,  and  American  residents.  At  every  station 
en  route  the  greatest  enthusiasm  was  manifested.  The 
General  left  the  next  day  for  Paris,  where  he  was  the 
recipient  of  a  grand  dinner  at  the  United  States  Legation 
on  January  14,  and  a  grand  state  dinner  and  reception  at 
the  Palais  d'  Ely  see,  the  residence  of  President  Mac- 
Mahon. 

Among  the  invited  guests  were  General  Grant  and 
family,  M.  Waddington  and  wife.  General  Noyes  and  wife, 
Miss  King,  Miss  Stevens,  the  members  of  the  Chinese 
Embassy,  the  representatives  of  San  Salvador,  Buenos 
Ayres,  Chili,  Guatemala,  Peru,  Colombia  and  Uruguay, 
and  many  French  generals  and  admirals. 

The  General  left  Paris  for  Marseilles  on  the  evening  of 
January  21.  The  party  accompanying  him  consisted  of 
Mrs.  Grant,  Colonel  Fred.  Grant,  ex-Secretary  of  the  Navy 
A.  E.  Borie,  Dr.  Keating,  and  the  Herald  correspondent, 
who  made  the  whole  trip  to  India.  General  Badeau  went 
as  far  as  Marseilles.  Generals  Noyes  and  Fairchild,  Secre- 
taries Hill,  Ttgneau,  and  a  large  number  of  Americans,  went 
to  the  station  to  see  the  party  off.  The  train  left  at  a  quar- 
ter past  seven  o'clock,  and  arrived  at  Marseilles  the  follow- 
ing morning  at  eleven  o'clock.  Consul  John  B.  Gould 
II 


l62  GKNEKAL    U.    S.    GKANT's 

received  them  at  the  railway  station.  An  afternoon  recep- 
tion was  held  at  the  Consulate,  where  General  Grant  met 
the  leading  citizens  of  Marseilles.  At  noon  the  party 
embarked  on  the  French  steamship  Labourdonais  for  India, 
via  Sue^.  The  party  embraced  General  and  Mrs.  Grant, 
ex-Secretary  Borie,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Frederick  D. 
Grant,  Dr.  Keating,  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  Herald  cor- 
respondent. 

Geneial  Badeau,  Consul  Gould,  J.  B.  Lippincott,  of 
Philadelphia,  John  Muni-oe,  the  banker,  and  many  other 
citizens,  took  leave  of  General  and  Mrs.  Grant.  The  day 
was  cold  and  the  sky  w^as  tilled  with  masses  of  gray  cloud. 
The  people  of  Marseilles  evinced  great  interest  in  the 
General's  departure.  The  ships  in  the  harbor  were  dressed 
with  flags  and  streamers.  General  Grant  and  his  party 
were  in  the  best  of  health  and  spirits. 

The  steamer  moved  out  of  the  harbor  shortly  after 
twelve  o'clock,  and  the  land  journey  of  General  Grant  in 
Europe  closed  amid  the  kindest  manifestations  of  hi» 
countrymen  at  Marseilles  and  the  French  citizens  of  that 
great  Mediterranean  port.  Marshal  MacMahon  had  sent 
orders  to  the  French  admirals  on  foreign  stations  and  to 
tlie  sfovcrnors  of  French  colonies  to  treat  ex-President 
Grant  with  all  the  honors  due  to  the  head  of  an  independ- 
ent State. 

The  first  hours  on  the  Mediterranean  were  on  a  high 
sea,  but  on  second  the  day  the  sea  went  down  and  charming 
yachting  weather  was  enjoyed.  On  Friday,  January  24, 
the  steamer  passed  between  Corsica  and  Sardina,  having  a 
a  fine  view  of  the  duskv  coasts  of  the  former  island.  On 
the  25th,  about  noon,  Ischia  was  sighted,  and  through  the 
hazy  atmosphere  faint  outlines  of  Vesuvius  could  be  traced. 
Ischia  is  a  beautiful  island,  dotted  with  smiling  villages, 
and  presenting  an  inviting  appearance.  Passing  the  island, 
Capri  was  left  to  the  right,  and  the  vessel  sailed  into  the 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  163 

beautiful  Bay  of  Naples.  The  King's  palace,  the  convent, 
the  range  of  hills  and  the  towering  landscape  remained  un- 
changed, and  at  once  recognized,  though  a  year  had  nearly 
passed  since  the  General's  first  visit.  As  soon  as  the  anchor 
was  dropped,  Mr.  Maynard,  our  Minister  to  Turkey,  and 
Mr.  Duncan,  our  Consul  at  Naples,  came  on  board,  and  a 
delightful  hour  was  passed.  In  the  afternoon  the  Labour- 
donais  steamed  out  to  sea.  On  the  mornmg  of  the  26th 
Stromboli  was  in  sight.  The  General  and  party,  owing 
to  the  stormy  weather,  were  unable  to  see  this  famed 
island  upon  the  previous  voyage  over  this  same  route,  but 
they  were  now  sailing  under  the  shadow  of  this  ancient 
island.  The  volcano  was  throwing  out  ashes  and  smoke  in 
a  feeble,  fretful  manner.  At  the  base  of  this  volcano  is  a 
cluster  of  houses  or  a  village.  What  reason  any  human 
being  can  give  for  remaining  in  Stromboli  is  beyond  the 
knowledge  of  man.  They  are  at  the  absolute  mercy  of 
the  sea  and  the  furnace,  and  far  away  from  neighbors  and 
refuge  and  rescue.  It  must  be  to  gratify  some  poetic  ia« 
stinct,  for  Stromboli  is  poetic  enough.  With  every  turn  of 
the  screw  our  visitors  were  coming  into  the  land  of  classic 
and  religious  fame;  these  islands  through  which  they  were 
sailing  are  the  islands  visited  by  the  wandering  Ulysses. 

Reggio  was  passed,  which  in  ancient  days  was  called 
Rhegium.  It  was  here  that  St.  Paul  landed,  after  Syracuse 
and  j\Ialta  adventures,  carrying  with  him  the  message  of 
Christ,  going  from  this  spot  to  preach  the  gospel  to  all 
mankind. 

Leavvng  Etna  to  the  left,  they  sailed  through  Messina 
Straits,  the  sea  scarcely  rippling,  and  were  soon  again  in 
the  open  sea,  the  land  fading  from  view. 

On  the  second  morning  Crete  was  passed,  the  snow 
upon  her  mountain  ranges  being  plainly  visible  from  the 
decks  of  the  steamer.  At  noon  Crete  faded  from  their 
sight,  and  a  last  farewell  to  Europe  was  uttered  —  farewell 


164  GENERAI.    U.    S.   GRANT's 

to  many  a  bright  and   happy   hour  spent  on  its  shores,  of 
which  all  that  remains  is  the  memory. 

On  the  evening  of  the  29th  of  January  —  it  being  the 
evening  of  the  seventh  day  of  their  journey  from  Mar- 
seilles—  they  came  to  anchor  outside  of  the  harbor  of 
Alexandria.  There  was  some  disappointment  that  the 
steamer  did  not  enter  that  evening,  but  they  were  an  hour  or 
so  late,  and  so  they  swung  at  anchor  and  found  what  conso- 
lation they  could  in  the  enrapturing  glory  of  an  Egyptian 
night.  In  the  morning  when  the  sun  arose,  the  steamer 
picked  her  way  into  the  harbor,  and  when  our  visitors 
came  on  deck  they  found  themselves  at  anchor,  with  Alex- 
andria before  them,  her  minarets  looking  almost  gay  in  the 
fresh  light  of  the  morning  sun.  A  boat  came  out  about 
eight,  bringing  General  C.  P.  Stone,  Mr.  Farman,  our 
Consul-General,  Mr.  Salvago,  our  Consul  in  Alexandria,, 
and  Judge  Morgan  of  the  International  Tribunal.  Gen- 
eral Stone  came  with  kind  messages  from  the  Khedive,  and 
the  hope  that  General  Grant  might  be  able  to  come  to 
Cairo.  But  this  was  not  possible,  as  he  had  to  connect 
with  the  English  steamer  at  Suez,  and  Suez  was  a  long 
day's  journey.  So  all  that  was  left  was  that  they  should 
pull  ashore  as  rapidly  as  possible  and  drive  to  the  train.. 
The  Consul-General,  with  prudent  foresight,  had  arranged 
that  the  train  should  wait  for  the  General,  and  thus  it  came 
that  the  General's  ride  through  Egypt,  from  Alexandria  to 
Suez,  was  during  the  day,  and  not,  as  otherwise  would 
have  happened,  during  the  long  and  weary  night. 

It  must  have  been  pleasant  to  General  Grant  toland  in  a 
quiet,  unostentatious  fashion,  without  pomp  and  ceremony 
and  pachas  in  waiting  and  troops  in  line,  the  blaze  of  trum- 
pets and  the  thunder  of  guns.  The  escape  from  a  salute 
and  a  reception  was  a  great  comfort  to  the  General,  who 
seemed  to  enjoy  having  no  one's  hands  to  shake,  to  enjoy  a 
snug  corner  in  an  ordinary  railway  car,  talking  with  Gen- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  165 

eral  Stone  and  Mr.  Borie  and  the  Consul-General.  The 
train  waited  half  an  hour  for  the  General  and  party, 
and  would  have  been  detained  longer  but  for  the  energ}^ 
and  genius  shown  by  Hassan  —  the  General's  old  friend 
Hassan  —  who  accompanied  him  on  the  Nile.  Hassan,  as 
the  official  guard  of  the  Legation,  wearing  a  sword,  was 
an  authority  in  Egypt,  and  he  used  his  authority  to  the 
utmost  in  having  the  traps  and  parcels  carried  from  the 
wharf  to  the  train.  The  ride  to  Suez  was  without  inci- 
dent, and  Egypt,  as  seen  from  the  car  windows,  was  the 
same  Egypt  about  which  so  much  has  been  written.  The 
fields  were  green,  the  air  was  clear  and  generous,  the 
train  people  were  civil.  When  Arabs  gathered  at  the  doors 
to  call  for  backsheesh  in  the  name  of  the  prophet  Hassan 
made  himself,  not  without  noise  and  effect,  a  beneficent 
influence.  The  General  chatted  with  Stone  about  school 
times  at  West  Point,  about  friends.  Mr.  Borie  made  vari- 
ous attempts  to  see  the  Pyramids  from  the  cars,  and  talked 
over  excursions  that  some  of  the  party  had  made,  and  so 
much  interested  was  he  that  the  party  offered  to  remain 
over  one  steamer  to  enable  him  to  visit  the  Pyramids,  and 
the  Sphinx,  and  the  Serapeum  at  Memphis.  But  General 
Grant  was  too  late  for  India,  and  Mr.  Borie  would  not  con- 
sent to  the  sacrifice  of  valuable  time  on  the  General's  part, 
and  so  they  kept  on  to  Suez.  The  hotel  at  Suez  was  formerly 
a  harem  of  the  Egyptian  princes.  From  the  balcony  one  can 
look  out  on  the  Red  Sea,  on  the  narrow  line  of  water  which 
has  changred  the  commerce  of  the  world  —  the  Suez  canal 
Suez  is  a  small,  clean  town  —  clean  from  an  Oriental  stand- 
point. As  the  steamer  that  was  to  convey  General  Grant 
and  party  to  India  had  not  arrived,  but  was  blocked  in  the 
canal,  the  visitors  had  a  fine  opportunity  to  visit  the  bazaars 
and  town. 

About  five  in  the  afternoon  the  boat  was  sighted,  and,  as 
the  sun  went  down,  General  Grant  went  on  board  the 


l66  GENERAL    U,    S.    GUAN'l's 

steamer,  Mr.  Farman  and  General  Stone  remaining  until 
the  last  moment,  to  say  farewell.  At  eight  o'clock  on  the 
evening  of  January  30,  the  steamer  Venetia,  of  the  Penin- 
sular and  Oriental  Steamship  Company's  line,  moved  out 
into  the  Red  Sea,  and  the  last  words  of  farewell  were 
spoken.  Owing  to  heavy  head  winds,  the  Venetia  did  not 
make  much  headway,  losing  nearly  two  days.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  Red  Sea  is  Aden,  a  town  with  a  population 
of  over  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  It  juts  into  the  mouth 
of  the  Red  Sea,  commanding  the  entrance.  It  was  taken 
by  the  British  in  1S3S,  as  a  part  of  the  English  policy  of 
dotting  the  world  with  guns  and  garrisons.  There  is  a 
garrison,  and  the  forts  are  manned  wuth  heavy  guns.  The 
government  is  martial  law,  tempered  with  bribery.  The 
British  pay  the  native  chiefs  annual  tribute  money  to  behave 
themselves.  Aden  is  a  sort  of  gateway  to  the  Red  Sea 
and  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  regulations  of  the  British 
government  in  reference  to  commerce  are  stringent,  and 
would  scarcely  be  tolerated  on  the  coasts  of  a  stronger 
power  than  Arabia.  Every  vessel  carrying  more  than  a 
certain  number  of  passengers  must  stop  at  Aden.  The 
nominal  reason  is  to  obtain  a  clean  bill  of  health.  The  real 
reason  is,  that  it  enables  the  government  to  keep  a  close 
scrutiny  upon  all  that  is  doing  in  the  Indian  waters.  It 
also  adds  to  the  revenues  of  Aden,  for  every  vessel  that 
stops  sends  money  on  shore,  and  thus  the  fort,  while  secur- 
ing a  most  important  position,  while  commanding  the  Red 
Sea  and  making  it  almost  a  British  lake,  supports  itself. 
It  is  observed  in  studying  the  growth  of  the  British  Em- 
pire, that  the  self-supporting  principle  is  always  encour- 
aged. The  British  give  good  government  and  make  the 
governed  ones  pay  the  bills,  with  a  little  over  for  home 
revenues  when  possible.  Remaining  at  Aden  only  long 
enough  to  coal,  on  the  morning  of  February  6  the  steamer 
headed  for  Bombay.     The  trip  was  a  delightful  one,  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  167 

steamer  scarcely  rolling.  On  the  morning  of  February 
13  Bombay  was  reached. 

The  departure  from  Europe  had  been  so  sudden  that 
General  Grant  had  no  idea  that  even  our  Consul  at  Bom- 
bay knew  of  his  coming.  All  arrangements  were  made  to 
go  to  a  hotel,  and  from  thence  make  their  journey;  but  the 
Venetia  had  scarcely  entered  the  harbor  before  evidences 
were  seen  that  the  General  was  expected.  Ships  in  the 
harbor  were  dressed  with  flags,  and  at  the  wharf  was  a 
large  crowd  —  soldiers,  natives,  Europeans.  As  the  En- 
glish flag-ship  was  passed,  a  boat  came  alongside  with  an 
officer  representing  Admiral  Corbett,  welcoming  the  Gen- 
eral to  India.  In  a  few  minutes  came  another  boat  bearing 
Captain  Frith,  the  military  aid  to  Sir  Richard  Temple, 
Governor  of  the  Presidency  of  Bombay.  Captain  Frith 
bore  a  letter  from  the  Governor  welcoming:  the  General 
to  Bombay,  and  offering  him  the  use  of  the  Government 
House  at  Malabar  Point.  Captain  Frith  expressed  the 
regret  of  Su-  Richard  that  he  could  not  be  in  Bombay  to 
meet  General  Grant,  but  duties  connected  with  the  Afghan 
war  kept  him  in  Sind.  The  Consul,  Mr.  Farnham,  also 
came  with  a  delegation  of  American  residents,  and  wel- 
comed the  General  and  party. 

At  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  last  farewells  were 
spoken.  They  took  leave  of  the  many  kind  and  pleasant 
friends  they  had  made  on  the  Venetia,  and  went  on  board 
the  government  yacht.  The  landing  was  at  the  Apollo 
Bunder — the  spot  where  the  Prince  of  Wales  landed.  As 
they  drew  near  the  shore  there  was  an  immense  crowd 
lining  the  wharf,  and  a  company  of  Bombay  volunteers  in 
line.  As  the  General  ascended  the  steps  he  was  met  by 
Brigadier-General  Aitcheson,  commanding  the  forces;  Sir 
Francis  Souter,  Commissioner  of  Police;  Mr.  Grant,  the 
Municipal  Commissioner,  and  Colonel  Sexton,  command- 
ing the  Bombay  Volunteers,  all   of   whom    gave   him  a 


l68  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

hearty  welcome  to  India.  The  volunteers  presented  arms, 
the  band  played  our  national  air,  and  the  General,  amid 
loud  cheers  from  the  Europeans  present,  walked  slowly 
with  uncovered  head  to  the  state  carriage.  Accompanied 
by  Captain  Frith,  who  represented  the  Governor,  and  at- 
tended by  an  escort  of  native  cavalry,  the  General  and  party 
made  off  to  Malabar  Point. 

The  General's  home  in  Bombay  was  at  the  Govern- 
ment House,  on  Malabar  Point,  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city. 
Malabar  Point  was  in  other  days  a  holy  place  of  the  Hin- 
doos. Here  was  a  temple,  and  it  was  also  believed  that  if 
those  who  sinned  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  rocks  there 
would  be  expiation  or  regeneration  of  the  soul.  The  Por- 
tuguese who  came  to  India  were  breakers  of  images,  who 
believed  that  the  religion  of  Christ  was  best  served  by  the 
destruction  of  the  Pagan  temples.  Among  the  temples 
which  were  subjected  to  their  pious  zeal  was  one  on  Mala- 
bar Point.  There  are  only  the  ruins  remaining,  and  masses 
of  rock,  bearing  curious  inscriptions,  lie  on  the  hillside. 
Malabar  Point  is  an  edge  of  the  island  of  Bombay  jutting 
out  into  the  Indian  Ocean.  Where  the  bluff  overlooks  the 
waters  it  is  one  hundred  feet  high.  This  remnant  of  the 
rock  has  been  rescued  from  the  sea  and  storm  and  decorated 
with  trees  and  shrubbery,  the  mango  and  the  palm.  Over- 
looking the  sea  is  a  battery  with  five  large  guns,  shining 
and  black,  looking  out  upon  the  ocean  and  keeping  watch 
over  the  Empii^e  of  England.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  a 
residence  like  Government  House  on  Malabar  Point.  Ar- 
chitecture is  simply  a  battle  with  the  sun.  The  house  is  a 
group  of  houses.  As  you  drive  in  the  grounds  through 
stone  gates  that  remind  you  of  the  porter's  lodges  at  some 
stately  English  mansions,  you  pass  through  an  avenue  of 
mango  trees,  past  beds  of  flowers  throwing  out  their  deli- 
cate fragrance  on  the  warm  morning  air.  You  come  to  a 
one-storied    house    surrounded    with    spacious    verandas. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  169 

There  is  a  wide  state  entrance  covered  with  red  cloth.  A 
guard  is  at  the  foot,  a  native  guard  wearing  the  English 
scarlet,  on  his  shoulders  the  number  indicating  the  regi- 
ment. You  pass  up  the  stairs,  a  line  of  servants  on  either 
side.  The  servants  are  all  Mohammedans;  they  wear  long 
scarlet  gowns,  with  white  turbans;  on  the  breast  is  a  belt 
with  an  imperial  crown  for  an  escutcheon.  They  salute 
you  with  the  grave,  submissive  grace  of  the  East,  touching 
the  forehead  and  bending  low  the  head,  in  token  of  wel- 
come and  duty.  You  enter  a  hall  and  pass  between  two 
rooms — large,  high,  decorated  in  blue  and  white,  and  look 
out  upon  the  gardens  below,  the  sea  beyond  and  the  towers 
of  Bombay.  One  of  these  rooms  is  the  state  dining-room, 
large  enough  to  dine  fifty  people.  The  other  is  the  state 
drawing-room.  This  house  is  only  used  for  ceremonies, 
for  meals  and  receptions. 

General  Grant  was  the  guest  of  the  Governor,  and  the 
honors  of  his  house  were  done  by  Captains  Frith  and  Rad- 
clifF  of  the  army.  Meals  were  taken  in  the  state  dining- 
room.     Mrs.  Grant  enjoyed  every  moment  of  her  visit. 

The  attentions  paid  to  the  General  and  his  party  by  the 
people  of  Bombay  were  so  marked  and  continuous  that 
most  of  their  time  was  taken  up  in  receiving  and  acknowl- 
ing  them.  What  most  interested  them,  coming  fresh  from 
Europe,  was  the  entire  novelty  of  the  scene,  the  way  of 
living,  the  strange  manners  and  customs.  All  impressions, 
of  India,  gathered  from  the  scattered  reading  of  busy  days 
at  home,  are  vague.  Somehow  one  associates  India  with 
ideas  of  pageanty.  The  history  of  the  country  has  been 
written  in  such  glowing  colors  —  one  who  has  read  Oriental 
poems,  and  fallen  under  the  captivating  rhetoric  of  Mac- 
aulay,  looks  for  nature  in  a  luxuriant  form,  for  splendor 
and  ornament,  for  bazaars  laden  with  gems  and  gold,  for 
crowded  highways,  with  elephants  slowly  plodding  their 
way  along. 


lyo  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

Therefore,  when  India  is  seen  —  India  as  seen  in  this  her 
greatest  city —  one  is  surprised  to  find  it  all  so  hard  and  baked 
and  brown.  The  greenness  of  field  and  hillside  is  missed. 
A  people  who  have  nothing  in  common  with  any  race 
known.  There  are  so  many  types,  curious  and  varying, 
that  impressions  are  bewildering  and  indefinite.  In  time, 
as  the  country  is  known  and  understood,  it  will  be  seen  that 
this  civilization  has  lines  of  harmony  like  that  left  behind; 
that  there  are  reasons  for  all  the  odd  things,  just  as  there 
are  reasons  for  many  odd  things  in  America;  and  that 
Indian  civilization  even  now  —  when  its  glory  has  departed, 
its  mightiest  States  are  mere  appendages  of  the  British 
Empire,  when  day  after  day  it  bends  and  crumbles  under 
the  stern  hand  and  cold  brain  of  the  Saxon  —  is  rich  in  the 
lessons  and  qualities  which  have  for  ages  excited  the  am- 
bition and  wonder  of  the  world. 

On  Friday  night.  General  Grant  visited  the  ball  of  the 
Volunteer  Corps,  and  was  received  by  Colonel  Sexton. 
The  ballroom  was  profusely  decorated  with  flags  —  the 
American  flag  predominating.  On  Saturday,  at  two 
o'clock,  he  visited  Dossabhoy  Merwanjee,  a  Parsee  mer- 
chant. The  reception  was  most  cordial,  the  ladies  of  the 
family  decorating  the  General  and  party  with  wreaths  of 
jasmine  flowers.  In  the  afternoon  he  drove  to  the  By- 
culla  Club,  lunched,  and  looked  at  the  races.  In  the  eve- 
ning there  was  a  state  dinner  at  the  Government  House, 
with  forty-eight  guests.  The  government  band  played 
during  dinner.  The  member  of  council,  Hon.  James 
Gibbs,  who  represents  the  Governor,  was  in  the  chaii\  At 
the  close  of  the  dinner,  he  proposed  the  health  of  the  Gen- 
eral, who  arose,  amid  loud  cheering,  and  said  that  he  was 
now  carrying  out  a  wish  he  had  long  entertained,  of  visit- 
ing India  and  the  countries  of  the  ancient  world.  His 
reception  in  Bombay  had  been  most  gratifying.  The  cor- 
diality of  the  people,  the  princely  hospitality  of  the  Gov- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  1^1 

ernor,  the  kindness  of  the  members  of  the  household,  all 
combined  to  make  him  feel  the  sincerity  of  the  welcome. 
It  was  only  a  continuance  of  the  friendliness  he  had  met 
in  Europe,  and  which  was  especially  grateful  to  him 
because  it  indicated  a  friendly  feeling  toward  his  own  coun- 
try. In  this  spirit  he  accepted  it,  for  he  knew  of  nothing 
that  would  go  further  toward  insuring  peace  to  all  nations, 
and  with  peace  the  blessings  of  civilization,  than  a  perfect 
understanding  between  Englishmen  and  Americans,  the 
great  English-speaking  nations  of  the  world.  The  Gen- 
eral said  he  hoped  he  might  see  his  hosts  in  America.  He 
would  be  most  happy  to  meet  them,  and  return  the  hospi- 
tality he  had  received.  He  was  sorry  he  could  not  see  Sir 
Richard  Temple,  the  Governor  of  Bombay,  of  whom  he 
had  heard  a  great  deal  and  whom  he  was  anxious  to  meet. 
But  he  would  ask  them  to  join  with  him  in  drinking  the 
health  of  the  Governor.  This  sentiment  was  drank  with 
all  the  honors.  The  dinner  was  finelj^  served,  and  after 
dinner  the  General  and  guests  strolled  about  on  the  veranda, 
smoking  or  chatting,  looking  out  on  the  calm  and  murmur- 
ing ocean  that  rolled  at  their  feet,  and  the  lights  of  the  city 
beyond.  There  was  a  luncheon  with  Sir  Michael  R.  Wes- 
tropp.  Chief  Justice  of  Bombay. 

Subsequently  General  Grant  visited  the  English  man- 
of-war  Euryolus,  the  flagship  of  the  English  squadron  in 
India.  Admiral  Coi'bett  received  the  General,  and  on  his 
leaving  the  vessel  fired  twenty-one  guns.  There  was  a 
visit  to  the  Elephanta  caves,  one  of  the  sights  in  India. 
The  visitors  left  the  wharf,  and  steamed  across  the  bay  in 
a  small  launch  belonging  to  the  government.  The  after- 
noon was  beautiful,  the  islands  in  the  bay  breaking  up  the 
horizon  into  various  forms  of  beauty,  that  resembled  the 
islands  of  the  Mediterranean.  Elephanta  caves  belong  to 
Hindoo  theology.  Here  in  the  rocks  the  Brahmins  built 
their  temples,  and  now  on  the  holy  days  the  people  come 


172  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

and  worship  their  gods  according  to  the  ritual  of  their 
ancestors.  What  the  temple  might  have  been  in  its  best 
days  cannot  be  imagined  from  the  ruins. 

Having  reached  the  temples,  they  strolled  about,  study- 
ing the  figures,  noting  the  columns  and  the  curious  archi- 
tecture, full,  rude,  massive,  unlike  any  forms  of  architectural 
art  familiar  to  Americans.  The  main  temple  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  the  same  in  width. 
The  idols  are  hewn  out  of  the  rock.  The  faces  of  some 
are  comely,  and  there  is  a  European  expression  in  the  fea- 
tures that  startles  you.  The  type  is  a  higher  one  than 
those  seen  in  Egypt.  One  of  the  idols,  supposed  to  be  the 
Hindoo  Trinity  —  Brahmin,  Vishnu  and  Siva.  There  is  a 
figure  of  a  woman  —  the  wife  of  Siva — and  it  is  seen  in 
these  pagan  faiths  that  woman,  who  holds  so  sad  a  place 
in  their  domestic  economy,  was  worshiped  as  fervently  as 
some  of  us  worship  the  Virgin.  It  is  the  tribute  which 
even  the  heathen  pays,  as  if  by  instinct,  to  the  supreme 
blessing  of  maternity.  But  when  the  Portuguese  came, 
with  the  sword  and  the  cross,  little  mercy  was  shown  to 
the  homes  of  the  pagan  gods.  It  is  believed  that  these  tem- 
ples were  cut  out  of  the  rocks  in  the  tenth  century,  and 
that  for  eight  hundred  years  these  stony  emblems  were 
worshiped. 

On  Monday  the  General  was  entertained  in  state  at  the 
Government  House  at  Malabar  Point.  Hon.  James  Gibbs, 
the  member  of  the  council  who  acted  as  Governor  in  the 
absence  of  Sir  Richard  Temple,  presided,  and  at  the  close 
of  the  dinner  the  company  drank  the  health  of  the  General. 
In  response  the  General  referred  to  the  kindness  he  had 
received  in  India,  which  was  only  renewing  the  kindness 
shown  him  all  over  Europe,  and  which  he  accepted  as  an 
evidence  of  the  good  will  which  really  existed  between 
Englishmen  and  Americans,  and  which  was  to  his  mind 
the  best  assurance  of  peace  for  all   nations.     After  the  din- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  1 73 

ner  the  General  received  a  large  number  of  the  native 
merchants  and  gentlemen  of  Bombay.  It  may  seem  odd 
to  American  eyes  that  merchants  and  gentlemen  should  be 
asked  to  come  in  at  the  end  of  a  feast,  and  not  to  take 
part.  But  this  exclusion  is  their  own  wish.  Many  of 
these  merchants  and  gentlemen  belong  to  castes  who  look 
on  the  food  of  the  Europeans  as  unclean,  who  believe  in 
the  sacredness  of  life  and  will  not  eat  animal  food,  and 
who  could  not  sit  at  the  table  with  the  General  without 
losing  caste.  These  men  will  meet  you  in  business,  will 
serve  you  in  various  ways,  but  their  religion  prevents 
their  sharing  your  table.  So  the  invitation  to  the  natives, 
to  meet  the  General  was  fixed  at  an  hour  when  dinner  was 
over. 

They  came  in  groups  —  Hindoos,  Arabs,  Parsees,  native 
officers  —  in  uniforms,  in  quaint  flowing  costumes.  The 
General  stood  at  the  head  of  the  hallway,  with  Mr.  Gibbs 
and  Major  Rivet-Carnac,  the  Governor's  military  secre- 
tary. As  each  native  advanced,  he  was  presented  to  the 
General  with  some  word  of  history  or  compliment  from 
Mr.  Gibbs.  "  This  is  So-and-So,  an  eminent  Brahmin 
scholar,  who  stands  high  among  our  barristers;"  or,  "this 
is  So-and-So,  a  Parsee  merchant,  who  has  done  a  great 
deal  of  good  to  Bombay,  and  has  been  knighted  for  his. 
services  by  the  Queen ; "  or,  "  this  is  the  oldest  Arab- 
merchant;"  or,  "  this  is  a  gallant  officer  of  our  native 
cavalry ;"  or,  "  this  is  the  leading  diamond  merchant 
in  Bombay,  a  Hindoo  gentleman,  one  of  the  richest 
in  India."  As  each  of  them  advanced,  it  was  with  folded 
hands,  as  in  prayer,  or  saluting  by  touching  the  breast 
and  brow  in  the  submissive,  graceful,  bending  way. 
Here  were  men  of  many  races  —  the  Parsee,  from  Persia^ 
the  Arab,  from  Cairo,  whose  ancestors  may  have  ridden 
with  Omar;  the  Brahmin  of  a  holy  caste,  in  whose  veins. 
runs  the  stainless  blood  of  Indian  nobility,  descendant  of 


174  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

men  who  were  priests  and  rulers  ages  before  England  had 
risen  from  her  clouds  of  barbarism.  Between  these  races 
there  is  no  love.  If  they  do  not  like  England,  they  hate 
one  another.  Religious  differences,  tradition,  memories  of 
war  and  conquest,  the  unaccountable  antipathies  of  race 
which  have  not  been  eliminated  from  their  civilization  — 
all  generate  a  fierce  animosity  which  would  break  into 
flames  once  the  restraining  hand  were  lifted.  What  welds 
them  together  is  the  power  of  England;  and  as  you  look 
at  this  picturesque  group  —  their  heads,  full  eyes,  their  fine 
Asiatic  type  of  face,  clear  and  well  cut  —  here  assembled 
peacefully,  you  see  the  extent  of  the  empire  to  which 
they  all  owe  allegiance,  and  admire  the  genius  and  courage 
which  has  brought  them  to  submit  to  a  rule  which,  what' 
ever  it  may  have  been  m  tlie  past,  grows  more  and  more 
beneficent. 

The  General  left  Bombay  on  Tuesday,  February  i8, 
having  driven  into  town  and  made  some  farewell  calls. 
At  five  he  left  Government  House  in  a  state  carriage, 
accompanied  by  Major  Uarnac,  who  represented  Governor 
Temple,  and  escorted  by  a  squadron  of  cavalry.  On  arriv- 
ing at  the  station  there  was  a  guard  of  honor  of  native 
infantry  drawn  up,  which  presented  arms  and  lowered 
colors.  All  the  leading  men  of  the  Bombay  Government 
—  Parsee  and  native  merchants;  our  Consul,  Mr.  Farnham, 
whose  kindness  was  untiring;  Mr.  Gibbs,  and  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  government  household,  were  present.  In  a 
few  minutes  the  signal  for  leaving  was  made,  and,  the 
General  thanking  his  good  friends  of  Malabar  Point,  the 
train  pushed  off  amid  cheers  and  the  salutes  of  the  mili- 
tary. 

On  the  20th  of  February  the  party  an-ived  at  Tatul- 
pur,  and  visited  the  Marble  Rocks,  on  the  Norbudda 
River,  riding  there  on  elephants  provided  by  the  govern- 
ment. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I 75 

The  General  arrived  at  Allahabad  on  the  22d  of  Feb- 
ruary, where  he  was  received  by  Sir  George  Cowper, 
Lieutenant-Governor  ot"  the  Northwest  Provinces,  and 
was  escorted  to  the  Government  House. 

The  General  arrived  at  Agra  on  the  23d,  and  on  the 
following  day  he  visited  Jeypore,  where  he  was  received 
by  the  Maharajah  with  his  ministers,  and  the  English 
Resident,  Dr.  Hendlcy.  As  the  General  descended,  the 
Maharajah,  who  wore  the  ribbon  and  star  of  the  Order  of 
India,  advanced  and  shook  hands,  welcoming  him  to  his 
dominions.  The  Maharajah  is  a  small,  rather  fragile  per- 
son, with  a  serious,  almost  a  painful,  expression  of  counten- 
ance, but  an  intelligent,  keen  face.  He  looked  like  a  man  of 
sixty.  His  movements  were  slow,  impassive  —  the  move- 
ments of 'bid  age.  This  may  be  a  mannerism,  nowever, 
for  on  studying  his  foce  you  could  see  that  there  is  some 
youth  in  it.  On  his  brow  were  the  crimson  emblems  of 
his  caste  —  the  warrior  caste  of  Rajpootana.  His  Highness 
does  not  speak  English,  although  he  understands  it,  and 
our  talk  was  through  an  interpreter.  After  the  exchange 
of  courtesies  and  a  few  moments'  conversation,  the  General 
drove  off  to  the  English  Residency,  accompanied  by  a  com- 
pany of  Jeypore  cavalry.  The  Residency  is  some  distance 
from  the  station.  It  is  a  fine,  large  mansion,  surroundea 
by  a  park  and  garden. 

It  was  arranged  that  the  General  should  visit  Amber, 
the  ancient  capital  of  Jeypore,  one  of  the  most  curious 
sights  in  India.  Amber  was  the  capital  until  the  close  of 
the  seventeenth  century.  It  was  one  of  the  freaks  of  the 
princes  who  once  reigned  in  India,  that  when  they  tired  of 
a  capital  or  a  palace,  they  wandered  off  and  built  a  new 
one,  leaving  the  other  to  run  to  waste.  The  ruins  of  India 
are  as  a  general  thing  the  abandoned  palaces  and  temples 
of  kings  who  grew  weary  of  their  toy  and  craved  another. 
This  is  why  Amber  is  now  an  abandoned  town  and  Jeypore 


176  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

the  capital.  If  the  Maharajah  were  to  tire  of  Jeypore  and 
return  to  Amber,  the  town  would  accompany  him,  for 
without  the  Court  the  town  would  die.  Traveling  in  India 
must  be  done  very  early  in  the  morning,  and,  although  the 
visitors  had  had  a  severe  day's  journey,  they  left  for  Amber 
at  seven  in  the  morning.  A  squadron  of  the  Maharajah's 
cavalry  accompanied  them.  They  are  fine  horsemen,  and 
wear  quilted  uniforms  of  printed  cotton.  The  drive 
through  Jeypore  was  interesting,  from  the  fact  that  they 
were  now  in  a  native  citv,  under  native  rule.  Heretofore 
the  India  they  had  seen  was  India  under  Englishmen;  but 
Jeypore  is  sovereign,  with  power  of  life  and  death  over  its 
own  subjects.  The  city  is  purely  Oriental,  and  is  most 
picturesque  and  striking.  There  are  two  or  three  broad 
streets,  and  one  or  two  squares,  that  would  do  no  discredit 
to  Paris.  The  architecture  is  Oriental,  and,  as  all  the  houses 
are  painted  after  the  same  pattern,  in  rose  color,  it  gives 
you  the  impression  that  it  is  all  the  same  building.  The 
streets  had  been  swept  for  the  coming  of  the  visitors,  and 
men,  carrying  goatskins  of  water,  were  sprinkling  them. 
Soldiers  were  stationed  at  various  points  to  salute,  and 
sometimes  the  salute  was  accompanied  with  a  musical  bang- 
ing on  various  instruments  of  the  national  air.  The  best 
that  India  can  do  for  a  distinguished  American,  is  "God 
Save  the  Queen." 

There  are  gas  lamps  in  Jeypore;  this  is  a  tremendous 
advance  in  civilization.  One  of  the  first  things  General 
Grant  heard  in  India,  was  that  in  Jeypore  lived  a  great 
prince,  a  most  enlightened  prince,  quite  English  in  his  ideas, 
who  had  gas  lamps  in  his  streets.  He  had  a  theatre  almost 
ready  for  occupancy;  there  was  a  troupe  of  Parsee  players 
in  town,  who  had  come  all  the  way  from  Bombay,  and 
were  waiting  to  open  it.  The  ^Maharajah  was  sorry  he 
could  not  show  the  General  a  play. 

To  go  to  Amber,  General  Grant  and  party  must  ride 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I'J'J 

elephants,  for  after  a  few  miles  the  hills  come,  and  the  roads 
are  broken,  and  carriages  are  of  no  value.  Camels  or  horses 
could  be  used,  but  the  Maharajah  had  sent  elephants,  and 
they  were  waiting  for  them  under  a  grove  of  mango  trees, 
drawn  up  by  the  side  of  the  road,  as  if  to  salute.  The 
principal  elephant  wore  a  scarlet  cloth,  as  a  special  honor 
to  the  General.  The  elephant  means  authority  in  India, 
and,  when  you  wish  to  do  your  guest  the  highest  honor,  you 
mount  him  on  an  elephant.  The  Maharajah  also  sent  sedan 
chairs  for  those  who  preferred  an  easier  and  swifter  convey- 
ance. 

Mrs.  Grant  chose  the  sedan  chair,  and  was  switched  off 
at  a  rapid  pace  up  the  ascending  road  by  four  Hindoo 
bearers.  The  pace  at  which  these  chairs  is  carried  is  a 
short,  measured  quickstep,  so  that  there  is  no  uneasiness  to 
the  rider.  The  rest  mounted  the  elephants.  Elephant- 
riding  is  a  curious  and  not  an  unpleasant  experience.  The 
animal  is  under  perfect  control,  and  very  often,  especially 
in  the  case  of  such  a  man  as  the  ruler  of  Jeypore,  has  been 
for  generations  in  the  same  family.  The  elephant  is  under 
the  care  of  a  driver,  called  a  mahout.  The  mahout  sits  on 
the  neck,  or  more  properly  the  head,  of  the  elephant,  and 
guides  him  with  a  stick  or  sharp  iron  prong,  with  which  he 
strikes  the  animal  on  the  top  of  the  head.  Between  the 
elephant  and  mahout  there  are  relations  of  affection.  The 
mahout  lives  with  the  elephant,  gives  him  his  food,  and 
each  animal  has  its  own  keeper.  The  huge  creature  be- 
comes in  time  as  docile  as  a  kitten,  and  will  obey  any  order 
of  the  inahout.  The  elephant  reaches  a  great  age.  It  is 
not  long  since  there  died  at  Calcutta  the  elephant  which 
carried  Warren  Hastings  when  Governor  General  of  India, 
a  century  ago.  There  are  two  methods  of  riding  elephants. 
One  is  in  a  box  like  the  four  seats  of  a  carriage,  the  other 
on  a  square  quilted  seat,  your  feet  hanging  over  the  sides, 
something   like  an   Irish  jaunting   car.      The   first  plan  is 

12 


I  7^  GKN'EKAL    U.    S.    GKANT's 

good  for  hunting,  but  for  comfort  the  second  is  the  better, 
At  a  signal  from  the  mahout  the  elephant  slowly  kneels. 
When  the  elephant  rises,  which  he  does  two  legs  at  a  time, 
deliberately,  the  rider  must  hold  on  to  the  rail  of  the  seat. 
Once  on  his  feet,  he  swings  along  at  a  slow,  wabbling  pace. 
The  motion  is  an  easy  one,  like  that  of  a  boat  in  a  light 
sea.  In  time,  if  going  long  distances,  it  becomes  very 
tiresome. 

Arrived  at  Ambr",  the  General  found  Mrs.  Grant  with 
her  couriers,  havi:_^  arrived  some  time  before,  and  had 
mounted  to  a  window  high  up  in  the  palace,  and  was 
waving  her  handkerchief.  The  visitors  had  reached  the 
temjDle  while  worship  was  in  progresso  Dr.  Hendley 
informed  the  General  that  he  was  in  time  to  take  part 
in  the  services  and  to  see  tiie  priest  offer  up  a  kid. 
Every  day  in  the  year  in  this  temple  a  kid  is  offered 
up  as  a  projDitiation  for  the  sins  of  the  Maharajah. 

The  temple  was  little  more  than  a  room  in  the  palace  —  a 
private  chapel.  At  one  end  was  a  platform  raised  a  few  inch 
es  from  the  ground  and  coverea  oven  On  this  platform  were 
the  images  of  the  gods  —  of  the  special  God.  Whatever 
the  god,  the  worship  was  in  full  progress,  and  there  was 
the  kid  ready  for  sacrifice.  Entering  the  enclosure,  the 
visitors  stood  with  uncovered  heads;  only  some  half  a  dozen 
worshipers  were  crouching  on  the  ground.  One  of  the 
attendants  held  the  kid,  while  the  priest  was  crouching  over 
it,  reading  from  the  sacred  books,  and  in  a  half  humming, 
half  whining  chant  blessing  the  sacrifice,  and  as  he  said 
each  prayer  putting  some  grain  or  spice  or  oil  on  its  head. 
The  poor  animal  licked  the  crumbs  as  they  fell  about  it, 
quite  unconscious  of  its  holy  fate.  Another  attendant  took 
a  sword  and  held  it  before  the  priest.  He  read  some  pray- 
ers over  the  sword  and  consecrated  it.  Then  the  kid  was 
carried  to  the  corner,  where  there  was  a  small  heap  of  sand 
or  ashes  and  a  gutter  to  carry  away  the  blood.     The  priest 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


179 


continued  his  prayers,  the  kid's  head  was  suddenly  drawn 
down  and  with  one  blow  severed  from  the  body.  The 
virtue  of  the  sacrifice  consists  in  the  head  falling  at  the  first 
blow,  and  so  expert  do  the  priests  become  that  at  some  of 
the  great  sacrifices,  where  bufl"alo  are  offered  up  in  expiation 
of  the  princely  sins,  they  will  take  off  the  buffalo's  head 
with  one  stroke  of  the  sword.  The  kid,  having  performed 
the  office  of  expiation,  becomes  useful  for  the  priestly 
dinner. 

Of  the  palace  of  Amber  the  most  one  can  say  is  that  it 
is  curious  and  interesting  as  the  home  of  an  Indian  King  in 
the  days  when  India  was  ruled  by  her  Kings,  and  a  Hastings 
and  a  Clive  had  not  come  to  rend  and  destroy.  The 
Maharajah  has  not  quite  abandoned  it.  He  comes  some- 
tmies  to  tne  great  leasts  of  the  faith,  and  a  few  apartments 
are  kept  for  him.  His  rooms  were  ornamented  with  look- 
^"g-g^^^s  decorations,  with  carved  marble  which  the  artisan 
had  fashioned  into  tracery  so  delicate  that  it  looked  like 
lacework.  What  strikes  one  in  this  Oriental  decoration  i« 
its  tendency  to  light,  bright,  lacelike  gossamer  work, 
showing  infinite  pains  and  patience  in  the  doing,  but  without 
any  special  value  as  a  real  work  of  art.  The  general  effect  of 
these  decorations  is  agreeable,  but  all  is  done  for  effect. 
There  is  no  such  honest,  serious  work  as  you  see  in  the 
Gothic  cathedrals,  or  even  in  the  Alhambra.  One  is  the 
expression  of  a  facile,  sprightly  race,  fond  of  the  sunshine, 
delighting  to  repeat  the  caprice  of  nature  in  the  curious  and 
quaint;  the  other  has  a  deep,  earnest  purpose.  This  is  an 
imagination  which  sees  its  gods  in  every  form  —  in  stones 
and  trees  and  beasts  and  creeping  things,  in  the  stars  above, 
in  the  snake  wriofSfline:  throusfh  the  hedg'es  —  the  other  sees 
only  one  God,  even  the  Lord  God  Jehovah,  who  made  the 
heavens  and  the  earth  and  will  come  to  judge  the  world  at 
the  last  day.  As  you  wander  through  the  courtyards  and 
chambers  of  Amber,    the  fancy  is  amused  by  the  charac- 


iSo  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

ter  of  all  that  surrounds  you.  There  is  no  luxury.  All 
these  Kings  wanted  was  air  and  sunshinCc  They  slept  on 
the  floor.  The  chambers  of  their  wives  were  little  more 
than  cells  built  in  stone.  Here  are  the  walls  that  surround- 
ed their  section  of  the  palace.  There  are  no  windows 
looking  into  the  outer  world,  only  a  thick  stone  wall 
pierced  with  holes  slanting  upward,  so  that  if  a  curious 
spouse  looked  out  she  would  see  nothing  lower  than  the 
stars.  Amber  is  an  immense  palace,  and  could  quite  ac- 
commodate a  rajah  with  a  court  of  a  thousand  attendants. 

There  were  some  beautiful  views  from  the  terrace.  The 
General  would  like  to  have  remained,  but  the  elephants  had 
been  down  to  the  water  to  lap  themselves  about,  and  were 
now  returning  refreshed  to  bear  us  back  to  Jeypore.  The 
visitors  had  only  given  themselves  a  day  for  the  town,  and 
had  to  return  the  call  of  the  Prince,  which  is  a  serious 
task  in  Eastern  etiquette. 

Mr.  Borie  was  much  exhausted  by  his  ride  and  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  and  was  prevailed  upon  to  make  the  descent  in 
a  chair,  as  Mrs.  Grant  had  done.  Returning  to  Jeypore 
the  same  day,  our  party  were  very  tired,  and  early  sought 
rest. 

The  following  day,  at  Jeypore,  the  General  visited  the 
school  of  arts  and  industry,  in  which  he  was  greatly  inter- 
ested, one  of  his  special  subjects  of  inquiry  being  the  indus- 
trial customs  and  resources  of  the  country.  This  school  is 
one  of  the  Prince's  favorite  schemes,  and  the  scholars  showed 
aptness  in  their  work.  Jeypore  excels  in  the  manvifacture 
of  enameled  jewelry;  some  of  the  specimens  seen  were 
exceedingly  beautiful  and  costly.  The  Mint  was  visited, 
and  here  the  workmen  were  seen  beating-  the  coin  and 
stamping  it. 

At  the  collection  of  tigers,  a  half  dozen  brutes  were 
caged,  each  of  whom  had  a  history.  There  were  man-eaters; 
one  enormous  creature  had  killed  twenty-five  men  before 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  l8l 

he  was  captured.  Having  passed  the  day  in  seeing  the 
sights,  the  party  returned  to  the  Residency,  and  found  a 
group  of  servants,  from  the  palace,  on  the  veranda,  each 
carrying  a  tray  haden  with  sweetmeats  and  nuts,  oranges 
and  fruit.  This  was  an  offering  from  the  Prince,  and  it 
was  necessary  that  the  General  should  touch  some  of  the 
fruit  and  taste  it,  and  say  how  much  he  was  indebted  to 
His  Highness  for  the  remembrance;  then  the  servants  re- 
turned to  the  palace. 

The  Maharajah  sent  word  that  he  would  receive  Gen- 
eral Grant  at  five.  The  Maharajah  is  a  pious  prince,  a  de- 
votee, and  almost  an  ascetic.  He  gives  seven  hours  a  day 
to  devotions.  He  partakes  only  of  one  meal.  When  he  is 
through  with  his  prayers  he  plays  billiards.  He  is  the  hus- 
band of  ten  wives.  His  tenth  wife  was  married  to  him  a 
few  weeks  ago.  The  court  gossip  is  that  he  did  not  want 
another  wife,  that  nine  were  enough;  but  in  polygamous 
countries  marriages  are  made  to  please  families,  to  consoli- 
date alliances,  to  win  friendships,  very  often  to  give  a  home 
to  the  widows  or  sisters  of  friends.  The  Maharajah  was 
under  some  duress  of  this  kind,  and  his  bride  was  brought 
home,  and  is  now  with  her  sister  brides  behind  the  stone 
walls,  killing  time  as  she  best  can,  while  her  lord  prays  and 
plays  billiards.  These  wives  live  in  cloistered  seclusion. 
They  are  guarded  by  eunuchs,  and  even  when  ill  are  not 
allowed  to  look  into  the  face  of  a  physician,  but  put  their 
hands  through  a  screen.  It  was  said  in  Jeypore  that  no  face 
of  a  Rajput  Princess  was  ever  seen  by  a  European. 

These  prejudices  are  respected  and  protected  by  the  Im- 
perial Government,  which  respects  and  protects  every  cus- 
tom in  India  so  long  as  the  States  behave  themselves  and 
pay  tribute.  In  their  seclusion  the  princesses  adorn  them- 
selves, see  the  Nautch  girls  dance,  and  read  romances. 
They  are  not  much  troubled  by  the  Maharajah.  That 
great  prince,  I  hear,  is  tired  of  everything  but  his  devotions 


lS2  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

and  his  billiards.  He  has  no  children,  and  is  not  supposed 
to  have  hopes  of  an  heir.  He  will,  as  is  the  custom  in  these 
high  families,  adopt  some  prince  of  an  auxiliary  branch. 

The  government  of  the  kingdom  is  in  the  hands  of  a 
council,  among  vv^hom  are  the  Prime  Minister  and  the  prin- 
cipal brahmin. 

General  Grant  drove  to  the  palace  at  four  o'clock,  and 
at  once  inspected  the  stables.  There  were  some  fine  horses, 
and  exhibitions  of  horsemanship  which  astonished  even  the 
General.  He  was  shown  the  astronomical  buildings  of  Jai 
Singh  n.,  which  were  on  a  large  scale  and  accurately  graded. 
He  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  palace,  and  had  a  fine  view  of 
Jeypore.  The  palace  itself  embraces  one-sixth  of  the  city, 
and  there  are  ten  thousand  people  within  its  walls  —  beg- 
gars, soldiers,  priests,  politicians,  all  manner  of  human 
beings  —  who  live  on  the  royal  bounty.  The  town  looked 
picturesque  and  cool  in  the  shadows  of  the  descending  sun. 

At  five  precisely  we  entered  the  courtyard  leading 
to  the  reception  hall.  The  Maharajah  came  slowly  down 
the  steps,  with  a  serious,  preoccupied  air,  not  as  an  old  man,, 
but  as  one  who  was  too  weary  with  a  day's  labors  to  make 
any  effort,  and  shook  hands  with  the  General  and  Mrs. 
Grant.  He  accompanied  the  General  to  a  seat  of  honor 
and  sat  down  at  his  side.  They  all  arranged  themselves 
in  the  chairs.  On  the  side  of  the  General  sat  the  mem- 
bers of  his  j)arty;  on  the  side  of  the  Maharajah  the  mem- 
bers of  his  Cabinet.  Dr.  Hendley  acted  as  interpreter. 
The  Prince  said  Jeypore  was  honored  in  seeing  the  face 
of  the  great  American  ruler,  whose  fame  had  reached 
Hindostan.  The  General  said  he  had  enjoyed  his  visit, 
that  he  was  pleased  and  surprised  with  the  prosperity  of 
the  people,  and  he  should  have  felt  he  had  lost  a  great 
deal  if  he  had  come  to  India  and  not  seen  Jeypore.  The 
Maharajah  expressed  regret  that  the  General  made  so 
short  a  stay.     The   General  answered    that    he  came   to 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  1S3 

India  late,  and  was  rather  pressed  for  time  from  the  fact 
that  he  wished  to  see  the  Viceroy  before  he  left  Calcutta, 
and  to  that  end  had  promised  to  be  in  Calcutta  on 
March   lo. 

His  Highness  then  made  a  gesture,  and  a  troop  of 
dancing  girls  came  into  the  court-yard.  One  of  the 
features  of  a  visit  to  Jeypore  is  what  is  called  the  Nautch. 
The  Nautch  is  a  sacred  affair,  danced  by  Hindoo  girls  of 
a  low  caste  in  the  presence  of  the  idols  in  the  palace 
temple.  A  group  of  girls  came  trooping  in,  under  the 
leadership  of  an  old  fellow  wdth  a  long  beard  and  a  hard 
expression  of  face,  who  might  have  been  the  original  of 
Dickens'  Fagin.  The  girls  wore  heavy  garments  em- 
broidered, the  skirts  composed  of  many  folds,  covered 
with  gold  braid.  They  had  ornaments  on  their  heads  and 
jewels  in  the  side  of  the  nose.  They  had  plain  faces,  and 
carried  out  the  theory  of  caste,  if  there  be  anything  in 
such  a  theory,  in  the  contrast  between  their  features  and  the 
delicate,  sharply-cut  lines  of  the  higher  class  Brahmins 
and  the  other  castes  who  surrounded  the  Prince,  The 
girls  forined  in  two  lines,  a  third  line  was  composed  of 
four  musicians,  who  performed  a  low,  growling  kind  of 
music  on  unearthly  instruments.  The  dance  had  no  value 
in  it,  either  as  an  expression  of  harmony,  grace  or  motion. 

The  Nautch  dance  is  meaningless.  It  is  not  even  im- 
proper. It  is  attended  by  no  excitement,  no  manifesta- 
tions of  religious  feeling.  A  group  of  course,  ill-formed 
women  stood  in  the  lines,  walked  and  twisted  about, 
breaking  now  and  then  into  a  chorus,  which  added  to  the 
din  of  the  instruments.  This  was  the  famous  Nautch 
dance,  which  they  were  to  see  in  Jeypore  with  amazement, 
and  to  remember  as  one  of  the  sights  of  India.  Either  as 
an  amusement  or  a  religious  ceremony  it   had   no  value. 

The  General  did  not  appreciate  the  dance,  though  he 
remained  during  its  performance.     Dr.  Hendley,  evidently 


184  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

thinking  that  the  dance  had  served  every  useful  purpose, 
said  a  w^ord  to  the  Prince,  who  made  a  sign,  the  dance 
stopped,  the  girls  vanished,  and  the  whole  party  retired  to 
the  hilliard  room. 

The  Maharajah  plays  billiards  when  he  is  not  at  prayers. 
He  was  anxious  to  have  a  game  with  the  General.  The 
General  played  in  an  indiscriminate,  promiscuous  manner, 
and  made  some  wonderful  shots  in  the  way  of  missing  balls 
he  intended  to  strike.  Mr.  Borie,  whose  interest  in  the 
General's  fortunes  extends  to  billiards,  began  to  deplore 
those  eccentric  experiments,  when  the  General  said  he  had 
not  played  billiards  for  thirty  years.  The  Maharajah  tried 
to  lose  the  game,  and  said  to  one  of  his  attendants  that  he 
was  anxious  to  show  the  General  that  delicate  mark  of  hos- 
pitality.    The  game  ended,  His  Highness  winning. 

Then  they  strolled  into  the  gardens,  and  looked  at  the 
palace  towers,  which  the  Prince  took  pleasure  in  showing 
to  the  General,  and  which  looked  airy  and  beautiful  in  the 
rosy  shadows  of  the  descending  sun.  There  were  beds  of 
flowers  and  trees,  and  the  coming  night,  which  comes  so 
swiftly  in  these  latitudes,  brought  a  cooling  breeze.  Then 
His  Highness  gave  each  a  photograph  of  his  royal  person, 
consecrated  with  his  royal  autograph,  which  he  wrote  on 
the  top  of  a  marble  railing.  Then  they  strolled  toward  the 
grand  hall  of  ceremony  to  take  leave.  Taking  leave  is  a 
solemn  act  in  India.  The  party  entered  the  spacious  hall, 
where  the  Prince  received  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Night 
had  come  so  rapidly,  that  servants  came  in  all  directions 
carrying  candles  and  torches  that  lit  up  the  gaudy  and  glit- 
tering hall.  An  attendant  cai"ried  a  tray  bearing  wreaths 
of  the  rose  and  jasmine.  The  Maharajah,  taking  two  of 
these  wreaths,  put  them  on  the  neck  of  the  General.  He 
did  the  same  to  Mrs.  Grant,  and  all  the  members  of  the 
party.  Then,  taking  a  string  of  gold  and  silken  cord,  he 
placed  that  on  Mrs.  Grant  as  a  special  honor.     The  Gen- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  185 

■eral,  who  was  instructed  by  the  English  Resident,  took 
four  wreaths  and  put  them  on  the  neck  of  the  Maharajah, 
w^ho  pressed  his  hands  and  bowed  his  thanks.  Another 
servant  came,  bearing  a  small  cup  of  gold  and  gems  con- 
taining ottar  of  roses.  The  Maharajah,  putting  some  of 
the  perfume  on  his  fingers,  transferred  it  to  Mrs.  Grant's 
handkerchief.  With  another  portion  he  passed  his  hands 
along  the  General's  breast  and  shoulders.  This  was  done  to 
each  of  the  party.  The  General  then  taking  the  perfume, 
passed  his  hands  over  the  Maharajah's  shoulders,  and  so 
concluding  the  ceremony,  which,  in  all  royal  interviews  in 
the  East,  is  supposed  to  mean  a  lasting  friendship.  Then 
the  Prince,  taking  General  Grant's  hand  in  his  own,  led 
him  from  the  hall,  across  the  garden  and  to  the  gateway  of 
his  palace,  holding  his  hand  all  the  time.  The  carriages 
were  waiting,  and  the  Prince  took  his  leave  saying  how 
much  he  was  honored  by  the  General's  visit.  The  cavalry 
escort  formed  in  line,  the  guard  presented  arms,  and  the 
visitors  drove  at  full  gallop  to  their  home.  And  so  ended 
one  of  the  most  interesting  and  eventful  days  in  the  Gen- 
eral's visit  to  India, 


CHAPTER  XV. 


STILL    IN    INDIA. 

General  Grant  and  party  visited  the  Maharajah  of  Burt- 
poor,  a  young  prince  about  thirty  years  of  age.  His  state 
is  small  —  its  area  1,974  miles,  with  a  population  of  743,710, 
and  a  revenue  of  $15,000,000.  The  day  was  hot,  and  the 
ride  had  been  through  a  low  country,  the  scenery  not  very 
attractive  at  the  best,  but  now  brown  and  arid  under  a 
steaming  sun.  Arrived  at  the  station,  all  Burtpoor  seemed 
to  be  awaiting  the  General's  appearance,  with  the  Maha- 
rajah at  the  head.  The  prince  was  accompanied  by  the 
British  officers  attached  to  his  court,  and,  advancing,  shook 
hands  with  the  General  and  welcomed  him  to  his  capital. 
He  wore  a  blazing  uniform,  covered  with  jewels.  He  had 
a  firm,  stern  face,  with  strong  features,  a  good  frame,  and 
unlike  his  brother  of  Jeypore,  who  gives  his  days  to  prayers 
and  his  evenings  to  billiards;  and,  although  he  has  the  Star 
of  India,  has  long  since  seen  the  vanity  of  human  glory, 
and  hates  power,  is  a  soldier  and  a  sportsman,  and  is  called 
a  firm  and  energetic  ruler.  From  the  station  the  party 
drove  to  the  palace,  through  a  town  whose  dismantled  walls 
speak  of  English  valor  and  English  shame,  past  bazaars, 
where  people  seemed  to  sell  nothing,  only  to  broil  in  the 
sunshine,  and  under  a  high  archway  into  a  courtyard,  and 
thence  to  the  palace.  There  was  nothing  special  about  the 
palace,  except  that  it  was  very  large  and  very  uncomfortable. 
The  prince  does  not  live  in  this  palace,  but  in  one  more 
suited  to  Oriental  tastes.     It  was  here  where  he  received 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  187 

the  Prince  of  Wales  on  the  occasion  of  his  visit  in  1876. 
There  was  a  breakfast  prepared,  which  the  prince  left  his 
guests  to  enjoy  in  company  with  their  English  friends.  In 
this  country  the  hospitality  of  the  highest  princes  never 
goes  so  far  as  to  ask  you  to  eat.  The  rules  of  caste  are  so 
marked  that  the  partaking  of  food  with  one  of  another 
caste,  and  especially  of  another  race,  would  be  defilement. 
The  host  at  the  close  of  the  breakfast  returned  in  state,  and 
there  was  the  ceremony  of  altar  and  pan,  and  cordial  inter- 
changes of  good  feeling  between  the  Maharajah  and  the 
General. 

The  General  and  party  visited  the  famous  ruins  of 
Futtehpoor  Sikva.  In  the  days  of  the  great  Moham- 
medan rulers  there  was  none  so  great  as  Akbar.  He 
founded  the  city  and  built  the  palace.  The  night  had  fallen 
before  the  visitors  arrived  at  their  destination,  so  that  they 
were  compelled  to  remain  over  night  in  the  ruins.  Mr. 
Lawrence,  the  British  Collector  at  Agra,  had  sent  forward 
bed  and  bedding,  and  all  that  was  necessary  to  make  the 
guests  comfortable.  After  a  night's  rest,  the  following 
morning  an  early  start  was  made  to  view  the  ruins.  To 
see  all  of  this  stupendous  ruin  would  include  a  ride  around 
a  circumference  of  seven  miles.  The  ruins  were  well  worth 
a  study.  The  General  examined  first  a  courtyard,  or  quad- 
rangle, four  hundred  and  thirty-three  feet  by  three  hundred 
and  sixty-six  feet.  On  one  side  of  this  is  the  mosque,  which 
is  a  noble  building,  suffering,  however,  from  the  over- 
shadowing grandeur  of  the  principal  gateway,  the  finest,  it 
is  said,  in  India,  looming  up  out  of  the  ruins  with  stately 
and  graceful  splendor,  but  dwarfing  the  other  monuments 
and  ruins.  This  was  meant  as  an  arch  of  triumph  to  the 
glory  of  the  Emperor,  "  King  of  Kings,"  "  Heaven  of  the 
Court,"  and  "  Shadow  of  God."  There  are  many  of  these 
inscriptions  in  Arabic,  a  translation  of  which  is  found  in 
Mr.   Keene's  handbook.      The    most    suggestive  is  this: 


l88  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

"Know  that  the  world  is  a  glass,  where  the  favor  has  come 
and  gone.  Take  as  thine  own  nothing  more  than  what 
thou  lookest  upon."  The  prevailing  aspect  of  the  archi- 
tecture was  Moslem,  with  traces  of  Hindoo  taste  and  deco- 
ration. The  mosque,  the  tomhs  and  the  gateway  are  all 
well  preserved.  At  one  of  the  mosques  were  a  number  of 
natives  in  prayer,  who  interrupted  their  devotions  long 
enouo^h  to  show  General  Grant  the  delicate  tracinsf  on  the 
walls  and  beg  a  rupee.  One  of  the  pleasures  of  wandering 
among  these  stupendous  ruins  is  to  wander  alone  and  take 
in  the  full  meaning  of  the  work  and  the  genius  of  the  men 
who  did  it.  The  guides  have  nothing  to  tell  you.  The 
ruins  to  them  are  partly  dwelling-places,  pretexts  for  beg- 
ging rupees. 

General  Grant  and  party  visited  Benares — the  sacred 
city  of  the  Hindoos  —  a  city  of  temples,  idols,  priests,  and 
worship.  The  General  found  so  much  to  interest  him  in 
India  that  it  was  a  source  of  regret  to  him  that  he  did  not 
come  earlier  in  the  season.  Every  hour  in  the  country  had 
been  full  of  interest,  and  the  hospitality  of  the  officials  and 
the  people  so  generous  and  profuse,  that  his  way  had  been 
especially  pleasant.  Travel  during  the  day  in  India  is  very 
severe.  Mrs.  Grant  stood  the  journey,  especially  the  se- 
verer phases  of  it,  marvellously,  and  justifies  the  reputation 
for  endurance  and  energy  which  she  won  on  the  Nile. 
The  General  is  a  severe  and  merciless  traveler,  who  never 
tires,  always  ready  for  an  excursion  or  an  experience,  as  in- 
different to  the  comforts  or  necessities  of  the  way  as  if  he 
had  been  on  the  tented  field.  Upon  arriving  at  the  station 
oi^  Benares,  Mr.  Daniels,  the  representative  of  the  Viceroy, 
met  the  General  and  party.  A  large  guard  of  honor  was 
in  attendance,  accompanied  by  the  leading  military  and 
civic  English  representatives  and  native  rajahs,  who  walked 
down  the  line  with  uncovered  heads. 

In  honor  of  the  General's  coming,  the  road  from  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  189 

station  to  the  Government  House  had  been  illuminated. 
Poles  had  been  stuck  in  the  ground  on  either  side  of  the 
road,  and  from  these  poles  lanterns  and  small  glass  ves- 
els  filled  with  oil  were  swinging.  So  as  they  drove,  before 
and  behind  was  an  avenue  of  light  that  recalled  the  Paris 
boulevards  as  seen  from  Montmartre.  It  was  a  long  drive 
to  the  house  of  the  Commissioner.  A  part  of  his  house 
Mr.  Daniels  gave  to  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  and  Mr.  Borie. 
For  the  others  there  were  tents  in  the  garden. 

Benares,  the  sacred  city  of  the  Hindoos,  sacred  also  to 
the  Buddhists,  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  world.  Macau- 
lay's  description,  so  familiar  to  all,  is  worth  reprinting,  from 
the  vividness  with  which  it  represents  it,  as  to-day.  "  Ben- 
ares," says  Alacaulay,  in  his  essay  on  Warren  Hastings, 
"  was  a  city  which,  in  wealth,  population,  dignity  and  sanc- 
tity, was  among  the  foremost  in  Asia.  It  was  commonly 
believed  that  half  a  million  human  beings  were  crowded 
into  that  labyrinth  of  lofty  alleys,  rich  with  shrines  and 
minarets,  and  balconies  and  carved  oriels,  to  which  the 
sacred  npes  clung  by  hundreds.  The  traveler  could  scarcely 
make  his  way  through  the  press  of  holy  mendicants  and 
not  less  holy  bulls.  The  broad  and  stately  flights  of  steps 
which  descended  from  these  swarming  haunts  to  the  bath- 
ing places  along  the  Ganges  were  worn  every  day  by  the 
footsteps  of  an  innumerable  multitude  of  worshipers. 
The  schools  and  temples  drew  crowds  of  pious  Hindoos 
from  every  province  where  the  Brahminical  faith  was 
known.  Hundreds  of  devotees  came  thither  every  month 
to  die,  for  it  was  believed  that  a  peculiarly  happy  fate 
awaited  the  man  who  should  pass  from  the  sacred  city 
into  the  sacred  river.  Nor  was  superstition  the  only  motive 
which  allured  strangers  to  that  great  metropolis.  Com- 
merce had  as  many  pilgrims  as  religion.  All  along  the 
shores  of  the  venerable  stream  lay  great  fleets  of  vessels 
laden  with  rich  merchandise.     From  the  looms  of  Benares 


190  GENERAL    V.    S.    GRANT  S 

went  forth  the  most  delicate  silks  that  adorned  the  halls  ol 
St.  James  and  Verseilles;  and  in  the  bazaars  the  muslins 
of  Bensral  and  the  sabres  of  Oude  were  minjjled  with  the 
jewels  of  Golconda  and  the  shawls  of  Cashmere."  Ben- 
ares to  one-half  the  human  race  —  to  the  millions  in  China 
who  profess  Buddhism  and  tlie  millions  in  India  who  wor- 
ship Brahma  —  is  as  saci'ed  as  Jerusalem  to  the  Christian 
or  Mecca  to  the  INIohainmedan.  Its  sfreatness  was  known 
in  the  days  of  Nineveh  and  Babylon,  when,  as  another 
writer  says,  "  Tyre  was  planting  her  colonies,  when  Athens 
was  gaining  in  strength,  before  Rome  became  known,  or 
Greece  had  contended  with  Persia,  or  Cyrus  had  added  to 
the  Persian  monarchy,  or  Nebuchadnezzar  had  captured 
Jerusalem."  The  name  of  Benares  excites  deep  emotionf 
in  tne  breast  of  every  pious  Kmaoo,  and  his  constant  prayer 
is,  "  Holy  Kasi !  Would  that  I  could  see  the  etei-nal  city 
favored  of  the  grods!  Would  that  I  mijrht  die  on  its  sacred 
soil!" 

Benares  is  a  city  of  priests-  Its  population  is  over  twa 
hundred  thousand;  of  this  numoer  twentj^-five  thousana 
are  Brahmins.  They  govern  the  city,  and  hold  its  temples, 
wells,  shrines  and  streams.  Pilgrims  are  constantly  arriv- 
ing; as  many  as  two  hundred  thousand  come  in  the  course 
of  the  year.  Not  long  since,  one  authority  counted  fourteen 
hundred  and  fifty-four  Hindoo  temj^les,  and  two  hundred 
and  seventy-two  mosques.  In  addition  to  the  temples, 
there  are  shrines  —  cavities  built  in  walls,  containing  the 
image  of  some  god  —  as  sacred  as  the  temples.  Pious 
rahjas  are  always  adding  to  the  temples  and  shrines.  The 
streets  are  so  narrow  that  only  in  the  widest  can  even  an 
elephant  make  his  way.  They  are  alleys  —  narrow  alleys, 
not  streets  —  and,  as  you  thread  your  way  through  them, 
you  feel  as  if  the  town  were  one  house,  the  chambers  only 
separated  by  narrow  passages.  Benares,  the  holy  cit}'  — 
holy  even  now  in  the  eyes  of  more  than  half  the  human 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I9I 

race — whose  glories,  religious  and  civic,  have  been  forgot- 
ten in  the  noise  and  glitter  of  oiu"  recent  civilization. 

The  priest  is  a  sacred  ruler.  He  is  the  first  in  caste; 
the  world  was  made  for  him,  and  other  men  depend  upon 
him.  If  he  is  anj^rv  and  curses,  his  curses  can  overturn 
thrones,  scatter  troops,  even  destroy  this  world  and  suinmon 
other  worlds  into  existence.  He  is  above  the  King  in  dig- 
nity. His  life  is  sacred,  and,  no  matter  the  enormity  of  the 
crime,  he  cannot  be  condemned  to  death.  The  Brahmins 
ai'e  the  stronsrest  social  and  relis^ious  force  in  Hindostan, 
Benares  is  their  city.  The  policy  which  founded  the  order 
•of  Jesuits  has  often  been  cited  as  a  masterpiece  of  govern- 
ment, of  combining  the  strongest  intellectual  force  toward 
missionary  enterprise.  But  the  order  of  Jesuits  is  a  society 
under  rules  and  discipline  only  bmcimg  its  members.  The 
Brahmins  not  only  govern  themselves  as  rigidly  as  the 
Jesuits,  and  hold  themselves  ready  to  go  as  far  in  the  serv- 
ice of  their  faith,  but  they  have  imjDosed  their  will  upon 
■every  other  class.  Men  of  the  world,  men  in  other  callings, 
use  the  name  of  Jesuit  as  a  term  of  reproach,  and  even 
Catholic  kings  have  been  known  to  banish  them  and  put 
them  outside  of  civil  law.  There  is  not  a  prince  in  Hindos- 
tan who  would  dare  to  put  a  straw  in  the  path  of  a  Brah- 
min. Brahminism  is  one  of  the  oldest  institutions  in  the' 
world,  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  developments  of 
human  intellect  and  discipline,  and  there  is  no  reason  to 
suppose  that  its  power  over  India  will  ever  pass  away. 

Here  is  the  sacred  river  Ganges.  No  office  is  so  sacred 
to  the  dead  as  to  burn  his  body  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges. 
Several  slabs  were  observed  near  the  burning  Ghat;  these 
'were  in  memory  of  widows  who  had  burned  themselves  on 
that  spot  in  honor  of  their  husbands,  according  to  the  old 
rite  of  suttee.  Benares  sits  on  the  sacred  river,  an  emblem 
of  the  strange  religion  which  has  made  it  a  holy  city,  and 
there  is  solemnity  in  the  thought  that  for  ages  she  has  kept 


193  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

her  place  on  the  Ganges;  that  for  ages  her  shrines  have  been 
holy  to  millions  of  men;  that  forages  the  wisest  and  purest 
and  best  of  the  Indian  race  have  wandered  as  pilgrims 
through  her  narrow  streets  and  plunged  themselves  as  peni- 
tents into  the  waters  to  wash  away  their  sins.  It  is  all  a 
dark  superstition,  but  let  us  honor  Benares  for  the  comfort 
she  has  given  to  so  many  millions  of  sinful,  sorrowing 
souls.  And  as  the  white  towers  and  steps  of  Benares,  glis- 
tening in  the  sunshine,  are  left  behind,  the  tourists  look 
back  upon  it  with  something  of  the  respect  and  affection 
that  belong  to  antiquity,  and  which  are  certainly  not 
unworthily  bestowed  upon  so  renowned,  so  sacred  and  so 
venerable  a  city. 

General  Grant  visited  Delhi.  Upon  his  arrival  there 
was  a  grand  reception  by  troops,  and  the  General  and  his 
wife  drove  to  Ludlow  Castle,  the  home  of  the  chief  officer 
Delhi  is  a  beautiful  city,  as  the  houses  are  built  for  air,  and 
not,  as  in  American  cities,  several  stories  high.  This  will 
account  for  the  great  size  of  Indian  cities  —  that  they  are  so 
many  miles  long  and  so  many  broad. 

There  are  few  cities  in  the  world  which  have  had  a 
more  varied  and  more  splendid  career  than  Delhi.  It  is 
the  Rome  of  India,  and  the  history  of  India  centres  around 
Delhi.  It  has  no  such  place  as  Benares  in  the  religion  of 
the  people,  but  to  the  Indians  it  is  what  Rome  in  the 
ancient  days  was  to  the  Roman  Empire.  One  of  its  au- 
thentic monuments  goes  back  to  the  fourth  century  before 
Christ.  Its  splendor  began  with  the  rise  of  the  Mogul 
empire,  and  the  splendor  of  the  Moguls  is  seen  in  what 
they  built,  and  the  severity  of  their  creed  in  what  they 
destroyed.  Outside  of  the  English  section,  nothing  but  the 
ruins  and  desolation  of  many  wars  and  dynasties. 

From  the  Cashmere  gate  to  the  Rutab,  a  ride  of  eleven 
miles,  your  road  is  through  monumental  ruins  —  tombs, 
temples,  mausoleums,  mosques,  in  all  directions.     The  hori- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I93 

zon  is  studded  with  minarets  and  domes,  all  abandoned, 
and  many  in  ruins. 

The  General  and  party  visited  the  palace  of  the  Grand 
Mogul;  saw  the  throne  of  Aurungzebe  —  the  peacock 
throne.  This  was  simply  a  mass  of  jewels  and  gold,  val- 
ued at  thirty  millions  of  dollars.  Mr.  Beresford,  in  his 
book  on  Delhi,  says  it  was  called  the  peacock  throne  from 
its  having  the  figures  of  two  peacocks  standing  behind  it, 
their  tails  expanded,  and  the  whole  so  inlaid  with  sapphires, 
rubies,  emeralds,  pearls  and  other  precious  stones  of  appro- 
priate colors,  as  to  represent  life.  The  throne  itself  was  six 
feet  long  by  four  feet  broad.  It  stood  on  six  massive  feet, 
which,  with  the  body,  were  of  solid  gold,  inlaid  with  rubies, 
emeralds  and  diamonds.  It  was  supported  by  a  canopy  of 
gold,  upheld  by  twelve  pillars,  all  richly  emblazoned  with 
costly  gems,  and  a  fringe  of  pearls  ornamented  the  borders 
of  the  canopy.    , 

A  visit  to  the  Kutab  tower  was  worthy  of  remem- 
brance. This  tower  ranks  among  the  wonders  of  India. 
It  is  two  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  high,  sloping  from 
the  base,  which  is  forty-seven  feet  in  diameter,  to  the  sum- 
mit, which  is  nine  feet.  It  is  composed  of  five  sections  or 
stories,  and  with  every  story  there  is  a  change  in  the  de- 
sign. The  lower  section  has  twentv-four  sides,  in  the  form 
of  convex  flutings,  alternately  semi-circular  and  rectangu* 
lar.  In  the  second  rection  they  are  circular,  the  third  angu 
lar,  the  fourth  a  plain  cylinder,  and  the  fifth  partly  fluted 
and  partly  plain.  At  each  basement  is  a  balcony.  On  the 
lower  sections  are  inscriptions  in  scroll  work,  reciting,  in 
Arabic  characters,  the  glory  of  God,  verses  from  the  Koran, 
and  the  name  and  achievements  of  the  conqueror  who  buii. 
the  tower.  It  is  believed  that,  when  really  complete,  with 
the  cupola,  it  must  have  been  twenty  feet  higher. 

Attended  by  an  officer  who  took  part  in  the  siege,  the 
General  visited  the  lines  held  by  the  English  and  the  Se 
13 


194  GEXERAL    U.    S.    (jRANT's 

poys  during  the  mutiny,  when  the  English  Empire  in  India 
depended  for  months  upon  the  valor  and  endurance  of  the 
small  army  which  invested  Delhi. 

On  February  28,  General  Grant  arrived  at  Calcutta,  The 
railroad  authorities,  not  having  any  intimation  of  the  Gen- 
eral's visit,  made  no  arrangements  for  his  reception  at  the 
railway  station.  Only  a  few  gentlemen  were  present.  A 
company  of  the  Madras  Fourteenth  Regiment,  with  band 
and  colors,  were  drawn  up  in  line  on  the  platform,  and  at 
the  bridge  was  posted  the  European  constabulary  of  the 
Calcutta  police,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Percy. 
The  gentlemen  on  the  platform  were  Captain  Muir,  Aide- 
de-Camp  to  His  Excellency  the  Viceroy;  Mr.  Lambert,  the 
Deputy  Commissioner  of  Police;  General  Litchfield,  the 
American  Consul;  Mr.  R.  Macallister,  Mr.  Frederick 
Coke,  Mr.  Manockjee  Rustomjee  and  son,  and  some  mas- 
ters of  American  ships  in  tiie  ri\'er.  When  the  trana  ar- 
rived, some  difficulty  was  experienced  in  finding  tne  car 
riage  the  General  was  m,  as  it  was  far  down  the  platform, 
where  the  company  of  soldiers  was  drawn  up.  The  Gen- 
eral, Mrs.  Grant  and  Colonel  Grant,  and  two  gentlemen 
belonging  to  his  staff,  then  stepped  out  of  a  first-class  car- 
riage and  were  received  by  the  gentlemen,  one  of  whom 
handed  to  the  General  a  letter  from  Nawab  Abdul  Gunny 
Meah,  of  Dacca,  invitmg  the  General  over  to  his  place- 
The  party  then  drove  to  Government  House,  in  two  car- 
riages of  the  Viceroy,  which  were  in  waiting  outside  the 
platform.  As  the  party  neared  Government  House,  there 
was  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns.  In  the  evening  the  Vice- 
roy entertained  the  General  and  his  party  at  a  dinner-party 
at  Government  House.  About  fifty  ladies  and  gentlemen 
were  honored  with  invitations  to  meet  them.  After  the 
toast  of  the  Queen-Empress  was  drank.  Lord  Lytton  rose, 
and  spoke  as  follows: 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen — I  sincerely  believe  that 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  I95 

there  is  no  toast  unconnected  with  our  own  country  and  its 
institutions  which  is  honored  with  greater  cordiality  by 
EngHshmen  of  all  classes,  and  in  all  parts  of  the  world, 
than  the  toast  I  am  now  about  to  jDropose  to  you  —  because, 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  we  English  cannot  look,  and  never 
do  look,  upon  America  as  a  foreign  country,  or  upon  the 
American  people  as  a  foreign  people.  They  are  flesh  of 
our  flesh  and  bone  of  our  bone.  It  is  true,  no  doubt,  that 
our  fathers  and  their  fathers  have  had  their  family  quarrels, 
over  which  they  have  shaken  hands  — for  quarrels  will  oc- 
casionally occur  in  the  best  regulated  families;  but  these 
are  quarrels  which  I  trust  that  neither  their  children  nor 
our  children  will  ever  have  occasion  to  renew,  for  they  have 
been  practically  settled  by  a  separation  of  political  partner- 
ship, prolific  in  substantial  benefits  to  the  best  interests  of 
mankind.  Meanwhile,  we  Englishmen  of  the  present  day 
all  regard  our  American  kinsfolk  as,  if  I  may  say  so,  the 
rising  generation,  and  the  most  go-ahead  representative  of 
that  good  old  sturdy  family  stock  which,  while  lovingly, 
loyally  and,  I  hope,  lastingly  honoring  and  keeping  hon- 
ored its  ancestral  roof-tree,  still  sends  forth  from  its  little 
island  home  in  the  northern  seas  the  hardy  offspring  of  a 
race  that  has  planted  and  is  spreading  in  every  quarter  of 
the  habitable  globe  the  language  in  which  Shakspeare 
wrote,  the  liberty  for  which  Washington  so  nobly  labored, 
the  social  principles  of  the  Cod^  of  Blackstone,  and  the 
ethical  principles  of  the  creed  of  Christianity. 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  the  toast  I  am  going  to 
propose  to  you  is  that  of  the  President  of  the  United  States 
of  America.  This  is  a  toast  to  which  I  am  sure  you  would, 
in  any  circumstances,  respond  with  cordiality.  But  I  am 
confident  that  in  the  circumstances  which  have  brousfht  us 
together  this  evening  your  cordiality  will  be  quickened  by 
the  presence  of  an  eminent  guest  who  has  twice  filled  with 
renown  the  high  ofiice  we  are  about  to  honor  in  the  per- 


196  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

son  of  its  present  incumbent.  That  office,  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen, is,  I  think,  the  highest  that  can  possibly  be  held  — 
the  highest  that  ever  has  been  filled  by  the  citizen  of  a  free 
country,  and  never  has  that  high  office  been  more  worthily 
won  or  more  worthily  filled  than  by  the  distinguished  sol- 
dier to  whose  sword  America  is  indebted  for  the  re-estab- 
lished Union  and  permanent  peace  of  those  great  sovereign 
States,  over  whose  united  destinies  he  has  twice  success- 
fully presided.  It  was  said  by  the  great  poet  of  our  own 
commonwealth  that  'peace  hath  her  victories  no  less  re- 
nowned than  war,'  and  with  the  victories  of  peace,  as  well 
as  those  of  war,  I  am  persuaded  that  the  name  of  General 
Grant  will  long  be  honorably  associated  by  a  double  re- 
nown. 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  It  is  neither  customary  nor 
proper  to  couple  the  name  of  any  private  individual, 
however  eminent  he  may  be,  with  toasts  proposed  in  honor 
of  the  ruling  power  of  a  sovereign  state.  I  am  not  going 
to  infringe  that  rule;  and,  as  regards  the  rules  of  hospi- 
tality, I  think  you  must  all  feel  that  of  hospitality  and  of 
sympathy  the  best  expression  is  in  deeds,  not  words.  I 
think,  therefore,  that  it  would  be  on  my  part  an  inhospita- 
ble deed  if  to  this  toast  I  added  any  words  which  would 
possibly  require  from  our  honored  guest  the  conventional 
formality  of  a  reply.  But,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  this  at 
least  let  me  say  before  T  .-it  down:  Genera)  Ulysses  Grant, 
like  his  classic  namesake,  has  seen  men  and  cities  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  world,  enlarging  the  genius  of  the  states- 
man and  the  soldier  by  the  experience  of  the  traveler.  Let 
us  hope  that  when  he  returns  to  that  great  empire  of  the 
West,  which  he  has  once  rescued  and  twice  ruled,  he  will 
at  least  take  with  him  a  kindly  recollection  of  his  brief  so- 
journ in  this  empire  of  the  East,  where  his  visit  will  long 
be  remembered  with  gratification  by  many  sincere  friends 
and  well  wishers.     Ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  have  now  to 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  I97 

request  that  you  will  fill  your  glasses  and  drink  with  all 
honor  to  our  last  toast  this  evening.  'The  President  of 
the  United  States  of  America.'  " 

General  Grant  replied,  briefly  returning  tiianks  for  the 
honor  tendered  him.  ^ 

After  a  continuous  round  of  enjoyment  and  thorough 
inspection  of  all  points  of  interest,  the  General  left  Calcutta 
by  steamer  for  a  visit  to  British  Burmah,  Arriving  at  the 
city  of  Rangoon,  General  Grant  and  party  were  saluted  by 
two  British  men-of-war.  They  had  their  yards  manned  in 
honor  of  the  General.  All  the  vessels  in  the  river  were 
gaily  dressed.  The  landing  was  covered  with  scarlet  cloth, 
and  the  American  and  Britisn  standards  were  blended. 
All  the  town  seemed  to  be  out.^  and  the  river  bank  was 
lined  with  the  multitude,  who  looked  on  in  their  passive 
Oriental  fashion  at  the  pageant.  As  soon  as  the  boat  came 
to  the  wharf,  Mr.  Aitcheson,  the  Commissioner,  came  on 
board,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Leishmann,  the  American  Vice- 
Consul,  and  bade  the  General  welcome  to  Burmah. 

On  landing,  the  General  was  presented  to  the  leading 
citizens  and  officials,  and  officers  of  the  men-of-war.  The 
guard  of  honor  presented  arms,  and  they  all  drove  away  to 
the  Government  House,  a  pretty,  commodious  bungalow  ia 
the  suburbs,  buried  among  trees.  Mr.  Aticheson  is  one  of 
the  most  distinguished  officers  in  the  Indian  service.  He 
was  for  some  time  Foreign  Secretary  to  Calcutta.  Burmah, 
however,  is  already  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  Brit- 
ish colonies  in  Asia,  and  this  importance  is  not  diminished 
by  the  critical  relations  between  British  Burmah  and  the 
court  of  the  King.  Consequently,  England  requires  the 
best  service  possible  in  Burmah,  and,  as  a  result  of  her 
policy  of  sending  her  wisest  men  to  the  most  useful  places, 
Mr.  Aitcheson  finds  himself  in  Rangoon. 

The  days  spent  in  Rangoon  were  pleasant;  the  town  is 
interesting.      The  streets  are   wide  and   rectangular,  like 


198  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

those  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  shade  trees  are  grateful. 
Over  the  city,  on  a  height,  which  you  can  see  from  afar,  is 
a  pagoda,  one  of  the  most  famous  in  Asia.  It  is  covered 
with  gilt,  and  in  the  evening,  when  we  first  raw  it,  the  sun's 
rays  made  it  dazzling.  This  is  the  land  of  Buddha  and 
that  remarkable  religion  called  Buddhism. 

Unlike  Brahminism,  there  is  no  institution  of  caste,  no 
priestly  caste.  The  priests  are  taken  from  any  rank  in  life, 
never  marry,  and  they  deny  themselves  all  the  pleasures  of 
the  sense,  live  a  monastic  life,  dress  in  yellow  gowns,  shave 
their  heads  and  beards,  and  walk  barefooted.  The  priests 
go  in  procession.  They  chant  hymns  and  prayers,  and  burn 
incense.  They  carr}'^  strings  of  beads  like  the  rosary,  which 
they  count  and  fumble  as  the  say  their  prayers.  There  is 
no  single,  solemn  ceremony  like  the  sacrifice  of  the  ma^s. 
Priests  and  people  kneel  before  the  images  surrounded  by 
blazing  wax  lights,  the  air  heavy  with  incense.  They  pray 
together,  the  priests  only  known  by  the  yellow  gowns. 
They  pray  kneeling  with  clasped,  uplifted  hands.  Some- 
times they  hold  in  their  hands  a  rose,  or  a  morsel  of  rice,  or 
a  fragment  of  bread,  as  an  offering.  During  their  prayers, 
they  frequently  bend  their  bodies  so  that  the  face  touches 
the  ground.  There  are  convents  for  women.  The  tem- 
ples are  places  of  rest  and  refuge.  Hither  come  the  unfor- 
tunate, the  poor,  the  needy,  the  halt  and  blind,  the  belated 
traveler.  All  are  received,  and  all  are  given  food  and 
alms. 

Rangoon  is  not  only  interesting  from  a  religious  sense, 
but  it  one  of  the  largest  commercial  centers  of  the  British 
colonies,  and  General  Grant  found  no  part  of  his  visit  more 
interesting,  or  more  worthy  of  his  attention,  than  the  devel- 
opment of  the  commerce  of  Rangoon  with  the  United 
States.  American  merchandise  now  goes  to  Burmah  in 
English  ships,  and  has  to  pay  an  English  tax  before  it 
can  enter  this  market.     With  a  little  effort  on  the  part  of 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  1 99 

the  merchants  of  the  United  States,  a  large  market  would 
be  found  for  "  Yankee  notions,"  petroleum  and  ice ;  for,  if 
proper  houses  were  built  for  storing  ice,  it  could  be  made  a 
steady  and  profitable  trade.  Ice  is  now  made  by  machinery, 
but  it  is  poor,  costly  and  unsatisfactory,  and  the  machinery 
constantly  out  of  order. 

A  trade  based  on  those  articles,  established  in  Rangoon, 
would  supjDly  Burmah,  permeate  Upper  Burmah,  Siam  and 
China,  and  make  its  w"av  into  the  islands  and  settlements. 

No  country  in  the  East  is  more  worthy  of  the  attention 
of  our  merchants  than  Burmah;  the  harvest  is  ripe,  and 
whoever  comes  in  will  reap  a  hundred  fold. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


GENERAL   GRANT   IN   SIAM. 

General  Grant,  on  landing  at  Singapore,  was  landed 
an  autograph  letter  by  Major  Struder  —  a  letter  enclosed 
in  an  envelope  of  blue  satin,  from  the  King  of  Siain;  the 
letter  read  as  follows: 

The  Grand  Palace,  Bangkok,         ) 
4th  February,  1S79.  ) 

j\Iy  Dear  Sir:  Having  heard  from  my  Minister 
for  P''oreign  Affairs,  on  the  authority  of  the  United  States 
Consul,  that  you  are  expected  in  Singapore  en  your  way 
to  Bangkok,  I  beg  to  express  the  pleasure  I  shall  have 
in  making  your  acquaintance.  Possibly  you  may  arrive 
in  Bangkok  during  my  absence  at  my  country  residence. 
Bang  Pa  In;  in  which  case  a  steamer  will  be  placed  at 
your  disposal  to  bring  3^ou  to  me.  On  arrival  I  beg 
you  to  communicate  with  His  Excellency,  my  Minister 
for  Foreign  Affairs,  who  will  arrange  for  your  reception 
and  entertainment. 

Yours  very  truly, 

Chulahlongkorn,  R.  S. 

To  General  Grant,  late  President  of  the   Utiited  States. 

The  letter  that  the  King  had  taken  the  trouble  to  send 
all  the  way  to  Singapore,  and  the  desire  of  General  Grant 
to  see  all  that  was  to  be  seen,  decided  him  in  accepting 
this  flattering  invitation,  and  visit  Siam.  So  the  General 
and  party  prepared  at  once  for  Siam.  A  heavy  rain 
swept  over  Singapore  as  they  embarked  on  the  small 
steamer  Kang   See,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  April. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  20I 

The  run  to  Bangkok  is  set  down  at  four  days,  and 
sometimes  there  are  severe  storms  in  the  Gulf  of  Siam; 
but  fortune  was  with  them  in  this,  as  it  had,  indeed, 
been  with  them,  so  far  as  weather  at  sea  is  concerned,  ever 
since  they  left  Marseilles.  The  evening  of  their  sailing 
some  one  happened  to  remember  was  the  anniversary  of 
the  surrender  of  Lee  —  fourteen  years  ago  to-day  —  and 
the  hero  of  the  surrender  was  sitting  on  the  deck  of  a 
small  steamer  smoking  and  looking  at  the  clouds,  and 
gravelv  arguing  Mr.  Borie  out  of  a  purpose  which  some 
one  has  wickedly  charged  him  with  entertaining — the 
purpose  of  visiting  Australia  and  New  Zealand  and  New 
Guinea,  and  spending  the  summer  and  winter  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  of  April,  the  little  steamer 
in  putting  into  Bangkok  lost  her  reckoning  and  could  not 
pass  the  inner  bar.  About  ten  o'clock  the  royal  yacht 
anchored  within  a  cable's  length  —  a  long,  stately  craft, 
with  the  American  colors  flying  at  the  fore,  and  the  royal 
colors  at  the  main.  A  boat  put  off  at  once,  conveying 
Mr.  Sickles,  our  Consul,  the  son  of  the  Foreign  Alinister, 
representing  the  Siamese  government,  and  an  aid  of  the 
King.  Mr.  Sickles  presented  the  Siamese  officials  to  the 
General,  and  the  King's  aid  handed  him  the  following 
letter,  enclosed  in  an  envelope  of  yellow  satin: — 

The  Grand  Palace,  Bangkok,         ) 

April  II,  1S79.  ) 

Sir:  I  have  very  great  pleasure  in  welcoming  you  to 
Siam.  It  is,  I  am  informed,  your  pleasure  that  your  recep- 
tion should  be  a  private  one;  but  you  must  permit  me  to 
show,  as  far  as  I  can,  the  high  esteem  in  which  I  hold  the 
most  eminent  citizen  of  that  great  nation  which  has  been 
so  friendly  to  Siam,  and  so  kind  and  just  in  all  its  inter- 
course with  the  nations  of  the  far  East. 

That  you  may  be  near  me  during  your  stay,  I  have 
commanded  my  brother.  His  Royal  Highness  the  Celestial 
Prince  Bhanurangsi  Swangwongse,  to  prepare  rooms  for 


202  GENERAL    U.    S.    GUANT's 


you  and  your  party  in  the  Saranrom  Palace,  close  to  my 
palace,  and  I  most  cordially  invite  you,  Mrs.  Grant  and 
your  party  at  once  to  take  up  your  residence  there,  and  my 
brother  will  represent  me  as  your  host. 

Your  friend, 

Chulahlongkorn,  R.  S. 
His  Excellency  General  Grant,  late  President  of  the  United  States. 

At  four  o'clock  the  General  embarked  on  a  royal  gon- 
dola, and  was  slowly  pulled  to  the  shore.  The  guard  pre- 
sented arms,  the  cavalry  escort  wheeled  into  line,  the  band 
played  "Hail  Columbia,"  On  ascending  the  stairs,  Mr. 
Alabaster,  the  royal  interpreter.  Captain  Busli,  an  English 
otficer  commanding  the  Siamese  navy,  and  a  brilliant 
retinue,  were  in  waiting.  The  Foreign  Minister  advanced 
and  welcomed  the  General  to  Siam,  and  presented  him  to 
the  other  members  of  the  suite.  Then  entering  carriages, 
the  General  and  party  were  driven  to  the  palace  of  Hwang 
Saranrom,  the  home  of  His  Royal  Highness  the  Celestial 
Prince  Bhanurangsi  Swangwongse.  As  they  drove  past 
the  barracks  the  artillery  were  drawn  up  in  battery,  and  the 
cannon  rolled  out  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns.  On  reaching 
the  palace  a  guard  was  drawn  up,  and  another  band  played 
the  American  national  air.  At  the  gate  of  the  palace,  Phra 
Sri  Dhammason,  of  the  foreign  office,  met  the  General  and 
escorted  him  to  the  door  of  the  palace.  Here  he  was  met 
by  his  Excellency  Phya  Bashakarawangse,  the  King's  pri- 
vate secretary,  and  a  nobleman  of  rank  corresponding  to 
that  of  an  English  earl.  At  the  head  of  the  marble  steps 
was  His  Royal  Highness  the  Celestial  Prince,  wearing  the 
decorations  of  the  Siamese  orders  of  nobilit}'^,  surrounded 
by  other  princes  of  a  lesser  rank  and  the  members  of  his 
household.  Advancing,  he  shook  hands  with  the  General, 
and,  offering  his  arm  to  Mrs.  Grant,  led  the  party  to  the 
grand  audience  chamber.  Here  all  the  party  were  presented 
to  the  Prince,  and  there  was  a  short  conversation.  The 
Celestial  Prince  is  a  young  man  about  twenty,  with  a  clear, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  2O3 

expressive  face,  who  speaks  English  fairly  well,  but,  during 
the  interview,  spoke  Siamese,  through  Mr.  Alabaster,  who 
acted  as  interpreter.  The  Prince  lamented  the  weather, 
which  was  untimely  and  severe.  However,  it  would  be  a 
blessing  to  the  country  and  the  people,  and  His  Royal 
Highness  added  a  compliment  that  was  Oriental  in  its 
delicacy  when  he  said  that  the  blessing  of  the  rain  was  a 
blessing  which  General  Grant  had  brought  with  him  to 
Siam.  The  Prince  then  said  that  his  palace  was  the  Gen- 
eral's home,  and  that  he  had  been  commanded  by  the  King, 
his  brother,  to  say  that  anything  in  the  Kingdom  that  would 
contribute  to  the  happiness,  comfort  or  honor  of  General 
Grant,  was  at  his  disposal.  The  Prince  entered  into  con- 
versation with  Mrs.  Grant  and  the  members  of  the  Gen- 
eral's party.  The  General  expressed  himself  delighted 
with  the  cordiality  of  his  welcome,  and  said  he  had  been 
anxious  to  see  Siam,  and  would  have  regretted  his  inability 
to  do  so.  The  Prince  offered  his  arm  to  Mrs.  Grant,  and 
escorted  her  and  the  General  to  their  apartments,  while  the 
members  of  his  suite  assigned  the  remainder  of  the  party 
to  the  quarters  they  were  to  occupy  while  they  lived  in  the 
capital  of  Siam. 

The  evening  was  passed  quietly,  the  General  and  party 
dining  quietly  with  the  Celestial  Prince.  The  programme 
arranged  by  the  King  for  the  entertainment  of  his  guests 
was  submitted  to  General  Grant,  who  regretted  his  inability 
to  follow  the  whole  of  it.  Not  being  on  his  own  ship  (the 
Richmond),  which  would  have  awaited  his  convenience, 
the  General  was  compelled  to  return  to  Singapore  on  the 
ordinary  mail  steamer,  which,  leaving  on  Friday,  only  left 
him  five  days  for  Bangkok.  So  one  or  two  dinners  were 
eliminated,  the  visits  to  the  temples  and  elephants  massed 
into  one  day,  and  the  run  up  the  river  to  Ayuthia,  the  old 
capital  of  Siam,  added. 

On  the  morning  after  the  General's  arrival,  a  visit  was 


204  GENERAL    U.    S,    GRANT's 

made  to  the  ex-Regent.  This  aged  statesman  is  one  of  the 
leading  men  in  Siam,  the  first  nobleman  in  the  realm  in 
influence  and  authority.  He  was  the  intimate  friend  and 
counsellor  of  the  late  King.  He  governed  the  Kingdom 
during  the  minority  of  the  present  sovereign.  It  was 
through  his  influence  that  the  accession  of  His  Majestv 
was  secured  without  question  or  mutiny.  He  is  now  the 
chief  of  the  Council  of  State,  and  governs  several  prov- 
inces of  Siam  with  the  power  of  life  and  death.  His 
voice  in  council  is  potent,  partly  because  of  his  rank  and 
experience,  and  partly  because  of  his  old  age,  which  is 
always  respected  in  Siam.  Their  journey  to  the  Regent's 
was  in  -boats  in  Venetian  fashion,  and,  after  a  half-hour's 
pulling  down  one  canal  and  up  another,  and  across  the  river 
to  a  third  canal,  and  up  that  to  a  fourth,  they  came  to  a 
large  and  roomy  palace  shaded  with  trees.  Orders  had  been 
given  by  the  King  that  the  canals  and  river  should  be  kept 
free  from  trading  craft  and  other  vessels  at  the  h®urs  set 
down  in  the  programme  for  the  oflicial  visits.  As  a  con- 
sequence, whenever  they  took  to  their  boats  they  pulled 
along  at  a  rapid  pace  with  no  chance  of  collision. 

As  the  boat  pulled  up  to  the  foot  of  the  palace,  the  ex- 
Regent,  his  breast  beaiing  many  orders,  was  waiting  to 
receive  the  General.  He  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Chand- 
ler, an  American  gentleman  who  has  spent  many  years  In 
Siam,  and  knows  the  language  joerfectly.  The  ex-Regent 
is  a  small,  spare  man,  with  a  clean-cut,  well  shaped  head,, 
arid  a  face  reminding  you,  in  its  outliilps  and  the  general  set 
of  the  countenance,  of  the  late  M.  Thiers.  It  lacked  the 
vivacity  which  was  the  characteristic  of  M.  Thiers,  and 
was  a  grave  and  serious  face.  He  advanced,  shook  hands 
with  the  General,  and,  taking  his  hand,  led  him  up 
stairs  to  the  audience  room  of  the  palace.  A  guard  of 
honor  presented  arms,  the  band  played.  The  Regent  led 
us  into  his  audience  hall,  and,  placing  General  Grant  on  his 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  205 

risrht,  we  all  ransred  ourselves  about  him  on  chairs.  An 
audience  with  an  Eastern  Prince  is  a  serious  and  a  solemn 
matter.  The  Siamese  is  a  grave  person.  He  shows  you 
honor  by  speaking  slowly,  saying  little,  and  making  pauses 
between  his  speeches.  After  you  take  your  seat,  servants 
begin  to  float  around.  They  bring  you  tea  in  small  china 
cups  —  tea  of  a  delicate  and  pure  flavor,  and  unlike  our  own 
attempts  in  that  direction.  They  bring  you  cigars,  and  in 
the  tobacco  way  we  noted  a  cigarette  with  a  leaf  made  out 
of  the  banana  plant,  which  felt  like  vehet  between  the  lips, 
and  is  an  improvement  in  the  tobacco  way  which  even  the 
ripe  culture  of  America  on  the  tobacco  question  could  with 
advantage  accept.  In  Siam  you  can  smoke  in  every  place, 
and  before  every  presence,  except  in  the  presence  of  the 
King. 

The  Regent,  after  some  meditation,  spoke  of  the  great 
pleasure  it  had  given  him  to  meet  with  General  Grant  in 
Siam.  He  had  long  known  and  valued  the  friendship  of  the 
United  States,  and  he  was  sensible  of  the  good  that  had 
been  done  to  Siam  by  the  counsel  and  the  enterprise  of 
the  Americans  who  had  lived  there. 

The  General  thanked  the  Regent,  and  was  glad  to 
know  that  his  country  was  so  much  esteemed  in  the  East. 
There  was  a  pause  and  a  cup  of  the  enticing  tea  and  some 
remarks  on  the  weather.  The  General  expressed  a  desire 
lo  know  whether  the  tniusual  rain  would  affect  the  crops 
throughout  the  country.  Tne  K.egenr  saia  mere  was  no 
such  apprehension,  and  there  was  another  pause,  while  the 
velvet-coated  cigarettes  and  cigars  passed  into  general  c.  'cu- 
lation.  The  General  spoke  of  the  value  to  Siam  and  to 
all  countries  in  the  East  of  the  widest  commercial  inter- 
course with  nations  of  the  outer  world,  and  that,  from  all 
he  could  learn  from  the  Siamese  and  the  character  of  their 
resources,  any  extension  of  relations  with  other  nations 
would  be  a  gain  to  them.     His   Highness  listened  to  this 


206  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

speech,  as  Mr.  Chandler  translated  it  in  a  slow  and  delib- 
erate way,  standing  in  front  of  the  Regent,  and  intoning  it 
almost  as  though  it  were  a  lesson  from  the  morning  service. 
Then  there  was  another  pause ;  then  the  Regent  responded : 
Siam,  he  said,  was  a  peculiar  country.  It  was  away 
from  sympathy  and  communion  with  the  greater  nations. 
It  was  not  in  one  of  the  great  highways  of  commerce.  Its 
people  were  not  warlike  nor  aggressive.  It  had  no  desire 
to  share  in  the  strifes  and  wars  of  other  nations.  It  existed 
by  the  friendship  of  the  great  powers.  His  policy  had 
always  been  to  cultivate  that  friendship,  to  do  nothing  to 
offend  any  foreign  power,  to  avoid  controversy  or  pretexts 
for  intervention  by  making  every  concession. 

All  this  was  spoken  slowly,  deliberately,  as  if  every 
sentence  was  weighed,  the  old  Tvlinister  speaking  slowly, 
like  one  in  meditation.  His  deliberate  speech  seemed  to 
have  imusual  significance,  and  made  a  deep  impression 
upon  his  visitors  —  the  impression  that  he  who  spoke  wat 
one  in  authority  and  a  starcsman.  After  further  talk,  tnc 
Regent  addressed  himself  to  Mr.  Borie,  and  asked  him  his 
age.  Mr.  Borie  answered  that  he  was  sixty-nine.  "  I  am 
seventy-two,"  said  the  Regent:  "but  you  look  much 
older."  It  is  a  custom  in  Siamese,  when  you  wish  pay  a 
compliment  to  an  elderly  person,  to  tell  him  how  old  he 
looks,  to  compliment  him  on  his  gray  hairs  and  the  lines  in 
his  brow.  In  speaking  with  Mr.  Borie,  the  Regent  became 
almost  playful.  "  You  must  not  have  the  trouble  of  a  navy 
in  another  war."  Mr.  Borie  expressed  his  horror  of  war, 
and  added  that  America  had  had  enough  of  it.  "  At  our 
time  of  life,"  said  the  Regent,  putting  his  hand  on  Mr. 
Borie's  shoulder  in  a  half  playful,  half  affectionate  manner, 
"  we  need  repose,  and  that  our  lives  should  be  made  smooth 
and  free  from  care,  and  we  should  not  be  burdened  with 
authority  or  grave  responsibilities.  That  belongs  to  the 
others.     I  hope  you  will  be   spared    any    cares."      This 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  207 

practically  closed  the  interview,  and  the  Regent,  taking  the 
iiand  of  the  General  in  his  own,  in  Oriental  fashion,  led 
him  down-stairs  and  across  the  entrance-way  to  the  boat, 
the  troops  saluting  and  the  band  playing.  Then  he  took  a 
cordial  farewell  of  Mr.  Borie,  telling  him  he  was  a  brave 
man  to  venture  around  the  world  with  the  burden  of  so 
many  years  upon  him. 

The  King  of  Siam  issued  the  following  order  for  the 
reception  and  entertainment  of  General  Grant,  which  was 
faithfully  carried  out: 

"  Programme  for  the  reception  and  entertainment  of  General  U.  S. 

Grant,  ex-President  of  the  United  States  of  America,  subject  to 

such  modifications  as  he  may  deem  expedient: 
"First  Day.  —  On  the  arrival  of  the  mail  steamer  Kong 
See,  conveying  General  Grant  and  party,  at  Paknam,  a 
deputation,  consisting  of  Phra  Bairaybakya  Bhakdi,  Phra 
Sri  Sombat  and  Luang  Salayut  Witikan,  Captain  of  the 
Royal  Body  Guard,  will  proceed  on  board  the  steam  yacht 
Rising  Sun  to  the  steamer  Kong  See.  On  going  on  board, 
they  will  welcome  General  Grant  in  the  name  of  His 
Majest}',  and,  on  presenting  His  jMajesty's  best  wishes  to 
General  Grant  and  party,  will  invite  them  on  board  the 
Rising  Sun  and  convey  them  up  to  Bangkok.  On  their 
arrival  at  Bangkok  the  steam  yacht  will  anchor  off  the  In- 
ternational Court  House.  Officers  of  the  Foreign  Depart- 
ment will  then  proceed  to  the  steam  yacht  in  house  boats, 
with  paddles,  one  of  eight  and  one  of  seven  fathoms  in 
length,  to  invite  and  convey  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant 
and  party  to  the  landing  at  the  International  Court  House. 
There  will  be  a  company,  consisting  of  one  hundred  sol- 
diers, with  a  military  band,  at  the  landing,  as  a  guard  of 
honor.  Phya  Pihasbarawongree,  Private  Secretary  to  His 
Majesty,  Phra  Bpaksa  Nanaprates  Kich,  Judge  of  the  In- 
ternational Court,  with  officers  of  the  Royal  Horse  Guard 
and  officers  of  the  Foreign  Department,  will  be  in  waiting 


2oS  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

at  the  landing  to  invite  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and 
party  to  take  carriages  and  proceed  to  the  Grand  Saronrom 
Palace.  A  guard  of  honor  will  be  drawn  up  in  front  of 
the  palace,  consisting  of  twenty  soldiers  and  a  military  band 
for  the  occasion.  Phra  Sudham  Maitre  and  Phra  Sri 
DIiAmasan  will  be  in  waiting  at  the  door  of  the  palace  to 
receive  General  Grant  and  party.  His  Royal  Highness 
Somdech  Chowfa  Bhanurangse  Sawangwongo,  and  His 
Excellency  Chow  Phya  Bhann  Wongse  Maha  Cosa  Dhi- 
poti,  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  will  be  in  waiting  in  the 
upper  porch  to  welcome  them  to  the  palace.  General 
Grant  and  party  having  gone  into  the  palace,  a  salute  of 
twenty-one  guns  will  be  fired.  In  case  the  arrival  occurs 
in  the  night,  the  salute  will  be  deferred  until  the  morning. 

"Second  Day At  ten  o'clock  a.  m.  the  officers  will 

invite  General  Grant  to  visit  His  Highness  Somdech  Chow 
Phya  Boom  Maha  Suramngse,  the  ex-Regent,  and  mem- 
bers of  the  Senabodi,  and  will  be  conveyed  in  carriages  to 
the  landing  of  the  International  Court,  then  in  boats.  They 
will  return  by  the  same  route.  At  four  o'clock  p.  m.  the 
officers  will  invite  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and  party 
to  an  audience  with  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Siam,  in  the 
royal  palace.  The  aud-ence  will  be  held  in  the  grand 
audience  hall,  Boromraj  Satet  Maholan.  After  the  royal 
audience  they  will  be  conveyed  in  carriages  to  an  audience 
with  His  Majesty  Krow  Pbrarajawnny  Pawara  Sthan 
Mongal,  second  King.  At  nine  o'clock  Po  M.  His  Royal 
Hiohness  Somdech  Chowfa  Bhanuransrse  Sawansrwongro 
will  hold  a  reception  in  honor  of  General  Grant  at  the  Pal- 
ace Saronrom, 

"Third  Day.  —  On  the  morning  of  this  day  His  Maj- 
esty the  King  of  Siam  will  return  the  visit  of  General 
Grant  at  the  Palace  Saronrom.  At  four  p.  m.  the  officers 
will  invite  General  Grant  and  party  to  pay  a  visit  to  His 
Royal  Highness  Somdech  Phra  Chow  Boronwongee  Ter 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


209 


Chowfa  Maha  Mala  Krom  Phra  Bamrap  Parapax,  and 
will  be  conveyed  In  carnages.  At  eleven  o'clock  p.  m. 
General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and  party  will  be  entertained 
at  a  royal  banquet  in  the  royal  palace,  Boromraj  Satet 
Maholan,  and  will  be  conveyed  in  carriages. 

"Fourth  Day.  —  At  four  o'clock  p.  m.  the  officers 
will  invite  General  Grant  and  party  to  pay  a  visit  to  His 
Royal  Highness  Somdech  Chowfa  Chaturomasami  Krom- 
duang  Chakrapatdipong.  After  which  they  will  take  a 
look  at  the  Monastery  Arunrayweram- Wat-Chung.  At 
seven  o'clock  General  Grant  and  party  will  be  entertained 
at  dinner  at  the  official  residence  of  His  Excellency  the 
Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  and  will  be  conveyed  In  car- 
riasres  and  in  boats. 

"  Fifth  Day. — At  three  o'clock  p.  m.  the  officers  will 
invite  General  Grant  and  party  to  the  Monastery  Phra 
Budhoatnesatan  and  the  Monastery  Phrasee  Ratnesasa- 
dahram,  also  the  museum  at  the  royal  palace.  They  will 
then  be  Invited  to  a  private  audience  with  His  Majesty  the 
King,  in  the  royal  palace.  At  seven  o'clock  p.  m.  Gen- 
eral Grant  and  party  will  be  entertained  at  a  dinner  party 
at  the  official  residence  of  His  Highness  Somdech  Chow 
Phya  Borom  Maha  Sri  Suramngse,  the  ex-Regent. 

"  Sixth  Day.  —  At  three  o'clock  p.  m.  officers  will  In- 
vite General  Grant  and  party  to  visit  the  temple  Satatteph 
Tarnm  and  the  temple  Phra  Chattupun  Vevnon  Nlank- 
ahram,  and  from  thence  will  go  Into  the  Roj^al  Palace  to 
see  the  royal  white  elephants.  After  that  he  will  proceed 
to  the  palace  of  His  Royal  Highness  Somdech  Chowfa 
Maha  Mala  Krom  Phra  Bamap  Parapax  to  see  the  state 
elephants  and  the  elephants  of  war.  At  eight  o'clock  p.  m. 
His  Royal  Highness  Somdech  Chowfa  Chaturong  Rasami 
Krom  Luang  Chakrapatdlpon  will  entertain  General  Grant 
and  party  with  a  ball  at  the  old  royal  palace. 

"Seventh  Day.  —  At  nine  o'clock  a.  m.  the  officers 
14 


2IO  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANTS 

will  invite  General  Grant  and  party  to  embark  on  board 
the  royal  yacht  Vesatri,  to  take  an  excursion,  to  view  the 
scenery  on  the  River  Chow  Phya.  General  Grant  and 
party  will  be  conveyed  in  carriages  to  the  landing,  and 
thence  embark  on  board  the  Vesatri,  and  will  return  in  the 
same  manner.  At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  officers 
will  invite  General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant  and  party  to  a  royal 
audience  with  His  Majesty  at  the  royal  palace." 

In  Siam  there  is  a  second  King,  or  as  occupying  a  posi- 
tion similar  to  that  of  the  Vice-President  of  the  United 
States. 

In  Siam  the  second  King  is  a  person  and  an  authority, 
entitled  to  royal  honors,  living  in  a  palace,  with  troops,  a 
court,  a  harem  and  a  Foreign  Minister.  He  has  an  income 
from  the  State  of  $300,000  a  year.  Of  authority  he  has 
none  beyond  the  management  of  his  household  and  the 
command  of  troops  in  certain  of  the  provinces. 

The  second  King,  therefore,  is  a  political  influence  in 
Siam  —  great,  because  behind  him  is  the  suj^posed  power 
of  England.  Take  that  power  away,  and  His  Majesty 
w^ould  be  ranked  among  the  nobles,  allowed  the  position 
of  a  duke,  given  his  place  after  the  royal  family,  and  the 
pi-esent  office  would  be  eliminated  altogether  from  the 
government  of  Siam.  It  certainly  seems  to  be  an  expen- 
sive and  an  almost  useless  function,  one  that  might  readilj 
1)6  absorbed  into  '.ha  royRl  office  v/ith  »  prain  to  thefreasuiT 
aiiCi  ii-j  1U33  10  tiic  otrac.  i  nc  pnnce  wno  noias  tne  posi- 
tion is  in  his  fortieth  year  and  is  a  gentleman  of  intelligence. 

His  Majesty  the  first  King  of  Siam,  and  absolute  sover- 
eign, is  named  Chulahlongkorn.  This,  at  least,  is  the  name 
which  he  attaches  to  the  royal  signet.  His  name  as  given 
in  the  books  is  Phrabat  Somdetch  Phra  Paramendo  Mahah 
Chulah-long-korn  Klow. 

On  the  afternoon  of  April  14,  at  three  o'clock,  General 
Grant  and  party  had  their  audience  with  the  King  of  Siam. 


TOL'R    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  211 

Our  Palace  of  Saronrom,  in  which  we  are  living,  is  next 
to  the  Grand  Palace;  but  so  vast  are  these  royal  homes 
that  it  was  quite  a  drive  to  the  house  of  our  next-door 
neighbor.  The  General  and  party  went  in  state  carriages, 
and  at  the  door  of  the  palace  were  met  by  an  officer.  Troops 
were  drawn  up  all  the  way  from  the  gate  to  the  door  of 
the  audience  hall,  and  it  was  quite  a  walk  before,  having 
passed  temples,  shrines,  outhouses,  pavilions  and  statelier 
mansions,  we  came  to  the  door  of  a  modest  building  and 
were  met  bv  aids  of  the  King.  A  wide  pair  of  marble 
steps  led  to  the  audience  room,  and  on  each  side  of  the  steps 
were  pots  with  blooming  flowers  and  rare  shrubs.  The 
band  in  the  courtyard  played  the  national  air,  and  as  the 
General  came  to  the  head  of  the  stairs  the  King,  who  was 
waiting,  and  wore  a  magnificent  jeweled  decoration,  ci- 
vanced  and  shook  the  hands  of  the  General  in  the  warmest 
manner.  Then,  shaking  hands  with  Mrs.  Grant,  he  offered 
her  his  arm,  and  walked  into  the  audience  hall.  The  au- 
dience hall  is  composed  of  two  large,  gorgeously  decorated 
saloons,  that  would  not  be  out  of  place  in  any  palace.  The 
"decorations  \vere  French,  and  reminded  vou  of  the  Louvre. 
In  the  first  hall  were  a  series  of  busts  of  contemporary  sov- 
ereigns and  rulers  of  states.  The  place  of  honor  was 
given  to  the  bust  of  General  Grant,  a  work  of  art  in  dark 
bronze  which  did  not  look  much  like  the  General,  and 
^eems  to  have  been  made  by  a  Fieucli  or  English  artif' 
from  photographs.  From  here  the  King  passed  on  to  a 
smaller  room,  beautifully  furnished  in  yellow  satin.  Here 
the  King  took  a  seat  on  a  sofa,  with  Mrs.  Grant  and  the 
General  on  either  side,  the  members  of  the  party  on  chairs 
near  him,  officers  of  the  court  in  the  background  standing, 
and  servants  at  the  doors,  kneeling  in  attitudes  of  sub- 
mission. The  King  is  a  spare  young  man,  active  and 
nervous  in  his  movements,  with  a  full,  clear,  almost  glitter- 
ing black  eye,  which  moved  about  restlessly  from  one  to 


212  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

the  Other,  and  while  he  talked  his  fingers  seemed  to  be 
keeping  unconscious  time  to  the  musical  measures.  When 
any  of  his  court  approached  him,  or  were  addressed  by 
him,  they  responded  by  a  gesture  or  salute  of  adoration. 
Everything  about  the  King  betokened  a  high  and  quick  intel- 
ligence, and,  although  the  audience  was  a  formal  one,  and  the 
conversation  did  not  go  beyond  words  of  courtesy  and  wel- 
come from  the  King  to  the  General  and  his  partv,  he  gave 
you  the  impression  of  a  resolute  and  able  m.an,  full  of  re- 
sources and  quite  equal  to  the  cares  of  his  station.  This 
impression  was  confirmed  by  all  that  we  heard  or  saw  in 
Siam.  The  audience  at  an  end,  the  King  led  !Mrs.  Grant 
and  the  General  to  the  head  of  the  stairs,  and  we  took  our 
leave. 

At  three  o'clock,  on  the  15th  of  April,  the  King 
returned  the  General's  visit,  by  coming  in  state  to  see  him 
at  our  palace  of  Saronrom.  This,  we  were  told,  was  a 
most  unusual  honor,  and  was  intended  as  the  highest  com- 
pliment it  was  in  His  Majesty's  power  to  betow.  A  state 
call  from  a  King  is  an  event  in  Bangkok,  and  long  before 
the  hour  the  space  in  front  of  the  palace  was  filled  with 
curious  Siamese  and  Chinese,  heedless  of  the  rain,  waiting 
to  gaze  upon  the  celestial  countenance.  As  the  hour  came, 
there  was  the  bustle  of  preparation.  First  came  a  guard, 
which  formed  in  front  of  the  palace;  then  a  smaller  guard, 
which  formed  in  the  palace  yard,  from  the  gate  to  the 
porch;  then  a  band  of  music,  which  stood  at  the  rear  of 
the  inner  guard;  then  came  attendants,  carrying  staves  in 
their  hands  to  clear  the  streets,  and  give  warning  that  the 
King  was  coming,  that  the  streets  should  be  abandoned  by 
all,  so  that  His  Majesty  should  have  unquestioned  way. 
Then  came  a  squadron  of  the  royal  body  guard  in  scarlet 
uniform,  under  the  command  of  a  royal  Prince.  The  King 
sat  in  a  carriage  alone  on  the  back  seat,  with  two  princes 
with  him,  who  sat  on  the  front  seats.     His  Royal  High- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  213 

ness  and  the  members  of  the  household  arrayed  themselves 
in  state  garments,  the  Prince  wearing  a  coat  of  purple 
;silk.  The  General  and  his  party  wore  evening  dress,  as 
worn  at  home  on  occasions  of  ceremony.  When  the  trum- 
pets announced  the  coming  of  the  King,  the  General, 
accompanied  b}'  the  Prince,  the  members  of  his  household 
^nd  party,  came  to  the  foot  of  the  stairs.  Colonel  Grant, 
"wearing  the  uniform  of  a  lieutenant-colonel,  waited  at  the 
gate  to  receive  the  Kingf  in  his  father's  name. 

The  General  waited  at  the  foot  of  the  marble  steps, 
and,  as  the  King  advanced,  shook  hands  with  him  cordially 
and  led  him  to  the  reception  room.  The  King  was  dressed 
in  simple  Siamese  costume,  wearing  the  decoration  of  Siam, 
but  not  in  uniform.  Mr.  Alabaster,  the  interpreter,  stood 
"behind  the  King  and  the  General.  The  King,  \vho  spoke 
Siamese,  said  he  hoped  that  the  General  had  found  every- 
thing comfortable  for  himself  and  j^^i'^J  ^t  the  Saranrom 
Palace. 

The  General  said  that  nothing  could  be  more  agreeable 
than  the  hospitality  of  the  Prince. 

The  King  said  he  hoped  that  the  General,  if  he  wanted 
anything,  to  see  any  part  of  Siam,  go  anywhere  or  do  any- 
thing, would  express  the  \vish,  as  he  would  feel  it  a  great 
privilege  to  give  him  anything  in  this  kingdom. 

General  Grant  said  he  appreciated  the  King's  kind- 
ness, and  thanked  him. 

The  King,  after  a  pause,  said  that  General  Grant's  visit 
\vas  especially  agreeable  to  him,  because,  not  only  in  his 
■own  reign,  but  before,  Siam  had  been  under  obligations  to 
the  United  States.  Siam  saw  in  the  United  States  not  only 
a  great  but  a  friendly  power,  which  did  not  look  upon  the 
East  with  any  idea  of  aggrandizement,  and  to  whom  it  was 
always  pleasant  to  turn  for  counsel  and  advice.  More  than 
that,  the  influence  of  most  of  the  Americans  who  had  come 


214  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT  S 

to  Siam  had  been  good,  and  those  who  had  been  in  the 
government's  service  had  been  of  value  to  the  State.  The 
efforts  of  the  missionaries  to  spread  a  knowledge  of  the 
arts  and  sciences,  of  machinery  and  of  medicine,  among  the 
Siamese,  had  been  commendable.  The  King  was  glad  to 
have  the  opjDortunity  of  saying  this  to  one  who  had  been 
the  chief  magistrate  of  the  iVmerican  people. 

General  Grant  responded  that  the  policy  of  the  United 
States  was  a  policy  of  non-intervention  in  everything  that 
concerned  the  internal  affairs  of  other  nations.  It  had 
become  almost  a  traditional  policy,  and  experience  con- 
firmed its  wisdom.  The  country  needed  all  the  energies  of 
its  own  peojole  for  its  development,  and  its  only  interest  in 
the  East  was  to  do  what  it  could  to  benefit  the  j^eople, 
especially  in  opening  markets  for  American  manufactures. 
The  General,  in  his  travels  through  India  and  Burmah,  had 
been  much  gratified  with  the  commendations  bestowed 
upon  American  products ;  and  although  the  market  was  as 
yet  a  small  one,  he  felt  certain  that  our  trade  with  the  East 
would  become  a  great  one.  There  was  the  field  at  least, 
and  our  people  had  the  opportunit3\  Nothing  would  please 
him  more  than  to  see  Siam  sharing  in  this  trade.  Beyond 
this  there  was  no  desire  on  the  part  of  the  American  gov- 
ernment to  seek  an  influence  in  the  East. 

The  King  said  nothing  would  please  him  more  than  the 
widest  possible  development  of  the  commerce  between 
Siam  and  America.  The  resources  of  Siam  were  great, 
but  their  development  limited.  Siam  was  like  the  United 
States  in  one  respect,  that  it  had  a  large  territory  and  a 
small  population,  and  the  development  of  many  sources  of 
wealth  that  were  known  to  exist  had  been  retarded  from 
this  cause. 

General  Grant  thought  this  diificulty  might  be  met  by 
the    introduction   of  skilled    labor,   such,  for   instance,   as 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  315 

mining  experts  from  Nevada  and  California,  who  could 
prospect  and  locate  mines,  and  labor-saving  machinery,  in 
which  the  Americans  especially  excelled. 

The  King  assented  to  this,  with  the  remark  that  the 
Siamese  were  a  conservative  people  and  studied  any- 
thing new  very  carefully  before  adopting  it.  Their  policy 
in  foreign  relations  had  been  a  simple  one  —  peace  w^ith 
foreign  powers  and  steady  develoj^ment  of  the  country. 
Siam  was  a  small  country  with  limited  resources,  and  she 
knew  that  she  could  not  contend  with  the  srreat  foi-eig^n 
powers.  Consequently  she  always  depended  upon  the  jus- 
tice and  good  will  of  foreign  powers.  This  sometimes  led 
to  their  appearing  to  consent  or  to  submit  to  some  things 
\vhich  under  other  circumstances  and  by  other  and  greater 
nations  would  not  be  endured.  In  the  end,  however,  it 
worked  right,  and  Siam,  looking  back  over  her  relations 
with  the  great  powers,  found,  on  the  whole,  no  reason  for 
regret.  In  the  tnain  these  relations  had  been  for  the  good 
of  the  Siamese  people.  From  the  foreign  powers  Sia^in 
had  always  received  encouragement. 

The  King  led  the  way  to  the  upper  audience  chamber,, 
the  saloon  of  the  statues.     Here  ensued  a  long-  conversa- 
tion  between  the  King  and  the  General  and  the  various^ 
members  of  the  party.     Mrs.  Grant,  In  the  inner  room,, 
had  a  conversation  with  the  Queen,  who  had  not  been  at  the 
table.     In  conversing  with  the  General,  the  King  became 
warm  and  almost  affectionate.     He  was  i^roud  of  having 
made  the  acquaintance  of  the  General,  and  he  wanted  to 
know  more  of  the  American  people.     He  wished  Ameri- 
cans to  know  that  he  was  a  friend  of  the  countrv.     As  to 
the   General   himself,  the  King  hoped  when  the  General 
returned  to  the    United    States  that    he    would  write   the 
King  and  allovv'  the  King  to  write  to  him,  and  always  be 
his  friend  and  correspondent.     The  General  said  he  would 
always  remember  his  visit  to  Siam;  that  it  would  afford 


2l6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRAXt's 

him  pleasure  to  know  that  he  was  the  friend  of  the  King; 
that  he  would  write  to  the  King  and  always  be  glad  to 
hear  from  him;  and  if  he  could  ever  be  of  service  to  the 
King  it  would  be  a  pleasure.  With  Mr.  Borie  the  King 
also  had  a  long  conversation,  and  his  manner  toward  the 
venerable  ex-Secretary  was  especially  kind  and  genial.  It 
was  midnight  before  the  party  came  to  an  end. 

On  the  next  morning  there  was  a  state  dinner  at  the 
royal  palace.  The  party  consisted  of  the  King,  His  Royal 
Hi""hness  the  Celestial  Prince,  several  princes,  members  of 
the  royal  family  of  lower  rank.  General  Grant  and  party, 
the  American  Consul,  Mi*.  Sickles,  and  Miss  Struder, 
daughter  of  the  Consul  at  Singapore;  Mr.  Torrey,  the 
American  Vice-Consul,  and  Mrs.  Torrey;  the  Foreign 
Minister,  his  son,  the  King's  private  secretary,  Mr.  Ala- 
baster, the  members  of  the  Foreign  Office,  and  the  aids  of 
the  King  who  had  been  attending  the  General.  The 
Siamese  all  wore  state  dresses  —  coats  of  gold  cloth,  richly 
embroidered  —  and  the  King  wore  the  family  decoration,  a 
star  of  nine  points,  the  centre  a  diamond,  and  the  other 
points  with  a  rich  jewel  of  different  character,  embracing 
the  precious  stones  found  in  Siam.  The  General  was  re- 
ceived in  the  audience  hall,  and  the  dinner  was  served  in 
the  lower  hall  or  dining-room.  There  were  forty  guests 
present,  and  the  service  of  the  table  was  silver,  the  prevail- 
ing design  being  the  three-headed  elephant,  which  belongs 
to  the  arms  of  Siam.  This  service  alone  cost  ten  thousand 
pounds  in  England.  There  were  two  bands  in  attendance, 
one  playing  Siamese,  and  the  other  European  music,  alter- 
nately. The  Celestial  Prince  escorted  Mrs.  Grant  to  dinner, 
and  sat  opposite  the  King  at  the  centre  of  the  table.  General 
Grant  sat  next  the  King.  The  dinner  was  long,  elaborate, 
and  in  the  European  style,  with  the  exception  of  some 
dishes  of  curry  dressed  in  Siamese  fashion,  which  we  were 
not  brave  enough  to  do  more  than  taste.     The  night  was 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  21^ 

warm,  but  the  room  was  kept  moderately  cool  by  a  system 
of  penekahs  or  large  fans  swinging  from  the  ceiling,  which 
kept  the  air  in  circulation. 

After  they  had  been  at  the  table  about  three  hours  there 
was  a  pause  and  a  signal.  The  fans  stopped,  the  music 
paused,  and  Mr.  Alabaster,  as  interpreter,  took  his  place 
behind  the  King.  His  ^Majesty  then  arose,  and  the  com- 
pany with  him,  and,  in  a  clear  accent  heard  all  over  the 
saloon,  made  the  following  speech  in  Siamese : 

"Your  Royal  Highness,  Ladies  and  Gentle- 
men, Now  Assembled:  I  beg  you  to  hear  the  expres- 
sion of  the  j^leasure  which  I  have  felt  in  receiving  as  my 
sruest  a  President  of  the  United  States  of  America.  Siam 
has  for  many  years  past  derived  great  advantages  from 
America,  whose  citizens  have  introduced  into  my  kingdom 
many  arts  and  sciences,  much  medical  knowledge  and  many 
valuable  books,  to  the  great  advantage  of  the  country. 
Even  before  our  countries  were  joined  in  treaty  alliance, 
citizens  of  America  came  here  and  benefited  us.  Since 
then  our  relations  have  greatly  improved,  and  to  the  gi^eat 
advantage  of  Siam,  and  recently  the  improvement  has  been 
still  more  marked.  Therefore  it  is  natural  that  we  should 
be  exceedingly  gratified  by  the  visit  paid  to  us  by  a  President 
of  the  United  States.  General  Grant  has  a  grand  fame, 
that  has  reached  even  to  Siam,  that  has  been  known  here 
for  several  years.  We  are  well  aware  that  as  a  true  soldier 
he  first  saw  glory  as  a  leader  in  war,  and,  thereafter  accept- 
ing the  office  of  President,  earned  the  admiration  of  all 
men  as  being  a  statesman  of  the  highest  rank.  It  is  a  great 
gratification  to  all  of  us  to  meet  one  thus  eminent  both  in 
the  government  of  war  and  of  peace.  We  see  him  and 
are  charmed  by  his  gracious  manner,  and  feel  sure  that  his 
visit  will  inaugura^te  friendly  relations  with  the  United 
States  of  a  still  closer  nature  than  before,  and  of  the  most 
enduring  character.     Therefore  I  ask  you  all  to  join  with 


k 


2lS  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

me  in  drinking  the  health  of  General  Grant  and  wishing 
him  every  blessing."  / 

When  the  King  finished,  Mr.  Alabaster  translated  the 
speech  into  English,  the  company  all  the  time  remaining 
'on  their  feet.     Then  the  toast  was  drank  with  cheers,  the 
band  playing  the  American  national  air. 

General  Grant  then  arose,  and,  in  a  low  but  clear  and 
perfectly  distinct  voice,  said: 

"Your  Majesty,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen:  I 
am  very  much  obliged  to  Your  Majesty  for  the  kind  and 
complimentary  manner  in  which  you  have  welcomed  me 
to  Siam.  I  am  glad  that  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to 
visit  this  country  and  to  thank  Your  Majesty  in  person  for 
your  letters  inviting  me  to  Siam,  and  to  see  with  my  own 
eyes  your  country  and  your  people.  I  feel  that  it  would 
have  been  a  misfortune  if  the  programme  of  my  journey 
had  not  included  Siam.  I  have  now  been  absent  from 
home  nearly  two  years,  and  during  that  time  I  have  .seen 
every  capital  and  nearly  every  large  city  in  Europe,  as 
well  as  the  j^rincipal  cities  in  India,  Burmah  and  the  Malay 
Peninsula.  I  have  seen  nothmg  that  has  interested  me 
more  than  Siam,  and  every  hour  of  my  visit  here  has  been 
agreeable  and  instructive.  For  the  ^velcome  I  have  re- 
ceived from  Your  Majesty,  the  princes  and  members  of  the 
Siamese  government,  and  the  people  generally,  I  am  very 
grateful.  I  accept  it,  not  as  personal  to  myself  alone,  but 
as  a  mark  of  the  friendship  felt  for  my  country  by  Your 
Majesty  and  the  people  of  Siam.  I  am  glad  to  see  that 
feeling,  because  I  believe  that  the  best  interests  of  the  two 
countries  can  be  benefited  by  nothing  so  much  as  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  most  cordial  relations  between  them.  On 
my  return  to  America  I  shall  do  what  I  can  to  cement  those 
relations.  I  hope  that  in  America  we  shall  see  more  of  the 
Siamese,  that  we  shall  have  embassies  and  diplomatic  rela- 
tions, that  our  commerce  and  manufactures  will  increase 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  219 

with  Siam,  and  that  your  young  men  will  visit  our  country 
and  attend  our  colleges  as  they  now  go  to  colleges  in  Ger- 
many and  England.  I  can  assure  them  all  a  kind  reception, 
and  I  feel  that  the  visits  wouid  be  interesting  and  advan- 
tageous. I  again  thank  Your  Majesty  for  the  splendid 
hospitality  which  has  been  shown  to  myself  and  my  party, 
and  I  trust  that  your  reign  will  be  happy  and  prosperous, 
and  that  Siam  will  continue  to  advance  in  the  arts  of  civili- 
zation." 

General  Grant,  after  a  pause,  then  said : 

"  I  hope  you  will  allow  me  to  ask  you  to  drink  the 
health  of  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Siam.  I  am  honored 
by  the  opportunity  of  proposing  that  toast  in  his  own  capi- 
tal and  his  own  palace,  and  of  saying  how  much  I  have 
been  impressed  with  his  enlightened  rule.  I  now  ask  you 
to  drink  the  health  of  His  Majesty  the  King,  and  prosperity 
and  peace  to  the  people  of  Siam." 

After  a  round  of  receptions,  entertainments  and  excur- 
sions, the  General  bade  adieu  to  Siam,  having  passed  a 
delightful  week. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


GENERAL  GRANT  IN  CHINA. 

On  April  25,  General  Grant  arrived  at  Saigon  in  the 
French  mail  steamship  Irawaddy.  He  and  his  party 
were  invited  by  Rear-Admiral  La  Fond,  Governor  of 
French  Cochin  China,  to  sojourn  at  the  Government  House. 
They  passed  the  night  there,  and  next  day  visited  public 
buildings  and  places  of  interest.  A  public  levee  was  given 
on  the  evening  of  the  26th.  The  guests  returned  to  the 
ship  about  midnight,  and  the  voyage  was  resumed  on  the 
27th.  They  reached  Hong  Kong  on  the  evening  of  April 
30.  The  shi]^  was  immediately  boarded  by  United  States 
Consuls  Mosby,  of  Hong  Kong;  Lincoln,  of  Canton; 
Charge  d' Affaires  Holcombe,  and  de2:)utations  of  citizens 
of  various  countries,  including  Japan.  The  same  evening 
the  visitors  proceeded  to  the  United  States  ship  Ashuelot, 
w^here  they  were  received  with  a  salute  of  twenty-one 
guns. 

After  partaking  of  refreshments,  they  went  ashore  in 
the  Colonial  government  launch.  Salutes  were  fired  by 
batteries  all  along  the  river. 

General  Grant  arrived  at  Canton  on  the  evening  of 
May  6,  and  was  received  by  the  Consular  officials,  and  con- 
ducted to  the  Viceroy's  yaman,  three  miles  from  the  point 
of  debarkation.  Canton  is  situated  on  the  Pearl  River, 
thirty  miles  from  the  coast.  The  Viceroy  sent  a  gunboat 
out  as  escort  up  the  river.     This  vessel,  bearing  the  Ameri- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD,  221 

can  flag  at  the  fore  out  of  compliment  to  the  General,  fol- 
lowed all  the  way. 

At  various  points  in  the  river  —  wherever,  indeed,  there 
were  forts  —  salutes  were  fired  and  troops  paraded.  These 
lines  of  troops,  w^th  their  flags  —  and  nearly  every  other 
man  in  a  Chinese  army  carries  a  flag  —  looked  picturesque 
and  theatrical  as  seen  from  our  deck. 

It  was  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  before  the  lights  of 
Canton  were  seen.  The  Chinese  gunboats,  as  the  General 
and  party  came  to  anchorage,  burned  blue  lights  and  fired 
rockets.  The  landing  was  decorated  with  Chinese  lanterns, 
and  many  of  the  junks  in  the  river  burned  lights  and  dis- 
played the  American  flag.  The  whole  city  had  been  wait- 
ing all  the  afternoon,  and  had  now  gone  home  to  dinner. 
Next  morning  salutes  were  exchanged  between  the  Ash- 
uelot  and  the  Chinese  gunboats.  The  General  remained 
at  home  during  the  morning  to  receive  calls.  The  coming 
of  General  Grant  had  created  a  flutter  in  the  Chinese  mind. 
No  foreign  barbarian  of  so  high  a  rank  had  ever  visited  the 
Celestial  Kingdom.  As  soon  as  the  Viceroy  learned  of 
the  visit,  he  sent  word  to  the  American  Consul  that  he 
would  receive  General  Grant  with  special  honors.  The 
Viceroy  ordered  all  the  houses  closed,  streets  cleared  and 
the  troops  paraded.  A  placard  issued,  that  a  foreigner  was 
coming  to  do  the  Viceroy  honor,  and  that  the  people  must 
do  him  honor.  We  give  a  translation  of  one  of  these  extra 
bulletins: 

"  We  have  just  heard  that  the  King  of  America,  being 
on  friendly  terms  with  China,  will  leave  America  early  in 
the  third  month,  bringing  with  him  a  suite  of  ofticers,  etc., 
all  complete  on  board  the  ship.  It  is  said  that  he  is  bring- 
ing a  large  number  of  rare  presents  with  him,  and  that  he 
will  be  here  in  Canton  about  the  6th  or  9th  of  May.  He 
will  land  at  the  Tintsy  ferry,  and  will  proceed  to  the  Vice- 
roy's palace  by  way  of  the  South  gate,  the  Fantai's  Nga- 


222  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

mun  and  the  Waning  Street.  Viceroy  Lan  has  arranged 
that  all  the  mandarins  shall  be  there  to  meet  him,  and  a 
full  Court  will  be  held  After  a  little  friendly  conversa- 
tion he  will  leave  the  Viceroy's  palace,  and  visit  the  vari- 
ous objects  of  interest  within  and  without  the  walls.  He 
will  then  proceed  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  to  con- 
verse and  pass  the  night.  It  is  not  stated  what  will  then 
take  place,  but  notice  will  be  given." 

As  the  hour  approached  for  the  General  to  enter  Can- 
ton, the  crowd  on  the  street  grew  larger  and  larger.  A 
Tartar  officer  arrived  with  a  detachment  of  soldiers,  who 
formed,  and  kept  the  crowd  back.  Then  came  the  chairs 
and  the  chair  bearers,  for  in  Canton  you  must  ride  in  chairs 
and  be  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  men.  Rank  is  shown  by 
the  color  of  the  chair  and  the  number  of  attendants.  The 
General's  chair  was  a  stately  affair.  On  the  top  was  a  sil- 
ver globe.  The  color  was  green,  a  color  highly  esteemed 
in  China,  and  next  in  rank  to  yellow,  which  is  sacred  and 
consecrated  to  the  Emperor,  wno  alone  can  ride  in  a  yeiiow 
chair.  The  chair  is  borne  oy  eigm  men,  and  swings  on 
long  bamboo  poles.  In  addition  to  the  chair  bearers,  there 
was  a  small  guard  of  unarmed  soldiers,  some  ahead  and 
others  behind  the  chair,  whose  presence  gave  dignity  to 
the  chair  and  its  occupant.  The  principal  business  of  this 
guard  seemed  to  be  to  shout  and  to  make  all  the  noise 
possible. 

At  last  they  were  under  way  for  their  visit  to  the  Vice- 
roy. First  rode  the  single  Tartar  officer,  then  came  the 
shouting  guard,  then  General  Grant  in  his  chair  of  state. 
The  Genei'al  wore  evening  dress.  The  crowd  and  enthu- 
siasm manifested  all  along  the  route  was  an  extraordinary 
sight  wherever  the  street  was  intersected  with  other  streets. 
The  ci'owd  became  so  dense  that  additional  troops  were 
required  to  hold  them  in  place,  and  at  various  points  the 
Chinese  salute  of  three  guns  was  fired. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  223 

The  road  to  the  viceregal  palace  was  three  miles,  and 
as  the  pace  of  the  coolie  who  carries  the  chair  is  a  slow 
one,  and  especially  on  days  of  multitudes  and  jDageantry, 
they  were  over  an  hour  on  their  journey,  and  for  this  hour 
they  journeyed  through  a  sea  of  faces,  a  hushed  and  silent 
sea,  that  swept  around  them,  covering  windows,  doors, 
streets,  roof  tops,  wherever  there  was  room  for  a  pair  of 
feet  or  hands. 

Some  of  the  party  estimated  that  there  were  two  hun- 
dred tliousand  people  to  witness  General  Grant's  progress 
through  Canton.  Two  hundred  thousand  men,  women 
and  children  may  be  taken,  therefore,  as  an  estimate  by 
one  who  saw  and  took  part  in  the  ceremony.  But  no 
massing  together  of  figures,  although  you  ascend  into  the 
hundreds  of  thousands,  v/ill  give  an  idea  of  the  multitude. 
The  march  was  a  slow  one.  There  were  frequent  pauses. 
Arrived  at  the  palace  of  the  Viceroy,  the  visitors  descend 
from  their  chairs,  and  enter  the  open  reception  room  or 
audience  chamber.  But  the  booming  guns,  which  boom  in 
a  quick,  angry  fashion;  the  increasing  crowds,  the  renewed 
lines  of  soldiery,  now  standing  in  double  line,  their  guns  at 
a  present;  the  sons  of  mandarins,  the  Viceroy's  guard,  un- 
der trees,  and  the  open,  shaded  enclosure  into  which  we 
are  borne  by  our  staggering,  panting  chair-bearers,  tell  us 
Jhat  we  are  at  our  journey's  end,  and  at  the  palace  of  the 
Viceroy,  We  descend  frc  m  our  chairs,  and  enier  the  open 
reception  room  or  audience  chamber.  The  v  iceroy  hmi- 
self,  surrounded  by  all  the  great  officers  of  his  court,  is  wait- 
ing at  the  door.  As  General  Grant  advances,  accompanied 
by  the  Consul,  the  Viceroy  steps  forward  and  meets  him 
with  a  gesture  of  welcome,  which  to  our  barbarian  eyes 
looks  like  a  gesture  of  adoration.  He  wears  the  man- 
darin's hat,  and  the  pink  button  and  flowing  robes  of  silk, 
the  breast  and  back  embroidered  a  good  deal  like  the  sac- 
rificial robes  of  an  archbishop  at  high  mass.     The  Viceroy 


224  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

is  a  Chinaman,  and  not  of  the  governing  Tartar  race.  He 
has  a  thin,  somewhat  worn  face,  and  is  over  fifty  years  of 
age.  His  manner  was  the  perfection  of  courtesy  and  cor- 
diality. He  said  he  knew  how  unworthy  he  was  of  a  visit 
from  one  so  great  as  General  Grant,  but  that  this  unwor- 
thiness  only  increased  the  honor.  Then  he  presented  the 
General  to  the  members  of  his  Court  —  Chang  Tsein,  the 
Tartar  General;  Jen  Chi,  the  Imperial  Commissioner  of 
Customs;  San  Chang  Mow,  the  Deputy  Tartar  General, 
and  Chi  Hwo,  the  Assistant  Tartar  General.  After  Gen- 
eral Grant  had  been  presented,  each  of  his  party  in  turn 
were  welcomed  by  the  Viceroy,  and  presented  to  his 
suite. 

During  this  interchange  of  compliments  the  reception 
room  was  filled  wnth  members  and  retainers  of  the  Court. 
Mandarins,  aids,  soldiers  —  all  ranks  w^ere  present.  The 
whole  scene  was  one  of  curiosity  and  excitement.  The 
Chinamen  seemed  anxious  to  do  all  they  could  to  show 
General  Grant  how  welcome  was  his  cominsr,  but  such  a 
visit  was  a  new  thing,  and  they  had  no  precedent  for  the 
reception  of  strangers  who  held  so  high  a  position  as  Gen- 
eral Grant. 

After  the  civilities  were  exchanged,  the  Viceroy  led  the 
General  and  party  into  another  room,  where  there  were 
chairs  and  tables  around  the  room  in  a  semi-circle.  Between 
each  couple  of  chairs  was  a  small  table,  on  which  were 
cups  of  tea.  The  General  was  led  to  the  place  of  honor 
in  the  centre,  and  the  Chinese  clustered  together  in  one 
corner.  After  some  persuasion  the  Viceroy  was  induced 
to  sit  beside  the  General,  and  the  conversation  proceeded. 
Nothing  was  said  beyond  the  usual  compliments,  which 
were  only  repeated  in  various  forms. 

After  sitting  fifteen  minutes  they  drank  tea  in  Chinese 
fashion.  The  tea  is  served  in  two  cups,  one  of  which  is 
placed  over  the  other  in  such  a  manner  that  when  you  take 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  235 

up  the  cups  you  have  a  globe  in  your  hands.  The  tea  is 
plain,  and  as  each  particular  cup  has  been  brewed  by  itself— 
is,  in  fact,  brewing  while  you  are  waiting  —  you  have  the 
leaves  of  the  tea,  avoiding  the  leaves  by  pushing  the  upper 
bowl  down  into  the  lower  one  so  as  to  leave  a  minute  open- 
ing and  draw  out  the  tea.  Some  drank  the  tea  in  orthodox 
home  fashion,  but  others,  being  sensitive  to  the  reputation 
of  barbarism,  perhaps,  managed  the  two  bowls  very  much 
as  though  it  were  an  experiment  in  jugglery,  and  drank  the 
tea  like  a  mandarin.  This  ceremony  over,  they  were  led 
into  another  room  that  opened  on  a  garden.  Here  were 
guards,  aids  and  mandarins  and  lines  of  sokliers.  They 
found  a  large  table  spread  covered  with  dishes  —  eighty 
dishes  in  all.  A  part  of  a  Chinese  reception  is  entertain- 
ment, and  the  General's  was  to  be  regal.  They  sat  around 
the  table  and  a  cloud  of  attendants  appeared,  who  with 
silver  and  ivory  chopsticks  heaped  their  plates.  Beside 
each  plate  were  two  chopsticks  and  a  knife  and  fork,  so  that 
they  might  eat  their  food  as  they  pleased,  in  Chinese  or 
European  fashion. 

The  food  was  all  sweetmeats,  candied  fruits,  walnuts,  al- 
monds, ginger,  cocoanuts,  with  cups  of  tea  and  wine.  The 
Viceroy  with  his  chopsticks  helped  the  General.  This  is 
true  Chinese  courtesy,  for  the  host  to  make  himself  the  serv- 
ant of  his  guest.  Then  came  a  service  of  wine  —  sweet 
champagne  and  sauterne  —  in  which  the  Viceroy  pledged 
us  all,  bowing  to  each  guest  as  he  drank.  Then,  again, 
came  tea,  which  in  China  is  the  signal  for  departure,  an  in- 
timation that  your  visit  is  over.  The  Viceroy  and  party 
arose  and  led  them  to  their  chairs.  Each  one  was  severally 
and  especially  saluted  as  they  entered  their  chairs;  and  as 
they  filed  off  under  the  trees,  their  coolies  dangling  them  on 
their  shoulders,  they  left  the  Viceroy  and  his  whole  court, 
with  rows  of  mandarins  and  far-extending  lines  of  soldiers 
in  an  attitude  of  devotion,  hands  held  together  toward  the 
IS 


226  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

forehead  and  heads  bent,  the  soldiers  with  arms  presented. 
The  music,  real,  banging,  gong-thumping  Chinese  music, 
broke  out,  twenty-one  guns  were  fired,  so  close  that  the 
smoke  obscured  the  view,  and  they  plunged  into  the  sea  of 
life  through  which  they  had  floated,  and  back  again,  through 
one  of  the  most  wonderful  sights  ever  seen,  back  to  their 
shady  home  in  the  American  Consulate. 

Consul-General  Lincoln  gave  a  grand  State  dinner  on 
the  nth.  In  addition  to  the  members  of  the  General's 
party  there  were  Captain  Perkins,  Mr.  McEwen,  Mr. 
Deering,  Mr.  Case  and  Mr.  Strickland,  of  the  Ashuelot, 
and  the  leading  members  of  the  foreign  settlement  to  the 
number  of  forty.  The  whole  house  was  dressed  with 
wreaths  and  evergreens  and  American  flags,  and  in  front 
of  the  house  was  a  platform  for  fireworks.  The  day  had 
been  fitful  as  far  as  ram  was  concerned,  and  heavy  black 
clouds  banked  themselves  in  the  skies.  But  the  fire- 
works were  fairly  successful,  and  the  dinner  was  good,  and 
Mr.  Lincoln  made  an  excellent  speech,  to  which  the  Gett' 
eral  replied  by  thanking  the  Consul  for  his  courtesy.  He 
had,  he  said,  visited  every  capital  and  nearly  every  large 
city  in  Europe,  and  looked  forward  with  interest  to  his  con- 
tinued progress  through  Asia.  The  honors  he  received 
were  paid,  not  to  him,  but  to  his  country,  and  in  that  spirit 
he  accepted  them.  He  believed  that  peace  could  have  no 
better  assurance  than  in  the  harmony  and  cordial  goocf 
feeling  of  the  civilized  nations  of  the  world,  and  in  presence 
of  so  many  representatives  of  these  nations  he  felt  he 
could  propose  no  better  sentiment  than  the  health  of  the 
rulers  and  governments  they  represented.  Mr.  Rowe  then 
proposed  the  health  in  flattering  terms  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lincoln.  Mr.  Lincoln  thanked  Mr.  Rowe  in  a  few  well 
turned  remarks,  and  the  party  left  the  dining-room  to  wit- 
ness a  grand  display  of  fireworks.  A  bamboo  erection, 
sixty  feet  high,  had  been  placed  in  front  of  the  Consulate, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  227 

and  after  a  number  of  rockets,  Catherine  wheels  and  color- 
ed lights  of  all  kinds  had  been  let  off,  a  set  piece  displaying 
a  pagoda  was  fired  and  a  magnificent  spectacle  was  pro- 
duced, winding  up  with  a  volley  of  rockets  of  all  colors. 
At  ten  o'clock  a  recejDtion  was  he.ld  at  the  Consulate,  when 
the  whole  of  the  American  and  EurojDcan  community  were 
presented  to  General  Grant  by  Mr.  Lincoln. 

The  welcome  given  General  Grant  at  Canton  was 
even  more  enthusiastic,  and,  in  point  of  numbers  participat- 
ing, the  most  demonstrative,  of  any  that  had  preceded  it. 
There  was  so  much  ceremony  during  the  General's  visit 
that  he  had  scarcely  any  opportunity  to  see  the  city,  he 
having  given  himself  but  four  days  to  see  Canton,  and  had 
promised  to  return  to  Hong  Kong  to  be  present  at  a  garden 
party  to  be  given  on  Monday. 

General  Grant  and  party  sailed  down  the  river  from 
Canton  over  to  Macao,  within  five  hours'  sail  of  Hong 
Kong.  Macao  is  a  colony  of  Portugal,  and  has  been  for 
more  than  three  centuries.  Owing  to  the  serious  illness  of 
the  Governor,  there  was  no  pubhc  reception.  The  Gov- 
ernor sent  the  most  cordial  greeting  and  welcome  to 
Macao.  The  General  landed  and  drove  to  a  hotel.  In  the 
evening  he  strolled  about,  and  in  the  morning  visited  the 
one  site  that  gives  Macao  world-wide  fame  —  the  home 
and  grotto  of  Camoens.  Camoens  was  a  soldier-poet,  lost 
his  sight  in  a  conflict  with  the  Moors,  and,  dissatisfied  with 
the  condition  of  affairs  in  Portugal,  sailed  for  the  East,  and 
came  in  banishment  to  Macao.  Here  he  wrote  the 
"  Lusiad."  Senor  Marques,  a  Portuguese  resident,  is  now 
the  owner  of  the  Grotto.  The  General  was  shown  over 
the  grounds  by  the  Senor,.,who,  in  honor  of  his  coming, 
had  built  an  arch  over  the  entrance  with  the  inscription, 
*' Welcome  to  General  Grant."  The  grounds  surroundingf 
the  Grotto  are  beautiful  and  extensive,  and  for  some  time 
the  party  walked  past  the  bamboo,  the  pimento,  the  coffee, 


k 


228  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

and  other  tropical  trees  and  plants.  Then  they  ascended 
to  a  bluff  overlooking  the  town  and  sea,  and  from  that 
point  they  had  a  commanding  view  of  the  town,  the  ocean, 
and  the  rocky  coasts  of  China.  The  Grotto  of  Camoens  is 
enclosed  with  an  iron  railing,  and  a  bust  of  the  poet  sur- 
mounts the  spot  where,  according  to  tradition,  he  was  wont 
to  sit  and  muse  and  compose  his  immortal  poems.  General 
Grant  inscribed  his  name  in  the  visitors'  book,  and,  accom- 
panied by  Senor  Marques,  returned  to  the  Ashuelot,  which 
at  once  steamed  for  Hong  Kong.  Salutes  were  fired  from 
the  Portuguese  battery  as  they  left,  and  at  two  o'clock  they 
landed  in  Hong  Kong  harbor,  where  Governor  Hennessy 
met  the  General  and  took  him  to  the  Government  Hoube. 

General  Grant's  reception  at  Hong  Kong  was  as  brill- 
iant and  enthusiastic  as  that  at  Canton.  Disembarking 
amid  salutes  from  the  Ashuelot  and  the  Japanese  corvette 
Nishin,  they  were  received  at  a  decorated  landing-pier  by 
Governor  Hennessy  and  staff,  members  of  the  Legislative 
Council,  heads  of  the  military  and  naval  services,  a  guard 
of  honor,  and  a  multitude  of  American,  European  and 
Chinese  spectators.  After  introductions,  they  were  escorted 
to  the  Government  House.  Many  streets  were  adorned 
with  flags,  etc.,  and  houses  were  illuminated.  On  May  i 
General  Grant  called  upon  Consul  Mosby  and  informally 
inspected  localities  of  importance.  On  May  3  he  held  a 
public  reception  at  the  United  States  Consulate,  and  dined 
with  Chief  Justice  Sir  John  Smale.  May  3  he  attended  a 
state  dinner  at  Government  House.  The  felicitous  address 
of  Governor  Hennessy  w^as  warmly  commended  by  the 
Americans.  General  Grant  responded  briefly  and  effect- 
ively, giving  the  sentiment  of  "  Good  will  and  alliance 
between  Britons  and  Americans." 

The  citizens  of  Hong  Kong  had  arranged  a  garden 
party  to  be  given  General  Grant  on  Monday,  but  the 
weather  interfered,  and  the  General  was  compelled  to  leave 


TOUR  AROUXD  THE  WORLD.  229 

on  Monday,  to  keep  engagements  made  for  him  in  the 
North.  He  spent  Sunday  quietly  with  the  Governor,  and 
on  Monday  morning  took  leave  of  his  brilliant  and  hospita- 
ble host.  Before  leaving,  the  General,  accompanied  by  the 
Governor  and  our  Consul,  Colonel  John  S.  Mosby,  received 
a  deputation  of  Chinese,  who  wished  to  present  him  with 
an  address.  The  presentation  took  place  in  the  parlors  of 
the  Government  House,  when  the  following  address  was 
read :  — 

"  To  General  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  late  President  of  the  United   States 
oT  America,  and  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  United  States  Army 

"Sir:  On  the  occasion  of  vour  honorinsr  Hons:  Konsf 
with  your  presence,  we,  the  undersigned,  on  behalf  of  the 
Chinese  community,  approach  you  to  give  you  a  hearty 
welcome,  and  beg  to  present  you  an  address  expressive  of 
our  high  esteem  and  respect  for  you.  During  your  Presi- 
dency your  geat  name  and  noble  deeds  were  known  far 
and  wide,  and  by  the  carrymg  out  of  a  just  policy  you 
commanded  admiration  and  respect  from  all  classes  of 
people  under  your  rule.  We  have  been  delighted  to  find 
that  in  international  questions  you  have  shown  a  spirit  of 
impartiality  and  fairness,  treating  Americans  and  foreigners 
alike,  and  the  Chinese  who  have  been  trading  in  the  United 
States  have  sung,  and  continue  to  sing,  praises  of  the  many 
good  actions  done  by  you  while  in  office. 

"  We  had  longed  to  see  you,  but,  being  far  away,  we 
were  hitherto  not  permitted  to  realize  our  wish.  Now 
that  you  have  favored  us  with  a  visit  we  avail  ourselves  of 
the  opportunity  to  present  you  with  a  scroll  inscribed  with 
these  four  words,  "Benefit  to  Chinese  People,"  which  we 
hope  may  serve  as  a  souvenir  of  your  interview  with  the 
Chinese  community  of  Hong  Kong. 

'.'Signed  by  Lee  Ting,  Ho  Amei,  Lee  Tuck  Cheong, 
and  ninety  others." 

General  Grant  said: — "Gentlemen,  I  am  very  happy  to 


330  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

meet  so  many  representatives  of  the  Chinese  community 
in  Hong  Kong,  and  for  the  kind  words  of  your  address 
accept  my  thanks.  I  liave  looked  forward  for  a  long  time 
to  my  visit  to  China,  and  am  pleased  to  see,  as  I  have  seen 
in  Hong  Kong,  that  the  Chinese  are  a  thrifty,  industrious 
and  intelligent  people.  I  have  no  other  wish  than  that 
between  the  two  peoples  there  shall  be  harmony  and  the 
best  relations,  and  in  this  spirit  I  accept  your  address  and 
the  beautiful  memento  which  accompanies  it,  and  thank  you 
for  your  good  wishes." 

After  giving  the  address  the  General  and  party,  accom- 
panied by  Governor  Hennessy  and  wife  and  Colonel 
Mosby,  took  chairs  and  proceeded  to  the  landing,  to  embark 
for  the  north.  There  was  a  guard  of  honor  at  the  wharf, 
and  all  the  foreign  residents  were  present.  As  the  General 
went  on  board  the  launch,  hearty  cheers  were  given,  which 
were  again  and  again  repeated  as  he  steamed  into  the  bay. 
The  Governor  took  his  leave  of  General  Grant  on  board 
the  Ashuelot,  and,  as  he  left,  the  vessel  fired  a  salute  of  sev- 
enteen guns  in  his  honor,  with  the  British  flag  at  the  fore. 

General  Grant's  trip  along  the  coast  of  China  was  ex- 
ceptionally pleasant,  so  far  as  winds  and  waves  were  con- 
cerned. There  was  a  monsoon  blowing,  but  it  was  just 
enough  to  help  along  without  disturbing  the  sea.  Then 
it  was  a  pleasure  to  come  once  more  into  cooler  latitudes. 
Ever  since  they  left  Naples  they  had  been  under  the  sun, 
and  nearly  four  months'  battle  with  it  had  told  upon  them 
all.  It  was  a  luxury  to  tread  the  deck,  and  feel  a  cool 
breeze  blowing  from  the  north;  to  roll  yourself  in  a  blanket 
as  you  slept  on  deck;  to  look  out  warmer  clothing,  and 
feel  that  life  was  something  more  than  living  in  a  Turkish 
bath.     On  the  morning  of  the  13th  they  came  to  Swatow. 

Swatow  is  one  of  the  treaty  ports  thrown  open  to  for- 
eigners under  the  treaty  of  Lord  Elgin.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Hau.     The  entrance  to  the  river  is  striking  in 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  23I 

point  of  scenery,  and  as  they  came  in  siglit  of  the  town  all 
the  Chinese  forts  saluted,  and  the  shipping  in  the  harbor 
dressed.  C.  C.  Williams,  Consular  Agent,  came  on  board 
to  welcome  the  General,  and  in  his  company  he  landed,  and 
spent  an  hour  in  threadmg  the  old  Chinese  town.  The 
streets  were  narrow.  While  in  Swatow  the  Chinese  Gov- 
ernor called  in  state,  and  said  that  he  had  orders  from  the 
government  to  pay  all  possible  attentions  to  General  Grant. 
It  was  the  custom  of  the  country  in  making  these  calls  to 
bring  an  offering,  and,  as  nothing  is  more  useful  than  food, 
he  had  brought  a  live  sheep,  six  live  chickens,  six  <3ucks 
and  four  hams.  While  the  Governor  was  in  conference 
with  the  General,  the  animals  were  outside.  There  was 
nothing  for  the  General  to  do  but  to  accept  the  homely 
offering,  and  present  it  to  the  servants. 

General  Grant  visited  Amoy,  another  of  the  treaty 
ports  open  to  foreign  trade.  It  is  on  the  Island  of  Hea- 
mun,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dragon  River.  The  scenery,  as 
seen  in  approaching  the  island,  is  picturesque.  All  the  bat- 
teries fired  a  salute,  and  there  was  a  welcome  from  one  of 
the  United  States  men-of-war,  the  Ranger,  commanded 
by  Commander  Boyd.  Vice-Consul  Stevens  came  on 
boai'd,  and  welcomed  the  General  to  Amoy.  He  landed, 
and  strolled  through  the  Chinese  town,  which  was  very  old , 
and  dirty.  At  noon  there  was  a  large  luncheon  party,  at 
which  we  met  all  the  Consuls,  the  leading  citizens,  and  the 
commanders  of  the  Ashuelot  and  the  Ranger.  Among 
the  sfuests  was  Sir  Thomas  Wade,  the  British  Minister  to 
Pekin.  Mr.  Stevens  proposed  the  health  of  the  General 
in  a  complimentary  speech,  and  at  five  they  went  on  board 
the  Ranger  to  attend  a  reception.  The  Ranger,  under  the 
inspiration  of  the  officers,  was  transformed  into  a  fairy 
scene,  and  nothing  could  have  been  more  kind  and  hospita- 
ble than  the  captain  and  officers.  Mrs.  Boyd  assisted  her 
husband  in  entertaining  his  guests.     At  seven  o'clock,  as 


232  gexeral  v.  s.  grant's 

the  sun  was  going  down,  they  took  their  leave  of  the  brill- 
iant gathering  in  the  Ranger,  and  steamed  to  Shanghai. 
The  following  letters  were  exchanged  between  Gen- 
eral Grant  and  the  King  of  Siam,  the  King  of  Hawaii  and 
the  Viceroy  of  Canton: 

Grand  Palace,  Bangkok,  April  20,  1879. 
My  Dear  General  Grant: 

I  received  your  kind  telegram  on  leaving  Siam,  and 
was  very  much  pleased  to  hear  that  you  were  satisfied 
with  your  reception. 

Your  reception  was  not  all  I  could  have  wished,  for  I 
had  not  sufficient  notice  to  enable  me  to  jDrepare  much  that 
I  desired  to  prepare,  but  the  good  nature  of  Your  Excel- 
lency and  Mrs.  Grant  has  made  you  excuse  the  deficiencies. 
You  will  now  pass  on  to  wealthier  cities  and  more 
powerful  nations,  but  I  depend  on  your  not  forgetting  Siam, 
and  from  time  to  time  I  shall  write  to  you,  and  hope  to 
receive  a  few  words  in  replv. 

I  shall  certainly  never  forget  the  pleasure  your  visit 
has  given  me,  and  shall  highly  prize  the  friendships  thus 
inaugurated  with  Your  Excellency  and  Mrs.  Grant. 

I  send  my  kind  regards  to  JNIi-.  Borie,  wishing  him  long 
life,  health  and  happiness,  and  with  the  same  wish  to  your- 
-self  and  Mrs.  Grant  and  your  family, 
I  am  your  faithful  friend, 

Chulalonkorn,  King  of  Siam. 
To  General  Grant. 

United  States  Steamer  Ashuelot,      ) 
Nrar  Shanghai,  May  16,  1S79.    f 

To  His  Majesty  The  King  of  Siam. 

Dear  Sir:  Just  before  leaving  Hong  Kong  for 
Shanghai,  I  received  your  very  welcome  letter  of  the  20th 
of  April,  and  avail  myself  of  the  first  opportunity  of  reply- 
ing. I  cnn  assure  you  that  nothing  more  could  have  been 
done  by  Your  Majesty  and  all  those  about  you,  to  make  the 
visit  of  myself  and  party  pleasant  and  agreeable.  Every 
one  of  us  will  retain  the  most  pleasant  recollections  of  our 
visit  to  Siam,  and  of  the  cordial  reception  we  received 
from  yourself  and  all  with  whom  we  were  thrown  in  con- 
tact. 

I  shall  always  be  glad  to  hear  from  you,  and  to  hear  of 


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TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  233 

« 

the  prosperity  and  progress  of  the  beautiful  country  over 
which  you  rule  with  so  much  justice  and  thought  for  the 
ruled. 

My  party  are  all  well,  and  join  me  in  expression  of 
highest  regards  for  yourself  and  Cabinet,  and  wishes  for 
long  life,  health  and  happiness  to  all  of  you,  and  peace  and 
prosperity  to  Siam.       Your  friend, 

U.  S.  Grant. 

ToLANi  Hall,  Honolulu,  Hawaiian  Islands,  Feb.  iS,  1S79 

Dear  Sir:  The  public  newspapers  give  me  the  infor- 
mation that  you  are  at  j^resent  on  your  passage  to  the  East, 
and  are  intending  to  return  to  the  Unitd  States  across  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  When  I  was  in  the  United  States  during 
your  Presidency,  you  manifested  such  interest  in  the  pros- 
perity of  my  kingdom,  that  I  am  proud  to  think  it  will  not 
be  uninteresting  to  you  to  observe  the  j^i'ogress  we  have 
made,  and  the  general  state  of  the  country. 

I  will  not  remind  you  that  other  travelers  have  found 
the  natural  features  of  the  islands,  and  more  especially  their 
volcanic  phenomena,  interesting,  and  1  entertain  a  hope 
that  if  you  accept  the  invitation  which  I  now  tender  to  you 
to  visit  us,  as  a  guest  of  myself  and  this  nation,  on  your 
return  to  your  native  country,  such  a  visit  vs^ill  be  a  pleas- 
ant rememberance  to  you. 

For  myself,  it  will   afford  me  a  great  gratification  to 
receive  and  entertain  you,  and  my  people  will  be  pi-oud  to 
do  everything  in  their  power  to  make  your  visit  agreeable. 
I  am  your  friend,  Kalakua. 

To  General  U.  S.  Grant. 

United  States  Steamer  Ashuelot,  ) 
Near  Shanghai,  May  16,  1879.      [ 

His  Majesty,  King  Kalakaua. 

Dear  Sir :  On  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  Hong 
Kong  for  Shanghai,  China,  I  was  put  in  possession  of 
your  very  polite  invitation  of  the  iSth  of  February  for 
me  to  visit  your  kingdom,  and  to  be  the  guest  of  Your 
Majesty.  I  can  assure  you  that  it  would  afford  me  the 
greatest  pleasure  to  accept  your  invitation  if  I  could  do  so. 
I  have  always  felt  the  greatest  desire  to  visit  the  Hawaiian 
Islands,  and  cannot  say  positively  yet  that  I  may  not  be 
able  to  do  so.     But  it  will  be  impossible  for  me  to  give  a 


234  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRAXt's 

positive  answer  until  I  get  to  Japan  and  learn  of  the  run- 
ning of  the  vessels  between  Yokohama  and  Honolulu,  and 
between  the  latter  place  and  San  Francisco. 

I  shall  visit  Pekin  before  going  to  Japan,  and  remain 
in  the  latter  country  a  month  or  six  weeks.  As  soon  as  "it 
is  determined  whether  I  am  to  have  the  pleasure  of  visiting 
your  most  interesting  country  or  not,  I  will  inform  you. 
Hoping  that  I  may  be  able  to  go,     Your  friend, 

U.  S.  Grant. 
To  His  Excellency,  the  Late  President: 

It  has  been  a  high  honor  and  a  source  of  the  deepest 
satisfiiction  to  myself,  the  high  provincial  authorities  and 
the  gentry  and  people  of  Canton,  that  Your  Excellency, 
whom  we  have  so  long  desired  to  see,  has  been  so  good  as 
to  come  among  us. 

Upon  learning  from  you  of  your  early  departure,  while 
I  dared  not  interfere  to  delay  you,  I  had  hoped,  in  company 
with  my  associates,  to  present  my  humble  respects  at  the 
moment  of  3'our  leaving.  I  refrained  from  doing  so  in 
obedience  to  your  command. 

I  have  ventured  to  send  a  few  trifles  to  your  honored 
wife,  which  I  hope  she  will  be  so  kind  as  to  accept. 

I  trust  that  you  both  will  have  a  prosperous  journey 
throughout  all  your  way,  and  that  you  both  may  be  granted 
many  years  and  abundant  good.  Should  I  ever  be  honored 
by  my  sovereign  with  a  mission  abroad,  it  will  be  my  most 
devout  prayer  and   earnest  desire    that  I   may   meet  you 


again. 


I  respectfully  wish  you  the  fulness  of  peace. 

Liu  Kun. 

United  States  Steamer  Ashuelot,  } 
Near  Shanghai,  China,  May  16,  1S79.  ji" 
His  Excellency,  the.  Viceroy  of  Kwangtung  and  Kwanghai. 
Dear  Sir:  Before  leaving  Hong  Kong  for  more  ex- 
tended visits  through  the  Celestial  Empire,  I  was  placed  in 
possession  of  your  very  welcome  letter  giving  expression 
to  the  best  wishes  of  Your  Excellency  and  of  all  the  high 
officials  in  Canton  for  m3-self  and  mine.  Since  then  it  has 
been  my  good  fortune  to  visit  Swatow  and  Amoy,  both,  I 
understand,  under  Your  Excellency's  government,  and  have 
received  at  each  the  same  distinguished  reception  accorded 
at  Canton.    Myself  and  party  will  carry  with  us  from  China 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  235 

the  most  pleasant  recollections  of  our  visit  to  the  country- 
over  which  you  preside,  and  of  the  hospitalities  received  at 
your  hands. 

Mrs.  Grant  desires  to  thank  you  especially  for  the  beau- 
tiful specimens  of  Chinese  work  which  you  presented  to 
her.  With  the  best  wishes  of  myself  and  party  for  your 
health,  long  life  and  prosperity,  and  in  hopes  that  we  may 
meet  again,  I  am  your  friend, 

U.  S.  Grant. 

General  Grant's  welcome  at  Shanghai  was  a  fitting 
climax  to  the  extraordinary  reception  he  had  received  in 
China.  The  story  of  his  two-days'  residence  here  is  a 
story  of  festivals  and  pageantry,  culminating  in  the  cele- 
bration and  reception  by  the  Governor  and  Council.  As 
the  General  and  party  came  to  the  spot  selected  for  land- 
ing, the  banks  of  the  river  were  thronged  with  Chinamen, 
and  at  least  one  hundred  thousand  lined  the  bank. 

At  three  o'clock  precisely  the  barge  of  the  Ashuelot 
was  manned,  the  American  flag  wab  hoisted  at  the  bow, 
and  General  Grant,  accompanied  by  ]\Irs.  Grant,  Mr.  Borie, 
Colonel  Grant,  Mr.  Holcombe,  Acting  Minister  at  Pekin;, 
T^Irs.  Holcombe,  Consul-General  Bailey,  and  Dr.  Keating, 
embarked.  As  the  boat  slowly  pulled  toward  the  shore 
the  guns  of  the  Ashuelot  thundered  out  a  national  salute, 
while  the  other  men-of-war  manned  the  yards.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  boat  came  to  the  landing,  which  was  covered 
with  scarlet  cloth.  Mr.  Little,  Chairman  of  the  Municipal 
Council,  and  the  committee,  shook  hands  with  the  General, 
and  the  procession  marched  into  the  building.  As  General 
Grant  entered,  the  audience  rose  and  cheered  heartil3\  On 
reaching  the  seat  prepared  for  him  he  was  px^esented  to  the 
Chinese  Governor,  who  had  come  to  do  his  part  in  the  re- 
ception. The  Governor  was  accompanied  by  a  delegation 
of  mandarins  of  high  rank.  The  band  played  "  Hail, 
Columbia,"  and  after  the  music  and  cheering  ceased,  Mr^ 
Little  advanced  and  read  the  following  address: 


236  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

Shanghai,  May  17,  1879. 
To  General  U.  S.  Grant. 

Sir:  On  behalf  of  this  community  I  have  the  honor 
of  welcoming  you  to  Shanghai.  In  this  the  easternmost 
commercial  settlement  of  the  continent  the  lines  that  unite 
the  old  and  new  worlds  meet,  and  here  we  on  the  eastern 
edge  of  the  oldest  empire  in  the  world  appropriately  greet 
an  illustrious  representative  of  the  great  Republic  of  the 
New  World. 

Devoted  as  we  are  to  trade,  we  have  little  to  show  that 
is  of  interest  to  the  ordinary  traveler.  But  as  the  head  for 
two  periods  of  a  great  cosmopolitan,  commercial  state,  we 
trust  that  you  will  find  something  to  interest  you  in  this 
small  commercial  republic,  itself  as  cosmopolitan  as  the 
great  country  from  which  you  come. 

We  thank  you  for  coming  to  visit  us.  We  trust  that 
you  will  find  that  we  have  done  all  in  our  power  to  make 
your  visit  pleasant.  We  wish  for  you  a  future  as  happy 
and  distinguished  as  your  past,  and  that  after  you  leave  us 
you  will  remember  with  pleasure  this  little  band  of  self- 
governed  representatives  of  all  States,  united  in  peaceful 
pursuits,  and  furthering,  we  believe,  not  without  success, 
the  cause  of  progress  in  this  country. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  on  behalf  of  the  foreign 
community  of  Shanghai,  your  obedient  servant, 

R.  W.  Little, 
Chairman  of  the  Committee. 

After  a  moment's  pause,  General  Grant,  speaking  in  a 
low,  conversational  tone  of  voice,  said : 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  :  —  I  am  very  much  obliged 
to  you  for  the  hearty  welcome  which  you  have  paid  me, 
and  I  must  say  that  I  have  been  a  little  surprised,  and 
iigreeably  surprised.  I  have  now  been  a  shoi-t  time  in  the 
country  of  which  Shanghai  forms  so  important  a  part  in  a 
commercial  way,  and  I  have  seen  much  to  interest  me  and 
much  to  instruct  me.  I  wish  I  had  known  ten  years  ago 
what  I  have  lately  learned.  I  hope  to  carry  back  to  my 
country  a  report  of  all  I  have  seen  in  this  part  of  the  world, 
for  it  will  be  of  interest  and  possibly  of  great  use.  I  thank 
you  again  for  the  hearty  welcome  you  have  given  me." 


TOUR  AROUXD  THE  WORLD.  237 

The  speech  over,  there  were  other  presentations,  and 
General  Grant  was  escorted  to  his  carriage.  There  was  a 
guard  of  honor  composed  of  sailors  and  marines  from  the 
American  and  French  men-of-war,  and  the  Volunteer 
Rifles  of  Shanghai. 

On  Monday  night  General  Grant  went  to  the  house  of 
Mr.  Cameron  to  witness  a  torchlight  procession  and  illumi- 
nation in  his  honor.  The  town  had  been  agog  all  day  pre- 
paring for  the  illumination. 

The  two  occasions  on  which  Shanghai  had  exerted  herself 
to  welcome  and  honor  a  guest,  were  on  the  visits  of  the 
Dulve  of  Edinhureh  and  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis.  The 
display  in  honor  of  General  Grant  far  surpassed  these,  and 
what  made  it  so  agreeable  was  the  heartmess  with  which 
English,  Americans,  French,  Germans  and  Chinese  all 
united.  The  scene  as  the  General  drove  out  into  the  open 
street  was  bewildering  in  its  beauty.  Wherever  you  looked 
was  a  blaze  of  light  and  fire,  of  rockets  careering  in  the 
air,  of  Roman  lights  and  every  variety  of  fire.  The  ships 
in  the  harbor  were  a  blaze  of  color,  and  looked  as  if  they 
were  pieces  of  fireworks.  The  lines  of  the  masts,  the  rig- 
ging and  the  hulls  were  traced  in  flames.  The  Monocacy 
was  very  beautiful,  every  line  from  the  bow  to  the  topmast 
and  anchor  chain  hung  with  Japanese  lanterns.  This  grace- 
ful, blending  mass  of  color  thrown  upon  the  black  evenino- 
sky  was  majestic,  and  gave  an  idea  of  a  beauty  in  fire 
hitherto  unknown  to  the  visitors.  "  Never  before,"  said  the 
morning  journal  —  "has  there  been  such  a  blaze  of  gas 
and  candles  seen  in  Shansrhai." 

At  ten  the  General  returned  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Cameron,  and  from  there  reviewed  the  firemen's  procession. 
Each  engine  was  preceded  by  a  band,  which  played  Ameri- 
can airs.  After  the  procession  passed  and  repassed,  there 
was  a  reception  in  Mr.  Cameron's  house,  and  at  midnight 
the  General  drove  home  to  the  Consulate.      So  came  to  an 


/3S  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

-jnd  a  wonderful  day  —  one  of  the   most  wonderful  in  the 
history  of  General  Grant's  tour  around  the  world. 

As  the  Ashuclot  came  into  the  Peiho  River,  the  forts 
fired  twenty-one  guns,  and  all  the  troops  were  paraded.  A 
Chinese  gunboat  was  awaiting,  bearing  Judge  Denny,  our 
Consul,  and  Mr.  Dillon,  French  Consul  and  Dean  of  the 
Consular  corps.  As  General  Grant  and  party  came  near 
Tientsin  the  scene  was  imposing.  Wherever  they  passed 
n  fort  twenty-one  guns  were  fired.  All  the  junks  and  ves- 
sels were  dressed  in  bunting.  A  fleet  of  Chinese  gunboats 
formed  in  line,  and  each  vessel  manned  yards.  The  boom- 
ing of  the  cannon,  the  waving  of  the  flags,  the  manned 
yards,  the  multitude  that  lined  the  banks,  the  fleet  of  junks 
massed  together  and  covered  with  curious  lookers-on,  the 
stately  Ashuelot,  carrying  the  American  flag  at  the  fore, 
towering  high  above  the  slender  Chinese  vessels  and  an- 
swering salutes  gun  for  gun ;  the  noise,  the  smoke,  the  glit- 
ter of  arms,  the  blending  and  waving  of  banners  and  flags 
which  lined  the  forts  and  the  xugging  like  a  fringe  —  ali 
combined  to  form  one  of  tne  most  vivid  and  imposing 
pageants  of  their  journey.  The  General  stood  on  the 
quarter-deck,  with  Commander  Johnson,  Mr.  Holcombe, 
Judge  Denny  and  Mr.  Dillon,  making  acknowledgments 
by  raising  his  hat  as  he  passed  each  ship.  As  the}'  came 
near  the  landing,  the  yacht  of  the  Viceroy,  carrying  his 
flag,  steamed  toward  them,  and  as  soon  as  their  anchor 
found  its  place  hauled  alongside.  First  came  two  mandarins 
carrying  the  Viceroy's  card.  General  Grant  stood  at  the 
gangway,  accompanied  by  the  officers  of  the  ship,  and  as 
the  Viceroy  stepped  over  the  side  of  the  Ashuelot  the  yards 
were  manned  and  a  salute  was  fired.  Judge  Denny,  ad- 
vancing, met  the  Viceroy  and  presented  him  to  General 
Grant  as  the  great  soldier  and  statesman  of  China.  The 
Viceroy  presented  the  members  of  his  suite,  and  the  Gen- 
eral, taking  his  arm,  led  him  to  the  upper  deck,  where  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  239 

two  Generals  sat  in  conversation  for  some  time,  while  tea 
and  cigars  and  wine  were  passed  around  in  approved 
Chinese  fashion. 

The  great  Viceroy,  perhaps  to-day  the  most  powerful 
subject  in  China,  had  taken  the  deepest  interest  in  the  coming 
of  General  Grant.  He  was  of  the  same  age  as  the  Gen- 
eral. They  won  their  victories  at  the  same  time,  the  South- 
ern rebellion  ending  in  April,  the  Tacping  rebellion  in 
July,  1865.  While  General  Grant  was  making  his  progress 
in  India,  the  Viceroy  followed  his  movements,  and  had  all 
the  particulars  of  the  journey  translated.  As  soon  as  the 
General  reached  Hong  Kong,  our  Consul,  Judge  Denny, 
conveyed  a  welcome  from  the  Viceroy.  When  questions 
were  raised  as  to  the  reception  of  the  General  in  Tientsin, 
the  Viceroy  ended  the  matter  by  decianng  tnat  no  honor 
should  be  wanting  to  the  General,  and  that  he  himself 
would  be  the  first  Chinaman  to  greet  him  in  Tientsin  and 
welcome  him  to  the  chief  province  of  the  empire.  Between 
General  Grant  and  the  Viceroy  friendly  relations  grew  up, 
and  while  in  Tientsin  they  saw  a  great  deal  of  each  other. 
The  Viceroy  had  said  that  he  did  not  care  merely  to  look 
at,  or  even  to  make  his  acquaintance,  but  to  know  him  well 
and  talk  with  him.  The  Viceroy  is  known  ainong  the 
most  advanced  school  of  Chinese  statesmen,  anxious  to 
introduce  all  the  improvements  of  the  Vrestern  world,  to 
strengthen  and  develop  China.  This  subject  so  dear  to 
him  was  one  that  the  General  has,  whenever  he  has  met 
Chinese  statesmen,  trierl  to  impress  upon  their  minds — the 
necessity  of  developing  their  country,  and  of  doing  it  them- 
selves. 

The  General  formed  a  high  opinion  of  the  Viceroy 
as  a  statesman  of  resolute  and  far-?eeing  character.  This 
opinion  was  formed  after  many  conversations  —  official, 
ceremonial  and  personal.  The  visit  of  the  Viceroy  to  the 
General  was  returned  next  day  in  great  pomp.     There  was 


240  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT  S 

a  marine  guard  from  the  Ashuclot.  They  went  to  the 
viceregal  palace  in  the  Viceroy's  yacht,  and  as  they  steamed 
up  the  river  every  foot  of  ground,  every  spot  on  the  junks, 
w^as  covered  with  people.  At  the  landing,  troops  were 
drawn  up.  A  chair  lined  with  yellow  silk,  such  a  chair  as 
is  only  used  by  the  Emperor,  was  awaiting  the  General. 
As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  multitude  stood  expect- 
ant and  gazing,  and  they  went  to  the  palace  through  a  line 
of  troops,  who  stood  with  arms  at  a  present.  Amid  the 
firing  of  guns,  the  beating  of  gongs,  the  procession  slowly 
marched  to  the  palace  door.  The  Viceroy,  surrounded  by 
his  mandarins  and  attendants,  welcomed  the  General.  At 
the  close  of  the  mterview  General  Grant  and  the  Viceroy  sat 
for  a  photograph.  This  picture  Li-Hung  Chang  wished 
to  preserve  as  a  memento  of  the  General's  visit,  and  it  was 
taken  in  one  of  the  palace  rooms.  A  day  or  two  later  there 
was  a  ceremonial  dinner  given  in  a  temple.  The  hour  was 
noon,  and  the  Viceroy  invited  several  guests  to  meet  the 
General.  The  dinner  was  a  stupendous,  princely  affair, 
containing  all  the  best  points  of  Chinese  and  European 
cookery,  and,  although  the  hour  was  noon,  the  afternoon 
had  far  gone  when  it  came  to  an  end. 

Before  it  ended,  Mr.  Detring,  on  behalf  of  the  Viceroy, 
arose  and  read  this  speech : 

"Gentlemen:  It  has  given  me  great  pleasure  to 
welcome  you  as  my  guests  to-day,  more  especially  as  you 
aid  me  in  showing  honor  to  the  distinguished  man  who  is 
now  with  us.  General  Grant's  eminent  talents  as  a  sol- 
dier and  a  statesman,  and  his  popularity  while  chief  ruler 
of  a  great  country,  are  known  to  us  all.  I  think  it  may  be 
said  of  him  now,  as  it  was  said  of  Washington  a  century 
ago,  that  he  is  "first  in  war,  first  in  peace,  and  first  in  the 
hearts  of  his  countrymen."  His  fame,  and  the  admiration 
and  respect  it  excites,  are  not  confined  to  his  own  country, 
as  the  events  of  his  present  tour  around  the  world  will 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  24I 

prove,  and  China  should  not  be  thought  unwilling  to  wel- 
come such  a  visitor.  I  thank  the  General  for  the  honor  he 
has  conferred  upon  me.  I  thank  you  all,  gentlemen,  for 
the  pleasure  you  have  given  me  to-day,  and  I  now  ask  you 
to  join  me  in  drinking  the  health  of  General  Grant,  ana 
wishing  him  increasing  fame  and  prosperity." 

The  Viceroy  and  all  his  guests  arose  and  remained 
standing  while  Mr.  Detring  read  this  speech.  At  the  close, 
the  Viceroy  lifted  a  glass  of  wine,  and,  bowing  to  the  Gen- 
eral, drank  the  toast.     General  Grant  then  arose  and  said: 

"  Your  Excellency  and  Gentlemen  of  the 
Consular  Corps:  I  am  very  much  obliged  to  you  for 
the  welcome  I  have  received  in  Tientsin,  which  is  only  a 
repetition  of  the  kindness  shown  to  me  by  the  representa- 
tives of  all  nations  since  I  came  within  the  coasts  of  China. 
I  am  grateful  to  the  Viceroy  for  the  especial  consideration 
which  I  have  received  at  his  hands.  His  history  as  a  sol- 
dier and  statesman  of  the  Chinese  Empire  has  been  known 
to  me,  as  it  has  been  known  to  all  at  home  who  have  fol- 
lowed Chinese  affairs,  for  a  quarter  of  a  century.  I  am 
glad  to  meet  one  who  has  done  such  great  service  to  his 
country.  My  visit  to  China  has  been  full  of  interest.  I 
have  learned  a  great  deal  of  the  civilization,  the  manners, 
the  achievements,  and  the  industry  of  the  Chinese  people, 
and  I  shall  leave  the  country  with  feelings  of  friendship 
toward  them,  and  a  desire  that  they  may  be  brought  into 
relations  of  the  closest  commercial  alliance  and  intercourse 
with  the  other  nations.  I  trust  that  the  Viceroy  will  some 
time  find  it  in  his  power  to  visit  my  country,  when  I  shall 
be  proud  to  return,  as  far  as  I  can,  the  hospitality  I  have 
received  from  him.  Again  thanking  your  Excellency  for 
your  reception,  and  you,  gentlemen  of  the  Consular  corps, 
for  your  kindness,  I  ask  you  to  join  with  me  in  a  toast  to 
the  prosperity  of  China  and  the  health  of  the  Viceroy." 

When  this  speech  was  ended  there  was  tea,  and  then 
16 


242  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

came  cigars.  Tlie  \'iceroy  had  arranged  for  a  photograph 
of  the  whole  tlinner  party.  So  their  portraits  were  taken 
in  the  room  where  they  had  dined,  the  Viceroy  and  the 
General  sitting  in  the  middle,  beside  a  small  tea  table.  On 
the  side  of  the  General  were  the  European,  on  that  of  the 
Viceroy  the  Chinese,  members  of  the  party.  This  func- 
tion over,  they  returned  to  their  yacht  amid  the  same  cere- 
monies as  those  which  attended  their  coming,  and  steamed 
back  to  the  Consulate,  the  river  still  lined  with  thousands 
of  Chinamen. 

There  was  2ifetc  at  the  French  Consulate  —  it  %vas  made 
brilliant  by  a  display  of  fireworks  and  also  of  jugglery; 
the  Viceroy,  the  General  and  the  ladies  of  the  party  sitting 
on  the  balcony  and  watching  the  performers  ;  at  midnight 
theyc/c  ended,  and,  considering  the  small  colony  and  the 
resources  possible  to  so  limited  a  company,  was  a  complete 
success.  After  enjoying  a  delightful  series  of  receptions, 
dinners  and  y^/c^,  the  General  and  party  bid  farewell  to 
Tientsin,  and  embarked  m  a  large,  clumsy  boat,  called  <x 
mandarin's  boat,  for  Pekin,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  Tientsin.  After  a  tiresome  journey,  on  the  third 
day  their  boats  tied  up  to  the  bank  at  the  village  of  Tung 
Chow.  At  this  point  the  party  were  carried  in  chairs  to 
Pekin,  arriving  at  midday.  After  a  severe  and  uncomfort- 
able i-ide  of  five  hours  they  entered  the  Legation,  and  met 
a  ofrateful  and  gracious  welcome. 

On  the  evening  of  their  arrival  the  American  residents 
in  Pekin  called  in  a  body  on  the  General  to  welcome  him 
and  read  an  address.  Dinner  over,  the  General  and  party 
entered  the  Legation  parlors  and  were  presented  to  the 
small  colony  of  the  favored  people  who  have  pitched  their 
tents  in  Pekin.  The  members  of  this  colony  are  mission- 
aries, members  of  the  customs  staff,  diplomatists  and  one  or 
two  who  have  claims  or  schemes  for  the  consideration  of  the 
Chinese  government.     After  being  introduced  to  the  Gen- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  243 

eral  and  party,  Dr.  Martin,  the  President  of  the  Chinese 
EngHsh  University,  stepped  forward  and  read  the  following 
address : 

"  Sir  :  Twenty  years  ago  the  American  flag  for  the 
first  time  entered  the  gates  of  this  ancient  capital.  For 
the  greater  part  of  that  time  your  countrymen  have  been 
residing  here  under  its  protecting  folds,  and  it  is  with  feel- 
ings of  no  ordinary  type  that  we  gather  ourselves  beneath 
its  shadow  this  day  to  welcome  your  arrival ;  because  to 
you,  sir,  under  God,  it  is  due  that  its  azure  field  had  not 
been  rent  in  fragments  and  its  golden  stars  scattered  to  the 
winds  of  heaven.  Having  borne  that  banner  through  a 
career  of  victory  which  finds  few  parallels  in  the  page  of 
history,  it  was  your  high  privilege  to  gather  around  it  in 
a  new  cemented  union  the  long  discordant  members  of  our 
national  family.  Occupying  the  most  exalted  position  to 
which  It  was  possible  for  you  to  be  elevated  by  the  voice 
of  a  grateful  people^  your  strength  was  in  the  justice  and 
moderation  of  your  administration,  a  force  more  potent 
than  that  of  armed  cohorts.  After  conferring-  on  our 
country  these  inestimable  benefits,  as  its  leader  in  war  and 
its  guide  in  the  paths  of  peace,  we  reflect  with  pride  that 
you  have  shown  the  world  how  a  great  man  can  descend 
from  a  loftv  station  and  vet  carry  with  him  the  homage  of 
his  people  and  the  admiration  of  mankind.  As  you  travel 
from  land  to  land,  everywhere  welcomed  as  the  citizen  of 
a  wider  commonwealth  than  that  of  our  native  country,  we 
cannot  forget  that  your  visits  to  their  shores  possess  an  in- 
ternational character  of  which  it  is  impossible  to  divest 
them.  You  are  honored  as  the  highest  representative  of 
our  country  who  has  ever  gone  beyond  her  borders,  and 
America  is  the  more  respected  for  having  given  birth  to 
such  a  son.  Your  presence  here  to-day  directs  the  atten- 
tion of  this  venerable  empire  to  the  great  republic  from 
which  you  come.     It  will  also  have  the  eflfect  of  turning 


244  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

the  eyes  of  our  countrymen  toward  the  teeming  millions  of 
Eastern  Asia;  and  fervently  do  we  trust  that  it  will  help 
to  impress  them  with  the  obligations  of  justice  and  human- 
ity in  tlacir  dealings  with  the  people  of  China.  Your 
antecedents,  sir,  leave  us  in  no  doubt  as  to  the  policy  that 
would  meet  your  approval.  Hoping  that  your  influence 
may  contribute  to  the  adjustment  of  difficulties  which 
threaten  to  react  so  disastrously  on  American  interests  in 
China,  and  that  thereby  you  will  add  another  to  the  many 
laurels  that  crown  your  brow,  we  hail  your  visit  as  both  op- 
portune and  auspicious,  and  again  with  one  heart  we  bid 
you  welcome  to  the  capital  of  China. 

"W.  A.  P.  Martin,  H.  Blodget,  D.  C.  McCoy,  H.  B. 
Morse,  C.  C.  Moreno,  J.  H.  Pyke,  W.  F.  Walker,  H.  H. 
Lowry,  J.  H.  Roberts,  W.  C.  Noble,  Chester  Holcombe. 
^'Pekin,  June   3,  /<5'79." 

The  General,  in  a  quiet,  conversational  tone,  said  he  was 
always  glad  to  meet  his  fellow  countrymen,  and  the  kind 
words  in  which  he  had  been  welcomed  added  to  the  pleas- 
ure which  such  a  meeting  afforded  in  Pekin.  The  Ameri- 
cans were  a  wonderful  people,  he  said,  smiling,  for  you 
found  them  everywhere,  even  here  in  this  distant  and  in- 
accessible cajoital.  He  was  especially  pleased  with  the 
allusion  in  the  address  to  the  fact  that  in  America  a  career 
was  possible  to  the  humblest  statioii  in  life.  His  own  career 
was  one  of  the  best  examples  of  the  possibilities  open  to 
any  man  and  every  man  at  home.  That  feature  in  America 
he  was  proud  to  recognize,  for  it  was  one  of  the  golden 
principles  of  our  government.  The  General  again  thanked 
the  delegation  for  their  kindness,  wished  them  all  pros- 
perity in  their  labors  in  China,  and  a  happy  return  to  their 
homes,  where  he  hoped  some  day  to  meet  them. 

Within  an  hour  after  the  General's  arrival,  he  was 
waited  upon  by  the  members  of  the  Cabinet,  who  came  in 
a  body,  accompanied  by  the  military  and  civil  Governors  of 


TOUR'  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  245 

Pekin.  These  are  the  highest  officials  in  China,  men  of 
grace  and  stately  demeanor.  They  were  received  in  Chi- 
nese fashion,  seated  around  a  table  covered  with  sweet- 
meats, and  served  with  tea.  The  first  Secretary  brought 
with  him  the  card  of  Prince  Kung,  the  Prince  Regent  of 
the  Empire,  and  said  that  His  Imperial  Highness  had 
charged  him  to  present  all  kind  wishes  to  General  Grant, 
and  to  express  the  hope  that  the  trip  in  China  had  been 
pleasant.  The  Secretary  also  said  that,  as  soon  as  the 
Prince  Regent  heard  from  the  Chinese  Minister  in  Paris 
that  General  Grant  was  coming  to  China,  he  sent  orders  to 
the  officials  to  receive  him  with  due  honor.  The  General 
said  that  he  had  received  nothing  but  honor  and  courtesy 
from  China,  and  this  answer  pleased  the  Secretary,  who  said 
he  would  be  hapj^y  to  carry  it  to  the  Prince  Regent. 

General  Grant  did  not  ask  an  audience  of  the  Emperor. 
The  Emperor  is  a  child  seven  years  of  age,  at  his  books, 
not  In  good  health,  and  under  the  care  of  two  old  ladies, 
called  the  Empresses.  When  the  Chinese  Minister  in  Paris 
spoke  to  General  Grant  about  audience,  and  his  regret  that 
the  sovereign  of  China  was  not  of  age  that  he  might  per- 
sonally entertain  the  ex-President,  the  General  said  he 
hoped  no  question  of  audience  would  be  raised.  He  had 
no  personal  curiosity  to  see  the  Emperor,  and  there  could 
be  no  useful  object  in  conversing  with  a  child. 

As  soon  as  General  Grant  arrived  at  Pekin,  he  was 
met  by  the  Secretary  of  State,  who  brought  the  card  of 
Prince  Kung,  and  said  His  Imperial  Highness  v^^ould  be 
glad  to  see  General  Grant  at  any  time.  The  General  named 
the  succeeding  day,  at  three.  The  General  and  party  left  the 
Legation  at  half  past  two. 

The  way  to  the  Yamen  was  over  dirty  roads,  and  through 
a  disagreeable  part  of  ;the  town,  the  day  being  warm.  When 
they  came  to  the  court-yard  of  the  Yamen,  the  Secretaries 
and  a  group  of  mandarins  received  the  General   and  his 


246  GENERAL    U.    S.    GKANl'S 

party,  and  escorted  them  into  the  inner  court.  Prince 
Kung,  who  was  standing  at  the  door,  with  a  group  of  high 
officers,  advanced  and  sakited  the  General,  and  said  a  few 
words  of  welcome,  which  were  translated  by  Mr.  Hoi- 
combe,  the  acting  Minister. 

The  Prince  saluted  General  Grant  in  Tartar  fashion,, 
looking  at  him  for  a  moment  with  an  earnest,  curious  gaze, 
like  one  who  had  formed  an  idea  of  some  kind  and  was 
anxious  to  see  how  far  his  ideal  had  been  realized.  The 
sun  was  beating  down,  and  the  party  passed  into  a  large, 
plainly  furnished  room,  where  was  a  table  laden  w^ith  Chi- 
nese food.  The  Prince,  sitting  down  at  the  centre,  gave 
General  Grant  the  seat  at  his  left,  the  post  of  honor  in 
China.  He  then  took  up  the  cards,  one  by  one,  which  had 
been  written  in  Chinese  characters  on  red  paper,  and  asked 
Mr.  Holcombe  for  the  name  and  station  of  each  member 
of  General  Grant's  suite. 

As  j^rinces  go,  few  are  more  celebrated  than  Prince 
Kung.  He  is  a  Prince  of  the  imperial  house  of  China, 
brother  of  the  late  Emperor  and  luicle  of  the  present.  In 
appearance  the  Prince  is  of  middle  stature,  with  a  sharp, 
narrow  face,  a  high  forehead  —  made  more  prominent  by 
the  Chinese  custom  of  shaving  the  forehead  —  and  a 
changing,  evanescent  expression  of  countenance.  He  has 
been  at  the  head  of  the  Chinese  government  since  the 
English  invasion  and  the  burning  of  the  Summer  Palace. 
He  was  the  only  Prince  who  remained  at  his  post  at  that 
time,  and  consequently  when  the  peace  came  it  devolved 
upon  him  to  make  it.  This  negotiation  gave  him  a 
European  celebrity,  and  a  knowledge  of  Europeans  that 
was  of  advantage.  European  powers  have  preferred  to 
keep  in  power  a  prince  with  whom  they  have  made 
treaties  before.  In  the  politics  of  China,  Prince  Kung  has 
shown  courage  and  ability.  When  the  Emperor,  his 
brother,  died,  in  1861,  a  council  was  formed  composed  of 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  247 

princes  and  noblemen  of  high  rank.  This  council  claimed 
to  sit  by  the  will  of  the  deceased  Emperor.  The  inspiring 
element  was  hostility  to  foreigners.  Between  this  Regency 
and  the  Prince  there  was  war.  The  Emperor  was  a 
child  —  his  own  nephew  — just  as  the  present  Emperor  is  a 
child.  Suddenly  a  decree  coming  from  the  child-Emperor 
was  read,  dismissing  the  Regency,  making  the  Dowager 
Empress  Regent,  and  giving  the  power  to  Prince  Kung. 
This  decree  Prince  Kung  enforced  with  vigor,  decision 
and  success.  He  arrested  the  leading  members  of  the 
Regency,  charged  them  with  having  forged  the  will  under 
which  they  claimed  the  Regency,  and  sentenced  three  of 
them  to  death.  Two  of  the  regents  were  permitted  to 
commit  suicide,  but  the  other  was  beheaded.  From  that 
day,  under  the  Empresses,  Prince  Kung  has  been  the  ruler 
of  China. 

General  Grant  could  not  remain  long  enough  in  the 
Yamen  to  finish  the  dinner,  as  he  had  an  engagement  to 
visit  the  college  for  the  teaching  of  an  English  education 
to  young  Chinese.  This  institution  is  under  the  direction 
of  Dr.  Martin,  an  American,  and  the  buildings  adjoin  the 
Yamen.  Consequently,  on  taking  leave  of  the  Prince, 
who  said  he  would  call  and  see  the  General  at  the  Lega- 
tion, they  walked  a  few  steps,  and  were  escorted  into  the 
classroom  of  the  College.  Doctor  Alartin  presented  Gen- 
eral Grant  to  the  students  and  professors,  and  one  of  the 
students  read  the  following  address: 

"General  U.  S.  Grant,  ex  President  of  the  United  States: 
"Sir:  We  have  long  heard  your  name,  but  never 
dreamed  that  we  would  have  an  opportunity  to  look  on 
your  face.  Formerly  the  people  of  your  Southern  States 
rebelled  against  your  government  and  nearly  obtained  pos- 
session of  the  land,  but,  through  your  ability  in  leading  the 
national  forces,  the  rebel  chief  was  captured  and  the  coun- 
try tranquilized.     Having  commanded  a  million  of  men 


248  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

and  survived  a  hundred  battles,  your  merit  was  recognized 
as  the  highest  in  your  own  land,  and  your  name  became 
known  in  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  Raised  to  the 
Presidency  by  the  voice  of  a  grateful  people,  you  laid 
aside  the  arts  of  war  and  sought  only  to  achieve  the  victo- 
ries of  peace.  The  people  enjoyed  tranquility,  commerce 
flourished,  manufactures  revived,  and  the  whole  nation 
daily  became  more  wealthy  and  powerful.  Your  achieve- 
ments as  a  civil  ruler  are  equally  great  with  your  military 
triumphs.  Now  that  you  have  resigned  the  Presidency, 
you  employ  your  leisure  in  visiting  different  parts  of  the 
world,  and  the  people  of  all  nations  and  all  ranks  welcome 
your  arrival.  It  requires  a  fame  like  yours  to  produce 
effects  like  these.  We,  the  students  of  this  college,  are 
very  limited  in  our  attainments,  but  all  men  love  the  wise 
and  respect  the  virtuous.  We,  therefore,  feel  honored  by 
this  opportunity  of  standing  in  your  presence.  It  is  our 
sincere  hope  that  another  term  of  the  Presidency  may  come 
to  you,  not  only  that  your  own  nation  may  be  benefited, 
but  that  our  countrymen  resident  in  America  may  enjoy 
the  blessings  of  your  protection. 

"  Wang  Fengtsar,  tutor  in  Mathematics. 

"Wen  Hsii,  tutor  in  English. 

"Na  San,  tutor  in  English. 
"On  behalf  of  the  students  of  Tunguon  College. 
*'  Kvjang  Sii,  ^y.  4.  m.  16  d. — June  £,  iS'jg.^'' 

The  General,  in  response,  said: 

"  Gentlemen  :  I  am  much  obliged  to  you  for  your 
welcome  and  for  the  compliments  you  pay  me.  I  am  glad 
to  meet  you  and  see  in  the  capital  of  this  vast  and  ancient 
empire  an  institution  of  learning  based  upon  English 
principles,  and  in  which  you  can  learn  the  English 
language.  I  have  been  struck  with  nothing  so  much  in 
my  tour  around  the  world  as  with  the  fact  that  the  progress 
of  civilization  —  of  our  modern  civilization — is  marked  by 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  249 

the  progress  of  the  EngHsh  tongue.  I  rejoice  in  this  fact, 
and  I  rejoice  in  your  efforts  to  attain  a  knowledge  of  En- 
glish speech  and  all  that  such  a  knowledge  must  convey. 
You  have  my  warmest  wishes  for  your  success  in  this  and 
in  all  your  undertakings,  and  my  renewed  thanks  for  the 
honor  you  have  shown  me." 

Prince  Kung  Avas  punctual  In  his  return  of  the  call  of 
'General  Grant.  He  came  to  the  Legation  in  his  chair,  and 
was  received  by  General  Grant  in  the  parlors  of  the  Lega- 
tion. Several  officers  from  the  Richmond  happened  to  be 
in  Pekin  on  a  holiday,  and  the  General  invited  them,  as 
well  as  the  officers  of  the  Ashuelot,  who  were  at  the  Lega- 
tion, to  receive  the  Prince.  As  all  the  officers  were  in  full 
uniform,  the  reception  of  the  Prince  became  almost  an  Im- 
posing affair.  The  Prince  was  accompanied  by  the  Grand 
Secretaries,  and,  as  soon  as  he  was  presented  to  the  mem- 
bers of  the  General's  party,  he  was  led  into  the  dining- 
room,  and  they  all  sat  around  a  table,  and  were  given  tea 
and  sweetmeats  and  champagne.  During  this  visit  there 
occurred  a  remarkable  conversation,  w^hich  may  not  be 
without  Its  effect  upon  the  politics  of  the  East.  The  gen- 
eral features  of  this  conversation  were  no  less  than  a  prop- 
osition to  utilize  the  services  of  General  Grant  as  a  peace- 
maker. 

In  the  form  of  asking  General  Grant's  "  advice,"  and 
under  cover  of  an  anxiety  to  confer  with  him,  and  with  a 
graceful  apology  for  talking  business  to  a  visitor  out  of  the 
harness,  this  adroit  dijDlomatist  engaged  in  conversation 
on  the  subject  of  the  seizure  of  the  Loochoo  Islands  by 
Japan,  and  the  consequent  disturbance  of  friendly  relations 
between  Japan  and  China.  "  I  feel  that  I  should  apologize 
even  for  the  reference,"  said  the  Prince,  "which  I  would 
not  have  ventured  upon,  but  for  our  conviction  that  one  who 
has  had  so  high  a  place  in  determining  the  affairs  of  the 
world   can  have  no  higher  Interest  than  that  of  furthering 


250  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

peace  and  justice."  There  can  be  no  handsomer  way  than, 
this  to  compel  attention  and  demand  assistance;  and,  when 
one  is  thus  pressed  by  a  man  of  Prince  Kung's  dignity — by 
the  ruler  of  the  greatest  aggregation  of  human  creatures  of 
which  history  has  any  record  —  the  generous  mind  perceives 
that  a  grand  condescension  thus  presented  as  a  request  can- 
not be  put  aside.  General  Grant's  own  succinct  statement 
of  the  spirit  of  the  foreign  policy  of  the  American  govern- 
ment was  also  such  as  to  exhibit  his  sympathy  with  this 
fine  conception,  that  a  desire  to  aid  the  progress  of  justice 
in  the  world  should  be  the  first  interest  of  a  gentleman  in 
whatever  circumstances  he  might  be  called  upon  —  a  senti- 
ment of  knight  errantry  in  statesmanship.  Our  foreign 
policy,  the  General  said,  is  made  up  of  "fair  play,  con- 
sideration for  the  rights  of  others,  respect  for  international 
law,"  which  is  a  handy  adaptation  to  national  circumstances 
of  the  three  points  laid  down  by  Justinian's  lawyers  as 
sufficient  to  properly  regulate  every  human  life  —  '•'•ho?ieste 
vlvere^  alterinn  non  Icedere^  suuin  ciiique  tribtiereP  Between 
two  men  of  great  experience,  accustomed  to  deal  in  the  great 
concerns  of  huinan  life,  and  whose  minds  have  taken  color 
from  their  great  functions,  it  is  not  strange  to  find  this 
ready  sympathy  on  such  a  topic,  and  the  world  will  not  be 
astonished  to  hear  that  General  Grant  straightforwardly 
said:  "I  told  the  Viceroy  at  Tientsin  that  everything  I 
could  do  in  the  interest  of  peace  was  my  duty  and  my  pleas- 
ure.    I  can  conceive  of  no  higher  office  for  any  man." 

The  Prince,  when  he  had  finished  his  conversation, 
drew  toward  him  a  glass  of  champagne,  and,  addressing 
Mr.  Holcombe,  said  he  wished  to  again  express  to  Gen- 
eral Grant  the  honor  felt  by  the  Chinese  government  at 
having  received  this  visit.  He  made  special  inquiries  as  to 
when  the  General  would  leave,  the  hour  of  his  departure, 
the  ways  and  periods  of  his  journey.  He  asked  whether 
there  was  anything  wanting  to  complete  the  happiness  of 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  25 1 

the  General,  or  show  the  honor  in  which  he  had  been  held 
by  China.  In  taking  his  leave,  he  wished  to  drink  espe- 
cially the  health  of  General  Grant,  to  wish  him  a  prosper- 
ous voyage,  and  long  and  honorable  years  on  his  return 
home.  This  sentiment  the  General  returned,  and,  rising, 
led  the  way  to  the  door,  where  the  chair  of  the  Prince  and 
the  bearers  were  in  waitinsf.  The  other  Ministers  accom- 
panied  the  Prince,  and,  on  taking  leave,  saluted  the  Gen- 
eral in  the  ceremonious  Chinese  style.  The  Prince  entered 
his  chair,  and  was  snatched  ujo  and  carried  away  by  his 
bearers,  the  guard  hurriedly  mounting  and  riding  after. 

General  Grant  and  party  returned  to  Tientsin  by  boat, 
and  immediately  upon  his  landing  received  a  message  from 
the  Viceroy  that  he  was  on  his  way  to  call.  The  General 
received  the  Viceroy  at  the  house  of  Consul  Denny.  After 
a  warm  welcome,  together  they  passed  into  an  inner  room 
and  received  tea  and  sweetmeats  in  Chinese  fashion.  The 
Viceroy  had  received  instructions  from  the  Prince  Regent 
to  continue  the  conversation  with  General  Grant  on  the 
matter  of  the  issue  with  Japan.  After  a  long  and  intensely 
interesting  conversation,  and  a  thorough  analysis  of  the 
matters  at  issue,  the  Viceroy  pressed  every  point  to  influence 
the  General  to  act  as  mediator,  laying  special  stress  upon 
the  name  and  influence  of  General  Grant.  The  General 
thought  it  was  a  dijDlomatic  question,  and  could  be  settled 
through  the  good  oflices  of  ministers  of  other  nations. 
The  Viceroy  claimed  that  it  ^vas  not  a  diplomatic  question, 
as  Japan  had  refused  to  notice  an}-  communication  froni 
China;  consequently  there  was  no  chance  of  reaching  a 
solution  by  the  ordinary  inethods  of  diplomacy.  How  can 
you  talk  to  ministers  and  governments  about  matters  which 
they  will  not  discuss?  But  when  a  man  like  General  Granl 
comes  to  China  and  Jaj^an,  he  comes  with  an  authorit}» 
which  gives  him  power  to  make  peace.  In  the  interest  of 
peace,  China  asks  the  General  to  interest  himself.     Chint 


253  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

cannot  consent  to  the  position  Japan  has  taken.  On  that 
point  there  is  no  indecision  in  tlie  councils  of  the  govern- 
ment. The  Viceroy  had  no  fear  of  Japan  or  of  the  con- 
sequences of  any  conflict  which  Japan  would  force  upon 
China. 

General  Grant  said  his  hope  and  belief  were  that  the 
difficulty  would  end  peacefully  and  honorably.  He  appre- 
ciated the  compliment  paid  him  by  the  Chinese  govern- 
ment. The  Viceroy  and  Prince  Kung  overrated  his  power, 
but  not  his  wish,  to  preserve  peace,  and  especially  to  prevent 
such  a  deplorable  thing  as  a  war  between  China  and  Japan. 
When  he  reached  Japan  he  would  confer  with  Mr.  Bing- 
ham and  see  how  the  matter  stood.  He  would  study  the 
Japanese  case  as  carefully  as  he  proposed  studying  the 
Chinese  case.  He  would,  if  possible,  confer  with  the  Jap- 
anese authorities.  What  his  opinion  would  be  when  he 
heard  both  sides  he  could  not  anticipate.  If  the  question 
took  such  a  shape  that,  with  advantage  to  the  cause  of  peace 
and  without  interfering  with  the  wishes  of  his  own  gov- 
ernment, he  could  advise  or  aid  in  a  solution,  he  v\^ould  be 
happy,  and,  as  he  remarked  to  Prince  Kung,  this  happiness 
would  not  be  diminished  if  in  doing  so  his  action  did  not 
disappoint  the  Chinese  government.  So  came  to  an  end 
an  interesting  and  extraordinary  conversation. 

.  Pleasant,  notably,  were  General  Grant  and  party's  rela- 
tions with  the  great  Viceroy,  whose  kindness  seemed  to 
grow  with  every  hour,  and  to  tax  itself  for  new  forms  in 
which  to  form  expression.  Li-Hung  Chang's  reception  of 
General  Grant  was  as  notable  an  event  in  the  utter  setting 
aside  of  precedents  and  traditions  as  can  be  found  in  the 
recent  history  of  China.  It  required  a  great  man,  who 
could  afford  to  be  progressive  and  independent,  to  do  it. 

There  was  probably  nothing  more  notable  than  the  en- 
tertainment given  to  Mrs.  Grant  bv  the  wife  of  the  Vice- 
roy,  on  the  last  night  of  the  General's  stay  in   Tientsin. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  253 

The  principal  European  ladies  in  the  colony  were  invited. 
Some  of  these  ladies  had  lived  in  Tientsin  for  years,  and 
had  never  seen  the  wife  of  the  Viceroy — had  never  seen 
him  except  through  the  blinds  of  the  window  of  his  chair. 
The  announcement  that  the  Viceroy  had  really  invited 
Mrs.  Grant  to  meet  his  wife,  and  European  ladies  to  be  in 
the  company,  was  even  a  more  transcendent  event  than  the 
presence  of  General  Grant.  Society  rang  with  a  discus- 
sion of  the  cjuestion  which,  since  Mother  Eve  introduced  it 
to  the  attention  of  her  husband,  has  been  the  absorbing 
theme  of  civilization  —  what  shall  we  wear?  The  ques- 
tion was  finally  decided  in  favor  of  the  resources  of  civiliza- 
tion. The  ladies  went  in  all  the  glory  of  French  fashion 
and  taste.  They  came  back  from  the  viceregal  din- 
ner at  about  eleven  at  night,  and  General  Grant  and  party 
went  immediately  on  board  the  Ashuelot.  Here  the  fare- 
wells to  kind  friends  were  spoken,  and  it  was  with  sincere 
regret  that  they  said  farewell.  The  Viceroy  had  sent  word 
that  he  would  not  take  his  leave  of  General  Grant  until  he 
was  on  the  border  of  his  dominions  and  out  at  sea.  He 
had  gone  on  ahead  in  his  yacht,  and,  with  a  fleet  of  gun- 
boats, would  await  the  General  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  accompany  him  on  board  the  Richmond.  Orders  had 
been  gfiven  that  the  forts  should  fire  salutes,  and  that  the 
troops  should  parade,  and  the  vessels  dress  with  flags. 
About  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  Ashuelot  came 
up  with  the  viceregal  fleet,  at  anchor  under  the  guns  of 
the  Waku  forts.  As  they  passed,  every  vessel  manned 
yards,  and  all  their  guns  and  the  guns  of  the  fort  thundered 
a  farewell.  Three  miles  out  the  Richmond  was  sighted, 
and  the  Ashuelot  steamed  direct  toward  her,  and  in  a  short 
time  the  Ashuelot  swung  around  amid  the  thunder  of  the 
guns  of  the  Richmond.  At  noon  the  General  passed  over 
the  sides  of  the  Richmond,  and  was  received  by  another 


254  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

salute.  After  the  General  had  been  received,  the  ship's 
barge  was  sent  to  the  Viceroy's  boat,  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes returned  with  Li-Hunsr  Chansf.  General  Grant  re- 
ceived  the  Viceroy,  and  again  the  yards  were  manned,  and 
a  salute  of  nineteen  guns  was  fired. 

The  Viceroy  and  his  suite  were  shown  into  the  cabin. 
Tea  was  served,  and,  Li-Hung  Chang  having  expressed  a 
desire  to  see  the  vessel,  he  was  taken  into  every  part,  gave 
its  whole  arrangement,  and  especially  the  guns,  a  minute 
ins^Dection.  This  lasted  for  an  hour,  and  the  Vicei'oy  re- 
turned to  the  cabin  to  take  his  leave.  He  seemed  loath  to 
go,  and  remained  in  conversation  for  some  time.  General 
Grant  expressed  his  deep  sense  of  the  honor  which  had 
been  done  him,  his  pleasure  at  having  met  the  Viceroy. 
He  urged  the  Viceroy  to  make  a  visit  to  the  United  States, 
and  in  a  few  earnest  phrases  repeated  his  hope  that  the 
statesmen  of  China  would  persevere  in  a  policy  which 
brought  them  nearer  to  our  civilization.  The  Viceroy  was 
friendly,  ahnost  aflTcctionate.  He  hoped  that  General 
Grant  would  not  forget  nun;  mat  he  would  like  to  meet 
the  General  now  and  then,  and  if  China  needed  the  Gen- 
eral's counsel  he  would  send  it.  He  feared  he  could  not 
visit  foreign  lands,  and  regretted  that  he  had  not  done  so 
in  earlier  years.  He  spoke  of  the  friendship  of  the  United 
States  as  dear  to  China,  and  again  commended  to  the  Gen- 
eral and  the  American  people  the  Chinese  who  had  gone 
to  America.  It  made  his  heart  sore  to  hear  of  their  ill 
usage,  and  he  depended  upon  the  justice  and  honor  of  our 
government  for  their  protection.  He  again  alluded  to  the 
Loochoo  question  with  Japan,  and  begged  General  Grant 
would  speak  to  the  Japanese  Emperor,  and  in  securing  jus- 
tice remove  a  cloud  from  Asia  which  threw  an  ominous 
shadow  over  the  East.  The  General  bade  the  Viceroy  fare- 
well, and  said  he  would  not  forget  what  had  been  said,  and 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  3 


:)D 


that  he  would  always  think  of  the  Viceroy  with  friendship 
and  esteem.  So  they  parted,  Li-Hung  Chang  departing 
ainid  the  roar  of  our  cannon  and  the  manning  of  the 
yards,  while  the  Richmond  slowly  pushed  her  prow  into 
the  rippling  waves  and  steamed  along  to  Japan. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


GENERAL  GRANT  IN  JAPAN. 

General  Grant  and  party  arrived  at  Nagasaki  on  June 
21,  on  the  United  States  steamer  Richmond,  accompanied 
by  the  Ashuelot,  the  latter  bringing  Judge  Denny,  Consul 
at  Tientsin,  and  other  friends  from  China.  There  was  no 
formal  demonstration  by  foreign  residents,  further  than  an 
address  of  welcome  by  the  committee  of  thirteen,  chosen 
to  represent  all  alien  nationalities.  Frequent  entertainments 
were  given  by  the  Japanese.  ^ 

The  Governor  of  the  province  gave  a  state  dinner  on 
the  evening  of  the  23d  of  June,  served  in  French  fashion; 
one  that  in  its  details  would  have  done  no  discredit  to  the 
restaurants  in  Paris.  To  this  dinner  the  Governor  asked 
Captain  Benham,  of  the  Richmond;  Commander  Johnson, 
of  the  Ashuelot,  and  Lieutenant-Commander  Clarke.  At 
the  close.  His  Excellency  Utsumi  Tadakatsu  arose  and 
said : 

"  General  Grant  and  Gentlemen:  After  a  two- 
years'  tour  through  many  lands,  Nagasaki  has  been  honored 
by  a  visit  from  the  ex-President  of  the  United  States. 
Nagasaki  is  situated  on  the  western  shore  of  this  Empire, 
and  how  fortunate  it  is  that  I,  in  my  official  capacity  as 
Governor  of  Nagasaki,  can  greet  and  welcome  you,  sir,  as 
you  land  for  the  first  time  on  the  soil  of  Japan.  Many 
years  ago,  honored  sn*,  I  learned  to  appreciate  your  great 
services,  and  during  a  visit  to  the  United  States  I  was  filled 
with  an  ardent  desire  to  learn  more  of  your  illustrious  deeds» 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  257 

You  were  then  the  President  of  the  United  States,  and 
little  then  did  I  anticipate  that  I  should  be  the  first  Governor 
to  receive  you  in  Japan.  Words  cannot  express  my  feel- 
ing's. Nagasaki  is  so  far  from  the  seat  of  government  that 
I  fear  you  cannot  have  matters  arranged  to  your  satisfac- 
tion. It  is  my  earnest  wish  that  you  and  Mrs.  Grant  may 
safely  travel  through  Japan  and  enjoy  the  visit." 

This  address  was  spoken  in  Japanese.  At  its  close  an 
interpreter,  who  stood  behind  His  Excellency  during  its 
delivery,  advanced  and  read  the  above  translation.  When 
the  Governor  finished,  General  Grant  arose  and  said : 

"Your  Excellency,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen: 
You  have  here  to-night  several  Americans  who  have  the 
talent  of  speech,  and  who  could  make  an  eloquent  response 
to  the  address  in  which  my  health  is  proposed.  I  have  no 
such  gift,  and  I  never  lamented  its  absence  more  than  now, 
when  there  is  so  much  tliat  I  want  to  say  about  your  coun- 
try, your  people  and  your  progress.  I  have  not  been  an 
inattentive  observer  of  that  progress,  and  in  America  we 
have  been  favored  with  accounts  of  it  from  my  distinguished 
friend,  whom  you  all  know  as  the  friend  of  Japan,  and 
whom  it  was  my  privilege  to  send  as  Minister — I  mean 
Judge  Bingham.  The  spirit  which  has  actuated  the  mis- 
sion of  Judge  Bingham  —  the  spirit  of  sympathy,  support 
and  conciliation  —  not  only  expressed  my  own  sentiments, 
but  those  of  America.  America  has  much  to  gain  in  the 
East — no  nation  has  greater  interests  —  but  America  has 
nothing  to  gain  except  what  comes  from  the  cheerful  ac- 
quiescence of  the  Eastern  people,  and  insures  tliem  as 
much  benefit  as  it  does  us.  I  should  be  ashamed  of  my 
countiy  if  its  relations  with  other  nations,  and  especially 
with  these  ancient  and  most  interesting  empires  in  the  East, 
were  based  upon  any  other  idea.  We  have  rejoiced  over 
your  progress.  We  have  watched  you  step  by  step.  We 
have  followed  the  unfolding  of  your  old  civilization,  and  its 
17 


258  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

absorbing  the  new.  You  have  had  oin-  profound  S3'i'npathy  in 
that  work,  our  sympathy  in  the  troubles  which  came  with  it, 
and  our  friendship.  I  hope  that  it  ma}^  continue  —  that  it 
may  long  continue.  As  I  have  said,  America  has  great 
interests  in  the  East.  She  is  your  next  neighbor.  She  is 
more  affected  by  the  Eastern  populations  than  any  other 
power.  She  can  never  be  insensible  to  what  is  doing  here. 
Whatever  her  influence  may  be,  I  am  proud  to  think  that 
it  has  always  been  exerted  in  behalf  of  justice  and  kindness. 
No  nation  needs  from  the  outside  powers  justice  and  kind- 
ness more  than  Japan,  because  the  work  that  has  made 
such  marvelous  progress  in  the  past  few  3'ears  is  a  work 
in  which  we  are  deeply  concerned,  in  the  success  of  which 
we  see  a  new  era  in  civilization,  and  which  we  should  en- 
courage. I  do  not  know,  gentlemen,  that  I  can  say  anything 
more  than  this  in  response  to  the  kind  words  of  the  Gov- 
ernor. Judge  Bingham  can  speak  with  much  more  elo- 
quence and  much  more  authority  as  our  INIinister.  But  I 
could  not  allow  the  occasion  to  pass  without  saying  how 
deeply  I  sympathized  with  Japan  in  her  efforts  to  advance, 
and  how  much  those  efforts  were  appreciated  in  America. 
In  that  spirit  I  ask  you  to  unite  with  me  in  a  sentiment: 
'  The  prosperity  and  the  independence  of  Japan.'  " 

General  Grant,  a  few  minutes  later,  arose  and  said  that 
he  wished  to  propose  another  toast  —  a  personal  one  —  the 
drinking  of  which  would  be  a  great  pleasure  to  him.  This 
was  the  health  of  Judge  Bingham,  the  American  Minister 
to  Japan.  He  had  appointed  the  Judge  Minister,  and  he 
was  glad  to  know  that  the  confidence  expressed  in  that 
appointment  had  been  confirmed  by  the  admiration  and 
respect  of  the  Japanese  people.  When  a  Minister  serves 
his  own  country  as  well  as  Judge  Bingham  has  served 
America,  and  in  doing  so  wins  the  esteem  of  the  authori- 
ties and  the  people  to  whom  he  is  accredited,  he  has 
achieved  the  highest  success  In  diplomacy. 


TOUR    AnOUXD    THE    WORLD.  259 

Mr.  Yoshida,  the  Japanese  Minister,  arose  and  asked 
leave  to  add  his  higli  appreciation  of  Mr.  Bingham,  and  the 
value  which  had  been  placed  on  his  friendsliip  to  Japan  by 
the  government.  He  was  proud  to  bear  public  tribute  to 
Mr.  Bingham's  sincerity  and  friendliness,  and  to  join  in 
drinking  his  health. 

Judge  Bingham,  in  response  to  the  sentiments  of  per- 
sonal regard  offered  by  Mr.  Yoshida,  acknowledged  the 
courtesy  to  himself,  and  said  that  he  had  come  hither  to 
join  the  official  representatives  of  His  Majesty  the  Em- 
peror, and  also  the  people  of  Nagasaki  in  fitting  testimo- 
nials of  respect  to  General  Grant,  the  friend  of  the  United 
States  of  America,  and  the  friend  of  Japan.  He  had  come 
to  Japan  as  Minister,  bearing  the  commission  issued  by  the 
distinguished  guest  of  the  evening.  It  had  been  his  en- 
deavor to  faithfully  discharge  his  duties,  and  in  such  man- 
ner as  would  strengthen  the  friendship  between  the  two 
countries,  and  promote  the  commercial  interests  of  both. 
,  He  knew  that  in  so  acting  he  reflected  the  wishes  of  the 
illustrious  man  who  is  the  guest  of  the  Empire,  and  the 
wishes  also  of  the  President  and  people  of  the  United 
States.  "  The  Government  of  my  country,"  said  Mr. 
Bingham,  "  has,  by  a  recent  treaty  with  Japan,  manifested 
its  desire  that  justice  may  be  done,  by  according  to  Japan 
her  right  to  regulate  her  own  commercial  affairs,  and  to  do 
justice  is  the  highest  duty,  as  it  is  the  highest  interest,  of 
civil  government."  , 

On  June  34,  General  Grant  was  banqueted  by  the  citi- 
zens in  the  style  of  the  daimios,  the  feudal  lords  of  Japan. 
The  place  selected  was  the  old  temple  in  the  heart  of  the 
city.  The  party  numbered  about  twenty,  including  Gen- 
eral Grant  and  party.  Consul  Mangum  and  family,  and 
Consul  Denny  and  family.  The  Herald  correspondent  ac- 
coinpanying  General  Grant  speaks  of  this  dinner  as  follows: 

"  The  dinner  was  served  on  small  tables,  each  guest 


26o  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

having  a  table  to  himself.  The  merchants  of  the  city 
waited  on  their  guests,  and  with  them  a  swarm  of  attend- 
ants wearing  the  costumes  of  Japan.  The  bill  of  fare  was 
almost  a  volume,  and  embraced  over  fifty  courses.  The 
wine  was  served  in  unglazed  porcelain  wine  cups,  on  white 
wooden  stands.  The  appetite  was  pampered  in  the  begin- 
ning with  dried  fish,  edible  seaweeds  and  isinglass,  in  some- 
thing of  the  Scandinavian  style,  except  that  the  attempt  did 
not  take  the  form  of  brandy  and  raw  fish.  The  first  serious 
dish  was  composed  of  crane,  seaweed,  moss,  rice  bread  and 
potatoes,  which  we  picked  over  in  a  curious  way,  as  though 
we  were  at  an  auction  sale  of  remnants,  anxious  to  rummage 
out  a  bargain.  The  soup,  when  it  first  came  —  for  it  came 
many  times  —  was  an  honest  soup  of  fish,  like  a  delicate 
fish  chowder.  Then  came  strange  dishes,  as  ragout  and  as 
soup,  in  bewildering  confusion.  The  first  was  called 
namasu,  and  embodied  fish,  clams,  chestnuts,  rock  mush- 
rooms and  gfinsrer.  Then,  in  various  combinations,  the  fol- 
lowing :  duck,  truffles,  turnips,  dried  bonito,  melons,  pressed 
salt,  aromatic  shrubs,  snipe,  egg  plant,  jelly,  boiled  rice, 
snapper,  shrimp,  potatos,  mushroom,  cabbage,  lassfish, 
orange  flowers,  powdered  fish,  flavored  with  plum  juice 
and  walnuts,  raw  carp  sliced,  mashed  fish,  baked  fish,  isin- 
glass, fish  boiled  with  pickled  beans,  wine,  and  rice  again. 
This  all  came  in  the  first  coui'se,  and  as  a  finale  to  the 
course  there  was  a  sweetmeat  composed  of  white  and  red  ^ 
bean  jelly  cake,  and  boiled  black  mushroom.  With  this 
came  powdered  tea,  which  had  a  green,  monitory  look, 
and  suggested  your  earliest  experience  in  medicine.  When 
the  first  pause  came  in  the  dinner,  two  of  the  merchant 
hosts  advanced  toward  General  Grant  and  read  the  follow- 
ing address:  — 

" '  General  U.  S.  Grant  :  In  the  name  of  the  citizens 
of  Na<Tasaki  we  offer  vou  a  sincere  welcome  to  this  small 
town.     We  feel  greatly  honored  by  your  visit  to  Nagasaki, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  26l 

and  still  more  so  by  your  becoming  our  guest  this  evening. 
Any  outward  signs  of  I'espect  and  hospitality  we  offer  you 
are  but  a  fraction  of  our  kindly  feelings  toward  you, 
and  are  quite  inadequate  to  express  the  great  admiration 
we  have  for  you.  On  your  return  to  your  own  great 
country,  after  having  visited  this  Eastern  Empire,  we  trust 
you  will  carry  with  you  pleasant  reminiscences  and  friendly 
feelings  toward  our  country  and  people.  We  wish  you 
a  successful  career  and  a  long  life  and  health  to  enjoy  the 
illustrious  name  and  position  you  have  made  for  yourself. 
The  dinner  at  which  you  have  honored  us  with  your  com- 
pany is  given  in  this  country  to  convey  from  the  hosts 
their  well  wishes  and  the  friendship  they  feel  toward  their 
honorable  guest;  and  in  the  hope  that  a  long  and  sincere 
intimacy  may  be  promoted  between  our  guest  and  those  we 
have  the  honor  to  represent  to-night,  we  have  offered  you 
this  poor  entertainment. 

" '  We  have  the  honor  to  be,  with  much  respect,  your 
most  obedient  servants, 

"'AWOKI  KiNHICHIRO, 

"'Matsuda  Gongoro. 
"^Jime  24,1819: 

"  '  General  Grant  arose,  and  said: 

"  '  Gentlemen  :  I  am  highly  honored  by  your  address, 
and  also  by  this  sumptuous  entertainment.  I  have  enjoyed 
exceedingly  my  visit  to  Japan,  and  appreciate  more  than  I 
can  say  the  kindness  that  has  been  shown  me  by  all  per- 
sons. But  I  have  enjoyed  nothing  more  than  this,  because 
it  comes  from  the  citizens  of  Nagasaki,  and  is  entirely  unof- 
ficial. That  I  take  as  an  especial  compliment,  coming  as  it 
does  from  the  people  and  not  the  government.  For  while 
I  am  deeply  gratified  for  all  that  your  government  is  doing 
to  render  my  trip  hei'e  agreeable  and  instructive,  I  have  a 
peculiar  pleasure  in  meeting  those  who  are  not  in  author- 
ity, who  are  the  citizens  of  a  country.     I  shall  take  away 


r 


262  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

from  Nagasaki  the  most  grateful  remembrances  of  your 
hospitality  and  the  most  pleasant  recollections  of  the 
beauty  ot  the  place.  Again  accept  my  sincere  thanks  for 
your  kindness.' 

"  When  the  second  course  was  finished  —  the  course  that 
came  to  an  end  in  powdered  tea  and  sweetmeats,  composed 
of  white  and  red  bean  jelly  cake  and  boiled  black  mush- 
room—  there  was  an  interval.  All  arose  from  the  table 
and  sauntered  about  on  the  graveled  walk,  and  looked  down 
upon  the  bay  and  the  enfolding  hills.  One  never  tires  of 
a  scene  like  Nagasaki;  everything  is  so  ripe  and  rich  and 
old.  Tmie  has  done  so  much  for  the  venerable  town,  the 
eddies  of  a  new  civilization  are  rushing  in  upon  Nagasaki. 
The  town  has  undergone  vast  changes  since  the  day  when 
Dutch  merchants  were  kept  in  a  reservation  more  secluded 
than  we  have  ever  kept  our  Indians;  when  Xavier  and  his 
disciples  threaded  those  narrow  streets  preaching  the  salva- 
tion that  comes  through  the  blood  of  Jesus;  when  Chris- 
tians were  driven  at  the  point  of  the  spear  to  yon  beetling 
cliff  and  tumbled  into  the  sea.  These  are  momentous  events 
in  the  history  of  Japan.  They  were  merely  incidents  in 
the  history  of  Nagasaki.  The  ancient  town  has  lived  on 
sleepily,  embodying  and  absorbing  the  features  of  Eastern 
civilization,  unchanged  and  unchanging,  its  beauty  expres- 
sive because  it  is  a  beauty  of  its  own,  untinted  by  Euro- 
peans. We  have  old  towns  in  the  European  world.  We 
even  speak  as  if  we  had  a  past  in  fresh  America.  But 
what  impresses  you  in  these  aspects  of  Eastern  develop- 
ment is  their  antiquity,  befox^e  which  the  most  ancient  of 
our  towns  are  but  as  yesterday.  The  spirit  of  ages  breathes 
over  Nagasaki,  and  you  cease  to  think  of  chronology  and 
see  only  the  deep,  rich  tones  which  time  has  given  and 
which  time  alone  can  give. 

"  But  while  we  could  well  spend  our  evening  strolling 
over  this  graveled  walk  and  leaning  over  the  quaint  brick 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  263 

wall  and  studying  the  varied  and  ever  changing  scene  that 
sweeps  beneath  us,  we  must  not  forget  our  entertainment. 
On   returning  to   the  dining-room,  we  find  that  the  serv- 
ants have  brought  in  the  candles.     Before  each  table  is  a 
pedestal,  on  which  a  candle  burns,  and  the  old  temple  lights 
up  with  a  new  splendor.     To  add  to  this  splendor  the  walls 
have  been  draped  with  heavy  silks,  embroidered  with  gold 
and  silver,  with  quaint  and  curious  legends  in  the  history 
of  Japan.     The    merchants    enter    again,   bearing    meats. 
Advancing  to  the  centre  of  the  room,  and   to  the   Gen- 
eral, they    kneel   and  press  their  foreheads  to    the  floor. 
With  this   demure   courtesy    the    course    begins.      Other 
attendants  enter,  and  place  on  each  table  the  lacquer  bowls 
and  dishes.     Instead  of  covering  the  tables  with  a  variety 
of  food,  and  tempting  you  with  auxiliary  dishes  of  water- 
melon seeds  and  almond  kernels,  as  in  China,  the  Japanese 
give  you  a  small  variety  at  a  time.     Our  amiable  friend, 
the  Japanese  Minister,  warned  us  in  the  beginning  not  to 
be  in  a  hurry,  to  restrain  our  curiosity,  not  to  hurry  our  in- 
vestigations into  the  science  of  a  Japanese  table,  but  to  pick 
and  nibble  and  wait  —  that  there  were  good  things  coming, 
which  we  should  not  be  beyond  the  condition  of  enjoying. 
What  a  comfort,  for  instance,  a  roll  of  bread  would  be,  and 
a  glass  of  dry  champagne!     But  there  is  no  bread  and  no 
wine,  and  our  only  drink  is  the  hot  preparation  from  rice, 
with  its  sherry  flavor,  which  is  poured  out  of  a  teapot  into 
shallow  lacquer  saucers,  and  which  you  sip,  not  without 
relish,  although  it  has  no  place  in  any  beverage  known  to 
your  experience.     We  are  dining,  however,  in  strict  Jap- 
anese fashion,  just  as  the  old  daimios  did,  and  our  hosts  are 
too  good  artists  to  spoil  a  feast  with  champagne.     Then  it 
has  been  going  on  for  hours,  and  when  you  have  reached 
the  fourth  hour  of  a  dinner,  even  a  temperance  dinner,  with 
nothing  more  serious  than  a  hot,   insipid,  sherry-like  rice 
drink,  you  have  passed  beyond  the  critical  and  curious  into 


264  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

the  resif^ned  condition.     If  we  had  only  been  governed  by 
the  Minister,  we  might  have  enjoyed  this  soup,  which  comes 
first  in  the  course,  and,  as  you  h'it  the  lacquered  top,  you 
know  to  be  hot  and  fragrant.     It  is  a  soup  composed  of 
carp  and  mushroom  and  aromatic  shrub.     Another  dish  is 
a  prepared  fish  that  looks  like  a  confection  of  cocoanut,  but 
which  you  see  to  be  fish  as  you  prod  it  with  your  chop- 
sticks.    This  is   composed   of  the   red  snapper  fish,  and  is 
served  in  red  and  white  alternate  squai^es.     It  looks  well, 
but  you  pass  it  by,  as  well  as  another  dish  that  is  more 
poetic,  at  least,  for  it  is  a  preparation  of  the  skylark,  wheat- 
flour  cake  and  gourd.     We  are  not  offended  by  the  next 
soup,  which  comes  hot  and  smoking,  a  soup  of  buckwheat 
and  egg-plant.     The  egg-plant  always  seemed  to  be  a  vul- 
gar, pretentious  plant,  that  might  do  for  the  trough,  but 
was  never  intended  for  the  dignity  of  the  table.     But  buck- 
wheat in  a  soup  is  unfitting,  and,  allied  with  the  egg  plant, 
is  a  degradation,  and  no  sense  of  curious  inquiry  of  investi- 
gation can  tolerate  so  grave  a  violation  of  the  harmony  of 
the  table.     You  push  your  soup  to  the  end  of  the  table 
and  nip  off  the  end  of  a  fresh  cigar,  and  look  out  upon  the 
town,  over  which  the  dominant  universe  has  thrown  the 
star-sprinkled  mantle  of  night,  and  follow  the  lines  of  light 
that  mark   the  welcome   we   are  enjoying,  and  trace  the 
ascending  rockets   as  they  shoot  up  from   the   hillside  to 
break    into    masses   of    dazzling   fire    and    illuminate   the 
heavens  for  a  moment  in  a  rhapsody  of  blue  and  scarlet 
and  green  and  silver  and  gold. 

"  If  you  have  faith,  you  will  enter  bravely  into  the  dish 
that  your  silk-draped  attendant  now  j^laces  before  you,  and 
as  he  does  bows  to  the  level  of  the  table  and  slides  away. 
This  is  called  oh-hira.  The  base  of  this  dish  is  panyu. 
Panyu  is  a  sea  fish.  The  panyu  in  itself  would  be  a  dish, 
but  in  addition  we  have  a  fungus,  the  roots  of  the  lily  and 
the  stems  of  the  pumpkin. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  265 

"  While  our  hosts  are  passhig  around  the  strange  dishes 
a  signal  is  made,  and  the  musicians  enter.  They  are  maid- 
ens with  fair,  pale  faces,  and  small,  dark,  serious  eyes.  You 
are  pleased  to  see  that  their  teeth  have  not  been  blackened, 
as  was  the  custom  in  past  days,  and  is  even  now  almost  a 
prevalent  custom  among  the  lower  classes.  We  are  told 
that  the  maidens  who  have  come  to  grace  our  feast  are  not 
of  the  common  singing  class,  but  the  daughters  of  the  mer- 
chants and  leading  citizens  of  Nagasaki.  The  first  group  is 
composed  of  three.  They  enter,  sit  down  on  the  floor,  and 
bow  their  heads  in  salutation.  One  of  the  instruments  is 
shaped  like  a  guitar,  another  is  something  between  a  banjo 
and  a  drum.  They  wear  the  costume  of  the  country,  the 
costume  that  was  known  before  the  new  days  came  upon 
Japan.  They  have  blue  silk  gowns,  white  collars,  and 
heavily  brocaded  pearl- colored  sashes.  The  principal  in- 
strument was  long  and  narrow,  shaped  like  a  coffin  lid, 
and  sounding  like  a  harpsichord.  After  they  had  played 
an  overture,  another  group  entered,  fourteen  maidens  simi- 
larly dressed,  each  carrying  the  small  banjo-like  instru- 
ment, and  ranging  themselves  on  a  bench  against  the  wall, 
the  tapestry  and  silks  suspended  over  them.  Then  the 
genius  of  the  artist  was  apparent,  and  the  rich  depending 
tapestry,  blended  with  the  blue  and  white  and  pearl,  and 
animated  with  the  faces  of  the  maidens,  their  music  and 
their  songs,  made  a  picture  of  Japanese  life  which  an  artist 
might  regard  with  envy.  You  see  then  the  delicate  features 
of  Japanese  decoration  which  have  bewitched  our  artist 
friends,  and  which  the  most  adroit  fingers  in  vain  try  to 
copy.  When  the  musicians  enter,  the  song  begins.  It  is 
an  original  composition.  The  theme  is  the  glory  of  America 
and  honor  to  General  Grant.  They  sing  of  the  joy  that 
his  coming  has  given  to  Japan ;  of  the  interest  and  the  pride 
they  take  in  his  fame;  of  their  friendship  for  their  friends 
across  the  great  sea.     This  is  all  sung  in  Japanese,  and  we 


266  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

follow  the  lines  through  the  mediation  of  a  Japanese  friend 
who  learned  his  Ensrlish  in  America.  This  anthem  was 
chanted  in  a  low,  almost  monotonous  key,  one  singer  lead- 
ing in  a  kind  of  solo,  and  the  remainder  coming  in  with 
a  chorus.  The  song  ended,  twelve  dancing  maidens  enter. 
Thev  wore  a  crimson-like  overgarment  fashioned  like 
pantaloons  —  a  foot  or  so  too  long  —  so  that  when  they 
walked  it  was  with  a  dainty  pace,  lest  they  might  trip  and 
fall.  The  director  of  this  group  was  constantly  on  his 
hands  and  knees,  creeping  around  among  the  dancers, 
keeping  their  drapery  in  order,  not  allowing  it  to  bundle 
up  and  vex  the  play.  These  maidens  carried  bouquets  of 
pink  blossoms,  artificially  made,  examples  of  the  flora  of 
Japan.  They  stepped  through  the  dance  at  as  slow  a 
measure  as  in  a  minuet  of  Louis  XIV.  The  movement  of 
the  dance  was  simple,  and  the  music  a  humming,  thrum- 
ming, as  though  the  performers  were  tuning  their  instru- 
ments. After  passing  through  a  few  measures  the  dancers 
slowly  filed  out,  and  were  followed  by  another  group,  who 
came  wearing  masks  —  the  mask  in  the  form  of  a  large 
doll's  face  —  and  bearing  children's  rattles  and  fans.  The 
peculiarity  of  this  dance  was  that  time  was  kept  by  the 
movement  of  the  fan  —  a  graceful,  expressive  movement, 
which  only  the  Eastern  people  have  learned  to  bestow  on 
the  fiui.  With  them  the  fan  becomes  almost  an  organ  of 
speech,  and  the  eye  is  employed  in  its  management  at  the 
expense  of  the  admiration  we  are  apt  at  home  to  bestow 
on  other  features  of  the  amusement.  The  masks  indicated 
that  this  was  a  humorous  dance,  and  when  it  was  over  four 
special  performers,  who  had  imusual  skill,  came  in  with 
flowers,  and  danced  a  pantomime.  Then  came  four  others, 
with  costumes  different  —  blue  robes,  trimmed  with  gold  — 
who  carried  long,  thin  wands,  entwined  in  gold  and  red, 
from  which  dangled  festoons  of  pink  blossoms. 

"  All  this  time  the  music  hummed  and  thrummed.     To 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  267- 

vary  the  show,  we  had  even  a  more  grotesque  amusement. 
First  came  eight  chilch-en,  who  could  scarcely  do  more  than 
toddle.  They  were  dressed  in  white,  embroidered  in  green 
and  i-ed,  wearing  purple  caps  formed  like  the  Phrygian 
liberty  cap,  and  dangling  on  the  shoulders.  They  came 
into  the  temple  enclosure  and  danced  on  the  graveled  walk, 
while  two,  wearing  an  imitation  of  a  dragon's  skin,  went 
through  a  dance  and  various  contortions,  supposed  to  be  a 
dragon  at  play.  This  reminded  us  of  the  pantomime  ele- 
phant, where  one  performer  plays  the  front  and  another 
the  hind  legs.  In  the  case  of  our  Japanese  dragon  the  legs 
were  obvious,  and  the  performers  seemed  indisposed  even 
to  respect  the  illusion.  It  was  explained  that  it  was  an 
ancient  village  dance,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Japan,  and  that  on 
festive  occasions,  when  the  harvests  ai^e  ripe  or  when  some 
legend  or  feat  of  heroism  is  to  be  commemorated,  they  assem- 
ble and  dance  it.  It  was  a  trifling,  innocent  dance,  and  you 
felt  as  you  looked  at  it,  and,  indeed,  at  all  the  features  of  our 
most  vmique  entertainment,  that  there  was  a  good  deal  of 
nursery  imagination  in  Japanese  J'cfcs  and  games.  A  more 
striking  feature  were  the  decorations  which  came  with  the 
second  course  of  our  feast.  First  came  servants,  bearing 
two  trees,  one  of  the  pine  the  other  of  the  plum.  The 
plum  tree  was  in  full  blossom.  One  of  these  was  set  on  a 
small  table  in  front  of  Mrs.  Grant,  the  other  in  front  of  the 
General.  Another  decoration  was  a  cherry  tree,  surmount- 
ing a  large  basin,  in  which  were  living  carp  fish.  The  carp 
has  an  important  position  in  the  legends  of  Japan.  It  is 
the  emblem  of  ambition  and  resolution.  This  quality  was 
shown  in  another  decoration,  representing  a  waterfall,  with 
carp  climbing  against  the  stream.  The  tendency  of  the 
carp  to  dash  against  rocks  and  climb  waterfalls,  which 
should  indicate  a  lower  order  of  intellect  and  perverted  judg- 
ment, is  supposed  to  shew  the  traits  of  the  ambitious  man. 
"  The  soups  disappear.   You  see  we  have  only  had  seven 


268  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

distinct  soups  served  at  intervals,  and  so  cunningly  pre- 
pared that  you  are  convinced  that  in  the  ancient  days  of 
Japanese  splendor  soup  had  a  dignity  which  it  has  lost. 

"  With  the  departure  of  the  soups  our  dinner  becomes 
fantastic.  Perhaps  the  old  daimios  knew  that  by  the  time 
their  guests  had  eaten  of  seven  soups  and  twenty  courses 
in  addition,  and  drank  of  innumerable  dishes  of  rice  liquor, 
they  were  in  a  condition  to  require  a  daring  flight  of  genius. 

"  The  music  is  in  full  flow,  and  the  lights  of  the  town 
grow  brighter  with  the  shades  of  darkening  night,  and 
some  of  the  company  have  long  since  taken  refuge  from 
the  dinner  in  cigars,  and  over  the  low  brick  wall  and  in 
the  recesses  of  the  temple  grounds  crowds  begin  to  cluster 
and  form,  and  below,  at  the  foot  of  the  steps,  the  crowd 
grows  larger  and  larger,  and  you  hear  the  buzz  of  the 
throng  and  the  clinking  of  the  lanterns  of  the  chair  bearers, 
for  the  whole  town  was  in  festive  mood,  and  high  up  in  our 
open  temple  on  the  hillside  we  have  become  a  show  for  the 
town.  Well,  that  is  only  a  small  return  for  the  measure- 
less hospitality  we  have  enjoyed,  and,  if  we  can  gratify  an 
innocent  curiosity,  let  us  think  of  so  much  pleasure  given 
in  our  way  through  the  world.  It  is  such  a  relief  to  know 
that  we  have  passed  beyond  any  comprehension  of  our  din- 
ner, which  we  look  at  as  so  many  conceptions  and  prepara- 
tions—  curious  contrivances,  which  we  study  out  as  though 
they  were  riddles  or  problems  adjusted  for  our  entertain- 
ment. The  dining  quality  vanished  with  that  eccentric 
soup  of  lassfish  and  orange  flowers.  With  the  General  it 
went  much  eai'lier.  It  must  be  said  that  for  the  General 
the  table  has  few  charms,  and,  long  before  we  began  on 
the  skylarks  and  buckwheat  degraded  by  the  egg  plant,  he 
for  whom  this  feast  is  given  had  taken  refuge  in  a  cigar, 
and  contented  himself  with  looking  upon  the  beauty  of 
the  town  and  bay  and  cliff",  allowing  the  dinner  to  flow 
along.     You  will  observe,  if  you  have  followed  the  narra- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  269 

tive  of  our  feast,  that  meat  plays  a  small  and  fish  a  large  part 
in  a  daimios  dinner  —  fish  and  the  products  of  the  forest  and 
field.  The  red  snapper  has  the  place  of  honor,  and, 
although  we  have  had  the  snapper  in  five  diflferent  shapes  — 
as  a  soup,  as  a  ragout  flavored  with  cabbage,  broiled  with 
pickled  beans,  and  hashed  —  here  he  comes  again,  baked, 
decorated  with  ribbons,  with  every  scale  in  place,  folded  in  a 
bamboo  basket. 

"  As  a  final  course,  we  had  pears  prepared  with  horse 
radish,  a  cake  of  wheat  flour  and  powdered  ice.  The  din- 
ner came  to  a  close  after  a  struggle  of  six  or  seven  hours, 
and  as  we  drove  home  through  the  illuminated  town,  bril- 
liant with  lanterns  and  fireworks  and  arches  and  bonfires, 
it  was  felt  that  we  had  been  honored  by  an  entertainment 
such  as  we  may  never  again  expect  to  see." 

After  having  spent  several  days  in  this  old  town  and  its 
vicinity,  the  General  and  party  bid  adieu  to  the  many 
friends  and  acquaintances,  and  embarked  for  Yokohama, 
where  he  was  received  with  great  and  enthusiastic  demon- 
strations. After  a  short  reception  to  the  princes,  Ministers 
and  highoflicials  of  the  Japanese  government,  the  General 
and  party  were  driven  to  the  railroad  station,  and  at  two 
o'clock  the  train  entered  the  station  at  Tokio.  An  im- 
mense crowd  was  in  waiting.  As  the  General  descended 
from  the  train,  a  committee  of  citizens  advanced  and  asked 
to  read  an  address.  The  following  was  then  read  in  Japan- 
ese, by  Mr.  Fukuchi,  and  in  English  by  Dr.  McCartee: 

"Sir:  On  behalf  of  the  people  of  Tokio,  we  beg  to 
congratulate  you  on  your  safe  arrival.  How  you  crushed 
a  rebellion,  and  afterward  ruled  a  nation  in  peace  and  right- 
eousness, is  known  over  the  whole  world,  and  there  is  not 
a  man  in  Japan  who  does  not  admire  your  high  character 
and  illustrious  career.  Although  the  great  Pacific  Ocean 
stretches  for  thousands  of  miles  between  your  country  and 
ours,  your  people  are  our  next  neighbors  in  the  East,  and, 


370  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

as  it  was  chiefly  through  your  initiative  that  we  entered 
upon  those  relations  and  that  commerce  with  foreigners 
which  have  now  attained  such  a  flourishing  condition,  our 
countrymen  have  always  cherished  a  good  feeling  for  your 
people,  and  look  upon  them  more  than  on  any  other  for- 
eign nation  as  their  true  friends.  Moreover,  it  was  during 
the  happy  times  of  your  Presidency  that  the  two  countries 
became  more  closely  acquainted  and  connected,  and  almost 
every  improvement  that  has  been  made  in  our  country  may 
be  traced  to  the  example  and  lessons  received  from  yours. 
For  years  past,  not  only  our  Minister,  but  any  one  of  our 
countrj-men  who  went  to  your  country,  was  received  with 
hospitality  and  courtesy.  It  is,  therefore,  impossible  that 
our  countrymen  should  now  forbear  from  giving  expression 
to  their  gratification  and  gratitude. 

"  Your  visit  to  our  shores  is  one  of  those  rare  events 
that  happen  once  in  a  thousand  years.  The  citizens  of 
Tokio  consider  it  a  great  honor  that  they  have  been  afforded 
the  opportunity  of  receiving  you  as  their  guest,  and  they 
cherish  the  hope  that  this  event  will  still  more  cement  the 
friendship  between  the  two  nations  in  the  future  We  now 
offer  you  a  hearty  and  respectful  welcome. 

"  The  Tokio  Reception  Committee. 

"  The  3d  July,  jSjg." 

General  Grant  said: 

"  Gentlemen:  I  am  very  much  obliged  for  this  kind 
reception,  and  especially  for  your  address.  It  afTords  me 
great  pleasure  to  visit  Tokio.  I  had  been  some  days  in 
Japan,  having  seen  several  points  of  interest  in  the  interior 
and  on  the  inland  sea.  I  have  been  gratified  to  witness  the 
prosperity  and  advancement  of  which  I  had  heard  so 
much,  and  in  which  my  countrymen  have  taken  so  deep  an 
interest.  I  am  pleased  to  hear  your  kind  expressions  toward 
the  United  States.  We  have  no  sentiment  there  that  is  not 
friendly  to  Japan,  that  does  not  wish   her  prosperity  and 


TOUR    AKOL'XD    THE    WORLD.  2'Jl 

independence,  and  a  continuance  on  her  part  of  her  noble 
policy.  The  knowledge  that  your  country  is  prosperous  and 
advancing  is  most  gratifying  to  the  jDCople  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  my  sincere  wish  that  this  friendship  may 
never  be  broken.  For  this  kind  welcome  to  the  capital  of 
Japan  I  am  again  very  much  obliged." 

General  Grant's  home  in  Tokio  was  at  the  palace  of 
Enriokwan,  only  a  few  minutes'  ride  from  the  railroad  sta- 
tion. This  palace  was  one  of  the  homes  of  the  Tycoon;  it 
now  belongs  to  the  Emperor.  If  one's  ideas  of  palaces  are 
European,  or  even  American,  he  will  be  disappointed  with 
Enriokwan.  One  somehow  associates  a  palace  with  state, 
splendor,  a  profusion  of  color  and  decoration,  with  upholstery 
and  marble.  There  was  nothing  of  this  in  Enriokwan. 
The  ajDproach  to  the  grounds  was  by  a  dusty  road  that  ran 
by  the  side  of  a  canal.  The  canal  was  sometimes  in  an 
oozing  condition,  and  boats  were  held  in  the  mud.  There 
is  a  good  deal  of  ceremony  in  Enriokwan,  with  the  constant 
coming  and  going  of  great  people,  and  no  sound  is  more 
familiar  than  the  sound  of  the  bugle.  Passing:  a  sruard 
house  and  going  down  a  pebbled  way  to  a  low,  one-story 
building  with  w^ngs,  the  palace  of  Enriokwan  is  reached. 
Over  the  door  is  the  chrysanthemum,  the  Emperor's  special 
flower.  The  main  building  is  a  series  of  reception  rooms, 
in  various  styles  of  decoration,  notably  Japanese.  There 
are  eight  different  rooms  in  all.  General  Grant  used  the 
small  room  to  the  left  of  the  hall.  On  ceremonial  occasions 
he  used  the  main  saloon,  which  extended  one-half  the  lensfth 
of  the  palace.  Here  a  hundred  jDcople  could  be  entertained 
with  ease.  This  room  was  a  beautiful  specimen  of  Japanese 
decorative  art,  and  the  General  never  became  so  familiar  with 
it  that  there  were  not  constant  surprises  in  the  way  of  color 
or  form  or  design.  Each  of  these  rooms  was  decorated  dif- 
ferently from  the  others.  The  apartments  of  General  Grant 
and  party  were  in  one  wing,  the  dining-room,  billiard  room 


272  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

and  apartments  of  the  Japanese  officials  in  attendance  in 
another  wing.  Around  the  palace  was  a  verandah,  with 
growing  flowers  in  profusion  and  swinging  lanterns.  The 
beauty  of  the  palace  was  not  in  its  architecture,  which  was 
plain  and  inexpressive,  but  in  the  taste  which  marked  the 
most  minute  detail  of  decoration,  and  in  the  arrangement 
of  the  grounds. 

Enriokwan  is  an  island.  On  one  side  is  a  canal  and 
embanked  walls,  on  the  other  side  the  ocean.  Although 
in  an  ancient  and  populous  city,  surrounded  by  a  teeming, 
busy  metropolis,  one  feels  as  he  passes  nito  Enriokwan  that 
he  is  as  secure  as  in  a  fortress  and  as  secluded  as  in  a 
forest.  The  grounds  are  large,  and  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  and  finish  of  the  landscape  gardening.  In  the  art 
of  gardening  Japan  excels  the  world,  and  the  visitors  had 
seen  no  more  attractive  specimen  than  the  grounds  of 
Enriokwan.  Roads,  flower  beds,  lakes,  bridges,  artificial 
mounds,  creeks  overhung  with  sedgy  overgrowths,  lawns, 
boats,  bowers  over  which  vines  are  trailing,  summer  houses, 
all  combine  to  give  comfort  to  Enriokwan.  Sitting  on 
this  verandah,  under  the  columns  where  the  General  sat 
every  evening,  he  could  look  out  upon  a  ripe  and  perfect 
landscape,  dowered  with  green.  If  they  walked  into  the 
grounds  a  few  minutes  they  passed  a  gate  —  an  inner  gate, 
which  was  locked  at  night  —  and  came  to  a  lake,  on  the 
banks  of  which  is  a  Japanese  summer  house.  The  lake  is 
artificial,  and  fed  from  the  sea.  They  crossed  a  bridge  and 
came  to  another  summer  house.  Here  were  two  boats  tied 
up,  with  the  imperial  chrysanthemum  emblazoned  on  their 
bows.  These  are  the  private  boats  of  the  Emperor,  and  if 
they  care  for  a  pull  they  can  row  across  and  lose  themselves 
in  one  of  the  creeks.  They  ascend  a  grassy  mound,  however,, 
not  more  than  forty  feet  high.  Steps  are  cut  in  the  side  of 
the  mound,  and  when  they  reach  the  summit  they  see  beneath 
them  the  waves  and  before  them  the  ocean.     The  sea  at 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  373 

this  point  forms  a  bay.  When  the  tides  are  down  and  the 
waves  are  cahii,  fishermen  are  seen  wading  about,  seeking 
shells  and  shellfish.  When  the  tides  are  up,  the  boats  sail 
near  the  shore,  and  sometimes  as  one  is  strolling  under  the 
trees  he  can  look  up  and  see  through  the  foliage  a  sail  float 
past  him,  firm  and  steady  and  bending  to  the  breeze. 

The  summer  houses  by  the  lake  are  worthy  of  study. 
Japan  has  taught  the  world  the  beauty  of  clean,  fine  grained 
natural  wood,  and  the  fallacy  of  glass  and  paint.  Nothing 
could  be  more  simple,  at  the  same  time  more  tasteful,  than 
these  summer  houses.  It  is  one  room,  with  grooves  for  ? 
partition  if  two  rooms  should  be  needed.  The  floor  is  cov' 
ered  with  a  fine,  closely  woven  mat  of  bamboo  strips.  Over 
the  mat  is  thrown  a  rug,  in  which  black  and  brown  pre- 
dominate. The  walls  looking  out  to  the  lake  are  a  series 
of  frames  that  can  be  taken  out  —  lattice  work  of  small 
squares,  covered  with  jDaper.  The  ceiling  is  plain,  unvar- 
nished wood.  There  are  a  few  shelves,  with  vases,  blvie 
and  white  pottery,  containing  growing  plants  and  flowers. 
There  are  two  tables,  and  their  only  furniture  a  large  box 
of  gilded  lacquer,  for  stationeiy,  and  a  smaller  one,  con- 
taining cigars.  These  boxes  are  of  exquisite  workmanship, 
and  the  gold  crysanthemum  indicates  the  imperial  owner- 
ship. This  was  a  type  of  all  the  houses  that  were  seen  in 
the  palace  grounds,  not  only  at  Enriokwan,  but  elsewhere 
in  Japan.  It  shows  taste  aiid  economy.  Everything  about 
it  was  wholesome  and  clean,  the  workmanship  true  and 
minute,  with  no  tawdry  appliances  to  distract  or  offend  the 
eye. 

The  General's  life  In  Enriokwan  was  very  quiet.  The 
weather  had  been  such  that  going  out  during  the  day  was 
a  discomfort.  During  the  day  there  were  ceremonies,  calls 
from  Japanese  and  foreign  officials,  pajDcrs  to  read,  visits  to 
make.  If  the  evening  was  free,  the  General  had  a  dinner 
party  —  sometimes  small,  sometimes  large.  One  night  it 
18 


274  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

was  the  royal  Princes,  the  next  the  Prime  Ministers,  on 
other  evenings  other  Japanese  of  rank  and  station.  Some- 
times he  had  Admiral  Patterson  or  officers  from  the  fleet. 
Sometimes  Mr.  Bingham  and  his  family.  Governor  Hen- 
nessy,  the  British  Governor  of  Hong  Kong,  was  there  dur- 
ing a  part  of  his  stay.  General  Grant  was  the  guest  of  the 
Governor  during  his  residence  in  Hong  Kong,  and  formed 
a  high  opinion  of  the  Governor's  genius  and  character. 
The  Governor  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  Enriokwan,  and  no 
man  was  more  welcome  to  the  General.  Prince  Dati,  J^.Ir. 
Yoshida,  and  some  other  Japanese  officials,  live  at  Enriok- 
wan, and  formed  a  part  of  the  General's  family.  They  rep- 
resented the  Emperor,  and  remained  with  the  General  to 
serve  him,  and  make  his  stay  as  pleasant  as  possible. 
Nothing  could  be  more  considerate  or  courteous  or  hos- 
pitable than  the  kindness  of  their  Japanese  friends.  Some- 
times they  had  merchants  from  the  bazaars,  with  all  kinds 
of  curious  and  useful  thinirs  to  sell.     But  when  Mr.  Borie 

O 

went  home,  the  reputation  of  General  Grant's  part}-  as  pur- 
chasers of  curious  things  fell.  Sometimes  a  fancy  for  curi- 
riosities  took  possession  of  some  of  the  party,  and  the  result 
was  an  afternoon's  prowl  about  the  shops  in  Tokio,  and 
the  purchase  of  a  sword  or  a  spear,  or  a  bow  and  arrows. 
The  bazaars  of  Tokio  teemed  with  beautiful  works  of  art, 
and  the  temptation  to  go  back  laden  with  achievements  in 
porcelain  and  lacquer  was  too  great  to  be  resisted,  unless 
their  will  was  under  the  control  of  material  influences  too 
sordid  to  be  dwelt  upon. 

On  July  8,  three  Princes  and  Princesses  called  at  the 
palace  and  escorted  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  to  one  of  the 
Ministers,  where  a  native  dance  was  performed  for  their 
amusement.  In  the  evening  the  grand  reception,  for  which 
great  preparations  had  been  made,  came  off  at  the  College 
of  Engineering.  It  was  the  first  of  three  great  entertain- 
ments intended  to  be  given  the  General  in  Tokio,  for  which 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  2^5 

thirty  thousand  yen  had  been  subscribed.  The  weather 
during  the  afternoon  had  been  threatening,  but,  though  a 
few  drops  of  rain  fell,  there  was  not  sufficient  to  interfere 
with  the  brilliant  display  of  Japanese  lamps  with  which 
the  roadway  from  the  Enriokwan  to  the  college,  and  the 
compound  of  the  college,  was  illuminated.  In  the  com- 
pound there  were  six  thousand  lamps  of  variegated  colors, 
the  majority  having  the  national  flags  of  Japan  and  America 
painted  on  them.  At  the  entrance  to  the  main  hall  was  an 
arch,  composed  entirely  of  lanterns,  which  was  a  mag- 
nificent sjjectacle.  The  letters  "  U.  S.  G.,"  in  green  foliage, 
were  suspended  in  the  centre,  and  the  flags  of  Japan  and 
America,  joined  together,  reached  from  one  side  to  the 
other.  From  the  branches  of  every  tree  and  shrub  in  the 
grounds  hung  lanterns,  presenting  a  most  unique  and  pic- 
turesque appearance.  The  hall  in  which  the  reception  took 
place  \vas  a  fine  building,  capable  of  holding  a  thousand 
or  more  people  comfortably  on  the  ground  floor,  while  the 
extensive  galleries  ^vould  contain  several  hundred  persons. 
A  more  appropriate  building  for  the  occasion  could  not 
have  been  found  in  Tokio.  The  waiting-room  was  com- 
modious and  well  filled  with  excellent  seats,  but  rather 
poorly  lighted.  It  would  have  been  a  great  improvement 
if  some  lamps  had  been  fixed  on  the  walls,  and  thus  have 
enabled  visitors  to  distinguish  their  friends  easily.  The 
supper  room  was  some  distance  away  from  the  reception 
hall,  and  in  another  building,  and  the  committee  had  pru- 
dently provided  against  any  inclemency  on  the  part  of  the 
way  leading  to  it.  As  to  the  supper  itself,  little  may  be 
weather  by  erecting  a  temporary  roof  over  the  whole  path- 
said  ;  there  was  plenty  of  everything  and  everything  of  the 
best.  Shortly  after  8  o'clock  the  Governor  of  the  Tokio 
Fu  arrived  in  his  carriage,  and  on  alighting  courteously 
saluted  every  individual  in  the  waiting-room.  At  9  o'clock 
General  Grant,  Mrs.  Grant,  General  T.  B.   Van  Buren. 


276  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

Admiral  Patterson  and  several  Japanese  of  distinction  left 
the  Enriokwan  and  arrived  at  the  college  in  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  The  guest  of  the  evening  was  conducted  to  a  room 
up-stairs  which  had  been  prepared  for  him.  By  this  time 
over  a  thousand  guests  had  arrived,  including  princes  of  the 
blood,  Ministers  of  the  different  departments,  Japanese 
naval  and  military  officers,  the  Foreign  Ministers,  officers 
from  the  Richmond,  Monongahela  and  Ashuelot,  and  many 
distinguished  foreigners  and  native  citizens.  Soon  the 
secretary  of  the  entertainment  committee  cleared  the  way, 
and  soon  afterward  General  Grant  entered,  leaning  on  the 
arm  of  a  Japanese  official.  Mrs.  Grant  was  under  the  care 
of  another.  The  General,  Mrs.  Grant,  Mrs.  Hennessy 
and  Japanese  Princesses  were  conducted  to  the  far  end  of 
the  room,  where  seats  were  provided.  On  a  dais  at  their 
backs,  which  was  prettily  ornamented  with  flowers  and 
shrubs,  were  stationed  Admiral  Patterson,  Captain  Ben- 
ham,  General  Van  Buren  and  sevei'al  other  personages  of 
note.  The  large  hall  was  crowded  with  people  of  all 
nationalties,  dressed  in  bright  and  picturesque  costumes, 
making  as  brilliant  a  display  as  any  of  the  kind  that  had 
ever  taken  place  in  Tokio. 

For  over  half  an  hour  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  stood 
on  their  feet  to  shake  hands  with  and  receive  the  greetings 
of  the  people  of  Tokio.  It  was  warm  work  while  it  lasted. 
The  General  with  one  hand  returned  the  grasp  of  each  per- 
son as  he  or  she  passed  by,  and  wiped  the  perspiration  off 
his  brow  with  the  other.  The  reception  being  over,  a 
move  was  made  for  the  supper  room,  and,  a  short  time 
afterward,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  returned  to  the  Enriok- 
wan. Many  of  the  guests  also  returned  to  their  home& 
about  the  same  time,  but  others  remained  to  enjoy  them- 
selves. The  excellent  imperial  and  military  bands,  which 
had  been  playing  in  the  grounds  all  the  evening,  were 
brought  inside  and  discoursed  alternately.     A  faint  attempt 


TOUR    ARpUND    THE    WORLD.  277 

was  made  to  get  up  a  dance,  but  no  spirit  was  displayed, 
and  it  was  not  persevered  witli.  And  so  this  entertainment 
came  to  an  end. 

On  the  9th,  the  General  was  to  be  received  in  Yoko- 
hama. Durins:  the  forenoon  General  and  Colonel  Grant 
visited  the  military  college  in  Tokio,  and  were  received  by 
its  president.  Every  branch  of  the  college  was  carefully 
examined,  and  a  drill  by  the  cadets  witnessed.  There  were 
also  present  a  large  number  of  ministers,  generals,  council- 
lors of  state,  and  other  officials.  Three  members  of  the 
committee  of  entertainment  of  Yokohama  visited  the  Gen- 
eral at  the  Enriokwan,  to  conduct  him  to  the  evening  train. 
Arriving  at  the  station  about  nine  o'clock,  they  were  re- 
ceived by  the  committee  and  escorted  to  the  town  hall, 
where  the  reception  was  held.  The  principal  streets  were 
gaily  decorated  with  lanterns  bearing  the  American  and 
Japanese  flags,  and  along  one  side  of  the  street  leading  to 
the  depot  were  several  large  dashi,  or  festival  cars,  in  which 
native  music  and  pantomime  were  performed.  The  town 
hall  was  brilliantly  illuminated,  and  the  imperial  naval  band 
in  attendance  gave  a  fine  selection  of  music.  After  arriving 
at  the  hall,  General  Grant  held  a  reception,  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  exhibitions  of  native  dancing  and  acting.  A  well- 
spread  table  supplied  the  inner  wants  of  the  guests.  The 
party  returned  to  Tokio  by  a  special  train. 

On  the  loth.  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  visited  the  female 
normal  school  at  Tokio,  in  company  with  the  acting  Min- 
ister of  Education,  Mr.  Tanaka,  Mrs.  Tanaka,  and  several 
members  of  the  foreign  department.  On  arriving  at  the 
school,  they  were  received  by  the  director,  Mr.  Nakamura, 
who  conducted  his  visitors  to  the  room  where  the  students 
were  learning  their  lessons.  The  General  and  Mrs.  Grant 
were  much  pleased  with  the  arrangements,  and,  having 
been  shown  over  the  various  apartments,  took  their  leave 
and  proceeded  direct  to  the  educational  museum  at  Uyeno, 


278  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

where  they  were  entertained  at  a  banquet.  On  returning 
to  the  Enriokwan,  the  General  walked  through  the  Uyeno 
gardens. 

In  the  afternoon,  a  number  of  the  reception  committee 
of  Yokohama  visited  the  Enriokwan,  and  were  received  in 
the  drawing-room  of  the  palace.  Admiral  Patterson  and 
staff,  in  full  uniform,  were  present  also.  After  presenting 
the  gentlemen  of  the  committee,  General  Van  Buren  said: 

"  General  Grant,  the  gentlemen  who  have  just  been 
presented  to  you  are  representatives  of  the  foreign  com- 
munity of  Yokohama,  a  community  composed  of  all  nation- 
alities, and  gathered  from  almost  every  clime.  They  have 
commissioned  me  to  greet  you  in  their  name,  and  to  bid 
you  welcome  to  Yokohama  whenever  you  are  prepared  to 
honor  them  with  a  visit.  They  are  familiar  with  your  his- 
tory, and  believe  that  the  eminent  services  you  have  ren- 
dered your  country  have,  in  some  sense,  been  rendered  to 
the  world  at  large,  and  are  entitled  to  a  world's  recognition. 
Appreciating  the  kind  and  generous  hospitality  extended 
to  you  by  the  government  and  people  of  Japan,  the  foreign 
residents  of  Yokohama  desire  an  opportunity  to  meet  you 
in  person  and  to  express  to  you  personally  their  admiration 
and  regard.  To  this  end  they  propose  to  have  an  entertain- 
ment in  the  form  of  a  garden  party  at  such  time  as  may 
suit  your  convenience,  and  they  will  be  pleased  to  receive 
your  assent  to  the  proposition  and  your  acceptance  of  this 
most  cordial  invitation." 

General  Grant  replied:  "I  thank  the  foreign  residents 
of  Yokohama  most  cordially  for  their  kind  invitation, 
which  I  accept  with  great  pleasure;  but  it  will  be  impossi- 
ble for  me  at  present  to  fix  a  positive  date  for  tl.e  enter- 
tainment. On  the  1 6th  instant  it  is  arranged  that  I  go  to  the 
mountains,  to  be  gone  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  I  expect  to 
be  back  in  Tokio  the  later  part  of  the  month,  after  which, 
before  I  leave  Japan,  which  I  now  think  will  be  on  the 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  279 

27th  of  August,  I  am  to  go  north  to  Hakodate  and  vicinity, 
I  think  it  would  be  safe,  therefore,  to  fix  the  first  week  in 
August,  or  such  a  day  as  you  may  prefer." 

The  committee,  after  taking  refreshments,  were  con- 
ducted about  the  grounds,  which  were  in  excellent  order. 

The  next  day,  the  party  at  the  palace  remained  quiet. 
On  the  1 3th,  Saturday,  what  may  be  styled  the  "Feast  of 
Lanterns,"  took  place  on  the  Sumida  river  in  Tokio,  and 
was  of  unusual  brilliancy. 

Shortly  before  eight  o'clock,  General  and  Mrs.  Grant 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Yoshida  in  one  carriage.  Colonel  Giant, 
General  T.  B.  Van  Buren,  Lieutenant  Belknap  and  Mr. 
Young  in  another  carriage,  left  the  Enriokwan  for  the 
scene  of  festivities.  Mr.  Hachiska's  residence  on  the  river 
had  been  fitted  up  for  the  reception  of  the  illustrious  guest, 
who  was  met  by  the  Japanese  princes,  members  of  the 
ministry,  Mr.  Mori,  Hon.  John  A.  Bingham,  Miss  Bmg-- 
ham,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hennessy  (the  latter  astonished  the  na- 
tives by  appearing  in  Japanese  costume,  and,  when  asked 
why  she  was  so  dressed,  replied  that  it  was  not  only  con- 
venient to  wear  Japanese  clothing  in  hot  weather,  but  she 
also  wore  it  out  of  respect  to  Japan),  and  several  others  who 
were  invited.  In  the  locality  of  the  house  were  several 
foreigners  who  had  not  been  fortunate  enough  to  be  among, 
the  invited,  but  who  were  glad  to  have  the  privilege  of 
obtaining  a  good  view  without  being  crushed  in  the- 
crowd. 

The  streets  and  the  Riogoku-bashi  were  thronged  with 
visitors,  and  it  was  a  pi*etty  sight  when  seen  to  advantage. 
The  river  was  ablaze  with  red  and  white  lanterns,  which, 
together  with  an  almost  incessant  display  of  fireworks, 
formed  such  a  brilliant  spectacle  as  beggars  description  on 
paper.  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  were  delighted.  They 
had  never  seen  anything  of  the  kind  before,  and  the  Gen- 


28o  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

eral  expressed  his  opinion  that  he  never  expected  to  see 
such  an  interesting-  and  beautiful  illumination  again. 

At  ten  o'clock  Mr.  Hachiska's  guests  partook  of  a  sump- 
tuous repast,  which  had  been  provided;  shortly  afterward  a 
teiTific  shower,  such  as  occasionally  bursts  over  this  part  ot 
Japan,  almost  totally  extinguished  the  illumination.  The 
rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  so  that  even  passengers  by 
the  train  could  not  shut  it  out  of  the  carriages.  As  for 
the  immense  congregation  of  j)t;ople  on  the  bridges  and  in 
the  streets,  they  were  drenched  in  a  few  seconds.  A  rush 
Avas  made  for  shelter,  but  no  shelter  was  to  be  found,  and 
the  crow^l  surged  backward  and  forward  in  a  bewildered 
state  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour.  The  same  state  of  con- 
fusion prevailed  among  the  boats.  The  i"ain  put  nearly  all 
lights  out,  boats  collided  one  with  the  other,  and  the  shouts 
of  the  sendees  only  made  "confusion  worse  confounded." 
When  the  rain  ceased,  the  majority  of  speculators  had  had 
their  ardor  sufficiently  dampened  to  induce  them  to  make 
for  their  homes,  as  speedily  as  jinrikishas  could  take  them, 
which  was  not  very  fast,  certainly.  Every  now  and  then 
a  whole  streetful  of  these  vehicles  would  be  blocked  up, 
unable  to  move  for  several  minutes. 

About  eleven  o'clock  General  Grant  and  his  party 
returned  to  the  Enriokwan. 

On  July  4  occurred  the  reception  by  the  Emperor  at  his 
•palace.  The  hour  for  the  reception  was  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  General  Grant  invited  several  of  his  naval 
friends  to  accompany  him.  The  palace  of  the  Emperor 
was  a  long  distance  from  the  home  of  the  General.  Their 
drive  led  them  through  the  damios  quarter  and  through 
the  gates  of  the  city. 

The  impression  a  foreigner  gets  ot  Tokio  is  that  it  is  a 
city  of  walls  and  canals.  The  walls  are  crude  and  solid, 
surrounded  by  moats.  In  the  early  days  of  pikemen  and 
sword  bearers,  there  could  not  have  been  a  more  efFective 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  281 

defense.  After  crossing  a  dozen  or  more  bridges  in  the 
course  of  the  drive  to  the  palace  of  the  Emperor,  they  ar- 
rived at  a  modest  arched  gatev^ay.  Soldiers  w^ere  drawn  up, 
and  the  band  played  "Hail  Columbia."  The  carriages 
dro.ve  on  past  one  or  two  modest  buildings,  and  drew  up  in 
front  of  another  modest  building,  on  the  stejDS  of  which  the 
Prime  Minister,  Iwakaura  was  standing.  The  General  and 
party  descended,  and  were  cordially  welcomed  and  escorted 
up  a  narrow  stairway  into  an  ante-room.  The  home  of  the 
Emperor  was  as  simple  as  that  of  a  country  gentleman  at 
home.  There  are  many  country  gentlemen  with  felicitous 
investments  in  petroleum  and  silver  who  would  disdain  the 
home  of  a  prince  who  claims  direct  descent  from  heaven, 
and  whose  line  extends  far  beyond  the  Christian  era. 
What  marked  the  house  was  its  simplicity  and  taste.  One 
looks  for  splendor,  for  the  grand  —  at  least  the  grandoise  — 
for  some  royal  whim  like  the  holy  palace  near  the  Escu- 
rial,  which  cost  millions,  or  like  Versailles,  whose  cost  is 
among  the  eternal  mysteries.  Here  we  are  in  a  suite  of 
plain  rooms,  the  ceilings  of  wood,  the  walls  decorated  with 
natural  scenery,  the  furniture  sufficient  but  not  crowded, 
and  exquisite  in  style  and  finish.  There  is  no  pretense  of 
architectural  emotion.  The  rooms  are  large,  airy,  with  a 
sense  of  summer  about  them,  which  grows  stronger  as  seen 
out  of  the  window  and  down  the  avenues  of  trees.  The 
General  was  told  that  the  grounds  are  spacious  and  fine, 
even  for  Japan,  and  that  his  Majesty,  who  rarely  goes  out- 
side of  his  palace  grounds,  takes  what  recreation  he  needs 
within  the  walls.  <■ 

The  palace  is  a  low  building,  one  or  at  most  two  stories 
in  height.  They  do  not  build  high  walls  in  Japan,  and 
especially  in  Tokio,  where  earthquakes  are  ordinary  inci- 
dents, and  the  first  question  to  consider  in  building  up  is 
how  far  you  can  fall.  The  party  entered  a  room  where  all 
the  ministers  were  assembled.     The  Japanese  Cabinet  is  a 


283  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

famous  body,  and  tested  by  laws  of  physiognomy  would 
compare  with  that  of  any  cabinet  ever  seen.  The  Prime 
Minister  is  a  striking  character.  He  is  small,  slender,  with 
an  almost  girl-like  figure,  delicate,  clean  cut,  winning  fea- 
tures, a  face  that  might  be  that  of  a  boy  of  twenty  or  a 
man  of  fifty.  The  Prime  Minister  reminded  the  visitors 
of  Alexander  H.  Stephens  in  his  frail,  slender  frame,  but  it 
bloomed  with  health,  and  lacked  the  sad,  pathetic  lines 
which  tell  of  the  years  of  suffering  which  Stephens  has 
endui'ed.  The  other  Ministers  looked  like  strong,  able 
men.  Iwakura  had  a  striking  face,  with  lines  showing  firm- 
ness and  decision,  and  they  saw  the  scar  which  marked  the 
attempt  of  the  assassin  to  cut  him  down  and  slay  him,  as 
Okubo,  the  greatest  of  Japanese  statesmen,  was  slain  not 
many  months  ago.  That  assassination  made  as  deep  an 
impression  in  Japan  as  the  killing  of  Lincoln  did  in 
America.  The  spot  where  the  murder  was  done  was  seen 
on  the  way  to  the  palace,  and  the  Japanese  friend  who 
pointed  it  out  spoke  in  low  tones  of  sorrow  and  affection, 
and  said  the  crime  there  committed  had  been  an  irreparable 
loss  to  Japan. 

A  lord  in  waiting,  heavily  braided,  with  a  uniform  that 
Louis  XIV.  would  not  have  disliked  in  Versailles,  came 
came  softly  in,  and  made  a  signal,  leading  the  way.  The 
General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  escorted  by  Mr.  Bingham,  and 
their  retinue,  followed.  The  General  and  the  Minister 
were  in  evening  dresS.  The  naval  officers  were  in  full 
uniform,  Colonel  Grant  wearing  the  uniform  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel.  They  walked  along  a  short  passage  and  entered 
another  room,  at  the  farther  end  of  which  were  standing 
the  Emperor  and  Empress.  Two  ladies  in  waiting  were 
near  them  in  a  sitting,  what  appeared  to  be  a  crouching, 
attitude.  Two  other  princesses  were  standing.  These 
appeared  to  be  the  only  occupants  of  the  room.  The  Gen- 
eral and   party  slowly  advanced,  the  Japanese  making  a 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  283 

profound  obeisance,  bending  the  head  ahnost  to  a  right 
angle  with  the  body.  The  royal  princes  formed  in  line  near 
the  Emperor,  along  with  the  princesses.  The  Emperor 
stood  quite  motionless,  apparently  unobservant  or  uncon- 
scious of  the  homage  that  was  paid  him.  He  was  a  young 
man  with  a  slender  figure,  taller  than  the  average  Japan- 
ese, and  of  about  the  middle  height.  He  had  a  striking 
face,  with  a  mouth  and  lips  that  reminded  one  somewhat  of 
the  traditional  mouth  of  the  Hapsburg  family.  The  fore- 
head was  full  and  narrow,  the  hair  and  the  light  mustache 
and  beard  intensely  black.  The  color  of  the  hair  darkened 
what  otherwise  might  pass  for  a  swarthy  countenance  at 
home.  The  face  expressed  no  feeling  whatever,  and  but 
for  the  dark,  glowing  eye,  which  was  bent  full  upon  the 
General,  ore  might  have  taken  the  Imperial  group  for 
statues.  The  Empress,  at  his  side,  wore  the  Japanese 
costume,  rich  and  plain.  Her  face  was  very  white,  and  her 
form  slender  and  almost  childlike.  Her  hair  was  combed 
plainly  and  braided  with  a  gold  arrow.  The  Emperor  and 
Empress  had  agreeable  faces,  the  Emperor  especially  show- 
ing firmness  and  kindness.  The  solemn  etiquette  that  per- 
vaded the  audience  chamber  was  peculiar,  and  might 
appear  strange  to  those  familiar  with  the  stately  but  cordial 
manners  of  a  European  court.  But  one  must  remember 
that  the  Emperor  holds  so  high  and  so  sacred  a  place  in  the 
traditions,  the  religion,  and  the  political  system  of  Japan, 
that  even  this  ceremony  is  so  far  in  advance  of  anything  of 
the  kind  ever  known  in  Japan  that  it  might  be  called  a 
revolution.  The  Emperor,  for  instance,  as  the  group  was 
formed,  advanced  and  shook  hands  with  the  General.  This 
seems  a  trivial  thing,  but  such  an  incident  was  never  known 
in  the  history  of  Japanese  majesty.  Many  of  these  details 
may  appear  small,  but  our  party  were  in  the  presence  of  an 
old  and  romantic  civilization,  slowly  giving  way  to  the 
fierce,  feverish  pressure  of  European  ideas,  and    one  can 


2S4  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

onlv  note  the  chansre  in  those  incidents  which  would  be 
unnoticed  in  otlier  lands.  The  incident  of  the  Emperor  of 
Japan  advancing  toward  General  Grant  and  shaking 
hands,  becomes  a  historic  event  of  consequence.  The 
manner  of  the  Emperor  was  constrained,  almost  awkw^ard, 
the  manner  of  a  man  doing  a  thing  for  the  first  time,  and 
trying  to  do  it  as  well  as  possible.  After  he  had  shaken 
hands  with  the  General  he  returned  to  his  place,  and  stood 
with  his  hand  resting  on  his  sword,  looking  on  at  the 
brilliant,  embroidered,  gilded  company,  as  though  uncon- 
scious of  their  presence.  Mr.  Bingham  advanced  and 
bowed,  and  received  just  the  faintest  nod  in  recognition. 
The  other  members  of  the  party  were  each  presented  by 
the  Minister,  and  each  one,  standing  about  a  dozen  feet 
from  the  Emperor,  stood  and  bowed.  Then  the  General 
and  Mrs.  Grant  were  presented  to  the  jorincesses,  each 
party  bowing  to  the  other  in  silence.  The  Emperor  then 
made  a  signal  to  one  of  the  noblemen,  who  advanced. 
The  Emperor  spoke  to  him  a  few  moments  in  a  low  tone, 
the  nobleman  standing  w^ith  bowed  head.  When  the 
Emperor  had  finished,  the  nobleman  advanced  to  the  Gen- 
eral, and  said  he  was  commanded  by  His  Majesty  to  read 
him  the  following  address: 

"  Your  name  has  been  known  to  us  for  a  long  time,  and 
we  are  highly  gratified  to  see  you.  While  holding  the  high 
office  of  President  of  the  United  States  you  extended 
toward  our  countrymen  especial  kindness  and  courtesy. 
When  our  ambassador,  Iwakura,  visited  the  United  States, 
he  received  the  greatest  kindness  from  you.  The  kindness 
thus  shown  by  you  has  always  been  remembered  by  us. 
In  your  travels  around  the  world  you  have  reached  this 
country,  and  our  people  of  all  classes  feel  gratified  and 
happy  to  receive  you.  We  trust  that  during  your  sojourn 
in  our  country  you  may  find  much  to  enjoy.  It  gives  me 
sincere  pleasure  to  receive  you,  and  we  are  especially  grati- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  285 

filed  that  we  have  been  able  to  do  so  on  the  anniversary  of 
American  independence.  We  congratulate  you,  also,  on 
the  occasion." 

This  address  was  read  in  English.  At  its  close,  General 
Grant  said: 

"  Your  Majesty  :  I  am  very  grateful  for  the  welcome 
you  accord  me  here  to-day,  and  for  the  great  kindness  with 
which  I  have  been  received,  ever  since  I  came  to  Japan,  by 
your  government  and  your  2:5eople.  I  recognize  in  this  a 
feeling  of  friendship  toward  ray  country.  I  can  assure  you 
that  this  feeling  is  reciprocated  by  the  United  States;  that 
our  people,  without  regard  to  party,  take  the  deepest  inter- 
est in  all  that  concerns  Japan,  and  have  the  warmest  wishes 
for  her  welfare.  I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  express  that 
sentiment.  America  is  your  next  neighbor,  and  will  always 
give  Japan  sympathy  and  support  in  her  efforts  to  advance. 
I  again  thank  Your  Majesty  for  your  hospitality,  and  wish 
you  a  long  and  happy  reign,  and  for  your  people  prosperity 
and  independence." 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  address,  which  was  extempore, 
the  lord  advanced  and  translated  it  to  His  Majesty.  Then 
the  Emperor  made  a  sign,  and  said  a  few  words  to  the 
nobleman.  He  came  to  the  side  of  IMrs.  Grant  and  said 
the  Empress  had  commanded  him  to  translate  the  following 
address : 

"  I  congratulate  you  upon  your  safe  arrival  after  your 
long  journey.  I  presume  you  have  seen  very  many  inter- 
esting places.  I  fear  you  will  find  many  things  uncom- 
fortable here,  because  the  customs  of  the  country  are  so 
different  from  other  countries.  I  hope  you  will  prolong 
your  stay  in  Japan,  and  that  the  present  warm  days  may 
occasion  you  no  inconvenience." 

Mrs.  Grant,  pausing  a  moment,  said  in  a  low,  conversa- 
tional tone  of  voice,  with  animation  and  feeling: 

"  I  thank  you  very  much.     I  have  visited  many  coun- 


286  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

tries,  and  have  seen  many  beautiful  places,  but  I  have  seen 
none  so  beautiful  or  so  charming  as  Japan." 

The  reception  ceremonies  over,  our  partv  returned  to 
their  home  at  the  palace  Enriokv^an. 

All  day  during  the  Fourth,  visitors  poured  in  on  the 
General.  The  reception  of  so  many  distinguished  states- 
men and  officials  reminded  one  of  state  occasions  at  the 
White  House.  Princes  of  the  imperial  family,  princesses, 
the  members  of  the  Cabinet  and  citizens  and  high  officials, 
naval  officers,  Ministers  and  Consuls,  all  came;  and  car- 
riages were  constantly  coming  and  going.  In  the  evening 
there  was  a  party  at  one  of  the  summer  gardens,  given  by 
the  American  residents  in  honor  of  the  Fourth  of  July. 
The  General  arrived  at  half-past  eight  and  was  presented 
to  the  American  residents  by  Mr.  Bingham,  the  Minister. 
At  the  close  of  the  presentation,  Mr.  Bingham  made  a  brief 
but  singularly  eloquent  address.  Standing  in  front  of  the 
General,  and  speaking  in  a  low,  measured  tone  of  voice, 
scarcely  above  conversational  pitch,  the  Minister,  after 
words  of  welcome,  said : 

"In  common  with  all  Americans,  we  are  not  unmindful 
that  in  the  supreme  moment  of  our  national  trials,  when 
our  heavens  were  filled  with  darkness,  and  our  habitations 
were  filled  with  dead,  you  stood  with  our  defenders  in  the 
forefront  of  the  conflict,  and  with  them  amid  the  consum- 
ing fires  of  battle  achieved  the  victory  which  brought 
deliverance  to  our  imperiled  country.  To  found  a  great 
commonwealth,  or  to  save  from  overthrow  a  great  com- 
monwealth already  founded,  is  considered  to  be  the  greatest 
of  human  achievements.  If  it  was  not  your  good  fortune  to 
aid  Washington,  the  first  of  Americans  and  the  foremost 
of  men,  and  his  peerless  associates,  in  founding  the  Repub- 
lic, it  was  given  to  you  above  all  others  to  aid  in  the  no 
less  honorable  work  of  saving  the  Republic  from  over- 
throw."    Mr.    Bingham    continued    his    speech,   saying: 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  287 

"Now  that  the  sickle  has  fiillen  from  the  pale  hand  of 
Death  on  the  field  of  mortal  combat,  and  the  places  which 
but  yesterday  were  blackened  and  blasted  by  war  have 
grown  green  and  beautiful  under  the  hand  of  peaceful  toil; 
now  that  the  Republic,  one  and  undivided,  is  covered  with 
the  greatness  of  justice,  protecting  each  by  the  combined 
power  of  all,  men  of  every  land,  of  every  tongue;  the 
world,  appreciating  the  fact  that  your  civic  and  military 
services  largely  contributed  to  these  results,  so  essential  not 
only  to  the  interests  of  our  own  country  but  to  the  interests 
of  the  human  race,  have  accorded  to  you  such  honors  as 
never  before  within  the  range  of  authentic  history  have 
been  given  to  a  living,  untitled  and  unofficial  person.  I 
may  venture  to  say  that  this  grateful  recognition  of  your 
services  will  not  be  limited  to  the  present  generation  or 
the  present  age,  but  will  continue  through  all  ages.  In 
conclusion,  I  beg  leave  again  to  bid  you  welcome  to  Japan, 
and  to  express  the  wish  that  in  health  and  prosperity  you 
may  return  to  your  native  land,  the  land  which  we  all  love 
so  well." 

In  response,  General  Grant  said : 

"Ladies  and  Gentlemen:  lam  unable  to  answer 
the  eloquent  speech  of  Judge  Bingham,  as  it  is  in  so  many 
senses  personal  to  myself.  I  can  only  thank  him  for  his 
too  flattering  allusions  to  me  personally  and  the  duty 
devolving:  on  me  during-  the  late  war.  We  had  a  great 
war.  We  had  a  trial  that  summoned  forth  the  energies 
and  patriotism  of  all  our  people  —  in  the  army  alone  over  a 
million.  In  awarding  credit  for  the  success  that  crowned 
those  efforts,  there  is  not  one  in  that  million,  not  one  among 
the  living  or  the  dead,  who  did  not  do  his  share  as  I  did 
mine,  and  who  does  not  deserve  as  much  credit.  It  fell  to 
my  lot  to  command  the  armies.  There  were  many  others 
who  could  have  commanded  the  armies  better.  But  I  did 
my  best,  and  we  all  did  our  best,  and  in  the  fact  that  it  was 


2SS  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

a  struggle  on  the  part  of  the  people  for  the  Union,  for  the 
country,  for  a  country  for  themselves  and  their  children,  we 
have  the  best  assurances  of  peace,  and  the  best  reasons  for 
gratification  over  the  result.  We  are  strong  and  free 
because  the  people  made  us  so.  I  trust  we  may  long  con- 
tinue so.  I  think  we  have  no  issues,  no  questions  that  need 
give  us  embarrassment.  I  look  forward  to  peace,  to  gene- 
rations of  peace,  and  with  peace  prosperity.  I  never  felt 
more  confident  of  the  future  of  our  country.  It  is  a  great 
country  —  a  great  blessing  to  us  —  and  we  cannot  be  too 
proud  of  it,  too^zealous  for  its  honor,  too  anxious  to  develop 
its  resources,  and  make  it  not  only  a  home  for  our  children, 
but  for  the  worthy  people  of  other  lands.  I  am  glad  to 
meet  you  here,  and  I  trust  that  your  labors  will  be  prosper- 
ous, and  that  you  will  return  home  in  health  and  happiness. 
I  trust  we  may  all  meet  again  at  home,  and  be  able  to 
celebrate  our  Fourth  of  July  as  pleasantly  as  we  do  to- 
night." 

Dr.  McCartee,  who  presided,  made  a  short  address,  pro- 
posing as  a  toast,  "The  Day  We  Celebrate."  To  this 
General  Van  Buren  made  a  patriotic  and  ringing  response, 
making  amusing  references  to  Fourth  of  July  celebrations 
at  home,  and  paying  a  tribute  to  the  character  and  military 
career  of  General  Grant.  General  Van  Buren's  address 
was  loudly  applauded,  as  were  also  other  speeches  of  a  pat- 
riotic character.  There  were  fireworks  and  feasting,  and, 
after  the  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  retired,  which  they  did 
at  midnight,  there  was  dancing.  It  was  well  on  to  the 
morning  before  the  members  of  the  American  colony  in 
Tokio  grew  weary  of  celebrating  the  anniversary  of  our 
Declaration  of  Independence. 

On  the  morning  of  July  7,  General  Grant  reviewed  the 
army  of  Japan.  Great  preparations  had  been  made  to 
have  it  in  readiness,  and  all  Tokio  was  out  to  see  the 
pageant.     The  review  of   the  army  by  the   Emperor  in 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  389 

itself  is  an  event  that  causes  a  sensation.  But  the  review 
of  the  army  by  the  Emperor  and  the  General  was  an  event 
which  had  no  precedent  in  the  Japanese  history.  The 
hour  for  tlie  review  was  nine,  and  at  half  past  eight  the 
clatter  of  horsemen  and  the  sound  of  bugles  was  heard  in 
the  palace  grounds.  In  a  few  moments  the  Eiriperor's 
state  carriage  drove  up,  the  drivers  in  scarlet  livery,  and 
the  panels  decorated  with  the  imperial  flower,  the  chrysan- 
themum. General  Grant  entered,  accompanied  by  Prince 
Dati,  and  the  cavalry  formed  a  hollow  square,  and  their 
procession  moved  on  to  the  field  at  a  slow  pace.  A  drive 
of  twenty  minutes  brought  them  to  the  parade  ground,  a 
large  open  plain,  the  soldiers  in  line,  and  behind  the  soldiers 
a  dense  mass  of  people  —  men,  women  and  children.  As 
the  General's  procession  slowly  turned  into  the  parade 
ground,  a  group  of  Japanese  officers  rode  up  and  saluted, 
the  band  played  "  Hail  Columbia,"  and  the  soldiers  pre- 
sented arms.  Two  tents  had  been  arranged  for  the  reccp- 
ception  of  the  guests.  In  the  larger  of  the  two  were 
assembled  officers  of  state,  representatives  of  foreign  jDowers, 
Governor  Hennessy,  of  Hong  Kong,  all  in  bright,  glowing 
uniforms.  The  smaller  tent  was  for  the  Emperor.  When 
the  General  dismounted,  he  was  met  by  the  Minister  of 
war  and  escorted  into  the  smaller  tent.  In  a  few  minutes 
the  trumpets  gave  token  that  the  Emperor  was  coming,  and 
the  band  played  the  Japanese  national  air.  His  Majesty 
was  in  a  state  carriage,  surrounded  with  horsemen  and 
accompanied  by  one  of  his  Cabinet.  As  the  Emperor 
drove  up  to  the  tent.  General  Grant  advanced  to  the  car- 
riage steps  and  shook  hands  with  him,  and  they  entered  and 
remained  a  few  minutes  in  conversation. 

At  the  close  of  the  review.  General  Grant  and  party 

drove  off"  the  ground  in  state,  and  were  taken  to  the  Shila 

palace.     This  palace  is  near  the  sea,  and,  as  the  grounds 

are  beautiful  and  attractive,  it  was  thought  best  that  the 

19 


290  GENERAL    U.    S.    GKANT's 

breakfast  to  be  given  to  General  Grant  by  His  Majesty 
should  take  place  here.  The  Emperor  received  the  Gen- 
eral and  party  in  a  large,  plainly  furnished  room,  and  led 
the  way  to  another  room,  where  the  table  was  set.  The 
decorations  of  the  table  were  sumptuous  and  royal.  Gen- 
eral Grant  sat  on  one  side  of  the  Emperor,  whose  place 
was  in  the  centre.  Opposite  was  Mrs.  Grant,  who  sat 
next  to  Prince  Arinagawa,  the  nearest  relative  to  the  Em- 
peror, and  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  army.  The 
guests,  in  addition  to  the  General's  party,  were  as  follows: 
Her  Imperial  Highness  Princess  Aimayaura,  their  Impe- 
rial Highnesses  Prince  and  Princess  Higashi  Fushimi,  Mr. 
Saujo,  Prime  Minister;  Mr.  Iwakura,  Junior  Prime  Min- 
ister; Mr.  Okunea,  Finance  Minister;  Mr.  Oki,  Minister 
of  Justice;  Mr.  Terasnima,  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs; 
Mr.  Ite,  Home  Minister;  Lieutenant-General  Yamagata, 
Lieutenant-General  Kuroda,  Minister  of  Colonization; 
Lieutenant-General  Saigo,  Minister  of  War;  Vice- Admiral 
Kawamusa,  Minister  of  Marine;  Mr.  Inonye,  Minister  of 
Public  Works;  Mr.  Tokadaifi,  Minister  of  the  Imperial 
Household;  Mr.  Mori,  Vice-Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs; 
Mr.  Yoshida,  Envoy  to  the  United  States;  Mr.  Sagi,  Vice- 
Minister  of  the  Imperial  Household;  Mr.  Yoshie,  Chief 
Chamberlain;  Mr.  Bojo,  Master  of  Ceremonies;  Prince 
Hachisuka,  Prince  Dati,  Mr.  Insanmi  Naboshima,  Mr. 
Bingham,  and  Mrs.  Bingham;  Ho-a-Chang,  the  Chinese 
Minister;  Mr.  Mariano  Alvaray,  Spanish  Charge  d' Af- 
faires; Baron  Rozen,  Russian  Charge  d'AfFaires;  JSI.  de 
Balloy,  French  Charge  d'AfFaires;  Governor  Pope  Hen- 
nessy,  and  Mrs.  Hennessy. 

The  Emperor  conversed  a  great  deal  with  General 
Grant  through  Mr.  Yoshida,  and  also  Governor  Hennessy. 
His  Majesty  expressed  a  desire  to  have  a  private  and 
friendly  conference  with  the  General,  which  it  was  ar- 
ranged should  take  place  after  the  General's  return  from 


TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD.  29I 

Nikko.  The  feast  lasted  for  a  couple  of  hours,  and  the 
view  from  the  table  was  charming.  Beneath  the  window 
was  a  lake,  and  the  banks  were  bordered  with  grass  and 
trees.  Cool  winds  came  from  the  sea,  and,  although  in  the 
heart  of  a  great  capital,  they  were  as  secluded  as  in  a  forest. 
At  the  close  of  the  breakfast,  cigars  were  brought,  and  the 
company  adjourned  to  another  room.  Mrs.  Grant  had  a 
long  conversation  with  the  princesses,  and  was  charmed 
with  their  grace,  their  accomplishments,  their  simplicity, 
and  their  quiet,  refined  Oriental  beauty.  At  three  o'clock 
the  imperial  party  withdrew,  and  the  guests  drove  home 
to  their  palace  by  the  sea. 

Entertainments  in  honor  of  General  Grant  were  con- 
stantly occupying  joublic  attention.  He  visited  the  various 
colleges,  and  pronounced  the  cadets  of  the  military  school 
as  promising  a  body  as  any  seen  by  him  in  Europe.  He 
witnessed  the  annual  ceremony  of  the  opening  of  the 
principal  river  of  Tokio,  which  consisted  of  a  brilliant  night 
congregation  of  illuminated  boats,  and  the  most  successful 
of  all  displays  in  his  honor,  a  theatrical  performance, 
especially  prepared. 

On  July  17,  General  Grant  and  party  went  to  the  shrine 
of  lyeyasu,  the  founder  of  the  great  Tokugausa  family,  at 
Nikko,  a  famous  and  sacred  resort  one  hundred  miles  in 
the  interior.  After  spending  nearly  three  weeks,  enjoying 
a  delightful  time,  the  General  returned  to  the  caj^ital,  and 
started  on  a  new  excursion  to  Kamakara,  the  ancient  seat 
of  military  government,  and  its  neighborhood,  and  in  the 
mountain  range  of  Hakone. 

General  Grant  returned  to  Tokio,  August  19th.  During 
his  stay  at  Tokio  he  was  visited  by  the  Mikado,  who  con- 
sulted on  many  important  points  of  international  policy, 
and  to  some  extent  of  domestic  policy.  The  confidence 
and  reliance  manifested  by  the  government  and  people 
were  unprecedented. 


293  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

General  Grant  found  himself  burdened  with  unexpect- 
ed questions  in  relation  to  Eastern  policy.  During  his  visit 
to  North  China  both  Prince  Kung  and  the  Viceroy,  L. 
Hung  Chang,  laid  before  him  their  side  of  the  Loochoo 
controversy,  asking  him  to  use  his  influence  with  Japan  to 
prevent  a  serious  misunderstanding  between  the  two  Em- 
pires. The  General  is  believed  to  have  replied  that  the  other 
side  would  doubtless  express  themselves  as  strongly  from 
their  standpoint  when  heard,  and,  though  a  rupture  would 
be  lamented  by  all  observers,  he  did  not  see  that  he  had 
any  right  to  interfere.  The  Japanese  authorities  on  hearing 
this  took  great  pains  to  prepare  a  documentary  vindication 
of  their  claims,  which  was  submitted  for  the  ex- President's 
inspection  by  the  Cabinet.  This  appearance  of  over- 
anxiety  does  not  commend  itself  strongly  to  spectators 
generally,  JajDan's  supremacy  over  the  Loochoo  Islands 
being  so  plainly  defined  and  thoroughly  established  as  to 
need  no  superfluous  demonstration.  But  the  circumstances 
are  interesting  as  showing  the  weight  attached  to  General 
Grant's  influence  and  the  favorable  view  taken  of  that 
gentleman  by  both  governments. 

General  Grant  had  now  reached  the  end  of  his  journey 
and  stay  in  Japan.  He  had  been  nearly  two  months  with- 
in her  Empire;  had  witnessed  the  most  enthusiastic  and 
the  most  spontaneous  demonstrations  of  his  trip,  from  first 
to  last;  he  had  been  accorded  more  privileges  such  as  no 
other  ruler  or  potentate  had  ever  enjoyed. 

After  exchanging  a  series  of  formal  visits,  and  a  delight- 
ful round  of  dinners,  receptions  and  entertainments,  the 
General  and  party  embarked  from  Yokohama  on  board  the 
steamer  Tokio,  September  3,  for  the  United  States, 
There  were  men-of-war  of  various  nations  in  the  harbor, 
each  of  which  manned  their  yards  and  fired  salutes  of  fare- 
Avell.  For  half  an  hour  the  bay  rang  with  the  roar  of 
cannon,  and  was  clouded   with   smoke.      The  scene  was 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  *3II 

-wonderfully  grand  —  the  roar  of  cannon,  the  clouds  of 
smoke  wandering  off  over  the  waters,  the  stately,  noble 
vessels  streaming  with  flags,  the  yards  manned  with  sea- 
men, the  guards  on  deck,  the  officers  in  full  uniform 
gathered  on  the  quarter-deck  to  salute  the  General  as  he 
passed,  the  music  and  the  cheers  which  came  from  the 
ships,  the  crowds  that  clustered  upon  the  wharfs,  all  formed 
a  sight  that  once  seen  can  never  be  forgotten.  To  the 
General  and  party  this  enthusiastic  demonstration  will  ever 
be  recalled  with  grateful  remembrance,  and  was  a  fitting 
climax  of  his  now  historical  "  tour  around  the  world." 


*  Eighteen  pages  are  here  added  to  correct  omission  in  paging 
the  illustrations. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


GENERAL    GRANT'S    RETURN. 

After  an  absence  of  over  two  years,  General  Grant  is 
on  his  way  back  to  the  United  States,  leaving  sailed  from 
Tokio  on  September  3,  1S79,  and  will  reach  San  Francisco 
about  the  2 1  St.  During  this  period  he  has  visited  almost  every 
European  capital,  and  has  seen  with  his  own  eyes  the  peo- 
ple of  every  nation.  Everywhere  —  in  England,  Ireland 
and  Scotland,  in  France  and  German^',  Italy  and  Austria, 
in  Switzerland,  as  in  Sweden  and  Denmark,  Russia  and 
Egypt,  as  in  India  and  Siam,  China  and  Japan  —  he 
has  been  welcomed  by  rulers  and  people  alike,  in  a  manner 
and  with  a  splendor  and  fervor  of  hospitality  which  have 
rightly  been  felt,  by  the  mass  of  the  American  people,  as 
not  merely  a  compliment  to  the  General  and  ex-President, 
but  as  a  gratifying  evidence  of  good  will  toward  us  as  a 
people.  It  is  not  pleasant  to  reflect  that,  while  he  was  thus 
received  and  honored  abroad,  here  at  home  there  have  not 
')een  wanting  carping  critics  who  indulged  in  petty  fault 
.inding  with  his  conduct,  as  though  they  were  jealous  of 
the  honors  paid  him  —  fortunately  for  our  credit  as  Ameri- 
cans, however,  this  carping  spirit  has  not  been  general.  The 
public  sense  of  propriety  has  frowned  it  down.  It  would  have 
been  more  gracious  and  more  creditable  to  our  people  had 
there  been  no  such  criticism  and  fault  finding.  While 
General  Grant  was  President,  he  was,  as  every  man  in 
public  office  is,  the  subject  of  comment;  his  acts  were  the 
proper  objects  of  criticism.      But  when   he  laid  down  the 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  313 

presidential  office  and  retired  to  private  life  —  it  has  always 
been  thought  and  held  that  he  ceased  to  be,  in  any  proper 
sense,  a  subject  of  adverse  public  comment.  When  he 
went  abroad  it  was,  as  is  well  known,  in  pursuLUice  of  a 
design  he  had  long  entertained,  and  which  he  would  earlier 
have  accomplished  had  not  public  duties  detained  him  at 
home.  That  he  was  received  with  extraordinary  honors 
everywhere  in  Europe  and  Asia  was  due  not  only  to  the 
exalted  positions  he  had  filled,  but  to  the  world-wide  ap- 
preciation of  the  fact  that  under  his  skillful  and  vigorous 
command  the  greatest  war  of  modern  times  had  been 
brought  to  a  successful  conclusion,  and  the  security  and  in- 
tegrity of  the  American  Union  assured.  His  reception  by 
people  and  rulers  abroad  was  thus  a  token  of  universal 
good  will,  not  merely  toward  the  General,  but  toward  the 
nation  of  which  he  was  one  of  the  chief  citizens,  and  it 
was  not  a  gracious  act  in  any  American  to  raise  his  voice 
in  criticism  of  General  Grant  or  of  the  honors  showered 
on  him. 

The  friends  of  General  Grant  viewed  with  alarm  and 
disgust  certain  officious  preparations  ostentatiously  making 
here  for  his  welcome  home.  The  plan  of  a  monster  excur- 
sion under  the  auspices  of  notorious  politicians,  when  they 
were  to  furnish  tickets  to  the  Pacific  coast  and  return  for 
twenty-five  dollars  —  fully  expecting  that  fifty  thousand 
persons  would  embrace  the  opportunity  to  witness  the 
General's  reception  —  and  the  ill  advised  motions  of  other 
politicians,  in  the  New  York  and  Pennsylvania  Legislat- 
ure§,  in  the  same  direction,  were  in  the  worst  possible  taste ; 
and  it  is  believed  that  none  of  the  real  friends  of  General 
Grant  took  any  part  in  them,  but  tried  to  discourage  them 
in  every  way.  It  was  as  an  American,  and  not  as  a  Re- 
publican politician,  that  General  Grant  received  his  spon- 
taneous, honorable  and  gratifying  welcome  in  every  foreign 
land  that  he  visited;  and  it  is  as  an  American,  and  not  as 


314  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

a  Republican  politician,  that  we  are  confident  he  desires  to 
be  welcomed  home.  Hence,  as  before  written,  the  politicians 
ought  to  be  made  to  keep  their  hands  off.  Their  help  and 
management  are  not  needed  to  secure  the  General  a  rous- 
ing and  real  welcome  from  his  countrymen.  Their  officious 
interference,  which  looked  as  though  the\'  feared  that  with- 
out their  manipulations  the  General  might  not  be  well 
received,  was  an  offi^nse  to  him,  and,  if  it  had  been  per- 
severed in,  could  not  fail  to  place  him  in  a  painful  and 
even  ridiculous  position.  Commenting  on  this  intended 
hippodrome  performance,  the  Utica  (N.  Y.)  Herald  said: 
"Manufactured  enthusiasm  is  always  ridiculous;  and  it 
will  be  easy  to  make  the  reception  of  General  Grant  ridic- 
ulous in  the  eyes  of  the  American  people.  When  the  late 
Secretary  Seward  returned  from  a  similar  trip  abroad, 
where  he  was  greeted  with  honors  hardly  less  generous 
than  those  extended  to  Grant,  he  had  a  welcome  to  his 
home  in  Auburn,  which  made  a  profound  impression  upon 
the  country,  for  there  was  visible  in  it  the  sincere  personal 
esteem  of  his  friends  and  neighbors,  and  the  suspicion  of 
an  ulterior  purpose  did  not  enten  Somewhat  similar  ought 
to  be  the  welcome  extended  to  the  first  public  man  of  the 
United  States  who  has  made  the  tour  of  the  world  since 
William  H.  Seward  returned.  We  believe  that  General 
Grant  himself  will  be  least  pleased  with  a  grand  reception. 
He  is  singularly  averse  to  the  blare  and  glamour  of  care- 
fully arranged  demonstrations.  Notwithstanding  his 
remarkable  public  experiences,  he  has  retained  that  sim- 
plicity of  taste  and  habit  which  distinguished  him  in  the 
days  of  his  obscurity.  He  hates  the  formality  of  a  demon- 
stration. He  has  suffered  more  annoyance,  we  dare  say, 
from  the  excessive  formality  under  which  he  has  been  com- 
pelled to  make  his  travels,  than  from  any  other  cause. 
He  hates  speech  making,  for  he  has  sense  enough  to  know 
that  he  is  not  felicitous  at  it.     It  would  not  be  surprising  if 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  315 

the  ex-President's  antipathy  to  parade  led  him  to  positively 
interdict  any  such  uproar  over  his  return  as  has  been  out- 
lined." 

The  Cincinnati  Star  said,  speaking  of  the  same  sub- 
ject: "There  is  not  the  least  ^probability  that  General 
Grant  will  end  his  voyage  around  the  world  by  allowing 
himself  to  be  used  as  a  side-show  to  a  circus  on  wheels. 
The  cheap  excursion  mania  is  very  strong  among  the  Amer- 
ican people,  whether  it  be  to  visit  some  famous  natural 
scenery,  to  attend  a  horse  race,  or  see  a  two-headed  bab}'; 
and  a  band  of  speculators  have  lately  learned  how  to  make 
money  out  of  this  tendency,  in  the  American  beehive,  to 
swarm  during  the  hot  inonths  of  summer.  It  is  assumed 
as  quite  certain  that  Ge.neral  Grant  will  give  the  cold 
shoulder  to  any  such  ovation  as  this  contcmjolated,  and  that 
he  will  have  both  sense  and  monev  enousrh  to  remain 
quietly  in  San  Fi'ancisco  until  the  locust-like  storm  shall 
blow  over,  and  the  tired  and  disgusted  excursionists  seek 
their  homes." 

There  is  not  an  admirer  or  friend  of  General  Grant 
who  wants  to  see  the  General's  return  made  a  sort  of  hip- 
podrome performance,  exactly  the  reverse  of  the  compli- 
ments paid  to  him  abroad.  The  object  of  foi"eign  nations 
and  governments  in  honoring  him  was  to  -pay  a  compli- 
ment to  the  American  people,  whom  he  in  a  certain  sense 
represented;  but  the  object  of  this  excursion,  and  of  the 
more  recent  political  movements  In  legislature,  was  only  to 
glorify  him  as  a  party  man,  and  a  possible  party  candidate; 
and  to  place  him  under  obligation  beforehand  to  the  poli- 
titians  who  would  rush  forward  to  capture  him  as  he 
landed;  and  to  exhibit  him  through  the  country  as  their 
prey,  in  a  manner  which  would  leave  the  managers  open  to 
ridicule  and  make  a  burlesque  of  his  whole  journey. 

There  was  really  no  danger  or  fear  that  the  General's 
real  and  respectable  friends  would  allow  him  to  become  a 


2l6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

victim  of  such  people.     That  he  will  i-eceive  a  warm  and 
universal  welcome  from  his  countrymen  there  is  no  doubt, 
and  he  deserves  it;  but  it  will  not  be  managed  by  self-seek- 
ing and  designing  politicians.     It  will  be  a  spontaneous, 
hearty,  unsolicited  welcome  from   the  American    people. 
His  friends  would  prefer  to  see  him  make  the  journey  from 
the  Pacific  shores  to  his  home  in  Philadelphia,  as  he  will, 
doubtless,  prefer  himself,  with  entire  avoidance  of  ostenta- 
tion, like  a   great  and  eminent,  but  nevertheless  a  plain, 
citizen  rcturnins:  to  his  native  land  after  a  visit  to  foreign 
countries.     It  would  be  ungracious  in  him  to  deny  his  fel- 
low-citizens a  sight  of  him,  and  he  has  now  come  to  that 
age  where    traveling    by  easy  stages,  instead  of   rushing 
through  on  lightning  express,  is  for  his  comfort  and  that 
of   IMrs.  Grant.     He  will  find    in  the    principal  Western 
cities  many  of  his  old,  personal  friends,  who  will  desire  to 
once  more  shake  his  hand.     In  a  natural  way  —  without 
the  distasteful  management  of  tricksters  and  politicians  — 
the  General  can  see  and  be  seen  by  the  greater  part  of  the 
country,  and  he  will  receive  everywhere  the  warmest  wel- 
come an  admiring  and  hospitable  people  can  give  him.    No 
sensible  man  doubts  that  General  Grant's  name  and  fame 
are  dear  to  every  true  American,  or  that  he  ranks  in  all 
hearts  as  the  foremost  American  citizen  of  the  day.     His 
o-reat  and  long:  services  to  the  Union  have  secured  to  him 
the  lasting,  and  indeed  the  increasing,  gratitude  and  admi- 
ration of  the  people.     His  sterling  qualities  of  honesty  and 
clear  common  sense;   his  patriotic  love  for    his  country's 
welfare,  and  desire  for  the  success  of  our  institutions;  his 
severe  and  arduous,  and  often  thankless  public  service;  the 
pathetic  manner  in  which,  on  several  occasions,  he  has  pub- 
licly confessed  his  mistakes  wdille  asserting  his  good  inten- 
tions;—  all  these  are  known  to  and  valued  by  the  people, 
and  it  is  a  sure  evidence  that,  though  he  was,  while  Presi- 
dent, the  subject  of  hostile  and  often  acrimonious  criticism, 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  3 1  ^^ 

no  sooner  did  he  leave  the  (to  him)  unhappy  politics,  than 
all  ill-will  disappeared,  and  he  resumed,  as  of  right,  his 
high  place  in  the  affectionate  regards  of  his  fellow-citizens^ 
without  regard  to  party.  He  returns  home  from  a  long 
journey  in  foreign  parts,  at  every  stage  of  which  the  hon- 
ors which  have  been  paid  him  by  eminent  persons  of  all 
classes  have  been  watched  with  pleasure  by  the  whole 
American  people;  but  the  most  distinguished  honors  of  his 
life  remain,  and  will  be  found  in  the  spontaneous  welcome 
home  of  his  fellow-citizens.  To  them,  now,  he  occupies 
a  quite  peculiar  position;  for,  whatever  designing  politicians 
may  propose,  to  the  people  he  is  a  citizen  who  has  hon- 
orably and  laboriously  fulfilled  his  term  of  faithful  public 
service,  and  whom,  for  the  rest  of  his  life,  they  will  regard,, 
not  as  a  jDartisan,  not  as  the  candidate  of  or  even  a  mem- 
ber of  a  party,  but  as  one  raised  above  party,  and  who,  liv- 
ing in  such  privacy  as  such  eminence  as  his  can  secure,  will 
be,  while  he  lives,  the  trusted  adviser  of  all  administra- 
tions. As  a  private  citizen,  the  most  illustrious  and  the 
most  trusted  of  the  Republic,  he  will  rise  constantly  higher 
in  the  general  esteem  and  affection,  and  it  will  be  the  de- 
light of  all  Americans  to  guard  and  honor  his  declining 
years.  But  to  re-enter  now  the  arena  of  partisan  politics 
would  be  to  imperil  his  great  reputation;  to  weaken  the 
hold  he  has  on  the  hearts  of  the  people ;  to  descend  to  the 
level  of  common  men  —  a  descent  into  the  mire  from  an 
elevation  rarely  attained  by  any  man  in  history.  Those 
who  would  temjDt  him  to  his  fall  are  not  his  friends,  but  his 
worst  and  most  dangerous  enemies. 

The  recent  statement  made  by  Rear  Admiral  Ammen  in 
regard  to  General  Grant's  intentions  for  the  future  definitely 
removes  the  latter  from  the  political  field.  x^dmiral 
Ammen's  statement  Is  entitled  to  much  reliance  for  several 
reasons.  The  Admiral  himself  is  a  man  of  hlcrh  character, 
who  would  not  make  so    important  an  assertion  without 


3l8  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

considering  himself  sure  of  the  facts;  he  has  been  on  terms 
of  close  personal  intimacy  with  Grant  during  life;  the 
circumstances  related  by  the  Admiral  bear  internal  evidence 
of  the  correctness  of  his  conclusion;  and,  finally,  General 
Grant's  disinclination  to  be  a  "  third-term  "  candidate  for 
the  Presidency  is  confirmed  by  others  in  a  position  to  know 
his  sentiments.  Among  the  evidences  of  this  determination 
is  General  Grant's  reply  to  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  Viceroy 
of  Tientsin,  when  the  latter  expressed  the  hope  that  his 
visitor  would  asraln  become  President  of  the  United  States. 
Grant's  words  on  that  occasion  were  as  follows: 

"  Your  Excellency  is  very  kind,  but  there  could  be  no 
wish  more  distateful  to  me  than  what  you  express.  I  have 
held  the  office  of  President  as  long  as  it  has  ever  been  held 
by  any  man.  There  are  others  who  have  risen  to  great  dis- 
tinction at  home,  and  who  have  earned  the  honor,  who  are 
worthy,  and  to  them  it  belongs,  and  not  to  me.  I  have  no 
claims  to  the  office.  It  is  a  place  distasteful  to  me,  a  place 
of  hardship  and  resjDonsibilities.  When  I  was  a  younger 
man  these  hardships  were  severe  and  never  agreeable. 
They  would  be  worse  now.  No  man  who  knows  what 
the  Presidency  imposes  would  care  to  see  a  friend  in  the 
office.  I  have  had  my  share  of  it,  —  have  had  all  the  hon- 
ors that  can  be  or  should  be  given  to  any  citizen,  and  there 
are  many  able  and  distinguished  men  who  have  earned  the 
*    office.     To  one  of  them  it  should  be  given." 

General  Grant  could  not  have  chosen  langfuasre  more 
emphatically  declaring  his  disinclination  to  be  a  candidate 
without  being  actually  offensive  to  the  American  people, 
and  there  is  no  reason  why  his  word  should  not  be  accepted 
as  honestly  conveying  the  meaning  which  they  imply. 

The  Hon.  E.  B.  Washburne  has  also  contributed  addi- 
tional confirmation  of  Grant's  purpose  through  a  private 
letter  from  Grant,  written  still  more  recently,  in  which  the 
latter  declares  that  he  cannot  conceive  any  possible  circum- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  3I9 

stances  which  could  induce  him  to  consent  to  be  a  candi- 
date. Botli  General  Grant's  best  friends  and  his  most 
uncompromising  opponents  accept  the  declination  as  final; 
among  the  former  may  be  classed  Mn  George  W.  Chiids, 
of  Philadelphia,  and  among  the  latter  Mr.  Murat  Halstead^ 
of  Cincinnati.  Mr.  Chiids  says  that-  Grant's  recent  de- 
clarations comport  with  his  private  utterances  several  months 
ago,  and  he  has  no  doubt  that  they  express  Grant's  real 
sentiments.  Mr.  Halstead  also  reports  Grant  as  talking  in 
the  saine  way  when  both  were  in  Paris,  and  he  believes 
the  ex-President  to  be  sincere.  Indeed,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  Grant  has  repeatedly  given  expression  to  his  desire 
and  purpose  lo  retire  from  public  life,  and  there  is  no  good 
reason  to  discredit  his  sincerity.  Admiral  Ammen  affirms 
positively  that  the  General  will  take  the  Presidency  of  the 
American  Nicaragua  Inter-Ocean  Canal  Company,  and 
devote  his  energy  and  ability  to  the  construction  of  the 
highly  important  international  work  for  which  that  com- 
pany is  to  be  organized. 

The  story  of  General  Grant's  active  personal  Interest  in 
the  Nicaragua  International  Canal  scheme  may  be  briefly 
restated  as  follows: 

He  was  educated  at  West  Point  as  a  military  and  civil 
engineer.  When  he  became  President,  he  set  about  to  de- 
termine for  himself  the  best  route  for  a  water  connection 
between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  to  that  end  dispatched 
at  diflferent  times  several  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  to 
examine  the  several  proposed  routes.  His  investigation  led 
him  to  the  conviction  that  the  Nicaragua  Ship  Canal  will 
be  the  most  desirable  for  American  interests.  The  San 
Juan  River,  connecting  with  the  Nicaragua  Lake,  furnishes 
a  natural  water  route  most  of  the  way  across  the  isthmus, 
and  there  will  be  only  a  strip  on  the  west  side  of  some 
seven  or  eight  miles  wide  to  cut  through.  These  conditions 
will  render  the  work  far  cheaper  than  the  proposed  deep- 


S^O  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

cut  canal  upon  a  level  with  the  sea  across  Panama.  The 
Nicaragua  route  also  saves  some  seven  hundred  or  eight 
hundred  miles  of  ocean  travel  as  far  as  American  ships  are 
■concerned  —  about  three  hundred  miles  on  the  Atlantic  and 
four  hundred  or  five  hundred  miles  on  the  Pacific  in  going 
from  an  American  Atlantic  port  to  a  Pacific  port,  or  to 
China  or  Japan.  The  fact  that  the  Nicaragua  route  w^ill 
"be  longer  than  the  Panama  route  is  more  than  oflTset  by  the 
saving  in  time  and  cost  by  the  reduced  ocean  voyage. 
General  Grant's  convictions  in  the  matter  were  strengfth- 
-ened  by  the  information  he  obtained  during  his  European 
tour.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  Paris  conference  on  the 
Isthmus  Canal,  Admiral  Ammen  wrote  to  General  Grant 
e.  clear  statement  of  the  case,  urging  him  to  consent  to  serve 
as  President  of  an  American  company  for  the  Nicaragua 
route.  In  the  same  inclosure,  xA-mmen  sent  Grant  a  letter 
he  had  received  from  an  American  politician,  insisting  that 
Grant  must  hold  himself  free  to  run  as  the  Republican  can- 
didate for  President,  and  also  his  (Ammen's)  reply  to  that 
letter,  in  which  the  position  was  taken  that  Grant's  services 
in  the  arm}^  and  as  President  should  exempt  him  from  any 
further  demands  on  the  part  of  the  public.  About  the  time 
Grant  had  received  these  letters,  he  had  the  interview  with 
the  Viceroy  of  Tientsin,  in  which  he  stated  emphatically 
that  he  would  not  again  be  a  candidate  for  the  Presidency 
of  the  United  States,  and  shortly  after  he  telegraphed 
Admiral  Ammen  the  two  words,  "  I  approve."  Admiral 
Ammen  adds: 

"  These  letters  are  of  a  private  character,  and  I  do  not 
desire  that  they  should  go  out  to  the  public  for  the  present. 
It  is  hardly  necessary  for  me  to  assure  you  that  the  enter- 
prise is  in  the  hands  of  men  whose  reputation  is  unques- 
tioned, and  whose  interest  in  promoting  the  work  will  be 
greatly  increased  now  that  they  know  that  General  Grant 
is  committed  to  its  success.      You  know  my  views  on  this 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  32 1 

subject.  They  were  made  public  through  my  letter  to  the 
Secretary  of  State  a  month  ago.  It  would  not  be 
proper  for  me  to  enter  into  details  regarding  the  organiza- 
tion just  at  present.  I  may  say,  now  that  General  Grant's 
wishes  are  known  or  will  be  known  when  the  focts  I  have 
given  you  are  made  public,  that  a  new  company  will  be 
r:ipidly  formed  in  this  country  which  will  include  in  its 
ranks  the  leading  capitalists  of  our  own  and  European 
nations,  whose  purpose  will  be  to  construct  the  inter- 
oceanic  canal  under  the  leadership  of  General  Grant." 

On  the  Sth  of  September,  Admiral  Ammen  received  a 
letter  from  General  Grant  in  reply  to  his  letter  of  July  2, 
in  which  the  Admiral  urged  upon  his  friend  the  importance 
of  allowing  the  use  of  his  name  as  one  of  the  corporators 
for  an  inter-oceanic  canal  company  via  Nicaragua,  and,  if 
elected  by  the  corporators,  to  assent  to  the  proposition  to 
serve  as  president  of  the  campany.  Deeming  it  important 
to  hear  from  General  Grant  at  the  earliest  moment,  he 
suggested  that  if  the  proposition  met  his  approbation  he 
should  telegraph  "  I  approve."  General  Grant  acknowl- 
edges the  receipt  of  the  letter,  and  states  that  on  August  7 
he  telegraphed  as  suggested,  in  order  that  it  might  be  a 
sufficient  basis  for  Admiral  Ammen  to  take  the  preliminary 
steps  for  the  beginning  of  a  movement  which  would  effect 
an  org-anization  for  the  building  of  a  canal.  He  then  adds 
that  he  has  given  the  subject  serious  consideration,  and  after 
two  days'  deliberation  he  is  fully  convinced  of  the  impor- 
tance of  acting  in  the  matter  promptly.  He  is  of  the 
opinion  that  great  care  should  be  exercised  in  the  formation 
of  the  company,  and,  when  properly  organized,  the  neces- 
sary steps  should  be  had  to  secure  from  the  Nicaraguan 
Government  such  concessions  as  will  make  the  undertaking 
a  practical  business  scheme.  When  these  are  secured  he 
would  be  glad  of  the  opportunity  to  devote  his  attention  to 
the  work,  and  would  accept  the  Presidency  of  the  Com- 


322  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

pany  with  the  determination  to  accomplish  the  task,  and 
to  that  end  would  exert  himself  to  push  the  work  as  rapidly 
as  the  surveys  and  engineering  skill  of  his  assistants  would 
permit.  The  letter  merely  repeats  what  the  General  has 
frequently  said  to  Admiral  Ammen  upon  the  importance 
of  obtaining  the  most  favorable  concessions  from  the 
Nicaraguan  Government,  in  order  that  the  enterprise  might 
enlist  capital  and  secure  the  protection  of  the  United  States. 
He  makes  no  allusion  to  politics  whatever  in  this  letter. 

He  expects  to  reach  San  Francisco  some  time  in  Sep- 
tember, and  be  in  Philadelphia  in  November,  when  the 
business  matter  can  be  talked  over  leisurely,  and  definite 
arrangements  made  for  inaugurating  the  company. 

Exceptions  have  been  taken  to  the  statement  made, 
that  the  quiet  purpose  General  Grant  had  in  view  during 
his  tour  through  Europe  was  to  learn  for  himself  what 
encouragement  the  construction  of  an  inter-oceanic  canal 
would  receive  from  European  capitalists,  if  the  enterprise 
were  in  American  hands.  That  statement  was  based  upon 
the  correspondence  which  General  Grant  had  with  a  prom- 
inent officer  of  our  army,  and  to  whom  he  wrote  fully  from 
time  to  time  during  his  stay  in  Europe  as  to  what  he  heard 
and  learned  on  the  subject.  In  addition  to  this,  just  before 
he  left  the  United  States,  he  had  a  long  interview  with 
President  Hayes,  which  was  wholly  devoted  to  this  inter- 
oceanic  canal  project.  He  explained  to  his  successor  his 
personal  interest  in  the  scheme,  and  a,ll  he  had  done  during 
his  administration  to  forward  the  surveys.  He  regretted 
that  he  had  not  been  able  to  accomplish  more  than  to  finish 
the  numerous  surveys,  but  thought  that  this  perfect  work 
was  a  great  step  in  the  direction  of  settling  the  route  to  be 
chosen,  and  that  he  was  satisfied  that  the  Nicaragua  line  was 
the  feasible  one  upon  which  to  build  the  canal.  He  com- 
mended Admiral  Ammen's  interest  in  the  project,  and  told 
the  President  that  he  had  recalled  him  from  a  foreign  sta- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  323 

tion  and  appointed  him  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Navigation  in 
the  navy  department,  that  he  might  be  in  a  position  where 
he  could  give  his  zeal  unlimited  sway  in  furthering  the  am- 
bition of  both  the  Admiral  and  himself,  which  was  to  deter- 
mine accurately  and  as  speedily  as  possible  the  best  route 
by  which  the  two  oceans  could  be  connected  for  the  pur- 
pose of  commerce.  He  regretted  that  he  had  not  been  able 
to  do  more,  but  was  glad  that  so  much  had  been  accom- 
plished as  would  enable  President  Hayes  to  take  up  the 
subject  in  a  manner  that  warranted  the  hope  that,  during^ 
his  term  of  office,  something  would  be  done  to  practically 
utilize  the  labor  of  our  surveying  parties.  He  explained 
his  reasons  for  wishing  to  impress  upon  President  Haj^es 
his  great  interest  in  the  subject,  and  added  that  he  should 
not  lose  sight  of  it  during  his  travels  in  Europe.  He  was 
confident  that  his  experience  abroad  would  only  confirm 
the  belief  that  this  great  project  should  be  distinctly  Amer- 
ican, and  would  have  to  be  undertaken  by  American  engi- 
neers. So  favorably  did  the  President  receive  the  views  of 
General  Grant,  that,  when  the  news  came  of  the  decision 
of  the  Paris  Congress,  he  was  prepared  to  reiterate  the 
idea  of  the  General,  that  an  inter-oceanic  canal  must  be  an 
American  project  and  carried  out  by  American  enterprise^ 
expanding  the  Monroe  doctrine  in  a  broader  sense  than  had 
ever  been  thought  of  by  President  Monroe  or  John  Quincy 
Adams,  v/ho  is  credited  with  having  originated  it. 

In  explanation  of  the  apparent  neglect  of  the  matter. 
President  Hayes  said  that  he  was  expecting,  from  time  to 
time,  to  hear  of  the  results  which  General  Grant  would 
develop  in  his  visit  to  Euroj^e.  One  of  the  results  un- 
doubtedly was  the  necessity  which  the  French  engineers 
saw  they  were  under  to  anticipate  the  American  plan,  by 
calling  a  congress,  and  determining  before  its  meeting  to 
select  another  route.  Then  came  the  invitations  to  our 
20 


324  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

Government  to  send  delegates  to  the  Paris  Congress.  The 
matter  was  officially  considered  by  the  Cabinet,  and  it  was 
deemed  advisable  not  to  send  delegates,  but  to  have  repre- 
sentatives, who  should  merely  set  forth  the  work  already 
accomplished,  and  the  conclusions  formed  by  the  Commis- 
sion appointed  during  President  Grant's  administration 
upon  the  practicability  of  the  Nicaragua  route.  It  was 
argued  that,  if  we  sent  delegates,  our  Government  would 
be  held  by  the  decision  of  the  Congress,  which  was  to  be 
avoided  under  all  circumstances,  and  therefore  they  should 
not  go  in  an  official  capacity.  Time  was  consumed  before 
the  Congress  met,  and  then  followed  Rear- Admiral  Am- 
men's  prompt  action  in  acquainting  General  Grant  with 
the  exact  situation  of  affairs,  and  the  imjoortance  of  secur- 
ing his  co-operation.  "In  other  words,"  said  Pi'esident 
Hayes,  "  we  have  waited  patiently  for  the  time  to  come 
Avhen  General  Grant  would  give  shape  to  this  project,  and 
now  we  are  prepared  to  do  everything  in  our  power  to 
promote  its  success." 

It  is  not  surprising  that  General  Grant  has  determined 
not  to  re-enter  American  political  life.  A  man  w^ho  has 
had  so  brilliant  and  successful  a  career  as  he  has  had  must 
have  an  ambition  to  preserve  it  for  history,  and  it  would  be 
a  hazardous  experiment  to  resume  public  responsibilities. 
Giant  has  the  good  judgment  to  understand  this,  and  the 
poise  and  self-control  to  act  upon  it.  He  is  now  the 
"Great  Undefeated";  a  campaign  for  a  third  term  might 
hand  his  name  down  to  posterity  as  the  "  Great  Defeated." 

The  Nicaragua  International  project  opens  to  him  a 
field  worthy  of  his  ability.  His  name  and  energy  will  en- 
list the  necessary  capital  and  influence  to  give  the  Ameri- 
cans the  control  of  the  inter-oceanic  route,  and  the 
completion  of  such  a  scheme,  shortening  the  route  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts,  and  between  Europe  and 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  325 

the  Indies,  by  several  thousand  miles,  will  be  an  undertak- 
ing in  which  an  ex-President  of  the  United  States  may 
engage  with  credit  to  himself  and  honor  to  his  country. 

There  is  reason  both  to  commend  and  to  congratulate 
General  Grant  upon  the  stand  he  has  taken.  His  fame  is 
as  radiant  now  as  it  ever  can  be,  unless  some  new  danger 
shall  threaten  the  Republic  during  his  life,  and  in  that  case 
the  American  people  will  turn  to  him  with  such  unanimity 
and  confidence  that  he  will  be  in  no  doubt  as  to  his  duty. 

The  reception  of  General  Grant  upon  his  arrival  on  our 
shores  promises  to  be  a  magnificent  ovation,  a  spontaneous 
and  enthusiastic  reception  by  the  people  of  California, 
without  distinction  of  party.  Our  record  would  be  incom- 
plete without  giving  an  account  of  the  preparations  in 
progress. 

Mayor  Bryant,  of  San  Francisco,  in  comj^liance  with 
the  clearly  expressed  sentiment  of  the  citizens  of  that  city, 
has  named  a  number  of  the  prominent  citizens  to  confer 
with  the  Board  of  Supervisors  with  a  view  of  making 
preparations  for  a  suitable  reception  to  General  Grant. 
The  names  chosen  by  the  Mayor  in  this  connection  repie- 
sent  every  shade  of  political  opinion,  as  was  fitting  in 
arranging  for  a  demonstration  which  is  neither  democratic 
nor  republican  in  its  character,  but  purely  national  and 
patriotic.  The  list  embraces  men  of  all  parties  —  George 
C.  Perkins,  Samuel  Wilson,  W.  H.  L.  Barnes,  M.  S.  La- 
tham, Horace  Davis,  Eugene  Casserly  and  John  H.  Wise. 
Here  we  have  republicans  and  democrats,  inen  who  stood 
up  for  the  North  during  the  civil  war,  and  men  who  hon- 
estly sympathized  with  the  Confederate  cause.  Yet  now 
they  are  all  willing  to  ignore  political  differences,  and  old 
party  feuds,  and  to  unite  in  doing  honor  to  a  distinguished 
American  citizen,  whose  name  is  identified  with  the  history 
of  his  country,  and  whose  character  and  career  are  a  part 
of  her  historical  treasures.    As  is  eminently  fitting  on  such 


326  GENEKAL    U.    S.    GKAXT's 

an  occasion,  all  petty  political  animosities  disappear  for  the 
time,  and  the  most  eminent  citizens  of  San  Francisco,  with- 
out distmction  of  party,  will  unite  in  paying  honor  to  their 
distinguished  guest. 

The  watch  for  the  steamer  Tokio,  at  the  Cliff  House,, 
will,  upon  sighting  the  masts  of  the  steamer,  flash  the  in- 
telligence in  every  direction. 

Gradually  the  demonstration  undertaken  hy  the  citizens- 
of  San  Francisco,  in  honor  of  General  Grant,  has  swelled 
into  proportions  far  beyond  all  original  exj^ectations.  What 
was  designed  at  the  outset  to  be  a  welcome  by  the  people 
of  that  city  has  developed  into  a  grand  ovation  by  the 
people  of  the  State  of  California.  Deputations  from  Oak- 
land, Sacramento,  San  Jose,  Vallejo,  Petaluma,  the  far-off 
orange  groves  of  Los  Angeles,  and  a  hundred  other  cities 
and  towns  all  over  the  State,  and  even  from  some  l-seyond 
the  boundaries  of  California,  will  join  in  the  demonstration. 

The  preparations  fur  the  event  have  been  upon  such  a 
scale  of  magnificence  as  will  throw  all  previous  celebra- 
tions, not  excepting  that  of  the  Centennial  of  American 
Independence,  into  the  shade.  The  unanimity  of  feeling 
and  sentiment  that  is  manifested  by  all  classes  of  the  com- 
munity, without  regard  to  difTerences  of  political  opinion 
or  social  condition,  is  something  amazing,  and  altogether 
unprecedented.  The  soldiers  who  fought  for  the  Union,. 
and  those  who  upheld  the  cause  of  the  Confederacy,  will 
march  side  by  side  in  the  procession  in  honor  of  the  man 
of  whom  General  Lee  said :  "  I  have  no  hesitation  in  de- 
claring that,  both  as  a  gentleman  and  an  organizer  of  victo- 
rious war.  General  Grant  hath  excelled  all  your  most  noted 
soldiers.  He  has  exhibited  more  real  greatness  of  mind, 
more  consummate  prudence  from  the  outset,  more  heroic 
bravery,  than  anyone  on  your  side." 

A  telegram  from  San  Francisco,  dated  September  18,, 
says: 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  337 

"  The  preparations  are  now  complete.  All  the  neces- 
sary arrangements  are  perfected,  and  everything  is  ready 
for  the  reception  of  the  illustrious  guest." 

The  followmg  is  a  summary  of  what  may  be  expected 
aipon  the  arrival  of  the  Tokio,  as  telegraphed  from  San 
Francisco: 

When  the  City  of  Tokio  appears  in  the  offing,  she 
will  first  be  signaled  from  Point  Labos  to  the  Merchant's 
Exchange,  whence  the  news  will  be  disseminated.  The 
Bell  Telephone  Company  and  the  American  District  Tele- 
graph Company  will  be  notified,  and  they  will  inform  all 
their  stations,  and  the  individuals  with  whom  they  are  con- 
nected, and  the  flag  on  the  Exchange  Building  will  bo 
hoisted  at  once,  and  a  line  of  flags  stretched  from  the  staflf 
to  the  front  and  rear  of  the  roof.  The  officer  at  Point 
Labos  \vill  hoist  a  designated  signal,  thereby  informing  the 
commander  of  Fort  Point,  and  also  communicate  with  the 
Merchants'  Exchange,  and  Captain  Low,  who  is  in  charge  at 
the  Fort,  will  hoist  the  American  flag  and  also  use  signals. 
Alcatraz  and  Angel  Island  will  be  signaled  from  Fort 
Point,  if  necessary. 

Signal  guns  will  be  fired  from  the  Fort  Alcatraz  and 
Angel  Island  from  the  time  of  sighting  the  steamer,  and 
national  salutes  when  the  Tokio  passes  from  the  upper  and 
lower  Casemate  Batteries  at  the  Fort  Point,  Alcatraz  and 
Angel  Island. 

As  soon  as  the  news  is  received  at  the  Merchants' 
Exchange,  eleven  taps  will  be  given  three  times,  with  due 
intervals,  from  all  the  fire  alarm  bells  in  the  city.  Church 
bells  will  be  rung,  and  there  will  be  the  blowing  of  steam 
whistles  at  discretion.  As  soon  as  the  Tokio  is  sighted, 
the  Committee  of  Reception,  with  Jesse  Grant  and  Mr. 
Dent,  will  go  on  board  the  Millen  Griffiths  and  meet  her 
as  far  out  as  possible,  to  notify  General  Grant  of  the  prepa- 
rations being  made  to  welcome   him.      If  necessary,  they 


328  GENERAL    U.    S.    GUANt's 

will  detain  the  Tokio  until  the  marine  procession  can  be 
duly  formed.  Two  hours  will  be  allowed  after  the  first 
signal  for  the  starting  of  the  barge  steamers  of  the  escort. 

The  China  will  leave  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company's  dock,  and  returning,  disembark  her  passengers 
there.  The  St.  Paul  and  Ancon  will  leave  from  the  foot 
of  Broadway.  Much  criticism  has  been  excited  by  the 
arrangement  for  towing  the  yachts,  which,  as  they  are  the 
most  picturesque  craft  on  the  bay,  will  scarcely  be  rigidly 
adhered  to. 

The  Tokio  will  proceed  to  her  anchorage  just  south 
of  the  usual  line  of  the  Bakland  Ferry. 

As  soon  as  convenient  after  the  first  signal,  the  Execu- 
tive Committee  will  meet  Mayor  Bryant  in  parlor  160, 
Palace  Hotel,  wearing  red,  white  and  blue  rosettes,  and  in 
the  dress  already  specified.  From  the  hotel  they  will  take 
carriages  to  the  ferry  steamer.  City  of  Oakland,  which  will 
convey  them  to  the  Tokio  as  soon  as  sufficient  time  has 
elapsed  for  the  St.  Paul,  China,  Ancon  and  other  steamers 
to  have  disembarked  their  passengers,  who  will  take  their 
proper  places  in  the  procession. 

The  Oakland  will  run  alongside  the  Tokio,  and 
General  Grant  and  suite  will  be  transferred  to  her.  Mayor 
Bryant  will  deliver  his  brief  speech  of  welcome.  General 
Grant  will  reply.  Introductions  will  be  in  order,  and  the 
guest  and  committee  will  land  and  take  their  places  in  car- 
riages at  the  head  of  the  procession, 

Dennis  Kearney,  the  "  sand-lots "  braggart,  proposed^ 
in  one  of  his  violent,  intemperate  speeches  to  the  working- 
men  of  San  Francisco,  to  burn  General  Grant  in  effigy. 
Just  why  this  agitator  wished  to  burn  the  General  in  effigy 
is  not  plain.  Referring  to  this  subject,  the  Chicago  Inter 
Ocean  says: 

"  In  1S61  General  Grant  was  a  workingman  at  Galena,, 
in  this  State.     He  offered  his  services  to  the  Governor  of 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  329 

Illinois  in  any  capacity  where  he  might  he  useful,  and  his 
offer  was  accepted.  Through  the  long  years  that  followed^ 
the  Galena  workingman  maintained  a  modest  bearing,  and. 
never  boasted  of  his  deeds  or  selfishly  obtruded  himself 
upon  the  public.  He  became  the  foremost  man  of  the  age,, 
the  most  remarkable  soldier  of  modern  times,  the  twice- 
chosen  President  of  a  great  nation,  and  the  honored  guest 
of  almost  every  government  on  earth ;  but  still  his  modesty 
did  not  forsake  him,  and  he  never  for  a  moment  forgot 
that  his  country  was  a  republic  and  that  he  was  a  citizen 
of  that  republic. 

"  He  is  now  returning  from  his  long  absence  abroad, 
and  will  soon  land  upon  the  shores  of  the  country  he  did 
so  much  to  save.  The  people  with  almost  one  accord 
desire  to  do  him  honor;  but  Dennis  Kearney  proposes  to 
insult  him  and  insult  them  by  a  public  indignity  at  the 
place  where  General  Grant  disembarks,  and  on  the  day  of 
his  arrival. 

"There  are  some  things  that  try  the  patience  of  a  law- 
abiding  people  very  sorely,  and  this  is  one  of  them.  We 
do  not  know  where  Mr.  Kearney  was  during  our  long 
struggle  for  national  life,  or  what  his  services  were;  but 
we  take  it  for  granted  that  they  were  hardly  superior  to 
those  of  General  Grant,  and  that  the  people  of  San  Fran- 
cisco ought  to  be  able  to  express  their  gratitude  and  admi- 
ration for  a  great  soldier,  a  former  comrade,  and  an  ex- 
President  of  the  republic,  without  meeting  insult  from 
Kearney  or  his  followers.  San  Francisco  but  voices  the 
feeling  of  the  nation  in  extending  its  welcome  to  General 
Grant,  and  the  insult  which  Dennis  Kearney  contemplates 
is  an  insult  to  the  country  which  protects  his  own  carcass, 
from  violence,  which  shields  him  in  his  freedom  of  speech-- 
and  which  makes  it  possible  for  him  to  threaten  this  indig- 
nity without  being  kicked  into  the  Bay  of  San  Franciscc 


330  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

We  hope  Mr.  Kearney  will  think  better  of  his  propo- 
sition, and  abandon  it.  If  he  does  not,  the  cause  which  he 
advocates  will  receive  a  blow  in  this  country  from  which 
it  will  not  soon  recover.  The  workingmen  of  Chicago, 
who  believe  in  the  right  of  Americans  to  welcome  a  dis- 
tinguished citizen  without  a  public  insult  of  this  character, 
should  meet  and  promptly  denounce  the  proposed  out- 
rage." 

It  is  not  believed  that  this  silly  threat  will  be  carried 
out,  or  that  any  one  will  dare  attempt  to  carry  it  out. 
Even  the  most  rash  and  infatuated  of  his  deluded  followers 
must  realize  by  this  time  that  Dennis  perpetrated  a  mon- 
strous blunder  when  he  indul<red  in  that  outrasreous  and 


& 


disgusting  menace.  There  has  never  been  in  San  Fran- 
cisco a  more  unanimous  and  overwhelming  manifestation 
•of  popular  indignation  than  that  which  has  been  caused  by 
Kearney's  infamous  threat.  A  New  York  Herald  dis- 
patch of  September  14th,  says: 

"  On  the  sand-lots,  where  Kearney  belched  forth  the 
braggart  threat  that  he  would  burn  General  Grant  in  effigy, 
Confederate  and  Federal  will  meet  and  salute  the  honored 
citizen,  and  in  that  number  will  be  many  workingmen  them- 
selves who  have  listened  to  Kearney  for  the  last  time.  Nu- 
•merous  rumors  are  abroad  about  the  workingmen's  party  de- 
manding Kearney's  abdication.  To-day,  Wallock,  the  for- 
mer Vice-President  of  the  party,  tried  to  pass  resolutions 
pledging  the  workingmen  to  unite  with  all  loyal  citizens 
in  demonstrations  to  the  honor  of  General  Grant,  but 
Kearney  opposed  them  in  a  violent  speech,  still  evincing 
his  cowardice  over  the  effigy  business,  yet  without  manli- 
ness enough  to  avow  his  folly.  It  has,  however,  been  de- 
monstrated at  the  sand-lots,  to-day,  that  Kearney  has  given 
himself  his  death  wound.  San  Francisco  has  wiped  out 
the  reproach  of  Kearneyism." 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  33 1 

The  wisest  thing  which  the  sand-lot  agitator  will  do 
will  be  to  get  out  of  town  and  hide  himself  away  in  some 
rural  seclusion,  until  the  storm  which  he  has  evoked  by  his 
rashness  and  folly  shall  have  passed  over. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


ARRIVAL   OF    GENERAL    GRANT. 

The  steamer  City  of  Tokio,  in  which  General  Grant 
embarked  for  his  homeward  voyage,  arrived  in  the  harbor 
of  San  Francisco  on  Saturday  evening,  September  20. 
The  long-expectant  people  of  San  Francisco  had  been  for 
some  days  prepared  to  give  a  suitable  welcome  to  the  illus- 
trious soldier,  statcsnian  and  traveler,  who,  though  a  simple 
citizen,  occupies  a  larger  space  in  the  world's  regard  than 
the  proudest  contemporary  heirs  of  ancient  thrones.  The 
General's  arrival  at  San  Francisco  completes  his  journey 
"around  the  world."  In  San  Francisco  the  excitement 
over  his  oming  reached  fever  heat,  and  the  reception 
given  him  was  on  a  scale  of  magnificence  never  before 
seen  in  this  country. 

Every  one,  during  the  forenoon  of  Saturday,  was  on 
the  tip-toe  of  expectation  over  his  arrival.  The  city  was 
densely  crowded,  especially  the  hotels.  As  the  Tokio  did 
not  arrive  early  in  the  day,  it  was  generally  believed  that 
the  General  would  not  arrive  before  Sunday.  The  Re- 
ception Committee  were  discussing  the  propriety  of  post- 
poning the  reception  until  Monday,  when,  at  a  signal  given 
by  the  fire  brigade  that  the  City  of  Tokio  was  sighted,  the 
fire  bells  rang,  whistles  sounded,  and  the  thunder  of  cannon 
reverberated  over  the  hills  and  harbor,  and  a  general  uproar 
was  created. 

Every  kind  of  business  was  suspended,  and  people 
poured  forth  in  such  numbers  that  m  a  few  minutes  the 


GENERAL    ULYSSES    S.    GRANT. 
From  a  Photograph  taken  i.v  San  Francisco,  iMMEniATELV  upon  his  Rkturn, 

BY   I.    W.    FaBER. 


# 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  333. 

streets  were  densely  crowded  with  citizens  flocking  toward 
the  ferry  down  Market  street.  The  sun  was  sliining  brill- 
iantly, and  the  effect  upon  the  decorated  buildings,  arches 
and  flags  was  very  fine.  The  utmost  good  humor  pre- 
vailed; and,  as  evening  approached,  the  streets  were  lined 
with  people,  and  business  wholly  suspended,  and  the  city 
turned  out. 

Immediately  on  receipt  of  the  intelligence  that  the 
steamer  City  of  Tokio  was  nearing  port,  the  Reception 
Committee,  consisting  of  Frank  M.  Pixley,  ex-Senator 
Cole,  General  Miller  and  R.  B.  Cornwall,  repaired  to  the 
tug  Millen  Griffith,  lying  with  steam  up  at  the  Pacific  Mail 
dock,  and  at  once  started  to  meet  the  incoming  steamer. 
The  Millen  Griffith  stood  well  out  to  sea,  and  several  miles 
outside  the  Heads  met  the  City  of  Tokio  coming  in.  The 
tug  drew  alongside,  and  the  Executive  Committee,  quar- 
antine officer  and  customs  officials  and  a  number  of  repre- 
sentatives of  the  press,  boarded  the  steamer.  No  ceremony 
was  observed,  except  a  general  shaking  of  hands,  and  after 
the  committee  had  announced  the  object  of  their  visit,  and 
informed  General  Grant  of  the  reception  prepared  for  him, 
the  conversation  became  general,  as  the  City  of  Tokio 
continued  on  her  course.  Soon  after  the  government 
steamer  McPherson  came  alongside,  and  Major-General 
McDowell,  commanding  the  Division  of  the  Pacific,  ac- 
companied by  his  staff,  boarded  the  Tokio  and  rejoined  his 
old  comrade  in  arms. 

While  this  was  transpiring  the  general  Committee  of 
Arrangements,  with  several  thousand  invited  guests,  assem- 
bled on  board  the  large  side-wheel  Pacific  Mail  steamer 
China,  and  a  number  of  smaller  steamers,  while  tugs  took 
squadrons  of  the  San  Francisco  yacht  clubs  in  tow  and 
started  down  the  channel. 

In  the  meantime  it  seemed  as  though  the  whole  popu- 
lation of  the  city  —  men,  women  and  children  —  had  sought 


334  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT  S 

positions  from  which  a  view  of  the  naval  pageant  could  be 
obtained.  Every  eminence  commanding  the  channel  was 
black  with  assembled  thousands.  Telegraph  Hill  was  a 
living  mass  of  human  bodies,  and  the  heights  beyond  Pre- 
sidio, the  Clay  street  hill,  the  sea  wall  at  North  Point,  and 
every  pier-head,  were  covered  with  spectators. 

The  sun  was  declining  in  the  west  as  the  steamers  and 
yachts,  gay  with  bunting,  moved  down  the  channel.  Low 
clouds  hun<r  along;  the  western  horizon.  Mount  Tamauli- 
pas  and  the  distant  mountains  north  of  the  bay  were  veiled 
in  a  mist,  and  Mission  Hill  and  the  seaward  heights  of  the 
peninsula  were  shrouded  in  a  fog,  but  the  channel  was  un- 
obstructed, and  the  bold  outlines  of  the  Golden  Gate  rose 
sharply  against  the  sky,  while  the  bay  itself,  with  the 
islands  and  shores  of  Alameda  and  Contra  Costa  were 
bathed  m  sunlight.  From  every  flagstaff  in  the  city  flags 
were  flying,  and  the  shipping  along  the  city  front  was 
brilliantly  decked  with  ensigns,  festooned  flags  and  stream- 
ers. The  impatient  crowds  that  covered  the  hilltops  stood 
straining  their  eyes  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Tokio. 
A  hundred  times  the  cry  was  raised,  "  There  she  comes," 
as  chance  arrivals  came  in  view  between  the  Heads. 

It  was  half-past  five  o'clock  when  a  puflT  of  white 
smoke  from  seaward,  from  oflfthe  earth- works  back  of  and 
above  Fort  Point,  and  the  booming  of  a  heavy  gun,  an- 
nounced that  the  steamer  was  near  at  hand.  Another  and 
another  followed  in  rapid  succession.  Fort  Point  next 
joined  in  the  cannonade,  firing  with  both  casemate  and 
barbette  guns,  and  the  battery  at  Lime  Point  added  its 
thunders  to  the  voice  of  welcome.  In  a  few  moments  the 
entrance  to  the  harbor  was  veiled  in  wreaths  of  smoke, 
and  as  the  batteries  of  Angel  Island,  Black  Point  and  Al- 
catraz  opened  fire  in  succession,  the  whole  channel  was 
soon  shrouded  in  clouds  from  their  rapid  discharges.  For 
some  time  the  position  of  the   approaching  ship  could  not 


TOUR    AKOL'ND    THE    WORLD.  335 

be  discovered,  but  shortly  before  six  o'clock  the  outlines  of 
the  huge  hull  of  the  City  of  Tokio  loomed  through  the 
obscurity  of  smoke  and  rapidly  approaching  shades  of 
evening,  lit  up  by  the  flashes  of  guns,  and  in  a  few 
moments  she  glided  into  full  view,  surrounded  by  a  fleet 
of  steamers  and  tugs,  gay  with  flags  and  crowded  with 
guests,  while  the  yacht  squadron  brought  up  the  rear, 
festooned  from  deck  to  truck  with  brilliant  bunting.  Cheer 
after  cheer  burst  from  the  assembled  thousands  as  the  ves- 
sels slowly  rounded  Telegraph  Hill,  and  were  taken  up  by 
the  crowds  on  the  wharves  and  rolled  around  the  city 
front,  hats  and  handkerchiefs  being  waived  in  the  air.  The 
United  States  steamer  Monterey,  lying  in  the  stream,  added 
the  roar  of  her  guns  to  the  general  welcome,  and  the 
screaming  of  hundreds  of  steam  whistles  announced  that 
the  City  of  Tokio  had  reached  her  anchorage. 

The  crowds  that  had  assembled  on  the  hills  and  along 
the  city,  now,  with  a  common  impulse,  began  to  pour  along 
toward  the  ferry  landing  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
where  General  Grant  was  to  land.  The  sidewalks  were 
blocked  with  hurrying  pedestrians,  and  the  streets  with 
carriages  conveying  the  committees.  The  steamers  and 
yachts  inade  haste  to  land  their  passengers,  and  in  a  few 
ininutes  the  vicinity  of  the  ferry  landing  was  literally 
jammed  with  people,  extending  for  blocks  along  Market 
street  and  the  water  front  just  in  front  ot  the  landing,  the 
entrances  to  which  were  closed  and  guarded.  A  space  was 
cleared  by  the  police  and  marshals,  into  which  hundreds  of 
carriages  for  use  of  the  guests  were  crowded,  and  outside 
of  that  space  line  after  line  of  troops  and  civic  organiza- 
tions were  ranged,  while  the  outside  constantly  increasing 
throng  surged  and  pressed,  excited  and  enthusiastic,  cheer- 
ing at  intervals,  and  waiting  impatiently  for  a  first  glimpse 
at  the  city's  honored  guest.  Within  the  gates  of  the  ferry- 
house  were  assembled  the  gentlemen  charged  with  the  duty 


336  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

of  the  immediate  reception  of  General  Grant,  the  Board 
of  Supervisors  ranged  on  the  left  of  the  gangway,  and 
Governor  Irwin  and  staff,  and  the  Executive  Committee, 
consisting  of  Governor-elect  Perkins,  \V.  H.  L.  Barnes, 
Samuel  Wilson,  William  T.  Coleman,  Tiburcio  Parrott, 
J.  P.  Jackson,  John  McComb,  John  Rosenfeld,  Claus 
Spreckels,  Jofin  H.  Wise,  W.  W.  Montegu,  occupied  the 
right.  Mayor  Bryant  taking  his  position  about  half  way 
down  the  center  of  the  gangway. 

About  seven  o'clock  General  Grant  landed  from  the 
ferryboat  Oakland,  according  to  arrangement.  As  soon  as 
the  General  stepped  from  the  ferry,  leaning  upon  the  arm 
of  General  John  F.  Miller,  he  was  introduced  to  Mayor 
Bryant. 

The  Mayor,  after  acknowledging  the  introduction, 
addressed  General  Grant  as  follows: 

"General  Grant:  As  Mayor  of  the  city  of  San 
Francisco,  I  have  the  honor  and  pleasure  to  welcome  you 
on  your  return  to  your  native  country.  Some  time  has 
passed  since  you  departed  from  the  Atlantic  shore  to  seek 
the  relief  which  a  long  period  in  your  country's  service 
had  made  necessary,  but  during  this  absence  the  people  of 
the  United  States  have  not  forgotten  vou.  Thev  have  read 
with  intense  interest  the  accounts  of  your  voyage  by  sea 
and  your  travels  by  land  around  the  world,  and  they  have 
observed  with  great  pleasure  tlie  honors  you  have  received 
in  the  different  countries  which  you  have  visited,  and  the 
universal  recognition  which  your  brilliant  career  as  a  soldier 
and  American  citizen  has  obtained.  They  have  felt  proud 
of  you,  and,  at  the  same  time,  of  their  country,  which  you 
have  so  fully  I'epresented.  And  now,  sir,  you  are  again  on 
your  native  soil,  and  the  thousands  who  here  greet  you  re- 
member that  your  home  was  once  in  this  city.  This  bay, 
these  hills,  the  pleasant  homes  about  us,  are  familiar  to  you. 
Great  changes,  it  is  true,  have  taken  place.     The  young 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  337 

■city  is  now  the  rival  of  cities  which  were  old  when  its 
history  began.  But  the  men  to  whom  this  marvelous  pros- 
perity is  due  were  in  those  early  days  your  personal  associates 
and  friends,  and  many  of  them  are  here  to-day,  waiting  anx- 
iously to  take  you  by  the  hand  once  more.  It  is  a  pleasing 
incident  of  your  journey,  that,  leaving  your  country  at  the 
ancient  city  of  Philadelphia,  Mayor  Stokely  expressed  the 
hope  of  that  city  for  a  safe  journey  and  a  happy  return.  It 
is  now  my  pi-ivilege  to  express  the  joy  of  San  Francisco 
that  the  hope  of  her  elder  sister  has  been  realized.  The 
city  desires  to  receive  you  as  an  old  and  honored  resident 
and  friend  returning:  after  a  long  absence,  and  to  extend  to 
you  such  courtesies  as  may  be  agreeable  to  you;  and,  in  obe- 
dience to  such  desire,  which  extends  through  all  classes,  I 
tender  to  you  the  freedom  of  the  city  and  its  hospitalities. 
In  the  short  time  allowed  us  we  have  arranged  a  reception 
in  your  honor,  and  ask  that  for  an  hour  you  will  permit  us 
to  present  our  people  to  you,  and  we  beg  that,  while  you 
remain  in  the  city,  yourself  and  your  fomily  and  your  travel- 
ing companions  will  be  its  guests.  Permit  me^  in  conclu- 
sion, to  express  the  wish  of  each  and  every  one  of  us  for 
the  future  happiness  and  prosperity  of  yourself  and  every 
member  of  your  family." 

General  Grant  replied  as  follows: 

"  Mayor  Bryant:  I  thank  you  and  the  city  of  San 
Francisco  for  this  cordial  welcome,  and  I  feel  great  pleasure 
in  returning  to  California  after  a  quarter  of  a  century's 
absence.     I  shall  be  glad  to  participate   in  the  procession." 

General  Grant  was  then  escorted  to  the  carriage  in 
which  he  rode  with  the  procession.  Mrs.  Grant  occupied 
another  carnage  with  Hon.  Frank  Pixley,  and  Jesse  Grant 
and  John  Russell  Young,  of  the  party,  occupied  another 
carriage. 

•After  a  delay  of  over  an  hour  at  the  landing,  at  S  o'clock 
the  Presidential  party  was  turned  over  to  the  Executive 


338 


GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 


Committee  having  in  charge  the  reception.  Then  the 
Grand  Marslial  gave  out  his  orders,  and  the  immense  con- 
course of  citizens,  who  were  ready  to  take  part  in  the  pro- 
cession, were  summoned  to  their  places,  and  formed  in  the 
following  order; 

Detachment  of  Police. 

Grand  Marshal— Major -General  W.  L.  Elliott. 

Chief  of  Staflf— Col.  A.  W.  Preston. 

Chief  Aids— S.  M.  Taylor,  T.  JSIcGregor,  G.  W.  Smiley,  C.  M.  Leavy,  W.  Harney, 

Lieutenant  Henrj'  Hammond,  Colonel  F.  O.  Von  Fritsch. 
Aids  to  Grand  Marshal— D.  W.  White,  D.  Roth,  B.  SegTiine,  W.  G.  Elliott,  Thomas 
Magrner,  A.  T.  McGill,  Dr.  J.  M.  McNulty,  T.  H.  Goodman,  P.  W.  Ames, 
N.  T.  Messer,   G.  W.  Wharton,  J.  H.  Thompson,  H.  Beudel, 
W.  H.  Simond,  E.  Carlsen,  Z.  B.  B.  Adams,  T.  C. 
Otis,  A.  S.  Hallidie,  I.  Simon,  C.  C.  Bemis, 
G,  A.  Fisher,  L.  Wadham,  P.  J.  White, 
A.  Harlow,  D.  Bigley,  J.  Austin,   George  S.  Ladd,  A.  Laver,  J.  P.  Martin,  W.  B. 
Larzelcre,  M.  Doane,  General  J.  Harris,  C.  N.  Ellenwood,  C.  H.  Carter, 
M.  Skelly,  George  A.  Case,   C.  I^.  Tetream,   Henry  Devenve,  C. 
Van  Dyke  Hubbard,  ^Valter  Turnbull,  A.  Wheeler. 
Volunteer  Officers,  Soldiers  and  Sailors  of  the  War  of  the  Rebellion,  including  ex- 
Confederate  Officers,  Soldiers  and  Sailors. 
Second  Brigade,  Brigadier-General  John  McComb. 
Oakland  Light  Cavalry  escort. 
General  Ulysses  S.  Grant  and  the  Honorable  A.  J.  Bryant,  Mayor  of  San  Francisco. 
Veterans  of  the  Mexican  War,  as  Guard  of  Honor. 
Board  of  Supervisors  and  Executive  Committee. 
Regular  troops  of  the  United  States  Army. 
His  Excellency,  William  Irwin,  Governor  of  California,  and  Staff. 
Major-General  Irwin  McDowell,  commanding   Military  Division  of  the  Pacific^ 

and  Staf?. 

Commodore  E.  R.  Calhoun,  United  States  Navy,  and  Staff. 

Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States,  United  States  Circuit  Court, 

and  District  Judges  of  the  Ninth  Circuit. 

Committee   on  Parade  and  Decoration. 

United  States  Senators  and  Representatives  to  Congress. 

Foreign  Consuls,  Officers  of  the  United  States  Army  and  Navy,  and  Marine  Corps. 

Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  California  and  the  District  Courts. 

United  States  District  Attorney  and  Assistants,  Registrars  in  Bankruptcy. 

United  States  Marshal  and  Deputies,  Collector  of  Customs,  Surveyor  of  the  Port, 

Naval  Officer,  United  States  Treasurer  and  Surveyor-General,  United  States 

Collector  of  Internal  Revenue,  and  Deputies,  Post- Master  and  Deputies. 

State  Officers,  City  and  County  Officers. 

Board  of  Trade. 

Oakland  City  Authorities. 

City  Authorities  of  Stockton. 

Board  of  Trustees  of  the  City  of  Benicia. 

Committee  of  Citizens  of  Sacramento. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  339 

University  Battalion. 

Garibaldi  Guard,  Italian  Bersaglieri,  Austrian  Jaeg'ers. 

St.  Patrick's  Cadets,  Italian  Fishermen. 

California  Pioneers,  Territorial  Pioneers,  Patriotic  Sons  of  America. 

Delegation  of  the  Fire  Deparlment. 

American  District  Telegraph  Messenger  Boys. 

Union  League,  McClellan  Legion,  Occidental  Club. 

Second  Ward  Republican  Club,  Eureka  Club,  Mutual  Benevolent  Society,  West 

'  Indian  Benevolent  Association. 

Oakland  Literary  and  Historical  Society. 

School  Children. 

Handel  and  Haydn  Society. 

Grant  Invincibles. 

Nelly  Grant  Blues. 

Organizations  Not  Yet  Reported. 

Steam  Calliope  and  Bells. 

The  line  of  march  decided  upon  was  from  the  Market 
Street  wharf,  up  Market  Street  to  Montgomery,  thence  to 
Montgomery  Avenue  over  Kearney  Street,  back  to  Mar- 
ket again,  up  the  north  side  of  Market  Street,  counter- 
marching down  Market  Street,  south  side,  passing  in 
review  at  New  Montgomery  Street.  On  reaching  Sansome 
Street,  the  procession  was  instructed  to  disperse.  Prob- 
ably no  city  on  this  globe  ever  beheld  a  grander  sight  than 
was  the  procession  of  Saturday  night. 

The  streets  were  made  as  bright  as  day  by  the  electric 
lights,  and  the  decorations,  fantastic  and  beautiful  as  they 
were  under  the  glare  of  the  sun,  looked  still  more  pleasing, 
rich  and  elegant  under  the  soft  and  mellow  light  of  the 
great  lanterns  which  the  greatest  of  modern  inventors  has 
given  us.  In  the  line  of  march  a  thousand  banners  flapped 
in  the  evening  breeze.  The  starry  flag  of  our  country  was 
of  course  the  most  prominent  among  them,  but  every 
nation  on  earth  was  represented  by  her  colors,  and  the  flag 
of  the  "lost  cause,"  side  by  side  with  the  flag  of  the  Union, 
was  not  the  least  conspicuous. 

The  Grand  Marshal  and  his  aids  were  mounted  upon 
the  best  horses  that  this  State  could  produce — charging 
steeds,  with  all  the  pride  and  spirit  of  the  thoroughbred 
21 


34^  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

flowing  through  their  veins.  The  average  CaHfornian  is 
large,  wcll-formcJ,  and  handsome.  There  was  not  an  ill- 
looking  man  among  the  fifty  who  marched  at  the  head  of 
the  procession.  The  volunteer  officers  and  soldiers  and 
sailors  of  the  war  of  the  rehellion,  including  those  who  had 
fought  with  and  against  the  great  commander,  made  a  ' 
magnificent  display,  and  were  cheered  along  the  entire 
line  of  march.  The  band  played  "Battle  Cry  of  Free- 
dom," and  an  occasional  war-whoop,  such  as  has  not  been 
heard  since  Lee  surrendered,  resounded  through  the  streets 
of  the  city.  The  Second  Brigade,  N.  G.  C,  commanded 
by  General  McComb,  the  editor  of  the  Alta^  who  was  one 
of  the  Argonaut's  of  '49,  followed.  Then  came  a  light 
cavalry  escort  from  the  beautiful  and  prosperous  city  of 
Oakland,  across  the  bay.  Then  came  the  hero,  himself, 
at  the  side  of  whom  sat  the  Mavor  of  San  Francisco,  the 
Hon.  A.  J.  Bryant. 

As  the  General  passed,  the  crowds  along  the  street  fairly 
shook  the  buildings  with  their  cheers.  The  heart  of  Gen- 
eral Grant  must  have  been  more  gratified  than  at  any  time 
since  his  name  became  a  distinguished  one  in  the  history  of 
his  country.  He  has  met  with  enthusiastic  receptions  and 
cheers  before,  but  it  was  when  his  services  to  the  country 
were  fresher  in  the  minds  of  the  people,  and  at  a  time  when 
the  soul  of  the  nation  w^as  full  of  gratitude  to  all  her  de- 
fenders.  But  that  feeling,  were  it  but  temporary,  as  is  too 
often  the  case,  has  had  time  to  die  out. 

Fourteen  years  of  peace  has  many  a  time  before  buried 
the  hero  of  a  war.  The  commander  of  the  Northern 
armies  in  the  great  rebellion  must  have  felt,  after  he  had  ac- 
complished all  that  the  country  could  ask  for,  that  his 
memory  vv-ould  soon  pale,  too.  For,  had  he  not  been  taught 
from  childhood  that  republics  were  ungrateful .''  If  he  ever 
feared  a  change  in  the  sentiment  of  his  fellow  countrymen, 
that  fear  must  have  disappeared  that  night.     He  could  not 


10UR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  34 1 

feel  but  that  the  heart  of  the  nation  was  unchanged;  that 
il  would  never  cease  to  honor  him,  that  it  would  never  be- 
come ungenerous,  cold  or  distant  to  the  man  of  its  choice, 
us  two  hundred  thousand  men,  women  and  children  cheered 
him  until  their  throats  were  sore.  He  must  have  felt  that  this 
republic,  at  least,  was  not  ungrateful  to  him.  He  bowed 
his  head,  a  trifle  grayer  than  it  was  when  he  left  the 
country  two  years  ago,  and  waved  his  hat  left  and  right  to 
the  surging,  crazy  populace.  Never  for  a  mom-ciit  from  the 
time  the  procession  left  the  landing  until  he  was  taken  into 
the  Palace  Hotel  did  his  interest  in  the  festivities  slacken, 
or  his  wonderful  presence  of  mind  desert  him.  He  was  at 
once  a  smiling,  courteous,  joll3--looking  American  citizen, 
und  a  distinguished,  dignified  and  honored  American  states- 
man and  soldier.  His  bearing  pleased  the  multitude,  and 
it  cheered  again. 

The  great  throng  of  people  assembled  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  hotel  remained  unbroken  for  nearly  two  hours  after 
the  passage  of  the  General  under  the  triumphal  arch.  The 
•cheering  was  continuous  on  the  outside,  and  the  cries  for  a 
speech  could  be  heard  in  the  room  where  the  General  was 
receiving  a  select  number  of  gentlemen.  The  cries  for  a 
speech  became  so  loud  that  one  of  the  members  of  the  Ex- 
ecutive Committee  finally  suggested  to  the  General  that  he 
show  himself  to  the  populace,  at  least,  and  he  consented. 

What  the  General  said  when  he  appeared  will  never  be 
known,  for  no  human  voice  could  be  distinguished  where 
fifty  thousand  throats  were  being  tested,  and  a  mighty  swell 
of  sounds  drowned  everything  save  the  sounds  themselves. 
The  General  appreciated  the  situation,  saw  that  he  was 
"  bottled  up,"  so  to  speak,  and  retired  from  the  fight  a  de- 
feated and  defended  man.  He  was  kept  out  of  his  bed  by 
visitors  as  long  as  decency  would  allow,  and,  after  the  ex- 
citement had  subsided  a  little,  was  allowed  to  resume  con- 
trol of  his  own  actions  again.     Although  he  must  have 


342  GEXEKAl.    V.    S.    GRAXT's 

been  greatly  fatigued,  he  did  not  show  the  slightest  im- 
patience during  the  trying  ordeal  of  hand-shaking  which 
he  passed  through. 

There  was  not  a  prouder  city  in  America  that  night 
than  San  Francisco.  She  felt  that  she  had  distinsfuished 
herself  by  honoring  General  Grant.  She  had  not  had  the 
experience  of  eastern  cities,  but  she  had  done  fully  as  well 
as  any  of  them  could  do.  The  General  might  meet  with 
receptions  grander  than  they  had  given  him  as  he  journeys 
toward  the  Atlantic,  but  he  could  not  meet  with  a  heartier 
one. 

At  1 1  o'clock  a  chorus  of  about  two  hundred  voices 
sang  an  anthem  of  welcome  at  the  Palace  Hotel.  It  was 
in  the  nature  of  a  serenade,  and  was  well  rendered  and 
received. 

During  Sunday  General  Grant  made  no  public  appear- 
:ance  other  than  to  take  a  ride  in  the  Golden  Gate  Park 
with  Mayor  Bryant.  In  the  evening  a  crowd  was  drawn 
to  the  corridors  of  the  Palace  Hotel,  but  the  General  did 
not  show  himself. 

The  future  movements  of  General  Grant  and  party 
embrace  a  grand  entertainment  at  the  California  Theatre 
on  Alonday,  September  22.  On  Tuesday  evening  he  will 
attend  a  reception  given  by  Mayor  Bryant.  On  Wednes- 
day or  Thursday  night  the  grand  banquet  at  Bellmont 
will  be  given.  The  following  is  one  of  the  poems  to  be 
read  at  this  banquet.  It  is,  in  its  way,  a  novelty,  and  was 
written  by  the  tamous  poet-scout,  John  Wallace  Crawford, 
It  will  be  read  with  a  number  of  others.  . 

Dear  Gineral,  I  ain't  no  great  scollar, 

An'  1  never  done  nothin'  to  brag, 
'Cept  this:  I  wor  one  of  the  outfit 

As  fought  for  our  star-spangled  flag. 

An'  to-day,  while  yer  toasted  by  scholars. 

An'  by  big  bugs  as  made  a  great  noise, 
Why,  1  thought  it  the  squar'  thing  to  write  yer, 

An'  chip  in  a  word  for  yer  boys. 


TOUR  AROUND  THK  WORLD.  343 

'Cos,  yer  see,  we  ain't  got  the  colatral 

Nor  the  larnin'  to  dish  it  up  right; 
But  ye'U  find,  should  there  be  any  trouble. 

Our  boys  are  still  ready  ter  fight. 

As  for  you,  if  they  didn't  correll  yer. 

You'd  shake  comrades'  hands  that  yer  seed, 

An'  that's  why  I  wanted  ter  tell  yer 
We'll  just  take  the  will  for  the  deed. 

But  ye're  back,  an'  the  men  of  all  nations  , 

Were  proud  to  do  honor  ter  yer; 
An'  I  reckon,  Ulysses,  yer  told  'em 

Ye  were  proud  of  yer  comrades  in  blue. 

For  you,  we  are  sure,  of  all  others, 

Remembered  our  boys  in  the  ranks 
Who  foliered  yer  inter  the  battle. 

An'  gallantly  guarded  the  flanks. 

So,  welcome!  a  thousand  times  welcome! 

Our  land  is  ablaze  with  delight; 
Our  people  give  thanks  for  yer  safety; 

Yer  comrades  are  happy  tonight. 

We  know  yer  are  wearied  an'  tuckered, 

But,  seein'  as  ye're  a  new  comer, 
Ye'll  Grant  us  one  glance  on  this  line,  if 

In  reading  it  takes  yer  all  summer. 

The  banquet  at  which  this  poem  will  be  read  promises 
to  be  one  of  the  most  brilliant  affairs  of  the  kind  that  Cali- 
fornia has  ever  had.  The  millionaires,  the  beauty  and  the 
talent  of  the  Golden  State,  will  be  represented.  It  is  said 
that  at  one  table  in  the  Bellmont  mansion,  the  old  home  of 
Ralston,  men  will  sit  down  whose  aggregate  fortunes  will 
foot  up  nearly  $200,000,000.  Among  them  will  be  John 
W.  Mackey,  the  bonanza  king,  and  Messrs.  Jones,  Sharon, 
Flood,  Fair,  and  other  men  of  vast  wealth  who  reside  in 
that  city.  But  the  entertainment  will  not  be  confined  to 
representatives  of  wealth  alone,  for  every  branch  of  the 
arts,  sciences  and  industries  of  the  Pacific  States  will  be 
ably  represented  at  the  supper. 

On  the  30th  he  will  go  to  the  Yosemite  Valley,  re- 
maining there  about  ten  days.  Then  he  will  return  to 
San  Francisco  and  leave  for  Oregon.     After  visiting  Port- 


3^4  GENERAL    U.    S.    GIIANT  S 

land,  the  Dalles,  and  other  places,  he  will  pay  a  visit  to  the 
Bonanza  mines  at  Virginia  City,  where  he  will  be  the 
guest  of  his  friend,  John  W.  Mackey,  the  millionaire. 
After  this  he  will  go  straight  to  Chicago,  where  he  will 
attend  the  Army  and  Navy  Re-union,  November  5,  then 
to  St.  Louis,  and  then  to  his  old  home  at  Galena. 

Dispatches  from  Oregon,  Nevada,  Yosemite  Valley 
and  other  parts  of  the  country  show  that  the  grand  wel- 
come extended  to  the  General  at  San  Francisco  will  be  but 
the  forerunner  of  those  yet  grander  that  await  him.  His 
coming  recalls  the  splendor  of  his  military  achievements. 
The  popular  heart  quickens  to  welcome  the  hero  of  the 
war,  who  out  of  disaster  organized  victory. 

The  Romans  were  accustomed  to  give  their  generals  a 
triumphal  march  on  their  return  from  successful  campaigns 
of  conquest  by  the  sword.  The  whole  world  has  united 
in  making  General  Grant's  trip  around  the  world  a  tri- 
umphal march,  and  that,  too,  in  honor  at  once  of  military 
and  pacific  records.  The  foremost  soldier  of  this  genera- 
tion, to  say  the  least,  he  was  a  promoter  of  good  will 
among  the  nations,  and  especially  of  the  polic}'  of  arbitra- 
tion in  international  disputes.  These  two  contrasting,  yet 
not  inconsistent,  records,  conspired  to  make  him  honored, 
and  we  might  almost  say  revered,  from  Liverpool  to  Yo- 
kohama. 

The  journey,  which  is  now  over  so  far  as  concerns  the 
outside  world,  was  absolutely  unique.  History  furnishes 
no  parallel  to  it.  It  can  hardly  be  possible  for  him  to  reach 
his  final  destination  without  being  the  recipient  of  most 
flattering  ovations.  There  was  nothing  partisan  about  the 
reception  at  San  Francisco.  There  were  no  distinctions 
of  republican  and  democrat.  Even  the  Confederate 
soldiers  on  the  coast  joined  cordially  in  the  honors,  and 
well  they  might.  Never  did  the  victor  show  such  magna- 
nimity  as   Grant  at   Appomattox.        When    General   Lee 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  345 

directed  the  horses  m  his  command  turned  over,  General 
Grant  interrupted:  "No,  no;  no  horses,  General  Lee. 
Your  people  will  need  them  all  for  plowing."  That  little 
incident,  told  by  General  Lee  himself,  fairly  illustrates  the 
policy  he  pursued  then  and  ever  afterward  toward  the 
South.  The  people  of  the  United  States  might  well  join 
as  one  man  in  expression  of  affectionate  respect  for  "  the 
wanderer  returned." 

As  General  Grant's  tour  around  the  world  is  unprece- 
dented in  the  annals  of  history,  so  his  dejoortment  appears 
to  have  been  unexampled  in  its  freedom  from  the  least  alloy 
of  vanity.  Surprised  by  the  magnificent  ovation  in  San 
Francisco,  he  embraced  his  old  classmate  and  fellow  sol- 
dier, General  McDov^ell,  in  the  presence  of  the  eager  mul- 
titude, with  the  warmth  and  abandon  of  a  boy.  A  hundred 
ovations  from  the  rulers  and  peoples  of  the  Old  World 
seem  not  to  have  lifted  him  a  hair's-breadth  in  his  own  esti- 
mation. It  seems  to  be  as  impossible  to  "  turn  his  head  " 
as  it  was  during  the  Rebellion  to  turn  the  flank  of  one  of 
his  armies.  The  attentions  showered  upon  him  abroad 
have  been  gratefully  received  and  acknowledged  as  marks 
of  honor  to  his  country,  but  personally  regarded  only  as- 
pleasing  incidents  of  a  journey  undertaken  with  a  purpose 
—  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  Old  World  and  studying  man- 
kind, their  habits,  social  customs  and  political  institutions. 
From  this  purpose  he  was  no  more  to  be  swerved  by  the 
blandishments  of  power  than  by  the  dictates  of  a  false  gen- 
erosity before  Fort  Donaldson,  when,  to  General  Buckner's 
rec[uest  for  a  commission  to  arrange  terms  of  capitulation, 
he  wrote:  "  JVo  terrtis  other  than  an  unconditional  and  i/n- 
juediate  surrender  can  be  accepted,  I  propose  to  move  im- 
mediately upon  your  ivorks.'''' 

Obstinacy  and  modesty  are  not  often  combined  in  the 
same  character.  With  obstinacy  there  is  usually  much  self- 
assertion,  as  in  the  case  of  Andrew  Jackson.     It  is  also  true 


346  GENEKAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

tliat  the  armor  of  an  obstinate  character  is  not  infrequently 
successfully  assailed  by  flattery.     But  Genei^al  Grant  is   as 
impervious  to  flattery  as  he  is  free  from  the  vice  of  self- 
assertion.     The  career  of  General  Grant  is  scarcely  less  mar- 
velous and  far  more  illustrious  than  that  of  Napoleon   I. 
But,  while  with  Napoleon  it  was,  "  I  am  the  State,"  with 
Grant  it  is,  "I  was  an  humble  instrument  in  the  hands  of 
the  people."     Napoleon's  confidence  in   himself  bordered 
closely  on  belief  in  his  own  infallibility;  but  General  Grant, 
in  his  letter  accepting  a  second  nomination  to  the  Presidency, 
said,  humbly:  "  Experience  may  guide  me  in  avoiding  mis- 
takes inevitable  with  novices  in  all  professions  and  in  all 
occupations.'"     Such  a  confession  is    rare  in   a  state   paper, 
and  it  shows  the  courage  of  an  integrity  fearless  of  results. 
To  an  unconspicuous  friend  General  Grant  once  sent  this 
message:  "I  am  now  convinced  that  I  did  you  injustice.     I 
regret  it,  and,  if  I  ever  have  an  opportunity,  I  will  recom- 
pensatc  you."     In  this  characteristic  of  daring  to  confess  an 
error,  whether  in  a  state  paper  or  in  a  communication  to  an 
humble   friend.  General   Grant  resembles   Lincoln.      The 
anartyr  President   had   no  pride  of  opinion   where  public 
interest  or  private  right  was  concerned;  neither  has  Gen- 
<eral  Grant.     This  quality  is  by  no  means  peculiar  to   all 
great  men.     It  is  found  only  in  characters  which,  intrinsic- 
ally grand,  are  rendered  almost  sublime  by  their  simplicity. 
Writing  of  General  Grant  in  1S65,  the  New  York    World 
made  this  estimate  of  his  character  as  a  military  man: 

"  When  the  mass  of  men  look  upon  such  a  character, 
they  may  learn  a  truer  respect  for  themselves  and  each 
other;  they  are  taught  by  it  that  high  qualities  and  great 
abilities  are  consistent  with  the  simplicity  of  taste,  con- 
tempt for  parade,  and  plainness  of  manners  with  which 
direct  and  earnest  men  have  a  strong  and  natural  sympa- 
thy. *  *  *  Grant  stands  pre-eminent  among  all  the 
generals  who  have  served  in  this  war  in  the  completeness 


TOUR    AUOUXI)    THE    WOULD. 


3^7 


of  his  final  results.     *      *      *      If  anybody  is  so  obtuse  or  ^ 

wrong-headed  as  to  see  nothing  great  in  General  Grant 
beyond  his  marvelous  tenacity  of  will,  let  that  doubter  ex- 
plain, if  he  can,  how  it  has  happened  that,  since  Grant 
rose  to  high  command,  this  quality  has  always  been  exerted 
in  conspicuous  energy  precisely  at  the  point  on  which 
everything  in  his  whole  sphere  of  operations  hinged. 
There  has  been  no  display  of  great  qualities  on  small  oc- 
casions; no  expenditure  of  herculean  effort  to  accomplish 
objects  not  of  the  first  magnitude.  It  is  only  a  very  clear- 
sighted and  a  very  comprehensive  mind  that  could  always 
thus  have  laid  the  whole  emphasis  of  an  indomitable  soul 
so  precisely  on  the  emphatic  place." 

General  Grant's  series  of  receptions  beyond  the  oceans 
was  the  logical  result  of  this  excellent  estimate  of  his  char- 
acter as  developed  chiefly  in  his  military  career.  Let  it  be 
admitted  that  General  Grant's  remarkable  journey  is  merely 
evidence  of  the  hero-worship  to  which  mankind  is  so 
strongly  addicted.  Still  it  must  be  conceded  that  all  the 
world  does  not  unite  to  crown  a  man  a  hero  without  good 
cause.  Napoleon  ended  his  brilliant  career  miserably,  a 
prisoner  at  St.  Helena,  held  there  by  the  fears  and  hates  of 
all  Europe. 

General  Grant,  having  enjoyed  the  highest  honor  the 
nation  can  bestow,  returns  from  his  triumphal  tour  around 
the  world,  to  be  made  the  recipient  of  a  welcome  as  hearty, 
fraternal  and  tender  as  the  subdued  cry  of  joy  with  which 
the  father  embraces  his  first-born  child  returninsf  from  a 
long  absence. 

In  the  presence  of  this  grand  demonstration,  this  spon- 
taneous outpouring  of  patriotism  and  affection,  partisanship 
is  hushed,  and  the  American  people,  as  a  unit,  receive  back 
to  their  bosom  and  confidence  the  beloved  General  who 
beat  back  the  waves  of  rebellion  and  saved  the  nation. 

The  welcome  extended  to  him  comes  up  from  the  hearts 


54S  GENERAL    L'.    S.    GKANT"'S 

of  the  people.  It  is  expressive  of  the  gratitude  of  the 
nation  —  of  the  popular  confidence  in  the  tried  captain  in 
war  and  leader  in  times  of  perilous  civil  commotion.  It  is 
not  confined  to  the  Pacific  slope.  It  Is  not  confined  to  this 
day  or  c^cicration.  The  place  which  he  to-day  holds  in  the 
hearts  of  the  people  is  that  which  he  will  hold  in  the  hearts 
of  the  American  people  while  the  nation  exists. 

Perhaps  nothing  will  better  illustrate  the  high  pitch  of 
public  enthusiasm  in  San  Francisco  so  much  as  the  follow- 
ing extracts  from  the  three  leading  newspapers  there.  The 
Chronicle  had  a  column  leader  headed,  "  Plail  to  the  Chief," 
from  which  the  following  is  selected : 

"  The  jubilant  peal  of  bells  throughout  the  city,  the  shrill 
scream  of  a  hundred  steam  whistles,  and  the  reverberated 
ihundcrs  of  artillery  from  the  batteries  of  the  fortresses  that 
^uard  our  harbor  and  the  Golden  Gate,  have  announced  the 
arrival  of  San  Francisco's  expected  guest.  He  returns  to 
this  country  after  receiving  the  homage  of  the  civilized 
world,  crowned  with  such  honors  as  have  never  before  been 
bestowed  by  foreign  nations  upon  any  citizen  of  the  United 
States.  Regarded  everywhere  as  a  great  representative 
American,  the  testimony  of  admiration  and  respect  paid  him 
at  every  stage  of  his  journey  redound  to  the  honor  of  his 
country,  with  which,  throughout  the  world,  his  name  and 
fame  and  illustrious  deeds  are  identified.  Thus  the  nation 
itself  derives  fresh  prestige  from  the  renown  and  achieve- 
ments of  its  most  distinguished  living  citizen,  who,  without 
ofKcial  position,  occupying  a  private  station,  with  no  favors 
to  bestow  and  no  patronage  to  dispense,  will  be  welcomed 
liome  by  his  grateful  countrymen  with  such  tokens, of  con- 
fidence and  enthusiastic  affection  as  have  never  been  exhib- 
ited by  Americans  to  any  citizen,  or  any  illustrious  visitor 
from  abroad,  since  the  days  of  Washington  and  Lafayette; 
and  it  is  fitting  that  this  should  be  so,  for,  assui^edly,  when 
this  generation  shall  have  passed  away,  when  the  fierce  pas- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


349 


sions  engendered  by  a  bitter  strife  shall  have  been  tranquil- 
ized,  the  voices  of  prejudice  and  calumny  that  have  been  so 
loud  against  his  great  name  will  be  hushed  forever,  and  the 
verdict  of  impartial  history  will  be  that,  since  the  foundation 
of  our  government,  no  American,  however  bright  the  halo 
that  time  has  cast  around  his  memory,  has  deserved  better 
of  his  country  than  Ulysses  S.  Grant." 

The  Ca//,  after  reviewing  the  glorious  war  record  of  the 
General,  and  quoting  his  modest,  magnanimous  language 
to  General  Sherman,  when  the  rank  of  Geneial  of  the 
Army  was  conferred  upon  him,  goes  on  to  say: 

"  What  picture  of  grandeur  and  simplicity  of  character 
is  presented  in  this  career;  what  magnanimity,  what  patri- 
otism, what  cool  judgment,  what  clear-sighted  sagacity, 
what  singleness  of  purpose,  what  subordination  of  all  ego- 
tistical and  selfish  considerations  to  duty  and  the  public 
good!  Here  was  a  man  who  sought  no  personal  ends,  who 
had  none  of  the  airs  of  little  greatness,  who  abhorred  fuss 
and  feathers,  who  never  attitudinized  before  the  public,  or 
courted  popularity  by  melodramatic  vices;  a  man  such  as 
Tennyson  has  described  the  '  Iron  Duke  '  to  be  —  moderate, 
resolute,  our  greatest,  yet  with  least  picture  foremost,  cap- 
tain of  his  time,  rich  in  saving  common-sense,  and,  as  the 
greatest  only  are,  in  his  simplicity  sublime." 

The  Alta  Californian^  General  McComb's  paper,  had 
a  double-leaded  editorial,  as  follows : 

"  The  Tokio  has  come,  and  so  has  Grant,  at  present  the 
foremost  man  of  the  nation,  and  whom  San  Francisco  and 
California  are  pleased  and  happy  to  honor.  He  left  this 
State  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  when  it  was 
but  a  crude  country,  known  chiefly  for  its  gold  and  climate, 
and  for  the  inrushing  hosts  of  '  fresh-lipped  men,'  seeking 
gold,  and  anticipating  a  speedy  return  to  the  old  home- 
steads. He  left  us  and  went  to  the  East.  Since  then  the 
scarcely  more  than  a  territory  with  a  population  of  miners 


35©  GEN.  U.  S.  grant's  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

has  become  almost  an  Empire  State,  summing  her  popula- 
tion by  the  million,  and  boasting  of  her  prolific  soil,  richer 
in  its  productions  of  breadstuffs  than  it  had  formerly  been 
in  its  crop  of  gold;  and  General  Grant  cannot  but  be  sui'- 
prised,  if  not  astonished,  as  he  sees  the  evidences  here  of 
that  intelligence,  industry  and  confidence  which  have 
changed  a  sand  bank  into  a  city  of  a  third  of  a  million 
people.  We  noticed  him  as  he  rode  through  the  streets  last 
night  over  solid  pavements,  w^hich  he  left  as  little  better 
than  sand  and  mud,  as  his  eyes  were  seeking  some  well 
known  and  remembered  shanty  or  abode  of  an  ancient  con- 
struction. But  instead  they  followed  up  the  facades  of  pal- 
ace-like structures,  their  windows  brilliant  with  illumina- 
tions of  gaslight,  electricity,  and  ladies'  eyes  from  the  Orient 
isles,  just  awakened  from  their  dreams  of  centuries,  and 
rushing  forward  in  the  race  of  a  new  civilization  with  the 
vim  and  vigor  of  a  new-born  people.  He  comes  back  to 
the  scenes  of  his  young  manhood,  to  a  people  who  have 
already  built  up  here  a  State  and  city  and  civilization  which 
will  compare  with  any  he  has  visited  while  girding  the 
world  about;  and  this  people  have  shown  their  delight  at 
his  presence  by  a  welcome  which  comes  from  the  heart,  as 
a  tribute  to  the  foremost  man  of  the  nation.  And  so  say 
we  all." 


Sixteen  pages  are  here  added  to  correct  omission  in  paging  the 
illustrations. 


APPENDIX. 


On  the  morning  of  September  23d  the  Methodist  Con- 
ference, which  had  been  in  session  for  several  days,  called 
in  a  body  on  General  and  Mrs.  Grant.  Bishop  Haven 
made  an  address  of  welcome,  and  a  formal  presentation  to 
the  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  followed.  An  hour  was  taken 
up  before  the  presentation  was  concluded.  The  prepara- 
tions made  around  the  new  city  hall  for  the  formal  pre- 
sentation of  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  to  the  citizeiis  of  San 
Francisco  were  of  an  elaborate  character.  The  Mayor's 
office,  which  was  used  as  a  reception  room,  was  hand- 
somely draped  with  flags.  At  half-past  twelve  o'clock  a 
crowd  begfan  to  assemble  in  front  of  the  McAllister  street 
entrance,  and  shortly  after  the  passage,  steps  and  every 
point  of  advantage  were  thronged  with  people.  At  the 
Market  street  side  of  the  building  there  was  also  a  large 
crowd  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  veterans  to  fire  salutes 
from  the  sand  lots.  As  the  hour  for  the  reception  ap- 
proached, the  crowd  grew  denser,  filling  up  the  con-idors 
and  entrances  of  the  building.  A  squad  of  thirty  police- 
men was  detailed  to  keejD  the  passages  open.  At  a  quarter 
to  one  the  veterans  —  Federal  and  Confederate  —  arrived 
upon  the  "  sand  lots,"  taking  up  a  position  near  Market 
street.  The  first  gun  was  fired  at  ten  minutes  to  one,  the 
other  thirty-seven  guns  succeeding  each  other  at  intervals  of 
one  minute.  The  people  massed  along  the  line  of  Market 
street.  After  the  salute  the  veterans  fell  into  line,  entered 
the  corridor,  and  marching  down  its  length  countermarched 


36S  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT  S 

and  took  up  a  position  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  General. 
A  few  minutes  later  the  ex-President  and  party  arrived  at 
the  McAllister  street  entrance  and  were  greeted  with 
cheers.  The  windows  of  the  houses  opposite  and  the 
housetops  were  crowded  with  people  who  waved  handker- 
chiefs and  sent  up  cheer  after  cheer  as  the  party  alighted. 
As  the  General  proceeded  along  the  pavement,  escorted  by 
the  Mayor,  the  enthusias.n  broke  out  afresh  along  the 
corridor.  Running  from  the  lower  entrance  to  the  Mayor's 
office  were  ranged  the  veterans,  posted  in  two  lines.  Their 
commander,  Colonel  Lyons,  stepjDcd  forward  as  General 
Grant  and  the  Mayor  reached  the  corridor,  and  said: 
"  Now,  boys,  three  cheers  for  your  old  commander!"  The 
veterans  responded  with  enthusiastic  hurrahs.  The  party 
then  proceeded  to  the  Mayor's  office,  where  a  committee  of 
ladies  were  waiting  to  receive  Mrs.  Grant  and  assist  her. 
Mrs.  Grant  did  not  arrive  until  some  time  after  the  General, 
who  took  up  his  position  in  the  centre  of  the  room.  The 
southeast  corner  of  the  room  was  assigned  to  the  ladies. 

Directions  were  then  issued  to  admit  the  multitude. 
After  a  few  of  the  invited  guests  had  been  presented  to  the 
General  the  crowd  filed  in,  shook  hands  with  the  city's 
guests,  and  passed  out  at  the  Market  street  entrance  after 
presentation  to  Mrs.  Grant.  All  the  afternoon  a  constant 
stream  of  visitors  poured  through  the  apartments,  and  all 
were  greeted  with  a  hearty  shake  of  the  hand,  the  General 
not  adopting  the  suggestion  of  the  Mayor  that  hand  shak- 
ing might  be  dispensed  with  on  account  of  the  great  rush, 
and  expressing  his  opinion  that  he  could  "  fight  it  out  on 
that  line  all  summer." 

Previous  to  the  salute  on  the  "  sand  lots,"  the  General 
reviewed  the  veterans  at  their  rendezvous  in  Mechanics' 
Pavilion. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  General  Grant  visited  the 
Produce    Exchange,    and   witnessed   a   grand    display  of 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  3O9 

cereals  of  the  Pacific  coast,  which  no  city  in  the  world 
could  probably  excel.  He  was  much  gratified  at  the  ex- 
hibition, and  expressed  in  a  few  words  his  congratulations. 
After  that,  accompanied  by  General  McDowell,  a  govern- 
ment tug  conveyed  him  to  all  the  forts  in  the  bay,  where 
he  was  received  with  military  honors.  Upon  landing  at 
Black  Point,  General  McDowell's  headquarters,  the  party 
was  greeted  by  a  salute,  and  the  troops  were  drawn  up  in 
line  to  receive  General  Grant.  At  General  McDowell's 
residence  a  collation  was  prepared,  and  a  formal  reception 
tendered  to  the  distinguished  guest.  Among  the  promi- 
nent citizens  present  were  Governor  Irwin  and  Governor- 
elect  Perkins,  ex-Governor  Stanford,  ex-Governor  Low, 
Senator  Booth,  Senator  Sharon,  ex-Senator  Stewart,  Jus- 
tice S.  J.  Field,  Judge  Ogden  Hoffman,  D.  O.  JMills,  and 
other  distinguished  citizens,  generally  accompanied  by  their 
ladies. 

Before  the  reception  began,  the  General  was  visited  by 
the  chief  representatives  of  the  Chinese  community, headed 
by  their  Consul  and  the  Chinese  Vice-Consul,  who  read 
the  following  congratulatory  welcome : 

"  General — We  feel  deeply  gratified  that  we  were  per- 
mitted to  meet  you  face  to  face,  and  express  to  you  how 
sincerely  we  appreciate  the  fact  that  you  have  visited  our 
country,  and  consulted  with  its  rulers,  and  become  familiar 
with  the  important  features  of  both  government  and  peo- 
ple. It  gives  unbounded  j^leasure  to  learn  that  you  re- 
ceived a  warm  welcome,  commensurate  with  the  high 
esteem  your  noble  deeds  fully  entitled  you  to  at  the  hands 
of  the  Chinese  authorities  and  j^eople.  Let  us  hope  that 
your  visit  will  have  a  tendency  to  bring  the  people  of  the 
oldest  and  youngest  nations  in  still  closer  friendly  and  com- 
mercial relations.  The  Chinese  of  California  join  with 
your  countrymen  in  the  acclaim,'  Welcome  home,'  and  add 
the  sentiments  that  you  may  live  long,  and,  like  the  great 


370  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

Washington,  be  first  In  war,  first  in  peace,  and  first  in  the 
hearts  of  your  countrymen." 

To  this  was  added  by  the  dignitaries: 

"  To  General  Grant — We  join  our  voices  to  prolong 
the  pean  which  has  girdled  the  earth,  wafted  o'er  seas  and 
continents.  Praises  to  the  warrior  and  statesman  most 
graciously  presented  by  the  Chinese  of  California." 

The  General  replied: 

"Gentlemen — lam  very  glad  to  meet  the  representa- 
tives of  the  Chinese  community,  and  receive  this  address. 
1  have,  as  you  say,  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  your  coun- 
try. It  was  a  most  interesting  visit — one  that  I  shall 
always  remember,  and  especially  because  of  the  kindness 
and  hospitality  shown  me  by  the  people  and  the  authorities 
of  China.  For  that  I  am  grateful,  and  glad  of  an  oppor- 
tunity of  expressing  that  gratitude  so  soon  after  my  arrival 
at  home.  I  hope  that  the  remark  you  make  about  China 
breaking  down  the  seclusion  in  which  she  has  been  shrouded 
for  ages  will  prove  true  in  all  senses,  and  that  China  will 
continue  10  draw  near  to  her  the  sympathy  and  the  trade 
of  the  civilized  world.  The  future  of  China  will  largely 
depend  upon  her  policy  In  this  respect.  A  liberal  policy 
will  enlarge  your  commerce,  and  confer  great  commercial 
advantages  upon  the  outside  world.  I  hope  that  America 
will  have  a  large  share  in  this.     Again  I  thank  you." 

Afcer  presenting  the  address  Colonel  Bej  said  that 
Mrs.  Grant  had  done  more  to  break  down  the  spirit  of  do- 
mestic exclusiveness  that  reigned  in  China  than  the  warrior 
had  done,  by  tlie  honors  shown  her  in  Tientsin.  He 
begged  that  she  would  accept  a  small  casket  of  ivory  as  a 
memento  of  the  occasion.  The  reception  lasted  till  6 
o'clock;  the  party  returned  to  the  city,  and  in  the  evening 
attended  Baldwin's  theater. 

The  announcement  that  General  Grant  would  visit  the 
Baldwin  theater  sufficed  to  pack  the  building  to  its  utmost 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  37 1 

capacity.  The  proscenium  box  designed  for  the  occupancy 
of  the  General  and  his  party,  was  handsomely  decorated 
with  flowers  and  national  colors.  The  programme  for  the 
evening  comprised  the  "balcony"  and  other  scenes  from 
*'  Romeo  and  Juliet,"  and  "  Diplomacy."  General  Grant 
and  party  arrived  shortly  before  9  o'clock,  between  the 
acts.  A  great  crowd  gathered  at  the  entrance,  cheering 
vociferously  as  he  alighted.  On  making  his  appearance  in 
the  box  the  audience  rose  to  their  feet  and  cheered  and 
applauded  for  several  minutes,  while  the  orchestra  struck 
up  "  See,  the  Conquering  Hero  Comes,"  followed  by  a 
medley  of  national  airs,  accented  by  discharges  of  mus- 
ketry from  behind  the  scenes. 

On  the  25th  General  Grant  visited  Oakland,  the  resi- 
dence of  thousands  of  San  Francisco  merchants,  and  the 
second  largest  city  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  General  was 
received  with  a  salute  of  thirty-eight  guns,  the  fire  whis- 
tles, profusion  of  bunting,  masses  of  people,  and  display 
of  flowers  of  all  descriptions  at  once  annoiuiced  that  an 
ovation  was  in  store  for  him.  Mayor  Andrus,  of  Oakland, 
who  was  formerly  a  carpenter,  received  General  Grant 
with  the  followinor  words: 

"General  Grant:  Your  merited  ovations  have  en- 
circled the  world;  they  have  been  as  grand  and  varied  as 
the  nations  that  have  offered  them;  and  yet,  along  them 
all  there  has  been  no  more  earnest,  sincere,  and  cordial  wel- 
come than  the  city  of  Oakland  now  extends  to  you — this 
pre-eminently  city  of  homes  and  of  families,  of  husbands 
and  wives,  of  parents  and  children,  of  churches  and 
schools.  There  is  no  tie  more  sacred  and  lasting  than  that 
of  the  family.  At  the  family  altar  the  fires  of  liberty  are 
first  kindled,  and  there  patriotism  is  born.  Love  of  home, 
of  kindred,  and  of  countrv  is  the  source  and  foundation  of 
our  welcome  to  you — defender  of  our  firesides  and  fami- 
lies." 


3/2  GENERAL    U.    S.     GllAN'l's 

The  procession  then  formed  and  moved  along  Broad- 
wa}'.      The  enthusiasm   of  the  populace  was  unbounded. 

At  the  entrance  of  Clay  and  Fourteenth  street  5,000 
school  children  greeted  General  Grant,  who  alighted  from 
the  carriage,  passing  down  one  row  of  children  and  up 
another,  while  the  little  ones  literally  bestrewed  his  path 
with  flowers,  tlic  High  School  singers  chanting  a  glee,  and 
Grant's  Des  Moines  words,  "  The  free  schools  are  the  pro- 
moters of  that  intelligence  which  is  to  produce  us  a  free 
nation,"  hanging  high  above  his  head.  All  the  girls  wore 
white  dresses,  tastefully  trimmed,  and,  as  the  General  re- 
entered his  carriage  they  cast  showers  of  floral  tributes  at 
his  feet.  General  Grant  was  visibly  affected,  and  every 
now  and  then  would  stretch  forth  his  hands  to  embrace 
some  very  small  child  who  would  approach  limidl}-  with 
her  bouquet.  Not  alone  the  schools  of  Oakland,  but  those 
of  Hay  wards,  San  Leandro,  Alameda,  and  other  suburban 
points  \vere  represented.  A  prettier  display  could  not  have 
been  made.  Garlands  of  red,  white  and  blue  streamers 
stretched  across  the  street,  while  the  national  colors  floated 
high  above  all  on  the  city  hall. 

As  the  procession  passed  on  again  along  Broadway  and 
Twelfth  streets,  the  words,  "  Welcome  and  Honor  the 
Brave,"  in  red  geraniums  and  white  candy  tufts,  were  visi- 
ble at  more  than  a  dozen  houses.  Soon  after  i  o'clock  the 
pavilion  was  reached,  and  General  Grant,  with  the  Mayor, 
took  seats  in  a  canopied  dias  in  the  center  of  the  building, 
which  was  tastefully  decorated  with  festoons,  bouquets, 
wreaths  and  plumes  of  Pampas  grass.  On  the  wall  facing 
the  General  were  the  words, "  Honor  to  Grant,"  and  over 
them  the  coat  of  arms  of  Illinois,  surrounded  by  a  wreath, 
while  beneath  and  around  were  shields  representing  the 
other  thirtv-seven  states.  The  First  Resriment  band 
played  "  Hail  Columbia,"  and  the  Oakland  Cavalry,  Mexi- 
ican  War  Veterans,  and  National  Guard  Infantry,  together 


TOUR    AilOUXD    THE    WORLD.  373 

with  representatives  of  Oakland's  renowned  Fire  Depart- 
ment, marched  in  and  around  the  halls. 

About  two  o'clock  the  procession  moved  on  to  Tubb's 
hotel,  where  an  excellent  lunch  was  spread.  The  arrange- 
ments were  admirable.  Every  person  entering  the  lunch- 
room had  a  ticket,  and  thus  all  confusion  was  avoided.  At 
a  quarter  to  four  o'clock  Mayor  Andrus  rose  and  proposed 
General  Grant's  health,  after  which,  all  speeches  being 
taken  as  read  or  spoken,  the  party  adjourned.  The  Gen- 
eral entered  a  carriage  with  six  horses,  and  was  taken  round 
the  Fruitvale  Road,  toward  the  Mills  seminary,  the  young 
ladies  from  which  had  come  out  in  full  force.  Returning 
at  4:15  to  the  hotel,  the  carriages  proceeded  to  Badger's 
Park,  where  an  old  sailors'  and  soldiers'  camp-fire  took  place. 
Ex-President  Grant  was  escorted  to  a  platform,  on  which 
were  ranged  tables  with  pork  and  beans,  coffee  in  camp- 
kettles,  tin  cups,  platters  and  spoons,  iron  table-knives, 
tobacco  and  clay  pipes,  the  camp-tire  lights  being  visible 
from  the  platform.  The  Federal  and  Confederate  veterans 
had  here  united  to  do  him  honor,  and  many  were  those  who 
stepped  up  to  the  General,  and  reminded  him  of  "  Auld 
Lang  Svne."  About  five  o'clock  Major  L.  B.  Edwards 
silenced  the  cheering  crowd,  and  said:  "Veterans,  allow 
me  to  introduce  General  Grant."  The  hero  of  Appomat- 
tox then  stepped  foi'ward,  and,  amid  breathless  silence, 
spoke  as  follows: 

Gentlemen  of  the  two  Armies  and  Navies:  I  am 
very  proud  of  the  welcome  you  have  given  me.  I  am  partic- 
ularly happy  to  see  the  good-will  and  cordiality  existing  be- 
tween the  soldiers  of  the  two  armies,  and  I  have  an  enduring 
faith  that  it  will  always  be  so.  I  hope  we  shall  never  have 
a  foreign  war;  but,  if  we  do,  I  doubt  not  you  and  your 
children  will  be  found  fighting  on  the  same  side,  and  against 
a  common  enemy.  I  hope  the  day  will  never  come  when 
it  will  be  necessary  fc-r  u£   ';o   tai;e  up  r.rms  again.     I  am 


374  GENERAL     V.    S.    GKANt's 

perfectly  satisfied,  from  travel  around  the  world,  that  no- 
foreign  joower  desii-es  to  come  in  conflict  with  us,  should 
any  difficulty  unfortunatcl)^  arise,  that  they  will  always  be 
willing  to  submit  to  friendly  arbitration,  and  that  being  all 
that  we  can  desire,  I  feel  confident  America  has  a  long:  ca- 
reer  of  peace  and  prosperity  befoi-e  her. 

The  enthusiasm  created  by  this  speech  was  indescrib- 
able. One  veteran  shouted,  "  That's  the  longest  speeck 
Grant  ever  made."  A  brief  walk  through  the  park  termi- 
nated the  proceedings,  and  at  5:^0  General  Grant  took  the 
train  at  Clinton  station  and  returned  to  the  city,  thanking 
Mayor  Andrus  and  W.  W.  Crane,  of  the  arrangements, 
committee,  for  their  admirably  organized  reception. 

The  Mayor  had  previously  handed  General  Grant  a 
richly-mounted  morocco  case  containing  the  freedom  of  the 
city,  embossed  on  parchment;  and  armed  with  this,  and 
both  hands  full  of  bouquets  presented  by  children,  the  Gen- 
eral returned  at  seven  o'clock,  with  Shipping  Commisioner 
Stephenson  and  United  States  District  Judge  Hoffiiian,  to 
the  Palace  hotel.  He  made  a  brief  appearance  at  the  press 
banquet,  then  being  given  to  John  Russell  Young,  of  the 
New  York  Herald. 

In  reply  to  a  toast.  General  Grant  responded,  briefly 
expressing  his  gratification  at  the  welcome  awarded  him  in 
California,  concluding  with  "The  good  opinion  of  my  coun- 
trymen is  dearer  to  me  than  the  praise  of  all  the  world  be- 
side." 

After  attending  the  press  banquet,  the  General  and 
party  went  to  the  carnival  at  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  where 
more  than  ten  thousand  persons  were  assembled.  Col- 
onel Andrews,  of  the  diamond  palace,  W'ho  organized  this 
ball,  signalized  the  occasion  by  presenting  Mrs.  Grant  with 
a  bouquet  composed  of  the  flowers  indigenous  to  the  vari- 
ous countries  she  passed  through  in  her  tour  around  the 
world.     These  flowers  w^ere  placed  in  regular  order,  start- 


GRAND  ARCH  ERECTED  ON  NEW  MON  HJOMERY  STREET,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  375 

ing  from  Philadelphia  and  ending  with  San  Francisco. 
The  bouquet-holder,  five  inches  long,  was  of  pure  Califor- 
nia gold,  and  inlaid  with  quartz,  and  a  collection  of  other 
metals  found  on  this  coast.  It  was  a  costly  present,  and 
will  undoubtedly  be  esteemed  as  a  precious  memento  of  the 
visit  to  California,  Mechanics'  Pavilion  was  superbly  dec- 
orated with  several  hundred  large  stars,  the  fountains  play- 
ing in  the  center  space,  opposite  the  box  reserved  for  the 
Grant  party.  This  box  was  magnificently  arranged  with 
flowers  and  flags,  satin  programmes  being  provided  for  the 
honored  guests.  Seven  different  committees,  each  com- 
posed of  nine  persons,  were  to  decide  upon  the  best-dressed 
lady,  the  best-dressed  gentleman,  and  the  most  original 
character,  lady  and  gentlem.an;  the  best  sustained  charac- 
ter, the  best-formed  lady,  the  handsomest  blonde,  the  hand- 
somest brunette,  the  best  waltzer,  the  tallest  lady,  the  short- 
est lady,  the  fattest  lady,  the  leanest  lady,  the  handsomest 
lady,  the  homeliest  gentleman,  the  best-dressed  girl,  the 
best-dressed  boy,  and  the  best-sustained  character,  boy  and 
girl.  The  prizes  were  seventy-nine  in  number.  The  only 
iadies'  committee  was  that  selected  to  decide  on  the  chil- 
dren's prizes.  At  9  o'clock  commenced  the  grand  march 
around  the  pavilion,  a  miniature  mardi  gras.  Subsequent 
arrangements  comprised  a  prize  waltz  at  11,  at  which  only 
the  competitors  were  allowed  on  the  floor,  forty  soldiers  of 
the  First  Regiment  drilling  shortly  afterwards  in  the  Gen- 
eral's presence,  and  Haverly's  Minstrels  playing  before 
him  half  an  hour  later.  Midnight  was  fixed  for  the  an- 
nouncement and  distribution  of  prizes.  The  supper  ar- 
rangements were  in  the  hands  of  the  Baldw^in  and  Palace 
hotel  chiefs.  Forty  ushers  officiated,  and  the  whole  thing 
was  conducted  on  a  scale  of  completeness  rare  even  in  older 
communities  than  San  Francisco. 

On  the  26th  General  Grant  and  party  left  on  a  special 


376  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

train  for  San  Jose.  As  it  passed  San  Mateo,  the  cadets  of 
St.  Matthew's  academy  were  drawn  up  on  a  platform  at 
"  present  arms."  Tlie  whole  population  of  the  village  be- 
hind them  greeted  the  train  with  cheers.  Flags  were  fly- 
ing all  over  the  town.  The  train  arrived  at  San  Jose  at 
1 1 130  A.  M.  There  was  an  immense  crowd  at  the  depot, 
and  the  train  was  met  by  Mayor  Archer  and  the  commit- 
tee. Upon  stepping  from  the  train,  the  Mayor,  in  a 
brief  address,  welcomed  General  Grant,  who,  in  response, 
said: 

Mr.  Mayor  and  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  —  I 
am  glad  to  see  you  all,  and  thank  you  for  this  kind  recep- 
tion. You  speak  of  my  reception  by  the  sovereigns  and 
princes  of  the  world.  I  am  prouder  of  this  than  all — this 
kindness  from  the  sovereign  people  of  my  own  country. 
Ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  thank  you. 

General  Grant  tiien,  accompanied  by  Mayor  Archer, 
entered  a  barouche  drawn  by  four  magnificent  horses.  The 
other  guests  followed,  and  the  procession  proceeded  through 
the  principal  streets  of  the  cit}',  halting  at  the  court-house, 
where  one  thousand  school  children  stood,  and  bedecked 
the  General's  carriage  with  flowers,  shortly  afterwards 
luiiting  in  singing  "America."  San  Jose  was  festooned  and 
decorated  as  befitted  a  rural  country  seat,  the  emblems  be- 
ing appropriate  and  handsome. 

At  I  o'clock  the  Fair  Grounds  were  reashed,  and  an  ex- 
hibition of  fine  stock  was  paraded  before  the  party.  A 
magnificent  Australian  horse  was  among  the  animals  ex- 
hibited. The  Mexican  veterans  were  then  introduced  to 
Grant,  and  it  was  remarked,  "  You  see.  General,  these 
veterans  still  live."  "  Yes,"  replied  Grant:  ''  most  of  those 
now  li^  ing  are  older  than  I  am  but,  when  the  last  of  them 
has  dropped  oflT,  then  I  must  be  thinking  of  departing." 

At  precisely  2  o'clock  began  the  trotting  match  between 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  377 

Gov.  Leland  Stanford's  Occident  and  Daniel  Cook's  horse 
Graves  —  the  latter  horse  winninof  in  three  straig-ht  heats, 
time  2:30,  2:20,  3:23. 

Shortly  after  4  o'clock  the  party  re-entered  the  carriages 
and  drove  to  Santa  Clara,  passing  the  old  Jesuit  Seminary, 
built  in  1773,  and  inspecting  the  splendid  grounds  of  J.  P. 
Pierce,  formerly  owned  by  Gen.  William  Lent,  of  Bodie 
Bonanza  fame.  While  the  carriages  w^ere  passing  through 
Santa  Clara  on  the  way  back,  a  number  of  tanners  in  every- 
day working-clothes  turned  out  and  greeted  their  ex-fellov,'- 
craftsman. 

San  Jose,  where  all  business  was  suspended,  was  again 
reached  at  5  o'clock,  and  here  the  illustrious  guests  were 
vouchsafed  a  season  of  rest.  As  the  evening  drew  on,  ex- 
President  Grant  received  a  number  of  citizens  at  the  iVuze- 
rias  house,  and  at  8  o'clock  took  place  the  grand  banquet, 
100  gentlemen  dining  with  Gen.  Grant,  and  twenty  ladies 
with  Mrs.  Grant.  The  party  returned  to  San  Francisco 
after  10  o'clock.  The  whole  affiiir,  under  the  auspices  of 
Mayor  Archer,  Gov.  Woods,  T.  O.  Houghton,  and  G.  F. 
Baker,  was  a  grand  success,  and  San  Jose  will  undoubtedly 
remain  enshrined  in  the  General's  memory  in  connection 
with  his  reception. 

On  the  27th  the  General  visited  the  San  Francisco  Stock 
and  Exchange  Board,  Pine  street  between  Sansome  and 
Montgomery  was  thronged  with  people  in  anticipation  of 
his  visit.  The  hall  and  lobby  were  densely  crowded,  a  lane 
for  entrance  being  kept  open  by  the  police.  The  Board- 
room which  is  a  work  of  art  in  itself,  was  tastefully 
decorated  with  flowers,  ferns  and  smilax.  Business  opened 
at  the  usual  hour  and  soon  afterwards  the  ex-President  and 
his  party  arrived.  President  Peckham  led  his  guests  to  the 
centime  of  the  arena,  those  sacred  precincts  usually  reserved 
exclusively  for  the  brokers,  and  there,  in  an  excellently 
worded  speech,  introduced   the  General  to  his  fellow-brok- 


37S  GENEliAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

er?.  The  bulls  and  bears  cheered,  and  shouted  in  unison 
for  once  in  their  lives,  and  then  Mr.  Peckham  conducted 
the  visitors  to  a  dias  canopied  with  rich  flags  of  California 
silk,  sprigs  of  evergreens,  ferns  and  verdure  in  general. 
This  dias,  a  little  to  the  callers'  right,  commanded  a  full 
view  of  the  proceedings,  which  thereupon  re-commenced 
in  good  earnest.  There  w.s  the  ordinary  hustling  and 
jostling  of  the  apparently  infuriated  maniacs,  as  they  strove 
to  obtain  their  number  of  shares,  at  live  or  ten  cents  below 
the  market  rates.  Gen.  Grant  was  much  amused  as  he  be- 
held them  swaying  to  and  fro.  Sellers  in  pursuit  of  buyers, 
and  vice  versa.  The  General  remained  until  the  close  of 
the  Comstock  call  and  then  departed,  escorted  to  the  door 
by  President  Peckham,  and  Vice-President  Lissak.  The 
passage  and  steps  were  lined  with  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
forming  an  improvised  guard  of  honor,  till  the  General 
reached  his  carriao-e. 

On  leaving  the  Stock  Board,  Gen.  Grant  visited  the 
Anglo-California  bank,  and  subsequently  the  California 
jnarket. 

About  3  o'clock  he  accompanied  Mrs.  Grant  to  the 
California  theatre  to  witness  the  last  acts  of  the  "  Color 
Guard,"  and  at  night  they  were  again  at  the  same  theater, 
with  General  and  Mrs.  McDowell  and  Mayor  and  Mrs. 
Bryant.  The  performance  consisted  of  an  opera  "  never," 
or,  perhaps  more  correctly,  "  hardly  ever,"  played  in  the 
East,  in  which  Emelie  Melville  played  "Josephine,"  and 
Frank  Unger  played  the  "Admiral's  "  part.  After  "  Sir 
Joseph  "  had  vocally  narrated  a  wholly  unfamiliar  story,  he 
was  so  loudly  applauded  that,  removing  his  hat  and  turn- 
ing to  the  mezzanino  box  to  his  left,  he  sang: 

'*And  now,  as  the  ruler  ot  the  Queen's  navee, 
I  am  pleased  our  honored  guest  to  see, 
Who  has  sailed  the  briny  ocean  o'er, 
But  has  never  seen  the  good  ship  "Pinafore." 


TOUR    AROUxVD    THE    WORLD.  379 

He's  the  only  man  in  the  world,  do  you  see, 

That  has  never  met  the  ruler  ot  the  Queen's  navee." 

Whereat  the  audience   applauded  enthusiastically,  and 
Mrs.  Grant  smiled.     As  there  were  no  physicians  about,  it 
is  impossible  to  give  a  diagnosis  of  Grant's  symptoms  after, 
seeing  "  Pinafore."     Suffice  it   to  say  he  is  still  an  Ameri- 
can, and  "  its  greatly  to  his  credit." 

At  10  o'clock  the  General  visited  the  camp-fires  of  the 
Federal  and  Confederate  soldiers  and  sailors,  at  Mechanics' 
Pavilion.  Only  ex-soldiers  w^ere  admitted  to  the  floor,  and 
it  w^as  estimated  there  were  five  thousand  of  these  present, 
while  the  galleries  were  crowded  with  spectators.  Not 
only  coffee  and  hard-tack,  but  beer,  cheese,  crackers  and 
plug  tobacco  formed  prominent  features  of  the  entertain- 
ment. There  seemed  to  be  a  lack  of  organization  at  this 
camp-fire.  Invitations  were  issued  by  thousands  in  excess 
of  the  capacity  of  the  building.  The  great  idea  of  the 
managers  seemed  to  have  been  a  big  demonstration,  and 
to  that  end  tickets  were  distributed  right  and  left,  admit- 
ting "  bearer  and  ladies."  The  doors  appear  to  have  been 
placed  in  charge  of  irresponsible  youngstei's,  who  received 
those  best  qualified  to  enter,  with  fixed  bayonets.  Occa- 
sionally a  squad  of  men  would  enliven  the  scene  by  charg- 
ing the  surging  crowd,  and  those  without  tickets  seemed, 
on  the  whole,  to  stand  a  better  chance  of  getting  in  than 
those  with  tickets. 

Crowds  forced  their  way  into  the  place  until  the  floor 
must  have  contained  from  7,000  to  8,000  persons.  They 
climbed  on  chairs,  on  tables,  and  many  were  the  break- 
downs and  numerous  the  screams.  Meanwhile  the  sentinel 
barred  the  doors,  and  thus  excluded  men  like  Gen.  Mc- 
Comb  and  Marcus  Boruck.  The  veterans  outside  were 
indignant  at  being  left  out,  grew  uproarious,  and  some  got 
step-ladders  and  scaled  the  walls,  entering  by  the  windows. 
Then  sentinels  from  within  battened  down  the  windows. 


3S0  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

while  policemen  withdrew  the  ladders.  Fortunately  no> 
one  was  injured,  but  a  very  bad  feeling  prevailed.  On  the 
estrade  beneath  which  General  Grant  was  seated  were 
tents,  cannon,  and  masses  of  bunting.  General  Grant,  in 
reply  to  his  health,  expressed  his  pleasure  at  being  among 
the  veterans.  All  the  orators  who  followed  bellowed  forth 
their  remarks,  and  a  lady  orator,  reciting  some  heroic 
verses,  pitched  her  voice  at  about  sixty-horse  power. 
Ladies  and  invited  guests  fared  no  better  than  any  one  else. 
It  was  a  scene  notably  never  to  be  forgotten  by  those 
present. 

General  Grant'  s  reception  of  public  school  children, 
at  Woodward's  Gardens,  on  the  29th,  was  the  most  enthu- 
siastic ovation  he  had  yet  received.  Before  eleven  o'clock 
not  less  than  twenty  thousand  youngsters  swarmed  the 
Gardens,  while  the  street  cars  were  jammed,  and  thousands 
making  their  way  to  the  rendezvous  on  foot.  At  1 1 :30  the 
General's  arrival  was  heralded  by  a  discharge  of  cannon, 
and  the  vociferous  cheers  of  Lincoln  school  boys,  who 
were  drawn  up  at  the  entrance  as  a  guard  of  honor. 
Escorted  by  the  Board  of  Education,  he  walked  between 
the  files  of  children,  crowded  in  every  avenue,  to  the 
pavillion,  where  a  stage  had  been  arranged  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  party.  Ten  thousand  boys  and  girls  were 
crowded  in  the  building,  and  as  the  General  made  his 
appearance,  the  cheers,  stamping,  whistling  and  "cat  call- 
ing" were  deafening,  while  from  every  part  of  the  building 
bouquets  rained  upon  the  stage  and  the  occupants.  After  a 
few  minutes  the  enthusiastic  youngsters  were  reduced  to 
comparative  quiet,  when  Mr.  Heister,  President  of  the 
Board  of  Education,  addressed  General  Grant  as  follows: 

"General  Grant:  Your  loyalty  to  the  public 
school  system  of  the  United  States  has  impelled  the 
school  children  of  San  Francisco  to  extend  this  special 
greeting.     The  children,  their  parents,  and  the  Board  of 


TOUR    AllOUXD    THE    WORLD.  3S1 

Education,  recognize  in  you  a  true  and  fearless  friend  of 
popular  education,  and  are  proud  to  look  you  in  the  face 
and  take  you  by  the  hand.  Allow  me,  sir,  to  present  you 
to  the  children  and  teachers  connected  with  the  public 
schools  of  vSan  Francisco.  These  happy  faces  will  tell, 
their  own  stor3^  " 

Another  uproarious  outbreak  of  applause  followed,  after 
which  the  General  addressed  his  audience  to  the  foll(?wing 
effect : 

"  It  is  a  gratifying  sight  to  witness  this  evidence  of  edu- 
cational privileges  affoixled  by  this  young  city.  The  crowds 
gathered  Inside  and  outside  this  building  indicate  that 
every  child  of  an  age  fit  for  school  is  provided  for.  When 
education  is  universally  diffused  we  may  feel  assured  of  the 
permanency  and  perpetuity  of  our  institutions.  The  great- 
est danger  to  our  people  'grows  out  of  ignorance,  and  this 
evidence  of  universality  of  education  is  the  best  guarantee 
of  your  loyalty  to  American  principles." 

More  appropriate  remarks  could  not  have  been  made, 
;md  they  deserve  to  be  treasured  up  by  the  people  as  the 
embodiment  of  a  great  and  incalculably  important  truth. 
No  tampering  with  popular  education  should  be  tolerated 
ill  any  part  of  the  country.  In  the  large  cities  the  danger 
of  this  is  very  considerable. 

At  the  conclusion  of  his  remarks,  Gen.  Grant  and  the 
Board  of  Education  made  their  way  out  of  the  building, 
and,  following  the  winding  avenues  of  the  gardens,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  great  amphitheatre  on  the  other  side  of  the 
grounds.  Children  by  thousands  lined  the  walks,  and 
j^elted  the  party  with  bouquets,  while  shrill  cheers  and  the 
continual  rattle  of  drums  with  which  each  class  was  pro- 
vided, created  a  bedlam  of  noise.  On  i"eaching  the 
amphitheatre,  where  at  least  20,000  boys  and  girls  were 
massed,  the  storm  of  floral  missiles  became    heavier,  and. 


3S2  GENERAL    U.    S.    ORaNt's 

on  gaining  the  stand  near  the  exit,  the  party  proceeded, 
thoroughly  dilapidated  and  crushed  in  appearance. 

The  General  took  a  seat  at  the  front  of  the  platform, 
and  the  assembled  throngs  then  marched  by  to  enable  each 
ofie  to  obtain  a  good  look  at  him.  As  the  enthusiastic 
throng  surged  by,  hundreds  of  hands  were  thrust  out  for  a 
passing  shake,  and  the  demand  for  autographs  was  alto- 
gether beyond  the  General's  ability  to  supply.  The 
shower  of  flowers  was  kept  up,  despite  the  efforts  of  teach- 
ers and  members  of  the  Board  to  stay  it,  and  the  party 
was  almost  overwhelmed  with  these  tributes.  At  least 
30,000  children  were  present,  and,  though  the  teachers 
were  able  to  maintain  reasonably  good  order,  it  was  impos- 
sible to  restrain  the  holiday  spirits  of  the  mass  within  the 
bounds  of  decorum. 

At  I  o'clock  the  young  legions  were  still  marching 
past  in  review  with  drums,  banners,  mottoes,  and  flags, 
while  the  General  maintained  his  position  and  faced  the 
constant  fire  of  bouquets  with  his  accustomed  tenacity  and 
pluck. 

At  2  o'clock  the  General  returned  to  the  Palace  hotel 
and  wrote  some  private  letters.  At  4  o'clock  he,  with  his 
family,  drove  down  to  Milbrae,  where  he  dined  with  a 
small  party  at  D,  O.  Mills'  house-  returning  late  in  the 
evening  to  the  Palace  hotel. 

Gen.  Grant  and  party  left  Oakland  wharf  for  the  Yo- 
semite  Valley  at  8:30  A.  M.,  Sept.  30th.  The  wharf  was 
covered  with  a  dense  mass  of  people.  As  the  train  moved 
off  three  cheers  were  given.  The  General  occupied  a 
special  drawing-room  car,  and  accompanying  him  were  Mrs. 
Grant,  U.  S.  Grant,  Jr.,  G.  W.  Dent,  Gen.  John  F.  Miller 
wife,  and  daughter;  Miss  Flora  Sharon,  Miss  Jennie  Flood, 
and  John  Russell  Young.  Throngs  of  people  were  gath- 
ered  at  various  way  stations.      At  Martinez,  a  salute  was 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  383 

fired,  and  near  the  depot  the  houses  were  decorated  with 
the  National  colors.  At  Antioch,  school  children  were 
drawn  up  in  line  upon  the  depot  platform,  and  waved  their 
handkerchiefs  as  the  train  moved  past.  At  Stockton,  the 
General  was  welcomed  by  Mayor  Hyat  and  escorted  along 
a  line  composed  of  military  companies,  the  Stockton  fire 
department,  Union  veterans,  and  veterans  of  the  Mexican 
war,  to  a  carriage  drawn  by  four  white  horses.  The  pro- 
cession then  formed  and  traversed  the  principal  streets  until 
the  court  house  was  reached,  where  there  was  a  concourse 
of  several  thousand  school  girls  dressed  in  white,  who 
saluted  the  visitors  by  waving  'kerchiefs  and  clapping  their 
hands.  After  passing  the  procession  in  review  the  General 
was  driven  to  the  Yosemite  house,  where  he  received  the 
prominent  citizens. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  reception  at  the  Yosemite 
house,  the  General  retired  to  his  apartments.  At  4  o'clock 
the  distinguished  guest  and  his  party  entered  the  dining- 
room  to  partake  of  a  collation  offered  by  the  leading  citi- 
zens. After  viands  had  been  discussed.  Gen.  Grant,  in 
reply  to  an  address  of  welcome  by  Mayor  Hyat,  said : 

"  Gentlemen:  I  am  very  much  pleased  to  be  back 
in  your  city  once  more,  which  I  have  not  seen  in  twenty- 
five  years.  I  am  very  much  obliged  for  the  hearty  recep- 
tion at  your  hands,  and  will  say  that,  though  I  have  been 
here  several  times,  I  have  never  stayed  so  long  before. 
When  I  was  on  the  Coast  before  I  visited  Stockton  six 
times,  but  this  is  the  first  time  a  roof  ever  sheltered  me  in 
your  city.  Among  many  gentlemen  I  met  to-day  was  one 
who  was  sure  he  knew  me  at  Knight's  Ferry  in  1S49. 
While  I  would  not  dispute  the  gentleman's  word,  I  was 
never  on  this  side  of  the  Rockies  previous  to  1853.  I  was 
only  three  times  at  Knight's  Ferry  in  1852  and  1854,  and 
think    some   one  must   have   been  personating  me  there. 


3S4  GENERAY    U.    S.    GRANt's 

[Loud  laughter.]    However,  I  am  glad  to  meet  you  to-day» 
and  can  never  henceforth  deny  being  in  Stockton  in  1S79." 

Dr.  G.  A.  Shurtleff  and  State  Senator  Hudson,  spoke 
briefly,  after  which  the  company  broke  up.  The  General 
and  party  left  at  7:20  for  the  Yosemite,  via  Madeira, 
which  point  they  reached  after  midnight,  and  remaining  in 
the  sleeping-car  during  the  night,  started  by  stage  directly 
after  breakfast. 

Previous  to  his  departure  from  Madeira,  the  General 
had  a  brief  reception  with  citizens  and  residents  of  Fresno 
City,  and  among  the  number  who  congratulated  him  upon 
his  return  to  his  native  land  were  several  Union  and  Con- 
federate veterans.  At  Fresno  Flat  he  received  further 
congratulatory  calls  from  Fresno  County  veterans.  The 
coach  which  conveyed  the  party  was  handsomely  decor- 
ated. Thirty -six  horses  were  used  in  the  trip,  six  changes 
being  made.  Upon  the  arrival  of  the  distinguished  party 
at  Clarke's  Station  they  were  met  at  the  stage  and  wel- 
comed by  J.  B.  Bruce  and  S.  Washburn,  and  escorted  to 
the  parlor  of  the  hotel.  The  Mariposa  brass  band  had 
crossed  the  mountains,  a  distance  of  thirty -six  miles,  to  join 
in  the  ceremonies,  playing  "  Hail  to  the  Chief."  Dinner 
followed,  after  which  an  informal  reception  was  held  in 
the  hotel  parlors.  The  General  was  serenaded,  and  retired 
at  an  early  hour. 

On  the  morning  of  October  3d  the  General  and  party 
entered  the  Yosemite  Valley  from  Clark's  Station,  the 
General  and  Mrs.  Grant  occupying  the  front  seat  of  the 
"  coach  and  six,"  with  the  driver,  fully  determined  to  view 
the  delightful  scenery,  which  the  visitors  said  surpassed 
anything  they  had  observed  on  the  Rhine  or  in  Switzer- 
land. Mrs.  Grant  was  even  more  pleased  than  the  ex- 
President,  Monroe,  the  driver,  stating  to  a  bystander,  "  I 
never  hauled  a  lady  over  these  roads  who  was  so  enthusi- 
astic." 


TOUK  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


3S5 


At  Lookout  Point,  whence  there  is  a  view  of  the  distant 
San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  hazy  Coast  Range,  the  stage 
stopped  awhile.  At  Inspiration  Point,  whence  a  sight  is  had 
of  the  whole  valley,  the  point  of  view  in  some  of  Hill's 
pictures,  the  stage  again  stopped,  and  ever}'  one  alighted. 
The  General  mounted  the  top  of  the  stage,  and  sat  for  some 
time  viewing  the  splendid  prospect,  and  evidently  appreci- 
ated fully  its  grandeur  and  beauty.  When  all  were  satis- 
fied, the  stage  drove  down  the  winding  road  and  on  to 
Bernard's  seven  miles  distant.  While  going  through  the 
valley,  the  General  allowed  no  object  of  interest  to  escape 
him.  He  noted  all  the  domes,  roads  and  peaks,  and  asked 
Monroe  about  bights  and  distances.  The  rest  were  equally 
delighted.  At  the  lower  bridge  over  the  Merced,  a  dozen 
blasts  had  been  set,  which  were  fired  in  succession  as  the 
stage  was  passing,  unrolling  terrific  echoes.  Nearly  all  the 
population  of  the  valley,  including  the  tourists,  were  on 
horseback,  skurrying  all  the  roads,  at  the  windows,  or  on 
the  porches  of  the  hotels,  which  were  hung  with  flags  and 
liberally  adorned  with  boughs  of  evergreen.  As  the  stage 
approached  Leidig's,  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel  came  out 
and  tendered  the  hospitalities  of  his  place  to  the  party.  At 
Black's  the  guests  were  on  the  front  porch.  The  stage 
dashed  on  up  to  Bernard's,  which  had  been  trimmed  with 
evergreens  and  flags,  and  in  many  ways  given  a  gala  ap- 
pearance, though  Mr.  Bernard  had  but  a  few  hours'  notice 
of  the  honor  intended  him.  As  the  vehicle  neared  the 
steps,  the  Mariposa  band,  brought  here  for  the  purpose, 
woke  the  echoes  of  the  surrounding  cliffs  with  "  Hail  to 
the  Chief."  Some  cheering  followed,  and  there  was  a  gen- 
eral rush  from  the  neighboring  buildings  toward  the  hotel. 
The  party  were  hardly  recognizable  for  dust.  There  were 
few  greetings;  all  were  at  once  shown  to  their  rooms. 

The  following  days  were  spent  in  exploring  and  visit- 
ing principal  points  of  interest  —  Glacier   Point,  Sentinel 


386  GENERAI,    U.    S.    GIJANt's 

Dome,  El  Capitan,  the  Three  Graces,  the  Three  Brothers, 
Half  Dome,  North  Dome  and  Yosemite  Rock.  After 
spending  a  few  as  delightful  days  a<^  the  General  had  yet 
seen,  he,  with  his  party  returned  to  San  Francisco,  via  of 
the  Big  Trees  :nid  Mariposa  and  Merced.  Arriving  by 
special  train  0:1  the  morning  of  the  7th,  ;;fter  spending  a 
few  hours  in  the  city,  the  General  and  pirty  left  earlj 
in  the  afternoon,  with  Senator  Sharon,  for  Belmont,  where, 
on  the  following  evening,  a  grand  reception  was  tendered 
him  by  Senator  .Sharon.  This  fete  at  Belmont  was  the 
most  brilliant  gathering  that  had  ever  taken  place  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.  The  richness  of  ladies'  costumes,  the  mag- 
nificence of  internal  decorations,  and  the  brilliancy  of  the 
superb  grounds,  illuminated  by  thousands  of  Chinese  lan- 
terns, render  the  scene  one  of  unsurpassed  splendor.  The 
preparations  were  worthy  of  Senator  Sharon's  i-cputation. 
Nothing  had  been  omitted  to  give  enjoyment  to  the  guests, 
and  lend  eclat  to  the  occasion.  The  picture  gallery  of 
the  museum  had  been  transformed  into  a  vast  banqueting- 
room,  where,  among  other  preparations  for  the  visitors, 
figured  one  hundred  baskets  of  champagne  and  fifteen 
thousand  Eastern  oysters.  Three  trains  took  the  city  guests 
down.  The  first,  advertised  to  start  at  7:30,  left  fifteen 
minutes  earlier,  owing  to  the  number  of  persons  waitin- 
on  the  platform.  Some  of  these  had  arrived  at  the  depot 
as  early  as  six  o'clock. 

Belmont  was  reached  in  about  an  hour,  and  there 
abundance  of  vehicles  had  been  provided  to  convey  the 
party  to  the  mansion  about  a  mile  distant.  Considerii.g 
that  each  train  consisted  of  ten  cars,  it  will  be  understooxl 
this  was  no  slight  task.  Numbers  of  ladies  carried  their 
toilets  in  baskets  with  them,  so  that  the  uninitiated  might 
have  thought  them  bent  on  a  picnic  excursion. 

Nearly  2,500  guests  were  present.  Dancing  and  ban- 
queting were  the  order  of  the  evening. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  387 

At  II  o'clock  the  following  morning,  Gen.  Grant  re- 
turned to  the  city,  and  at  i3  o'clock  was  received  by  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Board  of  Trade  at  the  Mer- 
chants' Exchange  Building,  in  a  manner  exhibiting  the 
greatest  respect  and  admiration  for  the  illustrious  man.  The 
two  mercantile  societies  attended  in  full  force.  The  rooms 
of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  were  decorated  in  a  gor- 
geous style  for  the  occasion.  Gen.  Grant  was  escorted  to 
the  platform  from  the  Chairman's  desk  by  the  Hon.  J.  P. 
Jones,  and  was  met  there  by  Governor-elect  Perkins,  the 
President  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  Jacob  T. 
Taber,  President  of  the  Board  of  Trade.  Mr.  Jones  intro^ 
duced  the  General  with  these  words  2 

"Presidents  AND  jSIembers  of  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce  and  Board  of  Trade:  I  have  the  honor  of 
introducing  a  most  distinguished  citizen  of  the  United 
States,  honored  at  home  and  abroad.  Gen.  Ulysses  S* 
Grant." 

After  enthusiastic  cheers,  Gov.  Perkins  made  the  follow- 
ing address  of  welcome. 

"General  Grant:  The  merchants  of  San  Francisco,, 
represented  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Board  of 
Trade,  have  the  honor  to  pay  you  their  respects,  desiring, 
as  merchants,  to  express  their  appreciation  of  your  services 
to  our  common  country,  recognizing  the  fact  that  universal 
prosperity  is  best  promoted  by  domestic  and  national  inter- 
course, and  that  through  commerce  and  trade  the  nations 
of  the  world  are  brought  in  inost  intimate  relations,  to 
which  great  end  peace  is  absolutely  essential.  They  regard 
you  as  the  great  chieftain  whose  military  genius  restored 
domestic  peace  and  civil  law  throughout  our  country.  In 
the  hour  of  triumph  your  magnanimity  did  not  allow^  you 
to  forget  that  the  good-will  of  all  our  countrymen  was  as 
necessary  as  the  success  of  the  armies  under  your  command. 
When  intrusted  with  the  highest  office  in  the  gift  of  the 


388  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

people  you  proved  to  the  world  how  war  could  be  avoided 
and  peace  secured  by  friendly  arbitration.  We  regard  you 
as  an  honorable  representative  of  our  Republican  citizen- 
ship, more  especially  to  be  so  esteemed  because,  although 
successful  in  our  war  you  have  so  fully  appreciated  the  ad- 
vantages of  peace,  while  the  honors  bestowed  upon  you  by 
foreign  potentates  have  never  caused  you  to  swerve  from 
the  path  of  Republican  simplicity  and  true  American  citi- 
zenship. The  merchants  of  San  Francisco  welcome  you 
to  your  native  land,  wishing  you  a  happy  return  to  your 
home,  many  years  of  happiness,  and  an  old  age  which  shall 
command  the  continued  honor  and  the  reverence  of  your 
countrymen." 

General  Grant  replied  as  follows: 

"  Gentlemen  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  and 
Board  of~  Trade  of  San  Francisco:  I  hardlv  know 
how  to  express  my  gratification  at  the  kind  and  cordial 
reception  you,  and  not  only  you,  but  the  people  in  every 
place  in  the  State  and  city  that  I  have  visited  have  given 
me.  There  is  no  question  but  that  the  prosperity  of  the 
country  depends  upon  the  class  of  people  you  gentlemen 
represent.  It  requires  just  such  people  as  we  see  here  to 
inake  it  jDrofitable  for  a  man  to  labor  with  his  hands;  also, 
to  make  profits  for  the  whole  nation.  Anybody  who  has 
been  over  the  world  as  I  have,  has  seen  the  degradation  to 
which  laborers  have  fallen  without  some  head  to  guide 
them  into  the  right  course.  In  other  countries  the  laborer 
is  sunk  far  below  the  poorest  and  most  abject  citizen  of  this 
,  country.  We  have  not  a  healthy  person  in  America  who 
is  willing  to  work,  who  is  not  better  off  than  the  best 
laborers  in  any  other  country.  We  need  not  be  envious 
or  jealous  of  any  country  in  the  world." 

Applause  and  hand  shaking  followed. 

A  scroll  on  which  the  address  of  the  two  associations 
was    engrossed    in    a    handsome    manner,  signed  by  the 


TOUK  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  3S9 

presidents  and  secretaries,  was  presented  to  tlie  General, 
enclosed  in  a  beautiful  cylindrical  case  of  Russia  leather, 
with  this  inscription  embossed  in  gold  letters: 

"  To  General  U.  S.  Grant,  from  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce and  Board  of  Trade  of  San  Francisco." 

After  leaving  the  Merchants'  Exchange  the  General 
drove  to  the  Palace  Hotel,  and  thence  to  Front  street 
wharf,  where  a  vast  crowd  had  gathered  to  see  him  depart 
on  the  steamer  St.  Paul  for  Oregon. 

The  steamer  and  all  other  shipping  in  the  vicinity  were 
gayly  decorated.  As  General  Grant  went  aboard  a  beau- 
tiful American  flag  was  run  up  to  the  masthead.  There 
was  no  cheering  among  the  jDCople,  who  seemed  sorry  to 
have  him  go.  Many  distinguished  peoj^le  went  on  board 
to  bid  him  good-b}-.  The  party  from  the  tug,  besides  the 
General  and  his  wife,  included,  among  others,  U.  S.  Grant, 
Jr.,  Miss  Jennie  Flood,  ex-Governor  Low,  wife  and  daugh- 
ter, Senators  J.  P.  Jones  and  A.  A.  Sargent,  Lieutenant 
Otis,  John  Russell  Young,  Louis  Sloss,  Captain  Niebaum, 
Martin  Bulger,  Fred.  Kabe,  C.  F.  Crocker  and  Mrs.  Mc- 
Dowell and  daughter. 

At  2:15  the  St.  Paul  swung  gracefully  out  from  the 
wharf,  amid  \vaving  of  handkerchiefs,  quiet  farewells,  and 
admiring  remarks  of  the  people. 

The  steamer  St.  Paul,  with  General  Grant  and  party 
on  board,  arrived  at  Portland,  Oregon,  on  the  14th,  the 
citizens'  committee  and  members  of  the  press,  having  joined 
the  General  at  Vancouver.  Just  before  leaving  the  wharf 
at  the  latter  place  for  Portland,  the  Honorable  H.  W.  Cor- 
bitt,  chairman  of  the  committee  of  reception,  made  the  fol- 
lowing address  of  welcome: 

General  Grant:  I  take  pleasure  in  introducing 
to  you  this  committee,  and  these  distinguished  officers 
and  gentlemen.  We  come  to  w^elcome  you,  and  tender 
you  the  hospitalities  of  the  citizens  of   Portland;  also  to 


39°  GENERAL    U.    S.    ORANt's 

the  friends  that  accompany  you.  We  evidently  do  not 
now  welcome  the  Lieutenant  that  left  us  twenty-six  years 
ago;  neither  can  we  receive  you  as  a  Lieutenant-General, 
or  as  a  General  of  the  once  great  army  of  the  Republic, 
nor  as  President  of  these  once  more  united  States;  but  we 
do  receive  you  as  a  pre-eminently  distinguished  citizen, 
who  has  enjoyed  all  these  honors,  who  has  won  so  many  lau- 
rels, and  who  has  worn  them  with  so  much  modesty  and 
grace.  It  will  be  the  pleasing  duty  of  another  to  express 
more  fully  our  sentiments,  at  the  general  reception  tendered 
you  Wednesday  evening  at  our  new  pavilion,  where  we 
shall  have  the  pleasure  of  presenting  to  you  friends  and 
citizens  from  all  parts  of  the  State  and  the  adjoining  terri- 
tory, who  desire  personally  to  testify  their  appreciation  of 
you  and  your  valuable  services  to  the  nation.  You  are 
welcome,  thrice  welcome,  to  Oregon.  It  will  give  us 
pleasure  to  escort  you  to  our  city  at  your  earliest  conven- 
ience, where  we  hope  to  make  your  stay  pleasant  and  agree- 
able. 

General  Grant  replied  in  a  few  words,  simply  express- 
ing his  thanks. 

At  least  twenty  thousand  persons  had  assembled  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  dock,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  distin- 
guished guest,  amid  the  thunders  of  artillery,  the  clangor 
of  bells  and  the  screaming  of  whistles,  the  St.  Paul  came 
alongside  her  dock. 

General  Gi-ant  was  met  at  the  wharf  by  Mayor  Thomp- 
son, who  said:  "General  Grant,  as  Mayor  of  the  city  of 
Portland,  on  behalf  of  the  citizens  of  this  city,  we  extend 
to  you  welcome,  and  tender  you  the  hospitalities  of  Port- 
land." 

General  Grant  simply  replied:  " Mayor  Thompson,  I 
thank  you." 

The  party  were  then  escorted  to  carriages  in  waiting. 
The  procession,  under  charge  of  Grand  Marshal  Colonel 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  39 1 

McCracken,  at  once  formed  in  the  following  order:  Grand 
Marshal  and  aides,  Twenty-first  Regimental  band,  carriage 
containing  General  Grant,  jNIayor  D.  P.  Thompson,  Gov- 
ernor W.  W.  Thayer,  and  General  O.  O.  Howard.  The 
first  division  consisted  of  forty  carriages  containing  promi- 
nent visitors  and  officials.  Federal,  State  and  military.  Fol- 
lowing these  came  carriages  containing  officers  of  the  Munic- 
ipal Government  of  Portland  and  East  Portland,  members 
of  the  Washington  Territorial  Legislature,  and  many  other 
invited  guests  from  abroad.  The  second  division  comprised 
various  military  companies,  United  States  troops,  and  four 
militia  companies  of  this  city.  The  third  division  consisted 
of  the  entire  Fire  Department  of  Portland,  five  companies 
with  their  steam  engines  gayly  trimmed  and  decked  with 
flags  and  ribbons.  The  fourth  division  was  composed  of 
members  of  the  Grand  Army,  civic  societies  and  citizens. 

The  procession  arriving  opposite  the  Central  school 
building,  were  met  by  two  thousand  or  more  school  child- 
ren, who  were  ranged  along  the  sidewalk,  dressed  In  gay 
holiday  attire.  When  the  carriage  containing  General 
Grant  came  opposite  the  centre  column,  the  pupils'  proces- 
sion halted.  Four  little  girls,  each  beai'ing  in  her  hand  a 
large  and  elegant  bouquet,  stepped  forvv^ard  from  the  front 
line  and  advanced  to  the  carriage  in  which  General  Gi'ant 
sat,  and  presented  him  with  the  floral  offerings.  He  took 
the  tributes  and  bowed  his  thanks.  When  the  quartet 
withdrew  and  resumed  their  places  in  line,  two  thousand 
childish  voices  Immediately  struck  ujd  the  National  anthem 
"  America."  At  the  close  of  the  singing,  the  Twenty-first 
Regiment  band  responded,  and  rendered  an  appropriate 
air. 

The  procession  then  resumed  its  line  of  march.  These 
exercises  were  witnessed  by  many  thousands,  and  consti- 
tuted one  of  the  most  pleasing  and  attractive  episodes  of 
the  day's  demonstration.    Continuing  the  line  line  of  march, 


392  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

the  procession  moved  down  Morrison  to  Front,  and  dowrr 
that  street  to  the  Clarendon  hotel,  where  General  Grant 
and  party  stopped.  The  city  was  attired  in  gay  holiday 
trapjDings.  Front  and  First  streets  presented  to  the  eye  a. 
perfect  wilderness  of  flags  and  bunting  for  nearly  a  mile.. 
Shipping  in  the  port  displayed  a  profusion  of  flags  and 
streamers  on  every  hand.  Enthusiasm  assumed  a  form 
quite  extravagant.  For  hours  before  the  procession 
moved,  and  during  the  time  it  was  m  motion,  the  streets 
were  jammed  for  many  blocks  by  eager  and  enthusiastic 
thousands.  x\t  times  the  streets  were  so  crowded  that  the 
procession  moved  with  difficulty. 

In  the  evening  the  General  visited  the  Mechanics* 
Pavillion,  and  attended  a  ball,  at  which  one  thousand  per- 
sons were  present.  Here  he  met  many  old  comrades  in 
arms. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  15th,  General  Grant  vis- 
ited, by  special  invitation,  several  public  schools  in  the  city 
in  company  with  Mayor  Thompson.  Short  addresses 
were  made  by  the  children,  to  which  the  General  res- 
ponded. On  taking  his  leave  Grant  was  heartily  cheered 
by  the  children. 

In  the  evening  he  was  honored  with  a  reception  at  the 
Cascades,  which  was  an  enthusiastic  and  fitting  tribute. 
Eight  thousand  persons  were  present.  Ex-Senator  Corbitt 
welcomed  the  distinguished  party,  and  was  followed  by 
Judge  Strong  in  a  most  hearty  manner.  General  Grant 
responded  at  some  length,  alluding  to  his  early  residence 
and  acquaintance  on  the  Pacific  Coast.     He  concluded: 

"In  your  remarks  you  have  alluded  to  the  struggles  of 
the  past.  I  am  glad  that  they  are  at  an  end.  It  never  was- 
a  pleasure  to  me  that  they  had  a  beginning.  The  result 
has  left  us  a  nation  to  be  proud  of,  strong  at  home,  and 
respected  abroad.  Our  reputation  has  extended  beyond  the 
civilized  nations;  it  has  penetrated  even  in  the  less  civilized. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  7,9$ 

parts  of  the  earth.  In  my  travels  I  have  noticed  that  for- 
eign nations  appear  to  respect  us  more  than  we  respect 
ourselves.  I  have  noticed  the  grandeur  at  which  we  have 
been  estimated  by  other  poweis,  and  their  judgments 
should  jrive  us  a  higher  estimate  of  our  own  jrreatness. 
The}'  recognize  that  poverty,  as  they  luiderstand  it,  is  not 
known  with  us.  And  the  man  of  comparative  affluence, 
with  them,  is  sometimes  no  better  clad  or  fed  than  our  pau- 
per. Nowhere  are  there  better  elements  of  success  than 
on  the  Pacific  Coast.  Here  those  who  fought  on  opjwsite' 
sides  during  the  war  are  now  peacefully  associated  together 
in  a  country  of  which  they  all  have  the  same  right  to  be 
proud.  I  thank  the  j^eople  again,  through  you,  Judge 
Strong,  for  this  reception." 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  response.  General  Grant  Vv'as". 
presented  to  the  citizens.  He  remained  at  the  Pavillion 
about  an  hour,  during  which  time  thousands  came  forward- 
and  shook  hands  with  the  guest.  On  leaving  the  Pavillion 
the  party  proceeded  to  the  Newmarket  theatre  to  witness 
a  rendition  of  the  military  drama,  "  Ours." 

On  the  1 6th,  the  General  and  party  visited  Salem. 
They  were  met  at  the  depot  by  a  large  crowd  of  citi- 
zens. Alembers  of  the  Common  Council  acted  as  a  com- 
mittee of  reception,  and  were  in  waiting  at  the  depot.^ 
Mayor  G.  W.  Gray  met  the  Ex-President  at  the  platform.j, 
and  delivered  a  brief  address  of  welcome,  to  which  a  very 
short  response  was  made.  The  entire  party  then  entered 
carriages  and  proceeded  to  the  hotel.  As  the  procession 
filed  past  the  court  house,  General  Grant  was  saluted  by 
pupils  with  hearty  cheers.  The  procession  marched  on  to 
the  hotel,  and  reaching  which,  the  party  alighted  froin  the 
carriages  and  were  conducted  into  the  parlor.  An  address 
of  welcome  was  delivered  by  S.  C.  Adams,  to  which  the 
Ex-President  responded  in  brief  and  fitting  terms.  The 
doors  of  the  parlor  of  the  hotel  were  thrown  open,  and  a 


394 


GENERAL    U.    S.    GKANT's 


general  public  reception  followed.  The  reception  lasted 
about  an  hour,  during  which  time  over  one  thousand  per- 
sons passed  through  the  room  and  were  presented  to  Gen- 
eral Grant  and  the  other  members  of  the  party.  At  two 
o'clock  the  reception  ended,  and  the  guests  were  escorted 
to  the  dining  room,  where  a  collation  was  spread;  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  persons  sat  down  to  the  lunch. 
Among  the  party  were  Governor  Thayer,  R.  P.  Earhart, 
Secretary  of  State,  and  other  State  officials.  Lunch  being 
over,  the  party  took  carriages,  and,  preceded  by  bands, 
marched  to  the  depot,  and  took  a  special  train  for  Portland 
ill  four  o'clock.  Salem  was  handsomely  decorated  in 
ho..or  of  the  event,  and  great  enthusiasm  was  manifested. 
General  Grant  stated  that  it  was  the  first  time  he  had  ever 
visited  the  city,  and  expressed  himself  as  being  gratified 
with  its  handsome,  thrifty  appearance,  and  the  hearty  wel- 
come accorded  him. 

At  Gervais  the  citizens  assembled  at  the  depot,  and 
gave  General  Grant  a  hearty  welcome.  Flags  were  dis- 
played from  many  buildings.  The  train  stopped  for  only  a 
few  minutes.  At  Aurora  a  like  enthusiastic  welcome  was 
given.  At  Oregon  City  over  one  thousand  persons  had 
gathered  at  the  depot,  and  received  him  with  deafening 
cheers  and  strains  of  music.  Mayor  Randall  appeared  on 
the  platform,  and  In  a  few  appropriate  words  welcomed 
the  General,  who  responded  by  thanking  him.  The  train 
stopped  but  a  few  moments,  but  hundreds  improved  the 
opportunity  to  shake  hands  with  him. 

In  the  evenins:  he  attended  a  grand  sacred  concert  at 
Turn  Halle,  given  by  the  Handel  and  Hayden  Society,  and 
the  following  day  the  entire  party  sailed  on  the  steamer 
St.  Paul  for  San  Francisco. 

On  the  morning  of  October  3i,  the  steamer  St.  Paul, 
with  General  Grant  and  party  on  board,  arrived  at  San 
Francisco,  and  the  same  evening  they  attended  a  reception 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  395 

at  the  residence  of  Cliarles  Crocker.  The  house  was  ele- 
gantly decorated  for  the  occasion,  and  a  brilHant  company 
numbering  nearly  eight  hundred  were  present. 

On  the  23d,  the  General  and  party  visited  Vallejo, 
inspected  the  Mare  Island  works,  and  then  boarded  the 
train  for  Sacramento,  arriving  there  at  one  o'clock,  p.  m. 
All  along  the  route  they  were  heartily  greeted  at  stations, 
and  a  large  concourse  of  people  was  at  the  depot  when  the 
train  arrived  at  Sacramento.  A  procession  was  formed 
which  competely  filled  the  neighboring  streets.  Gov.  Irwin 
and  Mayor  Turner  escorted  their  distinguished  visitor  to 
a  carriage;  after  marching  through  the  principal  streets,  the 
procession  halted  at  the  Capitol,  where  the  Hon.  Henry 
Edgerton  delivered  an  address  of  \velcome. 

General  Grant  responded,  thanking  the  people  of  the  city 
and  State  for  their  warm  reception,  which  was  alike  at 
every  place  on  the  coast  which  he  had  visited.  He  said : 
■"  Of  all  the  hospitality  bestowed,  all  the  honor  conferred, 
there  has  been  nothing  so  grateful  to  mv  heart  as  the  recep- 
tions I  have  received  at  the  hands  of  the  people  here.  I 
would  not  say  what  has  been  done  abroad.  It  has  been 
all  that  could  be  done  for  mortal,  but  it  has  not  been  done 
for  me.  It  has  been  done  for  the  people  whom  I  see  before 
me,  —  for  the  people  of  a  great  country  that  is  recognized 
abroad  as  one  of  the  greatest  countries  of  the  world.  If  we 
all  —  every  one  of  us  —  could  see  other  countries,  as  I  have 
seen  them,  we  would  all  make  better  citizens,  or,  at  least, 
the  average  of  our  citizens  would  be  better." 

In  the  evening,  General  Grant  received  in  the  Assembly 
room,  and  Mrs.  Grant  in  the  Senate  Chamber.  Twenty 
thousand  people  were  in  and  about  the  building,  which, 
with  the  grounds,  was  brilliantly  illuminated  with  calcium 
lights,  while  fireworks  were  generally  displayed  during  the 
passage  of  the  party  to  and  from  the  Capitol.  Nine 
thousand  people  shook  hands  with  the  General. 


396  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

At  ten  o'clock  the  following  morning,  General  Grant 
and  invited  guests  visited  the  Grammar  school  to  meet  the 
veteran  soldiers  and  sailors  and  their  families.  He  was 
introduced,  and  informally  passed  around  the  room,  shaking 
hands  with  them.  The  children  filed  in  and  sang" 
"  America." 

After  lunch,  the  party  j^roceeded  to  Pioneer  Hall,  where 
General  Grant  was  presented  with  a  certificate  of  member- 
ship in  the  Sacramento  Society  of  Pioneers.  The  General 
returned  thanks  for  the  honor  conferred,  stating  that  he 
supposed  his  early  participation  in  the  struggles  which  made 
California  a  State  had  made  him  eligible  as  a  Pioneer.  He 
paid  a  warm  compliment  to  California  and  her  people. 

Members  of  the  society  and  their  families  w^ei"e  then, 
presented. 

The  next  place  visited  was  Agricultural  Park,  where  a- 
grand  military  review  and  sham  battle  took  place.  Gen- 
eral Grant  there,  as  elsewhere  during  the  day,  entered  with, 
zest  and  spirit  into  tlie  entertainment. 

General  and  !Mrs.  Grant  returned  to  San  Francisco  on- 
the  24th.  At  3  p.  M.,  the  General  visited  the  hall  of  the 
California  Pioneers,  and  was  made  a  member;  thence  to 
the  Mexican  War  Veteran's  headquarters,  and  dined  with 
Mayor  Bryant.  In  the  evening  he  attended  the  Pioneers' 
banquet  at  the  Lick  House. 

Notwithstanding  the  lengthy  stay  of  General  Grant  on; 
the  Pacific  coast,  the  excitement  continued  as  intense  as- 
when  he  arrived  five  weeks  before.  Every  thing  possible 
was  done  to  show  him  personal  respect;  and  even  more 
than  this  was  done  to  express  to  the  distinguished  guest  a 
national  appreciation  of  his  past  services  to  his  country. 
People  of  all  classes  and  political  pai'ties  vied  with  each 
other  in  their  attentions  showered  upon  him.  At  the  resi- 
dences of  Senator  Sharon,  Charles  Crocker,  Mayor  Bryant 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  397' 

and  at  the  Palace  Hotel,  elegant  entertainments  were 
given  him,  and  everywhere  even  more  than  imperial 
honors  were  paid  him.  He  was  made  an  honorary  mem- 
ber of  the  Calitbrnia  Pioneers,  of  the  St.  Andrews,  Cale- 
donian, Army  and  Navy  Clubs,  and,  in  fact,  of  every 
organization  of  note  on  the  coast.  Wherever  he  appeaied 
he  was  greeted  by  an  ovation.  Fifty  thousand  people 
attended  his  public  reception  at  the  City  Hall,  while  at 
Sacramento  and  Oakland  the  citizens  turned  out  en  masse 
on  the  occasion  of  his  visit  to  those  cities.  Elegant,  costly 
testimonials  of  regard  wei"e  presented  to  the  General  and 
Mrs.  Grant  from  admiring  friends. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  25th,  the  General  and  j^arty, 
with  Mayor  Bryant,  Senator  Sharon,  and  Charles  Crocker 
attended  an  exhibition  trot  at  Oakland,  where  a  large 
crowd  greeted  the  ex-President  with  cheers.  The  first 
trot  was  a  field  of  eight  trotters;  between  the  heats  .St, 
Julian  was  brought  out  to  beat  the  best  time  made  by 
Rarus.  At  the  word  he  passed  under  the  wire  at  a  square 
trot,  and  for  the  entire  mile  made  not  a  slip,  finishing  in  the 
unprecedented  time  of  3:135^.  The  result  was  received 
with  prolonged  cheering,  the  General  joining  with  the 
rest. 

In  the  evening,  before  his  departure  for  Nevada,  a  ban- 
quet, more  elegant,  more  numerously  attended  than  any 
ever  before  given  in  that  cit}^,  was  tendered  him  at  the 
Palace  Hotel.  Invitations  were  issued  to  the  representa- 
tive men  of  the  coast,  and  the  result  was  that  the  banqueting 
hall  was  a  perfect  congress  of  learned  and  honored  men. 
The  banquet  was  held  in  the  magnificent  dining  rooms  of 
the  hotel.  These  Avere  gorgeously  decorated  for  the  occa- 
sion. Rare  exotics  and  flowering  plants  were  there  in  full 
bloom,  the  odor  from  which  permeated  the  air.  Mayor 
Bryant  presided,  and  toasted   the  guest  of  the  evening  in 


398  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

an    appropriate    speech,  to  which   the  General    responded 
as  follows: 

Gentlemen  of  San  Francisco:  The  unbounded 
hospitality  and  cordiality  with  which  I  have  been  received 
since  I  fii'st  put  my  foot  on  the  soil  of  California  has  taken 
deep  root  in  my  heart.  It  was  more  than  I  could  have 
expected;  and,  while  it  entailed  some  little  fatigue  at  times, 
I  assure  vou  I  have  been  grateful  for  it.  I  have  previously 
been  in  California  and  on  the  Pacific  coast,  but  have  been 
away  a  quarter  of  a  century,  and  when  I  landed  here  the 
last  time,  I  found  that  none  of  the  pioneers  had  grown 
old,  but  if  I  should  remain  away  another  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tur}',  I  might  be  compelled  to  confess  that  some  of  you  had 
grown  old ;  and  I  want  to  see  you  again  in  your  prime  and 
3'outh. 

Gentlemen,  in  taking  my  departure,  I  want  to  thank 
you  all  for  the  farewell  reception  given  me  this  evening, 
and  to  express  the  hope  that  whether  or  not  I  am  to  have 
the  happiness  ever  to  visit  your  city  again,  I  shall,  at  least, 
meet  one  and  all  of  you  elsewhere,  and  if  it  should  not  be 
in  this  life,  that  it  may  be  in  a  better  country. 

At  half  past  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  the  General's  party 
bade  good-bye.  The  company  took  a  special  train  for 
Nevada,  being  accompanied  to  the  depot  by  many  citizens. 

General  Grant's  party  arrived  at  Truckee  station  at 
about  noon  the  following  day.  From  this  point  they  visited 
Lake  Tahoe  —  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  on  the 
Pacific  coast. 

On  arrival  at  the  lake,  the  party  was  met  by  a  number 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen  from  Carson.  General  Edwards 
made  a  brief  speech  of  welcome,  after  which  the  party  took 
passage  on  a  small  steamer,  and  in  an  hour  weie  landed 
at  Glenbi-ook,  where  an  open  train,  with  two  engines  richly 
decorated,  climbed  up  the  mountain  side,  giving  the  guests 
a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  forest   lake. 


TOUR    AUOUNO    THE     WORLD.  399 

At  Summit,  only  three  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  as 
the  bird  flies,  but  nine  by  rail,  carriages  were  in  waiting, 
and  Hank  Monk,  of  Horace  Greeley  notoriety,  with  four 
prancing  greys,  drove  the  General  to  the  capitol  of  Nevada. 
On  arrival  there,  the  city  seemed  in  a  blaze.  On  the  prin- 
cipal streets  were  bonfires  twenty  feet  apart,  which  gave 
pleasant  vi^armth  to  the  welcome. 

On  the  27th,  the  General  visited  Virginia  City.  As 
the  train  approached  the  city,  they  were  greeted  with  a 
chorus  of  whistles,  salutes,  firing,  anvils  and  shouts.  There 
was  a  terrific  Jam  at  the  depot.  Mayor  Young  delivered  an 
address  of  welcome,  extending  the  warm  hospitality  of  a  min- 
ing town,  the  hearts  of  whose  people  would  on  acquaintance 
prove,  like  the  mines,  to  be  warmer  as  they  are  explored.  Gen- 
eral Grant  replied  with  a  bow  and  word  of  acknowledgment. 
He  was  escorted  to  a  carriage, the  inilitary  fonning  a  hollow 
square  about  him ;  the  procession  moving  through  the  prin- 
cipal streets,  they  were  joined  by  a  large  delegation  from 
Carson.  At  the  Savage  oflice  he  reviewed  the  people,  of 
whoin  there  was  an  immense  concourse  in  line.  In 
response  to  persistent  calls,  the  ex-President  spoke  briefly, 
thanking  the  citizens  for  the  reception. 

A  sumptous  lunch  was  served  at  4  o'clock,  after  which 
the  Mexican,  Union,  and  Confederate  veterans  were 
received. 

In  the  evening  a  general  reception  was  given  and 
largely  attended,  followed  by  a  grand  banquet. 

On  the  28th  the  General  and  party,  as  the  guest  of  Mr. 
Mackey,visited  the  famous  Consolidated  Virginia  Mine.  Af- 
ter donning  miners'  costumes  they  entered  the  three-decked 
cage ;  the  ladies  of  the  party  taking  the  middle  deck.  The  cage 
was  lowered  very  slowly  to  the  1750  feet  level.  After  in- 
specting the  drifts,  the  ladies  of  the  party  returned  to  the 
surface,  while  the  rest  of  the  party  went  down  to  the  2150 


4fX3  GEXEKAI.    U.    S.    GRANT's 

feet  station,  and  thence  to  the  2340  feet  station.  After  thor- 
oughly exploring  the  different  drifts,  they  returned  to  the 
surface.  General  Grant  expressed  himself  as  highly  pleased 
with  his  visit. 

While  passing  through  the  Assay  Office  a  solid  brick  o 
gold  and  silver,  four  inches  long  and  two  and  a  half  wide 
was  presented  to  Mrs.  Grant,  with  the  follo\ving  engraved 
inscription : 

Souvenir  of  the  Consolidated  Virginia  Mine  to 

Mrs.  General  U.  S.  GRANT. 

Virginia  City,  Nev.,  Oct.  27,  1879. 

Colonel  Fair  presented  to  Mrs.  Grant  a  small  phial  with 
the  inscription: 

One-half  of  my  first  day's  work  in  California, 
1849. 

Its  value  in  dust  did  not  probably  exceed  $40,  but  as  a 
souvenir  it  was  beyond  price.  Before  changing  their  miners' 
dresses  a  splendid  photograph  was  taken  of  the  party.  Af- 
ter bathing  and  dressing  they  were  driven  to  the  stamp  and 
pan  mills,  where  they  finished  a  most  instructive  day's  Avork. 
In  the  evening  the  General  visited  the  hall  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  Pioneers,  where  he  was  made  an  honorary  member. 
A  badge  of  office  and  the  credentials  of  the  society  were 
given  him.  He  was  introduced  by  Dr.  Harris.  Colonel 
Robert  Taylor  delivered  the  address,  to  which  the  General 
responded  as 'follows: 

Mr.  President,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  Members 
OF  THE  Society  of  Pacific  Coast  Pioneers:  Your 
President  has  already  said  what  I  feel  in  appreciation  of  my 
reception  here.  Nothing  which  I  received  abroad  was  such 
a  source  of  pleasure  to  me.  I  do  riot  mean  by  that  to  dis- 
parage my  greeting  abroad.  It  was  honest  and  hearty,  and 
showed  the  high  esteem  felt  for  our  country  by  foreign  na- 
tions.    It  would   have   been  quite  different  a  quarter  of  a 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  4OI 

vjciuui  V  ago.  Now  we  are  regarded  as  the  most  powerful 
nation  on  the  earth.  We  have  much  which  European  na- 
tions have  not — that  is,  we  have  a  population  which  as  yet 
does  not  threaten  to  crowed  an}'  inhabited  district  or  exhaust 
the  productiveness  of  the  soil.  We  have  an  extensive  soil 
and  immense  undeveloped  resources  to  exhaust  before  our 
jDOpulation  will  become  so  dense  as  to  make  the  raising  of 
■sufficient  to  live  on  a  serious  problem.  In  this  respect  we 
have  great  promise  for  the  future.  The  fact  of  the  matter 
is,  we  are  more  thought  of  abroad  than  we  think  of  our- 
selves. Vet,  at  the  same  time,  we  think  considerably  of 
■ourselves,  and  we  are  a  little  conceited  over  our  advantages. 
Newspapers  and  politicians,  however,  think  there  are  a  good 
many  bad  people  in  the  world,  and  that  things  are  on  the 
verge  of  ruin,  but  I  guess  we  are  all  right.  Still,  we  can 
he  improved.  If  I  was  not  an  American,  I  would  not  dare 
to  talk  like  this  for  fear  of  being  mobbed.  I  thank  you  all 
for  this  kindly  expression  of  your  esteem. 

The  following  day  General  Grant,  accompanied  by  Gov- 
ernor Kingkead,  of  Nevada,  Colonel  James  G.  Fair,  U.  S. 
■Grant,  Jr.,  Philip  Deidenheimer,  and  a  dozen  invited  guests, 
visited  the  Sutro  Tunnel.  Upon  arriving  at  the  town  of 
Sutro  his  welcome  was  emphasized  by  the  ringing  of  bells 
and  blowing  of  whistles  at  the  company's  workshops,  and 
by  a  heavy  discharge  of  giant  powder  from  the  mountain 
tops  overlooking  the  town. 

The  party  were  received  at  the  Sutro  mansion  by  Mrs. 
Adolphe  Sutro,  Superintendent  H.  H.  Sheldon,  and  the  offi- 
cers of  the  com2Dan3\  After  an  examination  of  the  works 
of  the  company  at  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel,  and  the  recep- 
tion of  the  citizens  of  the  town  and  vicinity,  a  sumptuous- 
breakfast  was  served. 

The  visitors  went  to  the  tunnel  under  the  guidance  of 
Superintendent  Sheldon,  Secretary  Young,  and  Foreman 


.|03  GENEKAL    U.    S.    GKANt's 

Bluett.  The  party  were  placed  aboard  the  cars,  and  amid 
the  cheers  of  the  assembled  citizens,  disappeared  in  the  dark- 
ness. Quick  time  was  made  underground.  Shaft  No.  i^ 
one  mile  from  the  entrance,  was  reached  in  eight  minutes; 
shaft  No.  2,  two  miles  from  the  entrance,  in  seventeen  niin- 
utes;  and  the  station  of  the  north  lateral  tunnel,  in  thirty- 
five  minutes.  Here  the  party  left  the  cars  and  walked  to 
the  north  header,  the  better  to  examine  the  underground 
workings,  and  witness  the  performances  of  the  powerful 
drilling  appliances  required  in  driving  a  work  of  this  char- 
acter. The  covered  boxes,  which  convey  the  steaming  hot 
water  from  the  Comstock  mines,  were  also  an  object  of 
considerable  interest. 

Returning  to  the  cars  the  tiip  was  continued  to  the  face 
of  the  south  lateral  tunnel,  after  which  the  party  were 
escorted  to  the  1640  foot  station  at  the  "Savage  Incline," 
where  they  were  given  in  charge  of  the  officers  of  the  Sav- 
age Company,  and  were  hoisted  to  the  surface  at  Virginia 
City. 

Throughout  the  entire  trip  the  General  evinced  great  in- 
terest in  what  he  saw".  He  considered  the  tunnel  one  of  the 
greatest  works  of  the  age. 

Leaving  Virginia  City  on  the  29th  the  General  arrived 
at  Ogden,  Utah,  on  the  30th.  Governor  Emery  and  Gen- 
eral Nathan  Kimball  welcomed  him  in  addresses,  to  which 
he  responded  pleasantly.  The  special  train  left  after  half 
an  hour's  wait. 

At  Laramie  2000  persons  had  assembled,  the  train 
stopping  for  breakfast. 

At  Cheyenne,  Gov.  Hoyt  and  Gov.  Pitkin,  with  their 
staffs,  and  prominent  citizens  of  the  State,  received  the  Gen- 
eral, and  were  joined  by  several  hundred  members  of  the  G. 
A.  R.  from  Nebraska  and  other  States.  There  were  no 
speeches   at   Sidney,  where  a  large   cro\\d    had    collected. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  403 

The  General  was  introduced,  but  excused  himself  from 
making  a  speech.  One  old  fellow  in  the  crowd  called  out: 
"  Old  man,  you  can  jest  set  it  down  that  you've  got  jest  as 
many  friends  in  this  Western  country  as  anywhere  else," 
to  which  General  Grant  good-humoredly  rcjolied  that  he 
was  glad  to  hear  that.  The  crowd  gave  him  three  cheers. 
It  was  then  that  the  most  curious  incident  of  the  reception 
occurred.  One  of  the  bumpkins,  who  must  have  been 
slightly  muddled,  sang  out :  "  General,  I'm  from  Connecti- 
cut, and  when  you  go  back  there,  tell  'em  you   saw   out 

West  a from  the  old  Nutmeg  State."     Grant,  with 

great  dignity,  simply  replied,  "  You  should  never  swear. 
It  has  been  a  principle  of  mine  never  to  swear  at  any  time 
in  my  life."  The  reprimand  was  an  effective  one,  and  the 
fellow  slunk  awaj-  abashed. 

At  Central  City,  Clark,  Silver  Creek,  Jackson  and 
Columbus  he  found  a  hearty  Avelcome.  At  Schuyler,  State 
Senator  Clarkson,  brother  of  Bishop  Clarkson,  presented  an 
address  of  welcome.     The  General  replied: 

Senator  :  I  am  very  much  obliged  for  the  kind  words 
which  you  have  said  on  behalf  of  your  people  of  this  prairie 
town,  and  I  only  express  the  gratification  I  have  felt  at  all 
other  points  in  your  .State  through  which  we  have  passed,, 
when  I  say  that  apparently  you  have  all  been  out.  I  am 
glad  to  see  this  prairie  State  growing  as  it  appears  to  be,, 
the  ground  being  dotted  all  over  with  farms  and  prosperous 
villages,  and  I  hope  that  you  may  realize  your  expectations 
after  the  census  af  i8So,  in  having  at  least  three  Represent- 
atives in  the  Lower  House  of  Congress.  I  thank  you, 
gentlemen,  for  your  attendance  and  your  kindness. 

At  North  Bend,  Millard's,  a  like  cordial  reception  was 
given.  As  the  train  approached  Omaha.a  salute  of  artilleiy 
announced  the  General's  arrival.  At  the  Union  depot  an 
immense  crowd  had  assembled.      The   Grand  Army,   the 


404  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT*S 

Ninth  U.  S.  lufautiy,  hcadctl  by  their  regimental  band, 
formed  the  escort.  Gov.  Nance,  Mayor  Chase,  and  Gen- 
eral Crook  riding  with  the  General. 

The  order  of  the  procession  was  as  follows: 

FIRST    DIVISION. 

Platoon  of  Police. 

Battalion  Ninth  Infantry  and  Ninth  Infantry  Band. 

Section  of  Battery. 

Company  G  Second  Regiment,  N.  S.  M. 

j  SECOND   DIVISION. 

I  Union  Pacific  Band. 

Fire  Department. 

THIRD  DIVISION. 

Brandt's  Band. 
[  Leyran  Singing  Society. 

Union  Pacific  Sliopmen. 
Civic  Societies. 
,  Mannerchor. 

FOURTH  DIVISION. 

University  Cadets  with  their  Band. 

Grand  Army  of  the  Republic. 

Carriages  containing  Gen.  Grant,  party,  escort  and  prominent 

citizens. 

FIFTH  DIVISION. 

City  Band. 

Company  H,  Second  Regiment,  N.  S.  M. 

Trade  representatives. 

The  line  of  march  was  through  the  principal  streets. 
Crowds  from  Lincoln,  York,  Nebraska  City,  Fremont  and 
adjacent  towns,  made  up  the  enthusiastic  throng.  The 
'decorations  on  the  line  of  the  route  were  generous  in  num- 
bers and  attractive  in  display. 

At  Capitol  Hill  an  address  of  welcome  by  Gov.  Nance, 
was  brief  and  eloquent. 

General  :  On  behalf  of  the  State  of  Nebraska  I 
extend  to  you  a  cordial  greeting  to  Omaha,  that  vigorous 
young  metropolis  of  the  West.  Nebraska  is  pre-eminently 
a  patriotic  State.     A  vast  majority  of   our  pioneers  were 


TOUR  AnOUXD  THE  WORLD.  405 

wltli  you  during  your  marches,  and  helped  achieve  your 
victories  at  Donaldhon  and  Shiloh,  and  the  Wilderness,  and 
finall}^  at  the  surrender  of  Lee  at  Appomattox.  Doubtless 
every  regiment  in  every  corps  has  its  representative  on 
Nebraska  soil.  As  their  confidence  in  you  never  wavered 
in  the  dark  and  troubled  hours  of  the  Nation's  peril,  I  bid 
a  double  welcome  to  Nebraska  to-day. 

Mayor  Chase  in  behalf  of  the  city,  said:   . 

Gexeral  Graxt:  A  very  agreeable  duty  has  devolved 
■upon  me  upon  this  occasion,  that  of  giving  you  welcome  to 
our  citv.  Since  you  were  here  four  years  ago,  on  this  very 
spot  where  we  stand,  and  addressed  the  school  children,  we 
are  aware  that  you  have  traveled  in  foreign  lands,  that  vou 
have  traveled  at  home,  and  made  yourself  as  familiar  with 
other  countries  as  you  were  already  with  this,  and  we  know 
full  well  the  result  of  your  travels.  We  are  aware  that  the 
•comity  and  amity  of  foreign  nations  has  been  greatly 
increased,  and  that  their  relations  to  this  country  have  been 
favored  by  the  fact  that  you  have  socially  and  freely  had 
intercourse  with  those  peoples  abroad,  and  we  are  aware 
too,  that  our  people  throughout  the  United  States  have 
"watched  your  progress  wherever  you  have  gone,  from 
place  to  place,  and  from  port  to  port,  with  the  deepest 
interest,  and  you  know  full  well,  sir,  with  what  gratitude 
American  hearts  have  beat  from  the  fact  that  you  have  been 
everywhere  welcomed,  not  only  as  an  American  citizen, 
but  as  a  representative  of  this  Republic,  both  for  your  per- 
sonal merits  and  virtues. 

And  now.  General,  permit  me  to  say  that,  while  this 
little  city  of  30,000  peoj^le  is  not  capable  of  presenting  to 
you.such  external  decorations  as  you  have  witnessed  in  your 
travels  you  have  nowhere  been  where  warmer  hearts  beat 
for  your  welfai'e,  and  where  more  grateful  greetings  were 
extendcxl  to  you.     With  gratitude  to  the  kind  Providence 


4o6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

that  has  watched  over  you  and  yours  in  your  travels,  we 
remember  with  the  greatest  pleasure  that  you  have  returned 
to  us  to  greet  us  once  more.  And  now,  sir,  on  behalf  of 
this  young  city,  I  bid  you  again  and  again  welcome,  wel- 
come, welcome. 

Turning  to  the  audience  the  Mayor  presented  General 
Grant  to  their  view,  and  the  air  resounded  with  cheers 
for  several  minutes.     As  it  ceased  General  Grant  said: 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen  of  Nebraska  and  oe 
Omaha:  It  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  make  any 
number  of  you  hear  a  word  if  I  had  anything  very  special 
to  say.  It  is  cold  and  windy,  and  there  are  multitudes 
waiting,  and  I  will  only  say  a  few  words,  and  that  to 
express  the  gratification  I  feel  at  meeting  you  all  here 
to-day.  I  state  to  you  in  addition  how  glad  I  am  to  get 
back  again  once  more  upon  American  soil.  Wherever  I 
have  been  in  all  my  travels  in  the  last  two  and  a  half  years 
I  have  found  our  country  most  highly  spoken  of,  and  I 
have  been,  as  a  sort  of  representative  of  the  country,  most 
elegantly  entertained.  For  the  many  kindnesses  that  I 
have  received  at  the  hands  of  foreign  nations  and  Princes 
I  feel  gratified  myself  and  I  know  that  all  of  you  do.  The 
welcome  given  to  me  there  has  been  a  welcome  to  this  grand 
Republic,  of  which  you  are  all  equal  representatives  with 
myself.  As  I  have  had  occasion  to  say  several  times  before 
since  my  arrival  in  San  Francisco,  we  stand  well  abroad, 
infinitely  better  than  we  did  twenty  years  ago,  as  a  nation 
and  as  a  people;  and  as  a  result  of  that  to-day  the  credit  of 
the  United  States  in  the  European  market  is  higher  than 
that  of  any  other  country  in  the  world.  We  are  there 
more  highly  appreciated  than  we  appreciate  ourselves  as  a 
whole,  and  I  can  and  will  say  that  as  individuals  we  do  not 
think  well  enough  of  ourselves.  Gentlemen,  I  say  again 
that  I  am  highly  gratified  at  meeting  you  here  to-day,  and 
thank  you. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  407 

The  welcome  ^vas  most  cordial  and  enthusiastic.  A 
public  reception  at  the  Custom  House  followed.  In  the 
■evening  a  banquet  at  the  Withuell  House,  at  which  60  or 
inoi'e  prominent  citizens  participated,  this  wound  up  the 
clay  and  the  General  left  immediately  afterwards  for  Fort 
Omaha  as  the  guest  of  General  Crook. 

On  Sunday,  Nov.  2,  General  Grant,  General  Crook,  and 
escort,  attended  the  First  Methodist  Church,  where  serv- 
ices were  held.  The  church  was  filled  to  overflowing  by 
regular  worshipers  and  those  drawn  together  out  of  curi- 
osity to  see  the  distinguished  guest  and  visitor.  The  edifice 
was  profusely  decorated  with  banners,  flags,  evergreens, 
festoons  and  autumn  leaves,  and  a  small  banner  bearing  the 
legend  "Welcome"  in  bright  gilt  letters. 

General  Grant  and  escort  were  given  a  reserved  seat  well 
in  front. 

The  opening  prayer  was  made  by  Rev.  James  Haynes. 
In  the  closing  invocation  he  referred  to  the  more  than  ordi- 
nary character  of  the  occasion,  rendered  extraordinary,  in 
fact,  by  the  presence  of  a  distinguished  fellow-citizen,  who 
had  been  feted  and  honored  all  around  the  world;  who  was 
now  returning  in  safety,  and  whose  pleasure  it  was  to  wor- 
-ship  with  God's  people  to-day.  They  were  thankful  he 
was  able  to  be  with  them,  and  the  reverend  gentleman 
prayed  that  he  might  always  be  on  the  side  of  virtue  and 
religion;  that  his  influence  might  always  be  on  the  side  of 
right  and  justice,  and  that  God's  special  blessing  might  rest 
on  him  and  those  who  worshiped  with  him. 

The  sermon  was  delivered  by  Rev.  J.  B.  Maynard,  pas- 
tor of  the  church,  and  was  an  able  discourse  on  the  origin 
of  the  Christian  Church,  and  an  interposition  of  Divine 
Providence  in  the  affairs  of  men.  His  illustrations  on  the 
latter  head  were  singularly  striking.  "  It  wasn't  the  peo- 
ple," he  said,  "  who  selected  Mr.    Lincoln    to    guide    the 


4o§  oeneral  u.  s.  grant's 

Nation  ill  (he  hour  of  its  peril.  He  was  brought  forward 
and  placed  at  the  head  of  the  Government  by  One  who' 
knew  the  coming  evils,  and  who  selected  him  to  guide  the 
Nation  through  the  impending  storm.  The  same  is  true,"' 
continued  the  reverend  gentleman,  "in  regard  to  leading 
minds  in  and  out  of  Congress,  and  eminently  so  in  regard 
to  the  commanders  of  our  army  and  navy.  How  blind 
most  of  their  appointments,  and  how  uncertain  in  conse- 
quence were  our  battles  and  camj^aigns!  But  at  the  right 
time,  how  strongly  did  an  unseen  power  bring  forward  the 
men,  and  especially  the  one  gi-eat  commander  to  lead  our 
armies  through  carnage  and  strife  to  final  triumph  of  lib- 
erty! How  clearly  are  God's  acts  vindicated!  No  matter 
how  obscure  and  unpretending,  God  chose  nim,  and  we  at 
once  saw  in  him  the  man  for  the  emergency.  Thus  did 
Omnipotent  wisdom  adjust  the  conditions  of  our  final  suc- 
cess." 

The  allusion  was,  of  course,  clear  to  everybody,  inclu-^ 
ding  General  Grant  himself,  though  his  immobile  features 
would  never  have  revealed  it. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  service  the  General  and  escort 
passed  out  first,  and  the  pious  and  curious  ones  vied  with 
each  other  to  shake  the  hero's  hand. 

General  Grant's  eastern  journey  was  resumed  on  the  3d.. 
General  and  Mrs.  Grant,  Col.  and  Mrs.  Fred  Grant,  and 
daughter  left  Fort  Omaha  about  8  o'clock,  under  the 
escort  of  the  officers  of  the  garrison.  Companies  G  and  H,. 
Ninth  Infantry,  and  the  Ninth  Infantry  Band.  The  party 
and  escort  were  met  at  the  Withnel  House  by  the  Nebraska 
Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  boys  and  the  Citizens'  Recep- 
tion Committee.  General  Grant,  Mayor  Chase,  and  C.  W. 
Mead,  of  the  Union  Pacific,  rode  together  in  a  carriage  to 
the  depot,  where  a  large  crowd  had  collected  to  see  the 
party  off.     The  train  was  standing  inside  the  Union  depot,. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  4^09 

and  its  particularly  handsome  appearance  made  it  the  cyno- 
sure of  all  eyes.  D.  W.  Hitchcock,  General  Western  Pas- 
senger Agent  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy,  had 
laid  himself  out  as  he  never  did  before  to  do  something-  that 
would  be  memorable,  and  would  redound  to  the  credit  of 
the  road  he  represents. 

Very  little  time  was    lost  after  the    party  reached  the 
depot.        The    troops     were     drawn     up     on     the     right 
of    the    train,    forming     a    passage    through    which     the 
escort  led  General  Grant  and  private  joarty.     The  crowd 
cheered   itself    hoarse.      The   engine-bell    rang,    the    band 
played  "Marching  Through  Georgia,"  and  at  9:55,  amidst 
all   the  display  of  enthusiasm,  the  train   moved  out  of  the 
depot,  and  was  soon  on  its  way  over  the  big  bridge,  out  of.' 
Nebraska,  and  nearing  Iowa.     When  it  reached  the  middle- 
of  the  bridge.  General  Manderson,  who,  with  a  number  of 
the  Nebraska  Grand  Army  boys,  had  remained  on  board,, 
formally  transferred    the    party    to    the    care    of  the   Iowa 
Grand  Army  boys,  who  were  represented  by  Major  A.  A.. 
Perkins,  of  Burlington,  Post  Department  Commander  of 
Iowa.     General  Manderson  was  in  his  usuallj'  ha^^py  vein,. 
and  his  speech  was  as  follows: 

Comrade  Perkins:   At  their  eastern  terminus  of  the- 
Union  Pacific  Railroad   and  the  Eastern  boundary  of  the- 
State  of  Nebraska  and  in  the  middle  of  that  classic  stream,,, 
the   Big   IMuddy,  I  have   the  pleasant  dutj'  to  perform,,  ofi 
turning  over  to  you  the  duty  of  escorting  comrade  Grant 
through  the  State  of  Iowa.     I   hope  your  journey  wdll  be 
as  pleasant  as  ours  was  through  the  State  of  Nebraska,  and 
wish  you    and   your   comrades   good   luck    and  continued 
prosperity. 

Major  Perkins,  in  a  brief  reply,  accepted  the  trust. 

As  the  train  drew  up  at  Council  BlulTs,  a  large  crowd 
welcomed  it  with  cheers  upon  cheers.      They  were  here 


4IO  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

joined  by  Gov.  Gear  and  Col.  Griswold,  Department  Com- 
mander G.  A.  R.,  where  formal  speeches  where  made.  Col 
Griswold  welcomed  the  General  ia  the  following  address:* 
General  Grant:  Knowing  you  would  pass  through 
our  Department  on  your  way  home  from  your  trip  around 
the  world,  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  at  our  last 
semi-annual  meeting,  resolved  to  welcome  you  at  our 
borders  and  escort  you  through  the  lines.  We  are  here 
to  perform  that  pleasant  duty.  I  have  the  pleasure  of  in- 
troducing to  you  as  such  escort  the  officers  and  comrades  of 
the  Posts  of  the  Department  and  the  Chief  Executive'  of 
our  Commonwealth. 

General  Gear  welcomed  the  General  as  follows : 

General  Grant:  On  behalf  of  our  people,  I  bid 
you  welcome  to  the  Commonwealth  of  Iowa,  a  welcome 
not  alone  to  the  soldier,  who  in  the  Nation's  hour  of 
supreme  peril  carried  its  f^ag  to  victory,  nor  yet  to  the 
public  servant  who  in  a  critical  period  of  this  country's 
history,  occupied  the  highest  office,  but  also  the  illustrious 
citizen  who,  after  many  years  of  continuous  and  arduous 
labor  in  his  country's  service,  has  been  enjoying  a  well- 
earned  rest  in  visiting  the  people  of  the  Old  World,  in 
seeing  new  phases  of  human  life,  and  in  returning  home 
bringing  an  increase  of  honors  to  his  country  in  the 
attention  he  has  received  at  the  hands  of  rulers  and  the 
people  of  other  lands.  To  me,  sir,  is  also  allotted  the 
pleasant  duty  of  extending  to  you  a  hearty  welcome  in 
behalf  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  of  the 
Department  of  Iowa,  whose  membership  is  composed  of 
your  old  comrades  in  arms,  most  of  whom  have  followed 
you  in  many  a  perilous  campaign,  and  shared  with  you  the 
triumphs  of  many  well-fought  battle  fields.  From  all 
parts  of  this  Commonwealth  they  went  forth  to  swell  the 
ranks  of  the  historic  Army  of  the  Tennessee,  whose  fame  is 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  4I I 

SO  imperishably  bound  up  with  yours,  and  so  inseparably  a 
part  of  the  Nation's  brilhant  military  record.  The  men  of 
that  army,  and  many  others  of  many  remote  regions  here 
to-day,  and  all  over  our  State,  feel  them-^elves  to  have  been 
honored  in  your  person  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  your 
brave  comrades  rejoice  at  the  safe  return  of  their  renowned 
leader  to  his  native  land,  a  joy  in  which  all  of  our  people 
participate.  We  welcome,  then  with  a  glad  welcome,  you 
to  our  State,  in  the  affection  of  whose  people  you  have 
ever  held  a  distinguished  place.  A  hearty  welcome  to  the 
soldier,  statesman  and  citizen. 
General  Grant  replied: 

Gov.  Gear,  and  Gentlemen  of  the  Grand  Army 
OF  THE  Republic  :  I  am  very  glad  to  meet  you  here,  and 
I  accept  the  escort  which  you  have  tendered  me  with  great 
pleasure,  having  had  your  escort  on  former  occasions  when 
your  protection  was  highly  necessarv.  On  this  occasion  I 
hope  it  will  be  a  more  joyous  one  than  on  previous  occa- 
sions referred  to.  I  believe  that  we  might  go  through  this 
State  even  without  an  escort,  and  with  an  escort  with- 
out arms  we  are  perfectly  secure.  Governor,  it's  not  nec- 
essary for  me  to  say  more  on  this  occasion  than  to  thank 
you  and  the  citizens  of  Iowa,  not  only  for  their  escoit,  but 
for  their  good  will,  as  expressed  by  you. 

At  Red  Oak,  Villasco,  and  Creston  the  General  was 
received  with  enthusiastic  and  hearty  ovations  from  the 
whole  populace.  At  the  latter  place,  in  response  to  the 
address  of  the  Maj^or,  he  said: 

Citizens  of  Creston  :  I  am  very  glad  to  meet  the 
people  of  this  State  in  your  city.  I  looks  very  much  as 
though  a  great  many  people  had  settled  here  within  a  very 
few  years.  My  recollection  is  that  the  last  time  I  crossed 
this  part  of  the  state,  the  praries  had  very  little  upon  them 
except    grass    and     prairie    chickens.       Now    you     have 


412  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

got  2)cople  enough  to  stamp  out  the  jDrairie  chickens  and 
to  produce  from  the  soil  milUons  of  bushels  of  grain  to 
support  and  sustain  human  life,  and  make  America  pros- 
perous. I  am  very  glad  to  see  all  these  citizens  assembled,, 
and  glad  to  be  among  you." 

Brief  stops  were  made  at  Murray  and  Osceola.  At  Char- 
iton he  was  received  by  all  the  school  teachers  and  schowi 
children  in  the  place.    Col.  Duncan  welcomed  the  General 
At  its  close,  a  novel  portion  of  the  reception  awaited  hivu. 
A    precocious    little  girl  of  six  years,  Mary  Cushman  bjy. 
name,  who   was    held   in    her    teacher's   arms,   presented 
Grant  with  a    boquet,   and  in   an   innocent,  childish  verse,, 
made  him  a  little  speech,  which  closed  with  a  wish  that  he 
would  "always  love  and  remember  his  country."     Grant, 
kissed  the  little  thing,  who  appeared  to  realize  that  it  was- 
the  proudest  moment  of  her  yovuig  life. 

At  Albia,  Chillicothe,  Ottumwa  and  Mount   Pleasant,, 
vast  crowds  had  collected.     It  was  dark,  and  huge  bonfires 
were  sending  out  weird  glare;  the  decorations  and  crowds 
surging  to  and  fro  showed  off  well  in  the  light  of  the  bon- 
fires. 

At  Burlington  the  reception  was  one  of  the  noisiest,, 
liveliest   and  most  brilliant  on  the  route. 

As  the  train  entered  the  city  they  were  received  by  long 
and  piercing  blasts  from  all  the  locomotives  in  the  city,, 
church  and  fire  bells,  salutes,  and  the  display  of  fire-works,, 
numerous  bonfires  and  illuminations  of  nearly  all  the  house 
windows,  the  great  cheering  crowds — all  added  to  the  noise 
and  fury,  and  proclaimed  a  joyous  welcome.  The  General 
was  met  by  the  mayor,  who  addressed  his  guest  as  follows: 

General  Grant:  Burlington  bids  you  welcome.  The 
formal  words  of  greeting  fall  from  my  lips,  but  they  find  a 
sympathetic  response  in  every  heart  in  this  great  assem- 
blage.    If  all  these  spoke,  one  word  would  rise  and  fill  the. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  ^li^ 

autumn  air  with  its  glad  chorus,  until  the  rocks  and  cliffs  of 
old  Flint  Hills  would  send  back  the  cordial,  hearty  tones  in 
re-echoing  refrain  the  one  word,  ^'welcome."  We  have 
been  deeply  interested  in  the  magnificent  ovations  and 
receptions  that  have  been  tendered  you  in  the  many  lands 
that  3'^ou  have  visited.  They  have  been  given  you  as  a 
plain  American  citizen  without  rank,  position  or  credentials. 
Your  fame,  however,  as  a  warrior  and  a  statesman  preceded 
you,  and  each  nation  was  proud  to  render  you  the  homage 
due  to  one  who  had  occupied  and  discharged  the  highest 
trusts  in  the  Government  of  the  United  States  with  honesty 
and  fidelity.  The  tones  of  welcome  do  not  weaken  as  you 
journey  towards  your  old  home,  but  every  city,  town  and 
hamlet  on  your  route,  from  West  to  East,  vie  with  each 
other  in  making  the  welkin  ring  with  their  shouts  of  wel- 
come to  our  distinguished  fellow-citizen." 
General  Grant  replied: 

"Ladies  AND  Gentlemen:  The  welcome  I  have 
received  since  coming  into  Iowa  is  exceedinglv  "-ratifyin"-. 
I  have  seen  a  population  in  crossing  your  State,  on  a  single 
line  of  railroad  greater  than  that  of  the  State  a  quarter  of  a 
century  ago.  This  is  remarkable,  and  shows  a  growth  and 
enterprise  in  this  great  State  that  is  most  gratifying.  The 
impossibility  of  making  one  hear  all  my  remarks  will  force 
me  to  do  as  I  have  seen  them  do  in  Washington.  I  will 
ask  permission  to  have  my  speech  printed." 

The  speech  was  received  with  cheers  and  laughter  by  the 
crowd.  The  ex-President  and  escort  were  invited  to  car- 
riages, and  line  of  march  taken  up  to  the  ISIayor's  house. 
The  decollations  encountered  on  every  hand  excited  uni- 
versal admiration.  The  party  proceeded  with  its  escort 
through  the  principal  streets  to  Mayor  Adams'  residence, 
where,  as  soon  as  possible  thereafter,  its  members  retired  to 
rest. 


414  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

The  following  morning  General  Grant,  Governor  Gear 
and  !Mayor  Adams  drove  round  Burlington's  numerous 
hills.  At  noon  a  reception  was  given  to  Iowa  journalists 
at  the  Haivkeye  office;  here  the  General  was  presented  with 
a  copy  of  the  Haivkeye  printed  on  silk ;  this  was  followed  at 
1 :  30  p.  M.  by  an  elegant  repast  at  the  Mayor's  residence,  and 
later,  by  a  public  reception  at  the  Barrett  House,  Mrs.  Grant 
holding  a  reception  at  the  ISIayor's  house,  where  were 
assembled  the  beauty  and  elite  of  the  city  to  do  her  honor. 
The  reception  at  the  Barrett  House  over,  the  General 
and  escort  visited  the  High  School  building,  where  6,000 
school  children  of  all  ages,  their  teachei's  and  members  of 
the  school  board  had  collected.  C.  B.  Parsons,  president  of 
the  school  board,  extended  a  formal  welcome,  to  which 
General  Grant  replied: 

"Members  of  the  School  Board,  and  Scholars 
OF  THE  City  of  Burlington,  Iowa:  It  does  me  gfreat 
pleasure  to  meet  and  see  5,000  or  more  of  the  school  chil- 
dren of  the  city  of  Burlington.  I  think  that  if  ever  there 
is  another  war  in  this  countrv  it  will  be  one  of  ignorance 
versus  intelligence,  and  in  that  battle  the  State  of  Iowa  will 
achieve  a  grand  victory.  Furthermore,  I  thmk  that 
that  war  will  be  one  of  ignorance  and  superstition  combined 
against  education  and  intelligence,  and  I  am  satisfied  that 
the  children  here  will  enroll  in  the  army  of  intelligence  and 
wipe  out  the  common  enemy,  ignorance.  I  thank  you  for 
vour  kind  attention." 

A  vast  chorus  of  young,  fresh  voices  then  sang  "Amer- 
ica" The  General  was  apparently  much  taken  with  the 
luidisguised  heartiness  and  earnestness  of  the  reception  he 
met.  After  a  long  season  of  hand-shaking,  at  4  o'clock  th^ 
ex-President  returned  to  the  Mayor's  residence,  where  fina  I 
preparations  were  made  to  resume  the  journey.  A  large 
crowd  had  collected  at  the  depot,  and  cheered  him  as  he 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  415 

ascended  the  steps.     While  the  bands  played  and  cheers  of 
the  people  the  train  moved  off. 

At  Monmouth  a  large  crowd  had  assembled  at  the  depot, 
and  a  dozen  bonfires  illuminated  the  scene.  Capt.  Walker 
introduced  General  Grant,  who  said : 

"  Gentlemen:  I  am  very  glad  to  get  back  to  Illinois 
again,  and  very  glad  to  see  you  all,  but  I  have  a  great  deal 
of  sympathy  with  these  press-men  who  are  along  with  us, 
and  who  take  down  every  word  I  say.  I  am  a  man  of 
economy,  I  believe  in  economy,  and  thev  telegraph  every 
woi'd  I  say,  and  I  want  to  save  them  expenses," 

At  Galesburg  the  biggest  kind  of  a  reception  awaited  the 
party.  Mayor  Greenleaf  introduced  the  General  to  the 
crowd,  numbering  at  least  5,000  people.  General  Grant 
responded  as  follows: 

"Ladies  and  Gentlemen:  It  would  be  impossible  for 
me  to  make  myself  heard  by  all  of  you  or  a  large  fraction 
of  you,  even  if  I  was  in  the  habit  of  public  speaking.  I 
will  do  no  more,  therefore,  than  thank  you  for  turning 
out  at  this  time  of  night  to  welcome  me  on  my  way  home, 
and  I  will  say  to  you  that  in  the  two  and  a  half  years  that 
I  have  been  away  from  you  I  have  had  a  very  pleasant 
time.  I  have  seen  a  great  many  pleasant  people,  and  I 
have  been  very  well  received  at  every  place  I  have  been  as 
a  mark  of  respect  and  honor  to  the  great  country  which  you 
help  to  make  up.  But,  as  1  have  had  frequent  occasion  to  sa}' 
since  my  return  to  mj'  own  country,  I  appreciate  the  welcome 
which  I  received  from  the  sovereigns  of  my  own  country 
above  all  other  receptions  that  they  gave  us  elsewhere.  I 
have  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  people  of  Galesburg 
out  on  one  other  occasion.  I  passed  through  in  1S6S,  when 
I  thought  all  the  people  in  the  city  were  about  this  spot.  I 
am  very  glad  to  see  you  all  again  to-night." 

The  speech  was  received  with  cheers,  but  it  was  only 


/[l6  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

heard  by  those  standing  very  near  one  side  of  the  platform, 
and,  when  the  General  stepped  to  the   other   side   of  the 
platform,  the    crowd    on    that    side    cried    out,  "Speech!" 
*'  Speech !  "  "  General,  only  a  few  words." 
General  Grant  said : 

"  My  Friends:  I  have  only  been  in  Illinois  one  hour, 
and  during  that  time  I  have  already  made  two  speeches, 
and  feel  talked  out." 

A  voice  in  the  crowd — "  We  .didn't  hear  the  one  you 
made  here.  General." 

General  Grant — "  Well  some  one,"  (indicating  a  reporter 
back  of  him),  "will  be  pretty  sure  to  print  what  I  said. 
You  can  buy  a  copy  of  the  morning  paper  and  find   it  all." 

There  were  loud  cries  for  Mrs.  Grant,  who  appeared  on 
the  platform.  She  simply  bowed,  and  soon  retired;  the 
train  then  again  started,  and  a  final  three  cheers  were  given 
as  they  moved  on. 

A  short  stop  was  made  at  Yates  City,  where  the  Gen- 
eral was  enthusiastically  received  by  those  in  waiting. 

Owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  hour  the  train  was  run 
down  to  Lombardville,  some  twenty-five  miles  off  the  main 
line,  and  run  on  to  a  side  track  until  the  following  morning; 
the  distinguished  party  having  a  two-fold  object,  to  get  the 
election  returns  unmolested  by  a  large  crowd  of  people,  a 
skillful  operator  having  been  taken  aboard  at  Galesburg, 
and  a  good  night's  rest.  Early  the  follow^in^  morning  the 
train  was  run  back  upon  the  main  line  of  the  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington and  Quincy,  arriving  at  Mendota  at  9:  30  A.  M.  Mr. 
Potter,  Captain  Walker  and  General  Hitchcock,  of  the 
Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy,  tvn-ned  the  General  and 
his  party  over  to  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad.  These 
gentlemen,  who  had  been  tireless  in  energy,  lavish  in 
expenditure,  and  delicate  in  their  attentions  to  their  distin- 
guished guest,  received  the  warmest  thanks. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  417 

At  Mendota  vast  crowds  swarmed  about  the  depot, 
whose  cheers,  united  to  the  thunder  peals  of  ordinance, 
conspired  to  make  the  noisiest  and  heartiest  liind  of  wel- 
come. A  local  reception  committee  were  on  hand,  while 
Company  F,  Twelfth  Battalion  National  Guards,  under 
command  of  Capt.  Ingalls,  was  drawn  up  on  the  platform. 
A  line  was  formed,  and  General  Grant  passed  through  it, 
escorted  by  Gov.  Gear,  Collector  Crocker.  Mayor  Hastings, 
Mr.  Ruggles,  and  took  seats  in  the  first  carriage.  The 
procession  formed  with  two  bands  at  its  head,  followed  by 
one  platoon  of  militia  in  advance  and  one  in  the  rear  of 
the  first  carriage.  The  other  carriages,  containing  the 
balance  of  the  party  and  citizens  followed,  and  the  proces- 
sion wound  its  way  along  the  finel}'  decorated  streets  to 
the  First  Baptist  Church,  where  it  halted.  Arches  had 
been  erected  over  its  front  doors,  under  which  the  General 
passed,  being  made  of  flags  and  evergreens,  bearing  in  large 
letters  the  word  "  Welcome."  General  Grant  and  escort 
passed  up  the  church-aisle  to  the  pulpit,  which  had  been 
enlarged  and  handsomely  decorated  with  flowers,  flags  and 
evergreens.  An  arch  over  its  edge  bore  simply  the  word 
"Grant."  The  church  was  filled  to  overflowing  with 
citizens  generally,  and  a  large  delegation  of  school-children. 
Mayor  Hastings  and  General  Grant  rose  from  the  sofa 
where  they  had  sat  down,  and  Mendota's  Executive 
delivered  the  following  address  of  welcome : 

"General  Grant:  In  behalf  of  the  citizens  of 
Mendota  and  vicinity,  independent  of  party,  I  congratulate 
you  upon  your  safe  return  to  the  State  of  Illinois  and  the 
near  arrival  to  your  home.  We  have  read  with  the 
p-reatest  interest  of  the  honorable  manner  in  which  3'^ou 
have  been  received  by  the  governments  that  you  have 
visited,  and  are  happy  to  realize  that  your  distinguished 
semces  to  your  country  were  as  fully  appreciated  abroad 


4lS  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt''s 

as  they  are  at  home.  In  your  reception  this  morning  the 
citizens  of  this  city  and  \  icinity  have  turned  out  en  masse 
to  greet  you,  manifesting  the  same  enthusiasm,  in  the 
appreciation  of  your  distinguished  services  in  the  field  and 
as  President  of  this  great  republic,  as  had  greeted  you  from 
San  Francisco  to  this  point.  We  sincerely  hope  that  your 
life  may  be  long  protracted,  and  that  you  may  always 
realize  the  deep  affection  of  a  grateful  public  for  the  services 
you  have  rendered  your  country." 

General  Grant  responded  as  follows: 

"  Citizens  of  Mendota  :  The  receptions  which  I  have 
received  on  my  return  to  my  own  country,  upon  my  first 
arrival  at  San  Francisco  up  to  Mendota,  have  been  to  me 
gratifying.  The  receptions  referred  to  abroad  have  been  a 
mark  of  respect  that  foreign  nations  feel  for  the  United 
States  as  a  country,  and  for  its  citizens  as  energetic,  progres- 
sive and  independent  people.  The  honor  has  been  yours, 
and  not  mine.  In  getting  back  now,  to  my  own  home,  I 
feel  especially  gratified  to  meet  the  citizens  of  my  own 
state,  and  to  be  welcomed  by  them.  I  am  sure  I  shouldn't 
want  to  stay  long  in  Illinois  if  I  didn't  feel  that  I  could 
have  had  a  good  feeling  and  a  reception  of  the  people  of  this 
State.  In  conclusion,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  I  thank  you  for 
what  I  see  here,  before  me,  this  morning,  and  tor  the  words 
which  have  just  been  heard." 

Hand  shaking  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent  closed  the 
reception  at  the  church,  after  which  the  General  was 
escorted  back  to  the  depot.  Here  the  guests  were  joined  by 
a  large  party  of  friends  from  Chicago,  w'ho  had  come 
down  by  special  train  to  meet  him  and  attend  the  reception 
at  Galena,  also  by  Gov.  Cullom,  who  was  greeted  warmly 
by  the  General.  Gov.  Cullom  after  silencing  the  noisy 
crowd  addressed  General  Grant  in  the  following  speech  of 
welcome. 


TOUR  AROUND  THK  WORLD.  419 

"  General  Grant:  On  behalf  of  your  old  friends  who 
are  here  present,  and  in  the  name  of  the  people  of 
the  State  of  Illinois,  I  extend  to  you  and  to  your 
family  a  sincere  and  heartfelt  welcome  home.  This  great 
central  valley  is  proud  to  acknowledsje  you  as  the 
most  honored  and  best-beloved  of  all  her  living  sons. 
Eighteen  years  ago  you  left  us  in  the  service  of  our  common 
country,  at  the  head  of  the  Twenty-first  brave  regiment  of 
Illinois  Volunteers.  I  need  not  recite  to  those  present  who 
join  in  the  greeting,  the  well-known  story  of  your  progress. 
We  have  followed  you  every  step,  through  all  the 
dark  days,  which  ended  in  the  glorious  success  of  the 
army  of  the  Union,  and  which  gave  to  you  that  which 
you  so  richly  deserved — the  position  of  General  of  the 
Army.  Later,  you  were  twice  called  to  the  highest  civil 
office  of  the  nation.  Illinois  at  each  time  gave  to  you  her 
voice  in  no  uncertain  tones.  When  you  laid  aside  the  cares 
and  toils  of  office,  and  sought  in  foreign  travels  the  rest  and 
recreation  which  you  so  much  needed,  your  fellow-citizens 
from  your  own  State,  have  thrilled  with  pride  and  pleasure 
when  they  saw  the  recognition  of  your  services  to  civilization 
and  the  age,  of  your  abilities  as  a  chieftain  and  a  ruler,  and 
of  your  virtues  as  a  man  by  all  the  great  and  good  of  the 
entire  world.  Our  pleasure  and  pride  in  following  you 
from  shoi'e  to  shore,  when  nation  vied  with  nation  and 
princes  with  princes  to  do  you  honor,  have  not  been 
lessened  by  any  fear  that  all  this  adulation  would  in  any 
way  hurt  you.  We  had  an  abiding  confidence  that  the  time 
would  come  when  you  would  return  among  us,  that  same 
quiet,  modest  man  whom  we  had  last  known,  to  assume 
your  position  and  take  your  place  as  a  private  citizen.  And 
in  that  place  I  want  to  remind  you  that  one  of  your  chief 
duties  is  to  hold  yourself  in  readiness  when  your  country  calls 
for  your  exertions  either  in  the  Cabinet  of  the  nation  or  in 


420  GENERAL    V.    S.    (;RANt's 

the  field.  Again,  in  behalf  of  your  old  friends  present,  and 
in  the  name  of  the  whole  people  of  the  great  Republic,  I 
welcome  you  home. 

General  Grant's  reply  was  a  practical  verification  of 
Governor  Cullom's  remark,  that  adulation  could  not  hurt 
him.  Without  apparently  noticing  the  Governor's  allusion 
to  what  the  future  might  bring  forth,  he  responded: 

"  Governor  :  I  thank  the  citizens  of  the  State  of  Illinois, 
and  I  thank  you,  for  the  welcome  you  have  extended  to 
me.  I  shall  make  no  further  remarks  now.  Having  been 
received  in  one  of  the  churches  of  this  city  by  the  popula- 
tion of  JS'Iendota,  and  ha^-ing  already  had  an  0]:)portunity  of 
taking,  I  think,  nearly  everybody  by  the  hand,  I  will  there- 
fore reserve  any  thing  further  that  I  have  to  suy  for  another 
occasion." 

Gov.  Cullom  proposed  three  cheers  for  General  Grant, 
which  were  given  with  a  yell  and  hurrah  that  must,  indeed, 
have  assured  the  General  of  his  welcome,  if  anything  more 
were  necessary. 

The  train  moved  off  amid  the  cheers  and  hurrahs  of 
thousands  of  people.  The  first  stop  was  at  Amboy,  where 
a  great  crowd  had  assembled;  a  brief  stop  was  made  at 
Dixon,  where  the  General  spoke  briefly.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  train  at  Polo  it  was  boarded  by  a  reception  committee 
appointed  by  the  citizens  of  Galena.  At  Forreston,  Free- 
port  and  Warren,  large  and  enthusiastic  crowds  had  col- 
lected. The  approach  to  Galena  for  miles  swarmed  with 
people,  who  cheered  and  waved  their  handkerchiefs  as  the 
train  flew  by.  Galena,  the  General's  old  home,  was  reached 
at  3:20  p.  M.,  and  the  trip  overland  came  to  a  temporary 
stop. 

A  salvo  of  artillery  greeted  General  Grant  as  he  entered 
his  old  home,  and  10,000  citizens  gathered  at  the  depot 
and  on  the  streets  adjoining  to  give  a  royal  welcome  to 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    VCORI.D.  42  I 

America's  most  distinguished  living  citizen.  The  crowd 
pressed  back  and  forth,  and  there  was  some  trouble  about 
the  landing;  but  in  a  tew  minutes  this  was  adjusted,  and 
way  was  made  for  General  Grant  to  his  carnage.  The 
depot  of  the  Illinois  Central  is  located  in  East  Galena, 
while  the  city  proper  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  river. 
When  the  General  had  reached  his  carriage,  a  pi^ocession 
was  formed.  The  hour  was  late,  and  there  was  no  time  to 
lose  if  the  business  of  the  day  was  to  be  finished  before 
nightfall.     The  procession  was  formed  as  follows: 

Veterans  bearing  colors  of  the  old  Fortv-fifth  Illinois 
Volunteer    Infantry,  better    known   as  the 
Washburne    Lead     Mine 
Reghnent. 
'Gen.  W.  R.  Rowlej,  the  only  living  member  of  General 
Grant's  Individual  Staft",  and  Chief  Marshal 
of  the  Day. 
•Gen.  John  C.  Smith,  State  Treasurer,  commanding   the 
Militia,  and  Capt.  J.  W.  Luke,  Aid  and 
Assistant    Marshal. 
Two  Companies  of  the  Third   Illinois  Militia. 
An  Iowa  Militia  Compan\-  with  Band,  etc. 
The    Soldiers'   and   Sailors'   Veteran  Association  of  Jo 
Daviess  County. 
The  Veteran  Corps  of  Dubuque,  Iowa. 
The    Dyersville,    Iowa,    Veteran  Club. 
Crippled  Veterans  of  the  War,  in  carriages. 
Knights  of  Pythias  from  Dubuque  and  Galena. 
Liberty  and  Neptune  Fire   Companies. 
The  carriage,  drawn  by  four  grey  horses,  which  bore 
General  Grant,  Gov.   Cullom,  Senator 
McClelian,  and  Mayor 
Hunkins. 
Distinguished  visitors  and  well-known  citizens  in 
carriages. 
A  thousand  citizens,  many  being  old  veterans. 

The   procession   moved    rapidly  through  the    principal 
streets  to  the  corner  of  Main  and  Green  streets,  where   a 


422  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

grand  stand  had  been  erected.  Stretching  aci"oss  the  street 
from  the  De  Soto  House  to  the  stand  was  an  arch,  embowered 
in  green.  On  one  side  it  bore  the  mottoes,  "  From  Galena 
to  Appomattox  Court  House."  "  From  Galena  to  the  White 
House."  "From  Galena  Around  the  World;"  and  also 
the  words,  "  Welcome  to  Your  Home,  General."  On  the 
other  side  was  the  motto,  "  Loved  at  Home  and  Honored 
Abroad,"  and  the  names  of  "Grant,"  "  Sherman,"  "  Sher- 
idan," "  Rawlins."  The  whole  was  surmounted  by  a 
carved,  eagle,  formerly  the  property  of  the  Grey  Eagle  fire 
company.  It  was  about  4:15  when  the  head  of  the  proces- 
sion halted  in  front  of  the  grand  stand,  and  the  vast  crowd 
there  assembled  set  up  a  welcoming  cheer.  At  last  every 
thing  was  in  readiness  for  the  oratorical  features  of  the 
reception.  After  an  address  of  welcome  from  the  Mayor, 
State  vSenator  McClellan  addressed  General  Grant,  as 
follows : 

"General:  The  Mayor  and  your  fellow-citizens  oi 
Galena  have  assigned  to  me  the  pleasing  duty  of  tendering 
you,  in  their  name  and  on  their  behalf,  a  hearty  welcome 
home  again.  Without  distinction  of  party,  sect,  or  nation- 
ality, all  your  neighbors  and  townsmen  give  you  cordial  sal- 
utation, and  hail  your  return  to  your  old  home  with  joy  and 
profound  satisfiiction.  They  are  deeply  sensible  of  the 
honor  you  do  them  in  continuing  to  make  this  city  your  res- 
idence, and  they  will  be  only  too  happy  to  contribute  so  far 
as  they  may  be  able  to  render  your  stay  here  profitable  and 
agreeable.  You,  sir,  have  been  the  recipient  of  many  ova- 
tions, remarkable  alike  for  their  spontaneous  heartiness  and 
their  almost  imperial  magnificence.  Your  journey  from  the 
Golden  Gate  to  this  place  has  been  one  continual  triumphal 
progress,  marked  everywhere  by  demonstrations  of  honor, 
respect,  admiration,  and  homage,  never  heretofore  accorded 
to  a  private  citizen  in  this  country.     We  in   Galena  cannot 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  423 

vie  with  those  splendid  displays.  We  arc  too  poor,  and  too 
few  for  that.  In  our  little  city  we  cannot  give  you  the 
plaudits  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  people :  we  cannot  erect 
triumphal  arches  emblazoned  with  gold  and  silver;  we  are 
not  able  to  provide  royal  banquets  with  princely  service,  but 
we  are  able  and  glad  to  give  you  the  homage  of  honest,  lov- 
ing and  loyal  hearts. 

"  We  can  and  do  give  you  and  your  family  a  supremely,  sin- 
cere and  heartfelt  welcome.  Other  cities  may  make  grander 
and  more  imposing  demonstrations,  but  be  assured,  sir,  that 
no  people  in  all  this  broad  land  are  so  glad  to  see  you  as  are 
your  fellow-citizens  of  Galena.  None  greet  you  with  a 
warmer  affection,  none  can  be  more  proud  of  you,  your 
achievements  and  your  fame,  and  we  come  to-day  in  our 
own  humble  fashion,  with  none  of  that  pomp  and  pageantry 
to  which  you  are  accustomed  on  like  occasions,  to  give  ex- 
pression, as  best  we  may,  to  the  delight  and  satisfaction  we 
feel  in  seeing  you  once  more  among  us;  to  testify  the  love 
and  respect  we  have  for  you  as  a  man  and  a  fellow-citizen, 
and  the  honor  and  esteem  we  entertain  for  you  as  a  soldier 
and  a  statesman. 

"  In  the  dark  days  of  iS6i  you  left  us  to  fight  the  battles 
of  your  country.  Your  career  since  then  has  become  a  large 
part  of  that  country's  most  interesting  and  eventful  history. 
The  nation's  integrity  vindicated  and  the  Union  restored, 
the  highest  military  honors  a  grateful  people  could  bestow 
were  lavished  upon  you.  Twice  have  the  suffrages  of  a 
free  people  placed  you  in  the  highest  civil  position  in  their 
gift,  a  position  more  honorable  than  that  of  a  King  or  Em- 
peror, inasmuch  as  it  is  not  determined  by  the  accident  of 
birth,  but  given  as  the  reward  of  genius  and  ability,  patriot- 
ism, and  public  service.  As  a  private  citizen  you  have  just 
made  the  circuit  of  the  globe.  Nothing  could  equal  the 
courtesies  and  distinctions  you  received  from  the  powers  ot 


4^4  GEXEUAL    U.    S.    GRANt'S 

the  old  world,  sa\c  the  modesty,  good  sense,  and  demo- 
cratic simplicity  which  characterized  your  reception  ol 
them.  Imperial  splendors,  the  glitter  and  glare  of  royalty, 
never  for  a  moment  dazzled  your  republican  vision.  The 
guest  of  kings  and  prime  ministers  of  extended  empires,  you 
bore  yourself  with,  the  quiet  dignity  of  an  American  citizen. 
The  just  compliments  of  the  titled  and  great  to  your  illus- 
trious services  and  personal  worth  von  modestly  disclaimed, 
and  credited  them  all  to  your  country.  In  the  presence  of 
sovereigns  you  never  forgot  that  you  were  30urself  a  sover- 
eign— one  of  a  nation  of  forty  million  sovereigns — and  it  is 
most  gratifying,  sir,  to  your  own  countrymen  to  learn  from 
a  speech  made  b\-  yourself,  that  you  return  to  your  native 
land  a  more  ardent  admirer  of  republican  institutions  than 
ever  before,  and  that  your  love  for  your  country  has  been 
increased  and  your  iaith  in  the  progress,  future  greatness, 
and  grand  destiny  of  this  nation  has  been  strengthened  by 
your  observations  and  experiences  abroad.  In  all  your  for- 
eign travels  you  could  doubtless  say  of  your  country  with, 
the  poet: 

Where'er  I  roain,  whatever  reahns  I  see, 
My  heart,  iintraveled,  fondly  turns  to  thee. 

"  Again,  in  the  name  of  this  great  congregation  of  patri- 
otic, admiring,  enthusiastic  people,  I  bid  you  thrice  welcome 
to  this  little  town — a  town  of  small  importance,  indeed,  of 
itself,  but  made  famous  and  heroic  b}-  the  deeds  of  yourself, 
and  those  of  many  other  distinguished  men  who  have  gone 
forth  from  us  to  do  service  to  the  State.  Some  of  these, 
with  their  martial  robes  about  them,  sleep  on  battle- 
fields, some  are  still  with  the  army  guarding  the  frontier, 
and  some,  illustrious  in  their  several  spheres  as  jurists,  for- 
eign ambassadors,  and  successful  men  of  affairs,  we  have  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  before  us  on  this  occasion.  They  have 
come  back  to  this,  their  former  home,  to  unite  their  acclaim 
with  ours  in  your  honor  to-day. 


toijK  around  the  world.  *425 

"  III  conclusion,  sir,  permit  me  to  expre^^s  the  wish  that 
\  our  future  may  be  as  serene  and  happy  as  your  past  has 
been  eventful  and  glorious;  and  as  you  pass  into  the  'sere 
and  yellow  leaf  of  life's  autumn,  may  all  that  which  should' 
accompany  old  age,  as  honor,  love,  obedience,  troops  of 
friends  be  yours." 

In  response  to  this  cordial  greeting,  General  Grant  spoke 
as  follows: 

"Ladies  and  Gentlemen,  and  Citizens  of  Gale- 
na: It  is  with  some  embarrassment  that  I  reply.  Your  wel- 
come is  exceedingly  gratifying  to  me,  but  it  is  ditlicult  for  me 
to  reply  to  what  I  have  just  heard,  and  to  what  I  have  seen. 
Since  I  first  left  here,  eighteen  years  ago,  it  has  always  been 
the  greatest  pleasure  for  me  to  return  to  Galena,  and  now, 
after  an  absence  of  two  and  a  half  years  from  your  city, 
during  which  time  I  have  visited  almost  every  country  in 
the  world,  it  is  a  pleasure  to  be  greeted  in  this  manner  by 
you.  During  my  travels  I  received  princely  honors,  but 
they  were  all  due  to  this  country,  and  to  you  as  citizens  and 
as  sovereigns  of  so  great  a  country.  When  I  saw  during 
my  absence,  especially  in  the  far  East,  how  hard  the  inhab- 
itants had  to  toil  even  for  a  maintenance,  I  realized  more 
than  ever  the  greatness  of  our  country,  where  want  is 
scarcely  ever  known,  and  where  the  question  of  sustenance 
is  not  daily  considered.  I  will  only  add,  that  I  thank  you 
again  for  your  reception." 

Brief  but  feeling  remarks  were  made  by  Gov.  Cullom, 
of  Illinois;  Gov.  Gear,  of  Iowa;  Gov.  Smith,  of  Wiscon- 
sin; General  Logan,  Senator  Allison,  of  Iowa;  Hon.  E.  B. 
Washburne  and  Major  Hawkes. 

The  open  air  ceremonies  concluded  with  the  presentation 
of  Mrs.  Grant  to  the  people.  Then  three  times  three  cheers 
were  given  to  General  Grant,  and  the  out-door  welcome 
home  terminated. 

♦Sixteen  pages  are  here  added  to  correct  omission  in  paging  the  illustrations. 


442  GENERAL    U.    S.    (;KANt's 

General  Grant  repaired  to  the  DcSoto  House,  where  he 
received  his  friends.  The  parlors  of  the  hotel  were  over- 
flowing for  fully  an  hour,  and  the  hand-shaking  was  almost 
endless.  The  General  submitted  with  good  grace  to  it  all 
and  occasionally,  when  he  met  an  old  acquaintance,  the 
greeting  was  very  cordial.  Behind  him  stood  the  color 
bearers  of  the  Forty-fifth  Illinois  Volunteers,  with  their  bat- 
tei"ed  ensigns. 

In  the  evening  the  city  was  brilliantly  illuminated,  and 
there  was  a  fine  display  of  fire-works.  During  this  display 
the  triumphal  arch,  which  was  well  stored  with  rockets, 
Roman  candles,  etc.,  became  ignited,  and  an  explosion  fol- 
lowed that  shook  the  windows  of  the  buildings  in  the  vicin- 
ity. Postmaster  Huntington  was  injured  in  the  fire.  Gen- 
eral and  Mrs.  Grant  entertained  a  few  friends  at  their  resi- 
dence; there  were  none  but  guests  present  from  abroad,  as 
the  General  will  entertain  his  Galena  friends  later.  And  so 
ended  the  great  reception,  which  was  so  general  and  gener- 
ous on  the  part  of  Galena. 

After  a  few  days  rest.  General  Grant  left  Galena 
at  5  o'clock  Wednesday  morning,  November  12th,  for 
Chicago.  At  nearly  all  of  the  stations  on  the  route 
large  and  enthusiastic  crowds  collected,  the  train  generally 
stopping  a  few  moments  to  allow  the  General  to  satisfy 
their  curiosity,  and  the  General  was  often  compelled  to  go 
through  the  ordeal  of  the  pump,  shaking  hands  with  all 
who  requested  it.  At  one  o'clock  the  train  reached  Park 
Row,  and  was  received  by  General  B.  R.  Raum,  General 
Theodore  Jones,  Major  A.  Fitch,  Colonel  W.  S.  Oliver, 
General  E.  H.  Murray,  and  Major  H.  C.  McArthur,  who 
escorted  the  distinguished  guest  to  a  carriage  drawn  by  six 
horses.  Then  followed  Mayor  Harrison  and  Governor  Cul- 
lom,  who  took  a  seat  in  the  ex-President's  carriage,  and  the 
cavalcade  started.   A  body  guard,  consisting  of  officers  Schu- 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  443 

tuacher,  Fife,  Lucders,  Soergel,  Rierdon  and  Bruton,  sur- 
rounded the  carriage.  At  this  moment  a  drenching  rain  set  in, 
and  the  multitude  that  hut  a  minute  before  was  a  packed,  solid 
mass,  began  to  move,  at  first  slowly,  and  then  quicker  and 
quicker,  until  it  almost  reached  a  trot.  Park  Row  and  the 
lake  front  was  transformed  into  a  surging,  seething  mass  of 
human  beings  and  umbrellas,  moving  northward  on  Mich- 
igan avenue.  It  was  a  strange  sight.  In  spite  of  the  rain, 
patriotic  throats  would  cheer,  and  resounding  artillery  would 
roar;  in  spite  of  the  mud  the  crowd  dashed  on,  cheering 
lustily,  and  in  spite  of  all  the  elements  combined,  General 
Grant's  advent  into  Chicago  was  signalized  by  a  display  of 
the  most  unbounded  enthusiasm. 

The  procession  having  formed,  the  command  to  march 
was  given  about  1.30  o'clock,  by  Lieutenant  General  Phil. 
Sheridan,  Grand  Marshal,  and  the  column  moved  in  the 
following  order: 

FIRST  DIVISION. 

Detachment  of  mounted  police,  under  command  of  Major  George  Heinzman. 

Jefferson  Barmcks  Bind. 

General  Sheridan  and  staff. 

General  J.  T.  Torrence  and  staff. 

First  Reg^iment  of  Cavalry,  Major  Welter. 

Second  Reg'iment  Infantry,  Col<  nel  Quirk. 

Sixth  Battallion  Infantry,  Colonel  W.  II.  Thompson. 

Sixteenth  Battalion  Infantry,  Colonel  Scott. 

Battery  D,  Major  Tobey. 

Battalion  of  miscellaneous  compames,  Major  De  Younjf. 

First  Reg^iment  of  Infantry,  Colonel  Knox. 

First  Reg^iment  Cadet  Corps. 

Lackey  Zouaves. 

Janesville  Guards. 

SECOND   DIVISION. 

Loesch's  Military  Band. 
Captain  Neelv  and  Staff  of  aids. 

GENERAL  GRANT, 

accompanied  by  Mayor  Harrison  and  the  Hon.  Thomas  Hoyne,  in  a  carriage  drawn 

by  six  caparisoned  horses  and  escorted  by  the  Society  of 

the  Army  of  the  Tennessee. 

Platoon  of  police,  commanded  bv  Acting  Chief  O'Donnell  and  associate*. 

Carriages  containing  Governor  Shelby  M.  CuUom  and  General  W.  T.  Sherman. 

Carriages  containing  the  Citizens'  Reception  Committee  of  500. 


444  GENERAL    U.    S.    GKANT's 

Carriages  containing;  distinguished  maimed  and  crippled  soldiers. 

Ijubbig's  Milwaukee  Band. 

Society  oi  the  Army  of  the  Cumberland,  General  Whipple. 

Northwestern  Band. 

Society  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac,  General  White. 

Nevans'  Military  Band. 

Union  War  Veterans. 

Union  Democratic  War  Veterans. 

Veteran  organizations  in  general   Colonel  Scribner, 

Clarinda,  Iowa,  Corn..t  Hand. 

Mexican  War  V.ttr.ins. 

Fort  Wayne  Band. 

Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  Colonel  Swain. 

Grand  Army  P'ile  and  Drum  Corps  Band. 

THIRD   DIVISION. 

Columbus  Barricks  Band. 

General  Wallace   and   Staff. 

Old  Settlers,  as  invited  participants,  in  carriages. 

Judges  of  the  Feduial  and  State  Courts,  carnages. 

The  Chicago  Common  Council,  carriages. 

The  Hoard  of  Cook  County  Connnissioners. 

Division  composed  of  the  Ciunty  Clerk's  ami  Sh.r-  11'-  Deputies. 

The  City  Clerk's  and  City  and  County  Ireasurci'-  D  jnities. 

Hyde  Park  authorities  and  South  Park  Comuiitsioners. 

First  Regiment  Trumpecers. 

The  Fire  Patrol. 

Dlinois  Skirmishers'  Battalion. 

Brothers  of  Union. 

United   Fellows. 

Downer's  Grove  Band. 

The  Union  Labor  League. 

Mail  Carriers,  detachment  of  30. 

The  Danish  War  Veterans. 

First  Norwegian  Total  Abstinence  Society. 

Jacksonville  Drum  Corps. 

Chicago  Labor  Union. 

Stock    Yards    Troopers. 

Langan's  Band. 
Chicago  Turngemeinde. 

FOURTH    DIVISION. 

Elgin  Military  Band. 

General  Sherer  and  staff. 

Detachment  of  14  engines  and  4  trucks  of  the  Chicago  Fire  Department. 

Jackson,  Mich.,  Band. 

Division  of  350  decorated  wagons,  escorted  by  the  West,  South,  and  North  Parh 

Police,  mounted. 

The   commanders   of  the   various  divisions,  who  were 
seen  after   the   march  was   over,  stated  that  there    were  at 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 


445 


the  smallest  estimate  10,000  or  12,000  participants  in  the 
procession. 

There  were  over  3,000,  perhaps  3,500,  in  the  First 
Division,  over  2,500  in  the  Second,  about  the  same  in  the 
Third,  and  nearly  1,500  in  the  Fourth.  The  route  of 
march  was  about  4  miles  long,  and  the  rear  of  the  column 
had  not  yet  formed  on  Michigan  avenue  when  the  head 
had  arrived  at  the  Palmer  House.  The  procession  occupied 
about  three  hours  in  passing  a  given  point. 

From  a  balcony  erected  at  the  N.  E.  end  of  Palmer 
House  General  Grant  reviewed  the  first  and  second  Divis- 
ions, when  the  General  descended  and  proceeded  to  the 
platform  erected  in  the  rotunda  of  the  hotel,  and  on  behalf  of 
the  citizens  of  Chicago  w^as  formally  welcomed  to  the  city 
by  Mayor  Harrison  (a  Democrat),  who  spoke  as  follows: 

"General  Grant:  The  people  of  Chicago  recognize 
in  you  the  most  renowned  of  America's  citizens.  They  have 
watched  you  for  several  months  journeying  around  the  world. 
They  have  seen  you  the  recipient  of  honors  heretofore  con- 
ferred only  upon  those  of  exalted  rank ;  and  yet,  sir,  you 
had  no  other  passport  than  that  you  were  an  American 
citizen. 

"Princes,  rulers,  and  their  people  delighted  to  honor  you» 
and  in  honoring  you  they  lavished  honor  upon  your 
country.  This  people,  sir,  now  that  you  are  returning 
home,  are  desirous  of  tendering  you  a  befitting  reception. 
With  this  end  they  have  appointed  a  committee  of  five 
hundred  gentlemen  to  receive  you  here  in  the  heart  of  the 
city  and  to  welcome  you  to  the  homes  of  our  people  and  to 
the  hearts  of  the  people. 

"  Upon  me  as  chairman  of  that  committee,  devolves  the 
pleasing  duty  of  clothing  in  words  what  their  hearts  would 
warmly  express.  Sir,  for  many  long  years  you  have  been 
constantly  before  the  eyes  of  this  people." 


446  GENERAL    U.    S.    GllANx's 

"  Eighteen  years  and  two  months  ago  a  neight)onng  state 
had  adopted  the  rule  of  neutrality  in  the  dread  internecine 
war  then  commencing.  Our  statesmen  were  deeply  troubled 
and  knew  not  how  to  solve  the  problem.  You,  Sir,  like 
the  Macedonian  conqueror,  with  your  sword  cut  the  Gor- 
dian  knot,  and  the  first  born  daughter  of  the  Constitution 
no  longer  wavered  in  her  devotion  to  the  Union  and  to  the 
Union's  flag.  Two  months  after  we  saw  you  writing 
your  name  in  blood  at  fiercely  contested  Belmont. 
Before  the  frosts  of  winter  had  thawed,  you  threw  your 
regiments  around  Donelson.  Its  commander,  feeling  the 
death-grip  upon  him,  asked  for  terms  of  capitulation. 
That  laconic  reply,  "Unconditional  surrender;  I  propose 
immediately  to  move  upon  your  works,"  enriched  the  page 
of  military  literature,  and  15,000  of  Confederate  prisoners 
came  here  to  Chicago,  living  witnesses  of  your  great 
victory.  Ere  the  buds  of  spring  had  burst  into  the  sum- 
mer's flower,  Corinth,  and  Pittsburg  Landing  were  your 
trophies.  And  the  waters  of  the  Cumberland  and 
Tennessee  rivers  flowed  freely,  bearing  the  stars  and 
stripes  through  the  Ohio,  through  on  the  Mississippi 
to  Memphis  and  below;  but  the  mighty  river  refused 
to  carry  you  on  to  the  gulf.  Vicksburg,  deemed 
impregnable,  frowned  upon  its  turbulent  waters,  de- 
manding a  toll  of  death.  You  resolved  that  Vicksburg 
should  fall,  and  for  you  to  resolve,  has  seemed  in  the  past 
for  you  to  do.  After  months  of  strategic  movement,  long 
marches,  and  many  battles,  you  lay  your  army  in  front  of 
the  Gibraltar  of  the  South.  But  Vicksburg  was  vulnera- 
ble only  from  the  rear.  Desirous  of  saving  your  army,  you 
endeavored  to  make  a  new  channel  for  the  mighty  stream. 
But  the  father  of  waters,  despising  your  human  efforts, 
rolled  on  majestically — on  beneath  the  enemy's  guns.  Sir, 
unable  to  bridle  the  monster,  you    mounted    his  foaming 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  447 

back,  rode  through  the  storm  of  fire  and  hail  of  shot. 
Vicksburof  fell,  and  Chicajjo  shouted:  "  The  backbone  of  the 
Confederacy  is  broken."  Chattanooga,  Lookout  Mountian, 
and  Missionary  Ridge  were  then  flowers  in  the  chaplet 
encircling  your  brow.  We  then  saw  you  at  the  nation's 
Capital  commanding  your  country's  armies.  But  your  own 
special  duty  was  to  reach  Richmond,  which  had  in  the 
past  seemed  a  noli  me  tangere.  You  chose  the  line  of  the 
Wilderness,  and  to  the  immortal  Lincoln  you  declared  that 
you  would  '  fight  it  out  on  that  line  if  it  took  you  all 
summer,'  thus  giving  evidence  of  the  tenacity  of  your 
own  will,  rousing  the  wavering  and  lifting  up  the  down- 
hearted. You  did,  sir,  'fight  it  out  on  that  line,'  and 
Richmond  was  ours. 

"  We  next  saw  you,  sir,  at  Appomattox  Court  House, 
receiving  the  sword  of  the  brave,  but  mistaken  Lee.  You 
handed  it  back  to  him.  'Keep  it,'  said  you;  'a  braver 
man  never  wore  a  sword.'  You  bade  him  keep  his  horses, 
for  his  folks  would  need  them  at  the  plow.  You  bade  his 
armies  return  to  their  homes,  to  rebuild  their  broken  fire- 
sides, and  to  re-establish  their  shattered  fortunes.  Sir, 
Chicago  and  the  world  then  applauded  the  clement 
conqueror,  as  before  they  had  admired  the  dauntless  soldier. 
The  bloody  war  over,  you  said,  '  Let  us  have  peace,'  and 
a  grateful  nation  lifted  you  to  the  highest  position  in  its  gift; 
aye,  the  highest  in  the  world.  Eight  years  you  were 
President.  Then,  wearied  with  sixteen  years  of  service  to 
your  country,  you  sought  rest  in  travel,  turning  your  eyes 
to  the  East.  Moving  oflT  toward  the  cradle  of  the  sun,  you 
were  greeted  in  all  lands,  and  received  every  greeting  in 
the  name  of  your  country. 

"  Sir,  you  have  served  your  country  nobly;  your  country 
has  honored  you  grandly.  Like  the  immortal  Washington, 
you  rose  from  the  lowly  walks  of  life,  passed  through  all 


448  GENERAL    U.    S,    GRANt's 

military  grades  until  you  commanded  its  victorious  armies. 
Like  him,  you  tilled  the  office  of  President  two  long  terms. 
He,  when  his  two  terms  were  over,  was  offered  a  crown ; 
but,  preferring  the  immortality  of  fame  to  temporary  power, 
he  retired  to  private  life,  lives  in  the  hearts  of  his  people, 
and  all  time  will  call  him  his  country's  father.  You,  too, 
sir,  when  your  two  terms  were  over,  obeying  that  part  of 
your  country's  Constitution  in  its  unwritten  traditions,  hal- 
lowed by  the  example  of  the  immortal  Washington — you, 
too,  retired,  and  3'ou,  too,  sir,  live  and  will  live  forever  in 
your  countrymen's  hearts. 

"  Sir,  in  the  name  of  Chicago  and  its  joeople,  I  prophesy 
that  when  time  shall  have  grown  old ;  when  the  page  of 
history  shall  have  become  dim  by  the  side  of  the  great 
quartet  who  have  gone  before  you,  \'Our  name,  your  statue, 
will  be  placed,  and  by  the  side  of  Washington,  of  Jefferson, 
of  Jackson,  and  of  the  immortal  Lincoln,  will  live  the  name 
of  Grant. 

"  Sir,  again  allow  me  to  tender  to  you  a  hearty  welcome 
to  the  homes,  to  the  fire-sides,  and  to  the  hearts  of  all  the 
people  of  Chicago,  regardless  of  creed  or  of  party." 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  Mayor's  remarks.  General 
Grant  bowed  slightly,  and  responded  as  follows: 

"Mr.  Mayor,  Gentlemen  of  the  Committee  of 
Reception,  Gentlemen  of  Chicago  and  of  Illinois: 
I  feel  very  much  honored  by  the  welcome  which  I  am 
receiving  at  your  hands  to-day.  I  feel  highly  honored  bv 
the  speech  of  welcome  which  has  just  been  uttered  by  your 
worthy  Mayor.  It  is  something  that  is  so  personal  to  my- 
self that  it  would  hardly  be  in  good  taste  for  me  to  respond 
to  the  language  of  it,  and  it  leaves  nothing,  therefore,  for 
me  to  do  than  to  repeat  my  thanks  to  this  committee  and  to 
the  citizens  of  your  city  for  the  hearty  reception  which  they 
have  given  me. 


TOUR    AKOLXU    TilE    WORLD.  449 

"In  regard  to  one  allusion,  to  my  receptions  abroad,  I 
will  say  that  in  every  case  I  felt  it  was  a  tribute  to  my  own 
country.  I  will  add,  further,  that  our  country  stands  differ- 
ently  abroad  in  the  estimation  of  the  Europeans  and  East- 
ern nations  from  what  it  did  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago. 
An  American  citizen  is  regarded  in  a  different  liglit  from 
the  American  citizen  of  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago.  At 
that  time  it  was  believed  that  we  had  not  a  nation ;  that  it 
was  merely  a  confederation  of  st  :tes  tied  together  by  a  rope 
of  sand,  that  would  give  way  upon  the  slightest  friction. 
They  have  foun<l  out  their  giand  mistake.  They  know 
that  we  have  now  a  go\ernment,  that  we  are  a  Nation,  and 
that  we  are  a  strong,  intelligent,  and  brave  people,  capable 
of  judging  and  knowing  our  rights,  and  determined  on  all 
occasions  to  maintain  them  against  either  domestic  or 
foreign  foes.  And  that  is  the  explanation  of  the  receptions 
which  you  have  received  through  me  while  I  was  abroad. 
Gentlemen,  I  thank  you." 

As  General  Grant  concluded  his  remarks,  the  Mayor 
invited  the  crowd  to  come  forward  in  twos  and  shake  hands 
with  the  General,  stating  that  the  Genei'al  had  seen  a  great 
■deal  and  was  very  hungry.  Many  of  the  old  comrades 
■came  forward  and  reminded  him  pleasantly  in  passing  ot 
the  last  time  they  met. 

The  pressure  of  the  crowd  becam.e  so  great  that  Mayor 
Harrison  was  compelled  to  ask  them  to  desist,  and  at  4 
o'clock  the  Mayor  and  Colonel  George  R.  Davis  took  him 
in  charge,  and  conducted  him  to  his  private  parlor,  where 
a  small  company  was  assembled,  consisting  of  Mrs.  General 
Grant.  Mrs.  Sheridan,  the  Hon.  Thomas  Hoyne,  and 
others.  After  a  few  complimentary  remarks,  he  was  con- 
ducted to  his  carriage  by  General  Chetlain  and  the  Hon. 
Thomas  Hoyne,  and  departed  to  take  dinner  at  his  son's 
house. 


45©  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

Speaking  of  the  decorations,  the  Inter- Ocean  of  the  13th 
says:  "  The  appearance  of  the  city  was  a  surprise  to  the 
people  of  Chicago  themselves.  The  gay  attire  which  they 
had  been  planning  for  weeks  being  richer  and  more  com- 
plete than  had  been  2:>ictured  in  anticipation.  There  were  a 
number  of  establishments  that  might  be  named  which  spent 
over  a  thousand  dollars  in  each  adornment;  but  when  thou- 
sands worked  with  willing  hands  and  loving  hearts,  if  with 
a  smaller  expenditure  of  money,  to  swell  the  general  wel- 
come of  the  city  to  her  guest,  it  would  be  perhaps  unfair,, 
as  it  is  unnecessary,  to  mention  the  few  who,  in  this  respect, 
were  able  to  surpass  the  rest." 

"  The  grand  arch,  upon  which  the  General  first  looked  as 
he  stepped  from  the  cars,  spanned  his  path,  with  the  words, 
'  Chicago's  Welcome,'  and  as  he  rode  over  the  four  miles 
of  the  route  Chicago''s  welcomes  were  spoken  "all  along 
the  line"  in  bowers  of  living  green;  in  arches  bright  with 
the  colors  of  gay  bunting;  in  lovely  festoons  of  flowers 
which  drooped  to  the  very  ground  from  the  highest  tops  of 
the  brown-stone  fronts  of  Michigan  avenue;  in  rich  cano- 
pies vv^hich  carried  their  tributes  out  to  the  very  steps  of  his 
carriage;  in  the  magnificent  trappings  and  beautiful  hang- 
ings on  marble  fronts;  in  floating  pendants  and  waving  ban- 
ners; in  the  millions  of  flags  which  covered  the  city  almost 
as  a  great  mantle  of  patriotism  and  loyalty,  and  finally  in 
portraits  on  every  side  of  Grant  himself,  and  in  matters 
which  repeated  again  his  own  terse  and  patriotic  utterances 
that  have  become  the  dearly-prized  household  words  of  the 
people. 

"  From  out  such  wondrous  profusion  in  decorations  and 
such  bewildering  beauties  of  embellishment  along  four 
miles  of  thoroughfare,  it  is  a  manifest  impossibility  to 
describe  the  appearance  of  each  building,  or  even  any  con- 
siderable number  of  the  most  prominent." 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  45I 

The  St.  Louis  Globe  Democrat^  in  speaking  of  the  C 
cago  reception  on  the  12th  said,  "  Chicago  was  gloriouisly 
decorated.  *  *  *  The  scenes  along  the  route  of  the 
procession  were  almost  beyond  description,  *  *  *  the 
four  hundred  thousand  people  who  lined  the  streets  were 
wildly,  madly  enthusiastic."  St.  Louis  Reptiblican  (Dem.): 
"  The  whole  central  part  of  the  city  was  a  gorgeous  scene 
of  patriotism,  embodied  in  bunting  and  flowing  out  in 
colors  such  as  would  make  the  rainbow  hide  its  head."  It 
seems  as  if  the  whole  Northwest  had  poured  out  its  pop- 
ulation to  the  citizen  thus  auspiciously  returning  to  his 
home." 

The  Cincinnati  Commercial  said:  "A  noticeable  fea- 
ture of  the  decorations  was  that  not  only  were  buildings  own- 
ed  by  Republicans  replete  with  ornaments,  but  those  of  prom- 
inent Democrats  were  among  the  most  brilliant  in  their  dis- 
play of  colors  and  evergreens.  Messrs.  Field  &  Leiter,  both 
outspoken  Democrats,  made  a  lavish  display.  The  Demo- 
cratic Palmer  House,  besides  having  made  itself  his  head- 
quarters during  his  stay,  presented  adornments  in  profusion, 
which  were  of  the  most  patriotic  character.  McVicker,  who 
is  a  life-long  Democrat,  enveloped  his  theatre  from  top  to 
bottom  with  red,  white,  and  blue,  with  flags  at  every  avail- 
able point,  and  allegorical  paintings  fifty-two  feet  long  and 
fifteen  feet  high,  representing  General  Grant  as  a  tanner  at 
Galena,  as  the  victorious  soldier  at  Appomattox,  and  as  the 
inaugurated  President  of  the  nation. 

The  Cincinnatti  Gazette  said:  "The  military  display 
was  fine.  *  *  *  The  reception  in  the  evening  was 
an  indescribable  ovation." 

The  Cincinnati  Enquirer  (Dem.)  said:  "This  was 
Grant's  day,  The  Soldiers  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  of  the 
State  of  Indiana,  of  Michigan,  and  of  Wisconsin  gave  him 
such  a  demonstration  as  was  never  before  seen  in  this  city, 


452  GENEKAL    U.    S.    GKANX's 

or  indeed  any  Western  city.  There  was  no  concealing  or 
denying  it  because  the  enthusiasm  was  so  unusual  that  every- 
body had  to  acknowledge  the  fact." 

The  Louisville  Courier- jfournal  {T)Qm.)  said:  "Gen- 
eral Grant  and  party  appeared  at  the  head  of  the 
second  division,  and  the  enthusiam  was  indescribable.  He 
appeared  tired,  wearied,  and  exhausted,  but  as  cheer  on 
cheer  arose  he  lifted  his  hat  wearily  and  smiled.  A  descrip- 
tion of  the  entire  progress  of  the  procession  might  be 
summed  in  the  words,  no  living  or  dead  man  ever  received 
such  an  outburst  of  enthusiam.  Ten  minutes  after  the  pro- 
cession started,  the  sun  burst  through  the  clouds,  adding 
fresh  zeal  to  the  excitement.  No  such  a  rain  storm  has 
occurred  this  year;  no  such  a  depth  of  mud  was  ever  known; 
so  grand  a  street  pageant  was  never  seen,  and  no  such  wild 
and  unbridled  excitement  was  ever  experienced,  is  the 
verdict." 

The  Indianopolis  yoiirnal  said :  "  Chicago  to-day 
gave  Grant  a  heroic  reception,  a  cosmopolitan  wel- 
come, and  to  her  hundreds  upon  thousands  of  popu- 
lation there  were  added  a  hundred  thousand  visitors. 
Never  has  this  city  been  so  densely  packed,  and  never  was 
an  American  citizen  accorded  such  a  hearty  greeting  as  has 
been  given  this  man.  Chicago  is  celebrated  for  great  deeds, 
but  this  event  will  pass  to  record  as  the  grandest  and  the 
greatest  and  there  is  no  event  in  the  prophesy  of  man  that 
can  call  out  a  more  brilliant  one." 

The  Detroit  Post  said:  "  Chicago  has  never  seen  any- 
thing like  this  day  in  all  its  history,  or  rather,  it  has  seen 
several  occasions  bearing  some  analogy  to  it,  but  none  to 
equal  it  in  magnitude.  Never  before  has  the  city  pre- 
sented such  a  festive  appearance.  INIillions  of  flags  and 
banners  wei'e  floating  to  the  breeze,  and  every  building  on 
the  South  Side  and  thousands  of  private  residences  every- 
where were  covered  with  the  decorations." 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  458 

The  formal  reception  by  the  society  of  the  Army  of  the 
Tennessee,  at  Haverly's  theatre,  in  the  evening,  fitlv  closed 
the  extraordinary  record  of  the  day.  The  stage  had  been 
transformed  into  a  picturesque  war  scene,  the  hills  in  the 
vicinity  of  Vicksburg  rising  in  the  distance,  and  nearer,  the 
fortifications  of  the  Union  troops.  Field  pieces  were  in 
place  pointing  outward  through  the  embrasures,  and  on 
them  and  about  them  were  grouped  artillery  men  in  regula- 
tion dress.  The  grouping  had  a  tableaux  effect  that 
brought  into  clear  relief  the  gathering  of  distinsfuished 
gentlemen  in  front.  The  theatre  was  beautifully  and  elabo- 
rately decorated  in  flowers  and  evergreens. 

In  the  parquette,  dress  circle,  balcony  and  gallery  was 
a  select  audience,  taking  in  the  members  of  the  different 
army  societies  and  many  of  Chicago's  leading  citizens.  As 
many  of  the  veterans  wore  uniforms,  and  as  manv  of  the 
ladies,  even  in  the  gallery  were  in  full  dress,  the  assemblage 
was  a  brilliant  one,  even  for  that  city. 

Prayer  was  offered  by  Rev.  Dr.  H.  W.  Thomas. 

The  first  address  of  the  evening  was  by  the  Hon.  E.  B. 
Washburne,  who  spoke  a  general  welcome  to  the  society 
and  to  Genei-al  Grant.  ISIr.  Washburne  was  at  his  best, 
and  his  courtly  manner  and  well  chosen  words  gave  to  his 
speech  of  welcome  a  special  charm.  A  warm  tribute  to 
McPherson,  and  a  graceful  mention  of  Grant,  called  out 
responsive  bursts  of  applause. 

He  was  followed  by  Governor  Cullom,  who  spoke  the 
welcome  of  the  state.  His  unusually  clear  cut  tones,  his 
dignified  deliberation,  and  his  special  emphasis  were  hints 
to  those  who  knew  him  that  his  speech  was  not  to  be  an 
ordinary  one,  and  it  was  not.  His  first  reference  to  national 
sentiment  and  nationality  was  the  signal  for  a  hearty  round 
of  enthusiasm,  and  the  plain  talk  that  followed  was 
applauded  to  the  echo.     He  made  a  dramatic  mention  of 


454  GENERAL    ^.    S.    GRANt's 

Grant  that  brought  that  gentleman  to  his  feet  in  response 
to  continued  calls  from  the  audience.  A  reference  to  the 
incompai'able  Sherman  and  the  chivalric  Logan  compelled 
each  of  those  gentlemen  to  follow  the  example  of  Grant, 
and  rise  in  answer  to  the  calls  from  the  people  in  front. 

Mayor  Harri^n  spoke  the  welcome  of  the  city,  speaking 
in  his  usual  style,  and  saying  many  good  things,  whenever 
he  dropped  an  incidental  remark  about  the  distinguished 
ex-P resident,  the  audience  stopped  Mr.  Harrison  with 
cheers,  and  kept  up  the  noise  until  General  Grant  arose  and 
acknowledged  the  compliment  with  a  bow. 

General  Sherman  responded  briefly  and  pointedly,  his 
first  remark,  to  the  effect  that  Chicago  was  ready  and  will- 
ing, for  a  consideration,  to  feed  the  world,  calling  out  a 
double  round  of  applause. 

The  annual  address,  by  General  Gresham,  was  read  in 
a  smooth,  lawyer-like  manner,  and,  coming  after  the 
impromptu  speeches,  seemed  at  first  as  not  likely  to  claim 
the  close  attention  of  those  outside  of  army  circles.  But 
soon  the  people  awoke  to  the  realization  that  a  scholarly 
gentleman  was  discussing  vital  questions  of  general  interest, 
and  the  speaker  not  only  had  the  closest  attention  of  all, 
but  the  heartiest  commendation. 

After  the  presentation  of  a  banner  to  the  Society  by 
General  Logan  in  a  graceful  speech,  and  a  response,  half 
playful,  half  earnest,  by  General  Sherman,  it  was  an- 
nounced that  there  would  be  a  song.  This  was  met  by  a 
determined  call  for  General  Grant,  and  he  arose  as  if  to 
excuse  himself,  saying  he  would  fill  the  regular  order  on 
the  programme.  The  audience,  quick  to  see  the  drift  of 
this  remark,  informed  him  that  he  was  not  on  the  pro- 
gramme, and  insisted  that  he  should  go  on.  As  he  took 
from  his  pocket  a  few  pages  of  manuscript,  the  crowd 
cheered,  and  the  officers  on  the  stage  turned  toward  him 
with  new  interest  on  their  faces. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  455 

The  General  stepped  forward  and  said : 

Comrades  of  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  the 
Tennessee:  After  an  absence  of  several  years  from  the 
gatherings  of  the  society  of  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee, 
it  affords  me  heart-felt  pleasure  to  again  be  with  you,  my 
earliest  comrades  in  arms  in  the  great  conflict  for  nationality 
and  union  of  all  the  states  under  our  free  and  always-to-be 
maintained  government.  In  my  long  absence  from  the 
country  I  have  had  the  most  favorable  opportunity  for  seeing 
and  comparing,  in  my  own  mind,  our  institutions  with  all 
European  counti'ies,  and  most  of  those  of  Asia — comparing 
our  resources,  developed  and  dormant,  the  capacity  and 
energy  of  our  people  for  upholding  and  developing  its 
resources,  with  most  of  the  civilized  people  of  the  world. 
Everywhere,  from  England  to  Japan,  from  Russia  to  Spain 
and  Portugal,  we  are  understood,  our  resources  highly 
appreciated,  and  the  skill,  energy,  and  intelligence  of  the 
citizens  recognized.  My  receptions  have  been  everywhere 
kind,  and  an  acknowledgement  that  the  United  States  is  a 
Nation,  a  strong,  independent,  and  free  Nation,  composed 
of  strong,  brave,  and  intelligent  people,  capable  of  judging 
of  their  rights,  and  ready  to  maintain  them  at  all  hazards. 
This  is  a  non-partisan  association,  but  composed  of  men 
who  are  united  in  the  determination  that  no  foe,  domestic  or 
foreign,  shall  interpose  between  us  and  the  maintenance 
of  our  grand,  free,  and  enlightened  institutions,  and  unity 
of  all  the  States.  The  area  of  our  country,  its  fertility, 
the  energy  and  resources  of  our  people,  with  a  sparsity  of 
population  compared  to  area,  postpones  the  day  for  genera- 
tions to  come  when  our  descendants  will  have  to  consider 
the  question  of  how  the  soil  is  to  support  them,  how  the 
most  can  be  produced  to  sustain  human  life,  without  refer- 
ence to  the  taste  or  desires  of  the  people,  and  when  but  few 
can  exercise  the  privilege  of  the  plain  luxury  of  selecting 


1.56  GENKRAL    U.    S.    GKANt's 

the  articles  of  food  they  will  eat,  the  quantity  and  quality 
of  clothing  they  wear,  but  will  remain  the  abundant  home 
of  ail  who  possess  the  energy  and  strength,  and  make  good 
use  of  them,  if  we  remain  true  to  ourselves.  Such  a  country 
IS  one  to  be  proud  of.  I  am  proud  of  it — proud  that  I  am 
an  American  citizen.  Every  citizen,  North,  South,  East, 
and  West,  enjoys  a  common  heritage,  and  should  feel  an 
equal  pride  in  it. 

"I  am  glad  these  society  meetings  keep  up  their 
interest  so  long  after  the  events  which,  in  a  sense,  they  com- 
memorate, have  passed  away.  They  do  not  serve  to  keep 
up  sectional  feeling  or  bitterness  toward  our  late  foe;  but 
they  do  keep  up  the  feeling  that  we  are  a  nation,  and  that 
it  must  be  preserved,  one  and  indivisible.  We  feel  and 
maintain  that  these  who  fought,  and  fought  bravely,  on 
the  other  side  from  us,  have  equal  claims  with  ourselves  in 
all  the  blessings  of  our  great  and  common  country.  We 
claim  for  them  the  right  to  travel  all  over  this  broad  land 
and  select  where  they  please,  the  rightt  o  settle,  become 
citizens,  and  enjoy  their  political  and  religious  convictions, 
free  from  molestation  or  ostracism  either  on  account  of  them 
or  their  connection  with  the  past.  We  ask  nothing  more 
for  oui selves,  and  would  rejoice  to  see  them  become  pow- 
erful rivals  in  the  development  of  our  great  resources,  sn 
the  acquisition  of  all  that  shall  be  desu-able  in  this  life,  and 
in  patriotism  and  love  of  country." 

The  little  speech  was  extremely  well  received,  and  as 
the  General  folded  his  paper  and  put  it  in  his  vest  pocket, 
there  was  a  round  of  applause,  interrupted  by  a  vigorous 
call  for  General  Sheridan,  which  soon  brought  him  to  the 
front  to  make  a  happy  little  two-minute  speech.  Then,  at 
the  order  of  the  now  determined  audience,  came  Pope, 
Oglesbv,  Schofield,  and  Mark  Twain,  each  to  speak  briefly. 
Frank  Lumbard's  quartet  did  fine  service. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  457 

The  tattoo  was  then  given,  and  the  president  announced 
the  society  adjourned  till  the  following  morning. 

The  Jnter-Ocean  in  summing  up  the  welcome  given 
General  Grant,  said: 

Chicago  has  spoken  her  welcome.  With  what  warmth 
and  demonstrativeness  is  best  shown  in  our  reports  giving 
particulars  of  the  great  display.  If  the  warmth  and  earnest- 
ness of  the  great  display  are  to  be  judged  by  the  magnitude 
of  the  parade,  by  the  numbers  and  enthusiasm  of  the  people, 
by  the  presence  in  the  procession  of  representatives  of  every 
department  of  government,  every  branch  of  business,  every 
industrial  interest,  and  every  class  of  citizens,  then  Chicago 
has  spoken  as  has  no  other  community.  The  commanders 
and  soldiers  of  the  old  armies,  the  comnianders  of  the  pres- 
ent army,  the  miltary  authorities  and  military  forces  of  the 
state,  the  different  departments  of  the  city  government,  the 
manufacturing  and  commercial  interests  of  the  state  and 
city,  were  never  before  combhied  to  speak  so  grand  a  wel- 
come. Chicago  has  spoken  as  only  Chicago  can  speak. 
And  she  means  it. 

The  following  day  the  General  attended  a  reception 
given  by  the  Union  Veteran  Club,  given  at  McVicker's 
theatre,  at  10:30  A.  M.  The  speech  making  was  preceded 
by  an  allegorical  tableau. 

The  tableau  presented  a  semicircle  of  young  girls,  with 
a  throne  in  the  middle  of  the  arc  bearing  the  presiding 
genius.  This  central  figure  was  a  representative  of  Colum- 
bia, who  excited  unanimous  approval.  She  was  seated  on 
a  dais,  and  above  her  gleaming  helmet  she  bore  a  standard 
— that  of  the  Twenty-first  Illinois  Infantry — which  was  a 
mere  tatter.  The  bare  arms  were  bound  at  wrist  and  upper 
arm  with  broad  gold  bracelets.  The  pure  white  of  the 
waist  was  relieved  by  a  silken  flag  draped  as  tlie  skirt. 
The  lady,  Miss  Adeila  Barker,  by  her  many  charms,  pre- 


45^  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

sided  a  worthy  Queen  over  the  goddesses.  On  her  broad 
shield  she  bore  the  sahitation  to  General  Grant,  "In  the 
name  of  the  United  States  you  saved,  I  w^elcome  you." 

The  young  and  cliarming  representatives  of  the  states 
who  supported  them,  were  dressed  in  pure  white,  with 
strands  of  flowers  caught  in  their  skirts  and  clusters  of 
flowers  on  the  breast  and  in  the  hair.  They  wore  graceful 
crowns  of  blue,  edged  with  crimson  and  ornamented,  each 
with  three  silver  stars.  Flowing  down  from  the  crowns, 
the  luxuriant  hair,  in  almost  every  instance  blonde,  reached 
to  the  waist.  In  her  right  hand  each  goddess  held  a  blue 
shield  bearing  the  name  of  a  state  and  the  words  after  it, 
"  Welcome  you."  In  the  other  hand  she  flourished  a  small 
flag.  _ 

Six  little  goddesses,  representing  the  Territories,  stood 
a  little  in  advance  of  the  main  line,  directly  in  front  of 
Columbia,  and  bloomed  all  over  with  gay  flowers. 

A  noticeable  representative  of  a  State  was  the  tall  bru- 
nette, bearing  on  her  shield  the  legend,  "  Michigan  wel- 
comes you."  Her  raven  hair  sweeping  down  her  shoulders 
was  matched  by  a  broad,  black  scarf,  in  memory  of 
Chandler. 

General  Chetlain,  President  of  the  Union  Veterans, 
made  an  address  of  welcome.  An  eloquent  address  by 
Gen.  Hogan  received  hearty  and  enthusiastic  notice;  he  was 
followed  by  General  Grant,  who  said: 

"Comrades  and  Veterans  of  the  Late  War:  I 
was  entirely  unaware  of  the  object  of  my  coming  here  this 
moi-ning.  I  thought  it  was  to  be  the  place  where  we  were 
to  meet  tliis  evening,  or  some  other  place.  I  was  not  aware 
that  I  was  going  to  meet  so  many  of  my  old  comrades.  I 
assure  you  it  aifords  me  great  pleasure  to  meet  you  here, 
and  to  meet  you  everywhere. 

"Veterans  of  the  old  war,  and  my  former  companions  in 


1M 


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,.,  II* 

■     ■■'    ,1'    I 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  459 

all  my  travels,  I  have  not  been  in  a  country,  in  hardly  a 
town,  and  in  hardly  a  place,  in  the  two  and  a-half  years 
that  I  have  been  away  from  my  own  country  where  I 
have  not  met  some  of  your  number.  As  we  heard  last 
nig-ht,  wars,  while  not  desirable,  still  are  not  always  unat- 
tended with  good.  We  believe  sincerely  that  the  war 
which  we  waged  was  attended  with  great  good  to  our  coun- 
try. We  believe  that  our  victory  redounded  to  the  benefit 
of  the  vanquished,  as  well  as  to  ourselves.  We  believe 
that  they  to-day  would  have  been  in  a  very  much  worse 
condition  had  their  cause  succeeded,  and  we  certainly  would 
have  been  infinitely  worse  off.  Wars  render  another  ben- 
efit. People  who  grow  up  in  time  of  profound  peace  are 
very  apt  to  vegetate  and  live  along  in  the  place,  or  near 
the  place,  of  their  birth,  but  having  been  torn  away  from 
their  homes,  as  you  all  were,  and  having  passed  through 
the  struggles  and  privations  of  the  war,  you  were  the  more 
content  to  return  to  your  homes,  or  to  go  to  the  best  places 
for  the  development  of  your  intelligence  and  your  talents. 
The  veterans  of  the  war  are  now  scattered  over  this  broad 
land,  are  now  developing  our  Territories,  opening  new 
mines,  clearing  new  farms,  and  in  every  way  adding  to  the 
greatness  and  prosperity  of  our  nation.  They  are  making 
our  country  felt,  known,  and  appreciated  wherever  a  flag 
can  wave. 

"Now,  gentlemen,  I  have  said  a  great  deal  more  than  I 
had  any  idea  I  could  say  when  I  got  up.  But,  as  !Mark 
Twain  very  aptly  remarked  last  evening,  I  could  make  a 
very  much  better  extemporaneous  speech  if  I  had  a  couple 
of  hours  to  prepare  it." 

The  General's  address  aroused  the  wildest  enthusiasm, 
the  audience  springing  to  its  feet  and  giving  round  after  round 
of  ajDplause.  Hon.  Emory  A.  Storrs  delivered  the  address  of 
the   day,    and    was    accorded    a    flattering    reception.     In 


460  GENERAL    U.    S*.    GRANT's 

response  to  repeated  calls  from  the  audience,  Gen.  Fuller, 
ex-Gov.  Oglcsl)y,  Gen.  Woodford,  of  N.  Y,,  made  brief 
but  eloquent  addresses.     "  Taps  "  ended  the  programme. 

At  13  o'clock,  General  Grant  lunched  at  the  residence 
of  Hon.  E.  B.  Washburne.  The  affliir  was  private  and 
unostentatious.  At  2 130  o'clock  he  attended  the  reception 
of  the  society  of  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee.  Mrs.  Grant 
received  with  the  General.  Receiving  with  her  were  Mrs. 
Gen.  Logan,  ]Mrs.  W.  Q.  Gresham,  Mrs.  P.  H.  Sheridan, 
Mrs.  A.  L.  Chetlain,  and  Mrs.  Fred  Grant.  The  ladies 
v/ho  received  with  the  General,  were  in  full  dress. 

Gen.  Chetlain  and  Gen.  Logan  presented  each  of  the 
long  line,  announcing  their  names  and  passing  them  on. 
The  General  stood  the  ordeal  with  grim  silence,  occasion- 
ally muttering  a  word  with  old  acquaintances.  Each  comer 
was  presented  to  ISIrs.  Grant,  and  the  receiving  ladies  as 
far  as  possible,  but  the  encounter  with  the  General  and  his 
wife  was  generally  sufficient  for  all  who  passed. 

To  carry  out  the  programme  of  the  day,  at  3:30  the 
General  was  compelled  to  leave,  and  attend  the  reception 
of  the  Union  Veteran  Club,  where  the  wildest  enthusiasm 
was  manifested.  .Shortly  after  4  o'clock,  he  withdrew  to 
his  private  parlors  to  seek  the  needed  rest  and  prepare  him- 
self for  the  evening's  business. 

In  the  evening  the  General  attended  the  grand  banquet 
at  the  Palmer  House,  given  by  the  members  of  the  Army 
of  the  Tennessee.  No  handsomer  sight  was  ever  seen  in 
Chicago  than  that  afforded,  when  the  460  banqueters  had 
all  found  seats  at  eighteen  tables,  which  had  been  prepared 
for  tlieir  reception.  The  hall  was  handsomely  draped  with 
flags  and  embellished  with  evergreens  and  flowers.  Gen. 
W.  T.  Sherman  presided.  The  supper  itself  was  a  success. 
We  give  the  menu: 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD,  461 

THIRTEENTH  ANNUAL  BANQUET 

OF  THE 

SOCIETY  OF  THE  ARMY  OF  THE  TENNESSEE. 

MENU. 

Blue  Point  Oysters  on  the  Shell.      Sauterne. 
Green  Turtle  Soup.     Sherry. 
Boiled  California  Salmon.     Holland  Sauce.     Claret 
Parisienne  Potatoes. 
Roast  Fillet  of  Beef,  Larded  with  Mushrooms. 
Champagne. 
Croquets  of  Potatoes. 
Cutlets  of  Minced  Game. 
Sweet-breads  with  Spinach. 
Croquets  of  Chicken. 
Roman  Punch. 
Roast  Saddle  of  Venison. 
Roast  Prairie  Chicken. 
Buffalo  Steaks.     Truffle  Sauce. 
Breasts  of  Ducks,  Larded,  Currant  Jelly. 
Fillet  of  Wild  Turkey.     Cranberry  Sauce. 
Chicken  Salad. 
Shrimp   Salad. 
Celery  Salad 
Neapolitan  Ice  Cream. 
Ices. 
Cakes,  assorted. 

Wine  Jellies. 

Charlotte  Russe. 

Meringes,  assorted. 

Fruits. 

Hard  Tack. 

Roquefort  and  English  Cheese. 

Celery. 

Coffee. 

Cognac. 

Cigars. 

Palmer  House,  Nov.  13,  1879. 

At  10:45  General  Sherman  arose  and  quieted  the  tumult 

and  proceeded  to  say: 

"Gentlemen:  We  have  a  long  list  before  us,  and  one 
of  the  richest  I  have  ever  had  spread  before  me.  And  I  am 
extremely  anxious  that  this  evening  shall  be  a  bright  one  in 
our  future  memories.  We  can  only  accomplish  this  result 
by  almost  absolute  silence;  and  I  beg,  almost  iinplore  of 
you,  every  man,  to  be  just  as  quiet  as  possible,  because 


462  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

sounds  added  together  reverberate  in  this  hall,  and  will  spoil 
the  best  speech  that  can  possibly  be  made." 

He  then  complimented  the  musicians  upon  the  excel- 
lence of  their  efforts  thus  far;  and  suggested  that  where  the 
programme  called  for  music,  they  simply  give  a  soft  strain 
and  not  a  whole  tune.  "  Make  it,  as  it  were,  a  loop  be- 
tween the  speeches.  With  a  few  admonitions  of  this  kind, 
I  am  sure  we  will  have  an  evening,  a  night,  if  you  please, 
of  cheering  entertainment. 

"  I  do  not  pretend  to  say  any  thing  myself;  but  will  call 
the  toasts  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  recorded  on  the 
programme,  simply  introducing  each  speaker.  There  hap- 
pen to  be  three  speakers  absent,  but  their  places  have  been 
filled  by  the  Committee,  and  I  have  recorded  their  names, 
so  that  the  speeches  will  follow  each  other  in  quick  succes- 
sion. Each  speaker  is  requested  to  speak  as  long  as  he 
holds  his  audience.  As  to  applause,  gentlemen,  recollect 
that  that  takes  a  good  deal  of  time.  A  good,  hearty  laugh 
and  marked  applause  are  all  right,  but  don't  drawl  it  out 
into  a  long  giggle,  or  into  a  noise.  Let  the  applause  be 
short  and  emphatic. 

"Now,  gentlemen,  we  will  proceed  at  once  to  the  regu- 
lar order  of  the  evening.  And  I  am  pleased  to  see  every- 
body smiling  and  pleasant.  Some  of  the  speakers  who  are 
in  your  midst  will  speak  from  their  present  position,  either 
by  getting  on  a  chair  or  standing  as  they  please.  But, 
wherever  they  are,  I  beg  the  audience  to  give  them  a  re- 
spectful hearing." 

"  The  first  toast  of  the  evening,"  said  Gen.  Sherman,  "is 
Our  Country — Her  Place  Among  Nations,  "and  will  be 
responded  to  by  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant." 

As  General  Grant  arose  he  was  received  with  tumultu- 
ous applause  and  cheers,  which  lasted  several  minutes,  the 
greeting  being  extremely  cordial.  When  silence  was  re- 
stored he  said: 


tour  around  tiik   world. 

"Mr.  President  and  Gentlemen  of  the  society 
OF  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee,  and  Guests:  Notice 
was  sent  to  me  some  days  ago  that  I  was  to  respond  to  a 
toast  here,  but  I  paid  no  attention  to  it  at  the  time,  and  had 
no  idea,  until  I  got  here,  of  the  toast  I  was  to  reply  to.  I 
had  relied  upon  it  that  there  would  be  half  a  dozen  or  more 
speakers  before  I  would  be  called  upon,  and  that,  during 
that  time,  there  would  be  a  man  out  in  the  hall  I  would 
want  to  see,  or  thought  I  would  exert  some  other  flank 
movement  by  which  I  would  get  out  of  it.  Finding,  how- 
ever, after  my  arrival  here,  that  I  was  to  be  the  first  one 
called  upon,  and  hardly  feeling  it  would  be  proper  to  look  - 
for  that  man  so  eai'ly  in  the  evening,  I  put  in  a  substitute, 
but  the  President  of  your  Society  has  not  called  upon  the 
man.  I  know  if  he  h  d  called  the  name  on  his  paper  you 
would  have  heard  much  more  said  about  the  position  of  our 
country  among  the  nations  of  the  earth  than  I  can  say  to 
you.  I  can  feel  what  the  Mayor  would  probably  have  said 
if  the  President  had  called  upon  him.  But,  as  I  have  to 
say  a  word,  I  shall  rely  now  upon  your  signifying,  in  a  very 
few  moments,  your  disapprobation  of  what  I  am  saying,  so 
as  to  let  me  off.  The  President  has  given  notice  that  we 
are  not  to  speak  any  longer  than  we  can  hold  the  audience. 
Our  Nation  we  have  been  in  the  habit  ourselves  of  looking 
ujDon  as  being  one  of  the  first  nations  of  the  earth. 

"For  a  long  period  back  the  Yankee  has  had  not  only  a 
very  respectable  opinion  of  himself  individually,  but  of  his 
country  as  a  whole.  It  has  been  our  own  opinion  that  we 
had  nothing  to  fear  in  a  contest  with  any  other  Power.  I 
am  pleased  to  say,  that  from  the  observations  that  I  have 
been  able  to  make  in  the  last  two  and  a  half  years,  we  are 
beginning  to  be  regarded  a  little  by  other  Powers  as  we  in 
our  vanity  have  heretofore  regarded  ourselves.  We  do^ 
among  other  nations,  1  think,  to-day,  not  only  in  our  own 


464  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

conceit,  but  in  the  acknowledgment  of  other  nations,  occupy 
the  position  of  one  of  the  first  Powers  in  all  that  goes  to 
make  up  a  great  nationality.  We  have  the  strength,  we 
have  the  individual  self-assertion,  independence;  and  we 
have  to  a  greater  degree  than  almost  any  other  nation  the 
power  of  colonizing,  of  settling  up  new  country,  opening  it 
and  developing  it.  We  have  also  the  very  great  advantage 
of  being:  without  neisfhbors  to  molest  or  make  us  afraid.  It 
is  true  we  have  a  northern  frontier,  and  we  have  a  southern 
frontier,  but  we  get  along  with  a  very  small  army.  We 
keep  no  standing  army.  What  little  we  do  keep,  as  some 
one  remarked  the  other  day,  is  a  standing  army  because  it 
has  no  time  to  sit  down.  Mr.  President  [who  was  seated], 
I  find  you  filling  the  position  with  a  good  deal  of  ability.  I 
don't  know  of  anything  I  can  specially  add  to  what  I  have 
said,  except  in  the  way  of  advice ;  and  that  is,  let  us  be  true 
to  ourselves;  avoid  all  bitterness  and  ill-feeling,  either  on 
the  part  of  sections  or  parties,  toward  each  other,  avoid 
quarreling  among  ourselves,  and  we  need  have  no  fears  for 
the  future  of  maintaining  the  stand  that  we  have  taken 
among  nations,  so  far  as  opjDOsition  from  foreign  nations 
goes.     Gentlemen,  I  am  much  obliged  for  your  attention," 

The  "President  and  Congress"  was  responded  to  by 
General  Logan,  in  an  eloquent  address,  which  was  received 
with  rapturous  applause,  "The  Army  of  the  Tennessee" 
was  responded  to  by  General  Hurlburt,  and  was  a  glorious 
tribute  to  its  two  commanders,  Grant  and  Sherman,  The 
speaker  took  his  seat  amid  great  enthusiasm  and  cheers. 
The  toast,  "Our  First  Commander,  Gen,  U.  S.  Grant," 
was  responded  to  by  Col,  Vilas,  of  Madison,  Wis,, — a  War- 
Democrat — as  follows: 

"  Your  call  invites  me,  sir,  I  am  conscious,  to  give 
expression  to  the  profound  feeling  with  which  every  heart 
of  our  assembled  companions  respond  to  the  stirring  senti- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  465 

ment  But  how  shall  I  attempt  to  choose,  in  the  brief 
compass  the  occasion  allows,  from  the  multitudinous 
thoughts  that  crowd  the  mind?  Our  first  commander,  the 
illustrious  General,  whose  fame  has  grown  to  fill  the  world! 
Nay,  more!  Our  old  Band  of  the  Tennessee  was  his  first 
army!  What  honorable  memories  of  old  association  you, 
companions,  may  now  recall  !  How  splendid  was  your 
entrance  on  the  scene  of  arms!  The  anxious  eye  of  the 
North  had  Ions:  been  fixed  on  the  Eastern  theatre,  almost 
unconscious  of  the  new-formed  Arm\-  of  the  Tennessee 
and  its  unknown  General.  Suddenly  there  fell  on  the 
startled  ear  the  roar  of  your  fight  at  Donelson  and  your 
chieftain's  victorious  cry, — which  waked  the  country's  heart 
to  ecstasy,  and  rung,  like  a  prophetic  knell,  the  doom  our 
Army  of  Salvation  bore  to  Reliels, — '  Nothing,  but  uncon- 
ditional surrender.' 

"  Then,  but  a  few  days  later,  there  burst,  at  Shiloh,  upon 
this  Army  of  the  Tennessee,  the  flame  and  fury  of  '  the 
first  great  field-fight  of  the  war.'  In  desperate  doubt  the 
night-fall  of  the  bloody  day  closed  on  the  unequal  struggle. 
Higher,  then,  rose  the  iron  n  solution  of  that  great  com- 
mander. Urged  bv  cautious  counsel  to  prepare  the  way 
for  retreat,  with  trust  in  your  valor,  he  gave  the  character- 
istic answer,  '  I  have  not  despaired  of  whipping  them  yet.' 
And  lovallv,  on  the  morrow,  was  he  vindicated  in  that 
reliance,  as  he  rode  before  his  soldiery,  driving  the  enemy 
over  the  victorious  fields.  How  darkly  comes  back  in  recol- 
lection the  long  and  dismal  toil  in  the  pestilential  swamps 
before  impregnable  Vicksburg.  The  sky  was  overhung  in 
gloom,  and  the  soaked  earth  sunk  under  the  foot.  Unlit  by 
the  flash  of  powder,  unheralded  by  the  noise  of  arms,  in 
miserable  darkness,  the  last  enemy  irresistibly  plied  his 
fatal  work,  changing  the  river  levees — where  only  was 
solid  ground  for  burial — into  tombs  for  our  trebly-decimated 


4^6  GENKRAL    U.    S.    GUANt's 

ranks.  Then,  again,  new  light  broke  from  his  troubled 
genius  on  the  scene,  and  displayed  the  possible  path  of 
valor.  Breaking  past  the  rebel  battlements  and  across  the 
great  river,  he  flung  our  army  into  the  midst  of  the  hostile 
host,  like  a  mighty  gladiator  surrounded  by  his  foes,  choos- 
ing no  escape  but  in  victory.  There,  with  fiery  zest,  in 
fierce  rapidity,  he  smote  the  foe  the  crushing  strokes  for 
Fort  Gibson,  Raymond,  Jackson,  Champion  Hills,  and 
Black  River,  and  seized  the  doomed  city  with  the  unrelent- 
ing grasp  of  his  Army  of  the  Tennessee. 

"And  when,  on  the  new  birthday  of  the  Republic,  her 
flag  shook  out  its  beautiful  folds  above  the  ramparts  of  that 
boasted  citadel,  the  territory  of  revolt  was  finally  split  in 
twain, — the  backbone  of  the  Rebellion  was  broken. 

"  Such,  in  a  glance,  your  splendid  stoi-y,companions,  under 
our  first  commander.  He  and  his  army  of  the  Tennessee 
entered  on  the  page  of  history  together.  Together  thej 
achieved  the  first  great  prophetic  triumphs  for  the  Union; 
together  they  followed  and  fought  her  enemies  from  field 
to  field,  pushing  our  advancing  arms  in  steady  career 
towards  the  Gulf;  nor  were  their  efforts  for  our  country 
disunited  until,  having  dismembered  the  vast  Rebellion,  the 
beginning  of  its  utter  downfall  had  been  seen. 

"Guided  by  his  genius,  your  army  had  learned  to  fight 
only  to  conquer.  Parted  from  him,  it  forgot  not  the  teach- 
ing. Its  march  and  war  struck  every  revolted  State  save 
two,  but  never  General  anywhere  lamented  over  its  retreat 
from  the  field  of  arms.  Joyfully  may  we  point  to  that 
exalted  fame  which,  rising  like  a  pinnacle  of  the  Alps, 
breaks  through  the  firmament  above  to  carry  up  the  name 
of  the  unconquered  Grant;  for  it  is  our  felicity  that,  on  the 
solid  base  from  which  it  lifts,  history  has  written  the  proud 
legend  of  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee,  which  never  shunned 
and  never  lost,  a  battle  with  its  foes. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  467 

Joined  to  it  by  such  a  story,  and  especially  when  so 
assembled,  his  old  associates  and  soldiers  in  war,  we  may 
rightfully  without  censure  and  without  adulation,  claim  and 
speak  the  just  measure  of  his  merit  and  renown.  Nor  shall 
his  presence  deny  that  satisfaction  to  us.  His  reputation  is 
not  his,  nor  even  his  country's  alone.  It  is,  in  part,  our  pecu- 
liar possession.  We,  who  fought  to  aid  its  rising,  may  well 
rejoice  in  its  meridian  splendor. 

The  foundations  of  his  title  are  deep  laid  and  safe. 
There  was  reaction  in  the  minds  of  our  people  after  the 
intense  strain  of  war,  and  many  distracting  subjects  for 
attention.  But,  with  regained  composure  and  reflection, 
his  reputation  augments,  and  its  foundations  appear  more 
and  more  immovably  fixed  for  lasting  duration.  They 
spring  not  from  merely  having  enjoyed  possession  of  the 
honors  of  place  and  power  which  his  countrymen  have 
bestowed;  others  have  had  them  too.  They  lie  not  spe- 
cially on  his  shining  courage  and  personal  conduct  before  the 
enemy,  who  was  never  outdone  in  calm  intrepidity,  nor  in 
the  splendid  daring  with  which  he  ever  urged  the  battle  he 
immediately  ordered;  though  long  these  will  live  in  song 
and  story.  Beyond  the  warrior's  distinction,  which  was 
his  earlier  glory,  his  is  the  true  genius  of  the  General.  The 
strategic  learning  of  the  military  art  was  to  him  a  simple 
implement,  like  colors  and  brush  to  a  Raphael,  not  fetters 
to  the  mind.  How  like  a  weapon  in  a  giant's  hand  did  he 
wield  the  vast  aggregation  of  soldiery  whose  immensity 
oj^pressed  so  many  minds!  How  easily  moved  his  divis- 
ions, yet  how  firm  the  place  of  all !  How  every  soldier 
came  to  feel  his  participation  a  direct  contribution  to  the 
general  success.  And  when,  at  length,  his  merit  won  the 
government  of  the  entire  military  power  of  the  North,  how 
perfect  became,  without  noise  or  friction,  the  co-operation 
of  every  army,  of  every  strength,  throughout  the  wide  ter- 


\ 


4-68  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

ritory  of  war  towards  the  common  end!  Subordinate  every 
will  and  jealous  soul,  the  profound  military  wisdom  of  the 
capital  even,  to  the  clear  purpose  and  comprehensive  grasp 
of  the  one  commanding  mind.  Then  how  rapidly  crum- 
bled on  every  side  the  crushed  revolt!  When  shall  we  find 
in  past  records  the  tale  of  such  a  struggle  so  enormous  in 
extent,  so  nearly  matched  at  the  outset,  so  desperately 
contested,  so  effectively  decided  ?  Through  what  a  course 
of  uninterrupted  victory  did  he  proceed  from  the  earliest 
engagements  to  a  complete  dominion  of  the  vast  catastro- 
phe! Nor  should  it  be  forgotten,  he  fought  no  barbarians, 
ill-equipped,  undisciplined,  not  commanded  by  educated 
skill;  but  against  soldiers  of  the  finest  spirit,  armed  with  the 
best  weapons,  standing  on  their  own  familiar  ground,  and 
led  by  veteran  Generals  of  well-trained  science,  one  of 
whom,  at  least,  was  never  overmatched  on  his  chosen  field 
before. 

"Spare,  in  pity,  the  poor  brain  which  cannot  see,  in  this 
career,  more  than  a  dogged  pertinacity!  Out  upon  the 
unjust  prejudice  which  will  consciously  disparage  the  true 
meed  of  genius!  Leave  it  where  his  reliant  silence  leaves 
it;  leave  it  to  history!  leave  it  to  the  world. 

"  But  in  the  great  cause,  so  well  understood,  and  the  great 
results  to  men,  so  well  accomplished,  the  basis  of  his  renown 
is  justly  broadened.  For  the  salvation  of  this  Government 
of  freedom  for  mankind  we  took  up  arms.  When  liberty 
was  safe  they  were  laid  down  again.  Risen  to  the  highest 
seat  of  power,  he  has  descended  as  a  citizen  of  equal  rank 
with  all.  This  goes  to  the  soul  of  American  liberty, 
ennobling  individual  citizenship  above  all  servants  in 
office.  His  is  indeed  the  noblest  grandeur  of  mankind  who 
can  rise  fi^om  the  grasp  of  overtopping  power  above  the 
ambition  of  self  to  exalt  the  ambition  of  humanity^ 
denying    the    spoils     of    the    brief    time  to    the    lasting 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  469 

guerdon  of  immortal  honor.  The  jud<:^ment  of  imme- 
diate contemporaries  has  been  apt  to  rise  too  high  or 
fall  too  low.  But  let  not  detraction  or  calumny  mislead. 
They  have  ever  been  the  temporal  accompaniments  of 
human  greatness.  That  glory  cannot  rise  beyond  the  clouds, 
which  passes  not  through  the  clouds.  We  may  confidentlv 
accept  the  judgment  of  the  world.  It  has  been  unmistak- 
ably delivered.  But  latelv,  as  he  had  pressed  his  wander- 
ins:  course  about  the  round  earth,  mankind  have  everv- 
where  bowed  in  homage  at  his  coming,  as  the  ancient 
devotees  of  the  East  fell  before  the  sun  at  rising.  These 
honors  were  not  paid  to  his  person,  which  was  unknown ; 
they  were  not  paid  to  his  country,  for  which  he  went  on  no 
errand,  and  whose  representative  never  had  the  like  before; 
they  were  not  paid  to  him  as  to  some  potentate  of  a  people, 
for  he  journeyed  not  as  a  man  in  power.  Thev  have  been 
the  willing  prostration  of  mortality  before  a  glory  imper- 
ishable. 

"His  memory  shall,  indeed,  be  in  ,the  line  of  the  heroes  of 
\var,  but  distinctive  and  apart  from  the  greater  number. 
Not  with  the  kind  of  Alexander,  who  ravaged  the  earth  to 
add  to  mere  dominion;  nor  of  Belisarius,  who  but  fed  the 
greedy  craving  of  an  innperial  beast  of  prey ;  not  with 
Marlborough,  Eugene,  Wellington,  who  played  the  parts 
set  them  by  the  craft  of  diplomacy ;  not  with  the  Napoleons, 
^vho  chose  "  to  wade  through  slaughter  to  the  throne,  and 
•shut  the  gates  of  mercy  on  mankind;"  not  with  Caesar,  who 
would  have  put  the  ambitious  hand  of  arms  on  the  delicate 
fabric  of  constitutional  freedom;  America  holds  a  higher 
place  in  the  congregation  of  glory  for  her  heroes  of 
Liberty,  where  sits  in  expectation,  her  majestic  Washington. 
In  nobler  ambition  than  the  gaining  of  empire,  they  have 
borne  their  puissant  arms  for  the  kingdom  of  man,  where 
Liberty  reigneth  forever.     From  the  blood  poured   out  in 


470  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT'S 

their  warfare,  sweet  incense  rose  to  Heaven;  and  angels 
soothed,  with  honorable  pride,  the  tears  which  sorrow 
started  for  the  dead. 

"Home  again  now,  our  first  commander,  after  the  journey 
of  the  world!  Here,  here  again,  we  greet  him,  at  our 
social  board,  where  with  recurring  years,  we  regale  on 
the  deeper-ripening  memories  of  our  soldiership  for  Free- 
dom. Partakers  of  the  labors,  the  perils,  the  triumphs, 
which  were  the  beginnings  of  his  glory,  we  join  now,  with 
exultation,  in  the  welcoming  honors  by  which  his  grateful 
countrymen  tell  their  foreknowledge  of  the  immortality 
of  his  renown.  Long  and  many  be  the  years,  illustrious 
leader  before  your  hour  of  departure  come!  Green  and  vig- 
orous be  your  age,  undecayed  every  faculty  of  mind  and 
sense,  in  full  fruition  of  the  wxll-earned  joys  of  life;  happy 
in  the  welfare  of  your  native  land,  the  love  of  your  coun- 
trymen, the  admiration  of  the  world!" 

The  vast  assembly  rose  to  its  feet  as  the  eloquent 
Colonel  concluded  his  response  and  sat  down.  The  hall 
resounded  with  applause  and  cheers,  and  everybody  waved 
a  napkin  or  a  handkerchief  in  the  air  to  show  appreciation 
of  what  must  be  considered  as  the  most  dignified  and 
scholarly  response,  made  all  the  more  enjoyable  by  the 
Colonel's  eloquence,  of  the  entire  evening.  Colonel  Vilas 
was  obliged  to  respond  to  all  this  enthusiasm  by  remounting 
his  chair   and   receiving  three  rousing  cheers  as   he  did  so. 

The  "  Officers  and  Soldiers  of  the  Mexican  War,'* 
responded  to  by  General  Woodford.  "  The  Army  of  the  Po- 
tomac," responded  toby  Leonard  Swett.  "The  Army  of  the 
Cumberland — its  leaders."  Response  by  General  Wilson. 
"  The  other  Armies.  "  Response  by  General  Pope.  "  The 
Volunteer  Soldiers,"  by  Colonel  Robert  G.  Ingersoll. 
"  The  Patriotic  People,"  Emory  A.  Storrs.  "Woman," 
General   Fletcher.     The  last  regular  toast  of  the  evening 


TOUR    AROUXD    TliE    WORLD.  471 

was,  "  The  Babies;  as  they  comfort  us  in  our  sorrows,  let 
us  not  forget  them  in  our  festivities,"  responded  to  by 
Mark  Twain.     He  said : 

"  I  like  that.  AVe  have  not  all  had  the  good  fortune  to 
be  ladies.  We  have  not  all  been  generals,  or  poets,  or 
statesmen,  but  when  the  toast  works  down  to  the  babies  we 
stand  on  common  ground,  for  we  have  all  been  babies.  It 
is  a  shame  that,  for  a  thousand  years,  the  world's  banquets 
have  utterly  ignored  the  baby,  as  if  he  didn't  amount  to 
anything,  If  you  will  stop  and  think  a  minute, — if  you  will 
go  back  fifty  or  a  hundred  years  to  your  early  married  life, 
and  recontemplate  your  first  baby, — you  will  remember 
that  he  amounted  to  a  good  deal,  and  even  something  over. 
You  soldiers  all  know  that  when  that  little  fellow  arrived 
fit  family  headquarters  you  had  to  hand  in  your  resignation. 
He  took  entire  command.  You  became  his  lackey — his 
mere  body-servant,  and  you  had  to  stand  around,  too.  He 
was  not  a  commander  who  made  allowances  for  time,  dis- 
tance, weather,  or  any  thing  else.  You  had  to  execute  his 
order  whether  it  was  possible  or  not.  And  there  was  only 
one  form  of  machinery  in  his  manual  of  tactics,  and  that 
was  the  double-quick.  He  treated  you  with  every  sort  of 
insolence  and  disrespect,  and  the  bravest  of  you  didn't  dare 
to  say  a  word.  You  could  face  the  death  storm  of  Donel- 
son  and  Vicksburg,  and  give  back  blow  for  blow,  but  when 
he  clawed  your  whiskers,  and  pulled  your  hair,  and  twisted 
your  nose,  you  had  to  take  it.  When  the  thunders  of  war 
were  sounding  in  your  ears,  you  set  your  faces  toward  the 
batteries,  and  advanced  with  steady  tread,  but  when  he 
turned  on  the  terrors  of  his  war-whoop,  you  advanced  in  the 
other  direction,  and  mighty  glad  of  the  chance,  too.  When 
he  called  for  soothing-syrup,  did  you  venture  to  throw  out 
any  side  remarks  about  certain  services  being  unbecoming 
an   officer  and   a  gentleman?     No.     You  got  up  and  got 


472  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

it.  When  he  ordered  his  pap  bottle,  and  it  was  not  warm 
did  you  talk  back?  Not  you.  You  went  to  work  and 
warmed  it.  You  even  descended  so  far  in  your  menial 
office  as  to  take  a  suck  at  that  warm,  insipid  stuff,  just  to  see 
if  it  was  right, — three  parts  water  to  one  of  milk, — a  touch 
of  sugar  to  modify  the  colic,  and  a  drop  of  peppermint  to 
kill  those  immortal  hiccoughs.  I  can  taste  that  stuff.  And 
how  many  things  you  learned  as  3'^ou  went  along!  Senti- 
mental young  folks  still  take  stock  in  that  beautiful  old  say- 
ing, that  when  the  baby  smiles  it  is  because  the  angels  are 
whispering  to  him.  Very  pretty,  but  too  thin — simply 
wind  on  the  stomach,  my  friends.  If  the  baby  proposed  to 
take  a  walk  at  his  usual  hour,  2  o'clock  in  the  morning,, 
didn't  you  rise  up  promptly  and  remark,  with  a  mental 
addition  which  would  not  improve  a  Sunday-school  book 
much,  that  that  was  the  very  thing  you  were  about  to  pro- 
pose yourself?  Oh!  you  were  under  good  discipline,  and,, 
as  you  went  faltering  up  and  down  the  room  in  your 
undress  uniform,  you  not  only  prattled  undignified  baby- 
talk,  but  even  tuned  up  your  martial  voices  and  tried  to  sing 
"  Rock-a-by  baby  in  the  tree  top,"  for  instance.  What  a 
spectacle  for  an  Army  of  the  Tennessee!  And  what  an 
affliction  for  the  neighbors,  too,  for  it  is  not  everybody  within 
a  m.ile  around  that  likes  militar}^  music  at  three  in  the  morn- 
ing. And  when  you  had  been  keeping  this  sort  of  thmg 
up  two  or  three  hours,  and  your  little  velvet-head  intimated 
that  nothinsf  suited  him  like  exercise  and  noise,  what  did 
you  do?  You  simply  went  on  until  you  dropped  in  the  last 
ditch.  The  idea  that  a  baby  doesn't  amount  to  anything!' 
Why,  one  baby  is  just  a  house  and  a  front  yard  full  by 
Itself.  One  baby  can  furnish  more  business  than  you  and 
your  whole  Interior  Department  can  attend  to.  He  is 
enterprising,  irrepressible,  brimful  of  lawless  activities. 
Do  what  you  please,  you  can't  make  him  stay  on  the  reser- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  473 

vation.  Sufficient  unto  the  day  is  one  baby.  As  long  as 
you  are  in  your  right  mind  don't  you  ever  pray  for  twins. 
Twins  amount  to  a  permanent  riot.  And  there  ain't  any 
real  difference  between  triplets  and  an  insurrection. 

"Yes,  it  was  high  time  for  a  toast  to  the  masses  to  recog- 
nize the  importance  of  the  babies.  Think  what  is  in  store 
for  the  present  crop!  Fifty  years  from  now  we  shall  all  be 
dead,  I  trust,  and  then  this  flag,  if  it  still  survive  (and  let  us 
hope  it  may),  will  he  floating  over  a  repuVViic  numbering 
200,000,000  souls,  according  to  the  settled  laws  of  our 
increase.  Our  present  schooner  of  state  will  have  grown 
into  a  political  leviathan — a  Great  Eastern.  The  cradled 
babies  of  to-day  will  be  on  deck.  Let  them  be  well  trained, 
for  we  are  going  to  leave  a  big  contract  on  their  hands. 
Among  the  three  or  four  million  cradles  now  rocking  in  the 
land  are  some  which  this  nation  would  preserve  for  ages  as 
sacred  things,  if  we  could  know  which  ones  they  are.  In 
one  of  these  cradles,  the  unconscious  Farragut  of  the  future 
is  at  this  moment  teething;  think  of  it,  and  putting  in  a 
word  of  dead  earnest,  inarticulated,  but  perfectly  justifiable 
profanity  over  it,  too.  In  another  the  future  renowned 
astronomer  is  blinking  at  the  shining  milky  way  with  Init  a 
liquid  interest,  poor  little  chap!  and  wondering  what  has 
become  of  that  other  one  they  call  the  wet  nurse.  In 
another  the  future  great  historian  is  lying,  and  doubtless 
will  continue  to  lie  until  his  earthly  mission  is  ended.  In 
another  the  future  President  is  busying  himself  with  no  pro- 
founder  problem  of  state  than  what  the  mischief  has  become 
of  his  hair  so  early,  and  in  a  mighty  array  of  other  cradles 
there  are  now  some  60,000  future  office-seekers,  j^ettin''" 
ready  to  furnish  him  occasion  to  grapple  with  that  same 
old  problem  a  second  time.  And  in  still  one  more  cradle, 
somewhere  under  the  flag,  the  future  illustrious  commander- 
in-chief  of  the  American  armies  is  so  little  burdened  with 


4-74  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

his  approaching  giandcurs  and  responsibilities  as  to  be  giv- 
ing his  whole  strategic  mind  at  this  moment  to  trying  to 
find  out  some  way  to  get  his  big  toe  into  his  mouth — an 
achievement  which,  meaning  no  disrespect,  the  illustrious 
guest  of  this  evening  turned  his  attention  to  some  fifty-six 
years  ago;  and  if  the  child  Is  but  a  prophecy  of  the  man, 
there  are  mighty  few  who  will  doubt  that  he  succeeded." 

Letters  of  regret  were  read  from  President  Hayes, 
members  of  the  cabinet,  governors  of  states,  judges  of  the 
Supreme  Court,  civil,  military  and  naval  officers.  The 
Chicago  Tribune,  speaking  of  speeches  at  this  banquet, 
said : 

'  These  were  specimens  of  oratory,  for  the  most  part,  that 
every  American  may  be  proud  of;  one  or  two  of  the  addresses 
were  so  brilliant  that,  like  Ingersoll's  eulogy  on  Blaine 
in  the  Cincinnati  Convention,  they  are  likely  to  find  their 
way  into  the  jjrints  of  all  countries;  one  or  two  others  were 
strikingly  characteristic  of  the  humor  and  sentiment  of  the 
American  people.  In  an  oratorical  tournament  General 
Grant  is,  of  course,  better  as  a  listener  than  as  a  talker;  he 
is  a  man  of  deeds  rather  than  words.  The  same  misfht  be 
said  of  General  Sherman,  though,  as  presiding  officer  and 
toast-master  of  the  occasion,  his  impromptu  remarks  were 
always  pertinent  and  keen." 

Col.  Bob.  Ingersoll  succeeded  in  retaining  the  laurels 
which  was  so  long  since  placed  upon  his  brow,  though 
when  Col.  Vilas,  of  Madison,  sat  down,  it  was  thought 
that  even  Ingersoll's  povv'ers  of  oratory  would  be  severely 
taxed  to  arouse  equal  enthusiasm.  Ingersoll's  theme — "  The 
volunteer  soldiers  " — was  one  that  drew  from  his  warm  heart 
the  most  earnest  outpourings  of  gratitude  and  eulogy.  He 
had  an  opportunity  to  pay  a  tribute  to  the  men  whom  he 
most  loves  and  respects  in  all  the  world,  because  they  fought 
freely  and  heroically  in  the  cause  of  the  nation  and  univer- 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  475 

sal  humanity.  His  speech  glittered  with  hyperbole,  rendered 
more  brilliant  by  the  orator's  earnest  delivery,  and  nearly 
every  word  seemed  like  a  beautiful  picture  to  the  delighted 
senses  of  his  hearers.  What  more  bountiful  imagery  could 
have  been  presented  than  when  he  spoke  of  the  volunteer 
soldiers  as  "the  defenders  of  humanity,  the  destroyers  of 
prejudice,  the  breakers  of  chains,"  or,  again,  as  "the  sav- 
iors of  the  Republic  and  the  liberators  of  men !"  How  strik- 
ing the  figure  that  Lincoln,  in  his  Emancipation  Proclama- 
tion, "coj^ied  with  the  pen  what  the  grand  hands  of  brave 
comrades  had  written  with  their  swords!"  How  pictur- 
esque the  greeting  to  Grant  as,  "the  great  leader  who,  hav- 
ing put  a  shining  hand  of  friendship — a  girdle  of  clasped 
and  loving  hands  around  the  globe,  came  home  to  find 
that  every  promise  made  in  war  has  now  the  ring  and  gleam 
of  gold!"  How  appropriate  and  stirring  was  his  final  apos- 
trophe, ending:  "Let  us  drink  to  all  the  living  and  all  the 
dead — to  Sherman,  and  to  Sheridan,  and  to  Grant,  the 
laureled  soldiers  of  this  world,  and  last  to  Lincoln,  whose 
loving  life,  like  a  bow  of  peace,  spans  and  arches  all  the 
clouds  of  war!"  There  is  little  wonder  that  Ingersoll  was 
interrupted  at  every  sentence  with  loud  and  ringing  ap- 
plause, though  the  night  was  far  spent  and  the  assembled 
hundi-eds  weary." 

The  speech  of  Col.  Vilas,  who  responded  to  the  toast, 
"  Our  First  Commander — U.  S.  Grant,"  was  a  genuine 
surprise.  Even  those  who  had  reason  to  expect  something 
brilliant  from  him  must  have  been  astonished  at  the  rich 
garnishment  of  language  which  this  Wisconsin  orator 
brought  to  Grant's  glory.  The  latter-day  prejudice  against 
what  is  known  as  "  fine  writing "  was  dissipated  by  the 
sonorous  and  well  rounded  periods  which  he  turned  off  so 
magically,  and  which  took  the  multitude  off  their  feet. 
This   tribute  to  Grant's  renown   was   the    more   effective 


476  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANT's 

because  it  came  from  an  old  Democrat,  and  there  was 
something  very  like  a  pointed  rebuke  to  many  member?  oi 
his  own  party  when  Col.  Vilas  exclaimed :  "  Spar  e,  in 
pity,  the  poor  brain  which  cannot  see  in  this  career  more 
than  a  dogged  pertinacity !  Out  upon  the  unjust  prejudice 
which  will  consciously  disparage  the  true  meed  of  genius! 
Leave  it  where  his  reliant  silence  leaves  it, — leave  it  to 
history,  leave  it  to  the  world."  The  sketch  of  Grant's 
military  achievements  was  rapid,  impetuous,  and  vivid,  but 
the  most  eloquent  part  of  the  speech  was  that  contrasting 
America's  military  heroes  with  those  of  other  nations,  illus- 
trating their  worthier  motives,  and  ending:  "In  nobler 
ambition  than  the  gaining  of  empire,  they  have  borne  their 
puissant  arms  for  the  Kingdom  of  Man,  where  Liberty 
reigneth  forever ;  from  the  blood  poured  out  in  their  war- 
fare sweet  incense  rose  to  Heaven,  and  angels  soothed  with 
honorable  pride  the  tears  which  sorrow  started  for  the 
dead." 

There  were  other  speeches  at  the  Palmer  House 
banquet  which,  if  not  so  spirited  as  the  two  from  which  we 
have  quoted,  were  still  specimens  of  oratory  of  which  all 
Americans  will  be  proud.  Notable  among  these  were  the 
address  of  Gen.  Woodford  who  spoke  for  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac,  and  that  of  Mr.  Storrs,  who  paid  tribute  to  the 
patriotism  of  those  who  fed  and  clothed  our  armies.  Mark 
Twain's  speech  was  a  characteristic  specimen  of  that 
peculiar  American  humor  that  perplexes  the  people  of 
other  lands  and  other  manners,  and  its  success  is  best 
attested  by  the  roars  and  convulsions  of  laughter  with 
which  it  was  received  at  an  hour  when  people  ordinarily 
find  it  difficult  to  hold  up  their  heads  and  keep  their  eyes 
open.  His  sketch  of  the  immature  heroes  of  the  future 
was  made  up  of  genuine  wit,  and,  altogether,  he  was 
delivered  of  one  of  the  happiest  efforts  of  his  life. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  477 

The  eloquence  of  the  Palmer  House  banquet  will  be 
felt  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land,  and 
will  be  memorable  in  the  annals  of  the  Army  of  the 
Tennessee  till  the  last  survivor  of  that  Association  shall 
pass  away. 

On  the  14th,  Col.  and  Mrs.  Fred  Grant  gave  a  recep- 
tion at  their  home  from  12  to  4  o'clock,  and  was  one  of  the 
most  pleasant  gatherings  given  the  honored  guest,  and  was 
attended  by  the  elite  of  the  city.  Every  tiling  was  elegant 
and  in  perfect  order.  A  profusion  of  rich  and  elaborate  re- 
ception toilets  were  displayed  by  the  ladies  present,  and  the 
tasteful  blending  of  colors  served  to  lend  an  additional 
beauty  to  the  already  brilliant  picture. 

Mrs.  Grant  was  richly  attired  in  a  princess  dress  of  heavy 
royal  purple  velvet,  with  iront  of  fringe  and  purple  beads  j 
corsage  square,  and  filled  in  with  point  lace;  heavy  wrought 
gold  bracelets;  diamond  cross  and  earrings;  hair  in  coil, 
fastened  with  tortoise  comb. 

Mrs.  Fred  Grant  wore  a  rich  dress  of  white  striped 
grenadine,  embroidered  with  white  silk,  with  clusters  of 
pinks  and  white  roses ;  diamond  jewelry ;  hair  dressed  high, 
with  gold  band  and  bangles,  and  gold  ornaments. 

In  the  evening  a  reception  by  the  Chicago  Club  at  their 
club  house,  was  second  only,  perhaps,  in  importance  in  the 
series  of  receptions  given  General  Grant,  to  that  of  the 
banquet  by  the  Army  of  the  Tennessee;  1,200  were  pres- 
ent. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Grant  and  the  reception  party  arrived 
early,  and  took  their  places  in  the  card  room — which  is  the 
largest  apartment  in  the  building — promptly  at  8  o'clock,  in 
the  following  order:  Mr.  Grant,  with  Mrs.  Grant  immedi- 
ately on  his  right.  Next  came  Mrs.  Gen.  Sheridan,  then 
Mi-s.  Fred  Grant,  then  Mrs.  Rebert  Lincoln  and  Mrs.  Wirt 
Dexter.  Immediately  on  the  left  of  General  Grant  stood 
Mr.  J.  M.  Walker  and  E.  B.  McCagg,  who  acted  as  an  in- 
troductory committee. 


478  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

At  about  10  o'clock  supjDcr  was  announced. 

At  about  10:45  o'clock  the  guests  began  to  call  for  their 
carriages  and  take  their  departure  for  their  homes.  From 
this  time  forth  the  rooms  rapidly  thinned  out,  for  at  a  little 
after  1 1  o'clock  the  reception  closed,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  U. 
S.  Grant,  accompanied  by  their  son,  Col.  Fred  Grant,  and 
his  "wife,  were  driven  away  to  the  home  of  the  latter. 

Everybody  seemed  to  be  well  pleased  with  the  enter- 
tainment, and  from  beginning  to  end  it  was  a  stupendous 
success.  The  Chicago  Club  established  its  rej^utation  for 
giving  receptions  at  the  entertainment  given  in  honor  of 
President  and  Mrs.  Hayes  a  j^ear  ago,  but  last  night's  effort 
capped  the  climax.  Not  a  break  or  a  hitch  was  perceptible 
throughout,  and  every  person  must  have  felt  that  special 
arrangements  had  been  made  for  his  or  her  entertainment. 
A  more  thoroughly  enjoyable  occasion  is  not  on  record  in 
Chicago. 

On  the  Saturday  morning  the  Mexican  veterans  called 
upon  the  General  in  a  body,  and  were  received  with  great 
warmth  and  cordiality.  Speeches  were  made  by  Leonard 
Swett,  Col.  Buell,  of  California,  Hon.  A.  L.  Mon-ison  and 
others.  The  speakers  were  rewarded  by  prolonged 
applause.  At  two  o'clock  a  general  reception  was  given  at 
the  Grand  Pacific  Hotel,  and  was  very  generally  participated 
in  by  the  people.     The  reception  closed  promptly   at  five 

o'clock. 

In  the  evening  Potter  Palmer  entertained  the  dis- 
tinguished guests,  and  was  fully  up  to  the  high  order  of 
entertainments  which  had  been  given  to  the  General  since 
he  first  planted  foot  in  Chicago.  It  being  Saturday,  the 
reception  was  not  intended  to  be  prolonged  until  a  late 
hour.  At  eleven  o'clock,  the  guests  were  greatly  dimin- 
ished in  numbers,  and  General  and  Mrs.  Grant  took  their 
leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Palmer,  and  drove  to  their  son's  res- 
idence with  the  latter  and  his  wife. 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  479 

The  display  of  elaborate  and  costly  toilets  outshone  any 
previous  display  of  the  week,  and  each  lady  seemed  to  vie 
with  the  other  in  the  elegance  of  her  costume. 

Mrs.  General  U .  S.  Grant  woi-e  an  elaborate  toilet  of 
w^hite  satin,  with  white  duchess  lace  front  and  shirred  bot- 
tom, black  drapery  of  lace  and  trimming  of  rich  embroidery 
and  pearls,  very  low  corsage  and  short  sleeves;  heavy 
wrought  gold  bracelets,  and  diamond  and  pearl  ornaments. 

Mrs;  Potter  Palmer  was  richly  dressed  in  a  white  satin 
plaited  skirt,  trimmed  with  wine  and  gold  brocade;  superb 
diamond  ornaments. 

Mrs.  Col.  Fred.  Grant  wore  a  rich  robe  of  white  satin, 
covered  with  Spanish  lace;  gold  coronet  and  diamonds. 

Mrs.  Genei-al  Sheridan  was  tastefully  attired  in  a  plain 
black  cashmere  dress,  cut  low,  and  trimmed  with  duchess 
lace;  jet  ornaments. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  General  attended  the  Cente- 
nary Methodist  Church,  H.  W.  Thomas,  D.  D.,  pastor, 
being  "  at  home  "  during  the  rest  of  the  day  only  to  his 
most  intimate  friends. 

The  visit  of  the  school  children  to  General  Grant  at  the 
Exposition  building  on  Monday  was  one  of  the  most  not- 
able features  of  his  sojourn.  The  huge  building  swarmed 
with  the  little  people,  forty  or  fifty  thousand  in  number,  all 
of  whom  had  an  opportunity  to  see  the  hero  of  the  war  of 
the  rebellion,  and  many  of  them  a  chance  to  shake  hands 
and  speak  with  him. 

The  Calumet  club  entertained  the  General  and  Mrs» 
Grant,  in  the  evening  at  their  club  house.  The  guests  were 
not  so  numerous  as  at  the  Chicago  club  reception  on  Friday 
evening.  There  was  a  decided  effort  made  to  eclipse  the 
other  affair  by  making  the  list  smaller  and  more  select. 
There  was  a  greater  display  of  dress  and  fashion  also.  The 
people  present  numbered  about  five  hundred,  and  besides 


^8o  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

being  representative  of  the  first  society  of  Chicago,  com- 
prised also  a  fair  proportion  of  distinguished  persons  frorr 
abroad  who  were  in  the  city. 

The  toilets  were  generally  of  the  most  fashionable  make, 
and  of  extremely  rich  materials.  Experienced  society  peo- 
ple expressed  astonishment  at  the  beauty  of  many  of  the 
costumes  worn  and  at  the  brilliancy  of  the  display  of  jewelry 
— diamonds  especially  seemed  to  be  as  fashionable  as  ever, 
and  imported  laces  for  neck  wear  and  trimming  were 
almost  the  rule. 

Mrs.  General  Grant  was  attired  in  an  elegantly  made 
white  silk,  watered,  in  combination  with  garnet  hrocaded 
silk,  with  rich  fringe  of  the  same;  elegant  oriental  fan,  bou- 
quet, tortoise-shell  comb  in  hair,  which  was  dressed  high; 
elegant  diamond  brooch,  and  solitaire  pendants. 

Mrs.  Colonel  Grant  wore  a  combination  cream-colored 
and  wine-colored  brocaded  silk;  point  lace  and  diamonds. 

The  menu  was  of  the  most  artistic  pieces  of  culinary 
art  seen  in  Chicago  for  many  a  day,  and  will  doubtless 
become  one  of  the  models  of  the  season.    It  was  as  follows: 


CALUMET  CLUB. 

Reception  to 

GENERAL  AND  MRS.  GRANT. 


MENU. 


Escalloped  Oysters.   . 
Oyster  Patties  a  la  Bachamel. 


Gelatine  of  Turkey  with  Truffles,  en  Belle  "V  ue. 

Boned  Partridge  with  Jelly,  en  Voliere, 

Boned  Quail  with  Truffles,  a  la  Regence. 

Sliced  Buftalo  Tongue,  a  la  St.  Hubert. 

Breast  of  Chicken,  with  Mayonaise,  a  la  Parisenne. 

Gulf  Shrimp  Salad,  Wine  Jelly. 

Fillet  of  Salmon  with  Mayonaise. 


TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD.  4^1 

Rolled  Sandwiches.        Vienna  Cream  Rolls. 


Ornamental  Confectionery. 


Assorted  Creams  and  Ices, 

Pudding  Glace.      Bisque  Glace. 

Pudding,  a  la  Viesselrode, 

Charlotte  Russe,  Wine  Jelly. 

Assorted  Cake. 


Fruit.  Coffee. 

November  17,  1S79. 

The  last  day  of  General  Grant's  stay  in  Chicago  was 
crowded  full  of  incidents  of  interest.  In  the  forenoon  oc- 
curred a  visit  to  the  Chicago  Commandery  of  the  Order  of 
the  Loyal  Legion  of  the  United  States,  where  General 
Grant  was  formally  received  and  decorated  as  a  member  of 
the  Order.  Then  followed  a  call  from  the  only  four  sur- 
vivingf  veterans  of  the  war  of  i8i3  residingf  in  Chicago,  all 
of  them  octogenarians,  and  proud  of  the  privilege  of  greet- 
ing: a  militarv  hero  who  was  born  ten  vears  after  their  sei*- 
vices  ended.  General  Grant's  visit  to  the  Protestant  Or- 
phan Asylum,  the  first  charitable  association  organized  in 
Chicago,  was  an  important  episode  in  the  history  of  that 
worthy  institution,  and  a  memorable  experience  for  its  in- 
mates. In  the  evening-the  General  shed  the  lustie  of  his 
presence  upon  tlic  performance  at  McVicker's  Theatre,  as 
the  guest  of  the  Second  Regiment,  and  thus  ended  the  pub- 
lic portion  of  his  sojourn  in  Chicago. 

The  General  and  ]SIrs.  Grant  left  Chicago  Wednesdav 
morning  for  their  home  at  Galena,  where  they  arrived 
safely  the  same  day. 

The  Jn/er- Ocean y  m  summing  up  the  week's  series  of 
-entertainment,  said: 

"The  demonstration  last  night  at  McVicker's  closed  the 


4S3  GENERAL    U.    S.    GRANt's 

week  in  Chicago  devoted  to  the  i-eception  of  General  Grant. 
The  week  has  been  a  memorable  one,  and  Chicago  may 
well  be  proud  of  the  record  she  has  made.  There  has  been^ 
from  the  time  of  the  great  demonstration  on  Wednesday,, 
scarcely  a  break  in  the  line  of  receptions  and  entertainments. 
On  Wednesday  thci'e  were  over  one  hundred  thousand 
strangers  in  Chicago,  and  these,  with  the  citizens  who  took 
part  in  the  parade,  or  who  tui'ned  out  to  witness  it,  swelled 
the  crowd  on  the  streets  to  over  three  hundred  thousand.. 
Although  people  were  wild  with  enthusiasm  and  greatly 
excited,  not  a  single  serious  accident  occurred  that  day  or 
during  the  week.  The  railroads  centering  in  Chicago- 
brought  the  great  crowd  of  visitors  to  the  city  within  the 
space  of  twenty-four  hours,  and  although  scores  of  extra 
trains  came  in  such  a  way  as  to  bewilder  through  passen- 
gers and  suburban  residents,  there  was  little  confusion,  no 
disarrangement  of  time  tables,  and  no  accidents. 

"Chicago  has  succeeded  in  speaking  vociferously  a  most 
hearty  welcome  to  General  Grant,  and  in  prolonging  the 
festivities  and  formalities  incident  to  so  great  an  occasion 
without  having  the  record  marred  by  any  public  or  private 
calamity." 

In  all  these  gatherings  Grant  has  been  the  central 
figvire.  The  people  have  employed  every  possible  means  to 
express  their  enthusiam  and  good  feeling.  The  numerous 
receptions,  banquets,  and  informal  meetings  were  but  the 
outgrowth  of  this  sentiment.  Not  content  with  a  general 
shout  of  acclamation,  or  with  one  great  outburst  of 
enthusiasm,  finding  expression  in  swelling  cheers  and 
elaborate  decorations,  the  peojjle  of  Chicago  have  sought 
to  testify  their  appreciation  of  the  work  and  character  of 
General  Grant  in  ways  that  seemed  to  them  most  fitting 
and  most  expi-essive.  They  had  only  a  week  in  which  to 
speak  volumes,  and  they  have  made  good  use  of  the  time^ 


TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD.  483 

The  series  of  receptions  has  been  in  effect  a  continuous  ova- 
tion, and  when  the  people  say  good-bye  to  General  Grant, 
on  his  departure  for  Galena  to-day,  they  will  feel  that,  after 
all  that  has  been  said  and  done  during  this  week,  so 
remarkable  for  its  demonstrations,  Chicago  has  not  spoken 
half  as  earnestly  as  she  feels.  Through  all  this  experience 
General  Grant  has  conducted  himself  in  such  a  way  as  to 
make  old  friends  still  more  devoted,  and  to  make  new  ones 
quite  as  enthusiastic  as  the  old  ones. 


484 


CHRONOLOGICAL, 


CHRONOLOGICAL. 


Around  the  world  condensed. 
The  following  chronological  stateinent  marks  the  leading  incidents 
of  General  Grant's  round  the  world  tour: 

MAY,  1877 

Departure  from  Philadelphia 17 

Arrival  at  Queen stown 27 

Arrival  at  Liverpool 28 

Arrival  at  Manchester ,.  30 

JUNE. 

Arrival  at  London i 

Banqueted  hy  Duke  of  Wellington  at  Apsley  House 2 

Reception  at  Minister  Pierrepont's 5 

Presented  with  the  freedom  of  tlie  City  of  London 15 

Dinner  with  the  Marquis  of  Lome  and  Princess  Louise 16 

Breakfast  with  London  literati 18 

Dined  with  the  Reform  Club 18 

Dinner  with  the  Prince  of  Wales 19 

Banqueted  bj   the  Trinity  House,  the  Prince  ot  Wales  pre- 

skiing 24 

Visitto  Queen  Victoria  at  Windsor  Castle 26-27 

Banqueted  by  Liverpool  citizens 28 

Dinner  with  London  Journalists 3° 

JULY. 

Address  by  deputation  of  British  workingmen 3 

Banqueted  by  the  United  Service  Club,  Duke  of  Cambridge 

presiding 3 

Reception  at  the  American  Legation. 4 

Departure  for  the  Continent 5 

Arrival  at  Brussels 6 

Dinner  with  the  King  of  Belgium 8 

Banqvieted  at  Frankfort -  12 

Laid  corner-stone  of  new  American  Protestant  Church  at  Ge- 
neva   — i 27 

AUG. 

Visit  to  Lake  Maggiore 5 

Visit  to  Copenhagen .  18 

Returned  to  England —  25 

Presented  with  the  freedom  of  Edinburg  and  banqueted 31 

SEPT. 

Presented  with  the  freedom  of  Glasgow  and  banqueted 13 

Monster  labor  demonstration  in  the  General's  honor  at  New- 

castle-on-Tvne 22 

Visitto  Sheffield 26 

Visited  Sliakspeare's  tomb. ...  28 


CHRONOI.OGICAL.  485 

OCT. 

Visit  to  Sartoris  familv  at  Southampton 2-11; 

Banqueted  at  Birmingham 16 

Departure  for   Paris 24 

Arrival  at  Paris 25 

Call  upon  President  MaclMahon 26 

Visited  by  the  Count  de  i^aris    and  the  Duchess  of  Magenta..  27 

Grand  Banquet  at  Minister  Nojes' 29 

NOV. 

Dined  by  President  MacMahon i 

Banqueted  bj  American  residents  in  Paris 6 

Feted  by  Mrs.  "Bonanza"  Mackay 2i 

DEC. 

Visit  to  Lyons,  France 2 

Visit  to  Marseilles 3 

Visit  to  Genoa 15 

Visit  to  Naples -. 17 

Meeting  with  Prince  Alfred,  the  Duke  of  Edinburg,  at  Malta..  28 

JAN.,  1878. 

Arrival  at  Alexandria,  Egypt 5 

Arrival  at  Cairo 7 

Visited  by  the  Khedive  of  Egypt 8 

Departure  for  trip  up  the  Nile 16 

FEB 

The  Holy  Land  reached  at  Jaffa 10 

Reception  at  Jerusalem 13 

MARCH. 

Arrival  at  Constantinople 3 

Banqueted  by  the  British  Minister  to  Turkey 4 

Banqueted  by  the  King  of  Greece 13 

APRIL. 

State  dinner  by  King  Humbert  of  Italy  at  Rome 15 

Florence  visited 20 

Venice   reached 23 

MAY. 

Arrival  at  Turin 5 

Visited  Paris  Exposition lO 

Visited  by  President  MacMahon  and  the  Duchess  of  Magen- 
ta, Prince  Hassan  of  Egypt,  Prince  Albert  and  Prince  Fred- 
eric of  Austria,  Prince  and  Princess  of  Denmark 14 

JUNE. 

Dined  by  Prince  Orloff,  Russian  Minister  to  Paris 3 

Dejeuner  at  the  Hague  with  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Frederick,  uncle 

of  King  of  Holland 6 

Dined  by  the  Burgomasters  of  Rotterdam 8 

Grand  banquet  at  Amsterdam -  12 


486 


CHRONOLOGICAL. 


Arrival  at  Berlin ..         26 

Interview  with   Prince  Bismarck .         27 

Special  audience  with  the  Crown-Prince  of  Germany 27 

JULY. 

Reception  by  King  Oscar  of  Norway  and   Sweden   at  Christi- 
ana  13 

Banquet  at  Stockholm 24 

Arrival  at  St.  Petersburg 30 

Visited  by  Prince  Gortschakoff. 31 

AUG. 

Audience  with  the  Czar 1 

Formal   interview  with  the  Czar 4 

Dinner  with  Prince  UogarofF  at  Moscow. 10 

Audience  with  the  Emperor  of  Austria 19 

Dinner  with  the  Austrian  Imperial  family 21 

Dined  by  the  citizens  of  Zurich,  Switzerland 23 

OCT. 

Dined  by  Minister  Noyes  at  Paris 3 

Interview  with  ex-President  Castelar  of  Spain  at  San  Sebas- 
tian  J - 9 

Interview  with  King  Alfonso -  13 

Arrival  at  Madrid 16 

KOV. 

Dinner   with  King  Louis  of  Portugal I 

Breakfast  with  the  Due  de  Montpensier  at  Madrid 9 

Dinner  with  Lord  Napier  of  Magdala,  at  Gibraltar 18 

TAN.,  1879. 

Arrival  at  Dublin,  Ireland,  and  presented  with  freedom  of  the 

city 3 

Feted  at  Londonderry. 6 

Reception  at  Belfast 9 

State  dinner  and  reception  by  President  MacMahon  at  Paris..  14 

Arrived  at  Marseilles. .  21 

Sailed  for  India 22 

FEB* 

Arrival  at  Bombay ^.. 13 

State  dinner  and  reception  by  the  acting  Governor  at  Bombay  17 

Visit  to  the  Maharajah  of  Jaypore 20 

Visit  to  the  Maharajah  of  Burtpoor _ 24 

Visit  to  Delhi. 26 

Arrival  at  Calcutta,  and  banquet  by  Lord  Lytton,  Viceroy  of 

India .-  2S 

MARCH. 

Visit  to  British  Burmah 23 

APi'  IL. 

Visit  to  Singapore.. .._.......--.._-..----. --.-•-.--- ....  I 


CHRONOLOGICAL. 


4S7 


Entertained  by  the  King  of  Siam.. 14 

Arrival  at  Saigon,  Cochin  China 25 

Arrival  at  Hong  Kong 30 

MAY. 

State  dinner  at  the  Government  House 3 

Arrival  at  Hong  Kong  and  entertained  by  the  Viceroy 6 

Reception  of  a  dejiutation  of  Chinese 7 

Arrival  at  Shanghai 19 

Interview  with  the  Viceroy,  Li-Hung  Chang,  at  Tientsin 24 

JUNE- 

Arrival  at  Pekin 3 

Inter\iew  w'ith  Prince  Kung,  Regent  of  China 5 

Arri\al  at  Nagasaki,  Japan 21 

State  dinner  by  Governor  of  the  Province 23 

Banqueted   by  Nagasaki  citizens 24 

JULY. 

Tokio  visited ...  3 

Grand  Reception  by  the  Emperor  of  Japan 4 

Banquet  by  the  Emperor  of  Japan 7 

Visit  to  Yokohama 9 

Visit  to  Shrine  of  lyeyasu .-  17 

AUG. 

Private  conversation  with  the  Emperor  of  Japan ic 

SEPT. 

Departure  from  Yokohama 3 

Arrival  at  San  Francisco 20 

NOV. 

Arrival  at  Galena 5 

Arrival  at  Chicago . .         I2 


Catalogue  of  Our  Publications. 

m 

^UBgCF(IPT10N  AND  fp^/DE  ^OOK^. 


General  U.  S.  Grant's  Tour  Around  the  World. 

Edited  by  L.   T.  Remlap,   [Palmer.) 

Contains  a  full  and  accurate  description  of  General  Grant's 
Tour;  the  receptions,  both  public  and  private,  tendered  him  ; 
addresses  of  welcome — his  responses;  his  conversations  with 
public  men,  and  a  full  description  of  entertainments,  gossip, 
etc.;  also  receptions  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  unprecedented 
series  of  receptions  at  Chicago,  November  12th  to  20th,  inclu- 
sive. Elegantly  illustrated.  One  large  quarto  volume,  500 
pages.  Fifteenth  thousand  ready  November  20,  1879.  The 
only  book  on  the  General's  Tour  printed  in  English  and 
German. 

Cloth,  Back  and  Side  in  Black  and  Gold $2  00 

"     Gilt  Edges,  Back  and  Side  in  Black  and  Gold 2  50 

Popular  edition.     Paper  cover 1  25 

Leaders  of  Our  Church  Universal,  ^™m  the  succes- 
sors of  the  Apostles  to  the  Generation  ju.st  departed.  A  "  Book 
of  Saints,"  from  the  Evangelical  stand  point.  Comprising 
EARLIER  leaders,  later  leaders  in  Europe,  America,  Asi.i,  Africa 
and  Oceanica,  by  Dr.  Ferdinind  Piper,  of  Germany;  and  Dr. 
Henry  JNIcCracken,  of  America.  The  reader  is  carried  along 
with  glowing  interest  through  the  five  succes.sive  periods. — 
"The  Church's  Spread  in  the  South,"  "in  the  North  ;"  "  The 
Church's  Centralization;"  "The  Church's  Fveformation,"  and 
"  The  Church's  Reformed  Progress." 

T)ie  names  of  the  European  writers  are  of  the  most  eminent: 
Tholuck,  Krummacher,  Neander,  Hagenbach,  Van  Oosterzee  (of 
Holland),  Lechler,  Lorimer  (England),  MacCrie  (Enghind), 
Monod  (Paris'),  with  more  than  a  score  of  others  hardly 
behind  these  in  eminence  and  world-wide  reputation. 

The   following   is  the   complete  roll   of    American    writers: 
Dr.  H.  C.  Alexander,  Dr.  Pvobert  Beard,  Dr.  C.  W.  Bennett,  Dr. 


W.  M.  Blackburn,  Dr.  S.  L.  Caldwell,  Dr.  Rufus  W.  CTark,  Mrs. 
Helen  Finney  Cox,  Dr.  Timothy  Dwight,  Dr.  J.  H.  Goode,  Dr. 
Lewis  Grout,  Dr.  Arch.  A.  Hodge,  Dr.  Samuel  Hopkins,  Dr.  Z. 
H.  Humphrey,  Dr.  J.  B.  Jeter,  Dr.  Herrick  Johnson,  Mrs. 
Helen  Kendrick,  Dr.  D.  R.  Kerr,  Dr.  Hemnn  Lincoln,  Dr. 
Henry  MacCracken,  Dr.  J.  M.  Pendleton,  D.  W.  K.  Pendleton, 
Prof.  B.  F.  Prince,  Bp.  W.  Bacon  Stevens,  Mrs.  Harriet  B. 
f  Stowe,  Dr.  Thomas  0.  Summers,  Bp.  J.  Weaver,  Dr.  A.  Webster, 

Dr.  Thomas  Webster,  S.  Wells  Williams,  LL.  D.,  Bp.  R.  Yeakel, 

"  representing  the  fourteen  denominations. 

•  Four  appendices  are  added.     Appendix  III.  is  a  "Table  of 

Statistics  of  our  Church  Universal  by  Denominations  and 
Countries."  Appendix  IV.  is  an  "Index  of  One  Thousand 
Biographical  illustrations  contained  in  the  Lives,  for  the  use 
of  the  Preacher  and  of  the  Teacher  in  the  Sabbath-school." 
This  will  prove  exceedingly  valuable. 

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The  True  Life;  or,  Highway  to  Fortune,  Happi- 
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The  design  of  this  work  is  a  harmonious  combination  of  sub- 
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tune, Happiness  and  Heaven  constitute  the  three  principle 
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author  of   "Crumbs  Swept  Up,"  "Around  the  Tea  Table,"  "Abomi- 
nations  of    Modern  Society,"   "Sports  that  Kill,"  etc.,  etc. 

One  large  Octavo  Volume,  of  526  pages,  elegantly  illustrated 
with  14  full-page  Engravings.  Contains  the  discourses  as  lately 
delivered  in  the  Brooklyn  Tabernacle — giving  Dr.  Talmage's 
experiences  and  observations  as  lately  seen  by  him,  in  com- 
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stenographic  reports  taken  verbatim  for  The  Cleveland  Leader, 
carefully  revised  and  corrected;  also,  the  lives  of  D wight  L. 
Moody  and  Ira  D.  Sankey,  with  their  portraits.  One  large 
volume  of  500  pages. 

Cloth,  Back  and  Side  in  Black  and  Gold 2  00 

Sheep,  Library  Style 2  50 

Abbott's  Illustrated  New  Testament,  with  ex- 
planatory notes.  By  John  S.  C.  and  Jacob  Abbott,  I).  D.,  LLD. 
Embracing  also  a  brief  Biography  of  Our  Savior,  the  Christ, 
Biographies  of  the  Writers,  as  well  as  of  the  Prominent  Men 
and  Women  of  the  New  Testament ;  An  Analysis  of  the  Gospels, 
showing  their  Mutual  Relations  ;  A  History  of  the  English 
Translation  of  the  Bible ;  A  Complete  Harmony  of  the  Gospels, 
Illustrative  Tables  Relating  Chiefly  to  the  New  Testament,  viz.: 
The  Miracles  of  Christ,  Parables  of  Jesus,  The  Discourses  of 
Jesus,  etc  ,  etc.,  with  Fifty  full-page  Maps  and  Engravings, 
Twelve  of  which  Illustrate  the  Parables.  One  Crown  Octavo 
volume  of  650  pages. 

Cloth,  imitation  Morocco 2  00 

American  Morocco,  Marble  Edges 2  50 

The  Home  Guide,   An  Encyclopzedla  of  All  Things   of  Every 
Day  Life. 

As  an  Encyclopedia  of  domestic  science,  we  know  of  no  book 

that  approximates  to  it  in    the  fullness  of  its  information, 

Chicago  Post. 

Its  practical,  economical  and  hygenic  features  will  be  recog- 


'  nized  by  every  one  who  examines  its   pages. — N.    W.  Lumber' 

man,  Chicago, 

No  home  can  afiFord  to  be  without  this  book. — New  Covenant, 
Chicago. 

For  a  generation  to  come  it  will  be  ranked  with  the  few  books 
which  are  a  blessing  to  the  home. — Journal,  Chicago. 

Especial  value  to  those  upon  whom  devolve  the  responsibili- 
ties of  household  management. — Tribune,  Chicago. 
Elegantly  Illustrated.     622  Octavo  pages,  68  illustrations. 

Price 2  00 

Cloth,  gilt 2  50 

One  Fold  and  One  Shepherd.— ^  °ew  book  on  Visible 

Church  Unity.     By  Rev.  John  Scotford. 

Author  of  "The  Judd  Family,"  or ''An  Evening  Visit  and  what 
came  of  it."  With  an  introduction  by  Rev.  W.  C.  McCune.  Elegant- 
ly Illustrated.  The  object  of  this  book  is  to  show  that  this  unity 
can  be  secured  without  the  surrender  of  any  truth  vital  to 
Christian  character,  or  any  view  of  duty  that  individual  Chris- 
tians may  cherish.  It  therefore  oifers  a  basis  upon  which  all 
the  disciples  of  Christ  can  unite.  In  doing  so  it  discusses  the 
various  hindrances  to  union  and  removes  them  out  of  the  way. 
One  volume,  8  illustrations,   420  pages,  price,  cloth , 1  60 

Times  of  Refreshing.— ^  History  of  American  Revivals. 

Containing  a  full  description  of  the  Great  Revivals  of  the  past 
One  Hundred  and  Forty  Years — Personal  Sketches  of  Eminent 
Revivalists— Narratives  and  incidents  connected  with  their  work, 
with  a  thorough  discussion  of  their  Philosophy  and  criticism 
of  Methods.  Illustrated  with  fine  life-like  Portraits  of  Messrs. 
Whitefield,  Nettleton,  Baker,  Finney,  Moody,  Sankey,  Maj. 
Whittle,  P.  P.  Bliss,  Hammond,  Francis  Murphy,  Pentecost 
and  Miss  Frances  E.Willard.  By  Charles  L.  Thompson,  D.  D., 
late  Editor  of  the  Interior,  Chicago,  now  of  Pittsburg.  480 
pages,  12  illustrations. 

Price 2  00 

aoth,  gilt 2  60 

light    Sides    of    City    Life.      T.  Demtt  Talmage. 

Large  12mo.     160  pages.     Paper 60 

Glowing  with  impassioned  fervor,  he  wages  deadly  war  against 
the  vices  of  the  day  in  their  most  enticing  form. — N.  Y. 
Tribune. 

Traps  for   Men.      T.  DeWiU  Talmage. 

12mo.     180  pages 60 

Nothing  but  the  breaking  down  of  the  press  can  prevent  his 
discourses  having  an  immense  sale. — Reading  (Pa.)  Times. 

Foes    of     Society.     ^-  DeWHt  Talmage. 

12mo.     170  pages.     Illustrated 60 

He  does  not  know  how  to  soften  a  denunciation,  or  kid-glove  a 
lie,  cheat,  or  a  sham. — Providence  (R.  I.)  Press. 


Hand   Book  of  Bible  Readings,— Edited  by  h.  b. 

Chamberlin,  with  an  introduction  by  D.  W.  Whittle  on  Bible 
Readings,  how  to  prepare  and  how  to  use  them ;  a  chapter  by 
Joseph  Cook  on  ''Bible  Reading  and  Bible  Markin;g"  and  500 
Bible  Readings  and  Studies  by  D.  L.  Moody,  Henry  Moorhouse, 
D.  W.  Whittle,  George  Muller,  Rev.  W.  S.  Rainsford,  B.  A.; 
Rev.  J.  H.  Vincent,  D.  D.;  Rev.  W.  F.  Crafts,  B.  F.  Jacobs, 
Rev.  George  F.  Pentecost,  Rev.  H.  M.  Parsons,  Rev.  J.  II. 
Brooks,  D.  D.;  Rev.  George  A.  Hall,  R.  H.  McBurney,  L.  W. 
Munhall,  J.  W  Dean,  George  C.  Needham,  Rev.  C.  M.  Whittlesey, 
Rev.  John  Gordon,  Rev.  T.  B.  Stevenson,  and  many  others. 

176  pages,  16mo.  paper  covers 50. 

Ooth 76 

The  Bible  and  Sunday-School.— Edited  by  Rev.  w.  f. 

Crafts.  It  contiiins  Outline  Lectures,  "  Bible  Readings,"  and 
Addresses  by  Lyman  Abbott,  D.  D.;  Rev.  Henry  Ward  Beecher, 
Richard  Newton,  D.  D.;  Rev.  W.  F.  Crafts,  Mrs.  W.  F.  Crafts, 
C.  H.  Payne,  D.  D.;  H.  W.  Warren,  D.  D.;  P.  P.  Bliss,  Miss 
Jennie  B.  Merrill,  Rev.  J.  L.  Hurlbut,  Rev.  H.  M.  Parsons, 
Miss  Frances  E.  Willard,  Miss  M.  E.  Winslow,  M.  C.  Hazard, 
Esq.;  A.  0.  Van  Lennep,  Charles  M.  Morton,  D.  L.  Moody, 
Ralph  Wells,  E.  0.  Haven,  D.  D.;  J.  H.  Vincent,  D.  D.;  and 
others. 

These  Outline  Lectures  are  arranged  in  a  form  suitable  for  a 
Regular  Course  of  Normal  Class  Study,  or  for  personal  study. 
The  divisions  are  as  follows: 
1— THE  BIBLE.  THE  WORD  OF  GOD. 

2— THE  BIBLE  AND  ITS  STUDENTS. 

3-THH  BIBLE  AND  ITS  TEACHINGS. 
4-THH  B!BLB  ANIv  CaiLDHOOD. 
5-TlIE  BIBLE  AND  APPLIANCES. 

6— THE  BIBLE  AND  THE  WORLD. 

171  pages,  16mo.  paper  cover 50 

Cloth , 75 

The  Coming  Man  is  the  Present   Child;    or, 
Childhood  the  Text-Book  of  the  Age. 

By  Rev.   W.  F.  Crafts. 

The  following  points  about  the  book  make  it  specially  attractive: 

1.  It  has  a  Score  of  Beautiful  JEn^7-avings  of  ch'MVifo,  most 
of  them  cojiied  from  famous  sculpture  and  paintings  in  great 
galleries  of  Europe,  collected  especially  for  this  book.  These 
pictures  will  greatly  interest  Barents,  Artists,  and  Teachers. 

2.  The  book  has  short,  characteristic  events  from  the  child^ 
hood  of  fifty  great  inen,  with  pictures  accompanying,  which  will 
also  attract  the  interest  not  only  of  Barents  and  Teachers,  but 
also  of  the  Boi/s  themselves. 

3.  The  book  has  numerous  incidents  of  child  life,  short,  bright, 
amusing  things.  This  feature  will  greatly  interest  all  educator*^ 
while  it  anunes  the    general  reader.     A  '*  Childliood*^ 

ary,"  coniaiiiing  IdO  cute  definitions  from 
is  a  noini    of  iiiipn^si    in    t  lift  honk. 


4.     The  theoretical  portion  of  the  book  (12  chapters)  discuss 
the  relations  of  Childhood  to  the  age,  to  science,  to  temperance,  to 
education,  to  religion,  etc.,  each   chapter   commending  itself  to 
pastors,  parents,  teachers,  and  all  lovers  of  childhood. 
Paper  covers,   156   pages,    16  Illustrations,  price.  60 

Instincts  and  Incidents  of  Childhood. 

13y  Rev.  W.  F.   Crafts. 

This  little  volume  gives  in  a  scientific  "Cabinet  "  four  hundred 
"specimens"  of  the  sayings  and  doings  of  children,  arranged  as 
if  upon  "Shelves"  and  in  "Cases"  under  the  seven  instincts  of 
childhood  as  discovered  by  Froebel,  and  made  familiar  through 
the  Kindergarten  System.  The  incidents  will  be  found  not  only 
instructive  to  students  of  human  nature,  but  highly  amusing 
and  interesting  to  all  classes  of  readers. 
115  pages,  5  Illustrations.     Paper  covers 40 

Lessons  for  Little  Folks.  For  Home  and  Sunday-School. 
Including  Songs  and  Recitations,  also  Thoughts  for  Older  Folks. 
By  Mrs.  V.  J.  Kent. 

This  book  contains  Ettractive  material  for  use  in  Primary 
Classes,  and  is  suitable  as   a   help  for  Teachers,  and  also  as  a 

gift    for  children.     174  pages.     Paper 50 

Cloth 75 

Nail  Heads,  or  Helps  for  Primary  Teachers. 

By  Mrs.    George  Partridge,  with   an  introduction    by    J.    Bennet 
Tyler. 

Commendation  from  a  S.  S.  worher.  "Let  me  speak  a  word  to 
the  Primary  Teachers  about  that  excellent  book,  'Nail  Heads,' 
by  Mrs.  George  Partridge.  It  is  a  little  book,  not  expensive, 
and  contains,  in  my  opinion,  the  best  help,  outside  of  the 
Bible,  that  a  primary  teacher  can  find.  I  have  used  it  in  my 
class  with  great  satisfaction.  The  books  are  so  few  that  really 
aid  in  the  work,  that  I  hasten  to  give  my  testimony  in  regard 
to  this,  and  hope  that  you  will  each  secure  a  copy.  One  needs 
only  to  examine  it  to  see  that  it  was  prepared  by  a  worker, 
and  contains  only  that  will  help.  Its  simplicity  and  direct- 
ness are  very  marked.  Mrs.  G.   R.  Alden  ('Pansy'), 

"New  Hartford,  N.  T." 

Cloth,    limp 35 

Handsomely  bound,  tinted  paper 60 

From  Earth  to  Heaven.    By  .4.  p.  Graves,  d.  d. 

Mr.  Graves  has  made  this  book  to  enlarge  his  Evangelistic  use- 
fulness. It  contains  a  sketch  of  his  life,  a  fine  steel-plate  en- 
graving of  himself,  many  of  his  most  valuable  revival  sermons 
and  Bible  Readings,  and  several  important  reform  papers.  In 
its  size,  nearly  350  pages,  it  is  worth  $1  50,  but  to  put  it  in 
the  reach  of  all  the  people,  the  price  is  put  down  to 1  00 


Down   Grade.     -A-    book   to    save   tempted  young  men.     A.   P. 
Graves,  D.  D.     5th  thousand  now  ready. 

Cloth 60 

Twenty-five  Letters  to  a  Young  Lady.    Just  P"^ 

lished.     A.   P.    Graies,  D.  D. 

Cloth 60 

Sermons    for   Boys  and   Girls,     ^f^'-  J-  G-  iferriiL 

(^Just  published.) 

160  pages.     Qoth >         75 

Hints  on    Bible    Marking.     By  Mrs.  Stephen   Hemes,  with 
preface  by  D.  L.  Moody. 

32  pages,  sq.     18mo.     Paper 15 

Paper,  per  dozen 1  25 

How  to  Study    the    Bible.     By  D.L.Moody. 

A  valuable   little  work,  which  should   be   carefully  read  and 
studied  by  all  who  desire  to  enjoy  the  study  of  the  Word. 

Paper  cover 15 

"         "     per  dozen 1  25 

A  Dictionary  of  Scripture  Proper  Names,    with 

their  pronunciation  and  explanation. 

Cloth 25 

FrOggy'S   Little   Brother.   By  Brenda. 

A  Temperance    Tale    tor    Children,    handsomely    Illustrated, 

294  pages 1  25 

The  Little  Captain. — ^  Temperance  Tale. — By  Lynde  Palmer. 

Illustrated,  131  pages 60 

25  Sermons  to  Children.— By  Rev.  j.  g.  Merrill. 

70  pages,  paper  cover ,         25 

Our  Christmas  Gift.— By  i/^rs.  r.  J.  Kent. 

Handsomely   printed   in   Blue    and   Red,  tied   together  with 

Blue  Ribbons 26 


TME  MTYL@&mAPmm  PEW. 
A  Neat,  Clean,  Air-tight,  Fountain  Pen, 

Can  be  carried  in  the  Pocket  with  perfect  safety.     Holds 
sufficient  ink  lor  Twent3'-lour  Hours  Continuous 

Writing. 

^.  T.  C  ross'  Patents, 

October  6,  1868;  April  10,  1S77;  May  i,  1877;  June  12,  1877; 
January,  20,  1S78. 

The  Pen  is  very  simple  in  its  construction,  and  is  easily  under- 
stood and  managed,  and  if  thoroughly  understood  requires  but  little 
attention  or  care.  Never  allow  any  one  to  meddle  with  your  Pen 
who  does  not  understand  it. 

N.  B. — Should  the  needle  become  brnt  by  accident  so  as  to  prevent  its 
working  freely,  it  can  be  straightened  by  rolling  it  between  two  flat  smooth 
surfaces  with  slight  pressure.  If  you  fail  to  put  it  in  order,  return  the  Pen 
to  the  address  below.  If  you  should  break  the  filler,  ask  your  druggist  for 
a  medicine  dropper.  If  any  part  of  your  pen  is  lost  or  injured  at  any  time, 
send  it  to  us  by  registered  parcel,  in  a  small  paste-board  box,  with  your  name 
and  address  plainly  written  across  one  end  ot  the  wrapper,  enclosing  twelve 
cents  to  pay  return  postage  and  registration  fees,  and  we  will  return  it  in 
good  order  at  as  slight  cost  as  possible. 

:e=:kice  list. 

The  numbers  indicate  the  Style  of  the  Stylographic  Pen  as  follows : 

Net. 

No.  I,  Gold  Mounted,  6  inches  long-,  Solid  Iridium  (  Diamond  )  Point $5  00 

N0.2,     •<             "         41^  "  "            "  "  450 

No.  3,  Chased,               6  "  "            "  "  450 

N0.4,        "                     ^%  "  "            "  "  400 

No.  5,  Gold  Mounted,  6  "  Iridium  Alloy,  "  400 

No.  6,     "              "          4'/^  "  "            "  "  350 

No.  7,  Chased,                6  "  "            "  "  350 

N0.8,        "                     4J^  "  •'            "  "  300 

N.  B. — Positively  the  Gold  used  in  mounting  the  Stylographic  Pens  is  18 
carats  fine.  Pure  native  Iridium  is  absolutely  indestructible,  and  each  solid 
Iridium  (  Diamond )  point,  is  hereby  warranted  for  the  term  of  three  years. 

J.  FAIRBANKS  &  CO. 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 

G440 

.G7 

R4 

1879 


I 


